Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2015 


https://archive.org/details/inheartofsierras00hutc_0 


Photo-typo  by  Britton  rey,  S.  F. 


■In  the  Heart  of  the  Sierras.’ 


IN  THE 


THE 


Yo  ©ELMITTEI  Y^A 

BOTH  HISTORICAL  AND  DESCRIPTIVE: 

And  Scenes  by  the  Way. 

Big  Tree  Groves. 

The  High  Sierra,  with  its  Magnificent  Scenery,  Ancient  and 
Modern  Glaciers,  and  Other  Objects  oE  Interest; 

WITH 

TABLES  OF  DISTANCES  AND  ALTITUDES,  MATS,  ETS.. 

PRO  FUSEL  Y ILL  USTRA  TED . 


ByJ.  MI.  Hutchings, 

OF  YO  SEMITE. 


Published  at  the  Old  Cabin,  Yo  Semite  Valley, 

AND  AT 

Pacific  Press  Publishing  House,  Oakland,  Cal. 

1888. 


Entered  According  to  Act  of  6oi?gress,  in  the  Year  1886,  Ij 

J.  Nl . Hutchings, 

1 12  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 

ALL  FLIGHTS  I^BSEI^YED. 


?KG\t\C  ?\}BUSH\NG  WOUSt, 

PftWU  GRS  , tVGCl  ftOT<  PGRS  , 

ON*\_M\G  KUQ  SNH  Ppnhcvscq,  Cnv. 
e 9 


DISCOVERER  OF  YOSEMITE  DEAD . 


J.  M.  Hutchings,  Who  Found  the  Famous 
Valley,  Killed  There  by  Accident. 

San  Francisco,  Nov.^d^J.  M.  Hutch- 
ings, who  discovered  the  Yosemite  Valley 
and  opened  it  for  tourists,  was  killed  on 
Friday  night  by  his  team  going  over  the 
grade  on  his  way  into  the  famous  valley. 

Mr.  Hutchings  was  nearly  90  years  old, 
and  until  recently  spent  every  winter  in 
the  Yosemite.  He  had  kept  this  season 
the  Calaveras  Big  Trees  Hotel.  I.loi 


Dedication.  @ 


To  the  many  pleasant  friends  I have  met,  and 
others  whom  I hope  to  meet  at  Yo  Semite, 
in  the  Heart  of  the  Sierras,  this  vol- 
ume is  most  gratefully  and 
feelingly  dedicated,  by 
THE  AUTHOR. 


/ 

^ 


Jyzr^~  S^7^J62-. 


©I^EFAGE. 

:o: 

The  inquiries  made  by  appreciative  and  intelligent  visitors  to  the 
Yo  Semite  Valley,  have  suggestively  prompted  the  themes  that  should  be 
descanted  upon  in  this  volume.  The  information  desired  I have  endeav- 
ored to  embody  and  present.  In  this  labor  of  love  my  long  residence,  and 
many  attendant  circumstances,  have  been  supplemented  by  valuable  his- 
toric and  scientific  details,  obtained  from  various  sources.  For  early  rec- 
ords of  the  Valley  I am  mainly  indebted  to  Dr.  L.  H.  Bunnell,  who  was 
not  only  one  of  its  first  visitors,  and  discoverers,  but  its  earliest  and  princi- 
pal historian;*  and  through  the  kindness  of  Hon.  W.  J.  Howard,  of  Mari- 
posa, and  Major  James  Burney,  of  Modesto,  California,  and  others, -I  have 
been  able  to  supply  the  missing  links  needed  for  the  completion  of  the  his- 
torical chain  of  events,  so  much  desired,  and  so  unavailingly  sought  after, 
by  Dr.  Bunnell,  concerning  some  of  the  Valley’s  earlier  history'.! 

The  designs  for  the  embossed  covers,  in  black  and  gold,  are  by  Mr. 
Thomas  Hill,  the  eminent  and  well-known  California  artist;  who  has  also 
generously  furnished  other  sketches  for  this  work.  To  Mr.  George  Fiske, 
the  resident  photographic  artist  of  Yo  Semite,  Mr.  S.  C.  Walker,  Taber, 
and  other  photographers,  I desire  to  acknowledge  my  obligation  for  many 
of  the  representative  subjects  here  presented.  And  to  those  who  by  their 
financial  aid  have  made  the  publication  of  this  work  possible,  I gratefully 
tender  my  sincere  thanks. 

Nor  would  I forget  the  faithful  Indian  “Tom,”  who,  no  matter  how 
biting  cold  the  weather,  or  deep  the  snow  in  winter,  not  only  brought  us 
our  letters  and  papers,  but  supplied  us  with  much  interesting  data  of  his 
race  in  connection  with  the  Valley  and  its  primitive  inhabitants,  and  I 
thank  him. 

*See  “Discovery  of  the  Yo  Semite, ”an  invaluable  and  deeply  interesting  narra- 
tive of  personal  observation  and  adventure. 

tlbid,  page  30. 


11 


PREFACE ; 


By  the  courteous  permission  of  the  Chief  of  Engineers  of  the  U.  S.  A., 
Washington,  D.  C.,  I am  enabled  to  publish  their  official  map  of  the  Val- 
ley and  its  surroundings. 

To  the  Pacific  Press  Publishing  House,  Oakland,  California,  I desire 
to  acknowledge  my  many  obligations  for  the  uniform  and  untiring  urbanity 
and  kindly  services  of  every  officer  and  employe.  The  workmanship  of 
its  multifarious  departments  will  speak  for  itself  in  this  volume. 

It  will  readily  be  seen  that  in  addition  to  the  many  finely  executed 
wood  engravings  that  were  expressly  prepared  for  this  book,  I have  pressed 
into  service  the  new  and  beautiful  process  of  photo-lithography  for  its 
more  complete  embellishment. 

For  the  convenience  of  those  who  may  be  desirous  of  making  hurried 
consultations  of  portions  of  this  work,  sub-headings  will  be  found  running 
through  its  various  chapters. 

Having  done  the  very  best  that  I could,  I now  leave  the  success  of 
my  endeavor  in  the  hands  of  my  friends  and  the  public. 

J.  M.  H. 


©ABLE  OP  (©ONTENTS. 


:o: 

CHAPTER  I.  Is  an  Epitome  of  the  Voiced  Impressions  of  Eminent  Personages 
concerning  Yo  Semite 13 

CHAPTER  II.  Causes  Leading  to  the  Discovery  oe  Yo  Semite.  The  Un- 
paralleled Influx  of  Gold  Miners;  Jealousy  of  the  Indians;  Breaking  Out  of 
Hostilities;  Official  Testimony  of  Their  Cruelties  and  Murders;  Mustering  in 
of  the  First  Company  of  Volunteers;  Initiative  Conflict  with  the  Foe. . .22 

CHAPTER  III.  How  and  When  Discovered.  Formation  and  Organization  of 
the  Mariposa  Battalion;  Its  Line  of  March;  Placed  in  Charge  of  the  U.  S. 
Indian  Commissioners;  Arrival  of  the  U.  S.  Indian  Commissioners  at  the 
Scene  of  Hostilities;  Peace  Messengers  Sent  to  the  Indian  Villages;  Numbers 
of  the  Different  Tribes;  A Portion  of  the  Hostiles  Accept  the  Proffered 
Terms;  First  Intimation  of  the  Existence  of  Such  a Place  as  the  Yo  Semite 
Valley;  Capture  of  an  Indian  Village;  Interview  of  the  Old  Indian  Chief, 
Ten-ie-ya,  with  the  Officer  in  Command;  The  Yo  Semites  Defiant;  An  Ex- 
pedition Resolved  Upon  against  Them;  Yo  Semites  Met  upon  the  Way; 
The  Yo  Semite  Valley  First  Seen  by  White  Men 41 

CHAPTER  IV  The  Name,  “Yo  Semite,’  Its  Origin  and  Meaning;  Legendary 
Tradition  Concerning  It;  Why  Spelled  Yo  Semite,  instead  of  Yosemite.  .58 

CHAPTER  V.  Close  of  the  Indian  Campaign.  Flight  of  the  Yo  Semite  In- 
dians; Captives  Taken;  Start  for  the  Reservation,  but  all  Escape  in  a 
Single  Night;  New  Campaign  Resolved  upon;  Three  of  Ten-ie-ya’s  Sons 
Captured;  The  Indians  Lure  Their  Pursuers  into  a Trap;  Escape  of  a Pris- 
oner; Ten-ie-ya’s  Youngest  Son  Shot  Dead;  Capture  of  Ten-ie-ya,  His  At- 
tempted Escape,  and  Speech;  Surprise  of  an  Indian  Village  at  Lake  Ten- 
ie-ya;  Naming  of  the  Lake;  March  fpr  Y~o  Semite;  End  of  the  Mariposa 
Indian  War 62 

CHAPTER  VI.  Early  Historical  Incidents.  Indians  Leave  the  Reservation; 
Prospecting  Miners  Murdered  in  Yo  Semite;  the  U.  S.  Expedition  against 
the  Indians  Returns  without  Capturing  or  Killing  an  Indian;  Approximate 
Extermination  of  the  Yo  Semite  Tribe  by  the  Monos;  Death  of  Ten-ie-ya, 
The  Last  Chief  of  the  Yo  Semites;  End  of  Major  Savage 74 


(iii) 


IV 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  VII.  The  First  Tourist  Visitors  to  Yo  Semite;  Difficulties  to  be 
Surmounted;  Old-time  Mining  Scenes;  IndianGuides  SecuredforYo  Semite; 
Origin  of  the  Nomenclature  “Bridal  Veil  Fall;”  Discovery  of  Vernal  and 
Nevada  Falls;  The  First  View  Ever  Published  of  Yo  Semite 79 

CHAPTER  VIII.  Early  Development  and  Progress  at  Yo  Semite.  Con- 
struction of  Trails;  Pioneer  Hotel  Building,  and  Hotel  Keepers;  The  Old 
Hutchings  House;  The  Pioneer  Photographer  of  Yo  Semite. 98 

CHAPTER  IX.  Its  First  Winter  Visitor.  Rumors  of  Snow-drifts  Half 
Filling  It;  Exploratory  Excursion  There;  Storm  Bound;  Voyage  Down  the 
Flooded  Merced  River;  Two  Shipwrecks;  Hotel  on  a Cruise;  Unsuccessful 
Return;  Second  Attempt  to  Visit  It;  A Perilous  Journey  of  Eleven  Days 
Alone;  Six  Days  Wallowing  through  Snow;  A Look  into  Paradise;  Antics 
of  a Grizzly  Bear;  Successful  Termination  of  the  Journey 103 

CHAPTER  X.  Early  Day  Reviewals.  Primitive  Method  of  Transporting 
Supplies;  Mysteries  of  Packing;  Intelligence  of  Mules;  Enormous  Weights 
Packed;  A Procession  of  Oddities;  Pack  Train  Snowed  In;  Human  Help 
and  Branrly  Carry  Timely  Aid;  Pioneer  Methods  of  Obtaining  Lumber; 
Annual  Number  of  Tourist  Visitors;  Influential  Helpers  in  the  Cause; 
Need  of  India-rubber  Adaptability  in  Accommodations;  Progressive  Im- 
provements Carried  On 118 

CHAPTER  XI.  Cabin  Homes  at  Yo  Semite.  Lamon’s  Cabin;  Biographical 
Outline  of  James  C.  Lamon;  His  Lonely  Residence  There  for  Two  Winters; 
His  Supposed  Murder;  The  Hutchings  Cabin;  Winter  Employments  and 
Experiences;  Pleasant  Occupation  the  Secret  of  Human  Happiness;  The 
Orchard  and  Strawberry  Patch;  Entrance  of  the  Angel  of  Sorrow;  In 
Memoriam.  134 

CHAPTER  XII.  Congressional  and  State  Enactments  Concerning  Yo  Sem- 
ite. Act  of  Congress  Granting  Yo  Semite  Valley  to  the  State;  Governor’s 
Proclamation  Appointing  Its  Initial  Board  of  Commissioners;  Official  Ac- 
ceptance of  the  Grant;  Adverse  Action  Towards  the  Settlers;  State  Action 
in  Their  Behalf;  An  Incidental  Digression;  The  Settler’s  Case  before  Con- 
gress; Reprehensible  Representation  in  the  U.  S.  Senate;  Mistaken  ‘'Public 
Policy;”  Adverse  Rulings  of  the  Supreme  Court;  Magnanimity  of  the  State 
Towards  the  Settlers 149 

CHAPTER  XIII.  Journey  and  Routes  to  Yo  Semite  in  Outline.  The  Seven 
Routes  to  the  Valley  and  Big  Trees;  About  Personal  Baggage;  A Word  to 
Parties  Camping;  Camping  Outfit  in  Detail;  Tents  and  Their  Arrange- 
ments   1 G3 


CONTENTS. 


Y 


CHAPTER  XIV.  The  Main  or  Trunk  Route  towards  Yo  Semite— San 
Francisco  to  Lathrop.  Excitements  at  the  Wharf;  Crossing  the  Bay; 
Alcatraces  (Alcatraz)  Island;  Angel  Island;  Mt.  Tamalpais;  Goat  Island; 
Oakland  Pier,  and  Its  Elegant  Waiting  Room;  Way-Stations;  Wild  Oats; 
The  C.  P.  R.  R.  Monster  Transfer  Boat  Solano;  Straits  of  Carquinez; 
Martinez;  Popular  Amusements  of  Native  Californians;  Monte  del  Diablo; 
Lathrop,  and  Its  Diverging  Railroads.  172 

CHAPTER  XV.  Bay  and  River  Routes  to  Yo  Semite.  Scenes  at  the  Wharf; 
The  Golden  Gate;  Fort  Point;  Islands,  En  Route;  Bays  of  San  Pablo  and 
Suisun;  Salmon  Fishing  on  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  Rivers;  Mos- 
quitoes; Tules  on  Fire;  Productiveness  of  Tule  Lands;  Arrival  at  the  Stock- 
ton  Wharf 191 

CHAPTER  XVI.  The  Milton  and  Calaveras  Big  Tree  Route.  Table  of 
Distances;  The  City  of  Stockton;  Heavy  Freight  Enterprises;  Deepest 
Artesian  Well  in  the  State;  The  Various  Strata  Passed  through  When 
Boring  It;  Railroad  Ride  to  Milton;  The  Stage  and  Its  Drivers;  Kind  of 
Country  Passed  Over;  The  Mining  V illage  of  Murphy’s;  How  and  When 
the  Big  Trees  Were  First  Discovered;  Road  to  the  Calaveras  Grove;  Its 
Commodious  Hotel;  The  Original  Big  Tree  and  Its  Stump;  Walk  through 
the  Grove;  The  South  Grove,  and  Its  Trees;  Ride  Down  to  Murphy’s; 
The  Newly  Discovered  Cave  There;  Calaveras  County  Caves,  and  Natural 
Bridges;  Drive  through  the  Mining  District;  Sonora  and  Its  People;  Chinese 
Camp 207 

CHAPTER  XVII.  The  Big  Trees  in  General.  Their  Classification  and 
Naming;  Why  Named  Sequoia;  Their  Distribution,  Probable  Age,  and 
Rapid  Growth;  Durability  of  the  Timber;  Fossilized  Big  Trees  Found.  .241 

CHAPTER  XVIII.  The  Berenda  Route.  Railroad  Ride  to  Berenda,  thence 
to  Raymond;  Table  of  Distances;  The  Horned  Toad  and  Its  Habits;  The 
Gambetta  Gold  Mines;  Grant’s  Sulphur  Springs;  Wawona,  with  Its  Hotel 
and  Proprietors;  Hill’s  Art  Studio;  Drive  to  and  through  the  Mariposa 
Big  Tree  Grove;  Remarkable  Size  and  Characteristics  of  Its  Trees;  Wawona 
Point;  The  Fresno  Grove;  A Bear  Hunt;  The  Chil-noo-al-na  Falls,  and  Mrs. 
Cook’s  Poem;  Signal  Peak;  Sublime  View  of  the  Sierras  Therefrom;  Other 
Points  of  Interest  at  Wawona;  Scenes  on  the  Way  to  Yo  Semite;  The 
Glorious  View  from  Inspiration  Point 243 

CHAPTER  XIX.  The  Madera  Route  to  Yo  Semite.  Its  Historic  Indian 
Associations;  Table  of  Distances;  The  Town  of  Madera;  The  V Lumber 
Flume;  Lassoing  and  Branding  of  Cattle;  Coarse  Gold  Gulch;  Town  of 
Fresno  Flats;  Forest  Scenes 272 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XX.  The  Coulterville  Route.  Towns  of  Modesto  and  Merced; 
Table  of  Distances;  Rolling  Country ; Fossils;  The  Road  Runner;  Tarant- 
ulas, and  Their  Enemy;  The  Stupendous  Gold-bearing  Mother  Vein; 
Coulterville;  Dudley’s  Ranch;  Bower  Cave;  Construction  of  the  Coulter- 
ville and  Yo  Semite  Turnpike;  Scenery  on  the  Road;  Pilot  Peak;  The 
Merced  Grove  of  Big  Trees;  View  from  Buena  Vista  Gap;  The  Great  Canon 
of  the  Merced  River 279 

CHAPTER  XXI.  The  Mariposa  Route.  Mariposans  the  First  Whites  to 
Enter  Yo  Semite;  Table  of  Distances;  Mining  Scenes  by  the  Way;  Various 
Methods  of  Mining  for  Gold;  California  Quail;  A Boy  That  “ Didn’t  Know 
Nuffink;”  The  Red-headed  Woodpecker;  Mr.  Horace  Greeley’s  Descrip- 
tion of  a California  Forest;  His  Terrible  Ride  to  Yo  Semite 292 

CHAPTER  XXII.  The  Milton  and  Big  Oak  Flat  Route  to  Yo  Semite. 
Table  of  Distances;  Milton;  The  Reservoir  House;  Copperopolis;  Table 
Mountain;  Goodwin’s;  Chinese  Camp;  Moffitt’s  Bridge;  Priest’s  Hotel; 
Big  Oak  Flat;  Hamilton’s;  Crocker’s;  Tuolumne  Grove  of  Big  Trees;  Crane 
Flat;  Foretaste  of  Grand  Scenes;  Crossing  the  Snow  Belt  in  Spring;  Horses 
on  Snow-shoes;  Look  into  the  Merced  Canon;  Magnificent  View  of  Yo 
Semite  Valley  from  the  Big  Oak  Flat  Road 311 

CHAPTER  XXIII.  Scenes  to  Be  Witnessed  from  the  Floor  of  the  Valley. 
The  Ride  up  It;  What  the  Yo  Semite  Valley  Is;  Theories  about  Its 
Formation;  The  Fissures;  Eroding  Action  of  Glaciers  over  a Mile  in 
Thickness;  Uncertain  Time  of  the  Glacial  Period;  Natural  Phenomena; 
Trails  Built  to  Grand  Scenic  Standpoints;  The  Three  Hotels  and  Their 
Landlords;  Sinning’s  Cabinet  Shop;  Art  Studios;  Photo  Establishments; 
Store;  Mrs.  Glynn’s;  Livery  Stables;  Guides;  Public  School;  The  Yo 
Semite  Chapel;  The  Guardian;  Forest  Trees,  Shrubs,  Flowers,  and  Ferns 
of  Yo  Semite;  Trout  Fishing:  Basis  of  Measurements;  Tables  of  Distances; 
Legend  of  the  Lost  Arrow;  Yo  Semite  Falls;  Mirror  Lake;  Legend  of 
Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah;  Old  Moraines;  The  New  Hotel;  Doings  of  a “ Cy- 
clone;’’ Rocky  Point;  The  Three  Brothers;  El  Capitan;  The  Ribbon  Fall; 
Enchantment  Point;  Picturesque  Road  to  Cascade  Falls;  The  Pohono 
Bridge  and  Avenue;  Bridal  Veil  Fall;  Indian  Dread  of  “Pohono;”  Curious 
Phenomena;  The  Cathedral  Spires;  Profile,  or  Fissure  Mountain;  The 


Sentinel 336 

CHAPTER  XXIV.  Manners  and  Customs  of  the  Indians.  Indian  Tom, 


His  Life  Being  Saved  Induces  Him  to  Tell  All  That  He  Knows  about 
His  Race;  The  Indian  Camp;  Present  Number  of  Indians;  Acorns  Their 
Staple  Breadstuff;  How  Prepared  for  Food;  Other  Edible  Luxuries;  Fan- 
dangos; Religious  Beliefs;  Burning  of  Their  Dead 416 


CONTEXTS. 


vii 


CHAPTER  XXV.  To  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls.  The  Anderson  Trail;  Reg- 
ister Rock;  Sublime  View  from  the  New  Bridge;  The  Vernal  Fall;  De- 
lightful Ride  up  the  Trail;  The  Cap  of  Liberty  and  Nevada  Fall;  Snow’s 
“Casa  Nevada;”  Eleven  Feet  of  Snow;  Diamond  Cascade;  “Taking  a 
Bawth  ” on  the  Silver  Apron;  Emerald  Pool;  Scene  from  the  Top  of  the 
Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls;  The  Ladders;  Fern  Grotto . .438 

CHAPTER,  XXVI.  Grizzly  Peak,  Hale  Dome,  and  Cloud’s  Rest.  Ascent 
of  Grizzly  Peak  by  Mr.  Chas.  A.  Bailey;  The  Dangerous  Yet  Compensating 
Climb.  Early  Futile  Attempts  to  Ascend  the  Half  Dome;  Anderson’s  Per- 
severance Crowned  with  Success;  The  View  Therefrom  without  Its 
Counterpart  on  Earth;  Others  Who  Have  Climbed  It;  The  Rope  Torn 
Down  by  an  Avalanche;  Thrilling  Adventure  of  Two  Young  Men  When 
Engaged  in  Replacing  It.  The  Marvelously  Comprehensive  View  of  the 
Sierras  from  Cloud’s  Rest;  The  Way  Thither  over  Old  Moraines,  and 
Past  Glacier-polished  Mountain-sides;  The  “ Umbrella  Tree  ” Near  the  Top 
of  Nevada  Fall;  The  Wonderful  “Snow  Plant  ” of  the  Sierras 454 

CHAPTER  XXVII.  Glacier  Point  and  its  Galaxy  of  Glories.  The  Glacier 
Point  Trail  and  Its  Builder,  James  McCauley;  Remarkable  Scenes  on  the 
Way;  Union  Point;  The  Agassiz  Column;  Moran  Point;  The  Sierras  from 
McCauley’s  Porch;  Startling  View  from  Glacier  Point;  Derrick  Dodd’s 
Tough  Hen  Story;  Sentinel  Dome;  Ascent  of  Mt.  Starr  King;  Sugar  Loaf 
Shape  of  the  South  Dome  from  the  Glacier  Canon  Trail;  The  Too-lool-we- 
ack  Fall  and  Canon;  Picturesque  Road  from  Chinquapin  Flat  to  Glacier 
Point 467 

CHAPTER  XXVIII.  The  Upper  Yo  Semite  Fall,  Eagle  Peak,  Lake  Ten- 
ie-ya,  and  High  Sierra.  Columbia  Rock,  and  Transport  Point;  Won- 
derful Changes  and  Effects  of  the  Falling  Water  Beneath  the  Upper  Yo 
Semite  Fall;  The  Cave  There;  Frolics  of  Yo  Semite  Creek  at  the  Top  of  the 
Fall  before  Making  Its  Leap  Down;  Awe-inspiring  View  from  Eagle  Peak; 
Dr.  Newman’s  Eulogy  There;  Forest-arched  Ride  to  Beautiful  Lake 
Ten-ie-ya;  The  Mountains  around  It;  John  L.  Murphy  and  His  Cabin;  A 
Curious  Phenomenon;  Miles  of  Glacier-polished  Granite;  The  Ascent  of  Mt. 
Hoffman;  Sources  of  Yo  Semite  Creek;  Upper  Verge  of  the  Timber  Line; 
Soda  Springs;  Ascent  of  Mt.  Dana;  Evidences  of  Ancient  Glaciers  Eight 
Hundred  Feet  in  Thickness  on  Top  of  It;  Living  Glaciers;  Inexpressibly 
Sublime  View  from  the  Summit  of  Mt.  Dana;  Ascent  of  Mt.  Lyell;  Its 
Large  Glacier;  Sources  of  the  Tuolumne  and  Merced  Rivers;  Scenes  on 
the  Way  When  Returning  to  Yo  Semite 475 


Vlll 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXIX.  The  Seasons  at  Yo  Semite  Valley.  The  Best  Time  to 
Visit  It;  Its  Captivating  Dress  in  Autumn;  Winter  at  Yo  Semite;  The 
Great  Storm  and  Flood  of  1867;  The  Snow  Fall;  Kind  of  Snow-shoes  Used; 
Enchantingly  Beautiful  Cloud  and  Snow  Effects;  Icicles  a Hundred  and 
Twenty  Feet  in  Length;  An  Ice  Cone  Five  Hundred  and  Fifty  Feet  in 
Height;  Magical  Changes  and  Brilliant  Hues  of  the  Sunlight  upon  the  Falling 
Water;  The  End 490 


Pom-pom-pa-sa  ! 


Illustrations, 


Page. 


In  the  Heart  of  the  Sierras.  .........  ....... ...  Opposite  Title. 


1. 

2. 

3- 

4- 

5- 

6. 

7- 

8. 

9- 


11. 

12. 

13- 


14. 

i5- 
1 6. 


17- 

1 8. 


Portrait  of  Author Opposite 

Bear  with  its  Prey 

Map  of  Routes  to  Yo  Semite  Valley Opposite 

Map  of  Yo  Semite  Valley “ 


General  View  of  Yo  Semite  Valley  from  Wawona  Road. 

Glimpse  of  Yo  Semite  Valley,  from  Big  Oak  Flat  Road.  “ 

Ribbon  Fall — Lung-oo-too-koo-yah “ 

Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah,  or  El  Capitan “ 

Indians  on  the  March 

Initial  Letter  O — A Mining  Scene 

The  Indian  Attack  

Enchantment  Point — Too-un-yah Opposite 

See!  I’ve  Struck  It — A Mining  Scene 

A Miner’s  Cabin 

Ho!  for  the  Mountains 

We  Seek  a “Cut  Off” 

And  Find  a “C ut  Off  ” 

General  View  of  Yo  Semite  Valley  (First  sketch  ever  taken  of  it) 


3 

9 

12 

12 

13 

26 

42 

58 

73 

75 

75 

82 

82 

83 

84 

85 

86 
88 


(ix) 


X 


ILL  US  TLA  TIOJSTS. 


19.  To-coy-^e  and  Tis-sa-ack,  North,  and  Half  Dome 90 

20.  Steady,  There!  Steady! 93 

21.  Cascade  Falls Opposite  98 

22.  The  Old  Hutchings  House 102 

23.  Now,  for  Another  Start 106 

24.  Cathedral  Spires — Poo-see-na  Chuck-ka.  Opposite  106 

25.  Fastening  on  the  Packs 119 

26.  In  Trouble 119 

27.  Mexican  Persuasion 119 

28.  Pack  Train  on  the  Trail 120 

29.  The  Pack  Train  in  Camp  at  Night 123 

30.  Carrying  Deliverance 125 

31.  Caught  in  a Snow-storm 126 

32.  The  Three  Brothers— Pom-pom-pa-sa Opposite  130 

33.  Portrait  of  James  C.  Lamon 135 

34.  Lamon’s  Log  Cabin ....  136 

35.  Hutchings’  Old  Log  Cabin Opposite  138 

36.  The  Yo  Semite  Fall — Cho-lock — in  Early  Spring Opposite  )54 

37.  Outline  Plan  of  an  Open  Tent  for  Camping 170 

38.  Eagle  Peak,  from  Upper  Iron  Bridge Opposite  170 

39.  Alcatraces  (Alcatraz),  or  Pelican  Island 173 

40.  The  Yo  Semite  Fall — Reflected,  During  High  Water.  ..  .Opp.  178 

41.  Country  Near  Martinez 183 

42.  Native  Californians  Racing 184 

43.  Californians  Snatching  the  Rooster  When  in  Full  Gallop...  186 

44.  Passing  the  Golden  Gate 194 

45.  The  Fort  (near  view) 195 

46.  Red,  or  Treasure  Rock 196 

47.  The  Two  Sisters 197 

48.  Entering  the  Straits  of  Carquinez 198 

49.  Looking  Toward  the  Sacramento  River 199 

50.  Salmon  Fishing — Paying  out  the  Seine 200 

51.  “ “ Hauling  in  the  Seine 201 

52.  “ “ Group  of  Salmon  202 

53.  The  San  Joaquin  River  at  Night— Tules  on  Fire 205 

54.  Entering  the  Stockton  Slough 206 

55.  North  Dome — To-coy-^: — From  Tis-sa-ack  Bridge Opposite  210 

56.  The  “Prairie  Schooner” 209 

57.  Calaveras  Big  Tree  Grove  Hotel 218 

58.  Cotillion  Party  of  Thirty-Two  Dancing  on  the  Big  Tree  Stump  220 

59.  Boring  Down  the  Original  Big  Tree  with  Pump  Augers 221 

60.  Trunk  of  Big  Tree,  and  Pavilion 222 

61.  Big  Tree,  “Mother  of  the  Forest” 225 

62.  Horseman  Emerging  from  the  “Father  of  the  Forest” 226 

63.  Big  Tree,  “Smith’s  Cabin” 230 


ILLUSTRATIONS.  xi 

64.  Cave  View,  “ Bridal  Veil  Chamber” 235 

65.  Upper  Side  of  Upper  Natural  Bridge 237 

66.  Upper  Side  of  Lower  Natural  Bridge 238 

67.  Cone  and  Foliage  of  the  Big  Trees,  Ordinary  Size 242 

68.  Representative  Cones  and  Flowers  of  the  two  Sequoias.  243 

69.  The  Horned  Toad 250 

70.  Eggs  of  the  Horned  Toad 251 

71.  The  Wawona  Hotel 255 

72.  Big  Tree,  “Grizzly  Giant” : 257 

73.  Driving  Through  the  Living  Big  Tree  “Wawona” 260 

74.  Bear  Hunt  in  the  Fresno  Grove 264 

75.  Chil-noo-al-na  Falls 266 

76.  The  Sierras  from  Signal  Peak 269 

77.  Rancheros  Lassoing  Cattle 276 

78.  Fossilized  Mastodon’s  Tooth  and  Portion  of  Jaw 281 

79.  The  California  Road  Runner 282 

80.  A Tarantula’s  Nest 284 

81.  Bower  Cave 287 

82.  The  Vernal  Fall — Pi-wy-ack Opposite  290 

83.  Indian  Woman  Panning  Out  Gold  294 

84.  The  Prospector  294 

85.  Batea,  or  Mexican  Mining  Bowl  296 

86.  Chinamen  Washing  Out  Gold  with  a Cradle 296 

87.  Sluice  Mining  and  Ground  Sluicing 298 

88.  Water  Flume  for  Mining  Purposes 299 

89.  Miner’s  Pan  and  Horn  Spoon 301 

90.  Miners  Sinking  a Shaft 302 

91.  Miners  Following  Down  the  Ledge 303 

92.  Hydraulic  Mining . . .Opposite  306 

93.  Pair  of  California  Valley  Quail 306 

94.  The  Boy  that  “Didn’t-Know  Nuffink” 307 

95.  California  Red-Headed  Woodpecker  ( Melanerpes  formicivorus) . . . 308 

96.  Wall  of  Table  Mountain Opposite  314 

97.  Table  Mountain,  Tuolumne  County,  Cal 313 

98.  A Chinese  Couple 315 

99.  Chinese  Feast  to  the  Dead..  316 

100.  The  Domes  of  Yo  Semite Opposite  322 

101.  The  “Dead  Giant”  Big  Tree  Stump,  Tuolumne  Grove 328 

102.  Horse  on  Snow-shoes 330 

103.  Nevada  Fall — Yo-wi-ye Opposite  338 

104.  Scene  on  the  Merced  River 341 

105.  The  Fissure 345 

106.  The  Big  Tree  Room  (Barnard’s  Hotel) Opposite  349 

107.  Nathan  B.  Phillips,  “Pike” 354 

108.  The  Yo  Semite  Chapel 356 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


xii  ' 

109.  California  Silver  Fir  ( Picea  Bracteata ) 359 

1 10.  Cone  of  “ “ 360 

hi.  Nature  versus  Art — “What  do  you  use  for  Bait?” 364 

112.  The  Sentinel — Loya — El  Capitan,  and  Valley Opposite  368 

1 13.  Indian  Canon 375 

1 14.  Ford  of  Yo  Semite  Creek 378 

1 1 5.  Near  View  of  Yo  Semite  Fall 381 

1 16.  North  Dome,  Royal  Arches,  and  Washington  Tower 384 

1 17.  Mirror  Lake — Ke-ko-too-yem — (Sleeping  Water) 386 

1 18.  The  Three  Brothers — Pom-pom-pa-sa 395 

119.  Half  Dome,  and  Cloud’s  Rest,  from  Glacier  Point.  . .Opposite  400 

120.  Distant  view  of  Bridal  Veil  Fall — Po-ho-no 403 

121.  Near  view  of  Bridal  Veil  Fall — Po-ho-no 404 

122.  Tenieya  Canon  and  Surrounding  Mountains Opposite  408 

123.  Merced  River,  View  from  El  Capitan  Bridge 410 

124.  The  Sentinel — Loya 413 

125.  “ “ (Casting  Reflections) 415 

126.  Indian  Tom 420 

127.  Indian  Woman  Gathering  Acorns  423 

128.  Indian  Woman  Carrying  Acorns 425 

129.  “ Grinding  Acorns  and  Seeds 426 

130.  Indians  Preparing  and  Cooking  Food 427 

131.  “ Catching  Grasshoppers 429 

132.  “ at  a Fandango 431 

133.  Indian  Marriage  Ceremony 432 

134.  Indian  Preparing  Body  for  Cremation . 435 

135.  Indians  Burning  their  Dead 436 

136.  Cap  of  Liberty  and  Nevada  Fall  444 

137.  Silver  Apron  and  Diamond  Cascade 449 

138.  The  Ladders,  in  Winter 452 

139.  Indian  Escape  Trail  to  Half  Dome 456 

140.  Ascending  the  Lower  Dome 457 

141.  Anderson  Standing  on  the  Edge  of  Half  Dome,  Looking  West..  458 

142.  Pen  Sketch  of  Anderson  on  Half  Dome,  Looking  East 459 

143.  The  Zigzags  to  Top  of  Nevada  Fall Opposite  463 

144.  The  California  Snow  Plant  ( Sarcodes  sanguinea) “ 466 

145.  Agassiz  Column “ 468 

146.  Sierras,  from  Glacier  Point — Key  to 470 

147.  Half  Dome,  as  seen  from  Too-lool-a-we-ack  Canon 473 

148.  The  Too-lool-a-we-ack,  or  Glacier  Canon  Fall >474 

1.49.  Cave  at  Base  of  Upper  Fall 477 

150.  Map  of  the  High  Sierra 483 

1 5 1.  Mount  Lyell  and  its  Glacier,  from  Tuolumne  Meadows. Opp.  487 

152.  Advent  of  Winter  at  Yo  Semite  Valley Opposite  491 

t$3.  The  Norwegian  Snow-shoe,  used  at  Yo  Semite  in  Winter 494 

154.  Ice  Cone  of  550  feet  Beneath  the  Upper  Yo  Semite  Fall....  495 


2 


//jossrralt.o.  ^y) 


COPIED  BY 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  MAP  OF  THE 


YOSEMITE  VALLEYim  VICINITY. 


HAST  CENTilAL  CALIFORNIA- 


Longitude 


CapLGEaM.VHF.BXER,  Corps  of  En£r 


3IHECTI0N  OF  BRIG.  GEN.  H.  C.  WRIGHT  CHIEF  OF  ENGINEERS  U SABMY 


R OF  THE  HONORABLE  THE  SECRETARY  OF  WAR  UNDER  THE 


pHoto-typo  esy  Britton  & Rey, 


YO 


SEMITE  VALLEY. 


CHAPTER  I. 


AS  OTHERS  SEE  IT. 

Like  thoughts  whose  very  sweetness  yieldeth  proof 
That  they  were  born  for  immortality. 

— Wordsworth’s  Sonnet. 
To  him  who  in  the  love  of  nature  holds 
Communion  with  her  visible  forms,  she  speaks 
A various  language. 

• — Bryant’s  Thanatopsis. 
The  roaring  cataract,  the  snow  topt  hill. 

Inspiring  awe,  till  breath  itself  stands  still. 

—Bloomfield’s  Farmer  s Boy . 

Voiced  impressions  of  Horace  Greeley  Rev.  Thomas  Starr 
King,  Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney,  Samuel  B.  Bowles,  John  S.  Hittell, 
Prof.  O.  S.  Fowler,  Hon.  Robt.  Marsham,  Prof.  Wm.  H.  Brewer, 
James  Vick,  Rev.  W.  P.  Abbott,  Benjamin  F.  Taylor,  James  A. 
Garfield  (President  of  the  U.  S.),  Mrs.  C.  A.  Chamberlain,  Hon. 
Thomas  Scott,  Hon.  Therese  Yelverton,  Helen  Hunt  Jackson, 
His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Sutherland,  Albert  D.  Richardson,  Sidney 
Andrews,  Mrs.  Jean  Bruce  Washburn,  Charles  L.  Brace,  Mary  E. 
Blake,  and  others.  It  is  with  reluctance  and  sincere  regret  that 
the  recorded  sentiments  of  many  other  distinguished  visitors  to  Yo 
Semite  are  necessarily  omitted  from  this  representative  galaxy. 

Of  the  grandest  sights  I have  enjoyed — Rome  from  the  dome 
of  St.  Peter’s,  the  Alps  from  the  valley  of  Lake  Como,  Mount 

(13) 


14 


IN  TIIE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


Blanc  and  her  glaciers  from  Chamouni,  Niagara,  and  the  Yo  Semite, 
— 1 judge  the  last  named  the  most  unique  and  stupendous.  It  is  a 
partially  wooded  gorge,  100  to  300  rods  wide,  and  3,000  to  4,000 
feet  deep,  between  almost  perpendicular  walls  of  gray  granite,  and 
here  and  there  a dark  yellow  pine,  rooted  in  a crevice  of  either 
wall,  and  clinging  with  desperate  tenacity  to  its  dizzy  elevation. 
The  isolation  of  the  Yo  Semite,  the  absolute  wilderness  of  its  sylvan 
solitudes,  many  miles  from  human  settlement  or  cultivation,  its 
cascade  2,000  feet  high,  though  the  stream  which  makes  this  leap 
has  worn  a channel  in  the  hard  bed-rock  to  a depth  of  1,000  feet, 
renders  it  the  grandest  marvel  that  ever  met  my  gaze. — Horace 
Greeley,  N.  Y.  Independent  of  March , 1860. 

Nowhere  among  the  Alps,  in  no  pass  of  the  Andes,  and  in  no 
cafion  of  the  mighty  Oregon  Range,  is  there  such  stupendous  rock 
scenery  as  the  traveler  here  lifts  his  eyes  to. — Rev.  Thomas  Starr 
King,  San  Francisco. 

The  peculiar  features  of  the  Yosemite  are:  First,  the  near  ap- 
proach to  verticality  of  its  walls;  next,  their  great  height,  not  only 
absolutely,  but  as  compared  to  the  width  of  the  valley  itself;  and 
finally,  the  very  small  amount  of  debris  or  talus , at  the  bottom  of 
these  gigantic  cliffs.  These  are  the  great  characteristics  of  the  val- 
ley throughout  its  whole  length;  but  besides  these,  there  are  many 
other  striking  peculiarities  and  features,  both  of  sublimity  and 
beauty,  which  can  hardly  be  surpassed,  if  equaled,  by  those  of 
any  other  mountain  scenery  in  the  world. — Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney, 
State  Geologist  of  California. 

The  overpowering  sense  of  the  sublime,  of  awful  desolation, 
of  transcendent  marvelousness  and  unexpectedness,  that  swept 
over  us,  as  we  reined  our  horses  sharply  out  of  green  forests,  and 
stood  upon  a high  jutting  rock  that  over-looked  this  rolling,  up- 
heaving sea  of  granite  mountains,  holding,  far  down  in  its  rough 
lap,  the  vale  of  meadow  and  grove  and  river — such  a tide  of  feel- 
ing, such  stoppage  of  ordinary  emotions,  comes  at  rare  intervals 
in  any  life.  It  was  the  confrontal  of  God  face  to  face,  as  in  great 
danger,  or  sudden  death.  It  was  Niagara  magnified.  All  that 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


15 


was  mortal  shrank  back;  alt  that  was  immortal  swept  to  the  front, 
and  bowed  down  in  awe. — Samuel  B.  Bowles,  Springfield  Repub- 
lican. 

Yo  Semite  is  the  crowding  of  a multitude  of  romantic,  peculiar, 
and  grand  scenes  within  a very  small  space. — John  S.  Hittell’s 
Guide  Book . 

The  longer  we  look  the  greater  the  scenes  appear. — Prof.  O. 
S.  Fowler,  Boston , Mass. 

I wish  to  keep  the  view  in  my  mind  forever. — J.  A.  Bril- 
linger,  Ewingsville,  Pa. 

I was  never  so  near  Heaven  in  my  life. — H.  Windel,  San 
Francisco. 

I have  spent  seventeen  days  in  Yo  Semite,  and  I never  left  a 
place  with  so  much  regret  in  my  life.  I have  several  times  visited 
all  the  noted  places  of  Europe,  and  many  that  are  out  of  the  regular 
tourist’s  round:  I have  crossed  the  Andes  in  three  different  places, 
and  been  conducted  to  the  sights  deemed  most  remarkable:  I have 
been  among  the  charming  scenery  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  the 
Himalayas  of  India,  and  the  mountain  districts  of  Australia,  but 
never  have  I seen  so  much  of  sublime  grandeur,  relieved  by  so 
much  beauty,  as  that  I have  witnessed  in  Yo  Semite. — Hon.  Bobt. 
Marsham,  Maidstone , Kent , England. 

As  a member  of  the  State  Geological  Survey  I have  visited 
the  Yosemite  Yalley  four  times — June,  1863,  August,  1864,  Sep- 
tember, 1864,  and  April,  1875 — and  the  valley  seems  grander  on 
this  fourth  visit  than  it  did  on  the  first. — Prof.  Wm.  H.  Brewer, 
Yale  College , New  Haven , Conn. 

The  road  to  Yo  Semite,  like  the  way  of  life,  is  narrow  and 
difficult,  but  the  end,  like  the  end  of  a well-spent  life,  is  glorious 
beyond  the  highest  anticipation. — James  Tick,  Rochester , N.  Y. 

Here  speaks  the  voice  of  God,  and  here  his  power  is  seen. 
Let  man  be  dumb. — Rev.  W.  P.  Abbott,  New  York  City. 


16 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


Yo  Semite  awaited  us  without  warning,  met  us  without  com- 
ing. Spectral  white  in  the  glancing  of  the  sun,  the  first  thought 
was  that  the  granite  ledges  of  all  the  mountains  had  come  to  res- 
urrection, and  were  standing  pale  and  dumb  before  the  Lord.  I 
turned  to  it  again,  and  began  to  see  the  towers,  the  domes,  the 
spires,  the  battlements,  the  arches,  and  the  white  clouds  of  solid 
granite,  surging  up  into  the  air  and  come  to  everlasting  anchor  till 
“the  mountains  shall  be  moved.”  You  hasten  on;  you  hear  the 
winds  intoning  in  the  choral  galleries  a mile  above  your  head;  you 
hear  the  crash  of  waters  as  of  cataracts  in  the  sky;  3Tou  trample 
upon  broad  shadows  that  have  fallen  thousands  of  feet  down,  like 
the  cast-otf  garments  of  descending  Night. — Benj.  F.  Taylor’s 
Between  the  Gates. 


This  is  the  crowning  glory  of  all  views  on  this  continent. — 
Chas.  Caspar,  Meridian , Conn. 

If  my  business  interests  lay  upon  this  coast,  I would  build  a 
railroad  to  this  truly  marvelous  valley,  within  one  year  from  this 
date. — Hon.  Thomas  Scott,  Pennsylvania  Central  R.  R. 

I have  spent  the  four  happiest  months  of  my  life  in  this  glori- 
ous valley. — Hon.  Therese  Yelverton  ( Lady  Avonmore). 

An  indescribable  delight  took  possession  of  me;  the  silence 
seemed  more  than  silence;  it  seemed  to  quiver  without  sound,  just 
as  the  warm  air  shimmered  without  stir,  along  all  the  outlines  of  the 
rocky  walls.  On  my  left  hand  rose  the  granite  watch-tower  Loya 
(Sentinel  Eock),  on  my  right  the  colossal  buttress  Tu-tock-ah- 
nu-la  (El  Capitan).  The  Cathedral  Spires,  the  Three  Brothers,  all 
were  in  full  sight.  Wherever  I stood,  the  mountain  walls  seemed 
to  shut  close  around  me  in  a circle.  I said  to  myself,  again  and 
again:  “ Only  between  3,000  and  4,000  feet  high!”  But  the  figures 
had  lost  their  meaning.  All  sense  of  estimated  distance  was 
swallowed  up,  obliterated,  by  the  feeling  of  what  seemed  to  be 
immeasurable  height. — H.  H.’s  Bits  of  Travel. 

One  might  stay  here  for  months  and  see  new  beauties  every 
day. — Mrs.  A.  W.  Gillette,  Grass  Lake,  Mich. 


THE  10  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


17 


No  one  can  study  this  valley  and  its  surroundings  without 
being  broader-minded  thereafter. — James  A.  Garfield,  President 
of  the  United  States. 

I linger’d  till  a shaft  of  fire 

Shot  o’er  the  mountains — spire  by  spire, 

Burned  in  the  swift  and  broadening  flame 
That  onward  swelled,  till  it  became 
A wide  and  mellow  amber  flood, 

That  poured  o’er  mountain,  stream,  and  wood, 

And  lit  the  blue,  deep  dome  above 
With  Deity’s  warm  smile  of  love; 

How  fair  that  place — how  radiant  all 
The  scene  beneath  that  mountain  wall  ! 

Then  suddenly  awoke  to  me 
The  pine  wood’s  varied  melody; — 

The  murmurous  music  of  the  river, 

The  aspen’s  knv,  light,  dreamy  quiver, 

The  jay-bird’s  quick,  discordant  cry, 

The  robin’s  tender  minstrelsy 
I heard — and  full,  and  deep,  and  strong — 

(Would  I could  ever  keep  that  song!) 

The  pean  of  the  w'ater-fall 

Came  to  me  ’neath  that  mountain  wall. 

And  flowers  were  there — the  old  dear  flowers — 

The  first  I loved  in  childhood’s  hours; 

There  glowed  the  wildling  rose,  that  grew 
Beside  my  home  when  life  was  new; — 

O golden  heart — 0 lips  so  red, 

Naught  from  thy  precious  smile  had  fled 
Through  the  long  years; — thy  odorous  breath 
Yet  told  of  love  that  knows  no  death  ! 

O life,  thy  stern,  thy  gentle  call 
Came  to  me,  ’neath  that  mountain  wall  ! 

- — Mrs.  C.  A.  Chamberlain,  Sacramento. 

Keal  estate  is  very  high  hereabouts  ! — Derrick  Dodd,  S.  F. 
Evening  Post. 

This  spoils  one  for  any  other  scenery  upon  earth. — His  Grace, 
the  Duke  of  Sutherland,  England. 

Nature  had  here  lifted  her  curtain  to  reveal  the  vast  and  the 
infinite.  It  elicited  no  adjectives,  no  exclamations.  With  a be- 


18 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


wildering  sense  of  divine  power  and  human  littleness,  I could  only 
gaze  in  silence  till  the  view  strained  my  brain  and  pained  my  eyes, 
compelling  me  to  turn  away  and  rest  from  its  oppressive  magni- 
tude.— Albert  I).  Richardson’s  Beyond  the  Mississippi. 

Speech  may  be  silver,  but  in  this  marvelous  vale,  where 
grandeur  and  majesty  have  met,  “ Silence  is  golden.” — E.  Edmon- 
ston,  Santa  Barbara , Cal. 

Suddenly,  as  I rode  along,  I heard  a shout.  1 knew  the  val- 
ley had  revealed  itself  to  those  who  were  at  the  front  of  the  line. 
I turned  my  head  away.  I couldn’t  look  until  I had  tied  my 
horse.  Then  I walked  down  to  the  ledge  and  crawled  out  upon 
the  over-hanging  rocks.  I believe  some  men  walk  out  there — it’s 
a dull  sort  of  a soul  who  can  do  that.  In  all  my  life,  let  it  lead  me 
where  it  may,  I think  I shall  see  nothing  else  so  grand,  so  awful, 
so  sublime,  so  beautiful — beautiful  with  a beauty  not  of  this  earth 
— as  that  vision  of  the  Yalley.  How  long  1 sat  there  I never  shall 
know.  I brought  the  picture  away  with  me;  I have  only  to  shut 
my  eyes,  and  1 see  it  as  I saw  it  in  that  hour  of  hours.  J think  I 
shall  see  nothing  else  so  sublime  and  beautiful,  till,  happily,  1 stand 
within  the  gates  of  the  Heavenly  City. — Sidney  Andrews’  Letter 
to  the  Boston  Advertiser . 

I may  as  well  try  to  measure  a rainbow  with  a two-foot  rule 
as  to  take  this  in. — Wm.  I) arrack,  New  York  City. 

My  soul  bowed  down  in  wondering,  humble  awe, 

When  first  thy  peaks  and  water-falls  I saw; 

And  every  hour  but  shows  how  vain  ’twould  be 
For  my  frail  mind  to  hope  to  picture  thee. 

Thy  spell  shall  live  when  those  who  view  thee  now, 

Have  passed  with  ages  ’neath  thy  mighty  brow, 

And  like  thy  mists,  in  gorgeous  gleamings  curled, 

Our  names  have  melted  from  this  changing  world. 

— Mrs.  Jean  Bruce  Washburn,  San  Francisco. 

Erom  the  hotel  there  are  excursions  enough  to  occupy  one  for 
weeks  among  the  beautiful  scenes  of  the  valley.  One  of  the  most 
enjoyable  features  of  these  excursions  is  simply  riding  up  and 
down  it,  getting  the  new  aspects  which  open  freshly  every  half 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


19 


mile,  and  are  different  every  hour  of  the  day.  The  Avonderful 
thing  about  the  canon,  and  which  will  hereafter  draw  many  an 
invalid  here  from  distant  lands,  is  its  divine  atmosphere.  To  me, 
just  recovering  from  a tedious  fever,  it  seemed  the  very  elixir  of 
life— cool,  clear,  stimulating,  and  filled  with  light  and  glory  from 
the  sun  of  the  south,  which  here  never  seems  in  summer  to  have 
a cloud.  The  nights  are  cool,  but  midday  would  be  too  warm 
were  it  not  for  the  delicious  sea-breeze  which  every  day  at  eleven 
blows  in  from  the  Golden  Gate,  150  miles  away.  The  gorge  is 
fortunately  east  and  west,  just  opposite  San  Francisco,  and  about 
midway  between  the  two  flanks  of  the  Sierras — here  some  seventy 
miles  in  width.  Were  it  a north  and  south  valley,  even  at  its  alti- 
tude (4,000  feet  above  sea  level),  it  would  be  almost  intolerable. 
Now,  nothing  can  surpass  its  mild,  invigorating  climate,  and  har- 
monious atmosphere.  The  charm  of  the  wonderful  valley  is  its 
cheerfulness  and  joy.  Even  the  awe-inspiring  grandeur  and 
majesty  of  its  features  does  not  overwhelm  the  sense  of  its  exquis- 
ite beauty,  its  wonderful  delicacy,  and  color,  and  life,  and  joy. 

As  I recall  those  rides  in  the  fresh  morning,  or  the  dreamy 
noon,  that  scene  of  unequaled  grandeur  and  beauty  is  forever 
stamped  on  my  memory,  to  remain  when  all  other  scenes  of  earth 
have  passed  from  remembrance — the  pearly  gray  and  purple  prec- 
ipices, awful  in  mass,  far  above  one,  with  deep  shadows  on  their 
rugged  surfaces,  dark  lines  of  gigantic  archways  or  fantastic 
images  drawn  clearly  upon  them,  the  bright  white  water  dashing 
over  the  distant  gray  tops  seen  against  the  dark  blue  of  the  un- 
fathomable sky,  the  heavy  shadows  over  the  valley  from  the 
mighty  peaks,  the  winding  stream  and  peaceful  green  sward  with 
gay  wild  flowers  below,  the  snowy  summits  of  the  Sierras  far 
away,  the  atmosphere  of  glory  illuminating  all,  and  the  eternal 
voice  of  many  waters  wherever  you  walk  or  rest!  This  is  the 
Yo  Semite  in  memory. — Charles  L.  Brace’s  The  New  West. 

Dropped  at  our  very  feet,  and  clothed  in  such  fair  proportions 
of  majesty  and  beauty  as  made  it  more  a spiritual  joy  than  an 
earthly  loveliness.  The  valley  rested,  silent  and  set  apart,  as  if 
human  eyes  for  the  first  time  beheld  it,  wrapped  in  a veil  of  soft, 
purple  mist,  that  made  it  seem,  in  spite  of  its  nearness,  like  a vis- 


20 


IN'  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


ion  that  would  fade  while  we  gazed.  In  front,  El  Capitan,  erect 
and  fearless,  as  became  the  warden  of  the  magic  world  beyond, 
lifting  its  bare  white  front  3,300  feet  in  one  superb  perpendicular 
line  from  base  to  summit;  opposite,  the  soft-falling,  swaying  foam 
of  the  falls  bounding  nearly  1,000  feet  through  the  air  before  it 
struck  the  broken  rocks  below;  beyond,  the  rounding  curves  of  the 
Three  Graces,  the  sweeping  line  of  the  South  Dome,  and  far  away 
the  veiled  summit  of  Cloud’s  Rest,  piled  with  soft,  gray  shadows. 
A broken  line  of  shining  water  came  like  a silver  thread,  showing 
here  and  there  in  the  depths  of  the  lovely  valley,  and  broadened 
into  a small  mirrored  lake  almost  at  our  feet  below.  It  was  be- 
yond conception  and  utterance.  The  sense  of  solitude,  of  peace, 
and  of  an  inspiration  which  sprang  from  both  was  so  profound  as 
to  be  oppressive.  Even  the  most  frivolous  spirits  among  us  were 
struck  with  sudden  calm,  as  if  they  stood  at  the  portals  of  some 
divine  mystery,  and  it  was  with  a feeling  almost  of  relief  that  we 
turned  away  at  last,  and  went  down  the  slope  of  the  dizzy  moun- 
tain to  enter  in  at  the  gates  below. — Mary  E.  Blake’s  On  the  Wing. 

The  only  spot  that  I have  ever  found  that  came  up  to  the 
brag. — Ralph  Waldo  Emerson. 

After  such  strikingly  graphic,  word-clothed  impressions  and 
confessions  as  those  above  presented,  a more  detailed  descriptive 
picture  of  this  marvelous  locality,  and  its  matchless  surroundings, 
would  seem  to  be  suggestive  of  an  attempt  to  compass  the  impos- 
sible. Even  a residence  within  its  sublime  environments  of  nearly 
a quarter  of  a century,  in  winter  as  well  as  in  summer,  while 
making  me  lovingly  familiar  with  its  many  {esthetic  charms,  and 
amazing  natural  phenomena,  only  convinces  that  approximate 
justice  in  delineation  is  simply  unattainable.  One  may  tell  of 
its  vertical  or  tree-studded  walls,  and  their  relative  heights;  of 
the  hoary-headed  and  dome-crowned  summits  around  it;  of  its 
lofty  and  picturesque  waterfalls,  feathered,  it  may  be,  with 
vapory  rockets;  of  its  deep  and  bo  wider- strewn  tributary  canons; 
of  its  defiant  and  cloud-draped  crags  and  peaks;  of  its  beautiful 
and  tree-margined  river;  of  its  flower-carpeted  and  shrub-framed 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


21 


meadows;  or  press  into  valuable  service  the  figures  and  compari- 
sons of  experienced  scientists,  and  determine  the  diameter,  and 
angle,  and  altitude  of  every  cliff,  or  rock,  and  forest  tree  ; but 
these  are  only  facts.  And  one  may  explain  the  interesting  inci- 
dents of  its  discovery;  the  geological  theories  of  its  formation; 
its  many  explicit  lessons  in  botanical  science;  the  habits,  customs, 
life  and  legends  of  its  Indians;  and  present  the  many  characteristic 
phases  of  tourist  experiences;  but  these,  with  hundreds  of  other 
kindred  themes,  are,  after  all,  nothing  but  hard  and  unfeeling 
facts;  whereas  Yo  Semite,  to  the  poet,  is  the  grandest  of  lyrics; 
to  the  artist,  Nature’s  ever-captivating  picture  gallery;  to  the 
preacher,  the  most  suggestively  eloquent  of  sermons ; and  to  the 
worshiper,  the  sublimest  of  temples — where  God  is  always  within. 
Who,  then,  can  enter  into  the  holy  of  holies  of  all  of  these  ? He 
who  might  attempt  it  should  not  be  unmindful  of  the  divine 
command  to  Moses:  “Draw  not  nigh  hither:  put  off  thy  shoes 
from  off  thy  feet,  for  the  place  whereon  thou  standest  is  holy 


Then  who  may  fully  apprehend  the  law  by  which  the  many- 
voiced choral  symphonies  of  the  wund-swept  trees,  or  leaping 
■water-falls,  or  bounding  cataracts,  or  “ babbling  brooks,”  may  be 
set  to  music?  Or  conceive  how  the  blessed  sunlight,  as  it  plays  hide 
and  seek  among  the  shadows,  or  maps  surrounding  forms  upon 
our  path,  or  gilds  the  mossy  trunks  of  stately  trees,  can  be  painted? 
And  supposing  it  more  than  possible  that  the  height,  and  depth, 
and  breadth  of  the  many  time-cut  furrows  upon  and  in  the 
grand  old  face  of  one  of  these  mountain  walls  were  accurately 
determined,  could  the  exact  shade  of  purple,  or  gray,  or  golden, 
or  roseate  haze,  that  is  ever  sleeping  among  its  wrinkles,  or  bur- 
nishing up  its  ridges,  be  faithfully  portrayed?  No,  Mr.  Gradgrind, 
you  are,  at  best,  compelled  to  “stick  to  facts,”  and  leave  individ- 
ual apprehension,  good  taste,  and  imagination  to  supply  the  rest. 
To  present  such  facts  concerning  Yo  Semite,  and  other  sub- 
lime fastnesses  of  the  High  Sierra,  as  it  is  hoped  will  be  wel- 
come to  the  reader,  will  be  the  devoted  purpose  of  each  subse- 
quent chapter  of  this  book. 


CHAPTER  II. 

CAUSES  LEADING  TO  ITS  DISCOVERY. 


I am  not  covetous  for  gold; 

Nor  care  I who  doth  feed  upon  my  cost; 

It  yearns  me  not  if  men  my  garments  wear; 

Such  outward  things  dwell  not  in  my  desires; 

But  if  it  be  a sin  to  covet  honor 

I am  the  most  offending  soul  alive. 

— Shakespear’s  Henry  V.,  Act  IV. 

Tender-handed  stroke  a nettle, 

And  it  stings  you  for  your  pains; 

Grasp  it  like  a man  of  mettle, 

And  it  soft  as  silk  remains. 

— Aaron  Hill,  written  upon  a window  in  Scotland. 

After  the  discovery  of  gold  at  Sutter’s  saw-mill,  Coloma,. 
California,  January  19,  1848,  by  James  W.  Marshall — who  died, 
poor,  August  10th,  1885,  at  the  age  of  73  years — and  the 
news  of  that  auspicious  event  had  winged  its  electrifying  flight 
to  the  farthest  corner  of  the  civilized  world,  men,  filled  witli 
ambitious  hopes  and  yearnings,  began  to  flock  towards  the  new 
El  Dorado  from  every  clime  and  country.  The  beautiful  and 
land-locked  Bay  of  San  F rancisco  was  soon  plowed  by  the  prows 
of  vessels  of  every  class  and  tonnage,  and  its  recently  uneventful 
calm  broken  by  the  health-giving  breezes  of  a new  and  vigorous, 
commercial  activity. 

“Awake  but  one,  and  lo!  what  myriads  rise! 

Each  stamps  its  image  as  the  other  flies!  ” 


The  streets  of  the  sleeping  pueblo  of  San  Francisco,  filled  by  the 
in-flowing  tide  of  humanity  thus  attracted,  awoke  it  at  once  to 
a business  energy  that  eventually  grew  into  a habit,  and  laid  the 
foundation  of  its  present  commercial  prosperity. 

(22) 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


23 


Feverish  with  enlarged  expectations,  and  eager  to  realize  the 
day-dreams  of  their  susceptible  imaginations,  any  and  every  kind 
of  conveyance,  by  water  or  by  land,  was  pressed  into  immediate 
service,  for  speeding  them  to  the  gold  mines.  Discomfort,  ex- 
posure, pleasure  postponed,  disappointment,  suffering,  danger,  and 
possible  sickness  or  prospective  death,  held  them  in  no  restraint; 
like  the  proverbial  youth  who  had  heard  in  his  native  village 
that  the  streets  of  a certain  city  were  paved  with  gold,  would 
give  himself  no  rest,  either  day  or  night,  until  it  could  be  reached, 
and  “a  hat  full  of  it  ” obtained. 

Beguiled  by  this  fascination,  that  became  almost  an  infatua- 
tion, side-hills  and  flats,  ravines  and  gulches,  canons  and  rivers, 
threading  far  among  the  spurs  of  the  Sierras,  became  familiar  to 
the  footsteps  of  the  dauntless  prospector.  Unbroken  solitudes, 
untrodden  fastnesses,  far  from  civilized  habitation  or  human 
succor,  created  in  him  no  sense  of  fear,  or  thought  of  peril.  The 
occasional  sight  of  Indians,  whether  singly  or  in  groups,  evoked 
no  surprise,  invited  no  uneasiness,  and  elicited  no  suspicion.  A 
casual,  perhaps  an  inquisitive  glance,  might  occasionally  be 
thrown  over  the  shoulder  of  the  one  to  the  other  in  indifferent 
recognition  as  they  passed ; but  that  was  in  no  way  to  be  inter- 
preted as  unfriendly.  In  time,  presents  of  food  and  cast-off 
garments  apparently  became 

CONNECTING  LINKS  OF  KINDNESS 

Between  civilized  and  savage,  and  seemingly  bound  their  common 
interests  closer  together.  The  absence  even  of  grunted  gratitude 
for  favors  received,  excited  no  comment,  and  quickened  no  resent- 
ment. Civilities  and  gratuities  imperceptibly  indicated  the  open- 
ing of  a broader  pathway  to  mutual  confidences  and  concessions 
between  whites  and  Indians,  that  left  no  doubt  of  ultimate  har- 
monious concert  of  action.  Meanwhile, 

“ The  greatest  of  the  angels  of  men — Success” — 

Had  crowned  the  gold  miner’s  efforts  in  unearthing  the  precious 
metal.  This  attracted  a rapidly  increasing  multitude  of  devotees 


24 


IJV  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


to  its  captivating  standard;  and  men  poured  in  from  every  quar- 
ter, to  enlist  under  its  enchanting  banner,  and  in  full  chorus 
to  sing  around  their  camp-fires: — 

“ ’Tis  time  the  pick-axe  and  the  spade, 

Against  the  rocks  were  ringing,  ' 

And  with  ourselves  the  golden  stream 
A song  of  labor  singing; 

The  mountain  sod  our  couch  at  night; 

The  stars  keep  watch  above  us; 

We  think  of  home,  and  fall  asleep — 

To  dream  of  those  who  love  us.” 

The  good  fortune  and  wants  of  the  miner  developed  the 
necessity  for  the  packer  and  trader,  with  their  assistants ; and,  as  a 
sequence,  kept  constantly  swelling  the  army  of  occupation  in  the 
very  haunts  and  homes  of  the  Indian;  and  without  invitation 
divided  with  him  his  hunting  and  fishing  grounds.  Tents  pitched 
and  cabins  erected,  became  sufficient  foundation  for  the  impres- 
sion that  the  new-comers  were  intending  permanently  to  stay. 
There  seems  to  have  been  no  expressed  or  implied  objections  to 
this.  The  Indian  men,  moreover,  had  been  pressed  into  willing 
service  as  miners  and  laborers,  and  the  women  to  laundry  work 
— for  which,  in  many  instances,  they  were  liberally  paid.  All  of 
these  very  naturally  gave  color  to  the  assurance  that  a mutually 
advantageous  community  of  interests  had  sprung  up  that  was  as 
gratifying  as  it  was  profitable.  But  these  eventuall}7  proved  to 
be 

THE  LULL  BEFORE  THE  STORM. 

The  rapid  increase  of  horses,  mules,  and  cattle — as  well  as 
men — presented  visible  evidences  of  accumulating  prosperity  and 
wealth  among  the  whites,  that  were  unshared  by  the  Indian. 
This  soon  bore  the  poisonous  fruit  of  jealousy.  Germs  of  unrest 
and  discontent  quickly  ripened  into  resentment;  and,  with 
stealthy  growth,  hatred  for  the  whites  and  cupidity  for  their  pos- 
sessions began,  irrepressibly,  to  extend  to  every  mountain  tribe 
throughout  the  State,  and  prepare  the  way  for  openly  hostile 
demonstrations.  It  is  however  but 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


25 


AN  ACT  OF  SIMPLE  JUSTICE 

To  the  Indian,  here  to  record — without  in  any  measure  attempt- 
ing to  apologize  for,  or  condone,  his  misdeeds — that  the  spirit  of 
reciprocal  fairness  was  not  an  invariable  characteristic  of  the 
whites,  in  their  dealings  and  conduct  with  the  inferior  race. 
Every  old  Californian  can  bear  blushing  testimony  to  the  truth- 
fulness of  this  too  self-evident  admission.  This  will  be  more 
than  manifest  from  the  official  report  of  Maj.  Gen.  Thomas  J. 
Green,  to  Gov.  Peter  H.  Burnett,  dated  May  25,  1850,*  as  follows: 
“ Heretofore  a few  persons  have  monopolized  much  of  their  labor, 
by  giving  them  a calico  shirt  per  week,  and  the  most  indifferent 
of  food.”  Brig.  Gen.  Thomas  B.  Eastland,  in  his  report  to  his 
excellency  Governor  Burnett,  dated  June  15,  1850,-f*  thus  con- 
tinues: “ It  is  a well-known  fact  that  among  our  white  popula- 
tion there  are  men  who  boast  of  the  number  of  the  Indians  they 
have  killed,  and  that  not  one  shall  escape.”  If,  therefore, 

‘ ‘ In  men  we  various  Ruling  Passions  find, 

And  Ruling  Passion  conquers  Reason  still,” 

No  spirit  of  prophetic  divination  need  be  evoked,  to  foretell  the 
ultimate  results  of  such  aggressive  wrong-doing.  Before  pouring 
unmixed  anathemas,  therefore,  upon  the  Indian’s  head,  will  not  an 
intuitive  sense  of  right  first  prompt  us  to 

“ Find  out  the  cause  of  this  effect; 

Or,  rather  say,  the  cause  of  this  defect; 

For  this  effect  defective  comes  by  cause.  ” 

TELEGRAPHING  BY  FIRE  AND  SMOKE. 

In  the  days  of  their  numerical  prosperity,  moreover,  it  should 
be  remembered  that  the  Indians  thoroughly  understood  and 
practiced  a primitive  method  of  telegraphing  by  fire  and  smoke, 
by  which  the  fitful  flashes  of  the  one,  and  the  gusty  clouds  of 
the  other, | according  to  the  number  or  intensity  of  the  signals 

*See  page  769  of  Journals  of  the  Legislature  of  California,  for  1S51. 

fPage  770,  Ibid. 

JThis  was  done  by  covering  a large  fire  with  a wet  hide,  and  lifting  it  at 
intervals. 


26 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


given,  would  readily  communicate  the  kind  of  trouble  they  were 
in,  and  the  nature  of  the  assistance  they  required.  All  prominent 
peaks,  and  favorable  points  of  bluffs  on  the  margin  of  valleys, 
were  signal  stations;  and  there  was  always  a signal  watcher  on 
duty,  both  by  day  and  by  night.  To  this  was  supplemented  a very 

EFFICIENT  SYSTEM  OF  RUNNERS, 

Composed  of  their  best-trained,  swiftest-footed,  and  strongest- 
lunged  young  men,  who  would  run  at  the  height  of  their  speed 
from  one  village  to  the  other.  These  advantages  naturally  and 
effectively  supplied  speedy  tribal  communication,  and  enabled 
them  not  only  to  discuss  with  each  other  the  social  or  political 
significance  of  such  an  unparalleled  influx  of  strangers  amongst 
them,  but  to  report  every  overt  act  or  aggressive  movement  of 
the  whites,  from  San  Diego  to  Siskiyou. 

ISOLATED  INSTANCES  OF  INDIAN  VIOLENCE 

Had  been  early  reported  from  central  portions  of  the  State,  but 
as  these  had  been  visited  by  swift  retaliation,  the  impetuously 
turbulent  were,  for  the  time  being  at  least,  checked  in  their 
marauding  and  murderous  career.  Meanwhile  the  forces  of  their 
enmity  were  silently  cumulating,  like  a storm  over  an  almost 
cloudless  sky,  in  the  more  southerly  sections  of  California;  event- 
ually to  culminate  and  break  among  the  gold  mines  of  Mariposa 
County — then  very  large,  and  embracing  the  counties  now 
known  as  Mariposa,  Merced,  Fresno,  Tulare,  Mono,  and  Inyo. 

THE  FIRST  OPENLY  HOSTILE  DEMONSTRATION 

Was  led  by  the  Yo  Semites,  in  May,  1850,  when  an  attack  was 
made  upon  the  trading-post  of  Mr.  James  D.  Savage,  located  on 
the  Merced  River,  about  twenty -five  miles  below  the  Yo  Semite 
Valley,  under  the  pretense  of  claiming  all  the  country  in  that 
vicinity ; but  in  reality  in  the  expectation  and  hope  of  plunder. 
By  the  personal  pluck  and  energy  of  Savage,  assisted  by  his 
Indian  miners,  the  attack  was  successfully  repulsed. 

The  isolation  of  that  station,  and  the  known  murderous 


Photo,  by  Geo.  Fiske.  Photo-typo  by  Britton,  & Rey,  S.  F.. 

El  Capitan,  Half  Dome  and  Valley. 


From  Big  Oak  Flat  Road. 


t 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


27 


tendencies  of  the  Yo  Semites,  induced  Savage  to  remove  his  store 
to  Mariposa  Creek,  near  Agua  Fria,  some  six  miles  westerly  of 
the  village,  now  the  prosperous  town  and  county  seat,  of  Mariposa. 
His  unexampled  success  in  this  new  location  tempted  him  to  es- 
tablished a branch  post  on  the  Fresno  River,  which  also  gave 
abundant  promise  of  similar  results.  “ In  the  midst  of  renewed 
prosperity  ” — -says  Dr.  L.  H.  Bunnell,  in  his  interesting  narrative 
of  “The  Discovery  of  the  Yosemite,”  from  which  I shall  fre- 
quently quote  in  introductory  chapters,  and  to  which  I heartily 
refer  the  reader — “he  learned  that 

ANOTHER  CLOUD  WAS  GATHERING. 

“ To  strengthen  his  influence  over  the  principal  tribes,  Savage 
had,  according  to  the  custom  of  many  mountain  men  at  that 
time,  taken  wives  from  among  the  Indians,  supposing  that  his 
personal  safety  would  be  somewhat  improved  by  so  doing.  This 
is  the  old  story  of  the  prosperous  Indian  trader.  One  of  his 
squaws  assured  him  that  a combination  was  maturing  among  the 
mountain  Indians  to  kill  or  drive  all  the  white  men  from  the 
country,  and  plunder  them  of  their  property.”  These  unmistak- 
able evidences  of  threatened  hostilities  suggested  the  adoption  of 
precautionary  measures,  and  preparation  for  warlike  surprises, 
without  exciting  suspicion  or  alarm.  In  the  hope  of  averting 
impending  danger, 

SAVAGE  QUIETLY  PLANNED  A COUP  D’ETAT. 

Having  to  visit  San  Francisco  early  in  the  ensuing  Septem- 
ber (1850)  for  the  purpose  of  securing  a safe  place  of  deposit  for 
his  rapidly  accumulating  quantities  of  gold-dust,  extracted  from 
the  mines  by  himself  and  his  Indian  assistants,  and  received 
through  his  stores,*  and  also  to  purchase  goods,  he  concluded  to 

*The  amount,  as  given  by  reliable  authority,  was  about  six  hundred  pounds, 
Troy.  As  an  illustrative  example  of  one  of  Savage’s  habits,  and  an  additional 
proof  of  the  old  adage,  “Easily  earned — -carelessly  spent,”  after  his  safe  arrival  in 
San  Francisco  with  his  treasure,  he  sought  the  gaming-table,  where  he  became  a 
heavy  loser;  as  though  reckless  of  consequences,  he  jumped  upon  the  card  table, 
and,  standing  upon  a particular  card,  wagered  his  own  weight  in  gold-dust  on  that 
card — and  lost! 


28 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


take  with  him  two  of  his  Indian  wives, and  an  influential  Indian 
chief  named  Jose  Juarez,*  that  by  showing  them  the  overwhelm- 
ing numbers  and  resources  of  the  whites,  he  could  impress  upon 
them,  and  through  them  all  the  unfriendly  disposed,  the  utter 
hopelessness  of  any  bellicose  movements  on  their  part.  This 
skillfully-planned  stratagem,  although  substantially  carried  out 
by  Savage,  was 

NOT  FRUITFUL  IN  RESULTS, 

Inasmuch  as  Jose,  having  been  liberally  supplied  with  money  by 
his  generous  patron,  invested  it  as  liberally  in  “ fire  water;’'  and, 
under  its  influence,  became  either  stupidly  unconscious  or  insult- 
ingly abusive.  Remonstrance  only  stimulated  a more  emphatic 
indulgence  in  that  graceless  vice.  When  forbearance  had  ceased 
to  be  a virtue,  and  the  wanton  gratification  of  insulting  epithets 
had  reached  their  climax,  in  an  unguarded  moment,  Savage  felled 
him  with  a blow.  This  invited,  and  probably  deserved  punish- 
ment, was  a source  of  constant  subsequent  regret;  but,  as 
the  journey  homeward  developed  no  signs  of  any  vengeful  re- 
membrances, it  was  hoped  that  the  unpleasant  incident  had  been 
either  overlooked  or  excused.  Therefore,  nothing  doubting  in 
that,  or  in  the  happy  results  of  Jose’s  visit  to  the  larger  cities,  as 
numerous  Indians  had  collected  around  his  Fresno  store,  seem- 
ingly to  welcome  them  on  their  arrival,  and  to  compare  notes, 
and  learn  or  tell  the  news,  Savage  concluded  this  to  be 

A FITTING  OPPORTUNITY  FOR  A TALK 

About  the  sights  they  had  seen,  with  a view  of  conciliating 
their  prejudices — if  any  still  existed — and  convincing  their  judg- 
ments of  the  relative  advantages  that  would  naturally  arise  from 
a good  understanding  between  the  whites  and  the  Indians.  After 
presenting  the  case  in  a strikingly  terse  and  forcible  manner, 
Savage  called  upon  Jose  to  bear  testimony  to  the  truthfulness  of 
his  explanations,  and  the  undoubted  strength  of  his  arguments. 
To  his  surprise,  however,  “ The  cunning  chief’  with  much  dignity” 

*A  name  probably  given  him  at  one  of  the  old  missions. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


29 


— I again  quote  from  Doctor  Bunnell — “ deliberatively  stepped 
forward,  with  more  assurance  than  he  had  shown  since  the  bellig- 
erent  occurrence  at  San  Francisco,  and  spoke  with  more  energy 
than  Savage  had  anticipated,  as  follows : — 

JOSE  JUAREZ,  THE  INDIAN  CHIEF,  MAKES  A SPEECH. 

“ 4 Our  brother  has  told  his  Indian  relatives  much  that  is  true ; 
we  have  seen  many  people;  the  white  men  are  very  numerous; 
but  the  white  men  we  saw  are  of  many  tribes;  they  are  not  like 
the  tribe  that  digs  gold  in  the  mountains.  They  will  not  help 
the  gold-diggers,  if  the  Indians  make  war  against  them.  If  the 
gold-diggers  go  to  the  white  tribes  in  the  big  village  they  give 
their  gold  for  strong  water,  and  games;  when  they  have  no  more 
gold  the  white  tribes  drive  the  gold-diggers  back  to  the  moun- 
tains with  clubs.  They  strike  them  down  ’ (referring  to  the  police) 
‘as  your  white  relative  struck  me  when  I was  with  him.’  (His 
vindicative  glance  assured  Savage  that  the  blow  was  not  forgot- 
ten  or  forgiven.)  ‘ The  white  tribes  will  not  go  to  war  with  the 
Indians  in  the  mountains.  They  cannot  bring  their  big  ships 
and  big  guns  to  us;  we  have  no  cause  to  fear  them.  They  will 
not  injure  us.’  ” 

This  was  followed  by  a glowingly  humorous  and  sarcastic 
picture  of  the  pale  faces,  their  tall  hats,  walking  canes,  eye- 
glasses, fancy  clothes,  and  other  supposed  frivolous  articles  of  the 
toilet;  and  the  manners  and  customs  of  white  people  in  large 
cities  were  so  grotesquely  mimicked  that  he  frequently  convulsed 
his  Indian  auditors  with  laughter,  broken  occasionally  with  gut- 
tural utterances  of  contempt. 

No  replying  arguments  of  Savage,  filled  to  overflowing  as 
they  were  with  kindness  and  common  sense,  could  counteract  the 
magical  effects  of  such  a speech.  But,  fearing  that  they  might, 
Jose  again  stepped  forward,  and 

BREATHING  DEFIANCE,  EXCITEDLY  INTERRUPTED  SAVAGE 
By  exclaiming,*  “ He  is  telling  you  words  that  are  not  true. 


Dr.  L.  H.  Bunnell. 


30 


EV  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


His  tongue  is  forked  and  crooked.  He  is  telling  lies  to  his  Indian 
relatives.  This  trader  is  not  a friend  to  the  Indians.  He  is  not 
our  brother.  He  will  help  the  white  gold-diggers  to  drive  the 
Indians  from  their  country.  We  can  now  drive  them  from 
among  us;  and  if  the  other  white  tribes  should  come  to  their  help, 
we  will  go  to  the  mountains;  if  they  follow  us  they  cannot  find 
us;  none  of  them  will  come  back;  we  will  kill  them  with  arrows- 
and  with  rocks.’  ” These  war-like  utterances  of  Jose  Juarez 
were  warmly  seconded  by 

JOSE  REY,  THE  LEADING  CHIEF  OF  THE  CHOW-CHILLAS, 

In  the  following  speech,  also  reported  by  Dr.  Bunnell:  “ My  people 
are  now  ready  to  begin  a war  against  the  white  gold-diggers. 

If  all  the  tribes  will  be  as  one  tribe,  and  join  with  us,  we  will 
drive  all  the  white  men  from  our  mountains.  If  all  the  tribes 
will  go  together,  the  white  men  will  run  from  us,  and  leave  their 
property  behind  them.  The  tribes  who  join  in  with  my  people 
will  be  the  first  to  secure  the  property  of  the  gold-diggers.” 

“ The  dignified  and  eloquent  style  of  Jose  Bey,”  continues  - 
Dr.  Bunnell,  “controlled  the  attention  of  the  Indians.  This 
appeal  to  their  cupidity  interested  them;  a common  desire  for 
plunder  would  be  the  strongest  inducements  to  unite  against  the 
whites.  Savage  was  now  fully  aware  that  he  had  been  defeated 
at  the  impromptu  council  he  had  himself  organized,  and  at  once 
withdrew  to  prepare  for  the  hostilities  he  was  sure  would  follow. 
As  soon  as  the  Indians  dispersed,  he  started  with  his  squaws  for 
home,  and  again  gave  the  settlers  warning  of  what  was  threat- 
ened, and  would  soon  be  attempted. 

“ These  occurrences  were  narrated  to  me  by  Savage.  The 
incidents  of  the  council  at  the  Fresno  Station  were  given  during 
the  familiar  conversations  of  our  intimate  acquaintanceship.  The 
Indian  speeches  here  quoted  are,  like  all  others  of  their  kind, 
really  but  poor  imitations.  The  Indian  is  very  figurative  in  his 
language.  If  a literal  translation  were  attempted,  his  speeches 
would  seem  so  disjointed  and  inverted  in  their  methods  of 
expression  that  their  signification  could  scarcely  be  understood; 
hence  only  the  substance  is  here  given.” 


THE*  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


31 


UNHEEDED  WARNINGS. 

It  would  seem  that,  notwithstanding  the  warnings  given,  the 
miner  s and  settlers  were  unwilling  to  concede  that  an  Indian  war 
was  possible,  even  with  such  conclusive  evidence 

“To  mark  the  signs  of  coming  mischief,” 

As  they  were  deemed  as  absurd  as  they  were  improbable.  Even 
Cassady,  a rival  trader  to  Savage,  “ especially  scoffed  at  the  idea 
of  clanger,  and  took  no  precautions  to  guard  himself  or  his 
establishment  ” — and  was  afterwards  among  the  first  murdered. 

In  their  minds  there  evidently  lingered  a doubt,  and  perhaps 
with  it  a mental  questioning  whether  or  not 

“The  chance  of  war  * 

Is  equal,  and  the  slayer  oft  is  slain,” 

As  active  hostilities  did  not  actually  commence  until  the  middle 
of  December  following.  This  will  be  apparent  from  an  official 
letter  by  Col.  Adam  Johnston,  sub.  Indian  Agent  of  the  United 
States,  under  Gen.  John  Wilson,  and  addressed  to  His  Excel- 
lency, Peter  H.  Burnett,  then  Governor  of  California;  and  as  it 
is  not  only  an  interesting  narrative,  but  lucidly  explanatory,  it  is 
here  transcribed. 


COL.  ADAM  JOHNSTON’S  LETTER. 

San  Jose,  January  2,  1851.* 

Sir:  I have  the  honor  to  submit  to  you,  as  the  Executive  of  the  State 
of  California,  some  facts  connected  with  the  recent  depredations  committed 
by  the  Indians,  within  the  bounds  of  the  State,  upon  the  persons  and  prop- 
erty of  her  citizens.  The  immediate  scenes  of  their  hostile  movements 
are  at  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Mariposa  and  Fresno.  The  Indians  in 
that  portion  of  your  State  have,  for  some  time  past,  exhibited  disaffection 
and  a restless  feeling  toward  the  whites.  Thefts  were  continually  being 
perpetrated  by  them,  but  no  act  of  hostility  had  been  committed  by  them 
on  the  person  of  any  individual,  which  indicated  general  enmity  on  the 
part  of  the  Indians,  until  the  night  of  the  17  December  last.  I was  then  at 
the  camp  of  Mr.  James  D.  Savage,  on  the  Mariposa,  where  I had  gone  for 
the  purpose  of  reconciling  any  difficulty  that  might  exist  between  the 

*See  Journals  of  the  Legislature  of  California  for  1851,  page  563. 


32 


IN  TEE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


Indians  and  the  whites  in  that  vicinity.  From  various  conversations  which 
I had  held  with  different  chiefs,  I concluded  there  was  no  immediate  dan- 
ger to  be  apprehended.  On  the  evening  of  the  17th  of  December,  we  were, 
however,  surprised  by  the  sudden  disappearance  of  the  Indians.  They  left 
in  a body,  but  no  one  knew  why,  or  where  they  had  gone.  From  the  fact 
that  Mr.  Savage’s  domestic  Indians  had  forsaken  him  and  gone  with  those 
of  the  rancheria,  or  village,  he  immediately  suspected  that  something  of 
a serious  nature  was  in  contemplation,  or  had  already  been  committed  by 
them. 

The  manner  of  their  leaving,  in  the  night,  and  by  stealth,  induced 
Mr.  Savage  to  believe  that  whatever  act  they  had  committed  or  intended 
to  commit,  might  be  connected  with  himself.  Believing  that  he  could 
overhaul  his  Indians  before  others  could  join  them,  and  defeat  any  con- 
templated depredation  on  their  part,  he,  with  sixteen  men,  started  in 
pursuit.  He  continued  upon  their  traces  for  about  thirty  miles,  when  he 
came  upon  their  encampment.  The  Indians  had  discovered  his  approach 
and  fled  to  an  adjacent  mountain,  leaving  behind  them  two  small  boys 
asleep,  and  the  remains  of  an  aged  female,  who  had  died,  no  doubt  from 
fatigue.  Near  to  the  encampment  Mr.  Savage  ascended  a mountain  in 
pursuit  of  the  Indians,  from  which  he  discovered  them  upon  another 
mountain  at  some  distance.  From  these  two  mountain  tops,  conversation 
was  commenced  and  kept  up  for  some  time  between  Mr.  Savage  and  the 
chief,  who  told  him  they  had  murdered  the  men  on  the  Fresno,  and  robbed 
the  camp.  The  chief  had  formerly  been  on  the  most  friendly  terms  with 
Savage,  but  would  not  now  permit  him  to  approach  him.  Savage  said  to 
them  it  would  be  better  for  them  to  return  to  their  villages — that  with 
very  little  labor  daily  they  could  procure  sufficient  gold  to  purchase  them 
clothing  and  food.  To  this  the  chief  replied  it  was  a hard  way  to  get  a 
living,  and  that  they  could  more  easily  supply  their  wants  by  stealing 
from  the  whites.  He  also  said  to  Savage  he  must  not  deceive  the  whites 
by  telling  them  lies,  he  must  not  tell  them  that  the  Indians  were  friendly, 
they  were  not,  but  on  the  contrary  were  their  deadly  enemies,  and  that 
they  intended  killing  and  plundering  them  so  long  as  a white  face  was 
seen  in  the  country.  Finding  all  efforts  to  induce  them  to  return,  or  to 
otherwise  reach  them,  had  failed,  Mr.  Savage  and  his  company  concluded 
to  return.  When  about  leaving,  they  discovered  a body  of  Indians,  num- 
bering about  two  hundred,  on  a distant  mountain,  who  seemed  to  be 
approaching  those  with  whom  he  had  been  talking. 

Mr.  Savage  and  company  arrived  at  his  camp  in  the  night  of  Thursday, 
in  safety.  In  the  meantime  as  news  had  reached  us  of  murders  com- 
mitted on  the  Fresno,  we  had  determined  to  proceed  to  the  Fresno,  where 
the  men  had  been  murdered.  Accordingly,  on  the  day  following,  Friday, 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


33 


the  20th,  I left  the  Mariposa  camp,  with  thirty-five  men,  for  the  camp  on 
the  Fresno,  to  see  the  situation  of  things  there,  and  to  bury  the  dead.  I 
also  dispatched  couriers  to  Agua  Fria,  Mariposa,  and  several  other  mining 
sections,  hoping  to  concentrate  a sufficient  force  on  the  Fresno  to  pursue 
the  Indians  into  the  mountains.  Several  small  companies  of  men  left 
their  respective  places  of  residence  to  join  us,  but  being  unacquainted  with 
the  country,  they  were  unable  to  meet  us.  We  reached  the  camp  on  the 
Fresno  a short  time  after  daylight.  It  presented  a horrid  scene  of  savage 
cruelty.  The  Indians  had  destroyed  everything  they  could  not  use,  or 
carry  with  them.  The  store  was  stripped  of  blankets,  clothing,  flour,  and 
everything  of  value;  the  safe  was  broken  open  and  rifled  of  its  contents; 
the  cattle,  horses,  and  mules  had  been  run  into  the  mountains;,  the  mur- 
dered men  had  been  stripped  of  their  clothing,  and  lay  before  us  filled 
with  arrows;  one  of  them  had  yet  twenty  perfect  arrows  sticking  in  him. 
A grave  was  prepared,  and  the  unfortunate  persons  interred.  Our  force 
being  small,  we  thought  it  not  prudent  to  pursue  the  Indians  further  into 
the  mountains,  and  determined  to  return.  The  Indians  in  that  part  of 
the  country  are  quite  numerous,  and  have  been  uniting  other  tribes  with 
them  for  some  time.  On  reaching  our  camp  on  the  Mariposa,  we  learned 
that  most  of  the  Indians  in  the  valley  had  left  their  villages  and  taken 
their  women  and  children  to  the  mountains.  This  is  generally  looked 
upon  as  a sure  indication  of  their  hostile  intentions.  It  is  feared  that 
many  of  the  miners  in  the  more  remote  regions  have  already  been  cut  off, 
and  Agua  Fria  and  Mariposa  are  hourly  threatened. 

Under  this  state  of  things,  I come  here  at  the  earnest  solicitations  of 
the  people  of  that  region,  to  ask  such  aid  from  the  State  Government  as 
will  enable  them  to  protect  their  persons  and  property. 

I submit  these  facts  for  your  consideration,  and  have  the  honor  to 
remain.  Yours  very  respectfully, 

To  His  Excellency , Adam  Johnston. 

Peter  H.  Burnett. 

SAD  EXPERIENCES  AT  SAVAGE’S  FRESNO  STORE. 

Upon  the  morning  above  mentioned  in  Colonel  Johnston’s 
letter,  according  to  the  testimony  of  Mr.  Brown,  the  only  survivor 
of  the  massacre,  straggling  groups  of  Indians,  unattended  by 
women  and  children,  contrary  to  usual  custom  when  on  a peaceful 
mission,  commenced  wending  their  way,  saunteringly,  from  different 
directions,  towards  Savage’s  store  upon  the  Fresno.  They  entered 
it  in  their  ordinary  listless  manner,  as  though  for  purposes  of 


34 


IX  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


trade ; but,  when  within  it,  by  some  evidently  preconcerted  plan 
of  attack,  they  sprang  simultaneously  forward,  and  with  hatchets, 
axes,  crow-bars,  and  bows  and  arrows,  first  murdered  Mr.  Greeley, 
who  was  in  charge  of  the  store;  then,  turning  upon  the  three 
other  white  men  there  present,  named  Canada,  StifFner,  and 
Brown,  killed  all  except  the  latter,  whose  life  was  saved  by  an 
Indian  named  Polonio,*  to  whom  Brown  had  shown  favors,  jump- 
ing in  between  him  and  the  attacking  party,  at  the  risk  of  his 
own  personal  safety,  thus  affording  Brown  the  chance  of  escape, 
of  which  he  confesses  to  have  made  the  best  use,  by  running  all 
the  way  to  Quartzburg  at  the  top  of  his  speed.  Thereafter  horses, 
mules,  and  cattle  belonging  to  the  whites,  began  to  disappear, 
cabins  were  broken  open  and  despoiled  in  the  absence  of  their 
owners;  solitary  prospectors  were  waylaid,  robbed,  and  murdered; 
isolated  settlers,  and  seciuded  miners  delving  in  some  far  off  and 
shadowy  canon,  unsuspicious  of  active  race  antagonisms,  were 
sought  out,  overpowered,  and  slaughtered  in  cold  blood.  The  per- 
petrators of  these  satanic  crimes,  going  undetected  and  unpun- 
ished, for  a time  reveled  in  a frenzy  of  diabolical  excesses. 

^savage’s  other  store  pillaged  and  destroyed. 

Simultaneously  with  these  outrages,  Savage’s  other  store  and 
residence  on  the  Mariposa,  after  the  sudden  disappearance  of  the 
resident  Indians,  as  given  in  Colonel  Johnston’s  letter,  were 
attacked,  during  the  absence  of  the  proprietor,  and  everything 
stolen.  Similar  onslaughts  having  been  made  at  various  points 
on  the  Merced,  San  Joaquin,  Fresno,  and  Chow-chilla  Rivers,  it 
became  too  painfully  evident  that  a general  Indian  war  was 
being  forced  upon  the  whites. 

MAJOR  BURNEY  AND  JAMES  D.  SAVAGE  RAISE  A COMPANY. 

In  this  emergency  Maj.  James  Burney,  Sheriff  of  Mariposa 
County,  and  Mr.  James  I).  Savage,  the  trader,  with  other  prom- 
inent citizens,  immediately  commenced  to  raise  a company  of 
volunteers,  and  at  once  led  it  into  active  and  efficient  service. 

*So  christened  by  the  whites  probably  from  some  peculiar  characteristic  of  his. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


35 


As  experiences  of  this  courageous  little  band  are  graphically  told  by 
Major  Burney,  in  a letter  to  His  Excellency,  John  McDougal, 
Governor  of  the  State,  and  emphatically  certified  to  and  indorsed 
by  Hon.  J.  M.  Bondurant,  County  Judge,  and  Richard  H.  Daly, 
County  Attorney,  no  apology  will  be  necessary  for  introducing  it 
entire,  from  the  Legislative  Journals  of  California  for  1851. 

MAJOR  BURNEY’S  LETTER  TO  GOVERNOR  McDOUGAL. 

Agua  Fria,  January  13,  1851. 

Sir:  Your  Excellency  has  doubtlessly  been  informed  by  Mr.  John- 
ston,* and  others,  of  repeated  and  aggravated  depredations  of  the  Indians 
in  this  part  of  the  State.  Their  more  recent  outrages  you  are  probably 
not  aware  of.  Since  the  departure  of  Mr.  Johnston,  the  Indian  Agent, 
they  have  killed  a portion  of  the  citizens  on  the  head  of  the  San  Joaquin 
River,  driven  the  balance  off,  taken  away  all  the  movable  property,  and 
■destroyed  all  they  could  not  take  away.  They  have  invariably  murdered 
and  robbed  all  the  small  parties  they  fell  in  with  between  here  and  the 
San  Joaquin.  News  came  here  last  night  that  seventy-two  men  were 
killed  on  Rattlesnake  Creek;  several  men  have  been  killed  in  Bear  Valley. 
The  Fine  Gold  Gulch  has  been  deserted,  and  the  men  came  in  here  yes- 
terday. Nearly  all  the  mules  and  horses  in  this  part  of  the  State  have 
been  stolen,  both  from  the  mines  and  the  ranches.  And  1 now  in  the  name 
of  the  people  of  this  part  of  the  State,  and  for  the  good  of  our  country, 
appeal  to  Your  Excellency  for  assistance. 

In  order  to  show  Your  Excellency  that  the  people  have  done  all  that 
they  can  do  to  suppress  these  things,  to  secure  quiet  and  safety  in  the 
possession  of  our  property  and  lives,  I will  make  a brief  statement  of  what 
jhas  been  done  here: — 

After  the  massacres  on  the  Fresno,  San  Joaquin,  etc.,  we  endeavored 
to  raise  a volunteer  company  to  drive  the  Indians  back,  if  not  to  take 
them  or  force  them  into  measures.  The  different  squads  from  the  various 
places  rendezvoused  not  far  from  this  place  on  Monday,  6th  [December, 
1850],  and  numbered  but  seventy-four  men. . A company  was  formed, 
and  I was  elected  Captain;  J.  W.  Riley,  First  Lieutenant;  E.  Skeane, 
.Second  Lieutenant.  We  had  but  eight  days’  provisions,  and  not  enough 
animals  to  pack  our  provisions  and  blankets,  as  it  should  have  been  done. 
We,  however,  marched,  and  on  the  following  day  struck  a large  trail  of 
horses  that  had  been  stolen  by  the  Indians.!  I sent  forward  James  D. 

*Col.  Adam  Johnston. 

tin  a subsequent  letter  of  Major  Burney,  addressed  to  the  Hon.  W.  J.  How- 
ard occurs  the  following  passage: — 


36 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


Savage,  with  a small  spy  force,  and  I followed  the  trail  with  company. 
About  two  o’clock  in  the  morning,  Savage  came  in  and  reported  the 
village  near,  as  he  had  heard  the  Indians  singing.  Here  I halted,  left  a 
small  guard  with  my  animals,  and  went  forward  with  the  balance  of  my 
men.  We  reached  the  village  just  before  day,  and  at  dawn,  but  before 
there  was  light  enough  to  see  how  to  fire  our  rifles  with  accuracy,  we  were 
discovered  by  their  sentinel.  When  I saw  that  he  had  seen  us,  I ordered 
a charge  on  the  village  (this  had  been  reconnoitered  by  Savage  and  myself). 
The  Indian  sentinel  and  my  company  got  to  the  village  at  the  same  time, 
he  yelling  to  give  the  alarm.  I ordered  them  to  surrender;  some  of  them 
ran  off,  some  seemed  disposed  to  surrender,  but  others  fired  on  us;  we  fired, 
and  charged  into  the  village.  Their  ground  had  been  selected  on  account 
of  the  advantages  it  possessed  in  their  mode  of  warfare.  They  num- 
bered about  400,  and  fought  us  three  hours  and  a half.  We  killed  from 
40  to  50,  but  cannot  tell  exactly  how  many,  as  they  took  off  all  they 
could  get  to.  Twenty-six  were  killed  in  and  around  the  village,  and 
a number  of  others  in  the  chaparral.  We  burned  the  village  and 
provisions,  and  took  four  horses.  Our  loss  was  six  wounded,  two  mor- 
tally; one  of  the  latter  was  Lieutenant  Skeane,  the  other  a Mr.  Little, 
whose  bravery  and  conduct  through  the  battle  cannot  be  spoken  of  too 
highly. 

We  made  litters,  on  which  we  conveyed  our  wounded,  and  had  to 
march  four  miles  down  the  mountain,  to  a suitable  place  to  camp,  the 
Indians  firing  at  us  all  the  way,  from  the  peaks  on  either  side,  but  so  far 
off  as  to  do  little  damage.  My  men  had  been  marching  or  fighting  from 
the  morning  of  the  day  before,  without  sleep,  and  with  but  little  to  eat. 
On  the  plain,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  we  made  a rude,  but  substantial 
fortification;  and  at  a late  hour  those  who  were  not  on  guard  were  per- 
mitted to  sleep.  Our  sentinels  were  (as  I anticipated  they  would  be) 
firing  at  the  Indians  occasionally  all  night,  but  I had  ordered  them  not  to 
come  in  until  they  were  driven  in. 

I left  my  wounded  men  there,  with  enough  of  my  company  to  defend 
the  little  fort,  and  returned  to  this  place  for  provisions  and  recruits.  I send 
them  to-day  reinforcements  and  provisions,  and  in  two  days  more  I march 
by  another  route,  with  another  reinforcement,  and  intend  to  attack 
another  village  before  going  to  the  fort.  The  Indians  are  watching  the 

“The  first  night  out  you  came  into  my  camp  and  reported  that  the  Indians  had 
stolen  all  your  horses  and  mules — a very  large  number— that  you  had  followed 
their  trail  into  the  hill  country,  but,  deeming  it  imprudent  to  go  there  alone,  had 
turned  northward,  hoping  to  strike  my  trail,  having  heard  that  I had  gone  out 
after  Indians.  I immediately,  at  sunset,  sent  ten  men  (yourself  among  the  num- 
ber) under  Lieutenant  Skeane— who  was  killed  in  the  fight  next  day — to  look  out 
for  the  trail,  and  report,  which  wTas  very  promptly  carried  out. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


37 


movements  at  the  fort,  and  I can  come  up  in  the  rear  of  them  unsuspect- 
edly,  and  we  can  keep  them  back  until  I can  hear  from  Your  Excellency, 
If  Your  Excellency  thinks  proper  to  authorize  me  or  any  other  person 
to  keep  this  company  together,  we  can  force  them  into  measures  in  a short 
time.  But  if  not  authorized  and  commissioned  to  do  so,  and  furnished 
with  some  arms  and  provisions,  or  the  means  to  buy  them,  and  pay  for  the 
services  of  the  men,  my  company  must  be  disbanded,  as  they  are  not 
able  to  lose  so  much  time  without  any  compensation. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

James  Burney. 

THE  FIRST  CONFLICT  ALMOST  A DEFEAT. 

This  battle  took  place  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  F resno ; and 
notwithstanding  the  measurable  success  of  this  hastily  planned 
and  impetuous  attack,  there  is  reason  to  fear  that,  owing  to 
the  absence  of  efficient  discipline  and  drill,  in  so  rapidly  mustered 
a company  of  volunteers,  but  for  the  dauntless  pluck  and  daring 
of  this  heroic  band,  it  would  have  been  a defeat.  Nothing  but 
reckless  personal  exposure,  and  hand-to-hand  conflict,  eventually 
brought  a partial  victory.  After  the  conflict  they  were"  abun- 
dantly willing  to  retire  to  camp  for  rest,  council,  reorganization, 
and  future  discipline;  and  the  experience  gained  proved  to  be  of 
inestimable  value  in  the  future  conduct  of  the  war. 

GOVERNOR  MCDOUGAL’S  PROMPT  RESPONSE. 

From  apparently  sympathetic  anticipation  of  the  sentiments 
and  wants  expressed  in  Major  Burney’s  manly  letter,  His  Excel- 
lency, Governor  McDougal  (having  through  Col.  Adam  Johnston’s 
official  communication,  and  other  sources,  already  received  infor- 
mation of  the  struggle  progressing  in  Mariposa  County)  had  issued 
an  order — by  a singular  coincidence  bearing  exactly  the  same  date, 
January  13,  1851,*  as  Major  Burney’s  letter — authorizing  the 
Sheriff  of  Mariposa  County  to  call  out  one  hundred  able-bodied 
militia,  with  which  to  meet  the  pressing  exigencies  of  the  times, 
and  teach  the  Indians  that,  while  the  whites  could  be  considerate 
of  their  interests  in  times  of  peace,  they  were  prepared  at  all 


*See  Journals  of  the  Legislature  of  California  for  1851,  page  GOO. 


38 


IX  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


hazards  to  assert  and  maintain  their  rights  the  moment  that  war 
was  forced  upon  them. 

To  this  prompt  and  considerate  action  was  supplemented  an 
appealing  message  from  Governor  McDougal  to  the  State  Legisla- 
ture, then  in  session,  calling  upon  it  for  means  to  meet  such  press- 
ing emergencies;  a communication  addressed  to  the  Indian  Com- 
missioners, appointed  by  the  General  Government  for  co-operation ; 
and  to  Gen.  Persifer  F.  Smith,  commanding  Pacific  Division  of 
the  United  States  Army,  informing  him  of  the  Indian  disturbances, 
of  his  official  orders  calling  out  two  hundred  able-bodied  militia, 
and  asking  him  what  aid  might  be  expected  from  his  department, 
the  number  of  effective  troops  to  be  relied  on,  whether  there  could 
be  furnished  arms  and  ammunition  to  volunteers,  and  if  so  the 
character  and  number  of  arms  and  ammunition,  and  concluding 
with  the  question,  “ Will  you  deem  it  advisable  to  co-operate  in  the 
present  emergency?  ”* 

Without  awaiting  a reply  from  Gen.  P.  F.  Smith,  such  was 
the  anxiety  of  the  Governor  lest  any  omission  on  his  part  should 
cause  an  unnecessary  sacrifice  of  human  life  and  property,  he  dis- 
patched Col.  J.  Neely  Johnson,  an  officer  of  his  staff*  to  the  United 
States  Indian  Commissioners,  Messrs.  Wozencraft,  McKee,  and 
Barbour,  with  offers  of  safe-conduct  to  the  scene  of  the  disturb- 
ances, accompanied  with  the  assurance  that  “ Colonel  Johnson 
will  afford  you  every  facility  in  his  power  to  co-operate  with  you 
in  all  measures  necessary  to  insure  a return  of  those  friendly 
feelings  which  are  so  desirable  to  us,  and  so  essential  to  the  happi- 
ness of  both  whites  and  Indians.”  Too  much  commendation  of 
Governor  McDougal’s  praiseworthy  and  intelligent  assiduity  can- 
not well  be  accorded  him,  not  only  for  his  unwearying  watchful- 
ness, but  for  providing  the  “sinews  of  war,”  as  well  as  for  his 
continuous  efforts  to  establish  an  early  and  enduring  peace. 

The  Governor’s  offer  was  cordially  accepted  by  the  United 

*To  this  inquiry  there  seems  to  have  been  no  response  published — at  least 
none  can  be  found  by  the  writer.  It  is  however  matter  of  record  that  the  State 
assumed  the  responsibility  for  the  disbursements  of  this  war,  but  the  expenses 
were  afterwards  allowed  by  the  United  States  Government. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


39 


States  Indian  Commissioners,  who,  under  the  escort  of  Col.  J. 
Neely  Johnson  and  a small  body  of  State  troops,  as  related  else- 
where, set  out  on  their  peaceful  mission  as  soon  as  possible,  after 
securing  the  services  of  some  friendly  mission  Indians,  as  inter- 
preters and  messengers,  and  the  providing  of  suitable  presents  and 
supplies.  While  they  are  repairing  thither,  let  us  return,  at  least 
in  imagination,  to  the  camp  of  the  volunteers. 

In  the  interim  of  Major  Burney’s  absence  at  the  settlements, 
for  munitions  and  reenforcements,  no  time  was  lost  by  the  little 
corps  remaining  at  their  post  among  the  Indians,  in  drilling, 
reorganizing,  and  otherwise  preparing  for  future  contact  with 
the  foe.  Growing  tired,  however,  of  the  commonplace  inactivities 
of  camp  life,  and  longing  for  the  excitements  attendant  on  an 
encounter  with  the  enemy,  but  a few  restful  days  were  allowed 
to  pass  before  they  were  again  upon  the  march. 

The  Indian  trail  was  soon  struck,  and  upon  the  top  of  a 
rugged  knoll,  near  the  north  fork  of  the  San  Joaquin  River,  sur- 
rounded by  a dense  undergrowth  of  shrubbery,  among  rocks  and 
trees,,  they  found  the  adversary  in  force,  apparently  numbering 
about  five  hundred.  Defiant  taunts  of  their  late  defeat,  intermixed 
with  sneering  accusations  of  cowardice,  were  menacingly  hurled 
at  the  whites ; and  the  Indians  even  boasted  of  their  robberies  and 
murders,  and  challenged  Savage,,  who  was  then  in  command,  to 
come  up  and  fight  them.  But  as  it  was  late  in  the  day  when  the 
Indians  were  discovered,  and  feeling,  with  Shakespeare,  that 

“ The  better  part  of  valor  is  discretion,” 

Instead  of  commencing  an  immediate  attack,  a careful  reconnois- 
sance  was  made  before  nightfall,  and  the  assault  postponed. 

Almost  before  morning  light  revealed  the  position  of  their 
antagonists,  thirty-six  men  were  detached  for  preliminary  opera- 
tions, under  Captain  Kuykendall,  to  be  followed  by  the  reserves, 
under  Major  Savage  and  Captain  Boling — and  fortunately  the 
Indian  camp  was  reached  by  Kuykendall’s  command  without  dis- 
covery. Dashing  into  their  midst,  and  seizing  lighted  brands 
from  their  own  camp-fires,  the  wigwams  were  set  on  fire,  and,  by 


40 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


their  light,  they  attacked  the  now  alarmed  camp.  So  rapidly  # 
and  so  bravely  were  the  charges  made  that  the  panic-stricken 
warriors  fled  precipitately  from  their  stronghold.  “Jose  Key  was 
among  the  first  shot  down/’  says  Dr.  Bunnell.  “ The  Indians 
made  a rally  to  recover  their  leader ; Lieutenant  Chandler,  observ- 
ing them,  shouted,  ‘ Charge,  boys ! Charge ! ! ’ when  the  men  rushed 
forward,  and  the  savages  turned  and  fled  down  the  mountain, 
answering  back  the  shout  of  Chandler  to  charge  by  replying, 

4 Chargee ! Chargee !’  as  they  disappeared.  The  whole  camp  was 
routed,  and  sought  safety  among  the  rocks  and  brush,  and  by 
flight.  This  was  an  unexpected  result.  The  whole  transaction 
had  been  so  quickly  and  recklessly  done  that  the  reserves  under 
Boling  and  Savage  had  no  opportunity  of  participating  in  the 
assault,  and  but  imperfectly  witnessed  the  scattering  of  the  terrified 
warriors.  Kuykendall,  especially,  displayed  a coolness  and  valor 
entitling  him  to  command — though  outrun  by  Chandler  in  the 
assault.  The  fire  from  the  burning  village  spread  so  rapidly  down 
the  mountain  side  towards  our  camp  as  to  endanger  its  safety. 
While  the  whites  were  saving  their  camp  supplies,  the  Indians, 
under  cover  of  the  smoke,  escaped.  No  prisoners  were  taken; 
twenty-three  were  killed ; the  number  wounded  was  never  known. 
Of  the  settlers  but  one  was  really  wounded,  though  several  were 
scorched  and  bruised  in  the  fight.  None  were  killed.  The  scatter- 
ing flight  of  the  Indians  made  further  pursuit  uncertain.  Sup- 
plies being  too  limited  for  an  extended  chase,  as  none  had  reached 
the  little  army  from  those  who  had  returned,  and  time  would  be 
lost  in  waiting,  it  was  decided  to  go  back  to  the  settlements  before 
taking  further  active  measures.  The  return  was  accomplished 
without  interruption.” 

Their  safe  arrival  home  again  was  the  spontaneous  signal  for 
a general  jubilee,  intensified  by  the  cheering  intelligence  of  the  com- 
plete victory  won  over  the  savages ; and  augmented,  on  the  fol- 
lowing day,  by  the  welcome  tidings  that  the  Governor’s  authority 
had  arrived  to  organize  and  equip  a volunteer  force  against  the 
enemy. 


CHAPTER  III. 

HOW  AND  WHEN  DISCOVERED. 

Ill  news  is  winged  with  fate,  and  flies  apace. 


— Dryden. 


Over  all  things  brooding  slept 
The  quiet  sense  of  something  lost. 

—Tennyson’s  In  Memoriam. 


Peace  hath  higher  tests  of  manhood 


Than  battle  ever  knew. 


— Whittier’s 


The  Hero. 


Intelligence  of  the  utter  discomfiture  of  so  large  a force  of 
their  best  warriors  and  ablest  chiefs,  by  “a  mere  handful”  of 
white  men,  flew  with  inexpressible  rapidity  to  all  the  disaffected 
Indians ; and,  with  the  news,  carried  dismay  and  sadness  to  many 
hearts ; not,  however,  to  accelerate  their  conversion  to  honest  traits, 
or  peaceful  paths.  Memories  of  the  rich  harvests  of  booty  and  of 
pillage,  so  recently  gathered  through  spoliation  and  carnage,  still 
held  them  in  irresistible  bondage.  Wrong-doing,  therefore,  to 

O O O 7 7 

them  was  only  a question  of  convenience  and  opportunity.  It  is 
true  their  recent  and  terrible  disasters  became  forcibly  suggestive 
of  others  still  in  reserve,  should  they  defiantly  persist  in  repeating 
their  marauding  and  murderous  exploits.  The  temporary  with- 
drawal of  the  whites  from  further  present  pursuit,  while  it  gave 
the  Indians  favorable  opportunity  for  binding  up  their  wounds, 
and  for  recuperating  their  wasted  energies  and  lost  courage,  also 
supplied  them  with  leisure  to  brood  over  their  losses,  and  to  weigh 
the  contingent  results,  to  themselves,  of  their  flagitious  courses. 
Leaving  them,  therefore,  to  their  self -criminating  reflections,  it 
may  not  be  inopportune,  at  this  juncture,  to  recur  to  the  protective 
measures  in  active  preparation  at  the  settlements. 

While  the  volunteers  were  enjoying  the  sweet  repose  that 

(41) 


42 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


generally  follows  successful  physical  ancl  mental  labor,  and  in 
their  case  its  attendant  convivialities,  a new  excitement  made  its 
advent  among  them,  and  came  almost  like  an  inspiration  or  rev- 
elation; it  was  an  order  from  His  Excellency,  Gov.- John  Mc- 
DougaJ,  bearing  date  January  13,  1851,  to  Maj.  James  Burney, 
Sheriff  of  Mariposa  County,  to  enlist  one  hundred  men,  which, 
by  a subsequent  order  of  January  24,  1851,  was  increased  to 

A CALL  FOR  TWO  HUNDRED  ABLE-BODIED  MILITIA, 

“ And  to  organize  them  at  the  earliest  practicable  moment  into 
independent  companies,  not  to  exceed  four;  and,  under  officers  of 
their  own  selection,  to  proceed  at  once  to  punish  the  offending 
tribes.”*  This  inspiriting  mandate  was  not  only  a recognition 
and  indorsement  of  the  past,  but  an  encouraging  augury  for  the 
future,  to  those  who  had  so  recently  borne  the  brunt  of  victorious 
battle  with  the  foe;  and  became  a strong  incentive  for  their 
immediate  re-enlistment.  And  it  is  but  an  act  of  well-merited 
honor  to  those  brave  men  here  to  make  emphatic  declaration,  that 
much  of  the  success  attending  the  rapid  mustering  into  service  of 
the  required  quota,  was  largely  attributable  to  the  chivalric  zeal 
and  energy,  of  both  officers  and  men,  forming  the  pioneer  com- 
pany of  Mariposa  volunteers. 

FORMATION  OF  THE  MARIPOSA  BATTALION. 

The  full  complement  of  volunteers  authorized,  numbering 
two  hundred  and  four,  rank  and  file,  reported  to  Maj.  James  Bur- 
ney, at  Savage’s  old  store — then  in  partial  ruins — near  Agua 
Fria,  February  10,  1851,  equipped,  mounted,  and  ready  for  service. 
Here  the  Mariposa  Battalion  was  organized.  It  was  formed  into 
three  companies:  A,  with  seventy  men;  B,  with  seventy-two; 
and  C,  with  fifty-five,  exclusive  of  surgeons,  quartermaster,  etc. 

When  the  time  arrived  for  the  election  of  officers  Major 
Burney,  to  whom  the  honor  of  commanding  the  battalion  natu- 
rally belonged,  magnanimously  declined  to  be  a candidate,  par- 

* See  Journals  of  the  California  Legislature  for  1851,  page  670. 


Hibbou  Falls— Luttg-oo-too-koo-yah:. 


(See  page  398.) 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


43 


bially  owing  to  the  pressing  duties  of  his  office  as  Sheriff  of  so  large 
a county,  but  mainly  for  the  purpose  of  insuring  harmony,  by 
avoiding  all  jealous  and  ambitious  rivalries. 

OFFICERS  ELECTED  TO  COMMAND  THE  BATTALION. 

In  this  emergency  James  D.  Savage  was  elected  Commander, 
not  only  on  account  of  his  soldierly  qualities,  but  for  his  knowl- 
edge of  the  habits,  customs,  haunts,  and  language  of  the  Indians, 
as  well  as  of  the  country  to  be  traversed.  The  following  is  the 
muster-roll  of  the  battalion:  * Major,  James  D.  Savage;  Adjutant, 
M.  B.  Lewis;  Surgeon,  Dr.  A.  Bronson,  who  afterwards  resigned 
and  was  succeeded  by  Dr.  Lewis  Leach;  Assistant  Surgeons, 
Drs.  Pfifer  and  Black;  Sergeant-Major,  Bobt.  E.  Bussell.  Cap- 
tains—Co.  A,  seventy  men,  John  I.  Kuykendall;  Co.  B,  seventy- 
two  men,  John  Bowling;  Co.  C,  fifty-five  men,  William  Dill; 
First  Lieutenants,  John  I.  Scott,  Co.  A;  Beuben  T.  Chandler, 
Co.  B;  Hugh  AY.  Ferrell,  Co.  C.  Thus  officered, 

THE  MARIPOSA  BATTALION  TOOK  UP  ITS  LINE  OF  MARCH. 

The  troops  supplied  their  own  horses  and  equipments,  and  the 
State  the  provisions  and  baggage  wagons.  Owing  to  the  uncer- 
tainty of  payment  at  that  early  day,  and  other  untoward  circum- 
stances, almost  fabulous  prices  were  charged  for  articles  purchased 
in  the  mining  districts. 

A large  grassy  meadow,  located  on  Mariposa  Creek,  some 
fifteen  miles  below  the  village  of  Mariposa,  was  made  the  first 
head-quarters  of  the  battalion,  where  drilling,  manoeuvering,  and 
other  preparatory  exercises  necessary  for  efficient  military  service, 
were  duly  put  into  practice.  Occasional  scouting  parties  would 
sally  out  for  short  distances  in  search  of  the  enemy,  known  to  be 
amazingly  near,  from  the  numerous  thefts  committed  in  cattle 
and  horses;  but  these  seemed  to  have  had  no  more  decisive  result 
than  the  cultivation  of  watchfulness,  and  exercise,  and  the  retire- 
ment of  the  Indians  farther  into  the  mountains.  Meanwhile, 

* ‘‘Elliott’s  History  of  Fresno  County,”  pages  177,  178. 

4 


44- 


IJY  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


THE  DAWN  OF  A NEW  ERA  WAS  BREAKING. 

While  all  these  warlike  tactics  were  progressing,  potential 
humanitarian  influences  were  giving  birth  to  a nobler  policy  than 
a mere  conflict  of  races,  and  one  more  in  consonance  with  the 
enlightened  spirit  of  the  age.  Communications,  glistening  with 
enlarged  views  and  generous  impulses  on  this  question,  began  to 
flow  in  a steady  stream  to  the  Executive,  and  from  persons  of 
high  official  position,  such  as,  for  instance,  that  indicated  m the 
following  extract  from  the 

LETTER  OF  GEN.  THOMAS  B.  EASTLAND.* 

The  Indians  have  been  more  “sinned  against  than  sinning  ” since  the 
settling  of  California  by  the  Avhites,  is  the  opinion  of  many  old  inhabit- 
ants, as  well  as  miners,  who  have  lived  in  their  midst,  and  watched  the 
rise  and  progress  of  the  many  disturbances  that  have  occurred;  they  are 
naturally  inoffensive,  and  perhaps  less  warlike  than  any  other  tribes  on 
the  continent;  indeed,  they  have  not  even  the  resources  necessary  for 
defense;  the  bow  and  arrow  are  their  only  arm;  they  are  destitute  of  ani- 
mals even  for  transportation  purposes;  they  have  no  means  of  support 
within  themselves,  save  the  transitory  fruits  of  the  seasons,  some  few 
esculent  plants  and  acorns,  the  latter  being  garnered  up  for  their  winter 
supplies,  by  which  they  must  stay  or  starve;  they  are  to  a man,  almost, 
in  a state  of  nature,  without  a single  comfort  in  the  way  of  clothing,  and 
during  the  cold  months  huddle  together  in  their  holes , as  their  only  pro- 
tection against  the  inclemency  of  the  weather;  in  fact,  all  their  habits 
are  peaceful,  and  in  their  whole  character  it  is  not  discoverable  that  nat- 
urally they  possess  the  first  element  of  a warlike  people;  but  the  germ  of 
a hostile  spirit  has  been  created  in  them,  that,  without  some  prompt  and 
decisive  action  on  the  part  of  the  General  Government,  will  grow  and 
spread  among  them  a deadly  hate  towards  the  whites,  which  erelong 
may  cause  our  frontier  to  be  marked  with  lines  of  blood.  If  they  are  apt 
scholars  they  will  not  only  be  taught  how  to  fight,  but  in  time  will  muster 
many  warriors,  each  with  his  firelock  and  butcher-knife,  taken  from  the 
bodies  of  murdered  white  men. 

I have  the  honor  to  be  Your  Excellency’s  obedient  servant, 

Thomas  B.  Eastland, 
Brig.  Gen.  1st.  Division,  Cal.  Ma.  comm'g. 

Such  well-timed  and  considerate  sentiments  carried  with 

* See  Journals  of  the  Legislature  of  California  for  1851,  page  770. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


45 


them  the  force  of  conclusive  argument,  and  gave  full  strength  to 
the  moulding  of  a more  generous  future  for  the  campaign.  At 
this  important  juncture,  such  was  Governor  McDougal’s  anxiety 
lest  every  possible  contingency  should  not  be  anticipated  and 
provided  for,  that  he  invited  earnest  conferences  with  other  State 
officers,  and  with  all  the  most  influential  members  of  both  Senate 
and  Assembly,  upon  this  all-absorbing  question,  regardless  of  any 
political  differences  whatsoever.  Moreover,  upon  the  eve  of 
Colonel  Johnson’s  departure,  His  Excellency  issued  the  following 

INSTRUCTIONS  TO  COL.  J.  NEELY  JOHNSON. 

San  Jose,*  January  25,  1851. 

The  force  provided  may  or  may  not  he  sufficient;  the  difficulties  of 
communication  with  the  scene  of  the  disturbances  are  so  great  as  to  render 
it  almost  if  not  quite  impracticable  to  be  perfectly  advised  of  the  exact 
state  of  affairs.  I am  left,  therefore,  to  act  as  the  emergency  seems  to 
require,  and  without  that  degree  of  particular  and  minute  information  so 
important  to  the  prompt  and  efficient  suppression  of  Indian  hostilities. 
Such  being  the  case,  and  being  desirous  to  do  all  in  my  power  to  afford 
our  citizens  prQtection  in  life  and  property,  I have  deemed  it  advisable  to 
dispatch  an  officer  of  the  staff  to  the  scene  of  disturbances,  with  the  view 
to  ascertain,  collect,  and  report  all  facts  respecting  them,  which  are  or 
may  be  required  to  direct  intelligently  the  further  operations  of  the 
State  authorities.  You  have  been  selected  for  this  purpose. 

You  will  proceed  at  once,  and  by  the  most  expeditious  route,  to  the 
county  of  Mariposa,  where  you  will  communicate  with  the  officer  in  com- 
mand of  the  forces  which  have  been  recently  ordered  out.  If  possible,  let 
the  Indians  be  conciliated.  Indian  war  is  at  all  times  to  be  deprecated, 
but  especially  so  by  us  now,  in  the  infancy  of  our  career  as  a State,  and 
before  the  General  Government  has  provided  us  with  the  necessary  means 
of  protection  and  defense.  We  are  in  no  condition  to  be  harassed  by 
expensive  and  protracted  disturbances,  which,  when  the  best  provision 
has  been  made  for  them,  prove  seriously  detrimental  to  the  best  interests 
of  the  people  among  whom  they  exist.  I cannot,  therefore,  too  strongly 
impress  upon  you,  and  through  you  upon  our  citizens,  to  avoid  studiously 
the  commission  of  any  act  calculated  to  excite  and  exasperate  unnecessa- 
rily the  Indian  tribes. 

While  the  measures  it  may  become  necessary  to  adopt  shall  be  firm, 


* Then  the  seat  of  State  Government. 


46 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


let  them  be  tempered  with  kindness  and  forbearance,  manifesting  at  all 
times  a disposition  to  restore  relations  of  friendship,  and  perpetuate  a 
mutual  good  understanding.  The*  great  object  is  to  effect  a peace  with  the 
least  bloodshed,  and  at  the  least  expense,  and  no  means  should  be  left 
untried  to  bring  it  about.  In  this  connection  I would  suggest  that,  before 
leaving  San  Francisco,  an  interview  be  had  by  you  with  the  United 
States  Commissioners  on  this  subject,  who  will,  no  doubt,  cordially  co- 
operate with  you  in  whatever  shall  serve  to  effect  an  object  so  desirable. 
You  will  also  assure  them  that  every  facility  within  your  power  will  be 
extended  to  them,  in  the  execution  of  their  mission;  and  for  this  purpose, 
if  they  deem  it  necessary,  you  will  order  out  such  force  as  will  securely 
protect  their  persons  and  property.  If  the  Indians  are  still  found  to  be 
obstinate  and  intractable  after  your  endeavors,  as  well  as  the  endeavors 
and  means  used  by  the  Commissioners,  to  bring  about  an  amicable  adjust- 
ment of  the  existing  difficulties,  it  will  then  become  your  duty  to  decide 
upon  the  line  of  offensive  policy  to  be  pursued.  Where  pacific  measures 
fail,  a vigorous  prosecution  of  the  war  is  our  most  efficient  remedy.  As 
before  remarked,  the  force  already  ordered  out  may  be  sufficient  for  all 
purposes,  but  this  is  a matter  which  I have  not  the  means  of  determining; 
it  must  be  left  to  your  discretion  and  better  judgment  after  you  shall  have 
clearly  ascertained,  by  personal  observation,  the  actual  exigency.  Should 
an  emergency  exist  now,  or  arise  hereafter,  requiring  an  additional  num- 
ber of  troops,  which  will  not  admit  of  the  delay  necessary  to  communicate 
with  me,  you  are  authorized  to  call  out  such  additional  numbers  as  may  be 
necessary.  But  it  is  to  be  hoped  this  will  not  be  required;  and  unless 
absolutely  demanded  by  circumstances,  of  which  you  must  be  the  judge, 
the  call  will  not  of  course  be  made.  We  have  every  reason  to  believe 
that  as  soon  as  at  all  practicable,  the  General  Government  will  take  steps 
to  afford  us  adequate  protection;  at  present,  however,  efficient  aid  need 
not  be  expected.  There  are  but  few  United  States  troops  in  the  State,  and 
those  few  are  stationed  at  points  distant  from  each  other,  and  remote  from 
the  scene  of  disturbances,  requiring  time  to  collect  and  fit  them  for 
actual  service;  time,  too,  which  may  be  all-important  in  speedily  termi- 
nating our  difficulties  with  the  Indians,  and  thus  saving  many  valuable 
lives,  as  well  as  preserving  much  valuable  property.  . . . Further 

advice,  if  it  is  deemed  necessary,  will  be  sent  to  you  by  express. 

I have  the  honor  to  be,  &c., 

John  McDougal. 

The  tendency  of  these  well-timed  and  comprehensive  instruc- 
tions to  Colonel  Johnson  gave  assurance  of  a two-fold  advantage: 
first,  in  giving  him  the  power  to  augment  the  State  forces  com- 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


47 


mensurately  with  the  strength  developed  by  the  enemy;  and 
second,  in  securing  to  the  Indian  Commissioners  the  ability  to 
compel  obedience,  should  their  pacific  labors  become  ineffectual. 

Conferences  between  the  Governor  of  the  State  and  the  Indian 
Commissioners  sent  out  by  the  General  Government  became  both 
frequent  and  effectual,  and  superinduced  the  adoption  of  a more 
just  and  more  benignant  policy  toward  the  Indians.  Finally,  an 
agreement  was  made  between  the  Executive  of  California,  Gov- 
ernor  McDougal,  and  the  U.  S.  Indian  Commissioners,  Messrs. 
Wozencraft,  McKee,  and  Barbour,  that  the  latter,  in  the  interests 
of  humanity,  should  take  full  command  of  the  State  troops,  then 
in  the  field  near  Mariposa.  Accordingly,  instructions  were  dis- 
patched immediately  to  Major  Savage,  informing  him  of  this 
arrangement,  and  ordering  him  to  suspend  all  active  hostile  dem- 
onstrations against  the  enemy,  until  further  directed. 

Thus  provided,  therefore,  against  all  possible  contingencies, 
the  Commissioners  lost  no  unnecessary  time  in  making 

SUITABLE  PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  COMING  CAMPAIGN. 

Stores  of  many  kinds,  adapted  to  Indian  tastes  and  wants, 
as  well  as  to  their  own,  had  to  be  selected  and  dispatched.  And, 
for  conferring  more  readily  with  the  mountain  tribes,  the  serv- 
ices of  a few  peaceful  mission  Indians  were  secured,  as  messengers 
and  interpreters,  so  that  through  these  they  could  the  more  read- 
ily find  access  to  the  hearts  and  prejudices  of  the  hostile  Indians. 
Much  anxious  care  and  intelligent  inquiry  were  needed  in  this,  to 
insure  such  material  as  was  best  adapted  to  the  work;  because 
success  or  failure  might  largely  depend  upon  their  efficiency  and 
adaptability  to  the  important  task.  All  things  being  in  readiness, 
the  U.  S.  Indian  Commissioners,  under  the  escort  of  Colonel  John- 
son, and  a small  detachment  of  State  troops,  repaired  as  rapidly 
as  possible  to  the  camp  of  the  Mariposa  Battalion. 

After  a cordial  though  informal  welcome,  Colonel  Johnson 
introduced  himself,  the  Commissioners,  and  the  subject  in  the 
following  explanatory 


48  IJV  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


SPEECH  TO  THE  MARIPOSA  BATTALION.* 

Soldiers  and  Gentlemen:  Your  operations  as  a military  organiza- 
tion will  henceforth  be  under  the  direction  of  the  United  States  Commis- 
sioners. Under  their  orders  you  are  now  assigned  to  the  duty  of  subduing 
such  Indian  tribes  as  could  not  otherwise  be  induced  to  make  treaties 
with  them,  and  at  once  cease  hostilities  and  depredations.  Your  officers 
will  make  all  reports  to  the  Commissioners.  Your  orders  and  instructions 
will  hereafter  be  issued  by  them.  Your  soldierly  and  manly  appearance 
is  a sufficient  guarantee  that  their  orders  will  be  conscientiously  carried 
out.  While  I do  not  hesitate  to  denounce  the  Indians  for  the  murders 
and  robberies  committed  by  them,  we  should  not  forget  that  there  may 
perhaps  be  circumstances  which,  if  taken  into  consideration,  might  to 
some  extent  excuse  their  hostility  to  the  whites.  They  probably  feel  that 
they  themselves  are  the  aggrieved  party,  looking  upon  us  as  trespassers 
upon  their  territory,  invaders  of  their  country,  and  seeking  to  dispossess 
them  of  their  homes.  It  may  be  that  they  class  us  with  the  Spanish 
invaders  of  Mexico  and  California,  whose  cruelties  in  civilizing  and 
Christianizing  them  are  still  traditionally  fresh  in  their  memories.  As  I 
am  soon  to  leave  you  I will  now  bid  you  “good-bye,”  with  the  hope  that 
your  actions  will  be  in  harmony  with  the  wishes  of  the  Commissioners,  and 
that  in  the  performance  of  your  duties,  you  will  in  all  cases  observe  mercy 
where  severity  is  not  justly  demanded. 

PEACE  MESSENGERS  SENT  TO  THE  INDIAN  VILLAGES. 

The  mission  Indians,  so  called,  who  acted  so  important  a 
part  at  this  crisis  in  preliminary  peace  negotiations,  were  those 
who  had  been  gathered  into  the  fold  of  the  Catholic  Church,  estab- 
lished by  the  Spanish  missionaries  between  the  years  1768  and 
1780,  under  the  able  leadership  of  Junipero  Serra — who  also  dis- 
covered and  named  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  in  October,  1769. 
These  Indians,  under  a rude  kind  of  both  religious  and  secular 
civilization,  having  shared  its  advantages,  had  taken  no  part 
whatsoever  in  the  hostilities  of  the  times.  Many  had  formerly 
belonged  to  the  mountain  tribes,  and  could  speak  their  language, 
yet  had  no  sympathy  with  the  hostiles.  Among  these  there 
seems  to  have  been  one  named  Russio,  who  was  pre-eminently 
qualified  for  the  service  of  messenger  and  interpreter;  and  who, 


Reported  by  Dr.  L.  H.  Bunnell. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


49 


owing  to  his  discriminating  apprehension  of  the  good  intentions 
and  motives  of  the  Commissioners,  his  superior  intelligence,  and 
convincingly  persuasive  manners,  became  an  invaluable  auxiliary 
in  the  establishment  of  peace  relations. 

With  a less  intelligent  Indian  named  Sandino,  and  other 
assistants,  Russio  set  out  for  the  nearest  Indian  villages,  where, 
by  his  graphic  pictures  of  the  invincible  power  of  the  whites,  and 
the  utter  folly  of  resisting  and  fighting  them ; the  liberal  supplies 
of  blankets,  provisions,  and  ornaments  for  their  women  and  chil- 
dren, to  be  most  generously  distributed  among  them ; with 
assurances  of  kindly  treatment  and  protection,  he  induced  many 
to  visit  the  Commissioners,  converse  with  them  (through  Russio), 
and  finally  to  accept  the  proffered  conditions.  It  is  true  some 
were  very  shy,  and,  being  conscience-smitten  for  the  culpable  part 
they  had  previously  taken,  were  suspiciously  doubtful  of  results ; 
but  the  lavish  distribution  of  presents,  and  the  uniform  good 
treatment  received  by  those  who  had  submitted,  eventually 
charmed  others  into  satisfied  acquiescence. 

At  this  time  the  California  Indians  numbered,  according  to 
Major  Savage’s  representation,*  as  follows:  San  Joaquin  River, 
and  its  tributaries,  6,500;  Tuolumne,  2,100;  Merced,  4,800; 
King’s  River,  2,000;  Kern,  1,700;  Tulare,  1,000;  Umas,  5,000; 
on  the  east  side  of  the  Sierra  Nevada — embracing  Owen’s  Lake 
and  River,  Walker,  Carson,  and  Truckee — 31,000  ; Klamath,  Trin- 
idad, Sacramento,  and  branches,  30,000;  Clear  Lake,  Trinidad 
Bay,  and  Russian  River,  6,000;  making  a total  of  90,100.  Of 
these  the  San  Joaquin,  Tuolumne,  Merced,  King’s,  Kern,  Tulare, 
and  Umas  of  Tulare  Lake,  numbering  some  23,000,  not  only 
sympathized  with  the  hostile  Indians,  but,  for  the  most  part,  took 
active  measures  against  the  miners  and  settlers  of  Mariposa 
County. 

Among  the  earliest  arrivals  was  Kee-chee,  whom  Dr.  Bun- 
nell calls  Yow-ches-ter,  but  whose  Christian  name’  given  him  at 
the  missions  probably,  was  Baptista,  according  to  Dr.  Wozen- 


<£  Elliott’s  History  of  Fresno  County,”  page  181. 


50 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


craft,  one  of  the  Indian  Commissioners,  and  was  pronounced 
Beauteesta,  who  was  the  recognized  leader  of  all  the  Mariposa 
bands.  Kee-chee  had  been  generally  friendly  to  the  whites,  but, 
through  the  influence  of  Jose  Bey,  he  had  united  his  fortunes 
with  the  unfriendly  Indians.  It  is  reasonably  presumable,  how- 
ever, to  suppose,  that  the  havoc  made  among  his  people,  at  almost 
their  first  encounter,  had  not  been  without  its  impressive  lesson; 
inasmuch  as,  when  assured  of  forgiveness,  safety,  and  beneficent 
treatment,  he  not  only  submitted  willingly  to  the  policy  of  the 
Commissioners  but  promised  to  bring  in  as  many  of  his  people  as 
he  possibly  could.  But,  according  to  Dr.  Bunnell,  when  ques- 
tioned about  the  mountain  Indians,  he  made  answer:  “ The  moun- 
tain tribes  would  not  listen  to  any  terms  of  peace  involving  the 
abandonment  of  their  territory ; that  in  the  fight  near  the  north 
fork  of  the  San  Joaquin,  Jose  Bey  had  been  badly  wounded  and 
would  probably  die;  that  his  tribe  was  very  angry,  and  would 
not  make  peace.” 

FIRST  INTIMATIONS  GIVEN  OF  THE  EXISTENCE  OF  YO  SEMITE. 

Bussio  said:*  “ The  Indians  in  the  deep  rocky  valley  on  the 
Merced  Biver  do  not  wish  for  peace,  and  will  not  come  in  to  see 
the  chiefs  sent  by  the  great  father  to  make  treaties.  They  think 
the  white  men  cannot  find  their  hiding-places,  and  that  therefore 
they  cannot  be  driven  out ! ” The  other  Indians  of  the  party  con- 
firmed Bussio’s  statements.  Vowchester  [Kee-chee]  was  the 
principal  spokesman,  and  he  said:  “In  this  deep  valley  spoken  of 
by  Bussio,  one  Indian  is  more  than  ten  white  men.  The  hiding- 
places  are  many.  They  will  throw  rocks  down  on  the  white  men, 
if  any  should  come  near  them.  The  other  tribes  dare  not  make 
war  upon  them,  for  they  are  lawless  like  the  grizzlies,  and  as 
strong.  We  are  afraid  to  go  to  this  valley,  for  there  are  many 
witches  there!” 

In  the  earnest  and  hopeful  expectation  of  peacefully  gathering 
in  the  disaffected  tribes  and  permanently  providing  for  their  com- 
fort and  safety,  the  Indian  Commissioners  established 


Dr.  Bunnell. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


51 


RESERVATION  GROUNDS  AND  QUARTERS 

On  the  Fresno  River — a few  miles  easterly  of  where  the  present 
town  of  Madera  is  situated,  and  now  known  as  the  Adobe  Ranch, 
owned  by  Mr.  J.  G.  Stitt — to  which  all  pacifically  disposed  Indians 
could  resort,  and  find  shelter  and  protection.  This  became  the 
place  of  general  rendezvous  for  both  soldiers  and  Indians.  Yet, 
notwithstanding  these  timely  and  humane  preparations,  and  their - 
acceptance  by  some,  the  many  still  hesitated,  doubtingly,  of  the 
ultimate  intentions  of  the  whites,  and  kept  themselves  hidden  in 
their  silent  retreats.  The  positive  statements  of  Russio  and  Kee- 
chee  placed  it  beyond  peradventure  that  the  Yo  Semites  had  not 
abated  their  hostile  feelings  and  determinations  one  iota ; to  which 
their  failure  in  response  to  the  many  invitations  sent,  became 
additional  proof. 

Therefore,  being  weary  with  waiting,  and  annoyed  constantly 
with  depredations  committed  upon  the  cattle  and  horses  of  the 
miners  and  settlers,  as  well  as  those  belonging  to  the  command, 
the  Commissioners  resolved  upon  aggressive  movements,  and 
ordered 

THE  BATTALION  TO  FORM  INTO  LINE. 

This  was  delightful  music  to  the  ears,  and  great  joy  to  the 
hearts  of  the  volunteers,  who  had  been  impatiently  chafing  at 
their  prolonged  inactivity,  so  that  when  the  injunction  was  given  to 
“ mount,”  every  saddle  was  filled,  with  alacrity.  * 

The  entire  absence  of  roads  in  those  days  compelled  them  to 
march  in  Indian,  or  single,  file,  and  over  the  most  indifferent  of 
trails.  Notwithstanding  this,  and  the  evidences  of  a gathering* 
storm , the  order,  “ F orward,  march,  ’ ’ was  cheerfully  obeyed.  Under 
the  directions  of  Major  Savage,  the  advance  was  made  in  silence; 
“ For,”  said  he,  “ we  must  all  learn  to  be  still  as  Indians,  or  we  shall 
never  find  them.”  Braving  with  becoming  unanimity  the  heavy 
rain,  that  was  now  coming  down  in  torrents,  their  fearlessness 
was  rewarded  by  the  welcome  discovery  of  “ Indian  signs.” 
They  were  then  on  the  south  fork  of  the  Merced  River,  about 
two  miles  below  where  Wawona  Station  (Clark’s)  now  is.  As 


52 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


night  was  advancing,  and  the  rain  was  turning  into  snow,  they 
went  quietly  into  camp.  At  daylight  the  following  morning, 
after  leaving  their  animals  and  encampment  in  charge  of  a strong 
guard,  two  of  the  companies  under  Captains  Boling  and  Dill,  with 
one  of  Savage's  Indians  named  “Bob  ” as  guide,  advanced  with- 
out any  hesitation,  or  effort  at  concealment,  to  the  Indian  village. 

“ On  discovering  us,”  Dr.  Bunnell  remarks,  “ the  Indians 
'hurriedly  ran  to  and  fro,  as  if  uncertain  what  course  to  pursue. 
Seeing  an  unknown  force  approaching,  they  threw  up  their  hands 
in  token  of  submission,  crying  out  at  the  same  time  in  Spanish, 
-Race!  pace!’  (peace!  peace!).  We  were  at  once  ordered  to  halt, 
while  Major  Savage  went  forward  to  arrange  for  the  surrender. 
The  Major  was  at  once  recognized,  and  cordially  received  by  such 
of  the  band  as  he  desired  to  confer  with  officially.  We  found  the 
village  to  be  that  of  Pon-wat-chee,  a chief  of  the  Noot-chu  tribe, 
whose  people  had  formerly  worked  for  Savage  under  direction 
of  Cow-chit-ty,  his  brother,  and  from  whose  tribe  Savage  had 
taken  Ee-e-ke-no,  one  of  his  former  wives.  The  chief  professed 
still  to  entertain  feelings  of  friendship  for  Savage,  and  expressed 
himself  as  now  willing  to  obey  his  counsels. 

“ Savage  at  once  told  the  chief  the  object  of  the  expedition,  and 
his  requirements.  His  terms  were  promptly  agreed  to,  and  before 
we  had  time  to  examine  the  captives  or  their  wigwams,  they  had 
commenced  packing  their  supplies,  and  removing  their  property 
from  their  bark  huts.  This  done,  the  torch  was  applied  by  the 
Indians  themselves,  in  token  of  their  sincerity  in  removing  to  the 
reservation  on  the  Fresno.” 

After  this  bloodless  victory,  the  captured  chief,  Pon-wat-chee, 
volunteered  the  information  to  Savage  of  a camp  of  the  Po-ho-no- 
chees  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  not  far  below  his  old  village. 
Messengers  were  immediately  dispatched  there ; and  as  the  Po-ho- 
no-chees,  through  their  runners,  had  already  learned  of  the  surprise, 
and  peaceful  abduction  of  the  Noot-chiis,  and  of  their  kindly 
treatment  by  the  whites,  they  timidly,  yet  unhesitatingly,  gave 
themselves  up. 

Messengers  and  runners  were  now  sent  out  in  all  directions  to 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


53 


discover  the  hiding-places  of  other  Indian  bands,  with  instructions 
to  promise  safety,  protection,  food,  and  clothing,  if  they  surren- 
dered, and  extermination  if  they  refused.  This  significant  mandate 
had  its  desired  effect ; and  although  their  movements  were  charac- 
terized by  timidity  and  fear,  all  found  in  this  immediate  vicinity 
quietly  surrendered. 

These  encouraging  auguries  gave  measurable  promise  of  like 
successes  with  the  defiant  Yo  Semites,  and  other  Indians,  still 
hidden  in  their  mountain  fastnesses.  Similar  messages  to  the 
above  had  been  conveyed  to  the  Yo  Semites;  but,  as  yet,  not  a 
single  Indian  had  consented  to  present  himself,  and  accept  the 
proffered  conditions.  To  avoid  compulsory  measures  and  possible 
slaughter,  it  was  deemed  desirable  to  send  a special  courier  to 
Ten-ie-ya,  the  chief  of  the  Yo  Semites,  bearing  a kindly,  yet 
decided,  ultimatum.  To  this  the  old  chief  concluded  it  best  to 
respond  at  once,  and  in  person,  on  the  following  day. 

INTERVIEW  BETWEEN  TEN-IE-YA  AND  MAJOR  SAVAGE. 

From  Dr.  Bunnell’s  graphic  picture  of  the  conference,  as  an 
eye-witness,  the  chief  of  the  Yo  Semites  had  the  courage  to  go 
alone,  and  to  present  himself  in  dignified  silence  to  the  guard, 
there  to  remain  standing  until  motioned  to  enter  Savage’s  tent. 
He  was  immediately  recognized  and  respectfully  greeted  by  Pon- 
wat-chee  as  the  chief  of  the  Yo  Semites.  Both  officers  and  men 
received  him  kindly,  and  most  cordially  tendered  him  the  hospi- 
talities of  their  camp : — 

“ After  which,  with  the  aid  of  the  Indians,  the  Major  informed  him 
of  the  wishes  of  the  Commissioners.  The  old  sachem  was  very  suspicious 
of  Savage,  and  feared  he  was  taking  this  method  of  getting  the  Yo 
Semites  into  his  power,  for  the  purpose  of  revenging  his  personal  wrongs. 
Savage  told  him  that  if  he  would  go  to  the  Commissioners  and  make  a 
treaty  of  peace  with  them,  as  the  other  Indians  were  doing,  there  would 
he  no  more  war.  Ten-ie-ya  cautiously  inquired  the  object  of  taking  all 
the  Indians  to  the  plains  of  the  San  Joaquin,  and  said:  e My  people  do 
not  want  anything  from  the  Great  Father  you  tell  me  about.  The  Great 
Spirit  is  our  father,  and  he  has  always  supplied  us  with  all  that  we  need. 
"We  do  not  want  anything  from  white  men.  Our  women  are  able  to  do 


54 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


our  work.  Go,  then ; Jet  us  remain  in  the  mountains  where  we  were  horn ; 
where  the  ashes  of  our  fathers  have  been  given  to  the  winds.  I have  said 
enough ! ’ 

“ This  was  abruptly  answered  by  Savage  in  Indian  dialect  and  gest- 
ures. £ If  you  and  your  people  have  all  you  desire,  why  do  you  steal  our 
horses  and  mules  ? Why  do  you  rob  the  miners’  camps  ? Why  do  you 
murder  the  white  men,  and  plunder  and  burn  their  houses?  ’ 

“Ten-ie-ya  sat  silent  for  some  time;  it  was  evident  he  understood 
what  Savage  had  said,  for  he  replied:  ‘My  young  men  have  sometimes 
taken  horses  and  mules  from  the  whites.  It  was  wrong  for  them  to  do  so. 
It  is  not  wrong  to  take  the  property  of  enemies  who  have  wronged  my 
people.  My  young  men  believed  the  white  gold-diggers  were  our  enemies  ^ 
we  now  know  they  are  not,  and  we  will  be  glad  to  live  in  peace  with  them. 
We  will  stay  here  and  be  friends.  My  people  do  not  want  to  go  to  the 
plains.  The  tribes  who  go  there  are  some  of  them  very  bad.  They  will 
make  war  upon  my  people.  We  cannot  live  on  the  plains  with  them. 
Here  we  can  defend  ourselves  against  them.’ 

“In  reply  to  this,  Savage  very  deliberately  and  firmly  said:  ‘Your 
people  must  go  to  the  Commissioners  and  make  terms  with  them.  If  they 
do  not,  your  young  men  will  again  steal  our  horses;  your  people  will  again 
kill  and  plunder  the  whites.  It  was  your  people  who  robbed  my  stores,, 
burned  my  houses,  and  murdered  my  men.  If  they  do  not  make  a treaty, 
your  whole  tribe  will  be  destroyed,  not  one  of  them  will  be  left  alive.’  At 
this  vigorous  ending  of  the  Major’s  speech,  the  old  chief  replied:  ‘It  is 
useless  to  talk  to  you  about  who  destroyed  your  property  and  killed  your 
people.  If  the  Chow-cliillas  do  not  boast  of  it,  they  are  cowards,  for  they 
led  us  on.  I am  old,  and  you  can  kill  me  if  you  will,  but  what  use  to  lie 
to  you  who  know  more  than  all  the  Indians,  and  can  beat  them  in  their 
big  hunts  of  deer  and  bear.  Therefore  I will  not  lie  to  you,  but  promise 
that  if  allowed  to  return  to  my  people  I will  bring  them  in.’  He  was 
allowed  to  go.  The  next  day  he  came  back,  and  said  his  people  would 
soon  come  to  our  camp;  that  when  he  had  told  them  they  could  come  with 
safety,  they  were  willing  to  go  and  make  a treaty  with  the  men  sent  by 
the  Great  Father  who  was  so  good  and  rich.  Another  day  passed, 
but  no  Indians  made  their  appearance  from  the  ‘deep  valley,’  spoken  of 
so  frequently  by  those  at  our  camp.  The  old  chief  said  the  snow  was  so 
deep  that  they  could  not  travel  fast;  that  his  village  was  so  far  down 
(gesticulating,  by  way  of  illustration,  with  his  hands)  that  when  the  snow 
was  deep  on  the  mountains  they  would  be  a long  time  climbing  out  of  it. 
As  we  were  at  the  time  having  another  storm,  Ten-ie-ya’s  explanation 
was  accepted,  but  he  was  closely  watched.” 


THE  YO  & SEMITE  VALLEY. 


55 


As  each  returning  day  brought  with  it  no  tangible  evidence 
of  the  arrival  of  the  Yo  Semites,  it  was  resolved  that  they  should 
be  sought  after  in  their  boasted  stronghold ; and,  notwithstanding 
the  discouraging  pictures  so  graphically  painted,  in  both  language 
and  gesture,  by  Ten-ie-ya,  of  the  difficulties  and  dangers  to  be 
encountered  on  the  way,  coupled  with  assurances  of  the  early 
arrival  of  his  people, 

A 1ST  EXPEDITION  TO  THE  MYSTIC  VALLEY  WAS  RESOLVED  UPON. 

When  volunteers  were  called  for,  according  to  the  usual 
custom  of  the  battalion,  the  entire  command  stepped  to  the  front. 
Here  a new  dilemma  became  strikingly  apparent.  As  the  Indian 
captives,  as  well  as  baggage,  had  to  be  protected,  a camp-guard 
was  as  essential  as  an  advancing  cohort.  A call  for  this  duty 
was  then  made,  but  as  very  few  responded,  the  officers  decided  to 
provide  for  it  by  a good-natured  piece  of  strategy- — a foot  race — • 
the  fleetest  to  be  the  favored  ones  for  the  expedition,  and  the 
slowest  to  form  the  camp-guard.  This  novel  method  of  selection 
was  greeted  with  hilarious  applause,  as  it  made  provisions  for 
both  emergencies,  without  hurtful  discrimination. 

Amid  many  jocular  allusions  at  the  possible  value  of  their 
fleet-footedness  (on  a retreat  ?)  when  they  met  the  enemy,  the 
troops  on  the  following  morning  made  an  early  start,  with  Major 
Savage  in  the  advance,  accompanied  by  Ten-ie-ya  as  guide.  Deep 
snow,  attended  with  the  usual  difficulties  of  making*  a trail 
through  it,  was  soon  encountered  and  overcome,  by  the  rider  in 
advance  frequently  falling  out  of  line,  and  the  next  taking  his 
place.  By  this  old-fashioned  method  a passably  good  horse-trail 
was  made  over  it,  especially  considering  the  rough  and  rocky 
country  being  traveled  over. 

YO  SEMITES  MET  UPON  THE  TRAIL. 

About  midway  between  camp  and  the  valley  seventy-two  of 
the  Yo  Semites  were  met,  forcing  their  way  flounderingly  through 
the  snow,  loaded  down  with  children  and  wares,  yet,  on  their  route 
to  the  place  of  general  rendezvous,  at  the  south  fork  of  the 


56 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


Merced.  This  was  at  least  partial  proof  that  Ten-ie-ya  was  act- 
ing in  good  faith,  by  carrying  out  his  promises.  But,  as  his  band 
was  estimated  to  number  over  two  hundred,  the  question  very 
naturally  arose,  where  could  be  the  remainder  ? Ten-ie-ya, 
by  way  of  apology  for  his  limited  following,  contended  that  many 
of  his  people  had  intermarried  with  distant  tribes,  and  gone  away ; 
that  these  were  all  that  were  willing  to  leave  their  mountain 
homes  and  move  to  the  plains;  that  some  few  were  sick  and 
unable  to  come  now,  but  would  join  them  in  the  future,  and 
other  similar  excuses.  Such  unsatisfactory  statements,  implying 
as  they  did  at  best,  that  only  a portion  of  the  Yo  Semites  was 
here  represented,  the  troops  determined  upon  advancing.  As 
Ten-ie-ya  was  a reluctant,  if  not  an  unwilling  guide,  one  of  his 
young  “ braves”  was  selected  in  his  place,  and  the  old  chief 
allowed  to  accompany  his  people  to  the  camp. 

THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY  FIRST  SEEN  BY  WHITE  MEN. 

After  separating  from  the  Indians,  and  before  advancing 
many  miles,  the  great  valley  opened  before  them  like  a sublime 
revelation.*'  But  here  Dr.  Bunnell,  an  eye-witness  and  partici- 
pant in  the  honor,  must  be  allowed  to  express  his  own  sensations, 
and  to  paint  the  graphic  picture.  T 

It  has  been  said  that  “it  is  not  easy  to  describe  in  words  the  precise 
impressions  which  great  objects  make  upon  us.”  I cannot  describe  how 
completely  I realized  this  truth.  None  but  those  who  have  visited  this 
most  wonderful  valley,  can  even  imagine  the  feelings  with  which  I looked 
Upon  the  view  that  was  there  presented.  The  grandeur  of  the  scene  was 
but  softened  by  the  haze  that  hung  over  the  valley — light  as  gossamer- — 
and  by  the  clouds  which  partially  dimmed  the  higher  cliffs  and  mountains. 
This  obscurity  of  vision  but  increased  the  awe  with  which  I beheld  it,  and, 
as  I looked,  a peculiarly  exalted  sensation  seemed  to  fill  my  whole  being, 
and  1 found  my  eyes  in  tears  with  emotion. 

To  obtain  a more  distinct  and  quiet  view,  I had  left  the  trail  and 

*This  was  on  May  5 or  6,  1851,  although  Dr.  Bunnell  incorrectly  gives  the 
latter  part  of  March  as  the  date.  See  dispatches  of  Maj.  James  D.  Savage,  in 
“Elliott’s  History  of  Fresno  County,”  pages  179,  180. 

J “ Discovery  of  the  Yosemite,”  page  54. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


57 


my  horse,  and  wallowed  through  the  snow  alone  to  a projecting  granite 
rock.  So  interested  was  I in  the  scene  before  me,  that  I did  not  observe 
that  my  comrades  had  all  moved  on,  and  that  I would  soon  be  left  indeed 
alone.  My  situation  attracted  the  attention  of  Major  Savage — who  was 
riding  in  the  rear  of  the  column — who  hailed  me  from  the  trail  below  with, 
“ You  had  better  wake  up  from  that  dream  up  there,  or  you  may  lose  your 
hair;  I have  no  faith  in  Ten-ie-ya’s  statement  that  there  are  no  Indians 
about  here.  We  had  better  be  moving;  some  of  the  murdering  devils  may 
be  lurking  along  this  trail  to  pick  up  stragglers.”  I hurriedly  joined  the 
Major  on  the  descent,  and  as  other  views  presented  themselves,  I said 
with  some  enthusiasm;  “If  my  hair  is  now  required,  I can  depart  in 
peace,  for  I have  here  seen  the  power  and  glory  of  a Supreme  Being;  the 
majesty  of  His  handy-work  is  in  that  ‘Testimony  of  the  Bocks.’” 

To  the  Mariposa  Battalion,  then,  commanded  by  Major  Savage, 
is  to  be  accorded  the  honor  of  first  entering  the  Yo  Semite  Valley, 
May  5th  or  6th,  1851.  It  is  true  the  writer  has  heard  of  various  per- 
sons having  visited  it,  when  prospecting  for  gold,  as  early  as  1849, 
but  no  responsible  data  to  establish  the  fact  has  yet  come  to  his 
knowledge.  Still,  if  this  were  proven  beyond  peradventure, 
their  neglect  to  publish  so  marvelous  a discovery  to  the  world,  is 
presumable  evidence  of  a lack  of  appreciation,  or  of  an  absorbed 
attention  to  other  pursuits  that  utterly  diverted  it  from  this 
sublime  theme.  And  while  discussing  this  question  I hope  to  be 
forgiven  for  expressing  surprise  that  so  little  was  said  or  written 
upon  it  by  its  discoverers  at  that  time.  Even  Dr.  L.  H.  Bunnell, 
to  whom  the  public  is  so  largely  indebted  for  his  interesting  nar- 
rative, “ The  Discovery  of  the  Yosemite,”  only  published  his 
description  of  it  in  1880.  Extenuating  mention  should,  however, 
be  made  of  the  fact  that,  at  that  time,  nearly  every  one's  thoughts 
and  energies  were  mainly  centralized  upon  the  acquisition  of 
wealth,  or  in  combatting  the  too  frequent  disappointments  that 
followed  in  its  train,  for  a moment  to  permit  such  a divertisement. 
as  an  intellectual  banquet  on  scenery,  or  in  the  preparation  and 
serving  up  of  one  for  others. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

THE  NAME— “YO  SEMITE”— ITS  OKIGIN  AND  MEANING. 


On  the  choice  of  friends 
Our  good  or  evil  name  depends. 

— Gay. 

I do  beseech  you 

(Chiefly  that  1 might  set  it  in  my  prayers), 

What  is  your  name  9 

— Shakespeak’s  Tempest,  Act  III. 


Time  is  lord  of  thee: 

Thy  wealth,  thy  glory,  and  thy  name  are  his. 

— Thomas  Love  Peacock’s  Time. 

After  the  safe  arrival  of  the  command  on  the  floor  of  the 
cliff-encompassed  home  of  the  “Grizzlies,”  as  the  Yo  Semites  were 
invariably  termed  by  the  troops,  it  would  seem  that  although 
supposed  to  be  surrounded  by  hostile  Indians,  and  that,  too,  in 
their  much-vaunted  stronghold,  there  evidently  existed  an  u,tter 
absence  of  precaution,  as  of  fear,  inasmuch  as  all  kinds  of  rollick- 
ing mirth  and  jollity  held  unchecked  court  in  the  lair  of  the 
enemy,  and  around  a huge  camp-fire,  on  the  very  evening  of  their 
arrival.  It  was  here,  and  under  these  circumstances,  and  on  this 
occasion,  that  the  now  famous  valley  received 

THE  MUSICAL  NAME — YO  SEMITE. 

Its  meaning  is,  according  to  the  very  best  authorities,  a large , 
or  full-grown , grizzly  bear;  and  is  pronounced  Yo  Sem-i-tee. 
The  old  Indian  name  was  Ah-wah-nee,  and  the  tribe  which  inhab- 
ited it — the  remote  ancestors  of  Ten-ie-ya — were  Ah-wah-nee- 
chees,  the  origin  or  signification  of  which  is  still  veiled  in  mys- 
tery. All  these  considerations,  and  other  proposed  names  merit- 
ing attention,  were  fully  discussed  at  this  opportune  juncture; 

(58) 


Photo-typo  by  Britton  & Rev,  S.  F. 

Tu-tocx-ar-nu-lah,  or  El  Capitan. 


Photo,  by  Geo.  Fiske. 


3,300  FEET  ABOVE  VALLEY,  LOOKING  WEST. 


. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


59 


but  “ Yo  Semite,”  the  one  suggested  by  Dr.  L.  H.  Bunnell,  was 
finally  adopted  by  an  almost  unanimous  vote.  * 

From  an  intelligent  Indian,  whose  life  the  writer  was  once 
instrumental  in  saving,  and  from  whom  manv  interesting  facts 
concerning  his  race  have  been  obtained,  and  will  be  given  in  due 
season,  he  received  the  following 

LEGENDARY  TRADITION  CONCERNING  “ YO  SEMITE.” 

A band  of  the  Ah-wah-nee-chees,  then  a tribe  numbering 
over  one  thousand,  was  encamped  among  the  oaks  near  the  foot 
of  Indian  Canon ; when,  early  one  morning,  an  athletic  chief  deter- 
mined upon  going  to  Mirror  Lake  (called  by  them  “ Ke-ko-too- 
yem,”  or  Sleeping  Water,  and  “ Ah-wi-yah  ”)  for  the  purpose  of 
spearing  a number  of  its  delicious  trout.  On  threading  his  way 
among  the  bowlders  that  strewed  the  ground,  and  when  passing 
one  of  the  largest,  he  was  suddenly  met  by  an  enormous  grizzly 
bear.  The  abruptness  of  this  unexpected  meeting  must  have 
been  interpreted  by  the  grizzly  as  an  unjustifiable  intrusion  upon 
his  ursine  privileges  and  domain,  as  he  immediately  declared  it  a 
casus  belli,  by  an  instantaneous  and  ferocious  attack  upon  the 
Indian.  Unprepared  as  the  young  chief  was  for  such  an  unequal 
encounter,  he  resolved  upon  standing  his  ground,  and  doing  his 
best,  as  nobly  as  he  could,  so  that  the  children  of  Ah-wah-nee 
might  see  that  the  valorous  blood  of  their  ancestors  was  still  flow- 
ing in  the  veins  of  their  descendants.  The  dead  limb  of  a tree, 
lying  near,  provided  him  with  a weapon  of  defense,  and  with  it 
he  dealt  out  heavy  and  lusty  blows  upon  the  head  of  his  antagonist; 
and,  although  badly  lacerated  and  torn  by  the  teeth  and  claws  of 
the  infuriated  brute,  the  Indian  courageously  held  to  the  uneven 
contest,  until  the  eyes  of  bruin  began  ta  glaze  in  the  cold  glare 
of  death;  and  “victory  had  perched  upon  the  banners”  of  the 
chief.  The  astonished  Indians,  in  admiring  acknowledgment 
of  the  unexampled  prowess  of  the  dauntless  Ah-wah-nee-chee, 
thenceforth  called  him  “ Yo  Semite”  in  honor  of  his  successful 
and  great  achievement.  This  well-won  cognomen  was  eventually 

transmitted^ to  his  children;  and,  finally,  to  the  whole  tribe;  so 
o 


60 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


that  the  “ Yo  Semites”  were  known,  and  feared,  by  all  the  Indians 
around  their  wildly  defensive  habitation. 

It  is  apparent  from  Dr.  Bunnell’s  statement*  that  the  signif- 
ication of  “ Yo  Semite”  was  not  generally  known  to  the  battal- 
ion ; nor  was  there  any  uniformity  in  its  general  pronunciation, 
even  among  the  Indians  themselves,  some  calling  it  Oo-soom-i-tee, 
others  Oo-hum-i-tee,  Yo-hum-i-tee,  Yo-hem-i-tee,  and  still  others 
Yo-ham-i-tee,  while  Bullack,  the  oldest  of  the  Yo  Semites  now 
living,  calls  it  Ah  Hum-a-tee — all,  however,  having  the  same 
meaning.  Nor  is  this  much  to  be  wondered  at,  from  a people 
entirely  without  a written  language.  Even  in  England — intelli- 
gent and  progressive  England — (as  well  as  in  some  portions  of  the 
United  States)  there  is  an  anomaly  existing  in  pronunciation.  In 
London,  for  instance,  the  word  “corn”  is  enunciated  cawn;  in 
Hampshire,  it  is  cam;  while  on  the  borders  of  Scotland  it  is  coom, 
and  all  intending  to  speak  it  corn.  In  Herefordshire,  beef  is 
spoken  bif;  and  feet,  jit.  Who,  then,  can  wonder  at  the  unlettered 
savage  varying  in  his  pronunciation. 

In  the  summer  of  1855,  Thomas  Ayres,  Alexander  Stair, 
Walter  Millard,  and  the  writer,  made  the  first  tourist  trip  to  Yo 
Semite  ever  attempted — about  which  something  more  will  be  pre- 
sented hereafter.  We  engaged  two  Yo  Semite  Indians  as  guides 
Towards  night  of  the  first  day  out,  we  inquired  of  the  principal 
guide,  Kossum,  how  far  it  might  possibly  be  to  Yo  Semite — for 
then  we  knew  it  by  no  other  name.  He  looked  at  us  earnestly,  and 
replied:  “No  Yo  Semitee!  Yo  Hamitee;  sabe,  Yo-ham-i-tee:'  In 
this  way  we  were  corrected  not  less  than  thirty-live  or  forty  times. 
After  returning  to  San  Francisco,  having  arranged  for  the  publi- 
cation of  a large  lithograph  of  the  Yo  Semite  Falls,  before  attach- 
ing the  name  to  it.  I wrote  to  Mr  John  Hunt,  who  was  keeping 
a store  on  the  Fresno  River,  and  from  whom  we  had  obtained 
our  Indian  guides,  requesting  him  to  go  to  the  most  intelligent 
among  them,  and  ascertain  the  exact  way  of  pronouncing  the 
name  given  to  tlie  valley.  His  answer  was,  The  correct  pro- 


* “Discovery  of  the  Yo  Semite,”  page  62 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


61 


uunciation  is  Yo-ham-i-te  or  Yo-hem-i-te.”  . This,  then,  was 
the  name  placed  on  the  lithograph. 

After  the  first  attempted  portrayal  of  the  valley  in  Hutch- 
ing’s California  Magazine,  July,  1856,  wherein  Yo-ham-i-tee* 
was  still  used,  there  ensued  a spirited  though  good-natured  news- 
paper contest  between  Dr.  Bunnell  and  the  writer,  upon  its  orthog- 
raphy; the  former  contending  for  Yo  Semite,  and  the  latter  for 
Yo  Hamitee,  on  account  of  the  reasons  above  given.  This  discus- 
sion disclosed  information,  generally  unknown  before,  of  the  nam- 
ing of  the  valley,  as  proposed  by  Dr.  Bunnell,  on  the  night  of  its 
fust  entrance  by  white  people,  May  5th  or  6th,  1851,  and  naturally 
invited  acquiescence  in  the  privilege  and  right  of  its  first  visitors 

to  oive  it  a nomenclature  most  in  accordance  with  their  own 

© 

expressed  selection;  hence,  unquestioned  concurrence  in  perpetu- 
ating the  now  well-established  name,  “ Yo  Semite.” 

Before  fully  closing  these  inquiries,  it  may  not  be  inappro- 
priate to  consider  why  preference  is  given  here  to  the  construction 
of  the  word  Yo  Semite  with  a capital  S on  its  second  syllable. 
It  is  this : Dr.  Bunnell,  to  whom  the  world  is  indebted  for  the 
choice  and  adoption  of  this  euphonious  name,  so  gave  it  to  the 
writer,  some  thirty  years  ago,  and  before  the  present  slovenly  way 
of  spelling  it  came  into  practice.  It  is  true,  Dr.  Bunnell,  in  his 
valuable  work,  “ The  Discovery  of  the  Yosemite,”  has  fallen  into 
that  habit;  but,  when  asked  his  reason  for  making  the  change, 
replied,  “I  allowed  the  printer  to  follow  his  own  way  of  spelling 
it.  Yours,  however,  is  the  correct  one,  and  I must  give  you  credit 
for  keeping  up  its  pure  orthography,  that  being  the  construction 
given  to  it,  and  agreed  upon,  at  our  first  camp-fire  in  Yo  Semite 
in  1851.”  The  Act  of  Congress  making  the  donation  of  the  valley 
to  the  State,  so  gives  it. 

*Dr.  Wozencraft,  chairman  of  the  United  States  Indian  Commission,  still 
gives  this  as  the  only  name  known  in  1851,  and  the  correct  one. 


CHAPTER  V. 

CLOSE  OF  THE  INDIAN  CAMPAIGN. 


Not  in  the  clamor  of  the  crowded  street, 

Not  in  the  shouts  and  plaudits  of  the  throng, 

But  in  ourselves,  are  triumph  and  defeat. 

— Longfellow’s  The  Poets. 

The  arms  are  fair 

When  the  intent  for  bearing  them  is  just. 

— Shakespear’s  Henry  IV.,  Part  /.,  Act  V. 

How  calm,  how  beautiful  comes  on 
The  stilly  hour,  when  storms  are  gone. 

— Moore’s  Lalla  Rookh,  The  Fire  Worshippers,  Part  III. 

On  the  early  morning  following  the  day  of  their  arrival  in 
the  much-vaunted  fastness  of  the  “ Grizzlies,”  when  the  order  was 
given  to  “fall  in,”  every  saddle  was  instantly  occupied,  and  the 
advance  commenced.  The  immense  piles  of  talus  lying  beneath 
the  granite  walls  of  the  Po-ho-no*  F all,  intercepted  their  progress 
on  the  south  side  of  the  Merced,  and  compelled  the  fording  of  its 
ice-cold  waters.  The  irregular  depth  of  the  river,  with  its 
obstructive  bowlders,  gave  involuntary  invitation  to  several  for 
an  unintentional  bath;  and  which,  but  for  the  danger  of  being 
swept  down  by  the  current  into  the  canon  below,  and  to  certain 
death,  was  only  the  signal  for  additional  hilarity. 

SMOKE  FROM  A SLUMBERING  PICKET  FIRE 

Near  El  Capitan*  unmistakably  revealed  the  presence  of  Indians, 
and  that  they  knew  of  the  advent  of  the  whites,  and  were  evi- 
dently watching  their  movements.  The  near  vicinage  of  a large 
collection  of  Indian  huts  that  had  been  but  recently  inhabited, 
and  now  gave  evidence  of  hasty  desertion,  was  proof  positive  that 

*A11  local  objects  of  interest  were  without  known  names  at  this  time. 

(62) 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


63 


the  game  sought  was  near  at  hand,  but  had  been  driven  away  by 
lack  of  circumspection.  A short  distance  from  camp  was  an 
abundant  supply  of  acorns,  their  staple  article  of  bread-stuff.  It 
would  seem,  however,  by  the  tracks  made,  that  their  pretentious 
valor  was,  like  their  footsteps,  rapidly  taking  departure.  Far 
up  the  valley  other  manifest  signs  gave  hopeful  promise  of  near- 
ness to  the  foe;  but  again  “delusive  hope”  was  to  experience 
another  dash  of  disappointment,  as  nothing  but  evidences  in 
abundance  of  hasty  departure  were  discoverable — except  a very 
old  woman  “ that  could  only  be  likened  to 

A VIVIFIED  EGYPTIAN  MUMMY,” 

And  who,  when  questioned  of  the  whereabouts  of  her  companions, 
curtly  replied  (in  Indian),  “You  can  hunt  for  them,  if  you  want 
to  see  them ! ” Hunt  they  did  for  several  days,  but  none  were 
found,  as  the  rocky  talus  over  which  the  hostiles  had  made  their 
escape,  left  no  tracks  of  their  course. 

On  all  hands,  and  at  every  deserted  camp,  were  found  large 
stores  of  Indian  food,  such  as  acorns,  pine  and  chincapin  nuts, 
grass  seeds,  wild  oats  scorched,  dried  caterpillars,  roasted  grass- 
hoppers, sun-dried  larvae  and  pupae  of  flies,  obtained  mostly  from 
Mono  Lake;  home-made  baskets,  of  many  sizes  and  patterns, 
and  for  different  uses ; a few  rabbit  or  squirrel-skin  robes,  for  bed 
coverings,*  obsidian  (for  arrow  heads),  pumice-stone,  salt,  relics  of 
clothing  and  trinkets,  the  picked  bones  of  horses  and  mules,  and 
other  property  stolen  from  the  whites,  were  found  in  liberal 
abundance — but  not  a single  Indian  was  seen  other  than  the 
old  woman,  and  the  “brave,”  brought  with  them  as  guide. 

Provisions  becoming  exhausted  in  the  camp  at  Yo  Semite, 
and  the  outlook  for  collecting  the  scattered  Yo  Semites  very  dis- 
couraging, without  a prolonged  search  among  the  mountains 
around,  after  burning  up  the  Indian  food  supplies,  camp  furniture, 
and  huts,  as  the  only  available  means  now  at  command  for  com- 
pelling a surrender,  this  unsuccessful  campaign  was  closed  by  a 
return  of  the  battalion  to  camp  at  the  South  Fork. 

*For  full  description  of  all  such  articles,  with  the  fabrics  and  methods  of 
manufacture,  see  Bunnell’s  “ Discovery  of  the  Yo  Semite,”  pages  7S-80. 


64 


IJ\f  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


CAPTIVES  LEAVE  SOUTH  FORK  FOR  THE  RESERVATION. 

As  the  capture  of  any  additional  Indians,  for  the  present  at 
least,  was  strongly  problematical,  and  supplies  were  running  short, 
upon  the  arrival  of  the  Yo  Semite  expedition,  it  was  determined 
to  break  up  camp,  and  convey  such  Indians  as  had  been  secured, 
to  the  reservation  on  the  Fresno.  On  their  way  thither  the  com- 
plement of  “ captives  ” was  increased  about  one  hundred  by  the 
voluntary  surrender  of  that  number  to  Captain  Dill’s  command. 

An  appetizing  march  of  several  days  brought  the  entire 
cavalcade  to  within  a few  miles  of  their  intended  destination. 
The  general  deportment  of  the  Indians  had  been  such  as  to  suc- 
cessfully win  the  confidence  of  both  officers  and  men,  so  that  a 
strict  guard  over  them  was  considered  as  altogether  unnecessary. 
Under  these  conditions,  permission  was  asked  for  a large  portion 
of  the  command  to  accompany  Major  Savage  to  the  reservation. 
“The  Major  finally  assented  to  the  proposition,  saying,  ‘I  do  not 
suppose  the  Indians  can  be  driven  off,  or  be  induced  to  leave,  until 
they  have  had  the  feast  I have  promised ; besides,  they  will  want 
to  see  some  of  the  commissioners’  finery.  I have  been  delighting 
their  imaginations  with  descriptions  of  the  presents  in  store  for 
them.’  ” Therefore  Captain  Boling,  with  nine  men  as  camp  guard, 
was  the  only  force  left.  All  apprehensions  allayed,  the  kindly- 
hearted  Captain  told  his  men  to  take  their  sleep,  and  that  he  would 
watch,  as  he  was  not  sleepy.  “ Towards  morning  I took  another 
round,”  relates  Captain  Boling,  “and  finding  the  Indian  camp 
wrapped  in  slumber,  I concluded  to  take  a little  sleep  myself, 
until  daylight.  This  now  seems  unaccountable  to  me,  for  I am 
extremely  cautious  in  my  habits.  I confess  myself  guilty  of 
neglect  of  duty ; 1 should  have  taken  nothing  for  granted.  No 
one  can  imagine  my  surprise  and  mortification  when  I was 
told  that 

THE  INDIAN  CAMP  WAS  ENTIRELY  DESERTED, 

And  that  none  were  to  be  seen  except  the  one  asleep  by  our  camp- 
fire. Consternation  was  in  every  face,  as  not  one  of  the  three 
hundred  and  fifty  captives,  seen  in  such  apparently  peaceful 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


65 


slumber  that  night,  was  now  left  to  explain  the  cause  of  their 
hasty  departure.  Effort  in  pursuit  only  disclosed  their  successful 
exodus,  and  the  utter  hopelessness  of  one  officer  and  nine  men 
attempting  to  recapture  them.  No  choice  was  left,  therefore,  other 
than  for  these  to  report  themselves  at  head-quarters,  and  tell  their 
own  sad  story.  The  long-delayed  arrival  of  the  expected  caravan 
at  the  reservation,  gave  some  cause  for  uneasiness  there ; but  not 
one  was  prepared  to  realize  the  full  force  of  such  an  appalling- 
disclosure,  as,  that  every  one  of  the  Indians,  whom  they  had  been 
months  in  collecting,  were,  in  a single  night,  and  when  within  a 
few  miles  of  the  anticipated  goal,  all  scattered  abroad.  Still, 
however  reluctant  the  admission,  the  startling  fact  stood  boldly 
out,  that 

“ ’Tis  revelation  satisfies  all  doubts.” 

With  this  came  also  the  dawning  consciousness  of  some  unex- 
plainable cause  for  their  sudden  departure.  As  Kee-chee  had 
invariably  proven  himself  to  be  unswervingly  loyal  to  the 
interests  of  peace,  he  was  immediately  summoned,  for  both  con- 
ference and  service,  and  dispatched  among  the  affrighted  fugitives. 
Then  developed  the  certainty  that  on  the  preceding  eventful 
night  several  Chow-chilla  runners  had  visited  the  camp,  and 
cajoled  the  unsuspecting  captives  into  the  belief  that  they  were 
being  decoyed  into  a trap,  and  would  all  be  murdered.  They 
also  assured  them  that  Dr.  Wozencraft,  one  of  the  Commissioners, 
had  already  killed  Kee-chee,  the  principal  chief  of  their  united 
tribes,  and  that  there  was  a plot  on  foot  to  slaughter  every  one,  the 
moment  they  had  them  in  their  power.  These  grossly  infamous 
representations,  then,  very  naturally  caused  the  totality  of  the 
stampede.  Kee-chee’s  appearance  among  them,  alive,  was  not 
only  conclusive  proof  of  his  safety,  but  of  the  fraudulently  decep- 
tive stories  of  the  Chow-chillas.  His  personal  explanations  and 
assurances  soon  restored  their  confidence,  and  the  major  portion 
cheerfully  consented  to  seek  the  comforts  and  protection  of  the 
reservation,  where  they  expressed  sincere  regret  for  allowing 
themselves  to  be  so  readily  imposed  upon.  One  desire  now  was 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


66 

manifestly  uppermost,  the  speedy  punishment  of  the  Chow-chillas, 
for  being  the  cause  of  all  their  trouble. 

As  the  Yo  Semites  had  again  returned  to  the  valley,  and 
with  the  Chow-chillas  had  refused  to  respond  to  the  messages 
sent, 

A NEW  CAMPAIGN  WAS  RESOLVED  UPON. 

Accordingly  about  one  hundred  men,  led  by  Captains  Boling  and 
Dill,  and  under  the  command  of  Major  Savage  (who  was  shortly 
afterwards  summoned  to  return),  commenced  scouring  the  country 
in  all  directions  for  Indians — all  now  found  being  considered 
“hostiles.”  A large  band  of  Chow-chillas,  having  a war- dance, 
was  discovered  upon  the  south  bank  of  the  main  San  Joaquin 
River,  arranged  to  give  battle;  but,  after  crossing  the  stream,  in 
full  expectation  of  meeting  them,  the  enemy  had  fled.  Examina- 
tion of  a smouldering  fire  gave  evidence  that  the  body  of  Jose  Bey, 
with  his  articles  of  value,  had  just  been  consumed. 

All  the  lodges  and  stores  were  destroyed,  and  the  trail  of  the 
retreating  Indians  taken ; but  after  exploring  this  entire  section, 
crossing  and  recrossing  the  swollen  streams,  and  enduring  many 
hardships,  not  a single  Indian  was  either  killed  or  captured. 
The  destruction  of  supplies,  and  starving  them  out,  was  now  con- 
sidered about  the  only  way  of  reaching  and  successfully  conquer- 
ing them,  and  the  troops  marched  back  to  the  Fresno.  This  view 
was  proven  to  be  correct,  for  not  many  days  had  elapsed  after 
their  return,  when  Tom-kit  and  Frederico,  successors  to  Jose  Rey, 
as  chief  of  the  Chow-chillas,  with  much  bombastic  gasconading, 
finally  made  a treaty,  and  accepted  terms.  This  ended  the  war 
with  this  defiant  and  once  powerful  tribe,  leaving  only  the 
“ Grizzlies  ” to  grapple  with. 

THE  SECOND  EXPEDITION  TO  THE  YO  SEMITES. 

Suitable  preparations  completed,  the  advance  was  commenced 
under  Captain  Boling — “the  services  of  Major  Savage  being 
indispensable  to  the  Commissioners  ” — the  main  column  follow- 
ing under  Lieutenant  Chandler,  In  the  hope  of  surprising  the 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


67 


Indians,  if  possible,  or  “ cut  off  the  escape  of  the  women  and 
children,  and  thus  bring  the  warriors  to  terms/’  a rapid  and 
stealthy  march  was  made,  and  the  valley  quietly  entered,  but  no 
Indians  were  discovered.  A few  newly  built  but  now  deserted 
huts,  with  heaps  of  hulled  acorns,  some  of  which  had  been  set  on 
fire,  and  were  still  burning,  that  had  evidently  been  prepared  for 
human  transportation  across  the  Sierras,  were  the  only  visible 
signs  of  Indian  life.  The  entrance  of  the  pursuers  to  the  valley 
had  evidently  been  anticipated  and  closely  watched. 

THREE  OF  TEN-IE-YA’S  SONS  TAKEN  PRISONERS. 

Their  advance,  however,  was  soon  to  be  rewarded  by  the  sight  of 
living  forms  flitting  from  tree  to  tree,  and  from  rock  to  rock ; these 
proving  to  be  a portion  of  the  enemy  of  which  they  were  in  search, 
a lively  chase  commenced  that  resulted  in  the  capture  of  five 
Indians,  probably  scouts,  three  of  whom  were  sons  of  Ten-ie-ya, 
and  as  they  had  been  caught  near  three  singularly  uniform 
mountain  peaks,  these  peaks  were  called,  and  are  still  known,  as 
“ The  Three  Brothers.”  Hence  the  derivation  of  that  appellation. 

An  excited  search  in  different  directions  speedily  disclosed 
unmistakable  indications  of  the  near  proximity  of  Indians,  in  con- 
siderable numbers,  and  who  were  manifestly  secreting  themselves 
among  the  rocky. talus  bordering  the  open  meadows,  or  on  the 
adjacent  cliffs,  and  were  then  probably  espying  all  their  move- 
ments. Countless  tracks,  baskets,  scattered  acorns,  and  other 
“ signs,”  apparently  indicated  the  way  to  their  hiding-place,  or 
trail  of  exit.  These  were  at  first  eagerly  followed,  but  gradually 
the  conviction  forced  itself  upon  some  that  they  had  been  inten- 
tionally placed  there  by  the  Indians  to 

LURE  THEIR  PURSUERS  INTO  A TRAP; 

While  others,  more  valorous  than  prudent,  hurried  for  the  foe,  to 
“ beard  the  lion  in  his  den.”  This  incautious  temerity  was  at  the 
risk  of  their  lives,  for  huge  masses  of  rock  came  thundering  down ; 
fortunately,  however,  some  projecting  cliffs,  under  which  they 
were  enabled  to  speedily  find  shelter,  saved  them  from  exterm  ina- 


68 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


tion.  One  man,  named  Spencer,  was  struck  by  a fragment  and 
hurled  over  tifty  feet;  yet  he,  although  badly  cut  and  bruised, 
eventually  recovered.  This  was  carrying  out  the  threatened 
method  of  warfare  indicated  by  Kee-chee. 

Ten-ie-ya’s  sons  made  no  secret  of  the  certainty  that  the  old 
chief  was  near,  and  intimated  that  he  would  in  nowise  be  averse 
to  coming  in,  if  sent  for,  to  “have  a talk  with  the  white  chief.” 
One  son,  and  the  son-in-law  of  Ten-ie-ya,  were  accordingly  dis- 
patched for  him,  in  charge  of  Dr.  Bunnell,  the  other  prisoners 
being  kept  as  hostages.  Meeting  the  sorrowful  and  angry  cav- 
alcade with  the  wounded  man,  upon  the  way,  it  required  all  the 
doctor’s  firmness  to  prevent  their  shooting  the  messenger  pris- 
oners under  his  charge  upon  the  spot.*  After  safely  escorting 
them  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  where  the  trail  leaves  the  canon,-)* 
he  allowed  the  Indians  to  proceed  upon  their  mission,  and 
returned  to  camp;  calling,  however,  on  the  way  to  dress  the 
wounds  of  the  suffering  soldier. 

ESCAPE  OF  A PKISONEK. 

While  awaiting  the  arrival  of  tidings  of,  or  from,  Ten-ie-ya, 
and  indulging  in  the  restful  recreation  of  witnessing  the  expert 
use  of  the  bow  and  arrow  by  the  Indians,  the  target  having  been  set 
at  long  range;  while  pretending  to  examine  the  closeness  of  the 
shots,  one  of  the  hostages  made  his  successful  escape  up  the  North 
Canon — naturally  to  the  indescribable  mortification  of  those 
ostensibly  in  charge.  To  avoid  a repetition  of  so  undesirable  a 
circumstance,  the  remaining  two  were  tied  together,  and,  for  still 
greater  security,  had  been  fastened  to  a tree;  but  later,  when  sup- 
posing that  their  movements  had  been  unnoticed,  they  succeeded 
in  releasing  themselves,  and  immediately  started  upon  the  run 
for  the  same  canon  that  had  afforded  escape  for  their  companion. 
It  is  more  than  presumable  that  these  proceedings  had  been 

*For  full  and  graphic  recitals  of  these  adventures,  read  “Discovery  of  the 
Yosemite.” 

fThis  is  the  old  and  long-used  Indian  trail  by  Mt.  Watkins  to  Lake  Ten-ie-ya 
and  Mono. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


69 


approvingly  watched  by  the  guard,  who,  it  is  supposed,  was 
longingly  anxious  for  an  excusable  opportunity  for  killing  them 
and  effectually  ridding  both  the  camp  and  the  country  of  their 
presence,  although  contrary  to  the  orders  and  policy  of  those  in 
command.  Be  that  as  it  may, 

ten-ie-ya’s  youngest  son  was  shot  dead, 

When  scarcely  twenty  yards  from  the  tree  to  which  he  had  been 
bound;  the  other  would  have  shared  the  same  fate  but  for  “ a 
bullet-pouch  that  had  been  hung  upon  the  muzzle  of  one  of  the 
guard’s  rifles;”  owing  to  this  circumstance  he  escaped  unharmed. 
This  act  was  uniformly  deplored  and  condemned  by  nearly  the 
whole  command,  and  its  perpetrators  deservedly  shunned  and 
despised  by  all,  from  that  time  thenceforward. 

MESSENGERS  SENT  TO  TEN-IE-YA. 

The  morning  passed*  and  the  hour  of  ten  arrived,  without  Ten-ie-ya. 
Captain  Boling  then  sent  out  Sandino  and  the  scouts  to  hunt  for  him,  and, 
if  found,  to  notify  him  that  he  was  expected.  Sandino  soon  came  back, 
and  reported  that  he  had  seen  Ten-ie-ya  and  talked  with  him;  but  that 
he  was  unable  to  reach  him  from  below,  on  account  of  the  steepness  of 
the  ledge.  Sandino  reported  that  Ten-ie-ya  was  unwilling  to  come  in; 
that  he  expressed  a determination  not  to  go  to  the  Fresno.  He  would 
make  peace  with  the  white  chief,  if  he  would  be  allowed  to  remain  in  his 
own  territory.  Neither  he  nor  his  people  would  go  to  the  valley  while  the 
white  men  were  there.  They  would  stay  upon  the  mountains,  or  go  to  the 
Monos. 

CAPTURE  OF  TEN-IE-YA. 

This  positive,  though  somewhat  unexpected  answer  from  the 
old  chief,  could  not  well  be  misunderstood,  and  Captain  Boling 
promptly  resolved  upon  the  execution  of  such  measures  as  would 
compel  acquiescence  in  his  wishes.  Having  ascertained  from 
Sandino  the  probable  locality  occupied  by  Ten-ie-ya  upon  the 
cliff,  he  dispatched  Lieutenant  Chandler  and  a necessary  force, 
accompanied  by  a few  Noot-chii  and  Po-ho-no-chee  scouts,  for  the 
purpose  of  surrounding  and  bringing  him  into  camp,  according 


* “Discovery  of  the  Yosemite.’’ 


70 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


to  orders,  alive  if  'possible.  He  was  found  near  the  expected 
place,  eagerly  scanning  every  movement  passing  below,  and, 
to  appearance,  utterly  unconscious  of  the  approach  of  the  platoon. 

The  unwelcome  discovery  made,  and  seeing  that  his  retreat  above 
had  been  cut  off,  Ten-ie-ya  at  first  ran  along  westerly,  on  the  slope  of  the 
mountain  towards  Indian  Canon;*  but  finding  that  he  was  cut  ofi*  in  that 
direction  also,  by  the  Noot-chii  and  Po-ho-no-chee  scouts,  he  turned  and 
came  down  a trail,  through  an  oak  tree  top  to  the  valley,  which  Sandino  _ 
had  by  this  time  reached,  and  where  he  had  been  attracted  by  the  noise 
made  in  pursuit.  Lieutenant  Chandler  had  not  climbed  up  the  trail,  and 
hearing  Sandino’s  cry  for  help,  and  the  noise  above  him,  he  was  able  to 
reach  the  place  when  Ten-ie-ya  descended,  in  time  to  secure  him.  Ten- 
ie-ya  said  the  men  above  him  were  rolling  down  stones,  and  he  did  not 
like  to  go  up,  as  they  broke  and  flew  everywhere;  for  that  reason  he  came 
down.  Ten-ie-ya  accompanied  his  captors  wfithout  making  any  resistance, 
although  he  strongly  censured  the  Indians  for  being  instrumental  in  his 
capture.t 

With  the  proud  bearing  of  a chief  who  represented  a long 
line  of  ancestors,  and  a tribe  that  commanded  the  respectful  fear 
of  surrounding  bands,  although  a prisoner,  he  walked  almost 
defiantly  erect  into  camp.  The  first  object  that  met  his  gaze 
upon  arrival  was  the  dead  body  of  his  favorite  son.  Here  let  us 
silently  drop  the  mantle  of  sympathetic  sorrow  over  the  feelings 
of  a bereaved  father,  while  we  make  sad  confession  that 

‘ ‘ When  all  is  past,  it  is  humbling  to  tread 
O’er  the  weltering  field  of  the  tombless  dead.” 

The  most  benignant  condolence,  followed  by  the  fullest  regretful 
explanations,  could  not  restore  his  latest-born  son.  Not  a word 
escaped  his  quivering  lips  for  many  days.  The  most  persistent 
of  questionings  elicited  no  articulate  response. 

As  Ten-ie-ya  would  give  no  clew  to  the  whereabouts  of  his 
people,  even  if  he  knew  (and  which  was  very  doubtful)  a well- 
organized  and  scrutinizing  search  was  instituted  in  many  direc- 
tions, and  mostly  on  foot.  While  these  were  being  systematically 

*This  was  the  name  given  to  the  “ North  Canon”  after  the  escape  of  the 
Indian  fugitives  up  it;  and  by  which  it  has  ever  since  been  known. 

t Bunnell’s  ‘‘Discovery  of  the  Yosemite.” 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


71 


conducted  among  the  mountainous  surroundings  of  the  valley, 
there  arose  considerable  excitement  within  it,  from 

TEN-IE-YA  ATTEMPTING  HIS  ESCAPE. 

But  “as  he  rushed  from  his  keeper,  Cameron  dashed  after  and 
caught  him  before  he  was  able  to  plunge  into  and  swim  the  river.” 
Supposing  that  he  was  to  be  condemned  and  shot  for  this,  when  led 
to  Captain  Boling,  whom  he  considered  responsible  for  the  loss  of 
his  son,  his  feelings  at  last  found  utterance  in  the  following  char- 
acteristic  speech,  as  presented  by  Dr.  Bunnell: — 

Kill  me , sir.  Captain!  Yes,  kill  me,  as  you  killed  my  son;  as  you 
would  kill  my  people  if  they  were  to  come  to  you!  You  would  kill  all 
my  race  if  you  had  the  power.  Yes,  sir,  American,  you  can  now  tell  your 
warriors  to  kill  the  old  chief;  you  have  made  me  sorrowful,  my  life  dark; 
you  killed  the  child  of  my  heart,  why  not  kill  the  father  ? But  wait  a 
little;  when  I am  dead,  I will  call  to  my  people  to  come  to  you;  I will  call 
louder  than  you  have  had  me  call  [referring  to  the  expressed  wishes  of  the 
officers  that  he  should  call  in  his  people];  that  they  shall  hear  me  in  their 
sleep,  and  come  to  avenge  the  death  of  their  chief  and  his  son.  Yes,  sir, 
American,  my  spirit  will  make  trouble  for  you  and  your  people,  as  you 
have  caused  trouble  to  me  and  my  people.  With  the  wizards  I will  follow 
the  white  men  and  make  them  fear  me.  You  may  kill  me,  sir,  Captain, 
but  you  shall  not  live  in  peace.  I will  follow  in  your  footsteps,  I will  not 
leave  my  home,  but  be  with  the  spirits  among  the  rocks,  the  water-falls, 
in  the  rivers  and  the  winds;  wheresoever  you  go,  I will  be  with  you.  You 
will  not  see  me,  but  you  will  fear  the  spirit  of  the  old  chief,  and  grow 
cold.*  The  great  spirits  have  spoken!  I have  done. 

Instead  of  killing  him,  however,  they  regaled  him  with  a 
good  supper,  their  sorrow  changing  into  admiring  veneration  for 
his  fearless  bravery. 

As  sundry  explorations  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
valley  had  brought  no  hoped-for  results,  an  expedition  was 
resolved  upon  to  the  High  Sierra,  and,  if  necessary,  across  them. 
Ten-ie-ya  was  taken  with  them. 

*It  is  claimed  by  all  Indian  “ Medicine  Men  ” that  the  presence  of  a spirit  is 
announced  by  a cool  breeze,  and  that  sometimes  they  turn  cold  and  shake  as  with 
an  ague.- — Dr.  Bunnell. 


72 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


SURPRISE  OF  THE  INDIAN  VILLAGE. 

Before  advancing  over  twenty  miles  above  the  valley,  the  blue 
ascending  smoke  of  some  camp  fires  indicated  the  near  vicinity  of 
an  Indian  village.  Cautiously  approaching  it,  and  after  captur- 
ing their  outlying  pickets,  they  found  the  Yo  Semites  in  force  by 
a beautiful  lake.  Judiciously  moving  upon  it,  before  they  were 
discovered  they  succeeded  in  surrounding  and  surprising  the 
whole,  so  that  not  one  of  them  had  time  or  opportunity  for  escap- 
ing. This  was  a master-stroke  of  good  fortune.  Finding  them- 
selves utterly  powerless,  they  piteously  cried  out  for  peace.  There 
was  not  even  the  semblance  of  resistance  or  of  apparent  objection. 
Here  Ten-ie-ya  rejoined  his  four  squaws,  and  their  re-union  once 
more  was  a joy- giving  event.  As  all  seemed  worn  out  with 
watching,  and  were  in  a starving  condition,  they  gave  abundant 
proof  of  abject  willingness  to  accept  almost  any  terms. 

THE  NAMING  OF  LAKE  TEN-IE-YA. 

“ Looking  back  to  the  lovely  little  lake,”  writes  Dr.  Bunnell, 
where  we  had  been  encamped  during  the  night,  and  watching 
Ten-ie-ya  as  he  ascended  to  our  group,  I suggested  to  Captain 
Boling  that  we  name  the  lake  after  the  old  chief,  and  call  it 
“Lake  Ten-ie-ya.’  ” In  concurrent  response  to  this,  the  Captain, 
addressing  those  assembled,  replied:  “■  Gentlemen,  I think  the 

name  an  appropriate  one,  and  shall  use  it  in  my  report  of  the 
expedition.  Beside  this,  it  is  rendering  a kind  of  justice  to  per- 
petuate the  name  of  the  old  chief.”  This,  therefore,  was  the 
origin  and  time  of  naming  one  of  the  most  charmingly  pictur- 
esque lakes  of  any  country,  concerning  which  more  will  be  said 
in  a future  chapter. 

THEY  MARCH  FOR  YO  SEMITE. 

The  total  number  of  Indians  found  here  was  thirty-five, 
“ nearly  all  of  whom  were  in  some  way  a part  of  the  family  of 
the  old  patriarch,  Ten-ie-ya.”  All  of  the  remainder  of  those  that 
had  escaped  were  supposed  to  have  joined  the  . Tuolumne  and 
Mono  Indians,  among  whom  they  had  intermarried.  Deeming  it 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY, \ 


7a 


better  to  proceed  with,  and  care  for,  those  already  in  safe-keeping, 
than  to  pursue  others  at  the  neglect  of  these,  and  against  orders, 
the  men  were  placed  under  guard,  and  the  women  and  children 
allowed  to  go  free,  and  in  this  manner  the  motley  cavalcade  took 
up  its  line  of  march. 

According  to  Indian  custom, 
the  women  performed  all  the 
manual  labor,  including  the 
carrying  of  all  their  heavy 
packs;  and  the  men  the  eat- 
ing, the  grumbling,  and  the 
sleeping.  This  arrangement, 
to  the  officers  in  charge,  was 
demurred  to  as  an  unequal 
division,  and  in  the  hope  of  ad- 
justing it,  and  facilitating  a 
more  rapid  advance  of  the 
entire  party,  the  men  were 
ordered  to  bear  a fair  share  of 
the  burdens.  Against  this, 
however,  to  the  amusing  sur- 
prise of  all,  the  squaws  them- 
selves were  the  most  violently 
opposed.  Ten-ie-ya,  it  is  said,  waxed  eloquent  against  such  an 
unheard-of  innovation  of  their  customs.  As  all  parties  in  interest 
were  averse  to  any  such  change,  it  was  accordingly  abandoned. 

END  OF  THE  MAKIPOSA  INDIAN  WAR. 

Diversified  by  numerous  scenes  and  experiences  by  the  way, 
every  captive  with  which  they  had  started  was  eventually  deliv- 
ered safely  over  to  the  Indian  Commissioners  at  the  Fresno,  and 
the  expedition  formally  commended  for  its  success.  This  virtu- 
ally terminated  the  Mariposa  Indian  War.  That  accomplished, 
the  Mariposa  Battalion  was  mustered  out  of  service,  July  1, 
1851.* 

*See  Elliott’s  “ History  of  Fresno  County,”  page  181. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

EARLY  HISTORICAL  INCIDENTS. 


Illhabits  gather  by  unseen  degrees. 

As  brooks  make' rivers,  rivers  ran  to  seas. 

— Dryden’s  Ovid,  Metamorphoses,  Bh.  XV. 

Guilt’s  a terrible  thing. 

— Ben  Jonson’s  Bartholomew  Fair. 

Angels  for  the  good  man’s  sin 

Weep  to  record,  and  blush  to  give  it  in. 

— Campbell’s  Pleasures  of  Hope. 

Chafing  under  the  restraint  attending  his  residence  at  the 
reservation,  in  addition  to  many  tribal  squabbles,  and  the 
ostensible  lack  of  dignity  showed  him  by  his  fellow-captives, 
Ten-ie-ya  implored  permission  to  return  to  his  old  tome  in  the 
mountains,  promising  faithfully  to  conform  to  every  requirement 
asked  of  him  by  the  Commissioners.  This  permission  was  event- 
ually conceded,  under  certain  conditions,  and  the  old  chief,  with 
his  family,  was  once  more  allowed  to  return  to  the  Yo  Semite. 
Other  members  of  his  tribe,  shortly  after  Ten-ie-ya’s  departure, 
silently  stole  away  from  the  reservation  and  joined  him;  “but  as 
no  complaints  were  made  by  their  chiefs,  it  was  understood  that 
they  were  glad  to  get  rid  of  them;  therefore  no  effort  was  made 
to  bring  them  back.” 

After  the  severe  lessons  already  taught  these  renegades,  it 
was  reasonable  to  suppose  that  they  would  have  accepted  the 
situation,  and  kept  upon  their  best  behavior,  but  with  the  return 
of  winter  came  also  the  Indians,  and  with  them  their  old  bad 
habits.  Numerous  animals  being  missed  from  their  pasture- 
grounds,  it  was  presumed  that  the  Yo  Semites  had  stolen  them; 
“but  as  some  of  them  were  found  in  the  possession  of  Mexicans, 
who  were  promptly  executed  for  the  theft,  no  charge  was  pre- 
ferred against  the  Yo  Semites.” 

(74) 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


( o 


N or  about  May  28th,  1852,*  a 
party  of  five  prospectors  for 
gold,  consisting  of  Messrs.  Tu- 
dor, Grover,  Sherman — or  Sher- 
bon — Babcock,  and  Bose,  left 
Coarse  Gold  Gulch,  Fresno 
County  (now  used  as  one  of  the 
stage  routes  between  Madera 
andWawona),  for  the  Yo  Semite 
Valley.  They  had  scarcely 
entered  it  before  they  were 
attacked  by  Indians,  that  lay 
in  ambush  among  the  rocks,  at 
the  foot  of  the  old  Indian  trail, 
as  Dr.  Bunnell  gives  it — were 


instantly  killed.  Tudor  was  seriously  wounded;  but  he  and  the 
others  secreted  themselves  among  the  rocks,  and  fought  the 
Indians,  until  darkness  enabled  them  to  make  good  their  escape. 


*Elliott’s  “ History  of  Fresno  County.” 
6 


76 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


The  arrival  of  the  survivors  in  Mariposa  with  the  exciting 
news  of  these  murders,  and  the  renewal  of  Indian  hostilities,  very 
naturally  stirred  up  the  old  defiant  hate,  and  the  Indian  Commis- 
sioners were  blamed  for  permitting  Ten-ie-ya’s  return.  It  was, 
moreover,  feared  that  this  would  be  a signal  for  the  wholesale 
desertion  of  Indians  from  the  reservation.  Instead  of  this, 
however,  those  living  on  the  outside  fled  within  for  protection, 
fearing  that  the  guilt  of  others  would  be  visited  upon  their 
own  heads. 

UNITED  STATES  EXPEDITION  SENT  AGAINST  THE  YO  SEMITES. 

The  officer  in  command  at  Fort  Miller,  on  the  San  Joaquin 
River,  was  informed,  by  special  courier,  of  these  murders;  when 
a detachment  of  regular  soldiers,  under  Lieutenant  Moore,  U.  S. 
A.,  was  immediately  sent  out  against  the  enemy,  accompanied  by 
scouts  and  guides  that  had  formed  portions  of  the  first  and  second 
expeditions,  and  a few  friends  of  the  murdered  men.  They  sur- 
prised and  captured  five  of  the  Indians;  the  others,  led  by  Ten- 
ie-ya,  fled  and  escaped.  The  naked  bodies  of  the  murdered  men 
were  found,  and  buried,  near  the  Pohono,  or  Bridal  Veil  Fall. 
Satisfied  of  the  proof  being  conclusive  that  the  Indians  caught 
were  the  blood-stained  murderers  of  the  whites,  the  clothing  of  the 
murdered  men  being  found  upon  their  persons,  Lieutenant  Moore 
ordered  them  to  be  shot  upon  the  spot. 

These  effectually  disposed  of,  Moore  and  his  forces,  after 
searching  for  the  remaining  Yo  Semites  in  their  hiding-places 
about  the  valley,  pursued  them  into,  and  even  across  the  moun- 
tains to,  the  Mono  country ; but  as  the  Indians  had  every  advan- 
tage, both  in  the  start,  and  in  their  knowledge  of  the  ways  and 
by-ways  of  escape,  they  were  never  overtaken,  and  the  command 
reluctantly  returned  to  Fort  Miller,  without  a single  prisoner 
as  a trophy. 

THE  YO  SEMITES  NEARLY'  EXTERMINATED  BY  THE  MONOS. 

Nothing  more  was  heard  of  the  Yo  Semites,  after  their  suc- 
cessful flight  to,  and  hiding  among,  the  Monos,  with  whom  they 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


77 


found  shelter  and  protection,  until  the  early  summer  of  1853, 
when,  being  dissatisfied  with  their  dependent  position,  and  more 
so  with  the  locality  assigned  them,  they  returned  once  more  to 
the  Yo  Semite  Valley.  Fearing  the  just  retaliation  of  the  whites, 
however,  they  made  their  abiding  places  among  the  talus, 
whence  they  could  notice  every  movement  of  the  enemy,  without 
themselves  being  seen.  There  are  several  of  these  places  of  shelter 
still  to  be  found  among  the  rocks  near  Indian  Canon,  and  elsewhere. 

Life,  in  their  old  home,  unspiced  with  mischief,  became 
unbearably  monotonous  to  them  after  the  habit  had  been  acquired, 
and  learning  through  their  runners  that  the  Monos  had  stolen  a 
large  band  of  fine  horses  from  the  vicinity  of  Los  Angeles,  the 
Yo  Semites  became  jealously  uneasy,  and  planned  a foraging 
excursion,  to  obtain  some  of  this  living  plunder  for  their  own  use ; 
indulging  the  impression  that  it  would  be  safer,  under  present 
circumstances,  to  steal  from  the  Monos  than  from  the  whites.  The 
raid  was  accordingly  executed  with  masterly  cunning,  and  their 
arrival  with  the  stolen  horses  successfully  accomplished.  By  this 
time  they  had  mustered  sufficient  courage  to  form  an  encamp- 
ment down  in  the  valley,  near  the  mouth  of  Indian  Canon, 
where,  according  to  Dr.  Bunnell,  who  is  probably  the  best  informed 
of  any  man  living,  on  such  topics: — 

After  a few  days’  delay,  and  thinking  themselves  secure,  they  killed 
one  or  more  of  the  horses,  and  were  in  the  enjoyment  of  a grand  feast  in 
honor  of  their  return,  when  the  Monos  pounced  down  upon  them. 
Their  gluttony  seemed  to  have  rendered  them  oblivious  to  all  danger  to 
themselves,  and  of  the  ingratitude  by  which  the  feast  had  been  supplied. 
Like  sloths,  they  appear  to  have  been  asleep  after  having  surfeited  their 
appetites.  They  were  surprised  in  their  wigwams  by  the  wronged  and 
vengeful  Monos,  and  before  they  could  rally  for  the  fight,  the  treacherous 
old  chief  was  struck  down  by  the  hand  of  a powerful  young  Mono  chief. 

DEATH  OF  TEX-IE-YA,  THE  LAST  CHIEF  OF  THE  YO  SEMITES. 

Ten-ie-ya  had  been  the  principal  object  of  attack  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  assault,  but  he  had  held  the  others  at  bay  until  discovered 
by  the  young  chief,  who,  having  exhausted  his  supply  of  arrows,  seized  a 
fragment  of  rock  and  hurled  it  with  such  force  as  to  crush  the  skull  of  “ the 
old  Grizzly.”  As  Ten-ie-ya  fell,  other  stones  were  cast  upon  him  by  the 


78 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


attacking  party,  after  Pai-ute  custom,  until  he  was  literally  stoned  to  death. 
All  but  eight  of  Ten-ie-ya’s  young  braves  were  killed;  these  escaped  down 
the  valley,  and  through  the  caiion  below.  The  old  men  and  women  who 
survived  the  first  assault  were  permitted  to  escape  from  the  valley. 
The  young  women  and  children  were  made  captives,  and  taken  across  the 
mountains  to  be  held  as  slaves  or  drudges  to  their  captors. 

Thus  substantially  ended  the  once  famous  tribe  of  the  Yo 
Semites.  The  few  that  escaped  eventually  found  their  way  to 
“Hunt’s  Store”  on  the  Fresno.  It  was  from  these  that  we 
obtained  our  Indian  guides  in  1855,  as  related  in  the  ensuing 
chapter.  # 

DEATH  OF  MAJOR  SAVAGE. 

Before  closing  this  recital,  it  may  not  be  deemed  irrelevant  to 
state  that  Major  Savage,  the  chosen  officer  of  command  for  the 
Mariposa  Battalion,  fearing  that  the  best  interests  of  the  Indians 
were  being  jeoparded  by  the  course  of  speculative  and  unscrupu- 
lous men,  denounced  some  of  the  leaders  in  unmeasured  terms. 
This  brought  on  a personal  altercation,  and  re-encounter,  between 
Savage  and  a man  named  Harvey,  which  ended  in  the  death  of 
Savage,  August,  1852. 

The  Indian  tribes  represented  in  the  Peace  Treaty  Were  as 
follows:  The  Howechais,  Chookchancies,  Chowchillas,  Pohono- 
ches,  Nootchoos,  Pitcaches,  Capoos,  Toomanehs,  Tallinchees, 
Poskesas,  Wachahets,  Itaches,  Choenemnes,  Chokimenas,  Notoho- 
tos,  and  Narmelches — 16.* 

As  Dr.  Bunnell  most  graphically  states:  “It  was  a well- 
known  fact  that  these  people  [the  Indians]  preferred  horse-flesh 
and  their  acorn  jelly  to  the  rations  of  beef  that  were  supposed  to 
have  been  issued  by  the  Government;”  and,  moreover,  as  an  ulti- 
mate sequence,  the  reservation  on  the  Fresno  gradually  became 
unpopular  on  this  account,  but  mainly,  from  bad  management; 
was  afterwards  abolished  by  the  Government;  and,  finally,  its 
lands  and  buildings  were  gobbled  up  by  sharp-sighted,  if  not 
unprincipled  men  who,  like  many  others  of  that  class,  became 
rich  out  of  the  acquisition. 

* Elliott’s  History  of  Fresno  County.” 


CHAPTER  VII. 

FIRST  TOURIST  VISITORS  TO  YO  SEMITE. 

God  is  the  author,  men  are  only  the  players. 

— Balzac. 

There  are  two  worlds;  the  world  that  we  can  measure  with  line  and  rule,  and 
the  world  that  we  feel  with  our  hearts  and  imaginations. 

— Leigh  Hunt’s  Men,  Women,  and  Books. 

And  this  our  life,  exempt  from  public  haunt, 

Finds  tongues  in  trees,  books  in  the  running  brooks, 

Sermons  in  stones  and  good  in  everything. 

—Shakespeare’s  As  You  Like  It. 

Upon  the  return  of  the  Mariposa  Battalion  to  the  settlements 
— the  exploits  of  which  are  briefly  outlined  in  chapters  two  and 
three — and  when,  like 

“ The  broken  soldier,  kindly  bade  to  stay, 

Sat  by  his  fire,  and  talked  the  night  away,” 

They  recounted  their 

“ Moving  accidents  by  flood  and  field,” 

But  little  seems  to  have  been  said,  and  that  little  very  casually, 
about  the  marvelous  grandeur  of  the  Yo  Semite,  at  least  but 
little  found  its  way,  impressibly,  to  the  public  through  the  press 
of  that  day.  It  is  therefore  only  a historical  verity  to  confess 
that,  but  for  the  contemplated  publication  of  an  -illustrated  Cal- 
ifornia monthly — afterwards  issued  for  a number  of  years  in  San 
Francisco — its  merely  fortuitous  mention  would  probably  have 
escaped  the  attention  of  the  writer  altogether  as  it  seemed  to  have 
done  that  of  the  public.  As  the  account  given,  however,  men- 
tioned the  existence  of  “ a water-fall  nearly  a thousand  feet  high,’' 
it  was  sufficient  to  suggest  a series  of  ruminating  queries.  A 
water-fall  a thousand  feet  in  height,  and  that  is  in  California  ? A 
thousand  feet  ? Why,  Niagara  is  only  one  hundred  and  sixty- 

(79) 


80 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


four  feet  high!  A thousand  feet!!  The  scrap  containing  this 
startling  and  valuable  statement,  meager  though  it  was,  was 
carefully  treasured. 

THE  FIRST  TOURIST  PARTY. 

About  the  twentieth  of  June,  1855 — some  four  years  after 
Yo  Semite  had  been  first  seen  by  white  men,  and  when  entirely 
unaware  of  the  sublime  mountain  scenery  afterwards  found  there — 
the  “water-fall  a thousand  feet  high  ” induced  the  writer  to  form 
a party  to  visit  it.  That  party — whose  names  are  also  given  in  a 
previous  chapter — consisted  of  the  then  well-known  artist,  Thomas 
Ayres  (who  had  been  specially  engaged  by  the  writer  to  portray 
the  majesty  and  beauty  of  the  lofty  water-fall  expected  to  be 
found  there),  Walter  Millard,  and  J.  M.  Hutchings.  Mr.  Alexan- 
der Stair  afterwards  joined  us  at  Mariposa. 

Upon  our  arrival  at  Mariposa,  whence  the  principal  mem- 
bers of  the  battalion  had  started  out  against  the  Indians,  in 
1851.  to  our  surprise,  the  very  existence  of  such  a place  as  the 
Yo  Semite  Yalley,  was  almost  unknown  to  a very  large  propor- 
tion of  its  residents.  Numerous  and  persistent  inquiries,  however, 
eventually  revealed  the  fact  that  a man  named — say — Carter,  was 
one  of  those  who  had  gone  out  against  the  Indians,  in  1851. 
Accordingly,  Mr.  Carter’s  residence  was  anxiously  inquired  for, 
and  finally  found  about  two  miles  below  town.  Mr.  Carter  was 
at  home. 

“ Is  this  Mr.  Carter  ? ” 

“ Yes,  sir;  it  is.” 

“You  were  a member  of  Company  B,  Captain  Boling’s,^  I 
believe,  during  the  Indian  campaign  of  1851  ? ” 

“ Yes,  sir;  I was.” 

“ Did  you  go  to  the  Yo  Semite  Yalley  with  that  company  ? ” 

“I  did,  sir.” 

“ Then  you  are  the  very  man  that  we  wanted  to  find.  We 
have  just  arrived  here  from  San  Francisco,  and  want  to  learn 
our  way  to  that  valley.  Will  you,  therefore,  please  to  give  us 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


81 


such  plain  directions,  that  we  cannot  possibly  misunderstand 
them,  so  that  we  can  get  there  ? ” He  looked  at  us  in  bewildered 
and  nervous  astonishment,  and  replied: — 

“ Me,  sir  ? I couldn’t  do  it.  I am  not  worth  a worn-out 
old  pick  at  that  business.  Why,  bless  your  life,  I only  live  about 
two  miles  from  town,  and  if  I don’t  notice  particularly  what  I 
am  about,  I am  sure  to  take  the  wrong  trail,  and  get  lost.  The 
fact  is,  sir,  I am  about  the  poorest  man  you  could  have  come  to, 
on  that  business.  Now  if  you  had  only  gone  to  John  Fowler’s, 
John  could  have  told  you  all  about  it.  John  Fowler  is  the  man 
that  you  want.” 

“ Where  does  he  live  ? ” 

“ Only  about  a mile  and  a quarter  from  here.  You  couldn’t 
very  well  miss  the  trail,  if  you  were  to  turn  to  the  left  at  the 
bottom  of  this  ravine;  about  two  hundred  yards  from  there,  by 
bearing  a little  to  the  right,  you  will  cross  Blanket  Ridge  into 
Shay’s  Gulch;  well,  you  follow  that  down  nearly  to  the  mouth, 
where  you  go  over  a rocky  point  into  Slum-gullion  Creek ; here, 
let  me  caution  you  to  keep  a sharp  lookout  for  miner’s  prospect- 
ing holes,  that  are  full  of  soft  mud,  although  apparently  dry  and 
hard  on  the  top ; for,  if  you  ever  walk  into  one  of  those,  the  chances 
are  against  your  ever  getting  out,  to  say  nothing  about  the  bright 
red  color  you  would  be  painted,  if  you  should  come  out  at  all. 
Well,  John  Fowler’s  cabin  is  on  the  west  side  of  Slum-gullion 
Creek,  about  three-quarters  of  a mile  above  where  you  first  strike 
it.  If  John  hasn’t  gone  to  town — and  I don’t  think  this  is  his 
day  for  going — he  can  give  you  all  the  directions.” 

So  we  thanked  Mr.  Carter  for  his  information,  wished  him 
good-day,  and  set  out  in  search  of  “ John  Fowler’s.”  Many  were 
the 

INTERESTING  OLD-TIME  MINING  SCENES 

That  we  witnessed  by  the  way,  and  which,  of.  themselves,  would 
have  been  sufficient,  under  ordinary  circumstances,  to  fully  compen- 
sate us  for  our  jaunt,  and  even  now  they  beguiled  and  rewarded 
our  every  footstep.  Perseverance  is  generally  crowned  with  sue- 


82 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


cess,  and  although  the  day  was  sultry,  and  the  trail  sometimes 
doubtful  as  well  as  rough,  we  finally  found  ourselves  at  the  door 
of  Mr.  Fowler’s  cabin.  According  to  the  almost  invariable  custom 
among  gold  miners,  no  matter  how  rough  their  exteriors,  we 
were  most  courteously  re- 
ceived. His  answers  to  our 
questions  soon  disclosed  the 
fact  that  although  a mem- 
ber of  the  expedition  of 
1851,  and  had  entered  the 
valley  with  the  others,  hav- 
ing stood  guard  a good  deal 
at  night,  he  generally  felt 
too  sleepy  in  the  day-time 
to  take  particular  notice 
of  the  country  over  which 
they  were  traveling.  He 
could  probably  give  us  some 
general  directions,  yet  they 
would  not  be  sufficiently 
consecutive  to  enable  us 
to  follow  them.  But  there 
was  a member  of  Company 
C,  named  Lovejoy,  who  could  accommodate  us  with  the  very 
knowledge  we  were  seeking. 

Accordingly,  Mr.  Lovejoy  was  sought  after,  and  found. 
From  him  we  ascertained,  not  the  route  to  the  Yo  Semite  Yalley, 
but  that  he  had  been  the  undisputed  owner  of  a bad  sick-head- 
ache,  which  he  had  kept  in  unquestioned  possession  for  several 
successive  days,  when  on  the  march ; and  that,  as  a consequence, 
he  had  noticed  nothing  outside,  or  apart  from  that.  He  could 
not  tell  us  anything.  Finally,  a number  of  regretful  shadows 
began  to  file  into  the  furrows  of  his  sun-burned  face,  and  to 
gather  among  the  wrinkles  at  the  corners  of  his  eyes,  possibly  at 
the  thought  of  the  distance  we  had  journeyed  to  find  him,  and 


Enchantment  Point— Too-un-yah. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


83 


the  little  satisfaction  he  had 
given  to  pay  us  for  our  time 
and  trouble.  Looking  stead- 
fastly and  musingly  into  our 
faces,  the  shadows  began  to 
lift,  and  the  wrinkles  to 
smooth  away,  as  though  a 
dawn  in  a-  intelligence  was 
breaking  slowly  through  him 
to  our  relief,  as  he  exclaimed: 
“Gentlemen!  I have  it  at  last! 
There  is  Thomas  Osborne, 
who  lives  down  at  Bogus 
Thunder  Bar,  not  over  a mile 
from  here,  who  can,”  etc.  etc. 
So  we  called  on  Mr.  Osborne, 
and  Mr.  Osborne  sent  us  to 
Mr  Giles,  and  Mr.  Giles  re- 
ferred us  to  Mr.  Harris,  and 
Mr.  Harris  directed  us  to  some 
one  else,  and  thus  we  contin- 
ued until,  at  last,  night  over- 
took us  when  questioning  the  eleventh  fraction  of  the  two  hundred 
and  four,  forming  the  Mariposa  Battalion.  The  outlook  for  the 
information  needed  was  not  the  most  inspiriting. 

In  this  dilemma  we  met  Captain  Boling,  the  gentleman  in 
charge  of  Company  B,  of  the  Mariposa  volunteers,  and  who, 
being  really  very  desirous  of  assisting  us  in  every  possible  manner, 
confessed  that  although  he  considered  himself  about  as  good  as  an 
expert  in  wood-craft,  could  not  now  find  the  way  to  Yo  Semite; 
as  the  trails  were  all  overgrown  with  grass  and  weeds;  and,  as  a 
matter  of  course,  if  he  could  not  find  the  way  there  himself,  it 
would  be  simply  impossible  for  him  to  describe  it  so  that  we  could 
find  it.  “No,”  said  he,  “if  I were  in  your  place,  gentlemen,  and 
wanted  to  go  to  the  Yo  Semite,  I should  first  make  a trip  to  John 


84  IN  TEE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 

Hunt’s  store  on  the  Fresno — -it  is  thirty  miles  directly  out  of  your 
way — but  there  you  will  find  the  few  Y o Semite  Indians  living  of 
the  entire  tribe;  tell  Mr.  Hunt  your  wants  and  wishes,  also  say 
to  him  that  I sent  you,  and  I am  satisfied  that  he  will  provide 
you  with  a couple  of  good  Indian  guides  who  can  take  you 
straight  to  the  spot.”  We  considered  this  most  excellent  advice, 
and,  so  expressing  it,  carried  out  his  recommendations. 

WE  EMPLOY  YO  SEMITE  INDIANS  TO  GUIDE  US  TO  THE  VALLEY. 

Mr.  Hunt  received  us  very  kindly,  and,  acceding  to  our 
request,  procured  us  two  of  the  most  intelligent  and  trustworthy 
Indians  that  he  had,  whose  names  were  Kos-sum  and  So-pin; 
and  on  the  following  day  we  set  out  upon  our  enigmatical  course 
for  the  valley. 


ho!  for  the  mountains. 

Believe  me  there  is  an  indescribable  charm  steals  over  the 
heart  when  wandering  among  the  untrodden  fastnesses  of  the 
mountains  for  the  first  time,  especially  under  circumstances  similar 
to  ours.  W e were  entering  a mysterious  country — to  us  unknown. 
The  journey  before  us  was  full  of  uncertain  lights  and  shadows 
— so  might  its  ending  possibly  be.  Our  guides  were  Indians,  and 
from  a tribe  that  bore  no  enviable  reputation ; and  were,  more- 


TEE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


85 


over,  strangers  to  us.  They  were  conducting  us  among  the 
unbroken  solitudes  of  the  forest,  and  away  from  civilization. 

The  roads  near  the  settlements  left  behind,  there  was  scarcely 
the  outline  of  an  Indian  trail  visible ; unused  as  they  had  been,  all 
were  now  overgrown,  or  covered  up  with  leaves,  as  dead  as  the 
hopes  of  the  Indians  that  once  trod  them.  The  boughs  of  seem- 
ingly impenetrable  thickets  were  parted  asunder,  and  our  way 
forced  through  them  in  silence.  Not  a sound  relieved  the 
unbroken  stillness  of  our  discursive  progress.  Even  the  woods 
were  voiceless  with  the  songs  of  birds.  A band  of  deer  might 
occasionally  shoot  across  an  opening,  or  a covey  of  grouse  beat 
the  air  heavily  with  their  wings  in  clumsy  flight ; but  these  were 
all  that  could  be  seen  or  heard  of  life,  except  our  own  desultory 
or  nonsensical  converse. 

Stolidly  our  Indian  guides  advanced;  unquestioningly  we 
followed.  Not  a thought  of  inquietude,  or  of  distrust,  or  of  mis- 


W£  TAKE  A “ CUT-OKF. 


86 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


giving  intruded  itself.  As  a natural  sequence  to  a mountain 
jaunt  like  ours,  and  over  a supposed  Indian  trail — when  there 
was  one,  the  best  of  which  was  never  one  of  the  smoothest — our 
experiences  were  not  only  diversified  but  numerous.  Now  the 
ridge  up  which  we  were  ascending  was  at  an  angle  so  steep  that, 
when  on  foot,  the  tails  of  our  horses  would  be  used  as  hands  to 
assist  us  in  climbing  it.  At  times  there  was  a fear  lest  our 
animals  should  fall  over  backwards,  or  break  their  limbs  between 
bowlders.  Then  the  descent  would  become  so  rapid,  and  the  pine- 
needles  so  slippery,  that  riding  was  impossible,  and  pedestrianism 
brought  us  into  all  sorts  of  (un)  artistic  positions.  (See  illustra- 
tion on  preceding  page  as  well  as  on  this).  Sometimes  the  Indians 
would  cross  a ravine  in  one  place  and  ourselves  in  another. 


AND  WE  FIND  A “ CUT-OFF. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


87 


Of  course  we  knew  more  about  the  way  to  go  than  they  did 
— and  proved  it ! There  was  one  comforting  solace  to  all  our  mis- 
haps— they  brought  an  enjoyable  laugh  to  the  Indian  guides. 
These,  and  their  meals,  were  always  in  order,  and  ever  pleasantly 
taken.  Successively  and  successfully,  we  passed  through  dark 
and  apparently  interminable  forests,  penetrated  brushy  thickets, 
ascended  rocky  ridges,  and  descended  talus-covered  slopes,  until, 
on  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day  of  our  deeply  interesting  expedi- 
tion, we  suddenly  came  in  full  view  of 

THE  MARVELOUS  VALLEY. 

The  inapprehensible,  the  uninterpretable  profound,  was  at 
last  opened  up  before  us.  That  first  vision  into  its  wonderful 
depths  was  to  me  the  birth  of  an  indescribable  “ first  love  ” for 
scenic  grandeur  that  has  continued,  unchangeably,  to  this  hour, 
and  I gratefully  treasure  the  priceless  gift.  I trust,  moreover, 
to  be  forgiven  for  now  expressing  the  hope  that  my  long  after- 
life among  the  angel-winged  shadows  of  her  glorious  cliffs,  has 
given  heart-felt  proof  of  the  abiding  purity,  and  strength  of  that 
“ first  love  ” for  Yo  Semite. 

This  mere  glimpse  of  the  enchanting  prospect  seemed  to  fill 
our  souls  to  overflowing  with  gratified  delight,  that  was  only 
manifest  in  unbidden  tears.  Our  lips  were  speechless  from  thanks- 
giving awe.  Neither  the  language  of  tongue  nor  pen,  nor  the  most 
perfect  successes  of  art,  can  approximately  present  that  picture. 
It  was  sublimity  materialized  in  granite,  and  beauty  crystallized 
into  object  forms,  and  both  drawing  us  nearer  to  the  Infinite  One. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  tell  how  long  we  looked  lingeringly 
at  this  unexpected  revelation ; for, 

“ With  thee  conversing,  I forget  all  time.” 

Our  sketches  finished — the  first  probably  ever  taken — the  fast- 
lengthening shadows  admonished  a postponement  of  that  intensely 
pleasurable  experience,  and  in  response  we  hastened  our  descent 
to  the  camp-ground  on  the  floor  of  the  valley. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 
[From  Open-eia-noo-ab,  on  the  Old  Indian  Trail,] 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


89 


OUR  FIRST  SLEEP  IN  YO  SEMITE. 

It  was  late  in  the  night  before  the  nervous  excitement, 
created  by  our  imposing  surroundings,  permitted  “ sleep  to  come 
to  our  eyes,  or  slumber  to  our  eyelids;”  and,  even  then,  from  our 
dreams  arose  the  shadowy  forms  of  a new  species  of  genii ! After 
a substantial  breakfast,  made  palatable  by  that  best  of  all  sauces, 
a good  appetite,  and  the  sun  had  begun  to  wink  at  us  from 
between  the  pine  trees  on  the  mountain  tops,  or  to  throw  shimmer- 
ing lances  down  among  the  peaks  and  crags,  we  commenced  our 
entrancing  pilgrimage  up  the  valley. 

A few  advancing  footsteps  brought  us  to  the  foot  of  a fall, 
whose  charming  presence  had  long  challenged  our  admiration; 
and,  as  we  stood  watching  the  changing  drapery  of  its  watery 
folds,  the  silence  was  eventually  broken  by  my  remark,  “Is  it  not 
as  graceful,  and  as  beautiful,  as  the  veil  of  a bride?  ” to  which 
Mr.  Ayers  rejoined,  “ That  is  suggestive  of  a very  pretty  and 
most  apposite  name.  I propose  that  we  now  baptize  it,  and  call 
it,  ‘The  Bridal  Veil  Fall,’  as  one  that  is  both  characteristic  and 
euphonious.”  This  was  instantly  concurred  in  by  each  of  our 
party,  and  has  since  T)een  so  known,  and  called,  by  the  general 
public.  This,  then,  was  the  time,  and  these  the  circumstances, 
attending 

THE  ORIGIN  OF  THE  NAME  “BRIDAL  VEIL  FALL.” 

About  its  Indian  appellation  and  signification,  with  its  legends 
and  associations,  more  will  be  said  in  a future  chapter. 

Our  progress  upon  the  south  side  of  the  valley — the  one  on 
which  we  had  entered  it — -was  soon  estopped  by  an  immense 
deposit  of  rocky  talus,  that  compelled  us  to  ford  the  Merced 
River.  Advancing  upward  upon  its  northern  bank,  after  thread- 
ing our  way  among  trees,  or  around  huge  blocks  of  granite  that 
were  indiscriminately  scattered  about,  passing  scene  after  scene 
of  unutterable  sublimity,  and  sketching  those  deemed  most  note- 
worthy ; again  crossing  and  recrossing  the  river,  we  found 
ourselves  in  immediate  proximity  to  the  “water -fall  a thousand 


90 


JiV  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


feet  high/’  and  which  had  been  the  magnetic  incentive  to  our 
visit  to  Yo  Semite.  This,  from  our  measurements  of  prostrate 
pine-trees,  by  which  was  estimated  the  height  of  those  standing 
(as  we  had  no  instruments  with  us  adapted  to  such  purposes),  we 
deduced  its  altitude  to  be  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  hundred  feet ! 
By  subsequent  actual  measurements  of  the  State  Geological  sur- 
vey, its  absolute  height  is  given  at  2,634  feet;  with  which  those 
made  by  the  Wheeler  survey,  under  Lieut.  M.  M.  Macomb,  U.  S. 
A.,  very  closely  approximate.  This  inadequate  realization  of 
heights  at  Yo  Semite  is  often  strikingly  manifest  in  visitors,  on 
their  first  advent,  even  at  the  present  day. 


“to-coy-ae”  and  “ tis-sa-ack.”  (North,  and  South,  or,  Half  Dome.) 

[From  a sketch  taken  in  1855. J 


It  will  be  both  unnecessary  and  inexpedient  to  detain  the 
reader,  now,  with  detailed  recitals  of  the  many  objects  of  interest 
witnessed  on  this  ramble,  inasmuch  as  they  are  to  be  more  fully 
presented  with  illustrations,  in  succeeding  chapters.  It  may, 


THE  10  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


91 


however,  be  desirable  here  to  mention  that  our  explorations  were 
limited  to  the  valley,  terminating  at  Mirror  Lake — so  named  by 
our  party.  We  did  not  see  the  “Vernal”  or  “Nevada”  Falls, 
and  only  the  Too-lool-we-ack,  or  Glacier  Canon  Fall,  from  the 
Mirror  Lake  trail.  But  we  had  seen  sufficient  to  fill  our  hearts 
with  gratitude  that  the  All  Father  had  created  so  many  majestic 
and  beautiful  objects  for  human  eyes  to  feast  upon,  that  thereby 
humanity  might  grow  nearer  to  Him,  and  thenceforth  be  nobler, 
higher,  purer,  and  better  for  the  sight. 

We  spent  five  glorious  days  in  luxurious  scenic  banqueting 
here,  the  memory  of  which  is,  like  the  mercies  of  the  Almighty, 
“new  every  morning,  and  fresh  every  evening.”  We  left  it 
reluctantly,  even  when  our  sketch  and  note-books  were  as  full  to 
repletion  with  elevating  treasures,  as  our  souls  were  with  loving 
veneration  for  their  wonderful  Author.  I believe  that  each  one 
of  us  was  responsively  in  sympathy  with  Byron,  as  expressed  in 
the  following  lines  from  “Chilcle  Harold:” — 

“ I love  not  man  tlie  less,  but  Nature  more, 

From  these  our  interviews,  in  which  I steal 
From  all  I may  be,  or  have  been  before, 

To  mingle  with  the  Universe,  and  feel 

What  I can  ne’er  express,  yet  cannot  all  conceal.” 

THE  STORY  HERALDED. 

Our  return  to  the  settlements  was  the  signal  for  the  curious 
and  inquisitive  to  besiege  and  interview  us  with  eager  question- 
ings, to  ascertain  what  we  had  seen  and  experienced;  for  there 
was  a vague  novelty  in  such  a trip  in  those  days.  Among  these 
came  the  editor  of  the  Mariposa  Gazette,  Mr.  L.  A.  Holmes  (the 
memory  of  whom  is  still  lovingly  enshrined  in  the  hearts  of  all 
who  intimately  knew  him),  and  requested  a full  rehearsal  of  all 
the  sights  we  had  seen.  Compliance  with  so  reasonable  a request 
was  attended  with  a modest  exposition  of  our  sketches,  accom- 
panied with  explanatory  remarks  to  elucidate  them.  These  ended, 
Mr.  Holmes  thus  addressed  the  writer: — 

“ Mr.  H.,  I have  been  quite  ill  all  this  week.  My  paper  has 


92 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


to  make  an  appearance  day  after  to-morrow  or , and  I have 

not  been  able  to  write  a line  for  it,  yet.  You  can  therefore  see 
that  you  would  infinitely  oblige  me,  if  you  were  to  sit  down  at 
that  table  there  and  throw  me  off  an  article  upon  what  you  have 
seen  in  this  county,  to  help  me  out.” 

The  response  promptly  came,  “All  right.  I will  do  so.  I 
take  real  pleasure  in  helping  a man  out  of  a corner,  if  I can,  when 
he  finds  himself  in  one.”  Accordingly,  a descriptive  sketch  of 
what  had  been  seen  was  written  for  Mr.  Holmes,  and  was  pub- 
lished in  the  Mariposa  Gazette  of  about  July  12,  1855. 

GENERAL  ATTENTION  FIRST  ATTRACTED  TO  YO  SEMITE. 

This  sketch  happened  to  enlist  the  attention  of  journalists, 
was  copied  into  most  of  the  leading  newspapers  of  the  day,, 
and  for  the  first  time  the  attention  of  the  public,  generally,  was 
awakened  towards  the  marvelous  scenery  of  the  Yo  Semite  Valley. 
In  this  connection  it  should  be  remembered  that  it  is  not  by  any 
means  claimed  that  ours  was  the  first  party  making  the  trip 
there,  nor  that  the  first  article  written  concerning  it;  but,  inas- 
much as  the  sentiment  accredited  to  Cicero, 

“Justice  renders  to  every  mail  his  due,” 

Will,  in  the  interests  of  historical  accuracy,  permit  the  statement 
that,  whether  from  preoccupied  attention,  or  other  causes,  the 
fact  remains  the  same  that  the  Yo  Semite  Valley,  at  that  time, 
was  as  a sealed  book  to  the  general  public,  and  that  it  was  our 
good  fortune  to  be  instrumental  in  opening  its  sublime  pages  to 
the  public  eye,  that  it  might  be  “known  and  read  of  all  men.” 
Fiat  justitia,  mat  coelum. 

PARTIES  FORMED  TO  VISIT  THE  NEW  WONDER. 

In  and  around  Mariposa  the  new  revelation  seems  to  have 
become  the  theme  of  many  tongues,  as  plans  were  discussed  and 
parties  organized  for  visiting  it.  Early  the  ensuing  August  two 
companies  of  kindred  spirits,  one  of  seventeen  from  Mariposa,  and 
another  of  ten  from  Sherlock’s  Creek,  an  adjacent  mining  camp. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


93 


started  in  search  of  the  new  scenic  El  Dorado;  the  former  party 
engaged  the  same  Indians  as  guides  who  had  conducted  us  there 
so  successfully,  and  the  latter  was  led  by  Mr.  E.  W.  Haughton, 
who  had  accompanied  the  Savage  expedition,  under  Captain 
Boling,  in  1851.  The  members  of  the  last-mentioned  company 
were 

THE  DISCOVERERS  OF  THE  VERNAL  AND  NEVADA  FALLS. 


And  as  this  was  an  event  of  untold  importance  in  the  develop- 
ment of  the  stupendous  scenery  of  Yo  Semite,  great  pleasure  is 
taken  in  transcribing  portions  of  Mr.  James  H.  Lawrence’s 
deeply  interesting  and  graphic  account  of  it — he  being  one  of  the 
party — given  in  the  Overland  Monthly  for  October,  1884: — 


As  I must  trust  to  memory  alone  for  the  names  of  my  companions,  not 

even  knowing  whether  any  of 
them  are  still  alive,  the  list  is 
necessarily  incomplete.  There 
were  two  of  the  Mann  brothers, 
Milton  and  Houston,  abbreviated 
to  “ Milt  ” and  “Hugh,”  E.  W. 
y i / Haughton,  J.  E.  Connor,  Geo.  C. 

Dickerman,  a man  by  the  name  of 
Priest,  the  long-legged  boy  [?], 
and  one  other,  whose  name  is  for- 
gotten. “The  party  was  com- 
posed of  ten  as  fearless  spirits 
and  noble-hearted  fellows  as  ever 
shouldered  a rifle  or  gathered 
around  a camp-fire.” 

E.  W.  Haughton,  who  was  with 
the  Boling  expedition  in  1851, 
was  our  guide.  Two  pack-mules 
loaded  with  blankets,  a few  cook- 
ing utensils,  and  some  provisions, 
constituted  our  camp  outfit;  while  a half-breed  blood-hound,  whose  owner 
claimed  that  he  was  “the  best  dog  on  the  Pacific  Coast,”  and  who 
answered  to  the  name  of  “Ship,”  trotted  along  with  the  pack-mules. 
There  was  some  talk  about  going  mounted,  but  the  proposition  was  voted 
down  by  a handsome  majority,  on  the  ground  that  superfluous  animals 
were  “ too  much  bother.” 


THERE  ! STEADY  ! 


94 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


In  fancy,  I see  them  yet,  and  hear  the  ringing  chorus,  the  exultant 
whoop,  and  the  genuine,  unrestrained  laughter  at  the  camp-fire.  It  would 
be  worth  a year  of  humdrum  civilized  society  life  to  recall  the  reality  of 
one  week  of  the  old  time. 

One  evening,  after  a series  of  dare-devil  escapades  for  no  other  pur- 
pose except  to  demonstrate  how  near  a man  can  come  to  breaking  his 
neck  and  miss  it,  some  one  suggested  an  expedition  up  the  main  river, 
above  the  valley.  Haughton  was  appealed  to  for  information.  He  fa- 
vored the  proposition,  and  said  he  would  cheerfully  make  one  of  the  party. 
As  for  information,  he  had  none  to  give;  neither  he  nor  any  of  the  Boling 
expedition  ever  dreamed  of  attempting  it.  They  came  on  business — not 
to  see  sights  or  explore  for  new  fields  of  wonder.  Their  mission  was  hunt- 
ing Indians.  There  was  no  sign  of  a trail.  It  was  a deep,  rough  canon, 
filled  with  immense  bowlders,  through  which  the  river  seethed  and  roared 
with  a deafening  sound,  and  there  had  never  been  seen  a foot-print  of 
white  man  or  Indian  in  that  direction.  The  canon  was  considered 
impassable. 

There  was  a chorus  of  voices  in  response. 

“ That’s  the  word.” 

“ Say  it  again.” 

“ Just  what  we  are  hunting.” 

“We  want  something  rough.” 

“We’ll  tackle  that  canon  in  the  morning.” 

“ An  early  start,  now.” 

It  was  so  ordered.  * ‘ With  the  first  streak  of  daylight  you’ll  hear  me 
crow,”  was  Connor’s  little  speech  as  he  rolled  himself  in  his  blankets. 
Next  morning  we  were  up  and  alive,  pursuant  to  programme..  Everybody 
seemed  anxious  to  get  ahead. 

Three  of  us — Milton  J.  Mann,  G.  C.  Pearson,  and  the  writer  of  this 
sketch — lingered  to  arrange  the  camp-fixtures,  for  everybody  was  going 
up  the  canon.  When  we  came  to  the  Glacier  Canon,  or  Tuloolweack,  our 
friends  were  far  in  advance  of  us.  We  could  hear  them  up  the  canon 
shouting,  their  voices  mingling  with  the  roar  of  the  waters.  A brief  con- 
sultation, and  we  came  to  the  resolve  to  diverge  from  the  main  river  and 
try  to  effect  an  ascent  between  that  stream  and  the  canon.  It  looked  like 
a perilous  undertaking,  and  there  were  some  doubts  as  to  the  result;  never- 
theless, the  conclusion  was  to  see  how  far  we  could  go.  Away  up,  up,  far 
above  us,  skirting  the  base  of  what  seemed  to  be  a perpendicular  cliff, 
there  was  a narrow  belt  of  timber.  That  meant  a plateau  or  strip  of  land 
comparatively  level.  If  we  could  only  reach  that,  it  was  reasonable  to 
suppose  that  we  could  get  around  the  face  of  the  cliff.  “Then  we  will 
see  sights,”  was  the  expression  of  one  of  the  trio.  What  we  expected  to 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


95 


discover  somewhere  up  the  main  stream  was  a lake  or  perhaps  a succes- 
sion of  lakes — such  having  been  the  result  of  the  explorations  up  the 
Pyweah  Canon,  and  mountain  lakes  being  not  unfrequently  noted  as  a 
feature  of  the  sources  of  mountain  streams. 

But  to  reach  the  plateau — that  was  the  problem.  It  was  a fearful 
climb.  Over  and  under  and  around  masses  of  immense  rocks,  jumping 
across  chasms  at  imminent  risk  of  life  and  limb,  keeping  a bright  lookout 
for  soft  places  to  fall,  as  well  as  for  the  best  way  to  circumvent  the  next 
obstacle,  after  about  three  hours’  wrestling,  “ catch  as  catch  can,”  with 
that  grim  old  mountain-side,  we  reached  the  timber.  Here,  as  we  had 
surmised,  was  enough  of  level  ground  for  a foothold,  and  here  we  took  a 
rest,  little  dreaming  of  the  magnificent  scene  in  store  for  us  when  we 
rounded  the  base  of  the  cliff. 

The  oft-quoted  phrase,  “ A thing  of  beauty  is  a joy  forever,”  was 
never  more  fully  realized.  The  picture  is  photographed  on  the  tablets  of 
my  memory  in  indelible  colors,  and  is  as  fresh  and  bright  to-day  as  was 
the  first  impression  twenty-nine  years  ago.  To  the  tourist  who  beholds  it 
for  the  first  time,  the  Nevada  Fall,  with  its  wierd  surroundings,  is  a view 
of  rare  and  picturesque  beauty  and  grandeur.  The  rugged  cliffs,  the 
summits  fringed  with  stunted  pine  and  juniper  bounding  the  canon  on 
the  southern  side,  the  “Cap  of  Liberty”  standing  like  a huge  sentinel 
overlooking  the  scene  at  the  north,  the  foaming  caldron  at  the  foot  of  the 
fall,  the  rapids  below,  the  flume  where  the  stream  glides  noiselessly  but 
with  lightning  speed  over  its  polished  granite  bed,  making  the  preparatory 
run  for  its  plunge  over  the  Vernal  Fall,  form  a combination  of  rare  effects, 
leaving  upon  the  mind  an  impression  that  years  cannot  efface.  But  the 
tourist  is  in  a measure  prepared.  He  has  seen  the  engravings  and  pho- 
tographic views,  and  read  descriptions  written  by  visitors  who  have 
preceded  him.  To  us  it  was  the  opening  of  a sealed  volume.  Long^  we 
lingered  and  admiringly  gazed  upon  the  grand  panorama,  till  the  descend- 
ing sun  admonished  us  that  we  had  no  time  to  lose  in  making  our  way 
campward. 

Oue  companions  arrived  long  ahead  of  us.  “Supper  is  waiting,” 
announced  the  chief  cook;  “ ten  minutes  later  and  you  would  have  fared 
badly;  for  we  are  hungry  as  wolves.” 

“ Reckon  you’ve  been  loafing,”  chimed  in  another.  “ You  should 
have  been  with  us.  We  struck  a fall  away  up  at  the  head  of  the  canon, 
about  four  hundred  feet  high.” 

“Have  you?  We  saw  your  little  old  four  hundred-foot  fall  and  go 
you  four  hundred  better  ” — and  then  we  proceeded  to  describe  our  trip, 
and  the  discovery  which  was  its  result. 

The  boys  wouldn’t  have  it.  None  of  them  were  professional  sports, 


96 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


but  they  would  hazard  a little  on  a horse-race,  a turkey-shooting,  or  a 
friendly  game  of  “draw” — filling  the  elegant  definition  of  the  term 
“gambler”  as  given  by  one  of  the  faternity,  viz.:  “A  gentleman  who 
backs  his  opinion  with  coin.”  Connor  was  the  most  voluble.  He  got 
excited  over  it,  and  made  several  rash  propositions. 

“Tell  me,”  said  he,  “that  yon  went  further  up  the  canon  than  we 
did?  We  went  till  we  butted  up  against  a perpendicular  wall  which  a 
wild  cat  couldn’t  scale.  The  whole  Merced  River  falls  over  it.  Why,  a 
bird  couldn’t  fly  beyond  where  we  went.  Of  course,  you  think  you  have 
been  further  up  the  river,  but  you  are  just  a little  bit  dizzy.  I’ll  go  you  a 
small  wad  of  gold-dust  that  the  fall  you  have  found  is  the  same  as  ours.” 

Connor  was  gently  admonished  to  keep  his  money — to  win  it  was  like 
finding  it  in  the  road — nay,  worse;  it  would  be  downright  robbery — but 
to  make  the  thing  interesting  we  would  wager  a good  supper — best 
we  could  get  in  camp,  with  the  “trimmings” — upon  our  return  home, 
that  we  had  been  higher  up  the  canon,  and  that  our  fall  beat  theirs  in 
altitude.  It  was  further  agreed  that  one  of  us  should  accompany  the 
party  as  guide. 

“ Better  take  along  a rope — it  might  help  you  over  the  steep  places,” 
was  a portion  of  our  advice,  adding  by  way  of  caution  to  “ hide  it 
away  from  Connor  ” when  they  returned,  for  “he  would  feel  so  mean  that 
he  would  want  to  hang  himself.” 

To  Pearson,  who  was  ambitious  to  show  off  his  qualities  as  a moun- 
tain guide,  was  delegated  the  leadership — an  arrangement  which  was 
mutually  satisfactory — “Milt”  agreeing  with  me  that  a day’s  rest  would 
be  soothing  and  healthful.  Besides,  we  had  laid  a plan  involving  a deep 
strategy  to  capture  some  of  those  immense  trout,  of  which  we  had  occa- 
sional glimpses,  lying  under  the  bank,  but  which  were  too  old  and  cunning 
to  be  beguiled  with  the  devices  of  hook  and  line. 

The  plan  was  carried  out,  on  both  sides,  to  a successful  issue.  On  our 
part,  we  secured  two  of  the  largest  trout  ever  caught  in  the  valley,  and 
had  them  nicely  dressed,  ready  for  the  fry-pan,  when  our  companions 
returned,  which  was  about  sunset.  Soon  as  they  came  within  hailing  dis- 
tance, their  cheerful  voices  rang  out  (Connor’s  above  all  the  rest),  “We 
give  it  up!”  They  were  in  ecstasies,  and  grew  eloquent  in  praise  of  the 
falls  and  scenery,  at  the  same  time  paying  us  many  compliments. 

A courier  was  dispatched  to  notify  the  Mariposa  party  of  our  dis- 
covery. It  was  a surprise  to  them,  but  they  had  made  their  arrangements 
to  leave  for  home  early  the  next  motning.  They  regretted  the  necessity, 
but  business  arrangements  compelled  their  departure. 

Upon  the  return  of  our  party  to  San  Francisco,  the  writer, 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


97 


being  in  pleasant  intimacy  with  the  late  Rev.  W.  A.  Scott,  D.  D., 
and  family,  paid  them  a visit,  when  the  subject  of  the  scenery 
of  the  Yo  Semite  was  discussed,  and  sketches  shown.  The  doctor 
manifested  remarkable  interest  in  the  theme,  and  added:  “ Mr. 
H.,  I am  badly  in  need  of  a vacation,  and  if  I can  induce  a 
number  of  my  friends  to  join  me,  I should  like  very  much  to  visit 
such  a marvelous  locality.  I shall  esteem  it  a personal  favor 
to  myself  if  you  will  dine  with  us  at  an  early  day,  on  which 
occasion  I will  invite  a few  intimate  friends  to  join  us,  and  dis- 
cuss the  subject  of  visiting  that  astonishingly  magnificent  creation.” 
This  invitation  was  cordially  accepted,  and  in  due  time  and  order 
the  proposed  dinner  party  assembled,  when  the  matter  was  thor- 
oughly canvassed,  and  a company  formed  for  making  the  journey. 
On  the  evening  of  their  arrival  in  Mariposa,  on  the  way  up,  it 
was  their  g-ood  fortune  to  meet  some  of  the  members  of  the  Mari- 
posa  party,  just  returned  from  Yo  Semite;  from  these  additional 
information  was  received,  and  timely  suggestions  made,  born  of 
recent  experiences.  The  Indian  guides,  Kos-sum  and  So-pin, 
having  satisfactorily  conducted  themselves  on  each  former  occa- 
sion, and  being  now  at  liberty,  were  reengaged  by  the  Scott 
party.  After  a very  satisfactory  and  soul-satisfying  jaunt,  Dr. 
Scott,  upon  his  return  to  San  Francisco,  gave  several  eloquent 
discourses,  and  published  some  tersely  written  articles  upon  it. 
His  magnetic  enthusiasm  largely  contributed  to  the  development 
of  an  interest  in  the  minds  of  the  public,  to  witness  such  sublime 
scenes  as  those  he  had  so  graphically  portrayed.  From  that  day 
to  this  the  great  valley  has  been  visited — and  by  tens  of  thousands; 
but  this  w as  the  inauguration  of  tourist  travel  to  Yo  Semite. 

In  October,  1855,  was  published  a lithographic  view  of  the 
Yo  Semite  Fall  (then  called  Yo-Ham-i-te ),  from  the  sketch  taken 
for  the  writer  by  Mr.  Thomas  Ayres,  in  the  preceding  June,  and 
which  was  the  first  pictorial  representation  of  any  scene  in  the 
great  valley  ever  given  to  the  public. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


ITS  EARLY  DEVELOPMENT  AND  PROGRESS. 

Though  varying  wishes,  hopes,  and  fears, 

Fevered  the  progress  of  those  years, 

Yet  now,  days,  weeks,  and  months,  but  seem 
The  recollection  of  a dream. 

— Scott’s  Marmion,  Canto  IV. 

There  is  no  life  of  a man,  faithfully  recorded,  but  is  a heroic  poem  of  its  sort 

— Carlyle’s  Essays . 

The  west  yet  glimmers  with  some  streaks  of  day; 

Now  spurs  the  lated  traveler  apace, 

To  gain  the  timely  inn. 

— Shakespear’s  Macbeth , Act  III. 

As  time  rolled  on,  delighted  visitors  kept  flocking  to  Yo 
Semite.  The  dangerous  roughness,  and  uncertainty  of  the  old 
Indian  trails  (where  there  were  any),  or  the  inconveniences  and 
discomforts  of  open-air  life,  in  no  way  deterred  or  discouraged 
them.  This  induced  two  enterprising  brothers,  Milton  and  Hous- 
ton Mann,  in  1850 — who  had  formed  a portion  of  the  Sherlock’s 
Creek  party  the  preceding  year — to  survey  and  construct  a new 
horse-path  from  “ Clark’s,”  on  the  south  fork  of  the  Merced,  to 
the  valley.  This  was  completed  in  August,  1856,  and  opened  as 
a toll  trail.  Proving  unremunerative  as  such,  it  was  subsequently 
sold  to  the  county  of  Mariposa,  at  about  one-third  of  its  cost,  and 
made  free.  Every  visitor  that  has  passed  over  this  trail  in  early 
days  will  call  to  pleasant  memory  the  unpretentious  hospitality 
and  comfort  of  the  wayside  inn  known  as  “ Peregoy’s;”  and  never 
forget  the  emotions  evoked  by  the  magnificent  view  of  the  distant 
Sierras  from  “the  meadows,”  or  the  inexpressively  impressive 
scenes  from  “Inspiration  Point,”  and  “ Mt.  Beatitude.”  Now, 
these  are  seldom  seen  except  by  sheep  and  cattle  herders,  who 
(98) 


PHOTO-TYPO  BY  BRITTON  & REY,  S.  F 


Photo  by  Taber. 


Cascade  Falls. 


TEE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


99 


make  the  succulent  pastures  of  these  mountain  steppes  a place  of 
temporary  refuge  for  themselves  and  flocks,  during  the  summer 
months. 

CONSTRUCTION  OF  OTHER  TRAILS. 

The  liberal  patronage  coming  from  the  public  to  hotel  keepers, 
livery  men,  and  others  upon  the  line  of  travel  from  Mariposa  to 
Yo  Semite,  became  a strong  incentive  to  the  business  men  of 
Coulterville  and  Big  Oak  Flat  to  seek  similar  advantages  for 
themselves.  Accordingly,  mountaineers  were  sent  among  the 
forest  solitudes  beyond  those  settlements,  trails  surveyed,  built,  and 
soon  thronged  with  expectant  pilgrims  on  their  way  to  the  new 
Mecca  of  scenic  devotion.  About  this  time,  moreover,  the  newly 
discovered  “ diggings  ” of  Mono  (now  included  in  the  Bodie  Min- 
ing District)  were  attracting  great  attention  from  miners  and 
traders,  and  very  naturally  intensified  the  interest  in  all  such  enter- 
prises, and  stimulated  their  rapid  completion.  Scarcely  a turn 
could  be  made  upon  either  of  these  routes  without  revealing 
some  wonderful  picture  of  majesty  or  of  beauty. 

In  the  earliest  infancy  of  trail  travel  to  Yo  Semite, 

ALL  HAD  TO  CAMP  OUT. 

And  to  many  there  was,  and  still  is,  a peculiar  charm  about 
camp-life  in  the  country  that  is  unknown  and  unexperienced  in 
the  world’s  crowded  thoroughfares.  The  absence  of  certain 
civilized  formulas  and  restraints;  its  freedom  from  ordinary  cares; 
its  opportunities  for  buoyant  dilatation  and  cheerfulness;  its  con- 
stantly recurring  changes;  its  tendencies  to  develop  the  best 
(and,  sometimes,  the  worst)  of  human  qualities;  -its  resultant 
trending  to  fearlessness;  its  uniform  healthiness,  in  a climate  like 
that  of  California,  and  especially  in  the  mountains ; and,  certainly 
not  among  the  smallest  of  these  considerations,  is  its  uniform 
economy  (and  which,  in  these  latter  days,  is  by  no  means  the 
least),  unite  to  make  “ camping  out  ” one  of  the  most  invigorating 
and  enjoyable  of  divertisements.  But  successful  camping  out 
is  “a  fine  art,”  and  it  is  not  every  one  that  can  efficiently  man- 


100 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


age,  or  successfully  conduct  it.  A few  hints  upon  this  will  be 
found  in  a future  chapter. 

An  "overwhelming  majority”  of  tourists,  however,  do  not 
like  to  camp  out.  Some  there  are  who  could  not  if  they  would; 
and  there  are  others  who  would  not  if  they  could.  For  these, 
therefore,  hotel  accommodation  became  desirable. 

PIONEER  HOTEL  BUILDING  AT  YO  SEMITE 

To  meet  such  emergencies,  a very  primitive  kind  of  a house, 
the  frame  of  which  consisted  of  pine  poles — some  of  them  set  in 
the  ground  to  form  posts — and  the  covering  of  "shakes,”  or 
"boards,”  riven  from  logs  of  pine,  its  gable,  or  triangular  end, 
forming  the  front,  was  commenced  in  the  fall  of  1856,  near  the 
location  known  as  " Black’s,”  by  Messrs.  Anderson,  Ramsdell, 
Coward,  and  W alsworth ; but  which  was  not  finished  that  year. 

Almost  simultaneously  with  these  movements,  Mr.  S.  M. 
Cunningham  and  Mr.  Buck  Beardsley  formed  a co-partnership 
for  hotel  and  trading  purposes  at  Yo  Semite,  and  started  for  the 
valley ; but  a heavy  snow-storm  compelling  a retreat,  they  cached 
their  tools  and  supplies,  and  returned  to  their  old  residence  on  Bull 
Creek,  to  spend  the  winter.  Early  the  following  March,  they 
again  set  their  faces  for  Yo  Semite,  where  they  arrived  March  17, 
1857.  As  Beardsley  had  to  return  with  the  pack-mules,  Cunning- 
ham was  left  entirely  alone.  This  latter  remark  may  need  a little 
qualification,  inasmuch  as  he  was  surrounded  by  a large  band  of 
Indians,  who,  on  account  of  a bounteous  acorn  crop  the  preceding 
fall  (acorns  forming  the  Indian  staple  of  bread-stuff),  had  made 
an  unusually  early  visit  this  year.  But  these  gave  him  no  trouble. 

Cunningham  and  Beardsley  erected  a "shake”  cabin*  just 
above  the  other  location,  and  at  once  commenced  business.  These, 
eventually,  buying  out  the  interests  of  the  others  above  named, 
finished  the  building  commenced  by  them,  and  occupied  it.  Dur- 
ing the  winter  of  1857-58  the  heavy  snows  broke  down  the 
new  building,  and  constrained  the  erection  of  another  more  sub- 

* Afterwards  temporarily  occupied  by  Mr.  T.  Hill,  Mr.  W.  Keith,  Mr.  Virgil 
Williams,  and  other  artists. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


101 


stantial,  in  1858.  This  was  opened  and  kept,  for  S.  M.  Cunning- 
ham (who  had  separated  his  business  connection  with  Mr.  Beards- 
ley in  the  fall  of  1857),  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  John  H.  Neal,  who  thus 
became 

THE  FIRST  HOTEL  KEEPERS  AT  YO  SEMITE. 

The  following  seasons  of  1859-60  it  was  kept  by  its  owner, 
Mr.  Cunningham.  In  1861,  these  premises  were  sold  to  Mrs.  A. 
G.  Black — then  living  at  Bull  Creek — who  rented  it  to  Mr.  P. 
Longhurst,  and  others;  and,  in  after  }rears,  to  Mr.  G.  F.  Leidig, 
until  occupied  by  her  husband  and  herself,  in  1869,  by  whom 
it  was  taken  down  to  make  way  for  other  much-needed  improve- 
ments. Not  a vestige  now  remains  of  this  pioneer  structure  to 
mark  the  spot  where  it  stood.  Unassuming  and  simple  as  it  was, 
many  eminent  persons,  known  to  fame,  once  found  shelter  beneath 
its  humble  roof. 

After  Beardsley’s  co-partnership  with  Cunningham  had 
ceased,  he  united  with  Mr.  G.  Hite — brother  to  the  successful 
miner  and  millionaire,  Mr.  John  Hite,  of  “Hite’s  Cove” — when, 
in  the  fall  of  1857,  they  commenced  the  business  of  hotel  keeping 
and  trading,  in  a blue  tent,  while  preparing  the  timbers  for  the 
building  now  known  as 

THE  OLD  HUTCHINGS  HOUSE. 

As  this  was  much  more  commodious  than  the  other,  its  con- 
struction was  necessarily  attended  with  more  difficulties  and 
expense;  especially  where  everything  had  to  be  “created” — so  to 
speak — upon  the  spot,  or  brought  fifty  miles  on  pack-mules.  As 
there  was  no  saw-mill  for  their  needed  supply  of  lumber,  every 
board  or  plank,  rafter  or  joist,  had  to  be  hewed,  or  cut  out  by 
whip-saw.  These  primitive  contrivances  took  time  as  well  as 
money,  so  that  the  new  structure  could  not  be  utilized  for  visitors 
until  May,  1859.  Soon  after  its  formal  opening,  Mr.  C.  L.  Weed, 
the  pioneer  photographer  of  Yo  Semite,  Bev.  F.  C.  Ewer  and  fam- 
ily, Miss  M.  Neill,  and  the  writer,  were  among  its  first  guests. 
The  accompanying  illustration  is  from  the  first  photograph  ever 
taken  in  Yo  Semite,  and  by  C.  L.  Weed,  in  June,  1859. 


102 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS, 


Owing  to  a heavy  indebtedness  incurred  in  building  the  hotel, 
and  the  lack  of  success  attending  the  first  “ Fourth  of  July  Party” 
given,  for  which  extensive  preparations  had  been  made,  and  from 
which  much  had  been  expected,  its  projectors  and  builders,  unable- 
to  meet  their  obligations,  assigned  it  to  creditors  for  their  protec- 
tion. The  following  two  years  it  was  leased  to  Mr.  Charles  Peck, 
then  to  Mr.  P.  Longhurst,  after  which  it  was  either  let  tempora- 
rily, or  remained  closed,  until  purchased  by  the  writer  in  1864. 

In  this  connection  it  may  be  remarked  that  at  that  time  the 
land  here  was  a part  of  the  public  domain  of  the  United  States, 
and  as  such  was  considered  to  be  open  to  preemption  and  settle- 
ment under  the  Pre- 
emption Laws  of  the 
United  States.  Being 
unsurveyed,  however, 
as  no  regular  plot 
could  be  filed  of  any 
given  portion  of  it  in 
the  United  States  Land 
Office,  its  location,  giv- 
ing metes  and  bounds, 
was  entered  upon  the 
records  of  the  county, 
and  such  entry  was 
interpreted  as  a legal  guarantee  of  title,  until  surveyed  by  the 
United  States,  and  in  the  market.  Under  this  impression  settle- 
ments were  made,  titles  respected,  and  frequent  transfers  of  such 
title  given  from  one  to  the  other,  without  their  validity  being 
questioned.  And  it  is  a matter  of  historical  interest  to  state  that, 
at  one  time  (about  1860),  an  enterprising  citizen  secured  nearly 
the  whole  of  .such  titles,  and  put  them  all  into  a “ Grand  Lottery 
Scheme,”  for  the  purpose  of  raffling  off  the  entire  valley  to  the 
“ lucky  winner.”  But  a “justifiable”  number  of  tickets  not 
having  been  sold,  most  of  the  money  (as  his  enemies  assert)  was 
(un)returned,  and  the  speculation  abandoned. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


ITS  FIRST  WINTER  VISITOR. 

The  blood  more  stirs 
To  rouse  a lion  than  to  start  a hare. 

— Shakespear’s  Henry  IV.,  Part  Act  I. 

I argue  not 

Against  Heaven’s  hand  or  will,  nor  bate  a jot 
Of  heart  or  hope;  but  still  bear  up  and  steer 
Right  onward. 

— Milton’s  Sonnet. 

God  tempers  the  wind  to  the  shorn  lamb. 

— Sterne’s  Sentimental  Journey. 

That  inestimable  of  earthly  blessings  called  “health,”  having 
given  unerrable  premonitions  of  early  departure,  from  more  than 
one  member  of  our  little  home  circle,  the  family  physician  was 
duly  consulted,  who  gave  emphatic  enunciation  to  the  opinion 
that  unless  we  left  the  city  at  an  early  day,  we  should  soon  do  so 
from  the  world;  we  concluded  the  former  journey — being  the 
shortest,  best  known,  and  upon  the  whole  the  pleasantest  to  take, 
for  the  present — would  be  the  most  desirable.  This  point  satis- 
factorily determined,  without  a single  “if”  or  “but,”  the  question 
naturally  presented  itself,  “ Where  can  we  go?”  Resolving  our- 
selves into  a “Committee  of  Consultation,”  the  “pros”  and 
“cons”  of  different  localities  were  considered,  when  its  feminine 
members  unequivocally  expressed  their  decided  preferences  for 
Yo  Semite.  Now,  is  it  not  a reasonable  question  to  ask  any  man 
“not  set  in  his  ways,”  if  there  would  be  more  than  one  coarse  left 
him,  under  the  circumstances,  and  that  one  “immediate  and 
unconditional  surrender” — especially  when  in  perfect  concert 
with  his  own  predelictions  and  convictions?  So,  Yo  Semite  was 
chosen.  Another  and  equally  pertinent  inquiry  now  interposed, 

(103) 


104 


1JV  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


“ What  can  we  do  after  our  arrival  there?  ” We  could  not  sup- 
port  physical  life  on  scenery,  sublimely  beautiful  as  it  unquestion- 
ably was ! What  then  ? It  w~as  true  we  had  some  means,  but  to 
live  upon  and  absorb  them,  in  comparative  indolence,  or  unpro- 
ductive personal  occupation,  was  as  repellant  to  every  ennobling* 
intuition  as  it  was  adverse  to  provident  business  foresight.  This 
momentous  conundrum,  therefore,  was  propounded  to  the  ladies, 
and  was  instantly  met  with  another,  “ Why  cannot  we  keep 
hotel?  ” Why,  indeed!  There  was  at  least  one  condition  in  our 
favor,  not  knowing  anything  about  such  a business  we  possessed 
the  usual  qualifications  for  conducting*  it.  This  was  something! 
Learn  it?  Certainly.  Of  course  we  could;  but  what  were  the 
much-tried  public  to  do  in  the  unpleasant  interim?  Yes,  it  is 
very  easy  to  answer,  “ Do  as  we  would  do,  and  as  they  have  al- 
ways done.  Try  your  best;  take  the  best  that  you  can  find;  and 
make  the  best  of  what  you  get.”  But  good  meals,  well  cooked, 
and  pleasantly  served,  with  clean-bed  accompaniments,  are  always 
preferred  by  the  public  to  either  philosophy  or  argument. 

All  objections  being  gracefully  overruled,  it  was  decided  that 
in  the  early  spring  we  should  move  all  our  earthly  goods,  our- 
selves, and  household  gods,  to  Yo  Semite,  and  there  enter  into 
the  mysterious  and  unthankful  calling  of  “hotel  keepers.” 
Accordingly,  our  books,  chinaware,  and  other  dispensable  articles, 
were  carefully  packed,  at  leisurable  intervals,  so  as  to  anticipate 
possible  hurry  at  the  start.  The  sky  of  our  future  was  not  only 
filled  with  beatified  castles,  but  was  brilliant  with  the  prismatic 
colors  of  Hope;  and,  although 

“ Hope,  like  the  gleaming  taper’s  light, 

Adorns  and  cheers  our  way; 

And  still,  as  darker  grows  the  night, 

Emits  a brighter  ray,” 

At  this  particular  season  of  day-dreaming  expectancy 
A CLOUD  SWEPT  ACROSS  OUR  HORIZON, 

Brought  by  that  ill-omened  and  unprincipled  old  storm-fiend 
known  as  Dame  Rumor,  who  asseverated,  with  untold  assurance, 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


105 


that  “no  one  could  ever  make  a permanent  winter  home  in  Yo 
Semite,  inasmuch  as  snow  from  the  surrounding  mountains 
drifted  into  it,  as  into  a deep  railroad-cut,  and  filled  it  half  full,” 
and  as  its  granite  walls  were  from  three  thousand  three  hundred 
to  six  thousand  feet  in  height,  the  half  of  that  amount,  in  snow 
hanks,  under  the  most  liberal  provision — even  including  a gener- 
ous supply  for  fashionable  drinks — might  well  be  deemed  excessive 
for  the  ordinary  purposes  of  residence  there  in  winter,  notwith- 
standing its  admitted  value,  in  reasonable  quantities,  for  snow- 
shoe  evolutions.  There  could  be  no  doubt  of  the  tenability  of 
these  deductions  from  such  premises.  No  one  could  be  found  who 
had  ever  been  there  in  winter,  therefore  no  one  could  be  appealed 
to  for  the  affirmation  or  contradiction  of  these  stories  from  Madam 
Rumor.  Therefore  before  accepting  the  responsibility  of  removing 
the  family  to  such  a spot,  proof  must  be  positive  this  way  or  the 
other.  But  one  path  seemed  open  for  making  it  so,  and  duty 
impelled  me  to  take  it,  and  it  was  this, — 

AX  EXPLORATORY  WINTER  JAUNT  TO  YO  SEMITE. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  first  day  of  January,  1862,  therefore, 
although  vast  banks  of  clouds  had,  for  several  days,  been  drifting 
up  from  the  south  and  indicated  an  approaching  rain,  the  home 
valedictory  was  spoken,  and  departure  made  by  steamboat  for 
Stockton.  There  were  no  railroads  here  in  those  days.  On  the 
following  morning,  January  2,  a seat  was  secured  upon  the  out- 
going stage,  to  a ranch  some  few  miles  out,  where  my  horse  was 
kept,  and  whence  I soon  started  on  my  mystery-resolving  ex- 
pedition. 

Before  many  miles  had  been  traversed,  the  threatened  rain 
began  to  fall,  heavily,  and  to  compel  a shelter  in  the  nearest  way- 
side  house.  This  was  continued  for  the  whole  of  that  clay,  and 
the  next,  and  the  two  days  following.  A few  hours’  suspension 
of  hostilities  on  the  fifth  day  enabled  me  to  again  renew  the 
journey.  But  this  time,  however,  all  the  shallow  hollows  across 
the  road  had  been  converted  into  deep  streams,  and  the  ravines 
into  rushing  torrents.  The  difficulty,  if  not  danger  of  fording 


106 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


NOW,  FOR  ANOTHER  START. 

these  swollen  streams  suggested  necessary  delay  for  their  subsi- 
dence ; and  the  expense  of  horse-keeping,  the  desirability  of  return- 
ing him  to  the  ranch,  and  continuing  the  trip  afoot.  Carrying 
out  these  presumptive  conjectures  and  chafing  at  the  long  pro- 
longed freaks  of  the  warring  elements,  frequent  efforts  at  progress 
were  attempted,  during  every  cessation  of  the  down-pour.  Pass- 
ing on  from  one  way-side  inn  to  another,  during  brief  inter- 
missions of  the  storm,  and  by  frequent  wadings  of  water-courses 
up  to  the  chin,  Coulterville,  seventy-one  miles  from  Stockton,  was 
finally  reached  on  the  evening  of  the  seventeenth  day  from  the 
latter  city!  This,  verily,  was  the  “pursuit  of  knowledge  under 
difficulties.  ” 

STORM  BOUND. 

Nor  was  this  other  than  the  beginning  of  the  end,  inasmuch 
as  the  inundating  rain  kept  pouring  down  for  five  successive 


Cathedral  Spires-Poo-see-ha  Chuck-ka. 

Lowest  Spire,  2,579  feet;  Highest  Spire,  2,678  feet  above  Valley. 

(See  page  409.) 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


107 


additional  days;  and  news  arrived  of  the  sweeping  away  of 
bridges  and  ferry-boats;  the  tearing  up  of  roads,  and  the  discon- 
tinuation of  stage  and  mail  communication;  the  floating  off  of 
houses,  and  the  general  flooding  of  the  valleys.  By  natural  rea- 
soning, therefore,  the  inquiry  enforced  consideration,  “If  these  are 
the  doings  of  the  storm  within  the  boundaries  of  civilized  settle- 
ments, what  must  they  not  have  been  beyond  their  confines  in  the 
mountains?”  Ought  a reluctance  to  acknowledge  defeat  be 
allowed  to  resist  the  teachings  of  common  prudence?  Who  could 
accomplish  impossibilities?  Why  not  return,  and  await  a bright- 
ening prospect,  for  its  accomplishment? 

£ ‘ When  valor  preys  on  reason, 

It  eats  the  sword  it  fights  with.  ” 

These  considerations  admonished  postponement  and  regression. 
But  how  accomplish  the  latter,  with  all  rhe  ordinary  avenues  of 
return  closed  up?  Conferences  with  other  storm-bound  travelers 
provided  a way.  We  would  accomplish  it  by  water.  There 
could  be  no  question  about  this  method  from  quantitive  reasons. 
Four  of  us,  therefore,  united  our  energies  and  resources,  and  dis- 
patched one  of  our  number  to  Merced  Falls,  on  the  Merced  Biver, 
to  have  a suitable  boat  constructed  for 

A VOYAGE  DOWN  THE  MERCED. 

Hearing  of  this,  Mr.  McKean  Buchanan,  well  known  to  his- 
trionic fame  in  those  days,  who  had,  with  his  troupe,  been  per- 
forming at  “ Snellings,”  upon  the  eve  of  this  unusual  effluence, 
and  been  confined  there  ever  since,  desired  to  join  us  in  our  novel 
method  of  exit.  This  was  cheerily  conceded,  and  the  uncertain 
cruise  commenced.  Nearly  every  man,  woman,  and  child  resid- 
ing near  Snellings  was  present  at  our  departure. 

At  this  time  the  river  upon  which  we  were  to  venture  had 
largely  overflowed  its  banks,  was  over  a quarter  of  a mile  in 
width,  and  its  waters  had  become  a rushing,  foaming*  torrent. 
But  out  upon  its  angry  bosom  we  pushed  our  little  craft,  and 
were  instantly  hurried  down  it  at  the  rate  of  about  fifteen  miles 
an  hour.  Just  before  dusk,  an  immense  gathering*  of  drift  had 

7 o o 

8 


108 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


given  a sudden  sweep  to  the  surging  stream,  and  forced  us  to  a 
choice  between  two  alternatives — either  to  jeopard  the  capsizing 
of  our  boat  upon  the  drift,  or  risk  its  being  swamped  by  shooting 
through  a narrow  opening  in  it,  with  an  abrupt  descent  of  nearly 
three  feet,  through  which  the  water  was  precipitately  plunging. 
We  chose  the  latter,  our  steersman  shouting,  “ Pull  hard  on  the 
oars — pulf  with  all  your  might;”  and,  fortunately,  the  passage 
was  safely  accomplished  without  shipping  a quart. 

A SHIPWRECK. 

Not  so,  with  our  fellow-voyagers,  however,  who,  fearing  to 
follow  us,  had  chosen  the  alternative  we  had  declined,  and  their 
boat  was  overturned  upon  the  drift.  This  happening  far  from 
the  shore,  and  among  numerous  cross-currents,  with  darkness 
closing  in,  made  deliverance  impossible  before  morning.  Here, 
then,  they  had  to  remain  through  the  long  night,  in  their  wet 
clothing,  without  creature  comforts,  encompassed  by  surging 
rapids  that  might  at  any  moment  tear  away  their  insecure  foot- 
hold, and  without  knowledge  of  probable  extrication,  their  boat 
having  floated  away. 

As  illustrative  of  the  devastation  caused  by  the  present  storm, 
it  should  here  be  mentioned,  that  on  the  very  spot  where  we  had 
moored  our  wherry,  there  formerly  stood  a handsome  dwelling, 
surrounded  by  fertile  gardens,  and  fruitful  orchards;  but  now, 
the  very  soil,  upon  which  they  were  so  recently  standing  had  been 
washed  away,  leaving  a sad  scene  of  sorrow-stirring  desolation  on 
every  hand.  The  house  furniture  had  been  hastily  removed,  only 
in  time  to  prevent  its  floating  off  with  the  house,  and  now  lay 
scattered  high  upon  the  river’s  bank,  exposed  to  the  elements. 

Our  breakfast  fire  was  kindled  long  before  day-dawn,  so  as 
to  be  in  readiness  to  render  assistance  at  the  earliest  possible  mo- 
ment ; and  as  its  first  gleams  shot  up  into  the  darkness,  cries  for 
help  that  had  died  away  with  the  fire  on  the  previous  night,  were 
again  most  eagerly  renewed.  To  us  those  cries  were  rejoicing 
music,  as  they  assured  us  of  the  continued  safety  of  those  to  whom 
we  hoped  soon  to  bear  deliverance. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


109 


Climbing  up  the  bluff  bank  that  here  bounded  the  river,  so  that 
we  could  overlook  the  watery  waste  below,  and  definitely  ascer- 
tain the  exact  position  of  our  imprisoned  companions,  and  the 
best  way  of  reaching  them,  we  saw  in  the  shadowy  distance  the 
forms  of  five  men  approaching,  followed  by  troops  of  hogs ! The 
foremost  of  the  men  proved  to  be  the  owner  of  the  house  and 
lands,  once  his  possessions  here,  and  who,  with  his  assistants,  had 
come  to  obtain  some  wet  grain  that  was  stored  in  the  only  build- 
ing- left,  standing  on  an  island  of  the  river,  from  which  to  feed  his 
hogs.  When  made  aware  of  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  he 
kindly  tendered  us  assistance.  Selecting  two  of  his  most  trusty 
hands,  after  declining  our  proffered  help,  and  preferring  his  own 
boat  to  ours,  he  launched  out  upon  the  rushing  current,  and  was 
•soon  lost  amid  underbrush  and  whirling  eddies. 

ANOTHER  SHIPWRECK. 

But  a few  minutes  had  elapsed  before  there  arose  new  cries 
for  help,  as  this  boat  also  had  capsized,  when  its  occupants  nar- 
rowly escaped  drowning.  Now  there  were  six  to  be  rescued 
instead  of  three.  Reinforcements  for  their  succor  must  be 
obtained,  and  immediately.  Dispatching  two  men  in  each  direc- 
tion, up  and  down  the  river,  for  this  purpose,  the  two  remain- 
ing prepared  the  boat  for  service,  and  investigated  the  water-swept 
country,  so  as  to  render  efficient  assistance  when  other  help 
arrived.  Appeal  was  notin  vain;  and,  by  three  o’clock,  all  were 
at  last  delivered  from  their  perilous  position. 

HOTEL  ON  A CRUISE. 

As  Buchanan’s  boat  had  been  found  upon  a drift,  we  pro- 
posed to  share  our  provisions  and  continue  the  voyage.  To  this, 
however,  he  would  not  listen.  “No,”  said  he,  “I  will  return  to 
my  wife  at  Snellings.  I would  not,  for  the  world,  have  any 
other  lips  than  my  own  tell  her  the  story  of  this  great  misfort- 
une. Her  nerves  are  so  utterly  unstrung  by  recent  experiences 
that  the  shock  would  prove  fatal  to  her.  Why,  sir,  we  were  in 
the  Snellings  Hotel  when  the  flood  entirely  surrounded  us,  and  it. 


no 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


We  felt  the  building  moving,  when  my  wife  and  daughter,  with 
myself,  took  the  precaution  to  climb  an  oak  tree  that  stood  by 
the  porch;  and  just  as  we  had  reached  it,  the  entire  edifice,  with 
all  its  contents,  floated  off,  sir!  In  less  than  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  after  our  deliverance,  sir,  from  the  tree,  the  tree  itself  was 
washed  away.  Then  to  add  this  to  that  sorrow,  indiscreetly,  would 
be  altogether  too  much — too  much — for  her,  I assure  you,  sir.” 

But,  when  returning,  another  mishap  overtook  him — he  lost 
his  way,  and  spent  this  night  also  a shelterless  wanderer!  Just 
before  morning  he  saw  an  empty  wagon,  stalled  in  a muddy  cross- 
road, and  lay  down  in  it  to  rest  and  sleep ; but  the  cold  awoke  him 
as  day  was  breaking,  when  he*  discovered  this  to  be  his  own 
vehicle! — and  only  half  a mile  from  town!  Mr.  Buchanan’s  first 
voyage  down  the  Merced,  therefore,  would  not  be  cherished  as 
an  altogether  pleasant  memory. 

THE  VOYAGE  CONTINUED. 

On  the  following  day  we  continued  our  boating  excursion 
down  the  Merced  to  its  confluence  with  the  San  Joaquin  River, 
spending  the  night  in  the  second  story  of  Hill’s  Ferry  House,  the 
first  story  being  underwater.  But  even  here  we  were  compelled  to 
utilize  the  table  tops  for  both  cook-stove  and  chairs,  and  only  the 
upper  berths  could  be  used  for  sleeping.  A strong  north  wind, 
blowing  squarely  in  our  faces,  so  much  retarded  our  progress  on  the 
San  Joaquin  (then  several  miles  wide  in  places)  that  six  days  of 
hard  rowing  were  required  to  reach  the  city  of  Stockton,  although 
only  sixty  miles  distant.  Here  we  gratefully  left  our  boat  for 
use  among  the  streets  of  that  city — then  in  a flooded  condition 
— and  secured  passage  on  the  outgoing  steamboat  for  San  Fran- 
cisco; and  which,  owing  to  the  very  high  stage  of  water,  shot 
straight  across  the  overflowed  tule  lands,  instead  of  following  the 
usual  course  of  the  river.  Thus  ended  the  first  effort  to  explore 
the  Yo  Semite  Valley  in  winter,  and  proved  the  aptness  of  Burns’ 
sentiment  (addressed  to  a mouse), 

“ The  best-laicl  schemes  o’  mice  an’  men, 

Gang  aft  a-gley.” 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


Ill 


THE  SECOND  AND  SUCCESSFUL  ATTEMPT  TO  VISIT  YO  SEMITE  IN 

WINTER. 

In  the  ensuing  March,  as  the  problem  whether  or  not  the  great 
Valley  could  be  safely  occupied  as  a place  of  residence  in  winter, 
remained  unsolved;  and  the  same  cloud  of  uncertainty  still  hov- 
ered over  our  movements,  and  would  so  continue  to  do,  unless 
that  theorem  was  resolved  by  actual  demonstration,  another 
jaunt  was  accordingly  planned,  and  this  time  via  Mariposa. 
Here  two  others  volunteered  to  accompany  me,  as  they  also  were 
anxious  to  see  the  Yo  Semite  in  her  winter  robes.  Three  of  us, 
therefore,  set  out  on  this  pilgrimage.  Colonel  Fine,  of  Mormon 
Bar,  kindly  loaned  us  a donkey  to  pack  our  necessary  stores  to 
the  snow-line,  beyond  which  each  man  had  to  be  his  own  pack 
animal.  At  Clark’s — now  called  “ Wawona’  ’ — we  were  hospitably 
entertained  by  its  owner,  who  was  one  of  our  party.  Here  the 
unsettled  weather  detained  us  for  three  days.  On  the  fourth  we 
shouldered  our  loads  and  set  out.  A brighter  morning  never 
dawned.  That  evening  we  camped  in  about  ten  inches  of  snow; 
but  this  was  soon  cleared  away;  and,  around  a large  camp-fire, 
many  stories  were  told  to  beguile  away  the  hours. 

Early  on  the  morrow  we  were  again  upon  our  course — the 
trail  being  covered  up.  About  nine  o’clock,  snow  had  deep- 
ened to  the  knees,  and  every  step  was  one  requiring  effort.  A 
fatiguing  climb  of  one  snow-covered  mountain  spur  but  revealed 
another,  and,  still  beyond,  another;  the  silvery  covering  increasing 
in  depth  as  we  advanced.  At  length  one  of  our  companions 
dropped  his  pack,  and  himself  upon  it,  at  the  same  instant, 
exclaiming,  “I’ll  be  clanged  [he  never  swore]  if  I go  any  further. 
1 know  we  can  never  get  through.  Besides,  this  is  too  much  like 
work  for  me  [but  few  more  industrious  men  ever  lived].  I pro- 
pose that  we  all  go  back,  and  wait  until  some  of  this  snow  melts 
off.”  To  this  my  other  companion  gave  reluctant  concurrence. 

At  this  crisis  of  affairs  another  consideration  enforced  itself 
upon  our  attention:  How  could  the  winter  status  of  the  Valley 
be  ascertained  if  we  waited  until  spring  or  summer  came?  This 


112 


IN  THE  HEART  OE  THE  SIERRAS. 


was  intended  as  a convincing  argument  to  induce  a forward 
movement;  but,  to  make  a long  story  as  short  as  possible,  my 
two  companions  could  not  be  persuaded  to  go  on,  nor  the  writer  to 
turn  back — his  mission  still  unaccomplished.  This  left  but  one 
alternative — 

HE  MUST  ATTEMPT  THE  PERILOUS  JOURNEY  ALONE. 

The  increasing  depth  of  snow,  the  solitude  of  its  forest 
wastes,  the  absence  of  all  traces  of  a trail,  utter  helplessness  in 
case  of  accident,  its  unavoidable  fatigue  and  exposure,  danger 
from  wild  animals,  and  possible  sickness, — all  of  these,  while 
meriting  due  solicitude,  ought  not  to  deter  or  hinder  him  from 
treading  the  path  of  duty.  Certainly  no  man,  worthy  of  so 
honored  an  appellation,  would  for  a moment  hesitate  at  such  a 
crisis,  where  the  safety  of  an  entire  family  depended  upon  his 
present  movements.  No.  He  must  do  the  best  that  became  his 
manhood,  and  leave  its  results  to  the  one  higher  Power.  While 
he  could  not  blame  the  others,  who  were  without  the  pale  of  such 
responsibilities,  for  returning,  he  must  press  on  to  the  goal  desired. 

Packs  were  therefore  readjusted;  about  fifteen  days’  rations 
secured;  blankets,  overcoat,  ax,  and  other  sundries  tied  snugly 
up ; and,  after  a cheery  good-bye  to  my  companions,  I started  out 
— alone.  There  is  still  a pleasant  memory  treasured  of  their 

kindly  and  long-lingering  farewell  look,  when  passing  out  of  sight 
— and,  as  they  thought,  forever.  F or  several  hours  after  departure 
from  my  companions,  a feeling  of  extreme  loneliness  and  isolation 
crept  over  me,  so  that  the  sight  and  voice  of  a chattering  tree- 
squirrel  was  a real  relief ; but  this  soon  passed  away.  The  most 
trying  test  of  endurance  was  from  the  constantly  breaking  crust 
of  frozen  snow,  that  grew  deeper  at  almost  every  step,  and 
dropped  me  suddenly  down  among  bushes  from  which  I had  again 
to  climb  with  fatiguing  effort,  while  realizing  the  uncertain  tenure 
of  my  foothold  after  the  surface  had  been  gained ; thus  demoraliz- 
ing one’s  clothing  and  incising  his  flesh,  while  taxing  both  strength 
and  patience  to  get  out  again. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


113 


SIX  DAYS,  ALONE,  IN  THE  SNOW. 

In  this  manner  six  wearying  days  were  passed,  not  walking 
merely  in  or  over  snow,  but  wallowing  through  it,  and  only  aver- 
aging about  one  mile  of  actual  distance  per  day.  At  night  I 
slept  where  any  friendly  rock  or  tree  offered  its  reviving  shelter. 
Just  as  darkness  was  about  to  lower  down  its  sable  curtain,  there 
being  no  place  of  rest  or  refuge  visible  in  all  that  snowy  waste, 
and  excessive  fatigue  had  seemingly  made  further  progress  impos- 
sible, I dropped  my  pack  (now  grown  very  heavy)  and  sat  upon 
it,  to  write  a few  loving  words  to  the  dear  ones  at  home — possibly 
the  last — before  the  fast  deepening  twilight,  and  increasing  chilli- 
ness, had  forever  banished  the  opportunity;  thinking,  also,  that 
when  the  melting  snows  of  spring  had  fed  the  rills,  some  kindly 
feet  would  perhaps  wander  in  search  of  or  for  whatever  remained 
of  the  lonely  traveler,  and  thus  find  the  memoranda.  The  entry 
finished,  upon  looking  up  I saw  that  the  clouds  which  had  pre- 
viously draped  the  forest  and  the  mountain,  so  that  the  limit  of 
vision  was  only  a few  yards  off,  had  lifted  and  drifted  among  the 
tree-tops,  so  that  from  my  resting-place  I could  look  down  some 
three  thousand  feet  upon  the  river,  where  to  my  ineffable  joy  I 
could  see  green  grasses  growing,  and  flowers  blooming — and  no 
more  snow!  It  was 

A LOOK  INTO  PARADISE. 

Tired?  Oh ! dear  no ! Before  this  strength-giving  sight,  it  seemed 
utterly  impossible  to  advance  another  quarter  of  a mile,  even 
to  save  one’s  life.  But,  now,  the  pack  was  again  shouldered, 
and,  “ like  a giant  refreshed  with  wine,”  long  and  rapid  strides 
were  made  down  the  mountain  ridge,  to  the  promised  land,  which 
was  reached  about  an  hour  after  dark.  Out  of  the  snow,  the 
muscle-testing,  patience-trying  snow!  I thanked  God  with  a 
grateful  heart.  I have  often  thought  since,  that  the  most  gifted 
of  singers  could  never  make  the  song  of  “The  Beautiful,  Beauti- 
ful Snow  ” attractive  to  me.  Even  when  sweetly  sleeping  that 
night,  beneath  the  protecting  arms  of  an  out-spreading  live-oak 


114 


IJY  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


tree  I forgot  all  my  troubles,  but  one — the  snow,  the  snow,  the 
unfeeling,  the  never-yielding,  the  ever-bullying  snow.  F or  months 
afterwards,  in  my  dreams,  it  was  a ghost-shadow,  in  white — a 
ghost  that  wmilcl  not  be  “laid” — and  was  always  present. 

Awaking  on  the  morrow  my  gladdened  eyes  at  first  looked, 
doubtingly,  on  these  new  surroundings;  but,  when  thoroughly 
satisfied  they  were  not  the  creations  of  an  exuberant  fancy,  a 
spring  of  unalloyed,  full-hearted,  grateful  joy  began  to  well  up 
within  me,  and  one  that  has  ever  since  kept  flowing,  whenever 
memory  has  brought  those  circumstances  back  again  into  review. 

AN  OBSTACLE  AHEAD 

The  frowning  face  of  a lofty  bluff,  not  far  above  my  encamp- 
ment, became  suggestive  of  possible  trouble  in  ascending  the  river, 
without  crossing  to  the  opposite  side.  This  must  be  ascertained. 
Taking  precautionary  measures  for  insuring  the  safety  of  my 
limited  supply  of  provisions,  by  tying  them  to  the  limb  of  a tree 
and  allowing  it  to  revert  upwards,  with  ax  in  hand  I started. 
Fears  were  soon  verified  by  facts.  There  were  but  two  alterna- 
tives left  me:  the  northern  bank  of  the  foaming  and  angry  river 
must  be  reached,  or  the  snowy  wastes  above  again  sought.  I had 
surely  seen  enough  of  the  latter,  and  would  therefore  choose  the 
former.  A tall  tree  was  selected  for  felling,  and  the  ax  applied; 
but  such  was  the  exacting  tax  upon  physical  strength  for  the  last 
six  days,  that  but  a very  small  chip  was  returned  for  each  stroke. 
Still,  it  was  a chip ; and,  if  I did  not  succumb  to  discouragement, 
every  blow  must  ultimately  tell,  and  compel  the  tree  to  fall,  and 
form  a bridge  for  my  deliverance.  About  noon  exhaustion 
compelled  a short  respite  from  labor,  the  soothing  and  renewing 
influences  of  refreshing  sleep,  and  the  replenishment  of  the  inner 
man.  On  the  wray  to  my  supplies,  to  my  astonishment  and 
momentary  discomfiture,  in  the  distance  I saw  a large  animal 
of  some  kind,  and  that,  too,  beneath  the  very  tree  in  which  my 
limited  stock  of  provisions  was  stored.  A nearer  approach  dis- 
closed the  unwelcome  presence  of 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


115 


A FULL  GROWN  GRIZZLY  BEAR. 

Candid  confession  must  be  made  that  this  discovery  was  not 
a little  startling  at  first,  especially  as  my  only  weapons  were  an 
ax,  and  two  limber  limbs  with  which  to  run  away,  had  1 been  in 
condition.  What  should  I do?  What  could  I do,  but  stand  in 
safety  behind  a rock,  and  watch  his  movements?  My  usual  self- 
possession  soon  returning,  this  could  have  been  done  with  con- 
siderable interest  and  amusement,  but  for  an  anxious  consideration 
for  the  safety  of  my  supplies,  to  me  invaluable  under  present 
circumstances.  Bruin’s  grotesque  and  ludicrous  antics,  in  his 
efforts  to  clutch  them,  for  the  moment  absorbed  all  sense  of  dan- 
ger, to  either  myself  or  my  food,  by  their  diverting  clumsiness. 

Now  he  would  sit  upon  his  haunches,  apparently  ruminating 
upon  some  plan  that  should  successfully  put  him  in  possession  of 
that  which  his  keen  sense  of  hunger  scented  from  afar.  Then  he 
would  rise  upon  his  feet,  and,  by  a side  lunge,  attempt  to  catch 
hold  of  a bough  with  his  fore  paw;  simultaneously  throwing  the 
weight  of  his  huge  body  upon  the  opposite  hind  foot,  as  though 
by  this  he  hoped  to  stretch  himself  to  the  required  length,  to  secure 
the  much-coveted  prize — but  missed  it  every  time.  Unlike  a pas- 
senger once  seated  at  the  dinner-table  of  a Mississippi  steamboat, 
who,  being  curtly  and  surlily  asked,  by  his  fellow-passenger,  “ Can 
you  reach  that  butter  ? ” immediately  stretched  out  his  arm,  as 
though  about  to  comply,  when  he  withdrew  it,  without  passing 
the  article  in  question,  and  answered,  stutteringly,  “Ye-ye-yes, 
I c-c-can  j -j -just  r-r -reach  it!”  There  was  this  difference,  then, 
between  the  gentleman  and  the  butter,  and  the  grizzly  with  the 
pack — one  could  reach  it,  and  the  other  could  not. 

Finding  his  efforts  still  unrewarded,  and  the  smell  alone 
possibly  being  altogether  too  unsatisfying,  he  began  to  cast  wistful 
glances  at  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  and  along  its  branches,  as  though 
cogitating  upon  the  possibility  of  securing  the  coveted  treasure 
by  climbing  the  tree.  Doubt  evidently  had  changed  to  hope,  for, 
dropping  to  his  feet,  he  ran  with  a bound  to  the  tree,  and  began 
to  scramble  up  it.  But,  either  his  body  was  too  heavy  for  its 


116 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


strength,  or,  there  was  an  uncommendable  lack  of  will-power — 
an  occasional  experience  in  similar  forms  of  the  genus  homo — 
inasmuch  as  less  than  half  of  the  height  had  been  overcome,  when 
he  began  to  hesitate,  then  to  back  down.  F earing,  however,  that 
the  pangs  of  hunger  might  provide  bruin  with  sufficient  intelli- 
gence to  encompass  their  capture,  and  my  dismay,  I struck  a 
rattling  blow  upon  a large  hollow  log,  accompanied  with  a loud 
shout;  when,  looking  around  towards  the  spot  whence  the  noise 
proceeded,  he  started  upon  an  ambling  run  in  the  opposite 
direction,  and  was  soon  lost  in  the  distance.  It  may  not  be  neces- 
sary here  to  aver  that  not  a single  arrow  of  sorrow  pierced  my 
heart  at  his  abrupt  departure. 

After  rest  and  refreshment,  the  attack  was  renewed  upon  the 
tree;  and,  about  three  o’clock  that  afternoon,  it  began  to  give 
premonitions  of  a downfall.  As  Mungo  Park  once  said,  when 
suffering  with  thirst  upon  the  deserts  of  Africa,  and  heard  the 
croaking  of  frogs,  knowing  that  the  sound  was  indicative  of 
water  being  near,  with  gladness  exclaimed,  “It  was  heavenly 
music  to  my  ears;”  so  was  the  cracking  of  that  tree  to  me. 
Luckily  it  fell  just  right,  and  reached  the  other  side.  Creeping 
across  it — I was  too  weak  to  walk  it — I discovered  signs  of  a 
dim  and  almost  unused  trail,  passing  up  the  northern  bank  of  the 
river.  This  augured  successful  progress  in  the  right  direction. 

Returning  to  camp,  a fresh  supply  of  bread  was  made  up, 
and  baked  upon  hot  rocks  in  front  of  the  fire,  or  upon  dried  sticks; 
and  on  the  following  day  my  journey  was  renewed.  For  three 
days  I threaded  my  way  among  bowlders,  creeping  under  or 
over,  or  lowering  myself  between  them,  or  worked  it  through 
underbrush;  but  as  there  was  no  snow  to  encounter,  and  the 
close  of  each  day  showed  encouraging  progress,  every  indication 
was  in  favor  of  a hopeful  finale.  On  the  night  of  the  third  day 
in  the  river  canon,  and  the  tenth  of  my  lonely  pilgrimage,  I suc- 
cessfully gained  the  object  of  my  earnest  yearnings,  and  undis- 
couraged efforts.  I had  reached  the  Valley,  and,  with  sympathetic 
Cowper,  felt: — 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


117 


“0  scenes  surpassing  fable,  and  yet  true 
Scenes  of  accomplished  bliss;  which  who'can  see, 

Though  but  in  distant  prospect,  and  not  feel 
His  soul  refresh’d  with  foretaste  of  the  joy.” 

Especially  after  such  experiences.  Once  here,  and  out  of  the 
unknown  region  wherein  I had  been  a wanderer,  every  water-fall 
and  mountain  peak  were  dearly  “familiar  to  me  as  household 
words.”  My  heart  seemed  to  leap  with  very  joy.  In  spirit  I 
metaphorically  embraced  them  as  well-known  friends.  Believe 
me,  there  was  real  felicity  enjoyed  at  such  a moment,  for  I was 
truly  happy.  And 

“When  the  shore  is  won  at  last, 

Who  will  count  the  billows  past  ? ” 

A grateful  addition  to  my  gladness  of  heart  at  reaching  the 
desired  goal  was  the  discovery  that  snow  did  not  interpose  any 
insuperable  obstacles  to  a safe  residence  in  the  grand  old  valley 
during  winter — and  that  Dame  Humor,  as  usual,  was  in  error. 
It  is  true  there  were  numerous  patches  of  snow,  several  feet  in 
depth,  hidden  away  in  shady  places;  but  nearly  the  entire  surface 
of  the  valley  was  found  to  be  free  from  it.  This,  the  sole  object 
of  my  eventful  journey,  being  demonstrated  beyond  preadventure, 
after  a brief  rest,  I left  the  valley  on  the  eleventh  day,  and,  about 
noon  of  the  day  following,  arrived  at  a little  quartz-mill,  far 
down  in  the  canon  of  the  Merced,  where  I once  more  looked  upon 
a human  face.  I will  leave  others  to  guess,  for  they  cannot  fully 
realize,  how  delightfully  welcome  was  that  sight  to  me.  If  any 
one  entertains  a doubt  of  this,  let  him  pass  eleven  days,  alone, 
without  it. 

Upon  the  return  of  my  companions  to  the  settlements  without 
me,  and  the  story  being  told  of  my  having  started  on  through  the 
deep  snow,  alone,  there  were  gloomy  forebodings  expressed  of  my 
never  again  being  seen,  alive.  Colonel  Fine  carefully  treasured 
the  note  of  thanks  I had  sent  him  for  the  use  of  his  donkey,  think- 
ing to  forward  it  to  my  friends,  as  possibly  the  last  souvenir  from 
me!  In  this  they  were  fortunately  disappointed. 


CHAPTER  X. 

EARLY -DAY  REVIEW ALS. 


Variety’s  the  very  spice  of  life, 

That  gives  it  all  its  flavor. 

— Cowper’s  Task , Book  II. 

To-day  is  not  yesterday;  we  ourselves  change;  how  can  our  works  and 
thoughts,  if  they  are  always  to  be  fittest,  continue  always  the  same? 

— Carlyle’s  Essays. 

There  comes  to  me  out  of  the  Past 
A voice,  whose  tones  are  sweet  and  wild, 

Singing  a song  almost  divine, 

And  with  a tear  in  every  line. 

— Longfellow. 

After  the  experiences  narrated  in  the  preceding  chapter,  a 
second  visit  was  paid  Yo  Semite  in  the  ensuing  summer,  for  the 
purpose  of  a thorough  examination  of  the  valley,  with  reference  to 
a suitable  location  for  our  proposed  new  home.  The  choice  fell 
upon  the  site  since  generally  known  as  “ Hutchings’ and  negotia- 
tions were  commenced  for  purchasing  the  possessory  right  of  two 
preemption  claims,  of  160  acres  each,  out  of  which  to  establish 
one  deemed  the  most  desirable.  Owing  to  sundry  delays,  from 
various  causes,  these  were  not  consummated,  and  the  improvements 
thereon  acquired,  until  the  spring  of  1864,  when  terms  were  satis- 
factorily agreed  upon;  and  we  set  out,  with  all  our  household  and 
other  wares,  arriving,  and  taking  possession,  April  20th  of  that 
year — 1864. 

PRIMITIVE  METHOD  OF  TRANSPORTING  SUPPLIES. 

At  that  time  all  our  furniture,  stores,  tools,  and  other  articles, 
had  to  be  carried  fifty  miles  on  the  backs  of  mules  and  horses. 
The  pack-train  was  not  only  the  connecting  link  between  comfort 

and  privation,  but  the  interposing  medium  between  plenty  and  star- 
(118) 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY.  H!> 


FASTENING  ON  THE  PACKS. 


vation ; consequently  packing, 
from  its  necessities,  was  ele- 
vated into  a science,  the  pro- 
fessors and  experts  of  which 
were  Mexican  muleteers. 
The  equal  balancing  of  the 
pack,  and  the  skillful  fasten- 
ing of  it  upon  the  animal, 
required  knowledge,  as  well 
as  practice  and  care.  It 
was  a serious  matter  to  have 
a pack  become  loose,  or  one- 
sided, as  this  called  not  only 


for  its  re-adjustment, 
but,  frequently,  for  re- 
packing. Then  the  de- 
lay thus  caused  brought 
other  trouble,  inasmuch 

sirs 


IN  TROUBLE  FROM  A LOOSE  PACK. 

as  while  this  was  being 
cared  for,  the  remaining  ani- 
mals of  the  train  were  loiter- 
ing; when  others  would  lie 
down  to  rest;  and,  either 
by  an  attempt  to  roll  over, 
or  in  the  effort  to  get  up,  so 
disarrange  their  load  as  to 
necessitate  a repetition  of  the 
service.  This  often  became  q 


MEXICAN  PERSUASION. 

ite  a severe  tax  upon  the  packer’s, 


120 


m THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


patience  (time  was  seldom  an  object  of  consideration  with  repre- 
sentatives of  this  race  in  California),  seldom  an  over-abundant 
article  in  the  possession  of  a Mexican — and,  it  might  be  added, 


PACK-TRAIN  WHEN  IN  MOTION. 

with  people  of  other  nationalities  besides. 
Its  lack  too  frequently  developed  excesses 
in  temper,  attended  frequently  with  much 
brutality ; and  this  very  naturally  reacted 
upon  the  animal’s  resentment  of  a wrong ; 
and,  possibly,  gave  rise  to  the  expression, 
‘‘stubborn  as  a mule.” 


There  is  something  very  pleasing  and 
picturesque  in  the  sight  of  a large  pack- 
train  quietly  ascending  or  descending  a hill,  as  each  animal  care- 
fully examines  the  trail,  and  moves  cautiously,  step  by  step, 
especially  on  a steep  and  dangerous  declivity,  as  though  he  sus- 


INTELLIGENCE  OF  MULES. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


121 


pectecl  danger  to  himself,  or  injury  to  his  pack.  This  is  par- 
ticularly noticeable  on  passing  down  a steep  snow  bank,  when 
heavily  packed;  for,  as  they  cannot  step  forward  safely,  they 
so  dispose  their  feet,  and  brace  their  limbs,  that  they  can,  and 
do,  unhesitatingly  slide  down  it  with  their  load,  in  perfect  safety. 
I have  seen  a train  of  fifty  do  this.  In  some  of  the  more  remote 
settlements,  the  arrival  of  the  pack-train  was  an  event  of  im- 
portance only  secondary  to  that  of  the  expressman,  or  the  mail- 
carrier;  and  its  unpacking  watched  with  as  much  eager  interest 
as  though  it  was  expected  that  some  old-time  friend  would  emerge 
from  between  the  packs. 

ENORMOUS  WEIGHTS  PACKED  BY  MULES. 

The  average  weights  carried  wrould  generally  range  within 

O o O J c> 

two  hundred  and  three  hundred  pounds;  although,  in  some 
instances,  they  have  been  far  in  excess  of  this.  When  the  Yreka 
Herald  was  about  to  commence  publication,  in  1852,  a press  was 
purchased  in  San  Francisco  at  a cost  of  $600,  upon  which  the 
freight  alone  amounted  to  $900.  The  “bed-piece”  weighed  three 
hundred  and  ninety-seven  pounds,  and,  with  the  aparajoes,  ropes, 
etc.,  exceeded  four  hundred  and  thirty  pounds,  which  was  the 
actual  weight  of  the  load.  On  descending  Scott  Mountain,  the 
splendid  animal  carrying  this  load  slipped  a little,  when  the  pack, 
over -balancing,  threw  the  mule  down  a steep  bank,  and  killed  it 
instantly.  In  the  fall  of  1853  an  iron  safe,  nearly  three  feet 
square,  and  weighing  three  hundred  and  fifty-two  pounds,  was 
conveyed  on  a very  large  mule,  from  Shasta  to  Weaverville,  a 
distance  of  thirty -eight  miles,  and  over  a rough  and  mountainous 
trail,  wdthout  an  accident;  but,  after  the  load  was  taken  off,  the 
mule  lay  down,  and  died  in  a few  hours.  A reliable  gentleman 
informed  me  that  in  1855  two  sets  of  millstones  were  packed  from 
Shasta  to  Weaverville,  the  largest  weighing  six  hundred  pounds. 
Deeming  it  an  impossibility  for  one  mule  to  carry  either,  it  was 
tried  to  “ sling”  one  mill -stone  between  two  animals;  but  that, 
proving  impracticable,  the  plan  was  abandoned,  and  it  was  after- 
wards packed,  safely,  upon  one! 


122 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


KIND  OF  MULES  PREFERRED. 

Mexican  mules  were  considered  the  most  desirable,  from  their 
being  accustomed  to  that  work ; and,  having  been  less  tenderly 
reared  than  the  American,  were  less  liable  to  disease.  The  Mexi- 
can mules,  moreover,  are  credited  with  being  tougher  and  stronger 
than  the  American ; and  can  travel  farther  without  food  than  any 
other  quadruped.  It  is  assumed  also  that  this  class  of  animals 
can  carry  a person  forty  miles  per  day,  for  ten  or  twelve  consecu- 
tive days,  and  over  a mountainous  country;  while  it  is  difficult 
for  an  American  mule  to  accomplish  over  twenty -five  or  thirty 
miles  per  day.  Be  this  as  it  may,  the  Mexican  prefers  the  mule 
of  his  own  country  to  that  of  ours,  because  he  considers  the  latter 
altogether  too  delicate  for  his  use.  There  is  another  reason — -and 
a very  effective  one  with  a Mexican — they  can  always  be  kept 
fat  with  little  care,  and  less  to  eat,  and  that  at  irregular  intervals; 
while  the  American  mule,  to  do  about  half  the  amount  of  work, 
requires  good  food,  regularly  given,  and  to  be  otherwise  well 
cared  for.  They  seldom  drink  more  than  once  on  the  warmest  of 
days,  unless  their  efforts  are  very  exacting  and  prolonged.  The 
average  life  of  a mule  is  given  at  sixteen  years ; although  Cali- 
fornia muleteers  used  to  assert  that  “a  mule  never  dies,  but 
simply  dries  up.” 

A PROCESSION  OF  ODDITIES. 

One  used  to  be  astonished  at  the  singular  variety  of  articles 
moving  along  on  the  backs  of  animals,  such  as  buggies,  windows, 
cart-wheels,  wagon-sides,  boxes,  barrels,  bars  of  iron,  tables,  chairs, 
bedsteads,  plows,  and  mining  tools;  and  not  always  with  the 
greatest  of  safety.  Once  a rocking-chair  and  large  looking-glass 
were  sent  us,  but,  when  they  reached  their  destination,  the  chair 
was  broken  into  pieces,  and  the  looking-glass  resembled  a crate  of 
smashed  crockery.  On  the  second  trip  of  our  packer  to  Yo  Semite, 
the  entire  train,  frightened  at  some  sight  by  the  way,  “ stam- 
peded;” when  books  and  jellies,  pictures  and  pickles,  and  other 
sundries,  were  all  indiscriminately  mixed  together,  or  scattered  in 
all  sorts  of  places,  by  the  roadside. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


123 


PRECAUTIONS  ADOPTED  BY  PACKERS. 

T1  ie  Mexicans  almost  invariably  blindfold  each  mule  before 
attempting  to  pack  it;  after  which  he  stands  perfectly  quiet, 
until  the  bandage  is  removed,  no  matter  how  unruly  his  behavior 
was  before.  A mulatero  generally  rides  in  front  of 
the  train  for  the  purpose  of 
stopping  it,  when  anything 
goes  wrong,  and  becomes  a 
guide  to  the  other 
though  in  every  band  of 
horses  or  mules,  there  is 
always  a leader, 
ally  known 
as  the  “ bell  == 


THE  FA.CK.-TR  A IN  AT  NIGHT, 


124 


/V  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


mule,”  or  horse — and  it  is  not  a little  singular  that  nearly  all 
mules  prefer  a white  horse  for  that  purpose — which  they  unhesitat- 
ingly follow  the  moment  he  starts,  or  wherever  he  goes,  by  day 
or  by  night. 

When  about  to  camp,  the  almost  invariable  custom  of  packers, 
after  removing  the  goods  (by  which  they  always  sleep  in  all  kinds 
of  weather),  is  for  the  mules  to  stand  side  by  side,  in  a line  or 
hollow  square,  Avith  their  heads  in  one  direction,  and  each  one  in 
his  customary  place,  before  taking  off  the  aparajoes ;*  and,  in  the 
morning,  when  the  train  of  loose  mules  is  driven  up  from  pasture, 
to  receive  their  packs,  every  one  walks  up  to  his  own  aparcijoe 
and  blanket,  with  the  precision  of  well-drilled  soldiers,  and  rarely 
makes  a mistake. 

Notwithstanding  the  Mexican  packer’s  seeming  nonchalance, 
it  is  almost  incredible  the  amount  of  danger  and  privation  they 
uncomplainingly  undergo,  when  exposed  to  the  elements.  This 
can  be  more  clearly  apprehended  when  the  fact  is  presented  that, 
during  one  severe  winter,  there  was 

A PACK-TRAIN  SNOWED  IN 

Between  Grass  Valley,  Nevada  County,  and  Onion  Valley,  Sierra 
County,  when,  out  of  forty-eight  animals,  only  three  were  taken 
out  alive.  The  packers,  unable  to  get  firewood,  narrowly  escaped 
perishing,  from  being  frozen  to  death.  Their  sufferings  were  inde- 
scribable; yet,  when  safely  out  of  it,  they  only  laughed  at  their 
experiences.  On  one  occasion  our  pack-train  was  several  hours 
belated;  and,  as  snow  had  been  falling  in  heavy  flakes  all  the 
afternoon,  every  passing  minute  only  increased  our  weight  of 
anxiety  for  its  safety.  There  was  no  use  in  further  delay ; for  it 
must  be  sought  after,  and  helped,  if  help  was  needed.  Throwing 
the  saddle  across  my  horse,  and  taking  some  well-lined  saddle- 
bags, I sallied  out  upon  the  storm.  The  animal’s  spirited  move- 
ments proved  her  to  be  in  perfect  sympathy  with  the  occasion,  as 

*An  aparajoe  is  a kind  of  pack-saddle,  or  flatfish  pad,  the  covering  of  which 
is  generally  made  of  leather,  and  stuffed  with  hair.  As  they  are  considered  safer 
and  easier  for  the  animal  than  the  ordinary  pack-saddle,  they  are  always  preferred 
by  Mexicans,  although  their  weight  is  from  twenty-five  to  forty  pounds. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


125 


though  it  was  intuitively  understood  and  appreciated.  As  deeper 
grew  the  snow,  the  stronger  came  the  effort  to  overcome  and  con- 
quer it,  and  that  too  with  a conscious  pride  which  seemed  to  rise 
in  proportion  to  the  difficulties  to  be  surmounted.  Those  who 


CARRYING  DELIVERANCE. 

could  abuse  such  invaluable  and  noble  servants  ought  never  to 
have  the  privilege  of  owning  or  of  using  one. 

On,  on,  we  dashed,  through  the  almost  blinding  snow,  and, 
just  before  dusk,  in  the  near  distance,  broke  the  welcome  sight  of 
the  heavily-laden  pack-train.  With  it  was  the  anxious  Mexican, 
earnestly  engaged  in  the  attempt  to  release  a load  from  a fallen 
mule,  whose  foot  had  found  a hole  in  the  trail.  When  he  saw  me, 
his  somber  face  became  aglow  with  pleasure,  and  his  tongue  spon- 
taneously found  musical  utterances  of  joy.  As  soon  as  the  mule 
was  set  free,  we  both  tried  the  possible  good  that  might  come  from 
a good  drink  of  aguardiente;  and  then,  although  the  Mexican’s 
hands  were  numb,  and  his  limbs  nearly  stiff  with  cold,  the  pack 


126 


IN  THE  HEART  OE  THE  SIERRAS. 


Upon  relating  the  incident  to  the  late  Mr.  Charles  Nahl, 
who  was  unquestionably  the  best  draftsman  of  animals  upon  the 
Pacific  Coast,  he  made  the  accompanying  sketch  to  illustrate  it. 
At  a glance  it  will  be  seen  that  the  skill  of  the  artist  not  only 
portrays  the  limbs  of  the  mules  in  snow,  but  the  determined 
efforts  being  made  to  get  them  out,  in  order  to  secure  deliverance 
and  safety  for  themselves,  and  riddance  for  their  packs. 


was  cheerily  replaced,  and  we  started  on  for  home  and  shelter. 
Human  help  and  brandy  arrived  just  in  time  to  save  both  man 
and  beast.  The  most  rabid  advocate  of  “total  abstinence/’ 
whose  reason  had  not  been  dethroned,  would,  I think,  concede 
the  advantageous  use  of  stimulants,  at  such  a time,  if  only  as 
a medicine.  At  least  let  us  hope  so,  if  only  to  accord  to  him 
the  credit  of  possessing  ordinary  common  sense. 


CAUGHT  JN  A SNOW-STORM. 


THE  ¥ 0 SEMITE  VALLEY. 


127 


“ IMPROVEMENTS  ” IN'  THE  VALLEY. 

These  were  found  to  be  very  limited,  as  they  consisted  of  a 
two-story  frame  building,  sixty  by  twenty  feet,  having  two 
rooms,  an  upper  and  a lower.  Its  doors  and  windows  were  made 
of  cotton  cloth.  Yerily,  a primitive  beginning  for  novices  in  hotel 
keeping.  When  our  first  guests  arrived  (and  their  arrival  caused 
quite  a flutter  in  the  household),  the  ladies  were  domiciled  up- 
stairs, and  the  gentlemen  down.  This  arrangement  we  felt  not 
only  had  its  inconveniences,  but  was  contrary  to  law,  inasmuch 
as  it  sometimes  separated  man  and  wife.  So  novel  a disposition 
of  visitors,  whose  names,  many  of  them  at  least,  were  already 
inscribed  on  the  temple  of  fame,  only  became  a subject  for  mirth- 
fulness, never  of  censure.  They  saw  that  we  were  attemping  our 
best — and  the  very  best  among  us  could  do  no  more — and 
accepted  it  accordingly. 

This,  however  solacing  to  our  sensibilities,  was  not  satisfying* 
to  our  convictions.  We  determined  upon  changing  it.  But 
how?  The  nearest  saw-mill  was  some  fifty  miles  distant,  and 
over  a mountainous  country,  that  was  only  accessible  over  steep 
and  zigzaging  trails.  We  knew  that  almost  anvthing  could  be 

O O O J o 

packed  upon  mules ; we  had  even  seen  our  donkey  trotting  along* 
with  two  wagon-sides  upon  him,  when  only  the  tips  of  his  ears 
and  the  lower  part  of  his  limbs  were  visible;  but  how  could  lum- 
ber be  packed  fifty  miles?  This,  therefore,  was  given  up  as 
Quixotic.  Bolts  of  muslin  could  be  packed,  and  were;  and 
rooms  were  accordingly  made  out  of  that.  Guests,  in  this  way, 
were  thus  provided  with  apartments,  it  is  true;  but,  unless  their 
lights  were  carefully  disposed,  there  were  also  added  unintentional 
shadow-pictures,  which,  if  contributory  of  mirthfulness  in  a 
maximum  degree,  gave  only  a minimum  degree  of  privacy  in 
return.  Better  accommodations  must  be  provided,  no  matter  at 
what  cost  the  lumber  might  be  procured.  Two  men  were  accord- 
ingly engaged  to  run  a human  saw-mill . 

This  method  of  producing  lumber  is  generally  called  ‘'pit- 
sawing.” Owing  to  the  severity  of  the  winter,  the  long  absence 


128 


IK  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


of  sunshine,  and  the  difficulty  of  obtaining  logs,  less  than  fifteen 
hundred  feet  were  cut  that  entire  season.  This  set  us  to  consider- 
ing how  many  thousand  years,  more  or  less,  would  roll  into  the 
past,  before  an  adequate  stock  of  timber  could  be  sawed  for  mak- 
ing the  improvements  absolutely  necessary.  Questioning  the 
probability  of  so  long  an  extension  of  life’s  lease,  the  irons  for  a 
young 

xJ  O 

SAW-MILL,  TO  RUN  BY  WATER, 

Were  procured  from  San  Francisco,  and  a man  employed  to  con- 
struct it,  who  professed  thoroughly  to  understand  just  how  to  do 
it;  but,  when  the  finishing  touches  were  about  to  be  added,  it  was 
discovered  that  the  thing  wouldn’t  run  at  all;  and,  before  the 
needful  changes  could  be  made,  the  water  decreased  so  rapidly 
that  even  the  testing  of  its  capabilities  were  on  the  outside  of  the 
question.  Unlike  a prosy  politician  who,  while  making  his  speech, 
paused  to  take  a drink  of  water,  when  his  opponent  started  to 
his  feet,  and  thus  addressed  the  presiding  officer:  “Mr.  Speaker, 

I rise  to  a point  of  order.”  “ The  member  from will  please  to 

state  his  point  of  order.”  “ My  point  of  order  is  this,  Mr.  Speaker: 

Is  it  in  order  for  the  member  from to  attempt  to  run  his 

wind-mill  by  water?”  ' Whether  that  point  of  order  was  sustained 
or  not  (the  fact  being  unrecorded),  we  knew  that  we  had  made  a 
double  discovery  for  ours;  for  it  would  not  run  either  with  or 
without  water,  and,  although  in  possession  of  a saw-mill,  we  were 
as  far  off  as  ever  from  a supply  of  lumber. 

When  the  richly  colored  leaves  of  autumn  were  being  picked 
off  rapidly  by  the  nightly  freezing  fingers  of  the  frosty  air,  and 
the  wind  in  frolicsome  gustiness  had  begun  to  drop  them  sportively 
on  shady  pools,  or  in  running  streams,  or  to  pile  them  playfully 
in  eddies,  and  hide  them  cautiously  in  sequestered  corners,  busi- 
ness in  Yo  Semite  had  become  as  quiet  and  subdued  as  nature  is 
after  a storm — 

“ And  only  soft  airs  and  sweet  odors  arise. 

Like  the  evening  incense  that  soars  to  the  skies” — 

And  this  suggested  the  present  as  a propitious  season  for  renew- 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


129 


ing  our  attempts  at  improvements.  In  this  mood  the  saw-mill 
was  revisited,  and  its  possibilities  reconsidered.  An  inexperienced 
examination  revealed  a serious  error  in  its  construction,  inasmuch 
as  the  water,  when  the  gate  was  lifted,  rushed  to  the  axle,  instead 
of  to  the  outer  edge  of  the  buckets  in  the  driving  wheel,  and  inun- 
dated it.  No  wheel  could  work  under  such  conditions.  It  must 
be  changed ; but  how  ? when  ? and  by  whom  ? My  knowledge  of 
mechanics  was  about  as  limited  as  that  on  hotel  keeping.  There 
was  one  comforting  reflection  stepped  in  to  my  assistance,- — it  was 
of  no  earthly  use  as  it  stood,  therefore,  its  loss,  should  it  be  utterly 
spoiled,  would  only  be  nominal.  I would  try  to  correct  the  error 
so  strikingly  manifest.  Tools  were  therefore  brought,  and  the 
apparently  desirable  change  made. 

“ EUREKA.” 

Fortunately  a heavy  rain  came,  opportunely,  to  enable  me 
to  make  a testing  experiment.  Timidly  and  cautiously  lifting 
the  gate,  a little  water  was  admitted  to  the  wheel.  It  turned 
briskly  round.  An  additional  quantity  promptly  increased  its 
speed.  With  joy,  although  alone,  I shouted,  “ Eureka ! ” Lumber 
mighF  yet  be  obtained  from  it.  Carefully  setting  and  filing  the 
mill-saw — my  first  attempt— a small  log  was  fastened  in  its  place, 
and  the  mill  started.  To  my  joyful  surprise  the  cut  was  com- 
pleted to  the  end  without  stopping.  Again  the  word  “ Eureka  ” 
was  on  my  lips,  but  was  arrested  by  the  thought — “ Is  it  straight, 
and  true?  ” It  was.  At  this  twofold  success  a boisterous  shout  of 
exultation  at  once  relieved  my  joyous  feelings.  One  cut  con- 
tinued to  be  successfully  made  after  another;  so  that  when  the 
day  closed,  there  was  one-fourth  as  much  lumber  sawed,  single- 
handed,  as  the  two  men  had  made  in  a whole  winter ! Day  by 
day  the  quantity  produced  increased  so  encouragingly  that  we 
felt  justified  in  employing  a good  practical  sawyer,  and  with 
him  a couple  of  carpenters,  so  that  the  much-needed  improve- 
ments could  be  commenced  with  satisfactory  earnestness,  and 
presumptive  hope  of  ultimate  and  early  realization.  It  was  a 
'“one-horse  ” saw-mill,  that  opened  to  us  the  gold  discoverv. 


130 


m THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


PROGRESS  TOWARD  COMFORT 

The  ring  of  the  hammer  and  soft  rasping  sound  of  the  saw 
now  added  their  music  to  that  of  the  water-fall  and  singing  pines, 
and  cloth  partitions  soon  became  numbered  among  the  make-shifts 
of  the  past.  The  old  house  was  rejuvenated  by  porches,  and 
made  convenient  by  lean-to’s,  in  which  were  kitchen,  store,  and 
sitting-room — now  known  as  “The  Big  Tree  Room about  which, 
and  its  associations  and  stories,  more  will  be  said  hereafter. 
Buildings,  made  necessary  by  the  rapidly  increasing  throng  of 
tourists,  began  to  spring  up  as  though  by  magic,  and  no  sooner 
was  one  completed  and  occupied  than  another  was  required.  The 
return  home  of  one  party  of  visitors,  mentally  full  to  overflowing 
with  praises  concerning  the  wonderful  sights  they  had  seen,  super- 
induced others  to  seek  similar  delights.  As  illustrative  and 
demonstrative  of  this,  the  following  carefully  prepared  table  is 
herewith  submitted,  of 


TOURIST  TRAVEL  TO  YO  SEMITE. 


From  1855  to  1864,  a period  of  nine  years,  the  aggregate 
number  of  visitors  to  the  valley  was  653. 


In  1864.. .. 

In  1865  it  increased  to ......  

In  1866  it  increased  to. 

In  1867  it  increased  to.  . . . 

In  1868  it  increased  to 

In  1869  (the  year  the  overland  railroad  was  completed)  it  increased  to.  . . . 

In  1870  it  increased  to 

In  1871  it  increased  to 

In  1872  it  increased  to 

In  1873  it  increased  to 

In  1874  it  increased  to 

In  1875  it  decreased  to 

In  1876  it  decreased  to*. . , 

In  1877  it  decreased  to 

In  1878  it  decreased  to ....  

In  1879  it  increased  to '.  

In  1880  it  increased  to 

In  1881  it  increased  to 

In  1882  it  increased  to. 

In  1883  it  increased  to 

In  1884  it  decreased  to 

In  1885  it  increased  to 


147 

369 

438 

502 

623 

1,122 

1,735 

2,137 

2,354 

2,530 

2,711 

2,423 

1,917 

1,392 

1,183 

1,385 

1,897 

2,173 

2,525 

2,831 

2,408 

,2,590 


In  1886  it  increased  to 


over  4,000 


By  this  it  will  be  seen  that  previous  to  our  advent  there,  for 


Photo,  by  Geo.  Fiske.  Photo-typo  bv  Britton  & Rey,  S.  f. 

The  Thbee  Biiothee:— Pom-pom-pa-sa. 


(See  pages  395-6.) 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


131 


permanent  residence,  in  1864,  the  full  complement  of  visitors,  as 
compiled  from  the  registers  of  that  period,  was  653.  Those 
unregistered  would  probably  swell  the  number  to  about  seven 
hundred — in  nine  years.  It  is  also  interesting  to  note  that  the 
total  number  for  1864  was  147 ; and  this  included  every  man, 
woman,  and  child  that  entered  it,  of  whatsoever  color  or  condition. 

INFLUENTIAL  HELPERS. 

The  table  here  presented  will  also  show  the  stead}^  increase 
in  numbers  from  year  to  year,  as  a knowledge  of  its  marvelous 
grandeur  was  disseminated  by  returning  visitors,  by  newspaper 
and  book  eulogiums,  by  photographs  and  paintings,  and  by 
lectures.  Nor  will  justice  to  the  earnest  first  workers  in  this 
deeply  interesting  field,  both  in  literature  and  art,  permit  me  to 
omit  such  names  as  Horace  Greeley,  Samuel  B.  Bowles,  Albert  D. 
Richardson,  Charles  L.  Brace,  Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney,  Dr.  W.  A. 
Scott,  Rev.  Thos.  Starr  King,  and  a host  of  others,  whose  books, 
newspaper  articles,  and  lectures,  contributed  so  largely  to  extend 
the  fame  of  the  great  Valley : Or  of  C.  L.  Weed,  its  pioneer  photog- 
rapher, and  C.  E.  Watkins,  who  had  no  superior  in  photographic 
art,  and  whose  excellent  prints  have  found  their  way  to  every 
corner  of  civilization.  And,  though  last,  by  no  means  least, 
must  be  mentioned  such  eminent  artists  as  A.  Bierstadt,  Thos. 
Hill,  William  Keith,  Thos.  Moran,  P.  Munger,  A.  Hertzog,  and 
many  more  whose  paintings  have  so  much  contributed  to  the 
public  appreciation  of  its  sublime  scenic  wonders.  In  subsequent 
times,  and  additional  to  the  above,  should  be  included  the  suc- 
cessful labors  of  Benj.  F.  Taylor,  Helen  Hunt  (Jackson),  Mary  E. 
Blake,  and  a multitude  of  other  writers:  Thos.  Houseworth,  Geo. 
Fiske,  Taber,  J.  J.  Reilly,  S.  C.  Walker,  G.  Fagersteen,  and  other 
photographers:  C.  D.  Robinson,  R.  D.  Yelland,  Holdridge,  and  other 
artists — and  all  worthy  helpers  in  advancing  its  renown. 

NEED  FOR  INDIA-RUBBER  ADAPTABILITY. 

At  the  commencement  of  this  encouraging  influx  of  tourists, 
our  utmost  accommodations,  primitive  as  they  were,  were  limited. 


132 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


to  enough  for  twenty-eight.  On  one  occasion,  when  every  room 
was  occupied,  and  just  as  all  were  about  retiring  for  the  night, 
the  muffled  tread  of  horses,  mingled  with  the  sound  of  human 
voices,  was  heard  upon  the  outside.  To  our  dismay  we  learned 
that  a party  of  eleven  had  just  arrived!  What  could  be  done, 
when  every  sleeping-place  already  had  its  occupant?  Dumb- 
founded with  surprised  regret,  the  situation  was  explained  to  the 
new  arrivals. 

“ Cannot  take  care  of  us,  did  you  say?” 

“ That  is  really  the  case,  as  every  bed  we  have  has  now  a 
tenant.” 

“'But,  what  can  we  do,  Mr.  H.?  We  are  all  tired  out — 
especially  the  ladies — and  there  is  no  other  place  where  we  can 
go?”  (at  that  time  ours  was  the  only  inn  at  Yo  Semite.) 

“ Such  an  inquiry  I know  is  very  pertinent  at  such  a time. 
Well,  come  in,  and  we  will  do  the  best  we  can  to  make  you  com- 
fortable. Impossibilities  must  be  made  possible  under  such  cir- 
cumstances.” 

‘■'Thank  you — and  God  bless  you.” 

These  glad  tidings  were  soon  communicated  with  an  exult- 
ant shout  to  those  outside,  and  “three  cheers”  from  the  tired 
travelers  rung  out  upon  the  silent  midnight  air,  sufficiently  loud 
to  awaken  the  now  surprised  sleepers.  Fortunately  a bale  of  new 
California  blankets  had  been  received  but  a few  days  before,  and 
with  these  we  improvised  both  beds,  and  covering.  Provisions 
were  abundant. 

While  supper  was  progressing  with  commendable  zeal,  and 
apparent  satisfaction,  new  sounds  seemed  to  be  floating  on  the 
darkness,  and  the  astounding  revelation  came  with  them  of  the 
arrival  of  eight  others ! Good  Heavens ! why  India-rubber  con- 
trivances would  be  inadequate  for  such  emergencies.  Any  num- 
ber of  queries  at  best,  however,  would  prove  but  indifferent  sub- 
stitutes for  bedding  and  food.  These,  too,  must  be  cared  for,  in 
some  way.  And  they  were.  The  antiquated  proverb,  “ It  never 
rains  but  it  pours,”  now  became  strikingly  illustrated;  for,  before 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


133 


morning  dawned,  other  arrivals  had  increased  the  number  of 
guests  to  fifty-seven ! twenty-eight,  be  it  remembered,  being  the 
maximum  limit  in  accommodation.  The  most  remarkable  feature 
of  this  then  unparalleled  advent  of  visitors  remains  to  be  told: 
Twenty-seven  departures  occurred  one  morning,  nineteen  the  fol- 
lowing, the  next  day  every  one  of  the  remainder  left  us,  and  but 
five  persons,  altogether,  arrived  at  Yo  Semite  in  thirty-one  days 
thereafter!  Such  experiences  are  by  no  means  proportionally 
infrequent  in  hotel  life  here,  even  at  this  present  day. 

As  time  gently  lifted  its  misty  veil  new  revelations  of  majesty 
and  beauty  were  almost  constantly  being  added  to  the  already 
comprehensive  galaxy  of  wonderful  sights,  and  the  necessities  of 
the  hour  called  for  the  surveying  and  constructing  of  horse-paths 
to  these  newly  discovered  scenic  standpoints.  Bridges  were  built, 
and  wagon-roads  made  passable  on  the  floor  of  the  valley,  to  sub- 
serve the  convenience  of  those  who  were  unable  to  enjoy  the 
exhilerating  exercise  of  horse-back  riding.  This  progressive 
development,  moreover,  was,  at  that  day,  accomplished  entirely 
by  private  enterprise. 

In  due  season  new  hotels  sprung  up  into  existence;  and,  in 
addition  to  “the  butcher  and  baker,  and  the  candlestick  maker,’ 
came  the  store,  the  blacksmith’s  shop,  laundry,  bath  and  billiard 
rooms,  cabinet  shop  for  Yo  Semite-grown  woods,  and  other  con- 
veniences needed  by  the  incoming  visitor. 

As  the  history  of  Yo  Semite,  for  nearly  a quarter  of  a cent- 
ury, has  been  so  closely  interwoven  with  the  filaments  and  threads 
of  one’s  own  life,  it  makes  it  difficult  to  draw  the  line  of  demark- 
ation  between  that  which  should  be  introduced,  and  such  as 
ought  to  be  ommitted.  In  this,  as  in  several  other  matters,  I hope 
to  bespeak  the  reader’s  discriminating  sympathy  and  kindly  for- 
bearance should  any  desirable  facts  be  unrecorded,  or  undesirable 
ones  find  a place. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

CABIN  HOMES  AT  YO  SEMITE. 

You  must  come  home  with  me  and  be  my  guest; 

You  wilt  give  joy  to  me,  and  I will  do 
All  that  is  in  my  power  to  honor  you. 

— Shelley’s  Hymn  to  Mercury- 
No  little  room  so  warm  and  bright, 

Wherein  to  read,  wherein  to  write. 

— Tennyson. 

The  glorious  Angel,  who  was  keeping 
The  gates  of  light,  beheld  her  weeping; 

And,  as  he  nearer  drew  and  listen’d 
To  her  sad  song,  a tear-drop  glisten’d 
Within  his  eyelids,  like  the  spray 
From  Eden’s  fountain,  where  it  lies 
On  the  blue  flow’r,  which — Bramins  say — 

Blooms  nowhere  but  in  Paradise. 

— Moobe’s  Lalla  Bo okil — Paradise  and  the  Peri. 

There  are  probably  not  many  persons,  even  nvhen  philosophic- 
ally predisposed,  who  can  fully  comprehend  the  possibility  of 
comfort  and  contentment  in  such  an  isolated  locality  as  Yo  Sem- 
ite, for  a home  in  winter  as  well  as  in  summer,  unless  in  unison 
with  the  sentiments  of  Euripides,  that, 

“Not  mine 

This  saying,  but  the  sentence  of  the  sage 
4 N othing  is  stronger  than  necessity.  ’ ” 

But  if  to  this  be  added  a suggestive  stanza  from  Mary  Howitt: 

‘ ‘ In  the  poor  man’s  garden  grow, 

Far  more  than  herbs  and  flowers, 

Kind  thoughts,  contentment,  peace  of  mind, 

And  joy  for  weary  hours,” 

There  may  be  disclosed  the  soothing  sedative  of  resignation  to 
tolerate  and  endure  it.  Still,  to  the  many,  every  moment  of 

such  a life  would  bring  its  burden  of  irksomeness,  and  perhaps  of 

134 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


135 

absolute  repugnance,  if  only  from  its  apparently  unrelieved 
mdnotonousness.  So  much,  however,  are  we  dependent,  not  only 
upon  ourselves,  but  upon  each  other,  for  mutual  assistance  and 
happiness  at  such  a time,  that  we  can  either  make  or  mar  its 
pleasures,  as  we  may  elect.  Isolation  does  not  necessarily  foster 
loneliness  or  inquietude,  only  as  our  own  waywardness  or  neglect 
may  lead  to  these.  The  principal  objection  to  such  a life  is  in  its 

utter  helplessness  in  times  of 
sickness  and  danger,  or  of 
death,  especially  when — as  in 
our  experience — oar  nearest 
neighbor  was  thirty  miles 
away,  and  beyond  mountains 
that  were  impassable. 

After  satisfactory  demon- 
stration that  a residence  at 
Yo  Semite  in  winter  was  pos- 
sible, as  narrated  in  a preced- 
ing chapter,  Mr.  Jas.  C. 
Lamon,  who  formed  one  of 
our  setting-out  party  on  that 
occasion,  was  the  first  to  try 
the  experiment,  and  spent  the 
winters  of  1862-63  and  1863 
-64  there  entirely  alone.  As 
Mr.  Lamon  was  long  and 
favorably  known  by  visitors, 
not  only  for  his  uniform  kindness  and  many  manly  virtues,  but 
as  one  of  the  early  settlers  in  Yo  Semite,  I feel  that  this  work 
would  be  incomplete  without  his  portrait  and  a brief  biographical, 
outline. 

Mr.  James  C.  Lamon  was  born  in  the  State  of  Virginia  in 
1817.  In  1835  he  emigrated  to  Illinois;  and  from  there  to  Texas, 
in  1839.  In  1851  he  arrived  in  California,  and  located  in  Mari- 
posa County,  where,  in  connection  with  David  Clark,  he  engaged 


JAMES  C.  LAMON. 


136 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


in  the  saw-mill  and  lumber  business,  until  1858.  In  June,  1859, 
he  arrived  in  Yo  Semite,  and  assisted  in  building  the  upper  hotel, 
since  known  as  the  Hutchings  House.  In  the  fall  of  that  year 
he  located  a pre-emption  claim  at  the  upper  end  of  the  valley ; 
cultivated  it  for  garden  purposes,  planted  a fine  orchard,  and 
built 


THE  LAMON  CABIN. 

THE  FIRST  LOG-CABIN  IN  YO  SEMITE. 


By  his  indomitable  will,  assisted  by  his  general  intelligence- 
and  unflagging  industry,  to  which  were  united  habits  of  temper- 
ance and  frugality,  and  the  denial  to  himself  of  many  comforts, 
he  caused  the  spot  known  as  Lamon’s  Garden,  once  a wilderness, 
“to  blossom  as  the  rose,”  and  “Lamon’s  Berry  Patch”  and 
orchard,  to  become  synonymous  with  enjoyment;  the  memory  of  a 
visit  to  which  was  pleasurably  treasured  by  tourists,  throughout 
the  civilized  world. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


137 


As  the  lofty  mountains  surrounding  his  cabin  and  garden 
threw  long  and  chilling*  shadow-frowns  upon  him  during*  winter, 
he  erected  a small  house  on  the  sunny  side  of  the  valley;  and,  as 
a precaution  against  Indian  treachery,  lived  in  its  basement. 
This,  however,  being*  flooded  during  a heavy  and  continuous  rain, 
he  afterwards  built  a commodious  log-cabin,  that,  upon  emer- 
gency, might  be  to  him  both  a fortress  and  a home.  The 
land  around  it  he  fenced  and  cultivated;  and  it  now — under 
the  vigilant  care  of  Mr.  A.  Harris — presents  a picture  of  pastoral 
loveliness  which  is  in  striking  contrast  to  that  outside  of  it. 

COMMISSIONERS  AND  STATE  ACTION. 

Notwithstanding  these  valuable  and  attractive  additions  to 
the  enjoyments  of  the  valley,  the  Board  of  Yo  Semite  Commis- 
sioners declined  in  every  way  to  recognize  his  rights  as  a bona 
fide  settler,  and  he — with  the  writer — was  notified  that  he  must 
take  a lease  of  all  his  premises  from  them,  on  or  before  a given 
time,  or  leave.  As  neither  of  us  would  accept  either  of  these 
alternatives,  there  ensued  the  conflict  briefly  outlined  in  the  suc- 
ceeding chapter,  which  resulted,  finally,  in  the  State’s  recog- 
nizing at  least  the  equities  of  our  claims,  and  the  payment  to  Mr. 
Lamon,  in  1874,  of  $12,000  as  compensation  therefor. 

HIS  DEATH. 

This  modest  sum,  the  fruits  of  fifteen  years’  laborious  toil, 
although  so  much  calculated  to  smooth  the  pathway  of  his  declin- 
ing years,  by  lifting  him  above  financial  care,  was,  in  its  enjoy- 
ment, of  very  brief  duration;  for,  just  as  he  had  begun  to  realize 
the  full  fruition  of  its  blessedness,  death  came  with 

“ That  golden  key 
That  cpes  the  palace  of  eternity,  ” 

May  22,  1875,  at  the  age  of  58  years.  His  remains  are  interred 
in  the  Yo  Semite  Cemetery,  near  Yo  Semite  Falls,  amid  the  scenes 
of  grandeur  he  loved  so  well;  and  here  a monolith  of  Yo  Semite 
granite  marks  the  spot  where  he  rests. 


138 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


HIS  SUPPOSED  MURDER 

Incidental  mention  is  above  made  of  Mr.  Lamon ’s  residence 
in  the  Yo  Semite  Valley  two  winters  alone,  without  a neighbor, 
or  even  a friendly  dog,  to  keep  him  company.*  Supplemental  to 
this  there  is  a sequel  that  deserves  a kindly  record : While  thus 
passing  his  lonely  existence  there,  an  Indian  had  been' seen  in  the 
settlements  with  a fine  gold  watch,  that,  it  was  surmised,  belonged 
to  Mr.  Lamon.  Fearing  that  its  supposed  owner  had  been  mur- 
dered, as  well  as  robbed,  three  friends  left  Mariposa — one  of  whom 
was  Mr.  Galen  Clark,  for  many  years  the  guardian  of  the  valley, 
and  still  a much  respected  resident  there — for  the  purpose  of 
ascertaining  the  facts  of  the  case.  Upon  arrival,  to  their  great 
joy,  they  found  the  man,  presumably  murdered,  busily  engaged  in 
preparing  his  evening  meal.  Both  Mr.  Lamon  and  his  watch 
were  proven  to  be  safe.  It  can  readily  be  conjectured  that  their 
congratulations  and  rejoicings  must  have  been  mutual,  although 
viewed  from  widely  different  standpoints. 

THE  HUTCHINGS  CABIN. 

“Of  all  the  homes  that  I have  seen,  in  all  my  travels,  this  is  the  most  delectable.  ” 

— Canon  Kingsley. 

As  the  sun  did  not  rise  upon  the  hotel  until  half  past  one  in 
the  afternoon,  and  set  again,  there,  at  half  past  three ; so  small  a 
modicum  of  sunlight  caused  us  to  look  out  from  the  depressing  and 
frosty  shadows  of  our  mountainous  surroundings,  to  the  bright- 
ness, of  the  opposite  side;  and  created  within  us  a longing  for  the 
sunlight  that  was  there  bathing  every  tree  and  mountain  with 
cheerfulness  and  joy.  “ Ah ! ” we  would  all  spontaneously  ejacu- 
late, “that  is  the  place  to  live,  in  winter.”  Even  the  poultry, 
that  huddled  together  in  a corner  shiveringly,  would  look  at  us 
with  seeming  remonstrance,  as  though  they  would  admonish  us  to 
remove  them  over  there. 

“ Besides,”  the  ladies  would  exclaim,  “how  beautifully  pict- 
uresque a log-cabin  would  look  over  yonder  in  the  sunlight,  with 


He  was  never  married. 


Photo-typo  by  Bfjtton  & Re 


! 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


139 


a dark  rich  setting  of  oaks  around  it;  to  say  nothing  of  the  pleas- 
ure of  listening  to  the  grandest  of  perpetual  anthems  from  the 
Yo  Semite  Fall,  just  at  its  back;  or  of  the  homelike  comfort  there 
would  be  within  and  around  it.  ’ ’ 

A site  possessing  the  qualities  deemed  most  desirable  was 
accordingly  selected,  and  a “ log-cabin,”  in  all  its  symmetrical  pro- 
portions and  artistical  surroundings,  began  to  stand  out  upon  the 
landscape.  How  cheerily  anxious  did  the  gentler  sex  watch  the 
placing  of  each  and  every  log,  and  sometimes  assisted  in  putting 
them  in  position.  By  degrees,  and  with  the  assistance  of  our 
neighbor,  Mr.  Lamon,  and  his  cattle,  it  was  finished.  One  rock 
formed  the  mantel,  and  another  the  hearth-stone,  of  our  broad  and 
cheery  open  fire-place.  Our  greatest  trouble  was  with  the  chim- 
ney— it  would  smoke.  Everybody,  ‘"including  his  wife,”  is 
familiar  with  the  adage  that  “ a smoking  chimney,  and  scold- 
ing   , etc.  [we  had  not  the  latter],  are  among  the  greatest 

trials  of  life.”  Finally,  by  means  of  books  (for  we  had  no  practi- 
cal knowledge)  we  learned  that  “a  chimney,  to  draw  well,  should 
never  be  less  than  twice  the  size  of  the  throat,  from  the  latter  to 
the  top,  which  should  always  be  above  the  house.”  This  principle, 
when  applied  to  ours,  made  it  an  eminent  success.  And  this  item 
is  here  introduced  for  the  benefit  of  those  having  that  dire  inflic- 
tion— a smoky  chimney. 

The  cabin,  therefore,  with  all  its  comfort-adding  appoint- 
ments, became  a delightful  reality,  and  soon  sheltered,  a happy 
and  contented  family,  though  entirely  isolated  from  the  great 
throbbing  heart  of  the  world  outside.  On  bright  days  we  enjoyed 
the  blessed  sunshine  from  nine  in  the  morning  until  half -past 
three  in  the  afternoon — a gratifying  contrast  to  the  other  side — 
and,  when  the  storm  swooped  down  upon  us,  we  listened  thank- 
fully to  the  music  of  the  rain  upon  the  roof,  and  to  the  wind 
among  the  tree-tops,  or  the  rushing  avalanches  down  the  mount- 
ain-sides; or  watched  the  crystal,  forms  of  the  fast-falling  snow 
upon,  or  from,  our  windows;  or  our  busy  little  snow-bird  guests 

eating  their  daily  meal  of  crumbs  from  off  the  window-sill. 

10 


140 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


THE  TRUE  SECRET  OF  HUMAN  HAPPINESS. 

It  must  not,  however,  be  supposed  that  our  daily  life  here 
was  like  that  pictured  by  some  dreamy  Christians  of  the  life 
hereafter — “ sitting,  placidly,  on  a cloud,  and  blowing  a silver 
trumpet.”  Far  from  it.  Every  day  brought  its  duties,  in  fair 
weather  or  in  foul.  Here,  too,  we  learned  a secret,  and  one  worth 
revealing,  as  it  is  one  in  which  the  daily  happiness  of  all  largely 
consists — it  is  that  of  having  constant  and  pleasant  occupation, 
for  both  body  and  mind.  This  will  count  better  in  results,  and 
go  farther,  than  any  number  of  gilded  theories,  for  this  life  or 
the  next.  There  are  always  to  be  found  some  kindly  services  to 
be  rendered,  or  duties  to  be  performed,  not  only  in  the  family 
circle,  but  in  the  teeming  world  around  us,  if  we  do  not  allow 
ourselves  to  shirk  them.  And,  believe  me,  the  noble  and  con- 
scientious performance  of  a generous  act,  brings  with  it  a full 
and  present  reward,  without  waiting  for  that  expected  in  the 
hereafter.  To  those  who  have  both  leisure  and  means — and  they 
must  be  poor  indeed  who  have  not  some — I would  say,  “ Know 
you  not  some  poor  child,  or  woman,  or  man,  to  whom  you  can 
carry  some  blessing,  if  only  that  of  help  and  sympathy?”  By  so 
doing,  you  not  only  assist  to  make  up  their  heaven,  and  an 
earthly  one  for  yourselves,  but,  in  my  judgment,  much  better  please 
the  loving  God,  whom  you  profess  to  serve.  If  there  should  ever 
come  a new  religion,  it  will  be  founded  upon  humanity,  as  being 
more  nearly  akin  to  the  beneficent  and  ennobling  plan  of  the 
Infinite  One.  Think  of  this.  ■ 

Returning  from  this  diversion,  if  you  could  have  taken  a 
glimpse  on  the  inside  of  our  cabin  on  a winter’s  night,  you  would 
have  seen  not  only  a bright  log  fire,  and  clean  hearth-stone,  but  a 
little  circle  of  bright  faces;  almost  aglow  with  watching  the 

o J O O 

phantom  forms  that  might  come  and  go  among  the  scintillations 
of  the  blazing  heat;  or,  with  busy  thoughts  were  weaving  gossa- 
mer plans  of  future  happiness;  while  nimble  fingers  were  plying 
the  needle,  or  knitting  yarn  that  had  been  carded  and  spun 
from  Yo  Semite-grown  wool,  with  their  own  hands. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


141 


We  professed  to  take  turns  at  reading,  aloud,  from  some 
mutually  interesting  book;  but  the  writer  discovered  that  the 
recurrence  came  most  frequently  to  the  occupant  of  the  large  home- 
made manzanita  chair.  Remonstrance  even  only  brought  back 
the  rejoinder  that,  as  he  had  no  sewing  or  knitting  to  do,  and  was 
such  an  excel — etc.,  etc.,  reader,  it  would  seem  most  eminently 
proper  that  he  should  favor  the  company  with  another  chapter ! 
Sometimes  a song  at  others  a game  of  whist,  or  euchre,  would  add 
a pleasing  variety  to  the  entertainment.  Saturday  evenings  were 
especially  devoted  to  cards  and  song,  as  then  our  only  neighbor, 
Mr.  Lamon,  would  come  out  from  his  hermit-like  solitude  and 
grace  the  circle  with  his  presence,  and  cheer  it  with  his  converse ; 
occasionally  dining  with  us  on  Sunday  afternoons.  It  may  appear 
almost  incredible  to  confess  that,  notwithstanding  this  constant 
round  of  seeming  sameness  and  isolation,  there  was  an  utter 
absence  of  the  feeling  of  loneliness.  Many  times  the  query  has 
been  put,  questioningly,  “Do  you  not  feel  such  entire  seclusion 
from  the  world  oppressive?”  and  the  response  was  promptly  and 
conscientiously  returned,  “No.  We  should,  perhaps,  if  we  had 
time  to  think  about  it ! ” 

Thus  our  long  winter  evenings  and  stormy  days,  while  put- 
ting us  into  enjoyable  social  communion  with  each  other,  supplied 
also  the  opportunity  of  conversing  with  great  authors,  through 
their  works,  of  which,  fortunately,  we  had  nearly  eight  hundred 
volumes,  collected,  mainly,  while  publishing  the  old-time  Califor- 
nia Magazine.  Our  summers  were  made  delightful  by  pleasant 
converse  with  the  kindliest  and  most  intelligent  people  upon  earth, 
many  of  whom  were  eminent  in  letters,  in  science,  and  in  art. 
Who,  then,  with  this  elevating  companionship,  and  its  many 
advantages,  united  with  such  sublime  surroundings,  could  help 
loving  the  Yo  Semite  Valley,  and  being  contented  with  it  as  a 
home,  even  though  isolated  from  the  great  world  outside? 

In  after  years,  as  residents  in  the  valley  became  more  nu- 
merous— and  some  winters  since  then  we  have  had  over  forty, 
including  children — the  circle  of  neighbors  proportionately 


142 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


extended,  and  our  divertisements  would  include  parties,  sleigh- 
rides,  and  snow-shoe  excursions. 

THE  ORCHARD  AND  STRAWBERRY  PATCH. 

The  spring  succeeding  the  completion  of  the  cabin,  called  for 
the  cultivation  and  fencing  of  a garden-ground,  and  the  planting 
of  an  orchard.  Many  of  the  trees  for  the  latter  were  grown 
from  seeds  of  choice  apples  that  had  been  sent  us,  the  plants  from 
which  were  afterwards  budded  or  grafted.  In  this  way  a thrifty 
orchard,  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  trees,  came  into  being, 
and  now  bears  many  tons,  annually,  of  assorted  fruit. 

To  this,  in  due  time,  was  added  a large  strawberry  patch, 
that  afterwards  became  famous  from  its  productiveness  and  the 
quality  of  its  fruit.  Here  perhaps  may  be  given  a single  illustra- 
tion of  the  difficulties  to  be  overcome  in  such  a far-off  corner  of 
the  earth.  The  pomological  works  of  the  day  were  full  to  over- 
flowing with  praises  of  a certain  variety  of  this  valuable  berry. 
Specimens  were  sent  for,  the  price  asked  accompanying  the  order. 
When  the  plants  arrived,  owTing  to  the  mails  of  that  day  coming 
by  Panama,  and  the  necessary  delays  attending  their  delivery  in 
the  Valley,  they  were  all  dried  up  and  dead.  Others  were  ordered, 
which,  upon  arrival,  were  falling  to  pieces  from  excessive 
moisture.  The  mail-bag  containing  the  next  parcel,  owing  to  its 
too  close  contact  with  the  steamship’s  funnel,  was  nearly  burnt 
up,  and  with  it  the  new  invoice  of  strawberry  plants.  As  it  is 
never  wise  to  become  discouraged,  or  to  give  up  until  you  win, 
in  some  form,  or  prove  such  a feat  to  be  impossible,  still  others 
were  sent  for;  and  this  time  with  success,  as  thirteen  living  plants 
rewarded  our  perseverance.  These  thirteen  small  rootlets  cost  us 
exactly  $45.00.  Still,  what  was  that  sum  in  comparison  with 
their  future  value?  With  careful  culture,  these  increased  to 
thousands ; and  many  of  the  largest  bunches  produced  nearly  two 
hundred  berries  each ! In  after-times,  delicious  strawberries  could 
be  gathered  ad  libitum;  what,  then,  was  $45.00  for  such  a lux- 
ury? especially  when  to  this  is  added  that  of  success. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


143 


PLANTING  AN  AVENUE. 

To  connect  the  high  ground  near  the  hotel  on  the  south  side 
of  the  valley  with  that  at  the  cabin  on  the  north  side,  and  at  the 
same  time  make  the  Yo  Semite  Fall  and  other  attractions  acces- 
sible to  visitors,  a causeway  was  thrown  up  across  the  interven- 
ing meadow,  and  an  avenue  of  elms  planted  on  either  side,  that 
were  grown  from  seed  sent  us  by  the  Rev.  Joseph  Worcester 
of  Waltham,  Massachusetts.  But  few  of  these  now  survive, 
as,  during  my  absence  in  the  mountains  on  one  occasion,  some 
thoughtless  young  men  cut  them  down  for  walking-canes,  and 
carried  them  off.  I hope  when  they  see  this,  they  will  feel  their 
cheeks  warm  with  shame;  but  I would  not  go  as  far  as  Young,  in 
his  “ Night  Thoughts,”  and  say, 

“ Shame  burn  thy  cheeks  to  cinders,” 

As  that  would  be  rather  too  severe  and  heavy  a penalty. 

BRIEF  ABSENCE  FROM  THE  VALLEY. 

Owing  to  the  current  of  events  briefly  chronicled  in  the  ensu- 
ing chapter,  necessity,  not  choice,  impelled  my  absence  from  the 
valley  for  a season ; inasmuch  as  the  Board  of  Commissioners,  of 
that  time,  became  so  much  angered  at  my  unfaltering  persistency 
in  resenting  their  claims,  that  they  would  not  even  lease  to  me  the 
old  premises,  after  all  other  matters  had  been  adjusted,  and  the 
title  to  both  land  and  improvements  had  legally  passed  into  their 
hands.  They  evidently  overlooked  the  fact  that  I was  contend- 
ing for  a home  for  my  family  and  self,  and  to  which  we  believed 
ourselves  honorably  entitled  under  a United  States  general  law 
— a home  made  sacred,  too,  by  many  memories,  and  where  each  of 
our  three  children  were  born — and  my  convictions  then,  as  now, 
were  that  any  man  who  would  not  defend  his  hearth- stone  and 
his  home,  to  the  last  drop  of  his  life-blood,  when  he  felt  that 
right  was  on  his  side — even  when  against  “ forty  millions  of 
people,”*  and  a half  dozen  Boards  of  Commissioners  thrown  in — 
belittled  his  manhood,  and  proved  himself  unworthy  of  the  respect 

*See  chapter  XII. 


144 


IJSf  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


accorded  to  his  race.  Those  very  Commissioners,  if  standing  in 
my  place,  would  (1  hope)  have  acted  as  I did.  It  is  much  to  be 
regretted,  however,  that  some  of  those  men  still  live,  demonstra- 
lively,  for  no  other  purpose  than  to  perpetuate  their  old  antagon- 
isms. I am  their  superior  in  one  thing- — I have  learned  to  forgive. 
Life  is  too  short,  and  too  uncertain,  to  fritter  it  away  in  unprofit- 
able and  ignoble  frictions,  and  has  a holier  mission. 

By  an  Act  of  the  State  Legislature,  at  its  session  of  1880, 
and  a subsequent  decision  of  the  Supreme  Court,  the  old  Board  of 
Commissioners  was  retired,  and  a new  one  appointed  by  the 
Executive  in  its  place,  April  19,  1880.  The  new  Board  elected 
the  writer  “Guardian  of  the  Valley;”  and,  upon  my  return,  Mr. 
John  K.  Barnard,  the  lessee  of  my  old  premises,,  with  considerate 
and  large-hearted  kindness,  again  placed  the  dear  old  cabin 
indefinitely 'at  my  disposal;  and  through  his  continued  courtesy, 
it  has  been  my  fondly  cherished  residence  ever  since. 

But  it  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  so  rare  and  supernal  a 
flower  as  unalloyed  happiness  could  ever  germinate  and  bloom  in 
earthly  dwellings.  This  would  be  to  convert  terrestrial  habitations 
into  celestial.  Hence  the  angel  of  sorrow,  and,  alas!  of  death, 
with  drooping  or  baneful  wings,  is  frequently,  though  uninvitedly, 
permitted  to  enter  human  homes  and  hearts.  It  was  thus  with 
us.  Our  gifted  daughter  Florence- — given  to  us  during  the  event- 
ful  first  year  of  our  residence  here,  and  whose  birth  was  note- 
worthy from  the  fact  that  she  was  the  first  white  child  horn  at 
Yo  Semite — was  called  away  from  us  in  her  eighteenth  year,  just 
as  she  was  blooming  into  womanhood  and  great  prospective  use- 
fulness. With  agonized  hearts,  and,  seemingly,  helpless  hands, 

“ We  watched  her  breathing  through  the  night, 

Her  breathing  soft  and  low, 

As  in  her  breast  the  wave  of  life 
Kept  heaving  to  and  fro. 

‘ ‘ Our  very  hopes  belied  our  fears, 

Our  fears  our  hopes  belied; 

We  thought  her  dying  when  she  slept, 

And  sleeping  when  she  died.” 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


145 


Nor  was  ours  the  only  Yo  Semite  home  thus  visited  at  this  season; 
as  Eftie,  the  beautiful  step-daughter  of  Mr.  J.  K.  Barnard, 

“ Passed  through  glory’s  morning  gate, 

And  walked  in  Paradise” 

Only  about  thirty  days  before.  The  portrayal  of  this  dual  loss  and 
affliction,  so  feelingly  presented  by  my  late  beloved  and  gifted 
wife,  Augusta  L.,  is  gratefully  transcribed  from  the  San  Fran- 
cisco Evening  Post,  for  which  she  was  special  correspondent : — 

Big  Tree  Room,  Barnard’s  Hotel,  ) 

Yo  Semite  Valley,  Sept.  28,  1881.  \ 

It  has  seemed  that  the  Angel  of  Death  had  overlooked  this  u gorge  in 
the  mountains,”  but  at  length  he  lias  learned  how  sweet  were  the  flowers 
that  bloom  in  our  beautiful  valley.  First,  he  came  for  our  lily — sweet, 
gentle,  spiritual  Eflie,  beloved  daughter  of  this  house.  For  a long  time 
he  stood  afar  off,  and  sent  only  withering  glances  and  baleful  breath, 
under  which  she  slowly  drooped  and  faded  from  our  sight,  till  her  life 
passed  away  with  the  summer,  for  on  its  last  day  she  left  us  for  a home 
among  the  angels.  Gifted  with  rare  esthetic  tastes  and  talents,  which 
these  grand  scenes  were  developing  and  cultivating,  she  would  doubtless 
have  been  prominent  among  those  who  shall  interpret  and  perpetuate  by 
their  sketches,  the  poetic  beauties  of  Yosemite.  We  chose  her  a final 
resting-place  in  a grove  of  noble  oaks,  where  Tissaac,  goddess  of  the  valley, 
keeps  constant  watch;  and  the  sun’s  last  rays,  reflected  from  her  brow, 
give  each  evening  their  parting  benison  upon  her  slumbers,  while  the 
singing  waters  of  Cholock*  murmur  an  eternal  lullaby. 

As  we  were  around  her  grave,  rendering  the  last  services,  prominent 
over  all,  in  a band  of  young  friends  singing  “ Safe  in  the  Arms  of  Jesus,” 
stood  the  glorious  rose  of  this  wild  nature — Florence  (“our  Floy”),  eldest 
daughter  of  Mr.  Hutchings,  guardian  of  the  valley.  Full  of  exuberant, 
gushing  life,  she  has  shed  far  and  wide  its  fragrance.  The  child  of  the  val- 
ley, for  she  was  the  first  white  child  born  within  these  inclosing  walls,  and 
the  greater  part  of  her  life  spent  here,  her  whole  being  was  permeated 
with  its  influences.  Nothing  daunted  her,  nothing  gave  her  so  much 
pleasure  as  the  occasion  to  help  others.  Generous,  unselfish,  her  deeds  of 
kindly  courtesy  will  long  be  remembered  by  a vast  number  of  visitors, 
who  have  enjoyed  their  benefit  and  been  interested  in  her  bright,  original 
thoughts;  for  her  mind,  though  unsystematic  in  its  training,  was  well 


*The  Yo  Semite  Fall. 


146 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


stocked  with  good  material,  and  she  was  rapidly  developing  into  a grand 
woman. 

But  again  the  dread  angel  looked  down,  and  without  waiting  to  give 
warning  to  those  who  held  her  close  to  their  hearts,  with  one  fell  swoop 
caught  her  to  his  breast,  and  bore  her  away;  that  the  Lily  and  Rose 
might  bloom  side  by  side,  in  a garden  where  no  frost  can  blight,  no  tem- 
pest uproot,  and  the  ever-outgoing  perfume  of  their  blossoms  shall  enter  our 
lives  to  purify  and  bless  them.  So  we  have  laid  her,  who,  only  a week 
before  she  was  called  away,  was  climbing  heights  and  scrambling  through 
ravines  where  only  eagles  might  be  looked  for,  under  the  same  oaks  with 
Effie;  and  the  dearly  loved  friends  in  life,  who  there  seemed  to  us  to  be  so 
quietly  resting  together,  are  doubtlessly  wandering  hand  in  hand  through 
fairer  scenes  than  even  these  they  loved  and  enjoyed  so  much. 

Oh!  the  questionings  that  come  up  as  to  the  why  and  the  wherefore. 
As  an  Indian  woman,  with  a puny,  sickly  infant,  bound  in  its  basket,  that 
has  been  wailing  and  whining  all  its  little  life  of  two  years,  unable  even 
to  sit  or  crawl,  came  to  take  a last  look  at  the  plucked  Rose,  I could  not 
but  ask  myself  why  such  an  apparently  useless  and  burdensome  existence 
was  allowed  to  go  on,  while  the  helpful,  earnest,  energetic  life  had  been 
quenched.  But  “ God  knows.” 

Mr.  Robinson,  the  artist,  from  San  Francisco,  who,  in  the  absence  of 
a clergyman,  read  the  solemn  burial  service  of  the  Episcopal  Church,  as 
Mr.  Hutchings  had  done  upon  the  former  sad  occasion,  read  also  the  fol- 
lowing beautiful 

IN  MEMORIAM. 

Florence  Hutchings,  born  August  23,  1864.  Died,  September  26,  1881.  Of 
a bold,  fearless  disposition,  warm  and  generous  temperament,  far  advanced  and 
original  in  thought  beyond  her  years,  with  a kind  word  and  pleasant  greeting  for 
every  one.  Always  ready  to  do  a self-denying  action,  or  an  act  of  kindness;  such 
was  she  who  now  lies  cold  and  pallid  before  us.  She  was  the  first  white  child 
ever  born  in  the  Yosemite  Valley,  and  the  same  giant  walls  that  witnessed  her  birth 
shall  keep  watch  and  ward  over  her  grave  through  all  time.  The  music  of  the 
great  Cholock  that  sang  in  cheerfulness  through  her  infancy  and  childhood,  shall 
chant  an  eternal  requiem  over  her  early  grave.  Here,  in  her  grand  and  lonely 
home,  where  almost  every  rock,  tree,  and  blade  of  grass  were  known  to  her,  and 
were  her  playthings  and  playfellows  in  childhood,  and  the  objects  of  her  contem- 
plation and  veneration  in  youth,  shall  she  lay  down  to  her  calm  and  peaceful 
rest.  Eternal  music  shall  be  hers — the  winds  sighing  through  the  tall  pine  trees, 
the  murmur  of  the  great  water-falls,  and  the  twilight  calls  of  the  turtle  doves  to 
each  other  from  their  far-off  homes,  the  heights  Tocoyse*  and  Law-oo-too.  All 


North,  and  South  Domes. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


147 


nature  unites  to  lull  to  rest  and  peace  and  quiet  the  gentle  dead.  So,  friends, 
temper  your  griefs  to  calmness,  with  the  consolation  that  if  the  loss  is  yours, 
the  gain  is  God’s. 

Ahwahnee,*  who  could  protect  its  first  born  in  youth  and  life,  will  guard  her 
with  a loving  mother’s  embrace  in  death.  Let  us  leave  her  in  resignation  and 
cheerfulness,  knowing  that  it  is  but  a span  between  the  hour  that  has  called  her 
from  us,  and  the  one  which  is  to  summon  us  also  to  the  unknown,  whence 
no  one  returns.  And  as  she  calmly  lies,  with  all  nature  whispering  love  and  pro- 
tection over  her  last  resting-place,  let  us  in  reverence  depart,  and  leave  her  soul 
in  joy  and  peace,  safe  in  the  arms  of  the  good  and  great  God  who  gave  it,  for  so 
brief  a season,  to  gladden  her  parents’  hearts,  and  bloom  within  the  world. 

Mr.  B.  F.  Taylor,  in  his  charmingly  sunny  book,  “ Between 
the  Gates,”  page  238,  makes  the  following  suggestion:  “ Let  us 
give  the  girl,  for  her  own  and  her  father’s  sake,  some  graceful 
mountain  height,  and,  let  it  be  called  ‘Mt.  Florence!’”  This 
complimentary  suggestion,  through  the  kindness  of  friends,  has 
been  carried  out ; as  one  of  the  formerly  unnamed  peaks  of  the 
High  Sierra  now  bears  the  name  of  “ Mt.  Florence.”  This  is  best 
seen  and  recognized  from  Glacier  Point,  and  Sentinel  Dome. 

In  less  than  six  brief  weeks  after  our  daughter  Florence  had 
passed  through  the  Beautiful  Gate,  the  unwelcome  angel  again 
visited  the  old  cabin,  and  this  time  carried  away  the  devoted  and 
beloved  companion  of  my  life,  my  beloved  and  devoted  wife,  after 
an  illness  of  only  a few  hours.  Without  lingering  too  long  upon 
these  chastening  experiences,  let  me  add  that  her  endearing 
qualities  may  be  summed  up  in  one  expressive  line:— 

“ Think  what  a wife  should  be,  and  she  was  that.” 

The  beautiful  gems  of  art  that  still  adorn  our  cabin  within  are 
nearly  all  the  work  of  her  own  hands  and  skill ; and,  with  many 
other  souvenirs,  the  creations  of  her  own  genius,  are  ever  cherished 
as  sacred  memories,  memorid  in  ceternd. 

When  the  mystic  ligature  of  love  joins  human  hearts,  and 
the  vacant  chair  tells,  silently,  of  the  enforced  absence  of  its  once 
loving  occupant,  bringing  back  reminders  of  happy  greetings  ere 
you  crossed  the  threshold,  as  of  life’s  long  summer’s  day  of  joy, 

*The  great  Indian  chief  of  antiquity. 


148 


IX  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


to  be  yours  with  them  no  more — it  is  then,  ah ! then , that  real 
loneliness  strikes  home  to  the  heart. 

Much  of  this,  however,  has  been  alleviated  in  past  years  by 
the  many  kindnesses  of  visitors  who  have  honored  and  brightened 
the  old  cabin  with  their  cheering  and  refining  presence;  and  to 
its  occupant  have  given  unalloyed  pleasure  by  their  refreshing 
converse.  It  has  been  his  acceptable  pastime  for  many  years  to 
gather  any  fragmentary  curios  that  were  representative  of  moun- 
tain life  and  circumstances;  such,  for  instance,  as  the  cones  and 
seeds  of  the  different  kinds  of  pine  and  fir,  and  other  forest  trees- 
— including  those  of  the  Big  Tree  with  its  foliage  and  wood; 
specimens  of  our  beautiful  ferns,  and  flowers;  Indian  relics,  with 
samples  of  their  food;  pieces  of  glacier-polished  granite;  snow- 
shoes  (of  home  manufacture),  for  both  valley  use  and  mountain 
climbing;  and  those  used  upon  horses  for  sleigh-riding  and  haul- 
ing* over  the  mountains,  and  about  which  more  will  be  said  here- 
after.  In  grateful  return  for  the  honor  of  a visit,  he  has  tried 
to  explain  these,  and  given  the  why  and  the  wherefore  concerning 
them ; and,  moreover,  still  cherishes  the  hope  of  its  indulgence  for 
many  years  to  come. 

At  the  west  end  of  the  cabin  is  a small  workshop  (a  necessary 
appendage  to  an  isolated  life  and  residence),  which  also  answers 
for  a wood-shed  in  winter.  At  the  back  is  another  lean-to,  which 
comprises  a kitchen,  pantry,  and  store-rooms,  and  at  the  eastern 
end  a bedroom.  The  attic,  or  roof -room,  is  sometimes  also  used 
as  a sleeping  apartment — and  once,  during  a heavy  flood  (to 
be  talked  over  by  and  by)  as  a place  of  refuge  for  ourselves  and 
household  wares,  when  the  waters  were  at  their  highest. 

A little  west  of  north  from  this  spot,  apparently  but  a short 
distance  off,  while  in  reality  it  is  nearly  three-quarters  of  a mile 
away,  the  Yo  Semite  Fall  makes  a leap  of  over  two  thousand  five 
hundred  feet  over  the  edge  of  the  cliff,  and  in  one  bound  clears 
fifteen  hundred  feet.  The  surging  roll  of  the  music  from  this  fall  is 
a constant  and  refreshing  lullaby  to  slumber,  and  never  wearies. 
With  so  many  enduring  charms,  then,  is  it  a wonder  that  one 
clings  with  admiring  fondness  to  such  a home? 

o o 


CHAPTER  XII. 


CONGRESSIONAL  AND  STATE  ENACTMENTS  CONCERNING 

YO  SEMITE. 

Think  that  day  lost  whose  low  descending  sun 
Views  from  thy  hand  no  noble  action  done. 

— Rob  art. 

That  action  is  best  which  procures  the  greatest  happiness  for  the  greatest 
numbers. 

— Hutchinson’s  Moral  Good  and  Evil. 

I have  always  thought  the  actions  of  men  the  best  interpreters  of  their 
thoughts. 

— Locke’s  Human  Understanding , Book  /. 

While  some  of  the  occurrences  narrated  in  preceding  chapters 
were  transpiring,  the  Hon.  John  Conness,  U.  S.  Senator  for 
California,  in  concert  with  Mr.  I.  W.  Raymond  and  others,  con- 
ceived a plan  for  the  cession,  by  Congress,  of  the  Yo  Semite  Val- 
ley, and  its  more  immediate  surroundings,  with  the  Mariposa  Big 
Tree  Grove,  to  the  State  of  California,  for  the  purpose  of  setting 
them  apart,  and  protecting  them  as  public  parks.  Mr.  Conness 
accordingly  introduced  the  following  bill  in  the  United  States 
Senate,  which  was  promptly  passed  by  both  branches  of  Con- 
gress : — 

An  Act  authorizing  a grant  to  the  State  of  California  of  the  “ Yo  Semite 

Valley and  of  the  land  embracing  the  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Grove. 

ACT  OF  CONGRESS  GRANTING  YO  SEMITE  TO  THE  STATE  * 

Be  it  enacted  by  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  of  the 
United  States  of  America  in  Congress  assembled;  That  there  shall  be, 
and  is  hereby,  granted  to  the  State  of  California  the  “ cleft  ” or  “ gorge  ” 
in  the  granite  peak  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  situated  in  the  county 

*See  United  States  Statutes  at  Large,  for  1864,  page  325. 

(149) 


150 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


of  Mariposa,  in  the  State  aforesaid,  and  the  headwaters  of  the  Merced 
River,  and  known  as  the  Yo  Semite  Valley,  with  its  branches  or  spurs, 
in  estimated  length  fifteen  miles,  and  in  average  width  one  mile  back 
from  the  main  edge  of  the  precipice,  on  each  side  of  the  valley,  with  the 
stipulation,  nevertheless,  that  the  said  State  shall  accept  this  grant  upon 
the  express  conditions  that  the  premises  shall  be  held  for  public  use, 
resort,  and  recreation;  shall  be  inalienable  for  all  time;  but  leases  not 
exceeding  ten  years  may  be  granted  for  portions  of  said  premises.  All 
incomes  derived  from  leases  of  privileges  to  be  expended  in  the  preserva- 
tion and  improvement  of  the  property,  or  the  roads  leading  thereto;  the 
boundaries  to  be  established  at  the  cost  of  said  State  by  the  United 
States  Surveyor-General  of  California,  whose  official  plat,  when  affirmed 
by  the  Commissioner  of  the  General  Land  Office,  shall  constitute  the  evi- 
dence of  the  locus,  extent,  and  limits  of  the  said  cleft  or  gorge;  the 
premises  to  be  managed  by  the  Governor  of  the  State  with  eight  other 
Commissioners,  to  be  appointed  by  the  Executive  of  California,  and  who 
shall  receive  no  compensation  for  their  services. 

Sec.  2.  And  be  it  further  enacted:  That  there  shall  likewise  be,  and 
there  is  hereby,  granted  to  the  State  of  California  the  tracts  embracing 
what  is  known  as  the  “Mariposa  Big  Tree  Grove,”  not  to  exceed  the 
area  of  four  sections,  and  to  be  taken  in  legal  subdivisions  of  one  quarter 
section  each,  with  the  like  stipulation  as  expressed  in  the  first  section  of 
this  Act  as  to  the  State’s  acceptance,  with  like  conditions  as  in  the  first 
section  of  this  Act,  and  to  be  taken  in  legal  sub-divisions  as  aforesaid;  and 
the  official  plat  of  the  United  States  Surveyor-General,  when  affirmed  by 
the  Commissioner  of  the  General  Land  Office,  to  be  the  evidence  of  the 
locus  of  the  said  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Grove. 

Approved,  June  30,  1864. 

The  news  of  this  generous  donation  was  first  made  known  to 
the  California  public  through  the  columns  of  the  .San  Francisco 
Evening  Bulletin  of  August  9,  1864,  as  we  had  no  railroads  or 
telegraph  lines  across  the  continent  in  those  days.  In  prompt 
responsive  acknowledgement  on  the  part  of  the  State  was  issued 

THE  GOVERNOR’S  PROCLAMATION. 

State  of  California,  Executive  Department,  ) 
Sacramento,  September  28, 1864.  j 

Whereas,  The  United  States,  by  an  Act  passed  at  the  first  session 
of  the  thirty-eighth  Congress,  has  granted  to  this  State  the  territory  com- 
prising the  “ Yosemite  Valley  and  the  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Grove,”  to  be 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


151 


held  and  used  for  the  purpose  mentioned  in  said  Act;  and  whereas- 
it  is  also' provided  in  the  Act  that  the  management  and  control  of  the 
tracts  of  land  shall  be  confided  to  a Board  of  Commissioners  to  be 
appointed  by  the  Governor. 

Now  therefore,  be  it  known,  that  I,  Fred’k  F.  Low,  Governor  of  the 
State  of  California,  by  virtue  of  the  authority  in  me  vested,  have 
appointed  Fred.  Law  Olmsted,  Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney,  William 
Ashburner,  I.  W.  Raymond,  E.  S.  Holden,  Alexander  Deering, 
George  W.  Coulter,  and  Galen  Clark,  said  Commissioners,  to  whom 
is  confided  the  management  of  the  aforesaid  tracts  of  land.  And  I hereby 
warn  and  command  all  persons  to  desist  from  trespassing  or  settling  upon 
said  territory,  and  from  cutting  timber  or  doing  any  unlawful  acts  within 
the  limits  of  said  grant. 

All  propositions  for  the  improvement  of  the  aforesaid  tracts  of  land, 
or  for  leases,  should  be  made  to  the  Commissioners,  through  Fred.  Law 
Olmsted,  Bear  Valley,  Mariposa  County. 

In  testimony  whereof,  I have  hereunto  set  my  hand  and  caused  the 
Great  Seal  of  the  State  of  California  to  be  affixed,  this  tw7enty- eighth  day 
of  September,  1864. 

[l.  s.J  FRED’K  F.  LOW, 

Governor  of  California. 
Attest:  B.  B.  Redding,  Secretary  of  State. 

By  F.  W.  Redding,  Deputy 

During  the  sixteenth  session  of  the  State  Legislature  was 
enacted  the  following: — 

ACT  OF  ACCEPTANCE. 

An  Act  to  accept  the  grant  by  the  United  States  Government  to  the  State 
of  California  of  the  Yosemite  Valley  and  the  Mariposa  Big  Tree 
Grove,  and  to  organize  the  Board  of  Commissioners,  and  to  fully 
empoiver  them  to  carry  out  the  objects  of  the  grant  and  fulfill  the 
purposes  of  the  trust.  (Chap.  I)  XXXV I of  the  Statutes  of  California 
passed  at  the  16th  Session  of  the  Legislature,  1865-66.) 

Whereas,  By  an  Act  of  Congress  entitled  an  Act  authorizing  a 
grant  to  the  State  of  California  of  the  Yosemite  Valley,  and  of  the  land 
embracing  the  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Grove,  approved  June  30,  A.  d.,  1864, 
there  was  granted  to  the  State  of  California  in  the  terms  of  said  Act  said 
Valley  and  the  lands  embracing  said  Grove  upon  certain  conditions  and 
stipulations  therein  expressed;  now,  therefore, 

The  people  of  the  State  of  California,  represented  in  Senate  and 
Assembly,  do  enact  as  folloivs: — 


152 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


Section  1.  Tlie  State  of  California  does  hereby  accept  said  grant 
upon  the  conditions,  reservations,  and  stipulations  contained  in  said  Act 
of  Congress. 

Sec.  2.  The  Governor,  and  the  eight  other  Commissioners,  Frederick 
Law  Olmsted,  Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney,  William  Ashburner,  I.  W.  Raymond, 
E.  S.  Holden,  Alexander  Deering,  George  W.  Coulter,  and  Galen  Clark, 
aj)pointed  by  him  on  the  twenty-eighth  day  of  September,  eighteen 
hundred  and  sixty-four,  in  accordance  with  the  terms,  of  said  Act,  are 
hereby  constituted  a Board  to  manage  said  premises,  and  any  vacancy 
occurring  therein  from  death,  removal,  or  any  cause,  shall  be  filled  by  the 
appointment  of  the  Governor.  They  shall  be  known  in  law  as  “ The 
Commissioners  to  manage  the  Yosemite  Valley  and  the  Mariposa  Big 
Tree  Grove,”  and  by  such  name  they  and  their  successors  may  sue  and  be 
sued,  and  shall  have  full  power  to  manage  and  administer  the  grant  made 
and  the  trust  created  by  said  Act  of  Congress,  and  shall  have  full  power 
to  make  and  adopt  all  rules,  regulations,  and  by-laws  for  their  own  govern- 
ment, and  the  government,  improvement,  and  preservation  of  said  premises 
not  inconsistent  with  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States  or  of  this 
State,  or  of  said  Act  making  the  grant,  or  of  any  law  of  Congress  or  of  the 
Legislature.  They  shall  hold  their  first  meeting  at  the  time  and  place  to 
be  specified  by  the  Governor,  and  thereafter  as  their  own  rules  shall  pre- 
scribe, and  a majority  shall  constitute  a quorum  for  the  transaction  of 
business.  They  shall  elect  a President  and  Secretary,  and  any  other 
officers  from  their  number  as  their  rules  may  prescribe. 

Sec.  3.  None  of  said  Commissioners  shall  receive  any  compensation 
for  their  services  as  such.  They  shall  have  power  to  appoint  a Guardian 
either  of  their  number  or  not,  of  said  premises,  removable  at  their  pleasure, 
to  perform  such  duties  as  they  may  prescribe,  and  to  receive  such  com- 
pensation as  they  may  fix,  not  to  exceed  five  hundred  dollars  per  annum. 

Sec.  4.  The  Commissioners  shall  make  a full  report  of  the  condition 
of  said  premises,  and  of  their  acts  under  this  law,  and  of  their  expendi- 
tures, through  the  Governor,  to  the  Legislature,  at  every  regular  session 
thereof. 

Sec.  5.  The  State  Geologist  is  hereby  authorized  to  make  such  further 
explorations  on  the  said  tracts  and  in  the  adjoining  region  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  Mountains  as  may  be  necessary  to  enable  him  to  prepare  a full 
description  and  accurate  statistical  report  of  the  same,  and  the  same  shall 
be  published  in  connection  with  reports  of  the  Geological  Survey. 

Sec.  6.  It  shall  be  unlawful  for  any  person  willfully  to  commit  any 
trespass  whatever  upon  said  premises,  cut  down  or  carry  off  any  wood, 
underwood,  tree,  or  timber,  or  girdle  or  otherwise  injure  any  tree  or  tim- 
ber, or  deface  or  injure  any  natural  object,  or  set  fire  to  any  wood  or  grass 


TEE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


153 

upon  said  premises,  or  destroy  or  injure  any  bridge  or  structure  of  any 
kind,  or  other  improvement  that  is  or  may  be  placed  thereon.  Any  per- 
son committing  either  or  any  of  said  acts,  without  the  express  permission 
of  said  Commissioners  through  said  Guardian,  shall  be  guilty  of  a mis- 
demeanor, and  on  conviction  thereof  shall  be  punished  by  fine  not  exceed- 
ing five  hundred  dollars,  or  by  imprisonment  in  the  county  jail  not 
exceeding  six  months,  or  by  both  such  fine  and  imprisonment. 

Sec.  8.  This  Act  shall  take  effect  immediately. 

Approved  April  2,  1866. 

ADVERSE  ACTION  TOWARDS  THE  SETTLERS. 

This  liberal  and  conservative  concert  of  action  between  Con- 
gress and  the  State  of  California,  was  doubtlessly  made  with  the 
implied  understanding  that  no  private  rights  were  in  any  way 
invaded  or  jeoparded  thereby.  In  this,  however,  subsequent  pro- 
ceedings proved  that  both  the  contracting  parties  were  in  error; 
inasmuch  as  the  Board  of  Commissioners,  created  by  the  foregoing 
acts,  notified  Mr.  J.  C.  Lamon  and  myself — the  only  bona  Jicle  set- 
tlers— that  we  must  take  a lease  of  the  premises  occupied  by  us 
from  them,  on  or  before  a given  time;  or,  failing  to  do  this,  they 
would  lease  them  to  other  parties,  “ and,  early  in  the  ensuing 
spring,  take  all  necessary  measures  for  installing  the  new  tenants 
into  possession.” 

Under  the  beguiling  hallucination  that  the  Preemption  Laws 
of  the.  United  States  were  a sacred  compact  between  the  Govern- 
ment and  the  citizen,  I took  the  liberty  of  notifying  the  Secretary 
of  the  Board,  in  reply,  that  in  my  judgment  it  would  be  time 
enough  for  the  Commissioners  of  the  Yo  Semite  Valley  to  exercise 
authority  over  my  house,  or  my  horse,  or  anything  that  I pos- 
sessed, after  they  had  proven  a better  title  to  either  than  I had 
got,  and  that  I remained  very  respectfully,  etc. 

SUIT  OF  EJECTMENT  COMMENCED. 

Believing  that  bona  fide  settlers  were  intrenched  and  fortified 
behind  the  bulwarks  of  National  Law  as  well  as  of  right,  and 
never  doubting  of  ultimate  success,  the  march  of  improvement 
kept  commensurate  progress  with  the  constantly  increasing  army 


154 


JJV  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


of  visitors.  But  about  a year  after  the  service  of  the  notice  above 
mentioned,  the  terms  of  which  had  been  declined,  a legal  bomb 
was  thrown  into  our  midst,  in  the  shape  of  “a  suit  of  ejectment” 
against  the  writer,  as  a test  case  for  all  parties. 

STATE  ACTION  IN  THEIR  BEHALF. 

While  this  action  was  in  abeyance  in  the  District  Court,  a 
memorial  to  the  State  legislature  was  prepared,  and  numerously 
signed  by  a large  majority  of  the  prominent  residents  of  the 
county  of  Mariposa,  asking  favorable  legislation  in  behalf  of  the 
Yo  Semite  settlers.  This  was  accorded  by  an  Act  passed  in  the 
Assembly  by  a vote  of  55  to  9,  and  in  the  Senate  with  only  two 
dissenting  voices,  surrendering  to  Mr.  Lamon  and  myself  all  the 
State’s  right  and  title  to  each  of  our  quarter-sections.  Resolu- 
tions were  also  adopted  memorializing  Congress  for  confirmation 
of  the  same.  This  act  not  receiving  the  approval  of  the  Governor, 
H.  H.  Haight,  it  was  carried  over  his  veto,  by  a vote  of  41  to 
11  in  the  Assembly,  and  by  27  to  10  in  the  Senate,  thus  making 
it  a State  law,  notwithstanding  the  objections  of  the  Governor. 
By  some  kind  of  clerical  hocus  pocus,  however,  this  enactment 
was  spirited  away  ( ?)  and  could  not  be  found  in  time  for  its  incor- 
poration among  the  printed  laws  of  that  session  ; although  it  had 
received  the  necessary  signature  of  the  presiding  officers  of  both 
Senate  and  Assembly ! It  was  afterwards  resurrected  from  some 
vaulted  recess  of  the  State  capitol,  and  is  now  among  the  archives 
of  the  Secretary  of  State. 

Inasmuch  as  the  State’s  favorable  course  in  our  behalf 
required  the  indorsement  of  Congress,  to  give  it  full  legal  effect, 
and  establish  a perfect  title  in  us  to  the  land  thus  settled  upon, 
the  memorial  adopted  by  the  Legislature,  and  another  numerously 
signed,  from  citizens,  with  a certified  copy  of  the  Act,  were 
transmitted  to  Congress  through  the  Hon.  Geo.  W.  Julian,  Chair- 
man of  the  Committee  of  Public  Lands,  of  the  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives, asking  Congressional  action  upon  this  question. 
Through  the  influence  of  Mr.  Julian — who  has  always  been  the 


Photo,  bv  S.  C.  Walker. 


Photo-typo  by  Britton  & Rey,  S.  F. 


The  Yo  Semite  Fall— Cho-lock— In  Early  Spring. 


(See  page  377.) 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


155 


uncompromising  friend  of  the  settler — and  the  unanimous  vote 
■of  the  Committee  of  Public  Lands,  an  Act  passed  the  House 
embodying  the  necessary  provisions,  without  a dissenting  voice. 
Owing,  however,  I deeply  regret  to  say,  to  the  most  grossly 
unfair  and  untruthful  representations  of  its  enemies,  when  the 
measure  was  considered  in  the  Committee  of  Public  Lands  of  the 
United  States  Senate,  a majority  of  one  caused  an  unfavorable 
report  to  be  adopted  by  that  committee;  and  no  action  was  taken 
upon  it  in  the  Senate,  before  Congress  adjourned. 

Be  it  remembered  that  until  Congress  had  ratified  the  action 
of  the  legislature  of  California  in  our  behalf,  the  homes  we  had 
founded  in  this  wild  gorge  of  the  mountains,  and  every  dollar 
expended  here,  were  in  jeopardy,  notwithstanding  the  beneficent 
provisions  of  the  United  States  Preemption  Laws.  It  is  only  just 
here  to  state  that  the  Board  of  Commissioners  considerately 
refrained  from  pressing  their  suit  of  ejectment,  for  a time,  after 
State  action  in  our  behalf,  pending  that  of  Congress,  for  or 
against  us;  but,  finally,  calling  it  up  for  trial  in  the  District  Court, 
owing  to  its  unquestioned  equities,  judgment  Avas  entered  for 
defendant,  and  against  the  Board  of  Commissioners. 

As  notice  of  appeal  to  the  State  Supreme  Court  had  been 
filed,  and  fearing  that  the  same  ruling  might  be  made  there  in 
this  as  in  the  Suscol  Banch  case,  although  widely  differing  to  the 
latter  in  many  of  its  conditions  and  merits,  Congressional  action 
was  again  sought.  In  hopes  of  preventing  the  defeat  this  time  of 
so  pre-eminently  just  a measure,  by  questionable  if  not  positively 
dishonorable  means,  and  to  be  present  to  meet  any  statement  or 
inquiry,  I visited  Washington  the  ensuing  winter,  determined 
that  the  case  should  have  fair  play,  if  possible,  whether  it  stand 
or  fall  thereby. 

AN  INCIDENTAL  DIGRESSION  ABOUT  A VISIT  TO  WASHINGTON. 

I hope  to  be  forgiven  for  a short  digression  here,  if  only  to 
show  how  an  obliging  act  will  sometimes  secure  for  the  doer  the 

honor  ( !)  of  a title.  During  the  summer  of  1869 — the  year  the 
W 11  S J 


156 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


great  overland  railroad  was  opened  from  Omaha  to  Sacramento 
• — the  “ corps  editorial  ” was  largely  represented  from  the  Eastern 
States,  as  visitors  to  California  and  Yo  Semite,  and  among  them 
some  from  Washington,  I).  C.  At  that  time  the  only  turnpike- 
road  nearing  the  valley  still  lacked  twenty-five  miles  of  comple- 
tion, and  the  intervening  space  between  the  stage  and  the  Valley 
being  over  a mountain  trail,  could  only  be  traveled  on  saddle 
animals.  As  necessity  required  that  I should  supply  these,  and 
a certain  kind  of  superintendence  was  needed,  I had  ridden  to  the 
western  end  of  this  intermission  of  country,  and  was  returning^ 
when  I met  a passenger  far  behind  his  companions,  who  was  in 
trouble  with  his  unpersuasive  horse.  I of  course  stopped,  and 
asked  the  reason,  when  the  following  colloquy  ensued: — 

“Mr.  H.,  I cannot  induce  this  animal  to  keep  up  with  the 
others.  How  is  it?” 

“He  knows  that  you  are  a tourist,  and  is  making  the  best 
of  his  knowledge.” 

“ What  am  I to  do?  At  the  rate  I am  traveling  I shall  not 
be  able  to  reach  the  station  by  midnight!” 

“Take  my  horse — he  will  carry  you  through,  on  time.” 
“What!  Change  animals,  here,  on  the  road?” 

“ Certainly.  Mine  will  attend  strictly  to  business,  and, 
when  your’s  finds  out  that  I am  his  rider,  he  will  also  make  the 
discovery  that  I am  not  a tourist,  and  will  give  me  no  trouble.” 
The  exchange  was  accordingly  made,  and,  waving  a hasty  adieu, 
each  started  at  a lively  gait,  in  different  directions.  This  gentle- 
man proved  to  be  one  of  the  editors  of  a Washington  evening 
paper. 

Upon  my  arrival  at  the  nation’s  capital,  and  accidentally 
meeting  the  before-mentioned  editor,  he  gave  me  most  cordial 
greeting,  with  invitations  to  dine  with  him,  etc. ; and  in  the  issue 
of  his  paper  of  that  evening  there  appeared  a notice  that  “Colonel 

H of  Yo  Semite,  had  arrived,  and  would  be  warmly  welcomed 

by  his  many  friends,”  etc.,  etc..  On  the  succeeding  day  we  again 
met,  and  indulged  in  the  following  confab: — 


THE  TO  SEMITE  TALLEY. 


157 


“ I see  that  I am  promoted!” 

“.Yes!  How  is  that?  ” 

“ I have  always  understood  that  I belonged  only  to  the  ‘full 

privates ; ’ but  I see  by  your  last  evening’s that  you  have 

promoted  me  to  be  a Colonel!” 

With  a mischievous  twinkle  lurking  in  the  corner  of  his  eye, 
came  the  courteous  reply:  “Ah!  that’s  all  right  When  you 
have  been  a resident  of  Washington  as  long  as  I have,  you  will 
find  that  a stranger  coming  here,  without  a title,  is  placed,  socially, 
at  great  disadvantage,  and  I thought  you  deserving  of  a good 
send  off!  Besides,  whenever  I have  remembered  that  horse  trade 
we  made  upon  the  mountain  trail,  I have  laughed  over  the  inci- 
dent, many  times.  I am  convinced  that  instead  of  promoting 
you  to  be  a colonel,  only,  I ought  to  have  made  you  a general — 
and  will,  next  time  (!).” 

BEFOBE  THE  UNITED  STATES  SENATE  COMMITTEE  OF  PUBLIC  LANDS. 

Upon  the  reassembling  of  Congress,  the  Act  which  passed  the 
House  of  Representatives  at  its  previous  session,  was  again  intro- 
duced by  Mr.  Julian,  and  again  promptly  passed  by  that  body. 
Taking  the  usual  course  of  similar  measures,  it  was  again  referred 
to  the  United  States  Senate  Committee  of  Public  Lands.  Deeply 
anxious  that  no  act  of  omission  or  of  commission  on  my  part 
should  endanger  its  successful  consideration  before  that  committee, 
(and  let  it  not  be  overlooked  that  I was  working  in  the  interest  of 
our  little  mountain  homes)  I first  waited  upon  its  chairman — 
then  Senator  Pomeroy,  of  Kansas — and  explained  to  him  the 
whole  matter.  Looking  me  straight  in  the  eye,  he  thus  addressed 
me : — 

“Do  you  say,  sir,  that  you  are  a settler  in  Yo  Semite  Val- 
ley?” “ I do,  Senator.”  “What  is  the  actual  date  of  your  settle- 
ment there?  ” Responsive  to  this  inquiry  I supplied  Senator  Pom- 
eroy, not  only  with  the  day  of  my  settlement  there,  and  that  of 
those  whose  possessory  rights  I had  purchased,  but  also  with  Mr. 
Lamon’s — the  time  and  circumstances  of  which  are  narrated  in  the 


158 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


preceding  chapter — accompanying  these  with  the  substantiating 
testimonials  of  prominent  Californians,  well  acquainted  with  the 
facts.  After  a long  pause  the  Senator  again  addressed  me  as 
follows : — 

REPREHENSIBLE  REPRESENTATION  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  SENATE. 

“ Mr.  Hutchings,  sir,  I am  perfectly  astounded  at  your  state- 
ments, the  proofs  of  which  are  positive  and  incontrovertible. 
Why,  sir,  I distinctly  remember  when  the  matter  was  under 
discussion  in  the  United  States  Senate,  putting  this  question  to 
Senator  Conness,  the  author  of  the  Bill : 'Are  there  any  settlers 
upon  that  land?  ’ — accompanying  the  question  with  the  remark 
— 'because,  if  there  are,  their  rights  must  be  respected,’  and  the 
senator  from  California  made  answer,  'No.  Not  one  (!).’  With 
that  assurance  I gave  my  fullest  support  to  the  Bill.” 

But  for  this  foundationless  statement,  then,  there  can  arise 
but  little  doubt  that  the  rights  of  settlers  at  Yo  Semite,  as  else- 
where, would  have  been  protected.  Here  originated  the  wrong- 
doing ; and  the  successive  troubles  that  beset  and  followed  us  in 
after  years.  And  sacredly  do  I treasure,  and  would  here  most 
gratefully  record,  how  steadfastly  the  sentiment  and  sympathy 
of  the  California  public  continued  with  us,  to  brighten  and  cheer 
us,  even  to  the  end.  Subsequent  action,  also,  abundantly  proved 
that  if  the  State,  at  any  time,  had  desired  the  homesteads  of  the 
Yo  Semite  settlers,  it  would  have  made  honorable  provisions  for 
acquiring  them — not  wrested  them  wrongfully  away  from  them. 

MISTAKEN  "PUBLIC  POLICY.” 

" Public  policy”  was  the  misleading  and  delusive  key-note 
struck  for  prevaricating  and  unprincipled  opposition  to  the  meas- 
ure. "It  was  a question  between  forty  millions  of  people  and 
two  men,”  reasoned  the  adversary.  (It  is  hoped  that  becoming 
credit  will  be  accorded  the  " two  men  ” for  having  pluck  enough 
to  "breast  the  breach”  against  "forty  millions  of  people!”) 
Conceding  this,  would  not  the  " forty  millions  ” — a few  of  the 
meaner  ones  excepted,  perhaps — have  preferred  the  equitable 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


159 


acquisition  of  our  legally  obtained  lands — legally  obtained,  if  the 
Preemption  Laws  meant  anything,  notwithstanding  the  technical 
rulings  of  the  courts — than  to  wrest  them  wrongfully  from  us, 
even  though  it  should  have  taken  the  one-thousandth  part  of  one 
mill  each,  more  or  less,  from  the  aforesaid  ‘‘forty  millions  of 
people”  to  have  accomplished  this. 

HOW  INTERVALS  OF  LEISURE  WERE  EMPLOYED. 

Of  course  necessary  delays  would  continually  occur  in  the 
action  of  Congressional  Committees,  and  from  other  causes;  delays 
that  would  have  proven  a heavy  drain  upon  one’s  patience  as 
well  as  finances,  had  I not  devoted  the  interim  to  the  apparently 
accepted  mission  of  my  life — the  dissemination  of  knowledge  on 
the  charming  realities  of  Yo  Semite.  To  accomplish  the  one,  and 
subserve  the  other,  therefore,  in  addition  to  frequent  visits  to 
Washington  for  conferences  wTitli  Congressional  members,  I gave 
some  eighty-seven  illustrated  lectures  on  Yo  Semite,  sometimes  to 
audiences  of  over  three  thousand.  The  results  of  this  action  were 
three-fold;  first,  in  giving  pleasant  occupation  to  leisure  hours; 
second,  by  assisting  my  finances  (Mr.  Lamon  being  too  poor  to 
contribute  anything) ; and,  third,  by  inviting  the  interested  atten- 
tion of  the  public  to  the  marvelous  grandeur  of  the  scenery  of  Yo 
Semite,  that  afterwards  induced  many  thousands  to  visit  it:  And 
who,  I trust,  were  never  sorry  for  so  doing. 

TAKING  AN  UNFAIR  ADVANTAGE. 

Notwithstanding  these  opposing  forces  from  without,  a 
majority  of  the  United  States  Senate  Committee  of  Public  Lands 
expressed  themselves  to  the  writer  as  holding  the  above-mentioned 
views  of  the  case,  and  for  favorably  reporting  the  Bill ; yet,  in 
the  absence  of  some  friends  of  the  measure,  when  its  consideration 
was  entertained  in  that  committee,  a majority  of  one  was  secured 
against  it,  just  as  that  session  of  Congress  was  closing;  when  it 
was  assigned  to  the  unfinished  business  of  the  Senate — and  con- 
sequently again  to  defeat. 


160 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


RULINGS  OF  THE  SUPREME  COURTS. 

Meanwhile,  the  Board  of  Commissioners  appealed  from  the 
decision  of  the  District  Court,  to  the  State  Supreme  Court,  where, 
under  the  ruling  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States,  in 
the  Suscol  Ranch  Case,  wdiile  admitting  in  its  decision  that  I was 
a bona,  fide  settler  upon  the  land  before  it  was  donated  to  the 
State,  had  lived  upon  it  ever  since  with  my  family,  and  was 
ready  at  any  time  to  prove  up  my  preemption  claim,  and  to  pay 
the  purchase  money,  whenever  the  land  could  have  been  surveyed, 
Ruled : — 

“ If  a qualified  preemptioner  enter  upon  a portion  of  the  public 
domain,  with  the  intention  to  preempt  the  same,  and  performs  all  the 
acts  necessary  to  perfect  his  preemptive  right,  except  the  payment  of  the 
purchase  price,  the  Government  may,  nevertheless,  at  any  time  before  the 
price  is  actually  paid,  or  tendered,  devote  the  land  to  another  purpose, 
and  thereby  wholly  defeat  the  right  of  preemption.” — California  Reports , 
July,  1871,  Vol.  JJ,  pp.  658- 9. 

Although  this  judgment  was  appealed,  from  the  State  Su- 
preme Court  to  that  of  the  United  States,  it  was  afterwards 
affirmed  by  that  body,  as  their  action  could  not  be  made  retro- 
active from  their  decision  in  the  Suscol  Ranch  Case. 

POSSIBLY  AN  ARROGANT  ASSUMPTION. 

It  may  seemingly  appear  an  act  of  supererogation,  if  not  of 
arrogant  assumption,  on  the  part  of  any  one,  especially  of  lawyers 
who  are  eminent  in  their  profession,  to  interpret  the  decision  of 
the  Supreme  Court  in  the  Suscol  R,anch  and  Yo  Semite  cases — 
although  not  analogous  in  their  equities — as  traversing  the  well- 
understood  and  beneficent  provisions  of  the  Preemption  Laws,  and 
subverting  the  covenantal  principles  of  a general  law  to  subserve 
a specific  purpose,  and  one  that  could  have  been  better  provided 
for  some  other  way.  There  is  evidently  a broad  foundation 
for  questioning  the  soundness  of  this  ruling,  as  the  settler  has 
an  abundant  surplus  of  difficulties  to  overcome,  without  their 
unnecessary  increase,  involving  the  title  to  his  land.  The  “ unpar- 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


161 


donable  sin  ” assumed  to  have  been  committed  by  the  settlers  at 
Yo  Semite  was  twofold — one,  in  choosing  so  wildly  picturesque  a 
portion  of  the  public  domain  whereon  to  form  a home;  and  the 
other  to  stand  up  manfully  in  its  defense,  after  some  one  else 
wanted  it.  Herein  lay  the  extent  of  their  sinning,  and  the  hein- 
ousness of  their  offenses.  Had  their  choice  fallen  upon  some 
shelterless  desert,  no  envious  motive  would  have  prompted  a wish 
for  claiming  it,  or  for  their  dispossession. 

After  the  legal  status  of  the  question  had  been  determined  by 
the  courts,  and  Congressional  action  circumstantially  deferred, 
the  writer  received  numerous  letters  from  representative  Cali- 
fornians, asking  him  to  forego  any  further  efforts  before  Congress, 
until  the  will  and  wTishes  of  the  Californian  public  could  be  con- 
sulted in  the  matter.  This  was  acceded  to.  And  when  the 
Legislature  of  1874  assembled,  an  appropriation  was  made  of 
$60,000  for  the  purpose  of  compensating  the  Yo  Semite  settlers  for 
any  financial  loss  they  might  sustain,  by  surrendering  all  their 
right  and  title  to  the  State.  For  the  purpose  of  carrying  out  the 
provisions  of  this  enactment,  three  special  commissioners  were 
appointed  by  the  Executive  of  the  State,  Gov.  Newton  Booth, 
who  repaired  to  Yo  Semite  to  ascertain  the  relative  proportion  of 
the  sum  appropriated  that  should  be  paid  to  each. 

It  should  here  be  explained  that  in  addition  to  the  two  actual 
settlers,  there  were  two  others  that  claimed  indemnity  for  improve- 
ments; and,  in  order  to  avoid  any  future  controversies  upon  this 
subject,  it  was  resolved  that  these  claims  should  also  be  considered, 
and  disposed  of  at  this  juncture.  In  order  to  arrive  at  a just 
estimate  of  the  relative  expenditures  of  each  claimant,  an  expert 
was  employed,  who  reported  as  follows: — 

Improvements  made  by  J.  M.  Hutchings,  $41,000;  James 
C.  Lamon,  $11,000;  A.  G.  Black,  $8,350;  Ira  G.  Folsom,  $4,000. 
Notwithstanding  this  showing  by  the  expert,  the  following 
awards  were  made  by  a majority  of  the  special  commission: — 

J.  M.  Hutchings,  $24,000;  Jas.  C.  Lamon,  $12,000;  A.  G. 
Black,  $22,000.  Mr.  Black  was  to  pay  Ira  B.  Folsom  out  of  his 


162 


m THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


award;  but  as  Mr.  Black  and  Mr.  Folsom  could  not  agree  upon 
the  amount  to  be  paid  the  latter,  the  whole  matter  was  brought  up 
before  the  State  Board  of  Examiners,  as  provided  by  the  statutes, 
when  the  expert  was  summoned,  and  the  merits  and  demerits 
of  each  award  that  had  been  made,  relatively  examined  and  dis- 
cussed, and  finally  adjudged  as  follows:  J.  M.  Hutchings,  $24,000; 
Jas.  C.  Lamon,  $12,000;  A.  G.  Black,  $13,000;  Ira  B.  Folsom, 
$6,000— total,  $55,000.  The  balance  of  the  $60,000  appropri- 
ated was  returned  to  the  State  Treasury.  When  the  sums 
awarded  had  been  accepted,  and  paid  to  the  parties  in  interest,  a 
quit  claim  deed  was  given  by  each,  of  all  claims  to  either  land  or 
improvements,  to  the  State.  Thus  ended  the  unequal  contest,  of 
many  years,  between  the  old  Board  of  Yo  Semite  Commissioners 
and  the  Yo  Semite  settlers.  Comment  would  be  superfluous,  as 
facts  not  only  tell  their  own  story,  but  suggest  their  own  infer- 
ences. 

Before  closing  this  unvarnished  recital,  however,  I wish  to 
give  especial  prominence  to  the  magnanimous  action  of  the  State 
in  favor  of  the  settlers;  first,  in  declining  to  take  the  least  ad- 
vantage of  the  adjudgment  of  the  higher  courts  against  them; 
and,  second,  in  its  recognition  of  the  equities  of  their  claim,  by 
procuring  for  them  a becomingly  liberal  appropriation,  as  com- 
pensation therefor;  thus  proving  that  the  State  requires  no  injus- 
tice or  wrong  to  be  committed  in  her  name  or  visited  upon  any  of 
her  citizens  however  plausible  may  be  the  excuse  for  attempting  it. 

Since  the  passage  of  the  Acts  introduced  at  the  commence- 
ment of  this  chapter  the  following  Governors  have  been  ex  officio 
Presidents  of  the  Board  of  Commissioners:  F.  F.  Low,  H.  H. 
Haight,  Newton  Booth,  Bomualdo  Pacheco,  William  G.  Irwin, 
George  O.  Perkins,  and  George  Stoneman. 

The  following  gentlemen  constitute  the  present  Board  of  Yo 
Semite  Commissioners:  His  Excellency  Geo.  Stoneman,  President; 
I.  W.  Raymond,  Vice-President;  Wm.  B.  May,  Secretary  and 
Treasurer;  Wm.  H.  Mills,  J.  H.  O’Brien,  Thos.  P.  Madden,  Jona- 
than Mentzer,  E.  W.  Chapman,  and  J.  M.  Griffith. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


REMARKS  IN  OUTLINE  ABOUT  THE  JOURNEY  AND  ROUTES 

TO  YO  SEMITE. 


If  thou  art  worn  and  hard  beset 
With  sorrows,  that  thou  would’st  forget; 

If  thou  would’st  read  a lesson  that  will  keep 
Thy  heart  from  fainting,  and  thy  soul  from  sleep — 

Go  to  the  woods  and  hills. 

— Longfellow. 


The  traveled  mind  is  the  catholic  mind  educated  from  exclusiveness  and 
egotism. 

— Alcott’s  Table  Talk. 

Travel  makes  all  men  country  men,  makes  people  noblemen  and  kings,  every 
man  tasting  of  liberty  and  dominion. 

—Alcott’s  Concord  Days. 

The  reader  knows  as  well  as  I do  that  it  is  of  little  conse- 
quence, in  point  of  fact,  whether  a spirit  of  romance,  the  love  of 
the  grand  and  beautiful  in  scenery,  the  suggestions  or  promptings 
of  a fascinating  woman — be  she  friend,  sweetheart,  or  wife — the 
desire  for  change,  the  want  of  recreation,  or  the  necessity  for  a 
restoration  and  recuperation  of  an  overtasked  physical  or  mental 
organization,  or  both — whatever  may  be  the  instrumentality  that 
first  gives  birth  to  the  wish  for,  or  the  love  of.  travel;  when  the 
mind  is  thoroughly  made  up,  and  the  committee  of  ways  and 
means  reports  itself  financially  prepared  to  undertake  the  pleas- 
urable task- — in  order  to  enjoy  it  with  luxurious  zest,  wre  must 
resolve  upon  four  things:  first,  to  leave  the  “peck  of  troubles,” 
and  a few  thrown  in,  entirely  behind  us;  second,  to  have  none 
but  good,  suitable,  and  genial-hearted  companions ; third,  a suffi- 
cient supply  of  personal  patience,  good  humor,  forbearance,  and 
creature  comforts  for  all  emergencies;  and,  fourth,  when  it  is 
possible,  not  to  be  in  a hurry.  To  these  both  one  and  all,  who 

(163) 


164 


EY  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


have  ever  visited  the  Yo  Semite  Valley  and  the  Big  Trees,  I know 
will  say — Amen. 

According  to  the  unimpeached  testimony  of  nearly  every 
traveler,  there  is  not  a country  on  earth,  known  to  civilization, 
that  possesses  more  of  the  beautiful  and  wildly  picturesque  than 
California.  Her  towering  and  pine-covered  mountains ; her  wide- 
spread valleys,  carpeted  with  flowers;  her  leaping  water-falls;  her 
foaming  cataracts;  her  rushing  rivers;  her  placid  lakes;  her 
ever  green  and  densely  timbered  forests;  her  gently  rolling  hills, 
covered  with  blooming  shrubs  and  trees,  and  wild  flowers,  give  a 
voiceless  invitation  to  the  traveler  to  look  upon  her  and  admire. 

The  difficulties  that  generally  beset  the  stranger  are  to  learn 
how  those  that  are  the  most  noteworthy  can  be  seen  to  the  best 
advantage.  This  shall  be  the  exclusive  aim  and  object  of  this 
work.  And  at  the  outset  I wish  it  to  be  distinctly  understood 
that  all  route  rivalry,  or  expressed  preference,  will  be  utterly 
ignored,  my  object  being  to  present  the  most  salient  and  attractive 
features  of  each  ancf  all  routes,  and  leave  it  to  the  intelligent 
visitor  to  select  for  himself  the  one  best  calculated  to  give  him 
the  largest  return  of  pleasure.  Then,  as  tastes  vary  in  different 
individuals,  that  which  would  be  most  enjoyable  to  one  might 
prove  altogether  the  reverse  in  another.  It  is  true  there  may 
arise  reasons,  occasionally,  in  the  interests  of  the  traveling  public, 
why  suggestions,  born  of  experience,  should  be  freely  offered,  even 
though  they  should  conflict  somewhat  with  the  interests  and  plans 
of  private  individuals,  or  companies;  and,  however  this  might  be 
regretted,  they  will  be  fearlessly  presented,  and  the  results  allowed 
to  take  care  of  themselves. 

As  many  lovers  of  the  sublime  and  beautiful  will  doubtlessly 
desire  to  visit  the  remarkable  scenes  that  await  their  appreciative 
admiration  in  the  High  Sierra,  and  as  I cannot  in  this  brief  out- 
line present  all  the  various  routes  thereto  from  every  village, 
town,  and  city  in  the  State — for  they  are  almost  as  numerous  as 
the  different  roads  that  Christians  seem  to  take  to  their  expected 
heaven,  and  the  multitudinous  creeds  about  the  way  and  manner 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


165 


of  getting  there — I shall  content  myself  with  giving  the  principal 
ones,  and  after  reciting  the  following  quaint  and  unanswerable 
argument  of  a celebrated  divine,  to  the  querulous  and  unchari- 
tably disposed  members  of  his  flock,  proceed  at  once  to  delineate 
their  principal  characteristics: — 

“ There  was  a Christian  brother — a Presbyterian — who 
walked  up  to  the  gate  of  the  New  Jerusalem,  and  knocked  for 
admittance,  when  an  angel  who  was  in  charge,  looked  down  from 
above  and  inquired  what  he  wanted.  ‘To  come  in,’  w;as  the 
answer.  ‘ Who  and  what  are  you V ‘A  Presbyterian. ’ ‘ Sit  on 

that  seat  there.  ’ This  was  on  the  outside  of  the  gate ; and  the 
good  man  feared  that  he  had  been  refused  admittance.  Pres- 
ently  arrived  an  Episcopalian,  then  a Baptist,  then  a Methodist, 
and  so  on,  until  a representative  of  every  Christian  sect  had  made 
his  appearance;  and  each  alike  ordered  to  take  a seat  outside. 
Before  they  had  long  been  there,”  continued  the  good  man,  “a 
loud  and  familiar  anthem  broke  forth,  rolling  and  swelling  upon 
the  air  from  the  choir  within;  when  those  outside  immediately 
joined  in  the  chorus.  ‘ Oh ! ’ said  the  angel  as  he  opened  wide  the 
gate,  ‘ I did  not  know  yon  by  your  names,  but  you  have  all 
learned  one  song — come  in ! come  in ! The  name  you  bear,  or  the 
way  by  which  you  came,  is  of  little  consequence  compared  with 
your  being  here  at  all.’  As  you,  my  brethren,”  the  godly  man 
went  on — “ as  you  expect  to  live  peaceably  and  lovingly  together 
in  heaven,  you  had  better  begin  to  practice  it  on  earth.  I have 
done.”  As  this  allegorical  advice  needs  no  words  of  application 
either  to  the  traveler  or  to  the  Christian,  in  the  hope  that  the 
latter  will  take  the  admonition  of  Captain  Cuttle,  ‘ ‘ and  make 
a note  on’t,”  and  an  apology  to  the  reader  for  this  digression,  I 
will  at  once  enter  upon  my  pleasing  task. 

THE  SEVEN  ROUTES  TO  THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY, 

All  of  which  can  now  be  traveled  by  rail  and  coach  to  the  doors  of 
each  hotel  there,  spring  principally  from  one  main  or  trunk 
route,  like  branches  from  a young  tree.  This  is  the  Central 


166 


IN'  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


Pacific  Railroad  from  San  Francisco  to  Lathrop.  It  is  true,  how- 
ever, that  two  of  the  seven  routes  mentioned,  being  from  Stockton, 
can  be  reached  by  steamboat.  The  seven  branches,  each  of 
which  is  to  be  hereafter  briefly  described — and  they  will  be  given 
in  the  order  determined  by  allotment,  to  avoid  even  the  semblance 
of  favoritism — are  as  follows : — 

First:  The  “ Milton  and  Calaveras  Big  Tree  Route.”  This 
is  from  Lathrop  to  Stockton,  by  rail  (or  from  San  Francisco  by 
steamboat),  thence  to  Milton,  by  rail;*  thence  via  Murphys, 
Calaveras  Big  Tree  Groves,  Sonora,  and  Chinese  Camp  to  Val- 
ley, by  coach. 

Second:  The  “ Berenda  Route  via  Grant’s  Sulphur  Springs.” 
From  Lathrop  to  Berenda  (S.  P.  R.  R.),  thence  to  Raymond 
by  rail ; thence  to  Gambetta  Gold  Mines,  Grant’s  Sulphur  Springs, 
Wawona,  and  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Groves,  to  Valley,  by  coach. 

Third:  The  “Madera  Route  via  Fresno  Flats.”  From 
Madera  (S.  P.  R.  R.)  via  Fresno  Flats,  Fish  Springs,  Wawona, 
and  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Groves,  to  Valley,  by  coach. 

Fourth:  The  “ Coulterville  Route  via  Modesto.”  From 
Lathrop  to  Modesto  (S.  P.  R.  R.),  by  rail;  thence  via  La  Grange, 
Coulterville,  Dudley’s,  Bower  Cave,  and  Merced  Grove  of  Big 
Trees,  to  Valley,  by  coach. 

Fifth:  The  “ Coulterville  Route,  via  Merced.”  From  Lathrop 
to  Merced  (S.  P.  R.  R.),  by  rail;  thence  via  Snellings,  Merced 
Falls,  Coulterville,  and  Merced  Grove  of  Big  Trees,  to  Valley,  by 
coach. 

Sixth : The  “Mariposa  Route.”  From  Lathrop  to  Merced 
(S.  P.  R.  R.),  by  rail;  thence  via  Hornitos,  Princeton,  Mariposa, 
Wawona,  and  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Groves,  to  Valley,  by  coach. 

Seventh:  The  “Milton  and  Big  Oak  Flat  Route.”  From 
Lathrop  to  Stockton  (C.  P.  R.  R.),  by  rail,  or  by  steamboat; 
thence  to  Milton  (S.  & C.  R.  R.),  by  rail;  thence  via  Copperopo- 

* There  is  also  a narrow-gauge  railroad  in  course  of  construction  from  Brack’s 
Landing  on  the  Mokelumne  River,  to  the  Calaveras  Grove — already  completed 
to  Valley  Springs,  and  running  from  Lodi  on  the  C.  P.  R.  R.  to  that  point. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


167 


lis,  Chinese  Camp,  Moffit’s  Bridge,  Priests,  Big  Oak  Flat,  Crockers, 
and  Tuolumne  Grove  of  Big  Trees,  to  Valley,  by  coach. 

Each  of  these  will  be  briefly  outlined,  and  the  different  points 
of  interest  noted,  in  separate  chapters,  accompanied  by  a map 
that  will  indicate  the  diverging  and  connecting  lines  of  each 
particular  route — which,  please  consult — so  as  to  enable  visitors 
to  travel  understanding^,  and,  it  is  hoped,  enjoyably,  by  what- 
soever route  they  may  elect  to  take.  But,  to  make  a journey 
thoroughly  pleasurable,  and  its  close  a delightful  memory,  a limited 
amount  of  business  caution  should  precede  the  start,  and  more  or 
less  accompany  the  traveler  to  the  end. 

Of  course  I will,  if  you  please,  assume  that  the  object  of  the 
trip  is  at  least  twofold, — intellectual  and  physical  gratification, 
and  the  gathering  of  impressions  and  facts  that  may  be  of  use 
hereafter.  With  a desire  to  subserve  such  laudable  purposes, 
permit  me  to  make  a few  preliminary  suggestions,  tending  some- 
what to  insure  these  results: — 

First : Go  in  by  one  route,  and  out  by  another — remember- 
ing that  all  routes  are  picturesque  and  interesting  while  being 
equally  safe.  Should  any  one  advise  you  to  the  contrary,  you 
may  be  sure  that  he  has  some  unworthy  business  uax  to  grind;  ” 
therefore,  heed  him  not. 

Second:  Having  thoroughly  made  up  your  mind  about  the 
route  that  you  prefer,  see  that  your  ticket,  upon  its  face,  exactly 
represents  your  wishes.  Oral  explanations  are  not  always  con- 
veniently at  hand,  when  they  are  perhaps  most  needed;  and 
memory  sometimes  may  be  at  fault,  but  written  or  printed  testi- 
mony is  always  to  the  point,  if  presentable. 

Third : Never  be  induced  to  leave  a trunk,  or  a hat-box,  or 
valise,  or  fish-rod,  or  rifle,  or  anything  else,  in  any  way  calculated 
to  compel  you  to  return  by  that  or  any  other  route,  contrary  to 
your  well-considered  plans  and  intentions. 

If,  after  what  you  read  below,  you  have  been  induced  to 
take  something  you  do  not  need,  either  carry  it  along  with  you,  or 
leave  it  at,  or  conveniently  near,  some  junction  of  the  two  roads. 


168 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


PERSONAL  BAGGAGE  TO  BE  TAKEN. 

This,  you  will  allow,  is  a difficult  matter  for  me  to  determine, 
and  one  that  will  require  your  generous  forbearance  and  assist- 
ance. These  questions  settled,  I will  suppose  that  your  good  sense 
(no  flattery  is  intended)  will  suggest  at  the  start  that  all  Saratoga 
trunks  should  be  eschewed,  even  if  their  dimensions  do  not  exceed 
those  of  an  ordinary  cottage  or  two.  If  you  have  one  of  moder- 
ate pretensions,  be  sure  and  carefully  examine  its  contents  with 
the  view  of  laying  aside  everything  that  you  know  will  not  be 
wanted.  Next,  turn  over  your  effects  again,  and  reject  every- 
thing you  feel  that  you  could  conscientiously  do  without. 

Now,  if  health  and  comfort  are  studied,  gentlemen  will  see 
that  they  have  one  extra  of  each  of  the  following  articles:  One 
pair  of  good  serviceable  boots  (not  necessarily  very  heavy)  that 
have  been  broken  to  the  feet ; one  complete  outfit  of  underclothing ; 
one  woolen  overshirt;  three  or  four  pairs  of  hose  (woolen  should 
be  preferred) ; one  suit  of  strong  clothes  (old  ones,  if  not  too  easily 
torn,  would  be  the  best,  as  they  will  be  good  for  nothing  after 
your  return) ; pocket-handkerchiefs,  and  a few  other  necessary 
articles;  remembering  that  there  are  laundries  in  the  Valley. 
Ladies  would  do  well  by  taking  some  of  the  hints  thrown  out  to 
gentlemen — in  providing  themselves  with  woolen  dresses  of  suita- 
ble length,  color,  and  texture,  made  in  the  Bloomer  or  other  similar 
style,  as  such  would  be  found  to  possess  both  comfort  and  adapta- 
bility;  durable  linen  riding  habit;  boots  that  were  made  for  wear 
more  than  for  ornament ; a warm  shawl ; and  by  making  choice 
of  such  other  articles  as  will  best  meet  their  wants,  wishes,  and 
tastes,  without  further  enumeration  from  me.  These  should  all 
be  packed  in  as  small  a valise  as  possible;  or,  if  an  extended  trip 
into  the  mountains  is  intended,  in  a pair  of  saddle-bags. 

At  best  it  will  be  difficult  to  give  advice  that  will  accord 
with  every  variety  of  condition  and  of  circumstance.  By  way 
of  illustration,  we  may  mention  that  an  estimable  and  intelligent 
lady  correspondent  of  a San  Francisco  paper  visited  Yo  Semite 
early  in  May;  and,  finding  the  weather  cool,  advised  every 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


169 


lady  to  go  there  warmly  clad.  Other  ladies,  later  in  the  season, 
taking  that  advice,  and  finding  the  climate  pleasantly  warm, 

remarked,  “ How  could  Mrs.  H recommend  ns  to  come  in 

such  warm  clothing?  when  we  return  we  will  tell  all  our  lady 
friends  to  choose  none  but  light  summer  dresses!” 

Always  look  out  for  your  baggage,  and  see  that  every  piece 
is  surely  placed  upon  the  conveyance  you  are  about  to  take  before 
leaving  the  hotel  door.  Careful  attention  to  the  above  sugges- 
tions will,  believe  me,  preserve  you  from  many  detracting  an- 
noyances in  the  future  of  your  journey. 

A WORD  TO  PARTIES  CAMPING. 

Supposing  that  you  have  wisely  chosen  your  companions, 
of  both  sexes,  from  those  you  know  possess  kindred  tastes  and 
dispositions,  each  of  whom  expects  to  assume,  cheerfully,  his  or 
her  full  share  of  all  the  duties  appertaining  to  camp-life — whether 
in  song,  a good  story,  recitation,  or  in  the  somewhat  exacting 
attentions  of  the  cuisene — you  will  then  be  in  a position  to 
consider  how  the  enjoyments  of  the  trip  can  be  best  subserved. 
Here  permit  me  to  make  a few  suggestions  which  originated 
in  the  laboratory  of  experience: — 

ABOUT  YOUR  OUTFIT. 

Let  it  consist,  mainly,  as  follows:  A light  yet  strong  coach, 
sufficiently  capacious  to  accommodate  your  party  comfortably,  es- 
pecially if  the  weather  is,  like  Bob  Sawyer’s  apple  (see  Pickwick 
Papers),  unpleasantly  warm ; horses  that  are  known  to  be,  not  only 
true  to  the  harness,  but  of  about  the  same  size  and  weight,  and 
equal  to  every  reasonable  emergency  of  both  load  and  road ; bearing 
in  mind  that  there  are  not  less  than  from  five  to  six  thousand  feet 
of  altitude  to  be  overcome,  between  the  plains  and  Yo  Semite,  or 
Big  Trees,  the  grade  being  heavy  in  some  places.  Do  not  overload 
with  stores,  for  two  reasons:  First,  it  saps  away  the  strength  and 
spirit  of  your  horses  (to  say  nothing  of  your  own),  and  conse- 
quently retards  both  speed  and  progress.  Second,  because  every 
kind  of  article,  almost,  from  a needle  to  a saw-horse,  can  be 


170 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


obtained  upon  arrival,  and  generally  at  fairly  reasonable  prices, 
considering  their  distance  from  the  market.  Still,  enough  should 
be  taken  for  the  necessities  of  the  road.  Provide  a flattish  sheet- 
iron,  bottomless,  cook-stove,  of  reasonably  heavy  iron,  having  two 
or  four  holes  on  top,  and  one  length  of  stove-pipe,  snugly  fitted  to 
the  stove ; a nest  of  camp-kettles  (four  or  five)  that  fit  into  each 
other;  baking,  bread,  and  dish  pans  (one  of  the  matrons  of  the 
party  should  select  all  such  articles);  frying-pan,  bake-oven, 
coffee  and  teapots,  granite-ware  plates  and  cups;  tea  and  table- 
spoons, and  one  large  batter  spoon;  knives  and  forks,  including  a 
couple  of  good  butcher  knives ; salt,  pepper,  sugar,  tea  and  coffee 
bags,  with  extra  ones  for  times  of  need.  Then  to  these  do  not 
forget  to  add  a whetstone,  towels,  soap,  brooms,  needles  and 
thread,  scissors,  buttons,  matches  and  candles,  writing-paper,  pens, 
ink,  envelopes,  postage  stamps,  etc.  Then  to  these  add  three 
pairs  of  blankets  for  each  couple,  and  as  many  for  each  one  who 
prefers  to  sleep  alone. 

TENTS  AND  THEIR  ARRANGEMENTS. 

Suitable  tents  should  always  be  provided  for  the  ladies,  and 
one  long  tent  for  general  use,  open  at  the  front  for  its  entire 
length,  and  consisting  of  one  sheet  of  strong  drilling,  say  three 
yards  in  width  by  five  in  length,  with  ends,  resembling  those  of 
an  old-fashioned  Dutch-oven,  as  illustrated  below.  This,  with  the 
lower  back  edge  fastened  to  the  ground  (suitable  holes  having  been 


Photo  by  Geo.  Fiske 


Photo-typo  by  Britton  & Rey,  S.  f 

Peak,  3,318  Feet  above  the  Valley. 

From  Upper  Iron  Bridge,  near  Barnard’s 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


171 


worked  into  the  sheet  for  picket-pins)  is  supported  in  front  by  a 
light  pole-post,  set  under  it  at  each  front  corner;  over ‘which  a 
small  cord  (running  the  whole  length  of,  and  well  sewed  to,  the 
sheet)  is  drawn  tight,  and  fastened  to  a pin  driven  in  the  ground, 
in  advance  of  the  front  line  of  the  tent,  by  which  the  whole  is 
made  secure.  A similar  sheet,  to  form  a kind  of  carpet,  should  be 
spread  upon  the  ground,  or  over  the  improvised  bedding  of  leaves, 
hay,  pine  needles,  etc.,  to  keep  the  blankets  clean.  These  sheets, 
when  carefully  shaken,  and  folded  once,  make  an  excellent  wrap 
for  the  blankets,  sheets,  pillows,  and  other  articles  requiring  to  be 
kept  clean,  especially  if  well  tied  up,  to  keep  out  the  dust. 

Contrivances  like  these  add  largely  to  the  comfort  of  a party, 
by  providing  a place  of  shelter  for  themselves,  and  outfit,  in  all 
weathers,  as  well  as  a compartment  for  general  rendezvous,  and 
for  social  pleasures  at  all  times.  (Eleven  of  us — six  ladies  and 
five  gentlemen — enjoyably  occupied  one  of  these  in  our  mountain 
wanderings,  for  over  three  months.)  In  the  Sierra  Nevadas 
the  summer  winds  generally  blow  from  the  east  at  night,  and  the 
open  tent  should  be  so  pitched  as  to  have  the  back  of  it  towards 
that  quarter;  then  the  wind  not  only  sweeps  over  it,  but  carries 
away  all  the  camp-fire  smoke,  instead  of  driving  it  into  the  tent. 
For  rainy  weather  in  California  it  should  be  pitched  towards  the 
south,  and  the  front  open  to  the  north.  If  the  purposes  of  sight- 
seeing, or  an  outlook  towards  the  horses,  or  wagon,  can  be  sub- 
served by  changing  its  direction  a little,  that  can  be  done  without 
interfering  with  any  of  its  protective  provisions.  Be  sure  and 
select  a dry  place,  as  convenient  as  possible  to  wood  and  water, 
for  your  camp-ground.  Now,  although  fine  weather  Is  the  rule 
among  the  mountains  of  California,  during  summer,  it  should  be 
borne  in  mind  that  nearly  every  rule  has  its  exceptions,  and  this 
is  one;  therefore,  it  behooves  every  camping-party  to  be  prepared 
for  storms,  should  they  come.  Timely  provision  should  accord- 
ingly be  made  for  these,  in  order  to  avoid  discomfort,  and,  possibly, 
severe  colds.  The  old  saying  that  “one  ounce  of  prevention  is 
better  than  pounds  of  antidotes,”  will,  believe  me,  be  found  serv- 
iceable here,  as  elsewhere. 

12 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


THE  MAIN  OR  TRUNK  ROUTE  TOWARDS  YO  SEMITE,  SAN 
FRANCISCO  TO  LATHROP. 

Speed  the  soft  intercourse  from  soul  to  soul, 

And  waft  a sigh  from  Indus  to  the  pole. 

— Pope’s  Eloise  to  Abelard. 

Traveling  is  no  fool’s  errand  to  him  who  carries  his  eyes  and  itinerary  with 

him. 

— Alcott’s  Table  Talk, 

Know  most  of  the  rooms  of  thy  native  country  before  thou  goest  over  the 
threshold  thereof. 

— Fuller. 

There  are  probably  but  few,  if  any,  more  exciting  scenes  in 
any  part  of  the  world  than  are  to  be  witnessed  on  almost  any 
day,  Sunday  excepted,  at  the  Market  Street  Wharf,  San  Fran- 
cisco, upon  the  departure  of  the  various  trains  for  the  interior,  or 
overland.  Men  and  women  are  hurrying  to  and  fro;  drays, 
carriages,  express  wagons,  and  horsemen  dash  past  you  with  as 
much  haste  and  vehemence  as  though  they  were  carrying  a 
reprieve  to  some  poor  condemned  criminal,  the  last  moments  of 
whose  life  were  fast  ebbing  away,  and  by  the  speedy  delivery  of 
that  reprieve,  they  expected  to  save  him  from  the  scaffold.  Indeed, 
one  would  suppose,  by  the  apparently  reckless  manner  in  riding 
and  driving  through  the  crowd,  that  numerous  limbs,  if  not  necks, 
would  be  broken,  and  vehicles  made  into  mince-meat!  Yet,  to 
your  surprise,  nothing  of  the  kind  occurs;  for,  upon  arriving  at 
the  smallest  obstruction,  animals  are  reined  in  with  a promptness 
that  astonishes. 

Interesting  as  this  may  be  to  you  as  a spectator,  it  should 
not  be  allowed  to  divert  your  attention  sufficiently  to  prevent  the 
timely  checking  of  your  trunk,  or  valise,  to  the  very  railway 

172 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


173 


terminus  you  are  to  leave  by  stage,  or  to  cause  your  being  the 
proverbial  “last  man,”  as  he  sometimes  arrives  too  late.  Presum- 
ing that  all  such  matters  have  received  becoming  consideration ; 
that  your  ticket,  upon  its  face,  provides  for  all  emergencies  of 
travel  upon  the  route  you  have  chosen;  and,  moreover,  that  you 
are  safely  aboard  the  ferry-boat  that  is  speeding  you  towards 
the  wonderful  Valley  and  the  Big  Tree  Groves;  as  you  may  be 
a stranger  here,  and  somewhat  unfamiliar  with  the  scenes  that 
will  open  before  you,  I will,  in  imagination  at  least,  with  your 
kind  permission,  be  your  traveling  companion  on  this  excursion, 
and  explain  such  matters  as  most  naturally  will  claim  our 
attention. 

As  it  is  generally  cool  in  summer,  when  crossing  the  Bay  of 
San  F rancisco,  please  put  on  your  overcoat,  and  let  us  take  a cozy 
seat  together  on  the  north  side  the  boat;  and  while  the  black 
smoke  is  rolling  in  volumes  from  the  funnels  of  numerous  steam- 
ers, and  we  are  shooting  out  from  the  wharf,  past  this  or  that 
vessel  now  lying  at  anchor,  or  furling  its  sails  from  a voyage  or 
spreading  them  for  one;  while  numerous  nervous  people  are 
troubling  about  their  baggage,  and  asking  the  porter  all  sorts  of 
questions,  let  us  have  a quiet  chat  upon  the  sights  to  be  seen 
around  us.  The  first  object  of  interest,  after  leaving  the  wharf 
and  the  city  behind  us,  is 


ALCATRACES,  OR  PELICAN  ISLAND, 


174 


IN  TEE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


This  is  just  opposite  the  Golden  Gate,  and  about  half  way 
between  the  city  and  Angel  Island.  It  commands  the  great  land- 
locked Bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  is  but  three  and  a half  miles 
from  F ort  Point,  on  the  southern  side  of  the  Golden  Gate.  This 
island  (now  generally  called  “ Alcatraz  ”)  is  one  hundred  and  forty 
feet  in  height  above  low  water  mark,  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
_ in  width,  and  sixteen  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length;  somewhat 
irregular  in  outline,  and  fortified  on  all  sides.  The  large  building* 
on  its  summit  is  a defensive  barrack,  or  citadel,  three  stories  high, 
which  in  time  of  peace  will,  with  other  quarters,  accommodate  about 
two  hundred  men ; and  in  war  about  three  times  that  number. 
It  is  not  only  a shelter  for  the  soldiers,  capable  of  withstanding  a 
respectable  cannonade,  but  from  its  top  a murderous  fire  could  be 
opened  upon  its  assailants  at  all  parts  of  the  island.  There  is, 
moreover,  a belt  of  fortifications  encircling  the  island,  mounting* 
guns  of  the  heaviest  caliber,  and  of  the  latest  improved  patterns. 

Besides  these  there  are  stone  guard-houses,  shot  and  shell 
proof,  protected  by  heavy  gates  and  draw-bridges,  and  having* 
embrasures  for  rifled  cannon  that  command  the  approaches  in 
every  direction.  Their  tops,  like  the  barrack,  are  flat,  for  the 
use  of  riflemen.  In  addition  to  these  there  are  several  bomb- 
proof magazines,  and  a large  furnace  for  heating  cannon  balls. 

Unfortunately,  no  natural  supply  of  water  has  yet  been  dis- 
covered on  the  island,  so  that  all  of  this  element  has  to  be  carried 
there  in  tanks,  and  stored  in  a large  cistern  at  the  basement  of 
the  barracks.  For  washing  purposes  a sufficient  quantity  is 
obtained  from  the  roofs  of  the  principal  buildings.  At  the  south- 
eastern end  of  the  island  is  a fog-bell,  of  about  the  same  size  and 
weight  as  that  at  Fort  Point,  which  is  regulated  to  strike  by 
machinery  every  quarter  of  a minute.  There  is  also  a light-house 
at  the  south  of  the  barracks,  with  newly  improved  lenses,  the 
glare  from  which  can  be  distinctly  seen,  on  a clear  night,  some 
twelve  miles  outside  the  Heads,  and  is  of  essential  service  in 
directing  the  course  of  vessels  when  entering  the  Bay.  Northerly 
from  Alcatraces,  about  two  and  a half  miles  distant,  and  five 
from  San  Francisco,  is 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


175 


ANGEL  ISLAND. 

This  contains  some  eight  hundred  acres  of  excellent  land,  and 
is  by  far  the  largest  and  most  valuable  of  any  in  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco.  The  wild  oats  and  grasses  that  grow  to  its  very  sum- 
mit, in  early  spring,  give  pasturage  to  stock  of  all  kinds  needed 
here;  while  several  natural  springs,  at  different  points,  supply 
good  water  in  abundance,  and  at  all  seasons.  A large  portion  of 
the  island  is  susceptible  of  cultivation  for  all  kinds  of  vegetables 
and  cereals.  Beautiful  wild  flowers  grow  in  sequestered  places 
from  one  end  of  it  to  the  other.  Live  oaks  (quercus  agrifolia) 
supply  both  shade  and  firewood.  Belonging,  as  it  does,  to  the 
Government,  it  is  a favorite  place  of  residence  for  army  officers 
stationed  there,  for  whose  accommodation  a small  steamer  plies, 
regularly,  between  this  island  (calling  at  Alcatraces,  Fort  Point, 
and  Point  San  Jose)  and  San  Francisco. 

From  its  almost  inexhaustible  quarries  of  hard  blue  and 
brown  sandstone,  nearly  all  the  material  for  foundations  of  build- 
ings in  San  Francisco  were  taken,  in  early  times.  The  extensive 
fortifications  at  Alcatraces  Island,  Fort  Point,  and  other  places, 
have  been  faced  with  it,  and  the  extensive  Government  works  at 
Mare  Island  have  been  principally  built  with  stone  from  these 
quarries.  Clay,  also,  in  abundance,  and  of  excellent  quality  for 
bricks,  is  found  here. 

As  Angel  Island  lies  midway  between  Alcatraces  Island  and 
the  main-land  the  guns  from  its  fortifications  completely  sweep 
the  bay,  southerly,  and  Raccoon  Straits,  northwesterly,  afford- 
ing thorough  protection  on  all  sides.  But  for  these  not  only  would 
our  Navy  Yard  at  Mare  Island  be  in  jeopardy,  but  the  city  of  San 
Francisco  itself  would  be  exposed;  inasmuch  as  an  enemy’s  war 
vessel  could  easily  enter  the  harbor  by  Raccoon  Straits,  during  a 
heavy  fog,  that  frequently  in  summer  hangs  over  the  Golden 
Gate,  if  permitted  to  pass  Fort  Point  in  safety. 

MT.  TAMALPAIS 

Is  the  highest  point  in  the  more  immediate  surroundings  of  the 
Bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  is  a prominent  landmark  far  out  at 


176 


IN'  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


sea.  It  stands  northwesterly  from  the  city  of  San  Francisco,  and 
its  top  is  about  fifteen  miles  distant,  “as  the  crow  flies.”  Its 
height  above  sea  level  is  2,610  feet.  A good  road  to  its  summit 
from  San  Rafael  now  enables  every  one  to  view  the  comprehensive 
and  beautiful  landscape  thence,  not  only  with  comfort  but  with 
positive  enjoyment.  We  generally  climbed  it  afoot,  for  exercise. 
The  light-colored  mark  on  its  southern  side  was  caused  by  a 
“ cloud-burst,”  which  literally  tore  out  the  earth  and  rocks  to  the 
depth  of  several  feet,  and  for  over  forty  feet  in  width  by  a hun- 
dred and  fifty  in  length.  This  torrent-cut  material,  sweeping 
with  impetuous  force  down  a ravine,  set  bowlders  free,  tore  out 
trees  by  their  roots,  snapped  others  in  two,  and  made  sad  havoc 
from  top  to  bottom.  This  event  occurred  in  1861.  If  I were  to 
detain  you  here  with  descriptions  of  its  madrone,  laurel,  oak,  and 
other  trees;  its  fragrant  shrubs,  and  numerous  wild  flowers,  there 
is  no  tel  ling:  when  or  wdiere  this  theme  would  end.  But  while  we 
have  been  chatting,  and  watching  th'e  receding  city,  with  its 
seven  hills — like  Rome — all  covered  with  building's;  or  looking 
at  the  English,  French,  or  German,  and  other  ships-of-war  that 
are  now  resting  so  peacefully  at  anchor,  like  sleeping  giants;  or 
admiring  the  daring  of  those  little  steam-tugs  that  shoot  hither 
and  thither,  and  take  hold  of  vessels  many  dozen  times  their  size, 
and  push  them  wherever  they  may  list;  or  interestedly  note  the 
craft  of  all  sizes  flitting  across  the  seething  wake  of  our  boat, 
and  glinting  in  the  f ar-ofF  sunlight ; or  listening  to  the  beating 
paddles  of  numerous  ferry-boats,  starting  in  all  conceivable  direc- 
tions ; or  observing  that  steamer  with  the  stately  sweep  and  build, 
whose  prow  so  proudly  cuts  the  brine,  that  is  just  now  sailing 
for  Panama,  or  Hong  Kong  via  Japan,  or  Australia,  or  for  one 
of  the  many  Pacific  Coast  ports;  while  we  have  been  observing 
these,  and  perhaps  many  other  objects  of  interest,  we  have  come 
abreast  of  a little  green  spot  now  known  as 

GOAT  ISLAND. 

When  occupied  by  Mexicans  it  was  called  “ Yerba  Buena 
Island,”  from  the  generous  supply  of  the  “good  herb”  (Micro 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


177 


meria  Douglasii)  found  on  its  northern  and  sheltered  side.  It  is 
now  in  the  possession  of  the  United  States  Government,  and  used 
mainly  as  a Fog-Horn  Signal  Station — a very  necessary  precau- 
tion in  foggy  weather,  especially  to  the  well-patronized  ferries 
that  ply  between  San  Francisco  and  Oakland,  or  Alameda — and 
for  the  manufacture  and  storage  of  buoys,  many  of  which  can  be 
seen  lying  on  the  landing  there.  Strenuous  efforts  were  made 
several  years  ago  for  the  possession  of  this  island  by  the  Central 
Pacific  Railroad  Company,  as  the  western  terminus  of  their  great 
overland  road,  and  for  the  accommodation  of  vessels  loading  with 
wheat,  wool,  argentiferous  ores,  or  other  California  products  ; but 
the  property  owners  of  San  Francisco  saw  the  mental  mirage  of 
a rival  city  looming  up,  and  successfully  opposed  its  cession. 
Now  the  ship-loading  business,  intended  for  Goat  Island,  is  carried 
on  at  Long  Wharf,  northwesterly  from  the  Oakland  pier,  where 
vessels  from  all  nations  can  be  seen  taking  in  cargo,  for  their 
respective  destinations.  But  the  ring  of  the  bell  responded 
to  impatiently,  apparently,  by  the  passengers  gives  intimation 
that  we  have  crossed  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  are  at 

THE  OAKLAND  PIER. 

The  distance  across,  from  the  Market  Street  Wharf  to  the 
Oakland  Pier,  is  three  miles  and  sixty-three  one  hundredths,  and 
has  taken  us  just  twenty  minutes  to  accomplish  it.  Let  us  pause 
for  a moment,  if  you  please,  and  gaze  at  the  hurrying  stream  of 
human  life,  flowing  out  from  these  commodious  ferry-boats.  If 
you  and  I could  follow  each  and  every  one  to  his  abiding  place, 
enter  into  the  secret  heart-life  of  each  and  know  their  various 
plans  and  hopes,  their  sorrows,  fears,  and  cares,  I think  our 
hearts  would  soften  a little  to  the  many.  But,  as  we  have  to  mix 
with  the  throng,  or  be  left  behind,  we  naturally  cut  short  our 
reveries  and  walk  ashore.  Now  a clear  stentorian  voice  announces : 
“ Passengers  for  Benicia,  Sacramento,  Stockton,  Lathrop,  and 
all  intermediate  points,  please  to  step  this  way,”  and  we  flow  with 
the  outward-bound  tide  of  humanity  into  the  capacious  depot, 


178 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


where  there  seems  to  be  a bewildering  number  of  trains,  for  all 
sorts  of  places;  but  as  the  destination  of  each  is  announced  in 
large  letters,  “ so  that  he  who  runneth  can  read,”  there  is  no  dan- 
ger of  our  selecting  the  wrong  one. 

As  our  course  when  leaving  the  ferry-boat  has  been  to  the 
left,  we  may  have  uninter  tionally  passed 

THE  ELEGANT  WAITING-ROOM, 

Perhaps,  without  noticing  it.  This  would  be  a regretable  omis- 
sion, as  it  is  one  of  the  most  commodious,  as  well  as  most  com- 
fortable waiting-rooms,  to  be  found  in  any  country  or  clime;  for  as 
soon  as  it  is  entered  by  returning  passengers,  its  spaciousness,  and 
cheery  brightness  bespeak  a cordial  welcome  that  always  im- 
presses pleasantly.  Photographs,  paintings,  and  “ live  ” advertise- 
ments make  it  fairly  to  glisten  with  sprightliness.  But  to  our 
journey. 

THE  START  FROM  THE  OAKLAND  PIER. 

With  the  waters  of  the  Bay  on  each  side  of  us,  we  speed 
along  rapidly  over  a solid  road-bed  of  rock,  made  through  the 
shallow  stretches  of  the  Bay,  instead  of  on  piles  and  beams,  as 
formerly,  adding  materially  to  the  safety  of  the  transit  over  it; 
the  outlook  broadening,  and  the  interest  deepening,  as  we  advance. 

There  is  something  very  exhilarating  about  .the  excitements 
of  a journey  through  an  unfamiliar  country,  and  as  soon  as  we 
have  taken  our  seat  in  the  railway  car,  and  object  after  object, 
or  scene  after  scene,  opens  up  -before  us,  we  long  for  some  one  at 
our  elbow,  or  by  our  side,  to  answer  questions.  This  gratification 
is  not  always  attainable.  But,  partly  in  anticipation  of  your 
wishes,  it  may  be  well  to  explain  them  briefly  as  we  roll  com- 
fortably along.  And,  by  way  of  commencement,  when  the  cars 
stop  at  any  particular  station,  as  the  conductor  may  be  busy 
with  his  duties,  and  as  you  may  like  to  know  just  how  far  we 
have  traveled,  the  following  table  will  explain  the  distances 
between  San  Francisco  and  Lathrop. — 


Photo,  bv  S.  C.  Walker.  Photo-typo  by  Britton  & Rey,  8.  F. 

The  Yo  Semite  Fall— Cho-lock— During  High  Water. 


WITH  “REFLECTIONS.” 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


179 


DISTANCES  IN  MILES 


WAY  STATIONS. 

Between 

Consecutive 

Points, 

From 

San  Fran- 
cisco, 

From 

Lathrop, 

By  Railway 
From  San  Francisco  to — 

Oakland  Pier 

3.69 

3.69 

94.34 

90.65 

West  Oakland  . _ 

2.20 

5.89 

88.45 

Sixteenth  Street,  Oakland 

0.60 

6.49 

87.85 

Stock  Yards 

2.26 

8.75 

85.59 

West  Berkeley 

1.67 

10.42 

83.92 

Highland .. 

1.26 

11.68 

82.66 

Point  Isabel _ , 

1.09 

12.77 

81.57 

Stege  _ 

1.15 

13.92 

80.12 

Barrett 

2.20 

16.12 

78.20 

San  Pablo 

1.47 

17.59 

76.75 

Sobrante _ 

3.23 

20.82 

73.52 

Pinole  

3.20 

24.02 

70  32 

Tormey  __  

2.74 

26.76 

67.58 

VALLEJO  JUNCTION 

2.25 

29.01 

65.33 

Valona, 

0,61 

29.62 

64.72 

POET  COSTA 

2.55 

32.17 

62.17 

Martinez,  

3.47 

35.64 

58.70 

Avon  . „ 

3.51 

39.15 

55.19 

Bay  Point 

3.09 

42.24 

52.10 

McAvoy 

3.26 

45.50 

48.84 

Cornwall 

4.39 

49.89 

44.45 

Antioch ... 

4.65 

54.54 

39.80 

Brentwood 

8.16 

62.70 

31.64 

Byron 

5.13 

67.83 

26  51 

Bethany 

8.81 

76.64 

17.70 

TRACY 

6.61 

83.25 

11.09 

Banta 

3.09 

86.34 

8.00 

LATH POP  

8.00 

94.34 

Total  from  San  Francisco  to  Lathrop  . . 

94.34 

1 

180 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


On,  on  we  ride,  past  the  western  suburbs  of  Oakland,  the 
Stock  Yards,  and  West  Berkeley,  various  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments, catching  a hasty  glimpse  of  the  California  University 
buildings,  the  Deaf,  Dumb,  and  Blind  Asylum,  and  other  State 
institutions,  standing  among  the  gently  rolling  foot-hills  of  the 
Contra  Costa  Range,  the  distance  for  many  miles  out  being  dotted 
with  comfortable  residences  or  prosperous  farms.  Back  of  and 
east  of  these  rise  the  green  yet  almost  treeless  ridges  of  the  Contra 
Costa  Hills,  covered  to  their  summits  in  spring  and  early  summer 
with  a luxuriant  growth  of  wild  oats,  which,  in  the  fall,  change 
to  a rich  golden  brown,  from  very  dryness. 

WILD  OATS,  HOW  PRESERVED  FROM  EXTERMINATION. 

In  early  days,  owing  to  carelessness,  or  to  wantonness, 
miles  of  this  parched  surface  would  be  ignited,  and  fire  sweep 
over  it  in  rolling  waves,  throwing  its  lurid  light  both  far  and 
near,  and  burning  everything  that  was  combustible — the  wild 
oats  included.  Fortunately,  however,  nature  had  provided  each 
grain  with  two  slender  extremities,  as  though  anticipating  the 
coming  danger ; and  as  the  oats  dropped  down  upon  the  ground, 
and  became  swollen  by  the  dews  of  night,  those  extremities  were 
contracted  inwards  towards  the  body  of  the  grain,  when  their 
feet  inserted  themselves  into  the  ground ; the  next  day’s  warmth 
dried  out  the  moisture,  and  in  so  doing  straightened  out  the  legs, 
so  that  by  this  process  the  grain  itself  was  forced  forward,  until 
it  dropped  into  one  of  the  many  sun-cracks  near,  and  was  entirely 
out  of  danger  from  the  destroying  element.  The  first  heavy  rains 
following,  swell  the  earth  sufficiently  to  cover  the  wild  oats  en- 
tirely up ; when  they  stool  out  from  among  their  hiding-places  in 
the  cracks;  and  when  the  tender  shoots  make  their  appearance, 
the  whole  surface  presents  a resemblance  to  some  grotesquely 
woven,  tessellated  carpet. 

Moving  rapidly  forward,  and  shooting  past  some  stations 
without  stopping,  our  course,  for  nearly  thirty  miles,  lies  along 
the  southeastern  margin  of  the  charming  bays  of  San  Francisco 
and  San  Pablo ; the  light  glinting  upon  their  waters,  and  beyond 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


181 


which  are  the  purple  hills  looming  up  in  picturesque  irregularity, 
indicating  numerous  spurs,  or  starting  points  of  apparently 
different  ranges,  until  we  pass  the  Starr  Co.’s  flouring  mills 
(where  some  two  thousand  five  hundred  barrels  of  flour  are  said 
to  be  manufactured  daily)  and  arrive  at  Vallejo  Junction.  Now 
we  lose  those  of  our  fellow-passengers  who  are  bound  for  Vallejo, 
the  Government  works  of  Mare  Island,  Napa,  and  other  pros- 
perous settlements  in  these  midland  valleys. 

Three  miles  farther  on — the  intermediate  distance  occupied 
mainly  by  grain  warehouses  and  workshops — we  reach  the  fa- 
mous ferry  landing  of  Port  Costa,  where  all  Eastern-bound  passen- 
gers leave  us  for  their  multifarious  destinations.  Here  we  find 

THE  MONSTER  C.  P.  R.  R.  TRANSFER  BOAT  “ SOLANO.” 

This  plies  between  Port  Costa  and  Benicia,  across  the  Straits 
of  Carquinez,  the  distance  between  the  slips  being  within  a few 
feet  of  one  mile.  As  this  is  the  largest  boat  of  her  class  afloat,  the 
following  description,  kindly  furnished  by  its  owners,  will  be 
found  interesting: — 

The  dimensions  of  the  donble-ender  transfer  boat  Solano  are:  Length 
over  all,  424  feet;  length  on  bottom,  406  feet;  height  of  sides,  at  center,  18 
feet  5 inches;  at  ends,  from  bottom  of  boat,  15  feet  10  inches;  moulded 
beam,  64  feet;  extreme  width  over  guards,  116  feet;  camber,  or  reverse 
shear  of  deck,  2 feet  6 inches.  Draught,  light,  5 feet;  loaded,  6 feet  6 
inches.  Registered  tonnage,  3,541  31-100  tons. 

She  has  two  vertical  beam  engines:  Cylinders,  60-inch  bore,  11  feet 
stroke;  wheels,  30  feet  diameter,  with  24  buckets  each,  17  feet  face. 

Engines  are  driven  by  8 steel  boilers,  each  28  feet  long,  7 feet  diame- 
ter of  shells,  containing  143  tubes,  4 inches  diameter  by  16  feet  long. 
Total  heating  surface  in  8 boilers,  19,640  square  feet;  grate  surface,  288 
square  feet,  capable  of  driving  engines  with  2,000  horse-power  each.  The 
boilers  are  placed  in  pairs,  on  the  guards,  forward  and  abaft  the  paddle- 
boxes,  connected  with  engines,  so  that  one  or  all  may  be  used  at 
pleasure. 

The  engines  are  placed  on  the  center  line  of  the  boat,  fore  and  aft  of 
the  center  of  boat,  8 feet,  making  distance  from  center  to  center  of  shafts 
16  feet,  and  not  placed  abreast  of  each  other,  as  in  the  usual  manner. 
The  object  of  this  arrangement  is  to  give  room  on  deck  for  four  tracks — 


182 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


and  each  wheel  being  driven  by  an  independent  engine,  enables  the  boat 
to  be  more  easily  handled  in  entering  slips. 

Among  other  novelties  in  her  construction  are  four  Pratt  trusses, 
arranged  fore  and  aft,  directly  under  tracks,  varied  in  size  to  meet  the 
strains  upon  them.  These  give  longitudinal  stiffness,  and  connect  the 
deck  and  bottom  of  the  boat,  making  her  in  reality  a huge  floating  bridge. 
In  addition  there  are  eleven  water-tight  transverse  bulkheads,  dividing 
the  hull  into  twelve  compartments,  rendering  her  absolutely  secure  from  all 
danger  of  sinking,  besides  adding  additional  stiffness  to  the  boat. 

There  are  four  balanced  rudders  at  each  end  of  boat,  11 feet  long 
by  5^  feet  deep,  coupled  together  and  worked  by  hydraulic  steering  gear, 
operated  by  independent  steam-engines  and  pumps.  The  steering  gear  is 
connected  also  with  steering  wheels  in  the  ordinary  manner — the  pilot 
houses  being  40  feet  above  deck,  affording  the  helmsman  a clear  view,  fore 
and  aft. 

There  are  four  bridges  running  atliwartship,  and  another  fore  and 
aft,  connecting  the  idiot  houses.  Upon  the  deck  are  four  tracks  extend- 
ing the  entire  length,  with  capacity  for  48  freight  cars,  with  locomotive, 
or  24  passenger  coaches  of  the  largest  class. 

The  aprons  connecting  the  boat  with  the  slips  at  Benicia  and  Port 
Costa  are  each  100  feet  long,  with  four  tracks,  so  arranged  that  freight 
and  passenger  trains  are  run  aboard  without  being  uncoupled  from  the 
locomotive.  The  aprons  weigh,  each,  150  tons,  and  are  worked  by  a com- 
bination of  pontoons  and  counter-weights,  by  hydraulic  power. 

In  the  hold  of  the  boat  are  commodious  quarters  for  the  officers  and 
crew;  on  deck,  rooms  for  the  transaction  of  railroad  business. 

THE  STRAITS  OF  CARQUINEZ. 

These  form  the  only  outlet  for  the  entire  water-shed  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  and  the  great  basins  of  the  Sacramento 
and  San  Joaquin  Rivers,  with  their  tributaries,  comprising  an  area 
of  nearly  thirty  thousand  square  miles.  This,  therefore,  from 
necessity,  forms  the  only  inland.  Golden  Gate-like  entrance,  for 
all  vessels  needed  for  the  commercial  wants  of  the  interior,  out- 
side and  apart  from  the  out-reaching  railroad  system  of  the  State. 

MARTINEZ. 

Instead  of  crossing  the  Straits  of  Carquinez,  however,  we 
continue  along  its  southern  shore  for  some  distance  yet;  and  in 
about  three  miles  arrive  at  Martinez,  the  county  seat  of  Contra 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


183 


Costa  County.  This,  believe  me,  is  one  of  the  prettiest  agricult- 
ural villages  in  any  country.  A week  among  its  vineyards, 
gardens,  groves,  and  farms,  will  convince  the  most  skeptical  of 


COUNTRY  NEAR  MARTINEZ. 


this.  Here,  too,  the  beautiful  live  oak  (Quercus  agrifolia)  and 
the  gracefully  drooping  white  oak  (Q.  lobata)  add  their  inviting 
attractions  to  the  landscape.  This,  moreover,  is  the  avenue  by 
which  Pacheco  and  other  valleys  are  reached,  and  where  the 
native  Californians  in  early  days  enjoyed  so  many  pastimes; 
which,  like  many  of  its  people,  have  passed  away  forever.  On 
this  account  I am  tempted  to  briefly  chronicle  some  of  the  most 

POPULAR  AMUSEMENTS  OF  NATIVE  CALIFORNIANS. 

Like  their  Mexican  prototypes,  they  are  very  fond  of  amuse- 
ments. They  can  endure  any  amount  of  enjoyment  in  every  form, 
and  at  all  times,  and  take  as  kindly  to  pleasure  as  though  they 
were  born  to  it.  There  is  also  another  sympathetic  characteris- 
tic between  the  two  peoples — neither  of  them  will  do  anything 
to-day  in  the  form  of  work  that  they  can,  by  any  possibility, 
postpone  until  to-morrow.  Manana  esta  siempre  buana  (to- 
morrow is  always  good),  where  labor  is  concerned,  because  it 
never  comes.  On  these  accounts,  mainly,  every  saint’s  day/’ 
among  these  old  settlers,  was  welcomed,  because  it  brought  a 
holiday. 


NATIVE  CALIFORNIANS  RACIN< 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


185 


It  used  to  be  an  interesting  sight  to  watch  these  dusky- 
colored  people  issue  from  their  humble,  tile-roofed,  adobe  dwell- 
ings, in  any  of  their  dreamy  towns,  at  sunrise,  on  any  favorite 
saint’s  day,  when  the  matin  bell  called  to  prayers.  Then  the 
senoritas  and  sehoras,  dressed  in  the  brightest  of  colors ; and  the 
senores  begirt  themselves  in  the  gayest  of  sashes;  and  all  walked, 
saunteringly,  side  by  side,  to  the  shadow-filled  house  of  devotion 
where,  with  low  musical  chantings,  solemn  ceremonials  (and  equally 
solemn  countenances)  they  knelt  together  in  seeming  worship. 

But  no  sooner  was  the  church  threshold  recrossed  than  they 
felt  “A  change  came  o’er  the  spirit  of  my  dream”  that  almost 
amounted  to  an  entire  transformation ; the  muttered  response  was 
eversed  to  a merry  laugh,  and  the  kneeling  posture  to  a lively, 
light-footed  skip.  Now  the  arrangements  for  the  day’s  enjoy- 
ments were  freely  discussed,  and  every  preparation  made  for 
insuring  a general  holiday.  Wayside  stalls,  laden  with  fruits, 
cakes,  sweetmeats,  toys,  and  general  refreshments,  would  spring- 
up  here  and  there;  and  be  well  patronized  by  juveniles,  and 
friends  that  had  come  in  from  the  neighboring  ranches. 

HORSE-RACING. 

Every  native  Californian  is  as  much  at  home  on  a horse, 
with  or  without  a saddle,  as  a Sandwich  Islander  is  upon  a surf- 
board when  he  plays  upon  the  waves;  and,  as  horses  are  their 
particular  pride  (even  while  they  excessively  abuse  them  when  in 
passion),  skill  in  riding  is  the  most  esteemed  of  all  accomplish- 
ments. Associated  with  this,  and  of  which  it  forms  a part,  is  the 
love  of  display ; so  that  next  to  a beautiful  animal  the  most  costly 
of  caparisons  are  preferred.  A native  Californian  will,  therefore, 
invest  his  last  real  (and  go  hungry)  rather  than  forego  the  in- 
dulgence of  expensive  ornaments  for  his  saddle,  bridle,  and  spurs. 
And  as  horse-racing  strikingly  provides  him  with  the  opportunity 
for  exhibiting  these  to  the  best  advantage  before  the  fair  sex,  and 
his  envious  companions,  he  indulges  it  to  infatuation.  Scarcely 
secondary  to  this,  and  for  the  selfsame  reasons,  follows  the  popu- 
lar pastime  of  “ snatching  the  rooster.” 


186 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


NATIVE  CALIFORNIAN,  WHEN  AT  FULL  SPEED,  SNATCHING  THE  ROOSTER. 


As  illustrated  in  the  above  engraving  the  body  of  the  rooster 
is  buried,  so  that  nothing  but  the  head  is  visible  above  ground. 
All  of  those  who  are  mounted,  and  whose  horses  are  prancing  and 
dancing,  about  sixty  yards  distant,  are  to  take  part  in  the  sport> 
and  are  impatiently  awaiting  their  turn.  The  moment  the  signal 
is  given  for  the  start,  the  impetuous  and  expectant  rider  sets 
.spurs  to  his  horse,  and  dashes  out  at  the  top  of  his  speed ; and, 
when  nearly  opposite  the  would-be  prize,  he  makes  a dexterous 
swoop  down  to  it;  and,  if  he  succeeds  in  clutching  and  unearth- 
ing the  bird,  he  bears  off  the  trophy  in  triumph,  amid  the  applause 
of  the  concourse  assembled.  But,  should  he  fail  in  the  effort,  as 
most  frequently  happens,  he  not  only  loses  the  favors  he  had 
looked  forward  to  winning,  but  sometimes  is  unhorsed  with 
violence,  and  dragged  in  the  dust,  at  the  risk  of  serious  accident; 
and  that,  too,  amid  the  derisive  jeers  and  laughter  of  the  spectators. 
Valuable  horses,  with  their  costly  trappings,  and  sometimes  large 
sums  of  money,  and  even  ranches,  are  not  infrequently  staked 
upon  the  issue  of  “ snatching  the  rooster.” 

Another  source  of  amusement  among  native  Californians,  and 
this  also  was  intended  to  illustrate  their  dexterity  in  horsemanship, 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


187 


is  to  plac$  a rawhide  flat  upon  the  ground;  and,  when  the  horse  is 
galloping  swiftly,  to  suddenly  check  him  in  the  moment  his  fore- 
feet strike  the  hide.  If,  by  any  possibility,  the  horse  is  allowed  to 
cross  this  before  stopping,  the  rider  is  berated  most  unmercifully 
for  his  lack  of  skill,  especially  if  he  should  be  unseated  in  the 
effort.  But  the  greatest  of  all  sources  of  gratification,  to  all  classes 
and  to  both  sexes,  were  the 

BULL,  AND  BULL  AND  BEAR  FIGHTS. 

After  the  discovery  of  gold,  and  before  their  grounds  were 
acquired  and  much  settled  up  by  Americans,  these  people  took 
increased  delight  in  the  cruel  and  dangerous  recreation  of  bull- 
baiting, and  bull  and  bear  fighting,  until  1852,  when  it  was 
frowned  down  by  the  public,  and  prevented  by  the  authorities. 
On  one  occasion  thousands  of  persons  had  collected,  in  one  of  our 
populous  valleys,  to  witness  one  of  these  disgraceful  exhibitions, 
when  twelve  bulls,  two  large  grizzly  bears,  and  a considerable 
number  of  Indians  were  engaged  at  different  times.  In  the  second 
day’s  encounter  four  Indians  and  one  horse  were  killed;  and 
while  the  sharp  horns  of  the  infuriated  bull  were  goring  their 
voluntary  victims,  the  band  would  strike  up  a lively  tune  to 
smother  their  cries  and  moans.  Fortunately  these,  with  cock- 
fighting  and  other  debasing  amusements,  have,  let  us  hope,  for- 
ever ended,  as  they  have  been  superseded  by  those  which  are 
progressive  and  refining. 

The  native  Californians,  with  their  half-dreamy  and  semi- 
Teligious  teachings,  seemed  to  have  been  a compromise  between 
barbarism  on  the  one  hand  and  the  sesthetical  refinement  of 
progress  on  the  other;  and,  owing  to  their  easy,  “ go-as-you-please  ” 
temperaments,  and  manners,  have  been  despoiled,  and  sharply 
elbowed  off  the  track  in  the  great  race  of  life,  with  a few  tena- 
cious and  plucky  exceptions;  and,  with  their  customs,  for  the  most 
part,  been  retired  into  the  irretrievable  past. 

Leaving  the  county  seat  of  Contra  Costa  behind  us,  with  the 

rolling  hills  that  surround  it,  we  emerge  into  an  open  country 
13 


188 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


studded  with  farms  that  skirt  the  base  of  an  imposing  mountain 
on  our  right,  known  to  the  world  as 

MONTE  DEL  DIABLO. 

Whether  we  are  walking  on  the  streets  of  San  Francisco,  or 
sailing  on  our  bays  and  navigable  rivers,  or  riding  on  the  roads 
in  the  Sacramento  or  San  Joaquin  Valleys,  or  standing  on  the 
elevated  ridges  of  the  Sierras;  in  lonely  boldness,  at  almost  every 
turn,  Monte  Diablo  stands  prominently  out  as  the  great  land- 
mark of  Central  California. 

Viewed  from  the  northwest  or  southeast,  it  appears  to  have 
a double  crown,  with  two  elevated  crests  that  are  about  three 
miles  apart.  The  southwestern  is  the  higher,  with  an  elevation 
of  three  thousand  eight  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  sea  level. 
From  this  lofty  standpoint  the  country  is  spread  out  before  you 
like  an  immense  map,  covering  an  estimated  area  of  forty  thou- 
sand square  miles  of  land,  and  forming  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able panoramas  ever  viewed  by  human  eyes.  To  describe  this  in 
detail  would  of  itself  fill  a volume.  It  is  presumed  that  its 
name-givers,  the  early  padres,  having  climbed  it,  and  looked 
around  upon  its  unspeakable  wonders  with  awe,  recalled  to 
memory  that  passage  of  holy  writ  from  Matt.  4:8,  9:  4 4 The 
devil  taketh  him  [Jesus]  up  into  an  exceeding  high  mountain, 
and  sheweth  him  all  the  kingdoms  of  the  world,  and  the  glory  of 
them ; and  saith  unto  him,  All  these  things  will  I give  thee,  if 
thou  wilt  fall  down  and  worship  me,”  and  that  this  suggested 
the  name.  Without  even  attempting  an  outline  of  the  glorious 
view  presented,  let  me  counsel  you  to  pay  the  summit  of  Monte 
del  Diablo  a visit,  if  you  wish  to  revel  in  a scenic  banquet,  the 
memory  of  which  will  remain  with  you  pleasantly  forever.  To 
accomplish  this  you  leave  the  train  at  Martinez,  and  proceed  to 
Clayton ; whence  you  can  ride  to  the  very  summit,  by  a fairly 
good  road,  and  back  again  to  Clayton,  in  a single  day. 

For  the  purpose  of  surveying  the  State  into  a network  of 
township  lines,  three  '‘meridians,”  or  initial  points,  were  estab- 


TI1E  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


189 


lished  by  the  United  States  Survey,  namely:  Monte  Diablo  (Contra 
Costa  County),  Mount  San  Bernardino  (San  Bernardino  County)^ 
and  Mount  Pierce  (Humboldt  County).  Across  the  highest  peaks 
of  each  of  these  a “ meridian  line”  and  a “base  line”  were  run; 
the  latter  being  from  east  to  west,  and  the  former  from  north  to 
south.  Of  these  three  the  Monte  Diablo  is  by  far  the  most  com- 
prehensive, as  it  includes  all  the  lands  lying  between  the  Coast 
Range  and  the  Sierras,  and  from  the  Siskiyou  Mountains  to  the 
head  of  the  Tulare  Valley. 

The  geologic  features  of  Monte  Diablo  are  mainly  primitive, 
although  surrounded  by  sedimentary  rock,  abounding  in  marine 
shells.  Near  its  summit  gold-bearing  quartz  has  been  found  in 
veins;  on  its  western  slope  hornblende;  and,  in  its  numerous  spurs, 
an  inexhaustible  supply  of  limestone.  It  is  said  that  both  copper 
and  cinnabar  ore  has  been  found  here,  but  with  what  truthfulness 
has  not  been  determined.  At  the  eastern  base  of  Monte  Diablo  sev- 
eral veins  of  coal  have  been  found,  but  this  being  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  sulphur,  has  been  used,  principally,  for  steamboats. 

The  canons  of  this  mountain  are  lined  with  stunted  oak,  and 
pines;  and  wild  oats  and  chaparral,  alternately,  grow  from  base 
to  summit.  In  the  fall  season,  when  the  herbage  and  dead  bushes 
are  perfectly  dry,  the  Indians  have  sometimes  set  portions  of  the 
surface  on  fire,  and  when  the  breeze  is  fresh,  and  the  night  dark, 
the  lurid  flames  leap,  and  curl,  and  sweep,  now  to  this  side  and 
now  to  that,  and  present  a spectacle  magnificent  beyond  the  power 
of  language  to  express. 

But  as  time  forbids  a longer  tarrying  here,  for  the  present  at 
least,  let  us  ride  onward  past  farms,  with  cattle  and  horses  on 
either  side  the  track;  shoot  under  tramways  from  the  Monte 
Diablo  coal  mines  at  Cornwall  and  Antioch;  and,  before  long, 
arrive  at  Tracy,  where  the  Western  Division  of  the  Central  Pa- 
cific Railroad  forms  a junction  with  the  main  line.  But  a short 
time  will  elapse  before  crossing  the  San  Joaquin  River  (which 
obtains  its  waters  from  the  living  glaciers  of  Mount  Ritter,  the 
Minarets,  and  other  lofty  peaks  of  the  main  chain  of  the  Sierra 


190  IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 

Nevada  Mountains)  and,  continuing  about  three  miles  beyond, 
we  arrive  at 

LATHROP. 

Here  the  trunk,  or  main  line,  forms  a junction  with  its  diverg- 
ing branches,  both  north  and  south.  This  station — named  in 
honor  of  Mrs.  Leland  Stanford  (wife  of  Governor,  now  United 
States  Senator  Stanford,  one  of  the  founders  and  builders  of  the 
Central  Pacific  Railroad,  and  continuously  its  president)  whose 
maiden  name  was  Lathrop — from  its  establishment,  has  always 
been  a general  stopping-place  for  refreshments;  and,  when  ap- 
proaching it,  you  will  still  hear  some  resonant  voice  announce, 
“Lathrop — twenty  minutes  for  meals.”  In  recent  years  an  oppo- 
sition gong  has  rung  out  its  unmusical  clang,  to  tell  to  the  hun- 
gry that  there  are  other  places  at  Lathrop,  besides  the  station, 
wdiere  the  hungry  can  be  fed.  Here,  also,  are  workshops,  engine 
houses,  surplus  cars,  and  all  the  usual  paraphernalia  of  a central 
depot;  so  that  “extras”  of  every  kind  needed  in  railroad  trans- 
portation can  be  furnished  without  the  least  unnecessary  delay. 
Railway  officers,  with  their  assistants,  naturally  make  this  quite 
a lively  station;  and,  when  the  trains  arrive  with  their  passen- 
gers, all  is  bustle  and  excitement.  Within  the  past  few  years  this 
has  grown  somewhat  into  an  agricultural  settlement,  which,  with 
the  conveniences  needed  by  railway  employes,  has  changed  its 
formerly  sleepy  and  forsaken  look  to  one  of  wide-awake  busi- 
ness prosperity,  that  augurs  well  for  its  future  development  and 
advancement. 

If  we  are  bound  for  Yo  Semite  via  Modesto,  Merced,  Berenda, 
or  Madera,  we  keep  our  seats  in  the  car ; but,  if  our  ticket  pro- 
vides for  entering  the  great  Valley  via  Stockton,  Milton,  and  the 
Calaveras  Big  Trees,  or  Milton  direct,  we  change  both  ourselves 
and  our  baggage  to  the  Stockton  train.  F or  particulars  concern- 
ing routes  beyond  Lathrop,  the  reader  is  referred  to  one  or  other 
of  succeeding  chapters  so  that  he  may  obtain  the  information  de- 
sired on  the  one  he  has  decided  to  take. 


THE  BAY  AND  RIVER  ROUTES  TOWARDS  YO  SEMITE. 


Brea,the  soft,  ye  winds!  ye  waves,  in  silence  sleep. 


— Gay. 


You  know  I say 
Just  what  I think,  and  nothing  more  or  less, 

And,  when  I pray,  my  heart  is  in  my  prayer. 

I cannot  say  one  thing  and  mean  another: 

If  I can’t  pray,  I will  not  make  believe! 

— Longfellow’s  Christus,  Pt.  TIL 


The  fall  of  waters  and  the  song  of  birds, 

And  hills  that  echo  to  the  distant  herds, 

Are  luxuries  excelling  all  the  glare 

The  world  can  boast,  and  her  chief  favorites  share. 

— Cowper’s  Retirement . 


About  two  hundred  yards  northerly  of  the  Market  Street 
Wharf  lies  that  of  Washington  Street,  whence  sail  the  San 
Joaquin  River  steamboats  bound  for  Stockton,  on  the  Milton, 
Calaveras  Big  Tree,  and  Big  Oak  Flat  routes  to  Yo  Semite,  with 
other  destinations.  If  the  freight  is  all  aboard,  they  sail  at  five 
o’clock  P.  M. ; but,  if  not,  they  generally  delay  starting  until  it  is. 
As  at  the  Market  Street  Wharf,  the  scene  here  is  full  of  excite- 
ment, and  of  positive  interest,  although  not  partaking,  altogether, 
of  the  same  characteristics.  The  former  is  quiet  and  methodical; 
while  this  is  irregular,  and  somewhat  contentious;  owing  to  the 
established  rivalry  between  the  two  lines.  Each  has  its  friends; 
and  both  employ  their  own  advocates.  Eagerness  to  possess  pas- 
sengers, at  any  cost  of  eloquence,  or  of  tact,  is  of  more  moment- 
ous consideration,  at  this  juncture,  than  any  rules  of  ordinary 
courtesy,  or  of  personal  convenience.  But,  once  on  board  either 
of  the  boats,  you  are  safely  delivered  from  that  vortex  of  conten- 
tion, and  peace  reigns  supreme.  Polite  attention  places  you  entirely 

(191) 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


192 


at  your  ease ; and,  if  the  war  of  words  is  still  raging  below,  it  only 
becomes  a source  of  amusement,  to  beguile  the  otherwise  wearying 
moments  of  waiting.  This,  however,  is  of  short  duration,  as 
orders  are  soon  given  by  the  captain  to  “ Take  in  the  plank/’ 
Cast  off  your  lines;  ” and,  just  as  we  are  about  to  move  out  from 
the  wharf,  there  is  almost  sure  to  be  one  or  more  passengers  that 
have  arrived,  just  too  late  to  get  aboard;  and  who,  in  their  excite- 
ment, often  throw  their  overcoat,  or  valise,  or  other  articles  on 
the  boat  (or  overboard),  yet  neglect  the  only  opportune  moment  of 
getting  on  themselves;  and,  consequently,  are  not  only  left  be- 
hind, but  are  separated  from  their  baggage;  and  which,  perhaps, 
contains  the  only  treasures  they  possess  on  earth ! Not  inconsid- 
erately of  this,  let  us  hope, 

AWAY  WE  SAIL. 

Who,  at  such  a season,  does  not  recall  the  peaceful  calm  that 
uninvitedly  steals  over  the  spirit  the  very  moment  the  boat  has 
cast  off  her  moorings,  and  sails  out  upon  the  placid  waters  of  the 
Bay?  All  of  the  fatigues  and  wearying  cares  of  the  few  last 
hours  ashore — and  something,  kept  to  the  last,  is  almost  sure  to 
go  unaccomplished — are  left,  with  it,  behind;  and,  for  the  time 
being  at  least,  are  merged  into  absolute  forgetfulness.  Now 
comes  the  season  of  bewitching,  perfect,  unrestrained  composure, 
as  calm  as  the  brine  over  which  we  are  gliding.  At  such  a be- 
fitting time  for  impressions,  and  mood  for  enjoyment,  every  object 
presenting  itself  reveals  to  us  an  exalted  interpretation.  The 
golden  sheen  of  the  setting  sun,  as  it  lights  up  the  pathway  of 
commerce  through  the  Golden  Gate,  seems  brighter  and  more 
golden  as  we  pass  it.  Even  the  fog-banks  that  sometimes  roll 
through  the  Golden  Gate,  in  summer,  have  silvery  edges;  and  the 
haze  that  drapes  each  mountain  height,  or  dreamily  sleeps  in 
far-off  canons,  is  of  a more  ethereal  purple  when  we  thus  prepar- 
edly commune  with  nature’s  mysterious  wonders.  Now  we  are 
sailing  past,  let  us  take 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


193 


A GLIMPSE  THROUGH  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

There  is  a peculiarly  seductive  charm  that  stealthily  yet 
feelingly  carries  one  into  the  far  dreamy  past,  as  he  looks  upon 
this  scene;  and  recalls  old-time  memories,  when  this  was  almost 
the  only  entrance  to  the  land  of  gold.  How  revertingly  the  sight 
again  brings  into  review  the  golden-winged  hopes,  and  heart-throb- 
bing yearnings  of  the  many  who  entered,  or  wished  to  enter,  its 
charmed  portals,  “in  days  of  aulcl  lang  syne,”  and  make  it  the 
admission  gate  to  fame  and  fortune ; but  who,  perhaps,  after  com- 
ing through  it,  spent  years  of  unremitting  and  unrequited  toil; 
and  yet  hoped,  aye,  longed,  to  pass  through  it  once  again,  to 
that  place  still  endearingly  called  “ home  ” — 

“ That  spot  of  earth,  by  love  supremely  blest, 

A dearer,  sweeter  spot,  than  all  the  rest,” 

With  a chastened  sadness  in  the  heart,  because  they  had  hoped  and 
yearned  in  vain.  But  to  those  whom  success  had  crowned  with 
its  exhilarating  laurels,  how  exultingly — and  let  us  hope  grate- 
fully— welcome  was  their  homeward  passage  through  the  Golden 
Gate ; to  share  their  fortunes  with  beloved  ones,  who,  perhaps,  had 
long  been  expectantly  awaiting  their  return. 

Many  have  supposed  that  the  origin  and  meaning  of  the 
name  given  to  this  entrance  to  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  was  sug- 
gested by  the  staple  mineral  of  the  country,  gold.  This  is  an 
error,  as  it  was  called  “The  Golden  Gate”  before  the  precious 
metal  was  discovered.  It  was  probably  used  for  the  first  time 
in  a work  entitled  “ A Geographical  Review  of  California,”  by 
Col.  J.  C.  Fremont,  published,  with  a map,  in  New  York, 
February,  1848 ; and  as  gold  was  discovered  on  the  19th  of  January 
preceding,  the  news  could  not  have  reached  the  office  of  publica- 
tion, in  those  days,  in  time  to  influence  this  nomenclature.  It 
is  true  there  “may  have  been”  some  “spiritual  telegrams”  (!) 
sent  to  the  author  of  the  name,  Col.  J.  C.  Fremont,  telling  him  of 
the  glorious  dawn  of  a golden  day  that  had  broken  upon  the 
world  by  the  discovery  of  gold  at  Sutter’s  Mill,  Coloma,  and  thus 
become  suggestive  of  the  golden  age,  about  to  be  inaugurated,  and 


194 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


of  the  name.  Its  real  origin  was  owing  to  the  excessively  pro- 
ductive lands  of  the  interior,  especially  those  around  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco.  From  whatever  source  the  name  " Golden  Gate  ” 
has  sprung,  its  characteristic  appropriateness  will  be  unhesitatingly 


PASSING  THE  GOLDEN  GATE. 

conceded.  Having  dwelt  somewhat  at  length  upon  the  name, 
let  us  now  briefly  describe  the  place. 

The  Golden  Gate,  then,  is  the  only  entrance  by  sea  to  the 
land-locked  and  magnificent  harbor  of  San  Francisco.  It  is 
situated  in  the  narrowest  part  of  the  channel,  between  Fort  Point 
and  Lime  Point.  Its  width  is  one  thousand,  seven  hundred  and 
seventy-seven  yards.  Here  the  tide  ebbs  and  flows  at  the  rate  of 
about  six  knots  an  hour,  and  rises  or  falls  some  seven  feet.  The 
center  of  the  Gate  is  in  longitude  122°30'  from  Greenwich. 
Through  this  flows  the  drainage  of  all  the  rivers  from  the  High 
Sierra,  entering  the  valleys  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin, 
as  well  as  from  several  tributaries  of  the  Coast  Raney.  It  has 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLE  I 


19  5 


depth  sufficient  to  float,  safely,  ships  of  the  heaviest  tonnage. 
Even  the  circular  sand-bar  at  its  entrance,  seven  miles  in  length, 
offers  no  obstacle  to  this,  even  at  low  tide;  except,  possibly,  when 
the  wind  is  blowing  heavily  from  the  northwest,  west,  or  south- 
east; then  it  is  scarcely  safe  for  a vessel  of  the  largest  class  to 
cross  it  at  low  tide.  On  the  south  side  of  the  Golden  Gate  is  Point 
Lobos  (Wolves  Point),  from  whence  vessels  at  sea  are  signaled; 
and  on  the  northern,  Point  Bonita,  upon  which  is  a light-house; 
while  opposite  Lime  Point  stands  the  frowning  fort,  Winfield 
Scott. 


THE  FORT,  NEAR  VIEW. 


You  can  see  by  its  grim  and  defiant  presence  that  it  means 
business,  when  the  order  comes  to  “let  loose  the  dogs  of  war.”  It 
is  four  tiers  in  height,  the  topmost  of  which  is  sixtv-four  feet  above 
low  tide,  and  is  capable  of  mounting  one  hundred  and  fifty  guns 
— including  a battery  on  the  hill  at  its  back — of  forty-two,  sixty- 
four,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty-eight  pounders,  besides  rifled 


196 


m THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


cannon  of  improved  pattern.  During  an  engagement,  two  thou- 
sand four  hundred  men  can  be  accommodated  here. 

There  is  a light-house  adjoining  the  Fort,  that  can  be  seen 
for  some  ten  or  twelve  miles  outside ; connected  with  which  is  a 
fog-bell  weighing  eleven  hundred  pounds,  that  is  worked  by 
machinery,  and  strikes  five  consecutive  taps  ten  seconds  apart; 
then  has  an  intermission  of  thirty-four  seconds,  when  it  re-com- 
mences  the  ten-second  strike.  This  is  carried  on  continuously  in 
foggy  weather. 

At  a convenient  distance  from  Fort  Point  is  the  Presidio, 
which  is  the  residence  and  head-quarters  of  both  officers  and  men 
for  this  military  district.  Others  are  stationed  at  Point  San  Jose, 
formerly  called  Black  Point.  To  outline  these  even,  with  their 
maneuvering^,  music,  life,  etc.,  would  detain  us  too  long;  but  it 
is  hoped  that  this  “mere  mention”  will  induce  you  to  pay  each 
one  of  these  a visit,  to  see  and  enjoy  them  at  your  leisure,  upon 
your  return. 

But  as  the  keel  of  our  boat  is  speedily  cutting  its  way 
through  the  water,  we  pass  Alcatraz  and  Angel  Islands;  obtain 
glances  of  the  snug  little  towns  of  Saucelito  and  San  Rafael, 
catch  a hasty  sight  of  the  State  Prison  at  San  Quentin ; and, 
almost  before  we  realize  it,  are  opposite  a gaudily  stratified  island 
known  as 


RED  OR  “ TREASURE  ” ROCK. 


This  bright-colored  little  island  was  formerly  called  Treasure, 
and,  in  old  charts,  Golden  Rock,  from  a traditionary  report 
circulated  that  vast  treasures  had  been  buried  there,  by  pirates 
and  old  Spanish  navigators.  Such  stories  were  always  sufficiently 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


197 


stimulating  to  induce  the  semi-demented  adventurer,  and  dime 
novel  reader,  to  attempt  the  securing  of  wealth  with  as  little  exer- 
tion as  possible  of  his  own.  Hence  the  representative  “ treasure 
hunter”  found  occupation  here,  and,  as  elsewhere,  went  unre- 
warded for  his  pains. 

It  is  now  exclusively  called  “ Red  Rock,”  being  composed  of 
numerous  strata,  of  an  endless  variety  of  colors,  the  prevailing  one 
being  red.  There  is  an  article  found  here  that  strikingly  re- 
sembles one  sometimes  found  upon  a lady’s  toilet  table  (in  early 
days,  of  course)  known  as  rouge-powder  (exclusively  monopolized 
in  these  modem  times  by  the  theatrical  profession).  Besides  this 
there  are  several  veins  of  decomposed  rock  resembling  clay,  or 
pigment,  from  four  to  twelve  inches  in  thickness,  and  from  steel- 
gray  to  bright  red  in  color.  Upon  the  beach  small  red  pebbles, 
resembling  carnelian,  are  found  in  abundance.  But  on,  on  we 
sail ; passing  Maria  Island,  and 


THE  TWO  SISTERS, 


Both  of  which  are  covered  with  sea-birds,  that  seem  to  be  taste- 
fully and  gracefully  busy  pluming  their  feathers;  and  who  make 
this  their  roosting  places  at  night,  no  matter  where  they  may 
have  wandered  during  the  day. 

Just  beyond  these  we  shoot  by  San  Pablo  Point  (which  juts 
out  from  the  mainland)  and  enter  the  placid  waters  of  the  bay  of 
San  Pablo.  The  distant  hills,  with  their  lights  and  shadows, 
and  varied  verdure,  encompassing  us,  are  not  less  attractive  upon 
water  than  on  land  for  they  seem  to  charm  us  into  forgetfulness 
of  the  fact  that,  almost  before  we  realize  it,  the  hills  are  closing 
in  upon  us,  and  we  are  rapidly 


198 


jjr  the  heart  of  the  sierras. 


The  Straits  of  Carquinez  connect  the  bays  of  San  Pablo  and 
Suisun ; and,  as  mentioned  in  the  foregoing  chapter,  are  the  only 
outlet  for  all  the  interior  waters  of  the  great  basin  of  the  Sacra- 
mento and  San  Joaquin  Rivers,  with  all  their  tributaries  Our 
course  lies  through  these  straits;  but,  just  before  entering  them,  on 
our  left-hand,  we  obtain  a distant  view  of  the  Government 
Works  at  Mare  Island,  and  the  town  of  Vallejo;  and,  as  we  sail 
onward  towards  the  hills,  the  impression  comes,  almost  irresistibly, 
that  we  are  certainly  running  into  the  bluffs  ahead  of  us,  and  into 
trouble  at  the  same  time;  but  a slight  deviation  in  our  course,  at 
just  the  right  turn  in  the  channel,  proves  that  the  knowledge  and 
skill  of  the  captain  are  superior  to  our  own— which  may  be  a little 

surprising!  , 

When  safely  passing  the  narrowest  part  of  the  channel,  we 

seem  to  be  meeting  “ the  leviathan  of  the  deep,”  or  some  other 


THE  10  SEMITE  VALLEY 


199 


huge  monster  that  is  coming  down  fearlessly  upon  us,  and  is 
about  to  swallow  us  up,  as  Jonah  swallowed  the  whale  (?);  but 
just  as  we  might  suppose  it  to  be  opening  its  immense  mouth  for 
one  easy  effort,  it  shoots  to  one  side  (as  we  do  to  the  other)  as 
much  as  to  say,  "You  needn’t  be  afraid  of  me,  I am  only  the 
C.  P.  R.  R.  transit  boat  Solano , on  my  way  from  Benicia  to  Port 
Costa ! ” 


LOOKING  TOWARD  THE  SACRAMENTO  RIVER. 


1JST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


200 

It  would  detain  us  too  long  to  tell  of  the  many  interesting 
places  to  visit  at  Benicia — once  the  capital  of  the  State — or  the 
objects  worthy  of  notice  at  Army  Point,  and  Martinez  (briefly 
outlined  in  the  last  chapter) ; so,  if  you  please,  we  will  regretfully 
pass  these,  just  as  the  moonlight  is  silvering  the  waters  of 

THE  BAY  OF  SUISUN. 

This,  with  its  numerous  islands  (almost  level  with  the  surface  at 
high  water),  is  nearly  as  large  as  the  bay  of  San  Pablo.  At  one 
time,  “in  the  uninterpretable  past,”  it  must  have  resembled  a 
small  inland  sea,  inasmuch  as  the  broad  expanse  of  the  tule  lands, 
now  covering  several  thousands  of  square  miles,  once  formed  a 
portion  of  the  bay.  An  apparently  interminable  sea  of  tules 
extends  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  northeasterly  up  the 
valley  of  the  Sacramento,  and  for  more  than  half  that  distance 
southerly,  up  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin,  with  an  average 
width  of  thirty  miles;  and  as  nearly  all  of  this  land  is  overflowed 
during  high  water  there  can  be  but  little  doubt  of  its  once  hav- 
ing formed  an  immense  lake. 


SALMON  FISHING — PAiiNG  OUT  THE  SEINE. 


201 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 

THE  SAN  JOAQUIN  RIVER. 

Deriving  its  main  source  from  the  living  glaciers  of  Mt. 
Ritter,  the  Minarets,  and  other  lofty  peaks  of  the  High  Sierra, 
whence  it  hurries  rapidly  to  the  plains,  but  runs  sluggishly 
through  these  tules,  and  forms  one  of  the  most  serpentine  of  all 
rivers  out-of-doors.  It  is  navigable  for  somewhat  commodious 
steamboats  and  large  schooners  to  Stockton,  and  some  seventy 
miles  beyond  for  smaller  craft.  It  makes  its  debouchure  into  the 
bay  of  Suisun  just  above  Cornwall  and  Antioch,  landings  for  the 
Monte  Diablo  coal  mines. 


SALMON  PISHING — HAULING  IN  THE  SEINE. 

Were  we  passing  this  earlier  in  the  day,  the  scene  would  pos- 
sibly be  enlivened  by  the  sight  of  sundry  small  boats,  and  men 
engaged  in  salmon  fishing,  which  still  forms  quite  an  impor- 
tant industry  here,  and  at  the  junction  of  the  Sacramento  River 
with  the  Bay  of  Suisun;  interesting,  however,  as  it  might  be  to 
linger  here,  and  watch  the  modus  operandi  of  taking  in  this 
valuable  fish,  we  must  now  forego  it. 


202 


IK  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


SALMON  FISHING — A GROUP  OF  SALMON. 

After  touching  at  the  latter  settlements  for  the  disembarka- 
tion of  passengers  and  cargo,  we  are  soon  sailing  upon  the  turbid 
waters  of  the  San  Joaquin.  But  for  the  overshadowing  mountain 
of  Monte  Diablo,  whose  omnipresence  still  asserts  itself  here  as 
elsewhere,  the  scenery  would  prove  to  be  very  uninteresting. 
But,  as  the  evening  is  calm  (and  sultry,  perhaps)  the  mosquitoes 
may  offer  a little  clivertisement;  as,  possibly,  this  may  be  their 
harvest  season;  and,  as  a consequence,  a large  representation  may 
be  out,  on  a free-booting  excursion.  Now,  although  their  harvest- 
home  song  may  be  very  musical  to  those  who  can  enjoy  its  feel- 
ing refrain,  it  becomes  penetratingly  evident  to  any  disinterested 
observer,  that  but  few  persons  on  board  seem  to  have  an  appreci- 
ative ear  for  their  music ! In  order,  however,  to  show  that  they 
have  no  idea  of  being  overlooked,  or  neglected,  the  mosquitoes  take 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


203 


real  pleasure  in  impressing  their  embossed  notes  upon  the  hands, 
faces,  or  foreheads  of  all  unwatchful  sleepers — even  though  their 
slumbers  may  have  been  involuntary  from  exhaustion,  or  in  com- 
bating their  musical  enemies.  While  this  unequal  warfare  is 
going1  on,  and  for  one  carcass  slain  a dozen  mourners  come  to  the 
funeral,  we  may  as  well  do  something  more  than  fight  these  little 
bill-presenting,  tax-collecting  tormentors ; so,  please  permit  me  to 
relate  an  incident  that  occurred,  just  as  I was  leaving*  my  South- 
ern home,  on  the  banks  of  the  4 'Father  of  waters,”  the  old  Missis- 
sippi, in  the  spring  of  1849 : — 

A gentleman  arrived  from  “ Merry  England,”  with  excellent 
letters  of  introduction,  and  was  at  once  admitted  a member  of  our 
family  circle.  Now,  however  strange  it  may  appear,  this  gentle- 
man had  never  looked  upon  a live  mosquito — there  being  no  such 
insect  in  England — and  as  a sequence  was  as  unfamiliar  with  a 
mosquito-net  and  its  uses,  as  the  average  office-holder  might  be 
with  politeness.  The  few, me  de  charge  being  unware  of  this,  had 
omitted  to  call  his  attention  to  the  arrangements  there  for  pass- 
ing a comfortable  night.  In  the  morning,  when  he  presented 
himself  at  the  breakfast-table,  his  face  was  nearly  covered  witli 
wounds  from  the  enemy’s  proboscis ; without  seemingly  noticing 
this,  the  lady  of  the  house  politely  inquired  if  he  had  slept  pleas- 
antly; “ Ye-yes,”  he  replied  with  some  hesitation  “ ye-yes,  tol-er- 
a-bly  pleasant,  the  bed  was  sufficiently  comfortable,  but,  a — a — 
small — fly  annoyed  me  somewhat.”  At  this  confession  the 
assembled  company  could  not  refrain  from  a good  hearty  laugh, 
in  which  the  English  gentleman  most  cordially  joined,  although 
it  was  at  his  expense.  The  good-natured  hostess,  after  duly  sup- 
pressing her  risibility,  explained  the  uses  and  arrangements  of 
the  mosquito-bar,  to  insure  comfort  in  mosquito-infested  countries, 
to  the  entire  satisfaction  of  her  guest.  But  the  small  fly  was  a 
source  of  considerable  mirthfulness  in  our  social  circles  there  for 
a long  time  afterwards. 

"Boxing  the  compass”  in  every  conceivable  direction,  on  a 

sea  of  tules;  stopping  here  and  slowing  there,  to  avoid  a jutting 
14 


204 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


point  of  tales,  or  compass  a bend  of  the  circuitous  river,  upon 
which  we  are  supposed  to  be  sailing ; our  attention  is  attracted  by 
a bright  light  in  the  distance,  accompanied  by  the  startling  infor- 
mation that 

THE  TULES  ARE  ON  FIRE. 

To  those  who  are  unfamiliar  with  the  water-plant,  well  known 
in  California  as  the  tule,  or,  more  generally  called,  tules,  a briefly 
outlined  sketch  may  not  be  unacceptable,  especially  as  the  word 
is  not  to  be  found  in  “ Worcester,”  or  in  “ Webster  Unabridged.” 
Its  botanical  name  is  Scirpus  palustris,  var.  Californica.  In 
form  and  habit  it  resembles  the  eastern  flag,  with  this  differ- 
ence; the  flag  is  flat,  while  the  tule  is  round  for  two-thirds  of  its 
height,  tapering  to  a point,  and  flattening  as  it  tapers,  like  a 
sailor’s  needle.  Although  perennial  in  character,  its  growth  is 
annual,  and  from  six  to  twelve  feet.  Owing  to  the  inexhaustible 
quantities  and  the  vast  area  covered  by  this  plant,  efforts  have 
not  been  wanting  to  press  it  into  useful  service;  for  paper,  encas- 
ing of  bottles,  life-preservers,  underlying  for  carpets,  etc.,  and, 
for  life-preservers  it  is  worth  four  to  one  of  cork.  This,  when 
closely  interwoven  and  stretched  upon  a frame,  then  covered  with 
pitch,  is  said  to  make  a boat  as  light  as  a bark  canoe. 

Let  it  be  remembered  that  there  are  slightly  elevated  grounds, 
and  islands,  in  this  sea  of  tules,  that  are  not  only  inhabited,  but 
which  are  susceptible  of  high  cultivation;  and  are  of  marvelous 
productiveness,  after  the  native  plant  is  subdued;  from  three  to 
four  crops  a year  having  been  harvested  therefrom.  An  intelli- 
gent gentleman,  well  known  to  the  writer,  reliably  informed  him 
that,  while  gathering  one  crop  of  wheat,  yielding  sixty-five  bushels 
to  the  acre,  a neighbor  of  his  was  just  sowing  the  adjoining  lands; 
and  harvested  his  crop  in  sixty  days  thereafter ! One  cultivator 
has  six  thousand  acres  of  potatoes  in  a patch,  on  Roberts’ 
Island.  Most  of  the  vegetables  used  in  Stockton  are  procured 
from  the  tule  lands.  But  from  the  uncertainties  and  dangers  of 
occasional  high  water,  these  tule  lands  would  become  exceedingly 
valuable — and  will  be  when  a thoroughly  efficient  system  of 
leveeing  and  drainage  are  adopted.  , 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


205 

And  let  us,  if  you  please,  suppose  that  a flood-proof  protect- 
ive levee  has  been  constructed  around  two  hundred  thousand 
acres  of  this  productive  land ; with  drains,  waste-gates,  and  every 
other  contrivance  to  insure  its  being  thoroughly  done,  at  an 
estimated  cost  of  $20,000,000.  Then  let  us,  if  you  please,  suppose 
that  this  area  has  been  put  into  successful  cultivation,  and  will 
yield  sixty-five  bushels  to  the  acre,  the  total  product  for  a single 
crop  (and  two  can  be  easily  raised)  would  be  thirteen  million 
bushels;  which,  at  the  low  estimate  of  sixty  cents  per  bushel, 
would  aggregate  $7,800,000  annually,  and  of  course  would  double 
that  amount  should  two  crops  be  realized. 

But,  while  we  have  been  talking,  our  steamboat  has  been 
drawing  nearer  and  nearer  to  the  conflagration,  so  that  we  can 
see  the  broad  sheet  of  devouring  blaze  leaping  into  the  air,  and 
with  tongue  of  flame  licking  up  everything  that  is  combustible, 
like  a prairie  on  fire;  and  which,  with  the  black  smoke  surging 
hither  and  thither,  its  edges  and  masses  covered  with  a lurid  glare, 


THE  SAN  JOAQUIN  RIVER  AT  NIGHT — TULES  ON  FIRE. 


206  IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 

presents  a scene  of  fearful  grandeur,  that  becomes  suggestive  of 
some  earthly  pandemonium.  In  admiration,  we  forget  the  mos- 
quitoes, and  even  the  discordant  and  hoarse  shriek  of  the  so-called 
“steam -whistle,”  that  is  now  announcing  our  approach  to  a 
landing. 

Whenever  a dry  season  comes  upon  California  the  succulent 
pastures  found  here,  by  stock,  supplies  the  needed  forage.  But 


ENTERING  THE  STOCKTON  SLOUGH. 

as  we  are  now  at  the  junction  of  the  Stockton  Slough  with  the 
San  Joaquin  Biver,  we  proceed  up  the  former  for  three  miles,  and 
are  at  the  end  of  our  voyage,  and  the  wharf  of  the  city  of 
Stockton. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

THE  MILTON  AND  CALAVERAS  BIG  TREE  ROUTE. 


And  those  that  paint  them  truest  praise  them  most. 

— Addison’s  Campaign. 

Thought  is  deeper  than  all  speech; 

Feeling  deeper  than  all  thought; 

Souls  to  souls  can  never  teach 
What  unto  themselves  was  taught. 

— 0.  P.  C RANCH. 

So  nature  deals  with  us,  and  takes  away 

Our  playthings  one  by  one,  and  by  the  hand 
Leads  us  to  rest  so  gently,  that  we  go, 

Scarce  knowing  if  we  wish  to  go  or  stay, 

Being  too  full  of  sleep  to  understand 

How  far  the  unknown  transcends  the  what  we  know. 

— Longfellow’s  Nature. 

Having  arrived  at  Lathrop  by  the  main  or  trunk  line  of 
the  Central  Pacific  Railroad,  and  having  arranged  to  journey  via 
the  Calaveras  Big  Tree  Route,  we  enter  the  train  bound  for  Stock- 
ton  ; and,  the  run  being  only  some  nine  miles,  it  is  very  soon  accom- 
plished. As  the  country  is  comparatively  level,  there  is  but  little 
to  excite  interest,  except  to  those  who  delight  in  pastoral  loveliness, 
until  we  are  near  that  city.  Then  the  suburban  residences,  peep- 
ing out  from  between  the  umbrageous  oaks,  and  the  church  spires 
towering  above  them,  tell  that  we  shall  soon  enter  its  hospitable 
precincts.  Acting  upon  the  suggestion  made  in  a former  chapter, 
“ when  it  is  possible  not  to  be  in  a hurry,”  with  your  permission, 
we  will  allow  the  train  to  depart  without  us  this  morning,  and 
take  a stroll  through 

THE  CITY  OF  STOCKTON. 

This  flourishing  commercial  city  is  advantageously  situated 

at  the  head  of  a deep  navigable  slough,  or  arm  of  the  San  Joaquin 

(207) 


208 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


River,  about  three  miles  above  its  junction  with  that  stream. 
The  luxuriant  foliage  of  its  trees,  the  thrifty  growth  of  its  shrubs, 
and  plants  of  every  kind,  give  voiceless  commendation  to  its 
founders  for  choosing  so  desirable  a situation.  It  is  true  that,  as 
this  was  the  head  of  navigation  for  all  supplies  needed  in  the 
proverbially  rich  gold  mines  of  Tuolumne  and  Mariposa  Counties, 
and  intermediate  points,  it  became  a natural  landing  place;  and, 
as  such,  was  therefore  suggestive  of  the  suitability  of  this  lo- 
cation for  the  building  of  a city.  As  a result,  tents  and  cloth 
houses  sprung  up  like  mushrooms;  but  the  fire  of  December  23, 
1849,  entirely  swept  away  the  last  vestige  of  this  city  of  cloth,  and 
destroyed  other  property  to  the  value  of  over  two  hundred  thousand 
dollars.  Almost  before  its  ruins  had  ceased  smouldering,  however, 
a new  and  cleaner  city,  composed  of  an  admixture  of  cloth  and 
wood,  was  erected  in  its  place.  In  the  following  spring  nearly 
all  the  cloth  houses  were  superseded  by  wooden  ones,  and  as  this 
ernbrio  city  was  now  in  steam  communication  with  its  base  of 
supplies  at  San  Francisco,  assurance  was  given  of  its  future 
stability  and  permanence,  and  justified  the  removal  of  wooden 
structures,  and  their  replacement  by  those  of  brick. 

On  the  30th  of  March,  1850,  the  first  weekly  newspaper  was 
published  by  Messrs.  Radcliffe  and  White,  conducted  by  Mr.  John 
White — afterwards  well  known  by  newspaper  men  in  the  Bay 
City.  On  the  same  day  the  first  theatrical  performance  was  given 
in  the  Assembly  Room  of  the  Stockton  House,  by  Bingham  and 
Fury.  The  first  election  was  held  on  the  13th  of  May  following, 
the  population  at  that  early  day  numbering  over  two  thousand. 
The  Stockton  Fire  Department  was  organized  June  20  (1850), 
and  James  E.  Nuttman  (afterwards  associated  with  the  fire  de- 
partment of  San  Francisco)  was  elected  chief  engineer.  On  the 
25th  of  July,  ensuing,  Stockton  was  incorporated  as  a city. 
May  6,  1851,  another  fire  swept  away  nearly  every  building,  and 
destroyed  property  valued  at  a million  and  a half  of  dollars. 
Nothing  daunted,  a new  city  sprung  up,  Phoenix-like,  from  its 
ashes;  and  from  that  day  to  this  the  march  of  improvement  has 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


209 


kept  commensurate  progress  with  the  spirit 
of  the  age,  and  the  requirements  of  its  steady 
development.  Owing  to  the  general  healthi- 
ness of  its  climate,  and  the  convenience  of 
its  location,  Stockton  was  chosen,  by  an  Act 
of  the  Legislature  of  1853,  for  the  erection 
here  of  a State  asylum  for  the  insane ; and 
this,  with  greatly  enlarged  accommodation, 
has  been  continued  here  ever  since. 

PRAIRIE  SCHOONERS. 

One  of  the  most  striking  features  of  the 
commerce  of  this  city  in  early  days,  and  one 
that  well  deserves  to  be  commemorated,  was 
the  large  number  of  heavily  laden  freight 
wagons  that  used  to  leave  it  for  the  mines. 
These,  owing  to  their  huge  bulk  and  enor- 
mous carrying  capacity,  were,  not  inap- 
propriately, denominated  “ Prairie  Schoon- 
ers,” and  "Steamboats  of  the  Plains.” 
They  would  average  twenty -five  thousand 
pounds  per  trip.  The  cost  of  wagons  was 
from  $900  to  $1,100,  and  they  were  generally 
over  twenty  feet  in  length.  Large  mules, 
having  the  requisite  strength,  used  to  cost 
$350  each;  and  some,  the  finest  and  best, 
$1,400  per  span.  The  main  advantage  of 
these  large  teams  was  the  economy  in 
teamsters,  as  one  man  could  drive  and  tend 
as  many  as  fourteen  animals,  always  guid- 
ing them  with  a single  line.  They  were 
drilled  like  soldiers,  and  were  almost  as 
tractable ; and  when  a teamster  cracked  his 
whip  its  report  was  like  that  of  a revolver. 

The  unusually  large  number  of  wind- 
mills are  suggestive  of  the  preferred  method 


210 


IN  TEE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


of  irrigation  and  of  water  supply.  Notwithstanding*  this,  Stock- 

ton  can  boast  of  having 
© 

THE  DEEPEST  ARTESIAN  WELL  IN  THE  STATE. 

It  is  one  thousand  and  two  feet  deep,  and  throws  out  two 
hundred  and  fifty  gallons  of  water  per  minute,  or  three  hundred 
and  sixty  thousand  gallons  every  twenty -four  hours,  and  to  the 
height  of  nine  feet  above  the  city  grade.  In  sinking  this  well, 
ninety-six  different  strata  of  loam,  clay,  micacious  sand,  soft  green 
sandstone,  gravel,  etc.,  etc.,  were  passed  through.  Three  hundred 
and  forty  feet  from  the  surface,  a stump  of  one  of  the  big  trees 
was  found  imbedded  in  the  sand,  from  whence  a stream  of  water 
issued  to  the  top,  although  not  in  sufficient  quantities  to  afford 
the  supply  desired,  hence  its  continuance  to  the  depth  mentioned. 
The  temperature  of  the  water  was  77°  Fahrenheit. 

The  various  strata  bored  through,  indicate  beyond  question, 
that  not  only  this,  but  nearly  all  other  valleys  were  at  one  time 
inland  lakes,  that  have  been  filled  up  and  formed  by  the  denuda- 
tion and  lowering  of  the  contiguous  mountains,  in  the  unrecorded 
ages  of  the  far  distant  past.  The  siliceous  sediment  constantly 
floating  down  all  our  rivers,  especially  during  high  water,  is  in- 
controvertible proof  that  continuous  denudation  is  still  an  active 
force  in  lowering  mountains,  and  in  forming  valleys. 

It  would  make  our  advent  here  extremely  interesting  could 
we  visit  the  tanneries,  carriage  factories,  agricultural  implement 
manufactories,  canning  establishments,  the  two  flouring  mills, 
woolen  and  paper  mills,  schools,  free  library,  etc.,  not  omitting  the 
State  asylum  for  the  insane,  which  would  be  found  a model  of 
cleanliness  and  good  management.  After  this  brief  outline  of 

O cj 

Stockton  and  its  attractions,  with  your  permission  we  will  now 
resume  our  journey. 

Almost  before  we  are  fairly  seated  in  the  car,  we  shoot  out  from 
the  station  at  Stockton,  leaving  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad, 
and  taking  the  Stockton  and  Copperopolis  Railroad  for  Milton; 
and  as  we  are  rolling  out  from  among  the  tasteful  suburban 
residences  of  the  city,  under  the  gracefully  pendant  white  oaks 


Photo,  by  Geo.  Fiske. 


photo-typo  by  Britton  & rey,  S.  f. 

Nobth  Dome — To-coy-ae.  • 


(See  page  383.) 


THE  CALAVERAS  BIG  TREE  ROUTE, 

From  San  Francisco , via  Lathrop,  Stockton , Milton , Murphy' s,  Calaveras  Big 
Tree  Grove , Sonora , Chinese  Camp,  and  Big  Oak  Flat , to  Yo  Semite  Valley. 

Stations  marked  (a)  are  stopping  places  at  night  for  stage  passengers;  those  marked  ( b ) are 
hotels,  or  where  meals  can  be  had;  those  marked  ( c ) are  where  hay  and  grain  are  obtainable; 
those  marked  {d)  are  stag£  stations. 


Distances  in  Miles. 


STATIONS. 

Between  consecutive 
points 

From  San  Francisco.. 

I From  Yo  Semite  Valley 

1 

1 Altitude,  in  feet,  above 
Sea  Level 

By  Railway. 

I33-05 

From  San  Francisco  to — 

Lathrop,  junction  of  the  Central  Pacific  with  the  Southern  Pa- 
cific Railroad  {be) 

94  03 

94.03 

39.02 

28 

Stockton,  on  Central  Pacific  Railroad  (a  b c) 

9.02 

103.05 

30.00 

29 

Milton,  on  the  Stockton  and  Copperopolis  Railroad  {bed) 

By  Carriage  R oad. 

30.00 

T33-°5 

I52-53 

376 

From  Milton  to — 

Reservoir  House  {be) 

6.13 

6.13 

146.40 

3 ,0 1 3 

Gibson’s  Station  {bed)  ...  

10.87 

17.00 

r35-53 

1.570 

Altaville  (be) 

5-5o 

22  50 

130.03 

1,520 

Murphy’s  {bed) 

7- 5o 

30.00 

I22-53 

2,195 

Half-way  House  {be) 

8.11 

38. n 

114.42 

3.358 

Calaveras  Big  Tree  Grove  Hotel  {abed)  

7-31 

45- 42 

107. 11 

4.730 

Half-way  House,  returning (b  e) 

7-3i 

52-73 

99-  80 

3 358 

Murphy’s {a-b  c d) 

8. 1 1 

60. 84 

91.69 

2,  I 95 

Vallecito  {b  c)  ... 

4.16 

65. 00 

87-53 

1,748 

Trail  to  Natural  Bridge  

3-32 

68. 32 

84.  21 

Parrott’s  Ferry,  Stanislaus  River 

2.27 

70  59 

81 .94 

834 

Gold  Spring 

3-i7 

73-76 

78.77 

2,014 

Columbia  {be) . 

*•<5 

74.91 

77.62 

2,157 

Sonora  (bed) 

4 1 7 

79.08 

73-45 

I,8l6 

Chinese  Camp  (abed)  

1 1. 00 

90.08 

62.  45 

1,2  99 

Priest’s  Hotel — for  full  details  see  “Big  Oak  Flat  Route”  (abed) 

1 2. 1 1 

102. 19 

50-34 

2-558 

Tuolumne  Big  Tree  Grove  

33-43 

135-62 

15.  84 

5,794 

Leidig’s  Hotel,  Yo  Semite  Valley  {abed) :• 

Cook’s  Hotel,  Yo  Semite  Valley  {abed)  

15.84 

151.46 

1.07 

3,851 

0.30 

151.76 

0 77 

Barnard’s  Hotel,  Yo  Semite  Valley  {a  b c d) 

0.77 

I52-53 

RECAPITULATION. 


By  railway 133.05  miles. 

By  carriage  road *52. 53  “ 


285.58  miles. 


Total  distance 


212 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


( Q.  lobata ),  and  past  the  fertile  farms  of  this  portion  of  the  valley 
of  the  San  Joaquin,  a quiet,  gentlemanly  person,  whose  name  is 
Mr.  Robert  Patton,  politely  introduces  himself  to  us  by  inquiring, 
“May  I ask  what  is  your  proposed  destination,  beyond  Milton? 
I am  the  agent  for  the  different  stage  lines  leaving  there  for  all 
the  various  points  beyond.”  Receiving  satisfactory  replies, 
our  names  are  entered  on  the  way-bill;  and,  upon  arrival  at 
Milton,  we  find  a row  of  stages  backed  up  against  the  platform, 
and  awaiting  us;  with  every  coachman  on  his  box,  and  the  reins 
in  his  hand,  ready  for  the  start,  the  moment  Mr.  Patton  gives 
him  the  signal.  As  we  are  supposed,  on  this  occasion,  to  have 
chosen  the  route  via  the  Calaveras  Big  Tree  Groves,  the  agent 
has  seen  that  ourselves  and  baggage  are  safely  placed  upon  the 
Murphy’s  stage,  Murphy’s  being  en  route  for  that  point,  when 
“ All  set  ” is  shouted  to  the  coachman,  and  away  we  go. 

As  every  one  knows,  the  most  desirable  of  all  places  on  a 
stage  coach  is  that  known  as  the  “box-seat.”  This  is  with 
the  coachman;  for,  if  he  is  intelligent,  and  in  a good  humor,  he 
can  tell  you  of  all  the  sights  by  the  way ; with  the  personal  history 
of  nearly  every  man  and  woman  you  may  meet;  the  qualities  and 
“points  ” of  every  horse  upon  the  road;  with  all  the  adventures, 
jokes,  and  other  good  things  he  has  seen  and  heard  during  his 
thousand  and  one  trips,  under  all  kinds  of  circumstances,  and  in 
all  sorts  of  weather.  In  short,  he  is  a living  road-encyclopedia, 
to  be  read  and  studied  at  intervals,  by  the  occupant  of  the  “box- 
seat.” 

You  saw  that  look  and  motion  of  the  coachman’s  head?  That 
was  at  once  a sign  of  recognition  and  of  invitation  to  the  privileged 
seat  at  his  side,  as  we  are  old  acquaintances.  But,  as  you  are  a 
stranger,  and  as  every  excursion  of  real  pleasure — like  the  happiest 
experiences  of  social  life — become  dependent  to  a very  great  ex- 
tent upon  little  courtesies  and  kindnesses,  that  cost  nothing,  we 
will,  if  you  please,  set  the  good  example  of  foregoing  selfishness 
by  trying  to  secure  that  seat  for  you.  No  thanks  are  needed,  as 
every  pleasure  is  doubled  by  being  shared.  Now,  suppose  that 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


213 


you  are  the  occupant  of  the  “ box-seat,”  we  will  make  one  sug- 
gestion— invite  the  driver  to  accept  one  of  your  best  cigars ; and, 
as  its  smoke  and  fragrance  are  rising  on  the  air,  he  will  gradually 
soften  to  you,  and  both  will  become  better  acquainted  before  you 
have  traveled  far. 

There  is  a feeling  of  jovial,  good-humored  pleasurableness  that 
steals  insensibly  over  the  spirit  when  the  secluded  residents  of 
cities  leave  all  the  cares  of  a daily  routine  of  duties  behind,  and 
the  novelty  of  fresh  scenes  forms  new  sources  of  enjoyment. 
Especially  is  it  so  when  seated  comfortably  in  an  easy-going  coach ; 
with  the  prospect  before  us  of  witnessing  many  of  the  most  won- 
derful sights  to  be  found  in  any  country,  either  in  the  Old  or  New 
World;  and,  more  especially,  if  we  have  learned  to  take  a journey, 
as  it  is  said  that  a Frenchman  does  his  dinner,  thereby  enjoying  it 
three  times ; first , in  anticipation ; second,  in  participation ; and 
third,  on  retrospection ! 

For  several  miles  before  arriving  at  Milton,  as  for  two  or 
three  beyond,  the  entire  country  is  covered  with  sedimentary  de- 
posits, and  water-washed  gravel;  and,  as  there  are  no  such  ele- 
mental forces  at  work  in  the  present  day,  they  offer  conjectural 
revelations  of  very  different  conditions  in  the  past,  while  being 
suggestive  of  pertinent  inquiries  for  the  time  and  cause  of  change. 

It  is  over  these,  for  the  most  part  treeless  and  rolling  hills, 
that  our  road  now  lies.  It  is  true  there  is  one  clump  of  white 
post  oaks  (Quercus  Douglasii)  about  half  a mile  from  Milton; 
remarkable  only  for  its  being  the  favorite  resort  of  a species  of 
bird,  somewhat  scarce  in  California,  known  as  the  magpie. 
Leaving  the  gravelly  hills,  we  enter  upon  a graded  road  up  a deep 
ravine,  where  shrubs  and  trees  begin  to  add  an  interest  to  the 
landscape.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  we  reach  the  Reservoir  House 
(so  named  from  a large  reservoir  near,  built  for  mining  purposes), 
where  the  horses  rest,  and  where  both  man  and  beast  take  water, 
(the  former,  occasionally,  something  a little  stronger).  Here  are 
seen  the  first  pine  trees  ( Pinus  Sabiniana ). 

Beyond  this  for  many  miles  the  country  is  gently  undulating, 


214 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


yet  is  sparsely  timbered  with  post  oaks.  At  Gibson’s  Station 
horses  are  exchanged,  and  the  hungry  can  eat.  Five  miles  beyond 
this  we  find  ourselves  at  Altaville ; a sprightly  little  mining  camp, 
in  a gold-mining  district,  where  we  cross  flumes  and  ditches, 
filled  with  water  made  muddy  by  washing  out  the  precious  metal, 
and  where  can  be  witnessed  all  the  modus  operandi  of  gold  min- 
ing. Still  our  course  is  upward  as  well  as  onward,  until  we  are 
over  two  thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  and  at 

THE  MINING  VILLAGE  OF  MURPHY’S. 

Now,  although  the  gold  mines  here  have  been  among  the 
richest,  Murphy’s  was  but  little  known,  beyond  its  more  immediate 
surroundings,  until  the  discovery  of  the  Big  Tree  Groves  of  Cala- 
veras (the  first  of  this  species  ever  found) ; and,  more  recently,  the 
adjacent  remarkable  cave.  Its  proximity  to,  and  the  starting- 
point  for,  the  new  wonders,  lifted  it  into  world-wide  notoriety, 
almost  at  a bound.  It  is  deserving  of  record,  however,  that  the 
discovery  of  those  enormous  trees  must  be  credited,  in  a degree, 
to  the  business  men  of  Murphy’s,  through  whose  enterprise,  in- 
cidentally, they  were  first  seen;  as  the  sequel,  obtained  by  the 
writer  from  the  discoverer  himself,  will  abundantly  show:- — 

HOW  AND  WHEN  THE  BIG  TREES  OF  CALAVERAS  WERE  FIRST  DIS- 
COVERED. 

In  the  spring  of  1852,  Mr.  A.  T.  Dowd,  a hunter,  was  em- 
ployed by  the  Union  Water  Company,  of  Murphy’s,  Calaveras 
County,  to  supply  the  workmen  engaged  in  the  construction  of 
their  canal,  with  fresh  meat,  from  the  large  quantities  of  game 
running  wild  on  the  upper  portion  of  their  works.  While  engaged 
in  this  calling,  having  wounded  a grizzly  bear,  and  while  industri- 
ously pursuing  him,  he  suddenly  came  upon  one  of  those  immense 
trees  that  have  since  become  so  justly  celebrated  throughout  the 
civilized  world.  All  thoughts  of  hunting  were  absorbed  and  lost 
in  the  wonder  and  surprise  inspired  by  the  scene.  “ Surely,”  he 
mused,  “this  must  be  some  curiously  delusive  dream!”  But  the 
great  realities  indubitably  confronting  him  were  convincing 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


21 5 

proof,  beyond  question,  that  they  were  no  mere  fanciful  crea- 
tions of  his  imagination. 

Returning  to  camp,  he  there  related  the  wonders  he  had 
seen,  when  his  companions  laughed  at  him ; and  even  questioned  his 
veracity,  which,  previously,  they  had  considered  to  be  in  every 
way  reliable.  He  affirmed  his  statement  to  be  true ; but  they  still 
thought  it  “too  big  a story”  to  believe,  supposing  that  he  was 
trying  to  perpetrate  upon  them  some  fir st-of- April  joke. 

For  a day  or  two  he  allowed  the  matter  to  rest;  submitting, 
with  chuckling  satisfaction,  to  their  occasional  jocular  allusions 
to  “ his  big  tree  yarn,”  but  continued  hunting  as  formerly.  On 
the  Sunday  morning  ensuing,  he  went  out  early  as  usual,  but 
soon  returned  in  haste,  apparently  excited  by  some  great  event, 
when  he  exclaimed,  “Boys,  I have  killed  the  largest  grizzly  bear 
that  I ever  saw  in  my  life.  While  I am  getting  a little  something 
to  eat,  you  make  every  preparation  for  bringing  him  in;  all  had 
better  go  that  can  possibly  be  spared,  as  their  assistance  will  cer- 
tainly be  needed.” 

As  the  big  tree  story  was  now  almost  forgotten,  or  by  com- 
mon consent  laid  aside  as  a subject  of  conversation;  and,  moreover, 
as  Sunday  was  a leisure  day,  and  one  that  generally  hangs  the 
heaviest  of  the  seven  on  those  who  are  shut  out  from  social  or 
religious  intercourse  with  friends,  as  many  Californians  unfortu- 
nately were  and  still  are,  the  tidings  were  gladly  welcomed,  es- 
pecially as  the  proposition  was  suggestive  of  a day’s  intense 
excitement. 

Nothing  loath,  they  were  soon  ready  for  the  start.  The 
camp  was  almost  deserted.  On,  on  they  hurried,  with  Dowd  as 
their  guide,  through  thickets  and  pine  groves ; crossing  ridges  and 
canons,  flats,  and  ravines,  each  relating  in  turn  the  adventures 
experienced,  or  heard  of  from  companions,  with  grizzly  bears,  and 
other  formidable  tenants  of  the  mountains,  until  their  leader  came 
to  a halt  at  the  foot  of  the  immense  tree  he  had  seen,  and  to  them 
had  represented  the  approximate  size.  Pointing  to  its  extraordi- 
nary diameter  and  lofty  height,  he  exultingly  exclaimed,  “ Now, 


216 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


boys,  do  you  believe  my  big  tree  story?  That  is  the  large  grizzly 
I wanted  you  to  see.  Do  you  now  think  it  a yarn?”  By  this 
ruse  of  their  leader  all  doubt  was  changed  into  certainty,  and 
unbelief  into  amazement;  as,  speechless  with  profound  awe,  their 
admiring  gaze  was  riveted  upon  those  forest  giants. 

But  a short  season  was  allowed  to  elapse  before  the  trumpet- 
tongued  press  proclaimed  abroad  the  wonder;  and  the  intelligent 
and  devout  worshipers,  in  nature  and  science,  flocked  to  the  Big- 
Tree  Groves  of  Calaveras,  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  for  themselves 
the  astounding  marvels  about  which  they  had  heard  so  much.  In 
a subsequent  chapter  will  be  found  full  particulars  concerning  the 
naming,  habits,  characteristics,  and  comparative  area  of  this 
species,  to  which  the  reader  is  referred. 

ROAD  TO  THE  MAMMOTH  TREE  GROVE. 

Leaving  the  mining  village  of  Murphy’s  behind,  we  pass 
through  an  avenue  of  trees;  and,  about  half  a mile  from -town, 
enter  a narrow  canon,  up  which  we  travel,  now  upon  this  side  of 
the  stream,  and  now  on  that,  as  the  hills  proved  favorable  or  other- 
wise, for  the  construction  of  the  road.  If  our  visit  is  supposed  to 
be  in  spring  or  early  summer,  every  mountain-side,  even  to  the 
tops  of  the  ridges,  is  covered  with  flowers  and  flowering  shrubs  of 
great  variety  and  beauty;  while,  on  either  hand,  groves  of  oaks 
and  pines  stand  as  shade-giving  guardians  of  personal  comfort. 

As  we  continue  the  ascent  for  a few  miles  our  course  becomes 
more  undulating  and  gradual ; and,  for  the  most  part  on  the  top  or 
gently  sloping  sides  of  a dividing  ridge;  often  through  dense 
forests  of  tall,  magnificent  pines  that  are  from  one  hundred  and 
seventy,  to  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  height;  slender,  and 
straight  as  an  arrow.  We  measured  one  that  had  fallen,  that 
was  twenty  inches  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  fourteen  and  a 
half  inches  in  diameter  at  the  distance  of  one  hundred  and 
twenty -five  feet  from  the  base.  The  ridges  being  nearly  clear  of 
an  undergrowth  of  shrubbery;  and  the  trunks  of  the  trees,  for 
fifty  feet  upward,  or  more,  entirely  clear  of  branches,  the  eye 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


217 


can  wander,  delightedly,  for  a long  distance,  among  these  capti- 
vating:' scenes  of  the  forest. 

At  different  distances  upon  the  route,  the  canal  of  the  Union 
Water  Company  winds  its  sinuous  way  on,  or  around,  the  sides  of 
the  ridge ; or  its  sparkling  contents  rush  impetuously  down  the 
water-furrowed  center  of  a ravine.  Here  and  there  an  aqueduct, 
or  cabin,  or  saw  mill,  gives  variety  to  ah  ever-changing  landscape. 
When  within  about  four  and  a half  miles  of  the  Mammoth  Tree 
Grove,  the  surrounding  mountain  peaks  and  ridges  are  boldly 
visible.  Looking  southeast,  the  uncovered  head  of  Bald  Mount- 
ain silently  announces  its  solitude  and  distinctiveness;  west,  the 
Coast  Range  of  mountains  forms  a continuous  girdle  to  the 
horizon ; extending  to  the  north  and  east,  where  the  snow-covered 
tops  of  the  Sierras  form  a magnificent  background  to  the  glorious 
picture. 

The  deepening  shadows  of  the  densely  timbered  forest  through 
which  we  are  passing,  by  the  awe  they  inspire,  impressively  in- 
timate that  we  are  soon  to  enter  the  imposing  presence  of  those 
forest  giants,  the  Big  Trees  of  Calaveras,  and  almost  before  we 
realize  our  actual  nearness,  we  catch  the  inviting  gleam  of  the 
Calaveras  Big  Tree  Grove  Hotel.  On  our  way  to  it,  the  carriage 
road  passes  directly  between  the 

TWO  SENTINELS, 

Each  of  which  is  over  three  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  the  larger 
one  of  the  two  is  twenty -three  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base.  But 
as  no  one  can  thoroughly  enjoy  the  wonderful,  or  beautiful,  with 
a tired  body,  or  upon  an  empty  stomach,  let  us,  for  the  present 
at  least,  prefer  the  refreshing  comforts  and  kindly  hospitalities  of 
this  commodious  and  well-kept  inn,  to  a walk  about  the. grove. 

According  to  Capt.  Geo.  M.  Wheeler’s  U.  S.  Geographical 
Survey  Reports,  the  Calaveras  Big  Tree  Grove  Hotel  is  2,535  feet 
above  Murphy’s,  and  4,730  feet  above  sea  level.  It  stands  in 
latitude  38°  north,  and  in  longitude  120°  10'  west  from  Greenwich. 
The  forest  in  which  the  Big  Trees  stand  was  so  densely  timbered 


THE  CALAVERAS  BIG  TREE  GROVE  HOTEL.  Moss  Engraving  Co.,  N.  Y. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


219 


that  many  hundreds  of  trees  had  to  be  cut  down  “ to  let  in  a little 
sunlight”  to  the  hotel  site.  Here,  in  a gently  sloping  declivity, 
or  hollow,  of  the  main  divide,  separating  San  Antonio  Creek  on 
the  north,  and  the  north  fork  of  the  Stanislaus  River  on  the  south 
(two  favorite  trouting  streams),  is  located  this  remarkable  grove. 

After  refreshment  and  rest  we  are  in  better  condition  to 
examine  the  different  objects  of  interest  that  have  attracted  us 
hither.  One  thought,  one  feeling,  one  emotion,  that  of  vastness, 
sublimity,  profoundness,  pervades  the  soul;  for  there,  in  awful 
presence — 

“ The  giant  trees  in  silent  majesty, 

Like  pillars  stand  ’neath  Heaven’s  mighty  dome. 

’T  would  seem  that,  perched  upon  their  topmost  branch, 

With  outstretched  finger,  man  might  touch  the  stars.” 

Within  an  area  of  about  fifty  acres  there  are  ninety -three  trees 
of  large  size,  twenty  of  which  exceed  twenty-five  feet  in  diameter 
at  the  base,  and  will  consequently  average  about  seventy-five  feet 
in  circumference.  These  would  look  still  more  imposing  in  pro- 
portions but  for  the  large  growth  of  sugar  pine  ( Pinus  Lamber- 
tiana),  and  the  yellow  pine  (Pinus  ponder osa).  One  of  the  lat- 
ter to  the  south  westward  of  the  hotel  exceeds  ten  feet  in  diame- 
ter. But  let  us  first  take  a walk  to  the 


BIG  TREE  STUMP. 

This  is  the  stump  of  the  original  Big  Tree  discovered  by  Mr. 
Dowd.  We  can  see  that  it  is  perfectly  smooth,  sound,  and  level. 
Its  diameter  across  the  solid  wood,  after  the  bark  was  removed 
(and  which  was  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  in  thickness),  is 
twenty-five  feet ; although  the  tree  was  cut  off  six  feet  above  the 
ground.  However  incredible  it  may  appear,  on  July  4,  1854,  the 
writer  formed  one  of  a cotillion  party  of  thirty-two  persons,  dancing 
upon  this  stump ; in  addition  to  which  the  musicians  and  lookers- 
on  numbered  seventeen,  making  a total  of  forty-nine  occupants  of 
its  surface  at  one  time ! The  accompanying  sketch  was  made  at 
that  time,  and,  of  course,  before  the  present  pavilion  was  erected 
over  it.  There  is  no  more  strikingly  convincing  proof,  in  any 
grove,  of  the  immense  size  of  the  big  trees,  than  this  stump. 


220 


IN'  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS 


Tli is  tree  was  three  hundred 
and  two  feet  in  height ; and,  at 
the  ground,  ninety-six  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, before  it  was  dis- 
turbed. Some  sacrilegious  van- 
dals, from  the  motive  of  making 
its  exposition  “pay,”  removed 
the  bark  to  the  height  of  thirty 
feet ; and  afterwards  transported 
it  to  England,  where  it  was 
formed  into  a room ; but  was 
afterwards  consumed  by  fire, 
with  the  celebrated  Crystal  Pal- 
ace, at  Kensington,  England. 
This  girdling  of  the  tree  very 
naturally  brought  death  to  it; 
but  even  then  its  majestic  form 
must  have  perpetually  taunted 
the  belittled  and  sordid  spirits 
that  caused  it.  It  is,  however, 
but  an  act  of  justice  to  its  pres- 
ent proprietor,  Mr.  James  L. 
Sperry,  to  state  that,  although 
he  has  been  the  owner  of  the 
grove  for  over  twenty  years,  that 
act  of  vandalism  was  perpe- 
trated before  he  purchased  it,  or 
it  would  never  have  been  per- 
mitted. 

The  next  act  in  this  botanical 
tragedy  was  the  cutting  down 
of  the  tree,  in  order  to  accom- 
modate those  who  wished  to  carry 
home  specimens  of  its  wood,  as 
souvenirs  of  their  visit.  But 
how  to  do  this  was  the  puzzling 


LITE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


221 


conundrum  ! If  one  could  fittingly  imagine  so  ludicrous  a sight 
as  a few  lilliputian  men  attempting  to  chop  down  this  brobding- 
naggian  giant,  his  contempt  would  reach  its  becoming  climax. 
This,  therefore,  was  given  up  as  altogether  too  chimerical  and  im- 
practicable. Finally,  the  plan  was  adopted  of  boring  it  off  with 
pump-augers.  This  employed  five  men  twenty-two  days  to 


BORING  DOWN  THE  ORIGINAL  BIG  TREE  WITH  PUMP-AUGERS. 


accomplish ; and  after  the  stem  was  fairly  severed  from  the  stump, 
the  uprightness  of  its  position,  and  breadth  of  its  base,  prevented 
its  overthrow;  so  that  two  and  a half  of  the  twenty-two  days 
were  spent  in  inserting  wedges,  and  driving  them  into  the  butt  of 
the  tree,  by  logs  suspended  on  ropes,  thereby  to  compel  its  downfall. 
While  these  slow  and  apparently  hopeless  attempts  were  being- 
undertaken,  and  the  workmen  had  retired  for  dinner,  a gust  of 
wind  took  hold  of  its  top,  and  hurled  it  over  without  the  least  seem- 
ing effort ; its  fall  causing  the  earth  to  tremble  as  by  an  earthquake. 
Thus  this  noble  monarch  of  the  forest  was  dethroned,  after  “ brav- 
ing the  battle  and  the  breeze  ” for  nearly  two  thousand  years. 
Verily,  how  little  real  veneration  does  the  average  man  possess. 


.222  m THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS 

THE  PAVILION. 

This  was  erected  over  the  stump  as  a protection  against  the 
elements;  for  use  on  Sundays  in  public  worship;  and  on  week- 
day evenings  for  dancing,  although  I have  heard  ladies  complain 
“ that  there  was  no  ‘ spring  ’ to  that  floor!  ” Theatrical  perform- 
ances and  concerts  have  taken  place  upon  it;  and,  in  1858,  the 
Big  Tree  Bulletin  was  printed  and  published  here. 

Near  to  the  pavilion  and  stump  still  lies  a portion  of  the 
prostrate  trunk  of  this  magnificent  tree.  Of  course  the  butt-end 


Photo  by  J.  C.  Scripture. 


TRUNK  OF  BIG  TREE,  AND  PAVILION. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


223 


of  the  trunk  is  of  the  same  diameter  as  the  stump,  where  the 
auger  marks  make  silent  explanations  of  the  method  used  in  fell- 
ing it. 

WALK  THROUGH  THE  GROVE. 

Now,  if  you  please,  let  us  seek  the  dark  recesses  of  this 
primeval  forest,  in  .spirit  with  uncovered  head  from  reverential 
awe,  feeling  that  we  are  entering  the  stately  presence  of  trees 
that  have  successfully  withstood  the  climatic  changes,  and  storms, 
of  more  than  thirty  centuries.  It  is  true  that  many  of  these 
grand  old  representatives  of  the  dreamy  past  have  been  assailed 
by  fire,  and  still  proudly  bear  the  marks  of  that  resistless  enemy; 
although  the  new  growth  has,  in  many  instances,  sought  to  cover 
up  the  scars,  and  renew  the  vigorous  youth  of  each,  as  much  as 
possible.  So  Nature,  like  a gentle  mother,  neglects  no  opportu- 
nity to  heal  all  wounds;  and,  where  that  is  impossible,  covers  up 
even  deformity  and  decay  with  mosses  or  lichens.  We  can  see 
that  nearly  every  tree  has  a name  (many  most  worthily  given) 
and  an  individuality  of  its  own;  that,  like  human  faces,  are  sug- 
gesth^e  of  conflict  with  hidden  forces,  that  have  inscribed  their 
characteristics  in  every  line;  and  were  we  to  pause  at  every 
one,  and  paint  the  peculiarities  of  each,  I fear  that  it  would 
prove  a somewhat  tedious  task.  If  you  please,  then,  we  will  pass 
to  such  as  are  most  noteworthy. 

Among  these  once  stood  a most  beautiful  tree,  graceful  in 
form,  and  unexcelled  in  proportions;  hence  (as  in  human  experi- 
ences) those  very  qualities  at  once  became  the  most  attractive  to 
the  eyes  of  the  unfeeling  spoliator.  This  bore  the  queenly  name  of 

THE  MOTHER  OF  THE  FOREST. 

In  the  summer  of  1854,  the  bark  was  stripped  from  its  trunk, 
by  a Mr.  George  Gale,  for  purposes  of  exhibition  in  the  East,  to 
the  height  of  one  hundred  and  sixteen  feet.  It  now  measures 
in  circumference,  at  the  base,  without  the  bark,  eighty-four  feet ; 
twenty  feet  from  base,  sixty-nine  feet;  seventy  feet  from  base, 
forty-three  feet  six  inches ; one  hundred  and  sixteen  feet  from  base, 


224 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


and  up  to  the  bark,  thirty -nine  feet  six  inches.  The  full  circum- 
ference at  base,  including  bark,  was  ninety  feet.  Its  height  was 
three  hundred  and  twenty-one  feet.  The  average  thickness  of 
bark  was  eleven  inches,  although  in  places  it  was  about  two  feet. 
This  tree  is  estimated  to  contain  five  hundred  and  thirty-seven 
thousand  feet  of  sound  inch  lumber.  To  the  first  branch  it  is 
one  hundred  and  thirty-seven  feet.  The  small  black  marks  upon 
the  tree  indicate  points  where  two  and  a half  inch  auger  holes 
were  bored,  and  into  these  rounds  were  inserted,  by  which  to  ascend 
and  descend  while  removing  the  bark.  At  different  distances 
upward,  especially  at  the  top,  numerous  dates  and  names  of  visi- 
tors have  been  cut.  It  is  contemplated  to  construct  a circular 
stairway  around  this  tree.  When  the  bark  was  being  removed, 
a young  man  fell  from  the  scaffolding — or,  rather,  out  of  a descend- 
ing noose — at  a distance  of  seventy-nin6  feet  from  the  ground, 
and  escaped  with  a broken  limb.  The  writer  was  within  a few 
yards  of  him  when  he  fell,  and  was  agreeably  surprised  to  dis- 
cover that  he  had  not  broken  his  neck.  The  accompanying 
engraving,  representing  this  once  symmetrical  tree,  is  from  a 
daguerreotype  taken  in  1854,  immediately  after  the  bark  was  re- 
moved, and  correctly  represents  the  foliage  of  this  wonderful 
genus,  ere  the  vandal’s 

‘ ‘ Effacing  fingers 

Had  swept  the  lines  where  beauty  lingers.” 

Now,  alas!  the  noble  Mother  of  the  Forest,”  dismantled  of  her 
once  proud  beauty,  still  stands  boldly  out,  a reproving,  yet  magnif- 
icent ruin.  Even  the  elements  seemed  to  have  sympathized  with 
her,  in  the  unmerited  disgrace,  brought  to  her  by  the  ax ; as  the 
snows  and  storms  of  recent  winters  have  kept  hastening  her  dis- 
memberment, the  sooner  to  cover  up  the  wrong.  But  a short 
distance  from  this  lies  the  prostrate  form  of  one  that  was  probably 
the  tallest  sequoia  that  ever  grew — 

THE  FATHER  OF  THE  FOREST. 

This  tree,  when  standing  in  its  primitive  majesty,  is  accred- 
ited with  exceeding  four  hundred  feet  in  height,  with  a circum- 


‘ 'MOTHER  OF  THE  FOREST” 

(321  feet  in  height,  84  feet  in  circumference,  without  the  bark). 


226 


IN  TIIE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


ference  at  its  base  of  one  hundred  and  ten  feet;  and,  although 
limbless,  without  bark,  and  even  much  of  its  sap  decayed  and 
gone,  has  still  proportions  that  once  could  crown  him  king  of  the 
grove.  In  falling,  it  struck  against  “ Old  Hercules,”  another  old 
time  rival  in  size,  by  which  the  upper  part  of  his  trunk  was  shiv- 
ered into  fragments,  that  were  scattered  in  every  direction.  While 
lire  has  eaten  out  the  heart  of  “ The  Father  of  the  Forest,”  and 
consumed  his  huge  limbs,  as  of  many  others,  the  following  meas- 
urements, recently  taken,  will  prove  that  he  was  among  the  giants 
of  those  days,  and,  that  “even  in  death  still  lives.”  From  the 


Photo  hy  J.  0 Scripture. 

HORSEMAN  EMERGING  FROM  THE  FATHER  OF  THE  FOREST. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


227 


roots,  to  where  the  center  of  the  trunk  can  he  reached  on  horse- 
back, it  is  ninety  feet.  The  distance  that  one  can  ride  erect 
through  it  on  horseback  is  eighty-two  feet  six  inches.  Height  of 
entrance,  nine  feet  four  inches ; of  arch  to  floor,  ten  feet  nine  inches. 
Across  the  roots  it  is  twenty-eight  feet ; to  where  one  would  have 
an  idea  of  standing  to  chop  it  down,  twenty -three  feet  two  inches ; 
ten  feet  from  the  roots  its  diameter  is  twenty  feet  eight  inches ; 
one  hundred  feet  from  roots,  twelve  feet  one  inch ; one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  from  roots,  ten  feet  four  inches,  extreme  length,  to 
where  any  sign  of  top  could  be  found,  three  hundred  and  sixty- 
five  feet. 

But  no  one  can  approximately  realize  the  immense  proportions 
of  this  prostrate  forest  sire,  without  climbing  to  its  top,  and  walk- 
ing down  it  for  its  entire  length ; by  this,  moreover,  he  will  as- 
certain that  it  was  nearly  two  hundred  feet  to  the  first  branch. 
At  the  end  of  the  burnt  cavity  within,  is  a never-failing  spring 
of  deliciously  cool  water.  The  handsome  group  of  stately  trees 
that  encompass  the  “ Father  of  the  Forest,”  make  it  an  imposing 
family  circle;  and  probably  assisted  in  originating  the  name. 

And  this  is  only  one  of  the  numerous  vegetable  giants  that 
Time’s  scythe  has  laid  low,  for,  near  here,  lies ‘‘Old  Hercules,” 
the  largest  standing  tree  in  the  grove  until  1862,  then  being 
three  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  in  height,  by  ninety-five 
feet  in  circumference,  at  the  ground;  this  was  blown  down  that 
year  during  a heavy  storm;  “The  Miner’s  Cabin,”  three  hundred 
and  nineteen  feet  long  by  twenty-one  in  diameter,  thrown  over 
by  a gale,  in  1860;  and  “ The  Fallen  Monarch,”  which  has  prob- 
ably been  down  for  centuries. 

THE  LIVING  AND  REPRESENTATIVE  TREES  IN  THE  CALAVERAS  GROVE 

Consist  of  ten  that  are  each  thirty  feet  in  diameter,  and  over 
seventy  that  measure  from  fifteen  to  thirty  feet,  at  the  ground. 
Were  we  to  linger  at  the  foot  of  every  one,  and  indulge  in 
the  portrayal  of  all  the  characteristics,  size,  and  peculiarities  of 
each,  fascinating  as  they  are  when  in  their  immediate  presence, 


IN  TIIE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


228 

they  would  detain  us  too  long  from  other  scenes,  and  some 
that  are  especially  inviting  our  attention ; such,  for  instance,  as 

THE  SOUTH  GKOVE. 

This  stands  about  six  miles  southeasterly  from  the  Calaveras 
Grove,  and  is,  without  doubt,  the  most  extensive  of  any  within 
the  ordinary  range  of  tourist  travel ; as  it  contains  one  thousand 
three  hundred  and  eighty  Sequoias , ranging  from  one  foot  to 
thirty-four  feet  in  diameter,  and  as  the  route  thither  is  extremely 
picturesque,  as  well  as  varied  and  interesting,  let  us  pay  it  a visit. 

Threading  our  way  through  a luxuriant  growth  of  forest 
trees,  with  here  and  there  a long  vista,  which  conducts  the  eye  to 
scenes  beyond,  and  gives  grateful  leafy  shadows,  and  occasional 
patches  of  sunlight  on  our  path,  about  a mile  from  the  hotel  we 
reach  the  top  of  the  Divide  separating  the  Calaveras  Grove  from 
the  north  fork  of  the  Stanislaus  River.  Here  a remarkably  fine 
view  of  the  Sierras  is  obtained,  one  of  whose  peaks,  the  ‘ 4 Darda- 
nelles,” is  twelve  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  sea  level.  By 
an  easy  trail,  with  all  sorts  of  attractive  turnings  upon  it,  the 
north  fork  of  the  Stanislaus  River  is  crossed.  This  is  the  divid- 
ing: line  between  Calaveras  and  Tuolumne  Counties,  giving:  the 
South  Grove  to  the  latter  county.  This  river,  from  the  bridge, 
is  a gem  of  beauty.  Now  we  wind  up  to  the  summit  of  the 
Beaver  Creek  Ridge,  and  soon  descend  again  to  Beaver  Creek 
(where  the  trout-fishing  is  excellent) ; and  from  this  point  wend 
our  way  to  the  lower  end  of  the  grove.  Here  the  altitude  above 
sea  level  is  four  thousand  six  hundred  and  thirty-five  feet,  and 
the  upper  end,  four  thousand  eight  hundred  and  twenty  feet. 

The  large  number  of  these  immense  trees,  from  thirty  feet  to 
over  one  hundred  feet  in  circumference,  at  the  ground,  and  in 
almost  every  position  and  condition,  would  become  almost  bewil- 
dering were  I to  present  in  detail  each  and  every  one ; a few  nota- 
ble examples  therefore,  will  suffice,  as  representatives  of  the  whole. 

The  first  big  tree  that  attracts  our  attention,  and  which  is 
seen  from  the  ridge  north  of  the  Stanislaus  River,  is  the  44  Colum- 
bus,” a magnificent  specimen,  with  three  main  divisions  in  its 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


22(J 


branches;  and  standing  alone.  Passing  this  we  soon  enter  the 
lower  end  of  the  South  Grove,  and  arrive  at  the  “ New  York,” 
one  hundred  and  four  feet  in  circumference,  and  over  three  hun- 
dred feet  in  height.  Near  to  this  is  the  “ Correspondent,”  a tree 
of  stately  proportions,  named  in  honor  of  the  “ Knights  of  the 
Quill.”  The  “Ohio”  measures  one  hundred  and  three  feet,  and 
is  three  hundred  and  eleven  feet  in  height.  The  “ Massachusetts  ” 
is  ninety-eight  feet,  with  an  altitude  of  three  hundred  and  seven. 

Near  to  a large  black  stump,  above  this,  stands  a tree  that  is 
seventy-six  feet  in  circumference,  that  has  been  struck  by  light- 
ning, one  hundred  and  seventy  feet  from  its  base ; where  its  top  was 
shivered  into  fragments,  and  hurled  in  all  directions  for  over  a 
hundred  feet  from  the  tree ; the  main  stem  being  rent  from  top  to 
bottom,  the  apex  of  this  dismantled  trunk  being  twelve  feet  in 
diameter.  The  “ Grand  Hotel  ” is  burned  out  so  badly  that  noth- 
ing but  a mere  living  shell  is  left.  This  will  hold  forty  persons. 
Then  comes  the  “Canal  Boat;”  which,  as  its  name  implies,  is  a 
prostrate  tree;  the  upper  side  and  heart  of  which  have  been  burned 
away,  so  that  the  remaining  portion  resembles  a huge  boat ; in  the 
bottom  of  which  thousands  of  young  big  trees  have  started  out  in 
life ; and,  if  no  accident  befalls  them,  in  a thousand  or  two  years 
hence,  they  may  be  respectable-sized  trees,  that  can  worthily  take 
the  places  of  the  present  representatives  of  this  noble  genus,  and, 
like  these,  challenge  the  admiring  awe  of  the  intellectual  giants  of 
that  day  and  age. 

“ Noah’s  Ark  ” was  another  prostrate  shell  that  was  hollow 
for  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet;  through  which,  for  sixty  feet, 
three  horsemen  could  ride  abreast;  but  the  snows  of  recent  win- 
ters have  broken  in  its  roof,  and  blocked  all  further  passage  down 
it.  Next  comes  the  “ Tree  of  Refuge,”  where,  during  one  severe 
winter,  sixteen  cattle  took  shelter;  but  subsequently  perished  from 
starvation.  They  found  protection  from  the  storm,  but  their 
bleaching  bones  told  the  sad  tale  of  their  sufferings  and  death 
from  lack  of  food.  Near  to  this  lies  “ Old  Goliah ,”  the  largest 
decumbent  tree  in  the  grove;  whose  circumference  was  over  one 


230 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


On  account  of  its  having  been  the  chosen  residence  of  a trapper 
and  old  mountaineer  named  A.  J.  Smith — Andrew  Jackson 
Smith — who  made  the  charred  hollow  of  this  burnt-out  tree  his 
lonely  home  for  three  years.  There  is  no  telling  what  these  old 
denizens  of  the  mountains  can  or  will  do  when  they  have  made 
up  their  minds  to  anything.  The  diameter  of  his  cabin — which 


hundred  feet,  and,  when  erect,  was  of  proportionate  height  to  the 
tallest.  During  the  gale  that  prostrated  “ Hercules,”  in  the  Cala- 
veras Grove,  this  grand  old  tree  had  also  to  succumb.  One  of  his 
stalwart  limbs  was  eleven  feet  in  diameter. 

There  is  another  notable  specimen,  which  somewhat  forms 
a sequel  to  the  above,  known  as 


Photo  by  J.  C.  Scripture. 


SMITH  S CABIN, 


THE  TO  SEMITE  TALLEY. 


231 


was  to  him  a bedroom,  sitting  room,  kitchen,  and,  sometimes, 
during  stormy  weather,  a stable  for  his  horse — was  twenty -one 
feet  by  sixteen.  Being  one  of  the  tallest,  and  consequently  one 
of  the  most  exposed,  whenever  the  wind  was  upon  one  of  its 
“ high  jinks,”  it  seemed  to  take  especial  delight  in  playing,  wan- 
tonly, with  the  top  of  this  tree , so  as  to  make  it  creak  and  tremble 
from  stem  to  stern — not  that  it  had  any  particular  spite  against 
its  tenant — yet,  upon  such  occasions,  Smith  would  listen  to  its 
ominous  music  with  a somewhat  foreboding  watchfulness,  lest  these 
pranks  should  be  carried  too  far,  and  thus  endanger  his  personal 
safety,  as  well  as  comfort.  On  one  occasion  a regular  “ south- 
easter ” was  on  the  rampage,  hurling  down  trees,  twisting  off 
branches,  tossing  about  tree-tops,  and  limbs,  in  all  directions.  As 
the  old  trapper  dare  not  venture  out,  he  sat  listening,  with  un- 
questionable interest,  to  ascertain  whether  the  wind  or  “ Smith’s 
Cabin  ” was  becoming  the  better  wrestler  of  the  two.  At  this 
juncture,  an  earth-trembling  crash  came  with  nerve-testing  force, 
that  made  his  hair  to  stand  on  end,  when  he  jumped  to  his  feet, 
using  certain  empathic  words  (the  synonyms  of  which  can  be 
found  in  “holy  writ,”  or  elsewhere),  thinking,  as  he  afterwards 
expressed  it,  “that  it  was  all  u-p  with  him.”  As  this  was  the 
downfall  of  “ Old  Goliah,”  he  began  to  fear  that  old  Boreas 
was  getting  the  best  of  the  match,  if  he  did  not  claim  the  gate- 
mone}7,  and  that  “ Smith’s  Cabin  ” would  be  the  next  giant  thrown. 
But,  being  a brave  man — and  who  could  live  such  a life  as  his  if 
he  were  not? — and  knowing  well  that  he  could  not  do  better,  con- 
cluded to  look  this  danger  unquailingly  in  the  face,  as  he  had 
done  many  a one  before  it;  stay  where  he  was,  and  take  the  best, 
or  worst,  that  might  befall  him.  This  proved  Mr.  A.  J.  Smith 
to  be  not  only  a hermit-trapper,  but  a philosopher  as  well.  I am 
glad  to  say  that  this  hero  still  lives,  and  makes  himself  both  use- 
ful and  entertaining,  by  acting  as  guide  between  the  Calaveras 
and  South  Park  Groves,  and  it  would  be  difficult  to  find  one  more 
careful  or  more  obliging. 

“ Adam  ” and  " Eve  ” we  did  not  see,  but  were  assured  that 


232 


m THE  HEART  OF  the  sierras. 


the  former  has  a circumference  of  one  hundred  and  three  feet ; and 
that  the  latter  was  a fitting  helpmate  to  Adam,  at  least  in  cor- 
relative magnitude,  with  breast-like  protuberances  seven  feet  in 
diameter,  at  an  altitude  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  from  the 
ground. 

Before  taking  leave  of  the  South  Grove,  it  may  be  well  to 
mention,  that  it  is  three  and  a half  miles  in  length,  situated  in 
a beautifully  formed,  valley-like  hollow,  that  not  only  contain 
the  number  of  ‘'big  trees”  already  mentioned,  but,  like  the  Cala- 
veras Grove,  has  magnificent  colonnades  of  other  trees,  such  as 
the  sugar  pine  (Firms  Lambertiana) ; the  two  yellow  pines 
(Finns  ponder osa  and  F.  Jeffreyi);  three  silver  firs  ( Abies  con- 
color , A.  grandis  and  A.  nobilis);  the  red  spruce  (A.  Bouglasi); 
the  cedar  ( Libocedrus  decurrens),  with  other  genera;  and  an 
almost  endless  variety  of  beautiful  shrubs  and  flowers.  Indeed, 
there  is  a richly  supplied  banquet,  as  endless  in  variety  as  it  is 
unique  in  loveliness  and  grandeur,  upon  which  appreciative  minds 
can  feast  the  whole  of  the  ride.  Upon  the  return  a glimpse  can 
be  had,  westwardly,  of  the  Basaltic  Cliff;  and  which  forms  the 
destination  of  one  of  the  many  enjoyable  rides  from  the  hotel. 

As  we  must  soon  bid  a pleasant  adieu  to  the  Calaveras 
Groves,  before  saying  our  parting  “good-by,”  it  may  be  well  to 
state  that  the  “ Calaveras  ” and  “ South  Groves  ” are  both  owned 
by  Mr.  James  L.  Sperry,  who  is  also  the  proprietor  and  landlord 
of  the  Calaveras  Grove  Hotel ; and  who  has  the  good  fortune  of 
uniting;  the  attentive  considerations  of  “ mine  host,”  with  the  in- 
tuitive  qualities  of  a gentleman — not  always  met  with  when 
traveling.  And,  for  the  information  of  the  public,  I most  unre- 
servedly state  that  here  will  be  found  a good  table,  cleanly  accom- 
modations, polite  service,  and  reasonable  charges;  to  which  I 
deem  it  my  duty  to  add,  that  the  air  is  pure  and  invigorating ; 
the  climate  exhilarating  and  renewing ; and  the  trout-fishing  in 
adjacent  streams  most  excellent.  Months  should  be  spent  here 
instead  of  a few  brief  hours,  or  days. 

Now,  if  you  please,  in  the  quiet  of  the  evening,  we  will 


THE  10  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


233 

return  to  Murphy’s;  and,  after  we  have  had  a good  dinner,  and  a 
brief  rest,  will  visit 

THE  NEWLY-DISCOVERED  CAVE. 

This,  believe  me,  is  one  of  the  greatest  natural  curiosities  of 
this  section.  It  is  situated  about  a mile  from  town,  and  can  be 
reached  either  by  carriage  or  afoot ; and,  moreover,  can  be  seen  as 
well  by  night  as  by  day. 

The  moment  it  is  entered,  intense  darkness  envelops  you 
like  a mantle;  so  that  even  the  candles,  carried  by  visitors,  seem 
barely  sufficient  to  more  than  “make  darkness  visible.”  Soon, 
however,  the  eyes  become  adjusted  to  the  circumstances,  and 
objects  become  more  or  less  recognized,  although  indistinctly  at 
first,  then  to  reveal  themselves  more  clearly  to  our  astonished 
gaze. 

The  first  chamber  reached  is  about  two  hundred  feet  from 
side  to  side,  its  roof  stretching  far  upward  into  semi-darkness 
some  seventy  or  eighty  feet;  and,  like  the  side  wall,  is  slightly 
curvilinear  in  form,  and  at  an  angle  of  about  50°.  Its  uneven 
sides  are  partially  covered  with  grotesquely  formed  stalactites,  in 
masses,  closely  resembling  white  fungus.  Some  hang  pendent, 
like  icicles  that  have  run  into  each  other,  and  broadened  as  they 
formed;  yet  are  suspended,  in  some  instances,  by  a slender,  tape- 
like stem,  that  one  would  expect  to  be  broken  almost  by  a breath. 
From  among  the  seams  of  the  rock  overhead  hang  slender 
bunches  of  dark  chocolate-colored  moss,  that  are  from  ten  to 
sixteen  feet  in  length. 

Proceeding  downwards,  the  sides  of  the  chamber  resemble 
the  folds  of  massive  curtains,  the  edges  or  binding  of  which  are, 
in  appearance,  very  closely  akin  to  the  delicate  white  coral  of  the 
South  Seas.  Here  and  there  are  stalagmites  that  appear  like 
inverted  icicles,  somewhat  discolored,  from  a few  inches  to  over 
seven  feet  in  height,  and  from  three  inches  to  two  feet  in  diame- 
ter. In  one  spot  stand  “ The  Cherubim,”  united  by  a ligature 
like  the  once  celebrated  Siamese  Twins.  These  are  about  three 
feet  in  width  by  four  in  height,  white  as  alabaster,  and  glistening 
with  frost-like  crystals. 


234 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


Still  descending,  one  threads  his  way  among  narrow  corridors 
and  chambers,  the  walls  of  which  are  draped  with  coral-like 
ornaments  of  many  beautiful  patterns,  until  he  reaches  “ The 
Angels’  Wings.”  These  are  some  eight  feet  in  length  by  three  in 
breadth,  while  not  exceeding  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  and 
which  are  seemingly  cemented  to  the  nearly  vertical  wall  of  the 
chamber.  From  top  to  bottom  of  these  “ wings,”  are  numer- 
ous irregular  bands,  about  one  and  a half  inches  broad,  and  of 
various  tints  of  pink;  which  show  to  great  advantage  when 
a light  is  placed  at  the  back  of  these  translucent,  wavy  sheets. 
When  gently  touched — and  they  should  be  gently  touched,  if  at 
all — they  give  forth  sweetly  musical  notes  that  resound  weirdly 
through  those  silent  halls  of  darkness.  Nature,  as  though  in- 
tending the  protection  of  these  delicate  forms  from  vandal  hands, 
has  surrounded  them  with  stone  icicles. 

Other  portions  of  the  walls,  especially  near  the  roof-ceiling 
(if  so  it  may  be  called),  have  the  appearance  of  an  inverted  forest 
of  young  pines,  that,  having  been  dwarfed  in  their  growth,  were 
afterwards  turned  into  stone.  Still  others  resemble  moss,  lichens, 
or  dead  trees  in  miniature.  Occasionally  the  entire  side  wall  has 
a resemblance  to  sugar  frosting,  which  is  sufficiently  delusive  to 
the  eye  for  tempting  children  to  wish  for  a piece  of  it  to  eat ! 

The  lowest  chamber,  two  hundred  and  twenty-six  feet  below 
the  entrance,  is  the  most  singular  and  beautiful  of  all.  If  imag- 
ination  for  a moment  could  come  to  our  assistance,  and  picture 
the  most  exquisitely  delicate  of  coral,  arranged  in  beautiful  tufts, 
and  masses,  the  entire  surface  covered  with  silvery  hoar  frost, 
and  that  surface  extending  up  a wall  over  thirty  feet  in  height, 
we  could  obtain  some  approximating  idea  of  this  gorgeous  specta- 
cle. There  is  no  language  that  can  approximately  portray  this 
fairy-like  creation  of  some  chemical  genii  for  the  simple  reason 
that  it  is  utterly  indescribable. 

Specimens  of  human  remains,  and  those  of  other  animals, 
have  been  exhumed  from  this  cave,  some  of  which  were  imbedded 
in  the  alabaster  formation. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


STILL  ANOTHER  CAVE 

Exists  seven  miles  north  of  Murphy’s,  and  which  is  probably  in  the 
same  belt  of  limestone.  This  is  on  “ McKinney’s  Humbug  Creek” 
(what  a name!),  a tributary  of  the  Calaveras  River.  As  you 
enter,  the  walls  are  dark,  rough,  and  solid,  rather  than  beautiful; 
but  you  are  soon  ushered  into  a chamber,  the  roof  of  which  is 
for  some  time  invisible  in  the  darkness,  but  where  the  whole  for- 
mation has  a resemblance  to  a vast  cataract  of  waters,  rushing 
from  some  inconceivable  height  in  one  broad  sheet  of  foam. 

Descending  through  a small  opening,  we  enter  a room  beau- 
tifully ornamented  with  pendants  from  the  roof,  white  as  the 
whitest  feldspar,  and  of  every  possible  form.  Some,  like  gar- 
ments hung  in  a wardrobe,  every  fold  and  seam  complete;  others, 
like  curtains;  with  portions  of  columns,  half-way  to  the  floor, 
fluted  and  scalloped  for  unknown  purposes;  while  innumerable 
spear-shaped  stalactites,  of  different  sizes  and  lengths,  hang  from 
all  parts,  giving  a beauty  and  splendor  to  the  whole  appearance 


VIEW  OF  THE  BRIDAL  CHAMBER,. 

16 


236 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


surpassing  description.  Once,  as  the  light  was  borne  up  along  a 
glorious  fairy  stairway,  and  back  behind  solid  pillars  of  clear 
deposits,  and  the  reflected  rays  glanced  through  the  myriads  of 
varying  forms,  the  whole — pillars,  curtains,  pendants,  and  carved 
work,  white  as  snow,  and  translucent  as  crystal — glistened,  and 
shone,  and  sparkled  with  a glory  that  surpassed  in  splendor  all 
that  we  had  seen  in  art,  or  read  in  fable.  This  is  called 

THE  BRIDAL  CHAMBER. 

Immediately  at  the  back  of  this,  and  yet  connected  with  it 
by  different  openings,  is  another  room  that  has  been,  not  inappro- 
priately, named  “ The  Musical  Hall.”  On  one  side  of  this  is  sus- 
pended a singular  mass,  that  resembles  a musical  sounding-board, 
from  which  hang  numerous  stalactites,  arranged  on  a graduated 
scale  iike  the  pipes  of  an  organ ; and  if  these  are  gently  touched 
by  a skilled  musician’s  hand,  will  bring  out  the  sweetest  and  rich- 
est of  notes,  from  deep  base  to  high  treble. 

FROM  MURPHY’S  TO  CHINESE  CAMP. 

If  time  would  permit,  it  would  well  repay  us,  before  leaving 
Murphy’s,  to  visit  the  productive  gold  mines  of  Central  Hill  and 
Oro  Plata ; see  the  deep  excavations  made  between  the  fissure-like 
formations  of  the  limestone  here,  for  the  purpose  of  extracting  the 
gravel  therefrom,  which  contains  the  precious  metal;  or,  to  watch 
the  various  processes  used  in  separating  the  gold  from  the  gravel 
and  pay  dirt;  but,  as  the  stage  leaves  at  7 o’clock  A.  M.,  this  will 
be  impossible,  unless  we  decide  to  remain  behind  for  a day  or  two 
for  that  purpose. 

It  may  be  interesting  for  the  stranger  to  know  that  after 
leaving  Murphy’s,  our  course,  for  nearly  thirty  miles,  is  sub- 
stantially over  the  bed  of  an  ancient  river,  that  once  ran  parallel 
with  the  main  chain  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains.  There  is 
no  telling  how  much  this  stream  could  reveal  to  us  if  it  had  the 
power,  inasmuch  as  the  fossil  remains  of  mastodons,  mammoths, 
and  other  animals  have  been  found  here.  The  late  Dr.  Snell,  of 
Sonora,  had  several  hundred  specimens  of  these.  Then,  gold  in 


TEE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY.  237 

fabulous  quantities  has  been  taken  from  among  the  bowlders  and 
gravel  forming  the  under-stratum  of  this  stream.  In  1853  the 
writer  saw  a nugget  of  solid  gold  extracted  near  Yallecito,  four 
miles  from  Murphy’s,  that  was  shaped  like  a beef’s  kidney,  and 
weighed  twenty-six  pounds. 

But  soon  after  leaving  Yallecito,  our  course  winds  down 
among  the  hills  to  Cayote  Creek,  upon  which,  about  five  hundred 
yards  below  the  road,  are  two 

NATURAL  BRIDGES, 

Beneath  which  all  the  waters  of  the  creek  make  their  exit. 
The  upper  side  of  the  upper  natural  bridge  to  its  arch  is  thirty- 
two  feet,  and  the  breadth  of  the  arch,  twenty-five  feet ; but  as  we 
walk  beneath  it,  the  height  increases  to  fifty  feet,  and  the  breadth 


THE  UPPER  SIDE  OF  UPPER  NATURAL  BRIDGE. 


238 


IN  THE  HEART  OE  THE  SIERRAS. 


to  forty.  The  roof  reminds  one  of  the  vaulted  arches  of  some  old 
cathedral,  supported  by  innumerable  columns.  The  sides  in  places 
are  suggestive  of  the  flowing  of  a stream  whose  waters  had  sud- 

oo  o 

denly  turned  to  ice;  and  in  others  to  urns  and  basins;  all  formed' 
by  the  action  of  water,  by  which  they  are  filled  to  the  brim. 
The  distance  from  the  upper  to  the  lower  end  of  this  bridge  is 
two  hundred  and  seventy  feet. 

About  half  a mile  below  the  lower  side  of  the  upper  bridge, 


THE  UPPER  SIDE  OF  LOWER  NATURAL  BRIDGE. 


there  is  another  that  is  equally  singular  and  grotesque.  One 
spot  beneath  the  roof  and  supporting  walls  presents  the  appear- 
ance of  a beautifully  worked  rotunda,  sixty  feet  in  width,  with  a 
height  of  fifteen.  It  would  be  impossible  to  fully  describe  the 
many  wonderful  forms  that  ornament  the  arches  and  walls  of 
these  bridges ; but  as  they  are  of  the  same  general  character  as 
the  cave,  imagination  can  readily  fill  out  the  picture. 

Soon  we  reach  Parrot’s  Ferry  at  the  Stanislaus  River,  where 
we  find  a kindly-hearted  old  hermit,  after  whom  the  ferry  is. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


239 


named,  who  takes  us  safely  across.  This  stream,  transversely 
crossing  the  general  trend  of  the  ancient  river,  has  cut  the  old  bed 
away,  and  formed  a channel  through  it  nearly  one  thousand  feet  in 
depth;  but,  when  we  have  ascended  the  hill,  we  are  again  upon  its 
course. 

The  auriferous  treasures  that  were  there  found,  stimulated  the 
effort  and  rewarded  the  energy  of  many  thousands  of  miners,  and 
the  thriving  settlements  of  Gold  Spring  (a  bounteous  spring  hav- 
ing here  supplied  water  for  washing  out  the  gold),  Columbia, 
Springfield  (where  another  spring  gushes  out),  Shaw’s  Flat,  Sonora, 
Jamestown,  and  others  sprang  into  life.  It  is  no  exaggeration  to 
say  that,  within  a radius  of  eight  miles,  not  less  than  ten  thousand 
miners  found  employment  in  unearthing  the  precious  metal,  from 
1849  to  1854.  And  although  it  was  supposed  by  many  that  these 
diggings  were  long  since  “ all  worked  out,”  a population  still 
numbering  thousands  obtains  profitable  returns  from  it,  directly 
or  indirectly.  But  while  we  have  been  talking,  we  find  ourselves 
passing  down  the  main  street  of  one  of  the  prettiest  mining  towns 
in  California,  euphoniously  named 

SONORA. 

I like  Sonora,  and  like  and  believe  in  its  wide-awake,  ener- 
getic, and  large-hearted  people ; with  whom  I frankly  confess  to 
feel  most  thoroughly  at  home.  And  if  time  only  permitted,  I 
should  desire  to  introduce  them,  personally;  knowing  that  you 
would  be  gratified  and  honored  with  their  acquaintance.  As  this, 
however,  is  impracticable,  I cannot  forego  the  opportunity  of  say- 
ing, that  Sonora  is  not  only  the  county  seat  of  Tuolumne  County, 
but  is  .still  the  center  of  a rich  mining  district.  Only  a few  years 
ago  the  “ Piety  Hill  ” ledge  (since  named  the  “ Bonanza  Mine”), 
alone,  vielded  over  half  a ton  of  gold  in  a single  week ; and  this 
is  only  one  of  many  claims  still  profitably  worked.  Wood’s  Creek, 
upon  which  Sonora  and  other  towns  are  located,  has  produced 
more  gold,  for  its  length,  than  almost  any  other  stream  on  the 
Pacific  Coast;  and  it  is  questionable  if  any  mule  team  in  existence 


240 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


could  haul  away  at  a single  load  all  the  precious  metal  that  has 
been  taken  from  these  rich  mines.  Nor  is  gold  the  only  product, 
by  any  means;  inasmuch  as  the  very  finest  of  fruit,  and  that  in 
untold  abundance,  is  grown  here;  with  all  kinds  of  vegetables, 
and  cereals.  Its  altitude,  as  given  by  the  Wheeler  TJ.  S.  Survey, 
is,  at  the  post-office,  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  sixteen  feet 
above  sea  level. 

As  the  climate  is  temperate,  health}7,  and  exceedingly  invigorat- 
ing ; its  people  kindly-natured  and  enterprising ; the  gold  mines  and 
mining  interests  instructive  to  the  student,  and  diverting  to  the 
invalid,  with  abundant  educational  advantages  provided  for  the 
young,  there  can  exist  but  little  doubt  that  the  entire  section,  in 
and  around  Sonora,  at  a very  early  day,  will  become  not  only  a 
favorite  place  to  visit,  but  whereon  to  found  permanent  homes. 

A few  miles  above  Sonora,  upon  or  near  the  great  highway 
which  here  crosses  the  main  chain  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Moun- 
tains, are  several  very  productive  gold-bearing  quartz  ledges,  that 
give  profitable  employment  to  hundreds  of  men,  and  yield  rich 
returns  of  the  precious  metal  to  their  fortunate  owners. 

Upon  our  departure  from  this  prosperous  town,  we  follow  the 
course  of  Wood’s  Creek,  past  .suburban  residences  and  gardens, 
machine  shops  and  foundries,  flouring  mills  and  quartz  mills, 
orchards  and  vineyards ; down  to  the  once  famous  mining  camp  of 
Jamestown  (affectionately  called  by  old  residents  “ Jim  town” — 
consult  Bret  Harte  and  Prentice  Mulford  on  this) ; and  as  we  now 
drive  through  its  principal  street,  and  revert  to  its  exciting  past, 
it  requires  quite  an  effort  to  overcome  the  sadness  which  the  con- 
trast inspires,  and  which,  uninvitedly,  prompts  the  soliloquy,  sic 
transit  gloria  mundi.  Still,  there  is  more  or  less  prosperity  lin- 
gering here,  owing  to  its  proximity  to  the  gold  mines  of  Poverty 
Hill,  Quartz  Mountain,  and  others.  From  Jamestown,  through 
Montezuma,  to  Chinese  Camp,  evidences  are  abundant  that  this 
extensive  district  was  once  thronged  to  overflowing  with  miners, 
and  full  to  the  brim  with  mining  life.  But  as  we  are  now  in 
Chinese  Camp,  and  our  route  here  intersects  with  the  Milton  and 
Big  Oak  Flat,  our  course  hence  will  be  outlined  in  a future  chapter. 


0 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

THE  BIG  TREES  IN  GENERAL. 

Their  age  unknown,  into  what  depths  of  time 
Might  Fancy  wander  sportively,  and  deem 
Some  Monarch-Father  of  this  grove  set  forth 
His  tiny  shoot,  when  the  primeval  flood 
Receded  from  the  old  and  changed  earth. 

— Mrs.  S.  C.  Connor’s  Legend  of  California. 

The  whole  creation  is  a mystery. 

— Sir  Thomas  Browne’s  Religio  Medici. 

Our  best  impressions  of  grand  or  beautiful  sights  are  always  enhanced  by 
their  communication  to  sympathetic  and  appreciative  minds. 

— Abel  Stevens’  Life  of  Madame  de  Stael , Chap.  XXII. 

As  four  different  routes  to  theYo  Semite  Valley  pass  through, 
or  near,  one  or  other  of  the  Big  Tree  Groves;  and  inasmuch  as 
all  who  are  fond  of  botanical  studies  would  like  to  consider  the 
peculiarities  of  this  interesting  genus,  I have  thought  that  it 
would  probably  be  most  acceptable  to  devote  this  chapter  exclu- 
sively to  their  discussion. 

As  stated  in  the  preceding  chapter,  it  is  to  Mr.  A.  T.  Dowd, 
a hunter,  to  whom  the  honor  is  due  of  discovering  this  remarkable 
species,  in  1852.  Shortly  after  their  discovery  was  made  known, 
the  California  Academy  of  Sciences  of  San  Francisco  obtained 
and  transmitted  illustrative  specimens  of  its  cones  and  foliage 
to  Prof.  Asa  Gray,  of  Cambridge,  Massachusetts;  and  to  Dr. 
John  Torrey,  of  Columbia  College,  New  York;  but  these  were 
lost  on  the  voyage.  The  next  year  Mr.  William  Lobb,  an  English 
botanist,  was  sent  to  California,  by  Mr.  James  Yeitch,  of  the  Royal 
Exotic  Nurser}^,  Chelsea,  England,  as  a collector  of  plants;  who 

(241) 


242 


IN  TIIJE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


CONE  AND  FOLIAGE  OF  THE  BIG  TREES — ORDINARY  SIZE. 


forwarded  specimens  of  the  seeds,  cones,  and  foliage  of  the  Big- 
Trees,  to  the  firm  he  represented;  who  placed  them  in  the  hands  of 
the  eminent  English  botanist,  Dr.  Lindley,  for  examination  and 
classification.  As  Dr.  Lindley  was  the  first  to  describe  them  (in 
the  Gardener’s  Chronicle  of  December  24,  1853),  thinking  it 
a new  genus,  he  named  it  Wellingtonia  gigantea , after  His 
Grace  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  then  recently  deceased.  Apart 
from  the  questionable  taste  of  naming  a purely  American  tree, 
discovered  by  an  American,  after  an  English  nobleman,  however 
exalted  he  might  deservedly  be  in  the  estimation  of  his  country- 


TIIE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


243 


men,  subsequent  closer  analysis  proved 
that  it  belonged  to  a genus  already 
classified,  and  named,  by  the  famous 
botanist,  Endlicher,  and  known  as  the 
Redwood,  Sequoia  sempervirens  (the 
Taxoclium  sempervirens  of  Lambert). 
The  generic  similarity  between  the  Big 
Tree  and  the  Redwood  determines  them 


2 1 


No.  1 represents  the  cone  of  the  Sequoia  gigan-  No.  1 represents  the  male 

tea,  and  No.  2 that  of  the  Sequoia  sempervirens.  flower  of  the  Sequoia  gigan- 

Natural  size.*  tea,  and  No.  2 that  of  the 

Sequoia  sempervirens.  Nat- 
ural size.* 


to  belong  to  the  same  genus,  Sequoia.  Outside  of  England,  there- 
fore, the  Big  Tree  is  now  known  as  the  Sequoia  gigantea ; that 
and  the  Sequoia  sempervirens  being  the  only  representatives  of 
the  genus,  the  flowers  and  cones  of  which  differ  in  nothing  except 
size,  as  clearly  indicated  in  the  above  engravings. 

Although  botanical  investigation  claims  that  nearly  all  pines 
require  two  years  for  flowering  and  the  ripening  of  their  fruity 
for  seed-bearing  purposes,  and  the  Sequoias  three,  Mr.  W.  M. 
Whitley,  for  several  seasons  a resident  as  well  as  visitor  of  the 
Mariposa  Big  Tree  Grove,  after  closely  watching  the  annual  prog- 
ress and  development  of  different  clusters  of  cones,  contends  that 
the  Sequoia  requires  four , instead  of  three  years,  to  bring  it  to 
perfection. 


*Veitch’s  Manual  of  Conifer®. 


244 


JJV  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


WHY  NAMED  “SEQUOIA.” 

Sequoyah  was  the  name  of  a Cherokee  Indian  chief,  of  mixed 
blood,  who  lived  in  Will’s  Valley,  at  the  northeastern  corner  of 
Alabama;  and  who  became  famous  to  the  world  as  the  inventor 
of  an  alphabet  of  eighty-six  characters,  each  representing  a sylla- 
ble, for  the  purpose  of  supplying  his  tribe  with  a written  language. 
This  language  is  still  in  use  among  the  Cherokees.  He  died  in 
1843,  at  the  age  of  73  years.  His  intellectual  and  inventive 
prominence  exalted  him  as  far  above  his  people  as  the  lofty  red- 
woods of  the  Coast  Range  towered  above  other  forest  trees;  and 
this  coincidence  suggested  to  Endlicher  the  propriety  of  honorably 
perpetuating  the  name  of  this  memorable  chief,  through  one  of  the 
most  valuable  and  imposing  productions  of  the  vegetable  kingdom. 
Hence  the  name,  Sequoia,  now  made  generic  by  its  application  to 
both  species  of  the  genus. 

THEIR  DISTRIBUTION. 

The  Big  Trees  do  not  grow  in  one  continuous  belt,  like  the 
pines  and  firs,  for  instance;  but  in  groups,  some  of  which,  as  the 
South  Grove  and  Tuolumne,  are  nearly  forty  miles  apart;  and 
generally  in  sheltered  hollows,  below  the  tops  of  ridges.  These 
groups  are  ten  in  number;  and,  commencing  northerly  at  the  one 
first  discovered,  run  southerly,  as  follows:  The  Calaveras,  South 
Grove,  Tuolumne,  Merced,  Mariposa,  fresno,  Dinky,  King’s  River. 
New  King’s  River,  and  Kaweah  or  Tule  Group.  The  latter,  being 
scattered  over  low  ridges  and  valleys,  only  separated  b}7  deep 
canons,  for  over  sixty  miles,  and  having  a breadth  of  five,  might 
more  correctly  be  called  a belt;  with  a vertical  range  of  nearly 
two  thousand  five  hundred  feet.  Their  altitude,  like  the  upper 
timber-line  of  the  Sierras,  is  more  or  less  climatic,  and  regulated 
somewhat  by  latitude ; for,  while  some  of  the  Calaveras  group  are 
less  than  five  thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  the  Grizzly  Giant 
in  the  Mariposa  Grove,  by  no  means  the  highest  in  location, 
is  nearly  six  thousand,  and  those  of  the  Tule  Grove  over  eight 
thousand.  This  applies  to  the  native  habitat  of  all  forest  trees* 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


245 


of  the  Sierras,  even  when  having  a range,  in  altitude,  of  from 
two  to  three  thousand  feet,  as  in  the  Tule  Grove;  for,  while 
the  upper  edge  of  the  timber  forest  at  Mt.  Shasta  is  only  eight 
thousand  feet,  that  immediately  east  of  Yo  Semite  is  eleven  thou- 
sand, while  on  the  ridges  near  Fisherman’s  Peak  (the  proposed  new 
Mt.  Whitney)  it  is  twelve  thousand  two  hundred  feet  above  sea 
level.  Latitude,  therefore,  as  well  as  altitude  becomes  an  impor- 
tant factor  in  the  distribution  of  species,  in  the  forests  of  the 
Sierras,  and  should  be  allowed  due  consideration  when  determin- 
ing their  habitat. 

PROBABLE  AGE  OF  THE  BIG  TREES. 

If,  as  generally  conceded  by  botanists,  the  concentric  rings 
of  trees  interpret  their  annual  growth,  they  at  once  suggest  an 
interesting  inquiry  as  to  the  probable  age  of  the  Sequoias.  The 
distance  of  the  rings  between  is  sometimes  very  marked;  in- 
asmuch as,  while  some  do  not  show  more  than  six  or  eight  to 
the  inch,  others  will  give  forty.  Rich  soil  and  favorable  location 
may  account  for  the  former,  and  the  reverse  for  the  latter.  The 
concentric  rings  of  the  stump  of  the  original  Big  Tree  in  the 
Calaveras  Grove,  prove  its  annual  growth  to  have  been  more  than 
double  that  of  others  in  the  same  group ; therefore,  while  intimat- 
ing that  it  was  cut  down  in  its  youth,  perhaps  a thousand  years 
before  it  had  attained  its  full  development,  it  is  suggestive  of  the 
possibility  of  many  emiment  scientists  having  been  misled  in  their 
estimate  of  the  approximate  age  of  these  vegetable  giants.  I 
have  a piece  of  wood  in  my  Yo  Semite  cabin,  taken  from  one  of 
the  decumbent  trees  in  the  Mariposa  Grove,  that  will  average 
thirty-four  rings  to  the  inch,  I have  counted  such  in  numerous 
specimens,  and  am  satisfied  that  the  average  number  of  concentric 
rings  in  the  Sequoias , would  be  about  twenty-four  to  the  inch ; 
supposing,  therefore,  the  diameter  of  the  tree  to  be  twenty -five 
feet  (the  distance  across  the  stump  in  the  Calaveras  Grove),  meas- 
uring from  the  heart  to  the  outer  edge  of  the  sap,  the  half 
being  twelve  feet  six  inches,  would  make  its  astonishing  age  three 
thousand  six  hundred  years ; and,  if  thirty  feet  in  diameter  (there 


246 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


are  many  of  these),  it  would  be  four  thousand  three  hundred  and 
twenty  years. 

There  is  no  apparent  probability  of  this  species  ever  becom- 
ing extinct,  as  its  fecundity  exceeds  that  of  any  other  forest  tree 
in  the  Sierras. 

Not  with  standing-  the  striking  resemblance  between  the  two 
species  of  this  genus,  in  habit,  form,  wood,  cones,  and  foliage, 
the  “Redwood”  has  never  been  found  growing  in  the  Sierra 
Nevada  Mountains,  or  the  “ Big  Tree  ” in  the  Coast  Range. 

RAPID  GROWTH. 

There  can  be  no  question  of  the  very  rapid  growth  of  the 
Sequoia  gigantea,  inasmuch  as  the  species  was  unknown  until 
1852,  and  no  seeds  from  it  were  sent  to  England  before  1858;  yet 
trees  have  been  grown  there  that  have  attained  an  altitude  and 
circumference  that  are  remarkable:  For  instance,  at  the  country 
seat  of  the  Earl  of  Devon,  at  Powderham  Castle,  near  Exeter, 
England,  there  is  one  specimen  that  exceeds  sixty  feet  in  height 
and  ten  feet  in  girth,  at  three  feet  from  the  ground;  and  that 
growth  has  been  attained  in  less  than  one-third  of  a century. 
There  are  many  other  notable  examples  in  Kent,  Devon,  Glouces- 
ter, Sussex,  and  other  counties  of  England,  where  this  species  seems 
thoroughly  to  acclimatize. 

There  is  one  striking  difference  between  the  Sequoia  gigantea , 
and  the  Sequoia  sempervirens,  in  habit;  the  former  grows  only 
from  seeds,  and  the  latter  from  both  seeds  and  suckers,  and  mainly 
from  the  latter,  in  their  native  forests. 

DURABILITY  OF  THE  WOOD. 

Notwithstanding  the  exceeding  softness,  lightness,  and  fine- 
ness  of  texture  of  its  timber,  its  durability  is  unequaled.  In  the 
Fresno  Grove  there  lies  an  immense  Sequoia,  within  three  feet  of 
whose  sides  there  sprung  up  a thrifty  young  giant,  which,  when 
it  reached  the  prostrate  tree,  as  it  could  not  thrust  it  out  of  its 
way,  grew  over  it;  so  that  when  last  seen  by  the  writer  it  had 
grown  across  it  six  feet  and  ten  inches;  yet  the  heart-wood  of 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


2 47 


that  prostrate  tree  was  as  sound  as  the  clay  that  it  fell.  This 
species,  therefore,  will,  at  no  distant  day,  be  cultivated  for  its. 
valuable  qualities  as  a timber  tree;  both  from  its  durability, 
fineness  of  texture,  and  general  excellence  for  finishing  purposes. 

There  is  a dense  resinous  gum  that  exudes  from  the  body  of 
the  tree  in  considerable  quantity,  where  fire  has  consumed  the 
wood,  and  much  of  this  has  run  into  the  burned  cavity;  and 
which,  becoming  ignited,  has  largely  contributed  to  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  tree.  This  gum  is  of  a crimson-tinted  chocolate  color ; 
but  its  relative  uses,  or  commerical  value,  have  not  yet  been  deter- 
mined. A similar  substance  drops  from  the  cone  in  fragmentary 
crystals,  when  it  is  ripe. 

Although  especial  prominence  has  been  given  here  to  the  Se- 
quoia gigantea  or  Big  Tree,  owing  to  its  being  one  of  the  remark- 
able forest  products  of  the  Sierras,  and  within  the  circle  or  round 
of  Yo  Semite  travel,  there  can  exist  no  possible  intention  of  slight- 
ing its  big  twin  brother  of  the  Coast  Range,  the  Sequoia  semper- 
virens , or  Redwood ; inasmuch  as,  although  separate  in  habitat, 
there  is  but  little  inequality  between  the  two  species,  either  in 
stature,  texture,  imposing  presence,  or  other  valuable  qualities. 
They  are,  therefore,  twin  representatives  of  the  finest  genus  of 
forest  trees  yet  known  to  man.  Yet,  notwithstanding  this,  and 
their  being  the  new  wonder  of  the  world,  found  within  a limited 
area  on  this  coast  only,  humiliating  confession  has  to  be  made, 
that,  from  business  greed  and  lack  of  foresight  in  the  government, 
these  glorious  Sequoian  forests  are  so  rapidly  disappearing  that, 
within  a quarter,  or  at  most  a third  of  a century,  they  will  have 
been  swept  from  off  the  earth. 

FOSSILIZED  BIG  TREES. 

The  Sequoias  are  proven  to  have  existed  in  the  Tertiary 
Period,  as  fossil  remains  of  its  cones  and  foliage  are  in  the  posses- 
sion of  Mr.  Carruthers,  Curator  of  Botany  at  the  British  Museum, 
London ; and  fossil  specimens  have  also  been  recently  found  in  the 
Calaveras  Grove.  The  so-called  “ Petrified  Forest,”  near  Calis- 
toga,  Napa  County,  California,  represents  the  fossiliferous  con- 
dition of  Sequoia  sempervirens. 


CHAPTER  XV  III. 


THE  BERENDA  ROUTE  TO  YO  SEMITE. 

Go  forth  under  the  open  sky,  and  list 
To  Nature’s  teachings. 

— Bryant’s  Thanatopsis. 

O what  a glory  doth  this  world  put  on 
For  him  who,  with  a fervent  heart,  goes  forth 
Under  the  bright  and  glorious  sky,  and  looks 
On  duties  well  performed,  and  days  well  spent! 

— Longfellow’s  Autumn. 

One  contented  with  what  he  has  done,  stands  but  small  chance  of  becoming 
famous  for  what  he  will  do.  He  has  laid  down  to  die.  The  grass  is  already  grow- 
ing over  him.  — Bovee’s  Summaries  of  Thought. 

Spinning  out  from  the  Lathrop  depot  on  our  way  to  Berenda, 
by  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  that  being  the  route  we  have 
now  elected  to  take,  our  course  lies  up  the  valley  of  the  San 
Joaquin;  past  farms,  and  stock,  and  towns;  with  the  snow-capped 
Sierras  on  our  left  hand,  the  Coast  Bange  on  our  right,  and  both 
in  the  far-away  distance  until  we  reach  Berenda.  Here  we  leave 
the  Southern  Pacific  and  take  the  Yo  Semite  branch  railroad 
to  Raymond,  twenty-two  miles  distant. 

Our  course  lies  easterly;  and,  for  the  first  eight  or  ten  miles, 
over  a treeless  tract  of  country,  of  the  peculiar  formation  desig- 
nated by  people  generally  as  “hog  wallows;”  consisting  of 
little  flat  hills,  nearly  round,  about  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  and 
from  one  to  three  feet  in  elevation,  only  divided  from  each  other 
by  narrow  hollows.  As  there  are  hundreds  of  square  miles  of 
these,  all  sorts  of  theories  upon  their  origin  have  been  formulated, 
but  none,  as  yet,  satisfactorily  so.  Some  think  them  the  creations 
of  an  immense  number  of  rodents;  others,  by  shrubs  around 
which  the  wind  has  carried  soil,  and  left  it;  others,  by  the  action 
(248) 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


249 


of  water;  but,  as  all  these  know  as  much  about  their  cause  as 
we  do,  there  is  something  left  for  all  to  inquire  into  and  think 
about.  Uninviting,  however,  as  these  may  at  first  sight  appear, 
for  agricultural  purposes,  as  the  land  is  comparatively  cheap, 
easily  reclaimed,  and  the  soil  productive,  they  are  rapidly  being 
taken  up  by  colonies  of  settlers. 


THE  BERENDA  ROUTE. 

From  San  Francisco,  via  Lathrop,  Merced,  Berenda,  Raymond,  Grant’s  Sulphur 
Springs,  Wawona,  and  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Grove,  to  Yo  Semite. 


Stations  marked  (a)  are  stopping  places  at  night  for  stage  passengers;  those  marked  (6) 
are  hotels,  or  where  meals  can  be  had;  those  marked  (c)  are  where  hay  and  grain  are  obtain- 
able; those  marked  (d)  are  stage  stations. 


Distances  in 

Miles. 

Stations. 

Between  consecu- 
tive points. . . . 

From  San  Fran- 
cisco  

To  San  Francisco 

dtitude,  in  feet, 
above  sea  level. 

By  Railway. 

200.03 

From  San  Francisco  to — 

Lathrop,  junction  of  the  Southern  Pacific  with  the 

Centra]  Pacific  Railroad  (6  c) 

94.03 

94.03 

58.00 

28 

Merced,  on  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  (be) 

58.00 

152.03 

26.00 

171 

Berenda,  on  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  (abed)  ... 

26.00 

178.03 

22.00 

280 

Raymond,  on  Yo  Semite  Branch  Railroad  (be).... 

22.00 

200.03 

350 

By  Carriage  Road. 

60.90 

From  Raymond  to — 

Gambetta  Mines 

13.00 

13.00 

47.90 

1,900 

Crook’s  Ranch 

4.50 

17.50 

43.40 

1,800 

Grant’s  Sulphur  Springs  (bed) 

5.50 

23.00 

37.90 

2,850 

Summit  of  Chow-chilla  Mountain 

6.50 

29.50 

31.10 

5,605 

Wawona  (Clark’s)  (abed) 

4.50 

34.00 

26.90 

3,925 

Eleven  Mile  Station  (6  cj 

10.76 

44.76 

16.14 

5,567 

Chinquapin  Flat  (d) ... 

2.20 

46.96 

13.94 

5,908 

El  Capitan  Bridge,  Yo  Semite  Valley 

Leidig’s  Hotel,  Yo  Semite  Valley  (abed) 

Cook’s  Hotel,  Yo  Semite  Valley  (abed) 

10.31 

57.27 

3.63 

3,926 

2.56 

0.30 

59.83 

60.13 

1.07 

0.77 

Barnard’s  Hotel,  Yo  Semite  Valley  (abed) 

.77 

60.90 

3,934 

* From  Big  Tree  Station  (Clark's)  to  and  through  the  Mariposa  Big  Trees  and  back  toSta- 
tion,  17  miles. 

RECAPITULATION. 


By  railway 200.03  miles. 

By  carriage  road 60.90  “ 

To  Big  Tree  Groves  and  return 17.00  “ 


Total  distance 277.93  miles. 


250 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


Leaving  the  railroad  at  Raymond  our  road  now  winds  around 
oak-studded  ridges,  or  across  flats  and  low  knolls,  which,  in  spring, 
are  garnished  with  an  endless  variety  of  flowers  and  flowering 
shrubs.  Of  the  former,  from  a single  square  yard,  carefully  meas- 
ured off,  a botanical  enthusiast  informed  the  writer  that  he  picked 
over  three  thousand  plants ! J ourneying  over  the  same  ground  in 
the  fall,  nothing  but  a just  and  discriminating  imagination  could 
realize  how  beautifully  these  hills  were  then  garnished. 

While  changing  horses  at  the  station,  there  can  sometimes  be 
seen  a horny-backed,  and  point-armored  little  reptile  that  attracts 
attention  by  the  singularity  of  his  appearance.  It  is  called 

THE  HORNED  TOAD. 

This  quaint  little  member  of  the  lizard  family  is  generally 
found  on  dry  hills,  or  sandy  plains;  never  in  swamps  or  marshes. 
There  are  six  different  species,  and  all  perfectly  harmless.  Owing 
to  this,  and  their  slow  movements  making  them  easy  of  capture, 
with  their  singular  appearance,  they  have  been  carried  off*  by 
curiosity -hunters,  as  pets;  so  that,  although  quite  numerous  some 
years  ago,  they  are  now  becoming  scarce.  They  possess  the  won- 
derful power  of  adapting  their  color  to  that  of  the  soil;  and  change 
from  one  hue  to  another  in  from  twenty-four  to  forty-eight, 


the  horned  toad  ( Phrynosoma J. 


TIIE  TO  SEMITE  TALLEY. 


251 


hours.*  They  sometimes  simulate  death  when  handled,  and  will 
putt*  themselves  into  a nearly  spherical  shape.  Their  aversion  to 
dogs  is  very  great;  and,  when  one  approaches,  they  raise  themselve" 
to  their  full  height,  puff  out  their  body,  and  hiss  aloud.  They 


they  capture  by  quickly  thrusting  out  the  tongue,  coated  with  a 
viscid  saliva. 

When  a resident  of  the  mines,  in  1849-50,  the  writer  had  a 


when,  strange  to  say,  at  the  end  of  that  time,  the  male,  which 


one  morning,  and  strangled  himself ; and,  on  the  evening  of  the 


very  marked  in  their  attractiveness  one  is  the  “ Leather wood  ” 
Fremontia  Calif ornica,  which  is  from  eight  to  twelve  feet  in 
height,  covered  with  bright  yellow  blossoms;  and  the  other  the 
“Buckeye”  lEsculus  Californica,  having  an  erect  panicle  of 
pinkish- white  blossoms,  from  six  to  twelve  inches  in  height,  and 
two  or  more  in  thickness.  But  were  we  to  examine  every  flower, 
shrub,  and  tree,  found  upon  our  way,  our  task  would  be  endless; 
as  the  late  Dr.  Torrey  assured  me  that  he  saw  over  three  hundred 

*See  Lieutenant  Wheeler’s  U.  S.  Survey,  vol.  v,  page  512. 


will  completely  bury  themselves  out  of  sight  in  the  sand  in  a few 
moments.  Their  food  consists  of  flies  and  other  insects,  which 


pair  picketed  out  in  front  of  his  cabin  for  over  three  months; 


was  the  smaller  of  the  two,  wound  himself  around  his  picket-pin 


same  day  the  female  followed  his  suicidal  example.  Upon  mak- 
ing a post-mortem  examination  of  the  latter,  a cluster  of  fifteen 


fii'l  visit  to  any  Chinese  pharmacy,  the 
i ;K  Horned  Toad  will  be  found  dried  and 


||  ground  into  powder,  or  infused  in  a 
I |i  decoction,  for  certain  fevers,  and  dis- 


eases of  the  skin. 


EGGS  OE  THE  HORNED  TOAD,  NAT- 
URAL SIZE, 


As  we  keep  ascending,  the  scenery 
becomes  more  picturesque,  and  the 
shrubs  and  trees  more  interesting. 
There  are  two  of  the  former  that  are 


IT 


252 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


different  species,  not  to  mention  varieties,  in  a single  day’s  ride, 
on  his  way  to  Yo  Semite. 

Jnst  as  we  are  coming  to  another  station,  the  “ lump-e-tump- 
thump  ” of  machinery  in  motion  tells  us  that  we  are  near 

THE  GAMBETTA  GQLD  MINES. 

That  which  is  nearest  the  road,  and  most  easily  seen,  is  the 
“Shore  Pride,”  owned  by  J.  M.  McDonald  & Bro.  This  is 
situated  on  “ Grub  Gulch  ” (the  name  of  the  post-office);  so  called 
from  the  fact  that,  whenever  men  grew  too  poor  to  exist  elsewhere, 
they  returned  here,  and  “ dug  out  a living.”  To  the  left  of  this, 
and  a little  farther  on,  is  the  Haley  or  Gambetta  Mine.  This  is 
a rich  vein  of  ore  that  steadily  yields  a given  sum  (I  must  not 
tell  you  how  much,  as  the  amount  was  named  confidentially ; but 
it  would  take  you  and  1 many  thousand  years  to  starve  to  death 
upon  it  if  we  did  not  spend  over  $5,000  per  month).  If  you  wish 
to  see  a neat  and  cozy  home,  a well-arranged  mill,  and  an  excel- 
lent gold-bearing  quartz  ledge,  do  not  fail  to  call  here.  These 
works  are  about  thirty-three  miles  from  Berenda,  and  are  one 
thousand  nine  hundred  feet  above  sea  level. 

But,  threading  our  way  among  cultivated  fields,  over  low 
hills  covered  with  oaks  and  pines,  we  find  ourselves  at 

grant’s  sulphur  springs. 

Here  you  will  find  what  New  Englanders  would  call  a 
“chipper,”  brisk,  go-ahead,  wide-awake,  and  kindly -hearted  man  • 
who,  as  “mine  host,”  will  make  you  feel  at  home;  and,  as  pro- 
prietor, that  he  has  spared  neither  money,  time,  nor  energy  to  com- 
pel a forest-wilderness  to  “blossom  as  the  rose.”  He  raises  the 
largest  crops,  the  biggest  water-melons,  the  nicest  strawberries, 
and  the  finest  fruit  to  be  found  anywhere.  More  than  this,  he 
will  praise  his  chicken,  and  chicken  salad,  or  roast  beef,  or  home- 
raised  hams,  and  everything  else  upon  his  table ; if  for  no  other 
purpose  than  to  help  you  to  find  an  appetite  to  eat  it.  Almost 
before  you  know  it,  therefore,  you  find  that  you  have  not  only 
eaten  a hearty  meal,  but  have  thoroughly  enjoyed  it.  If  there 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


253 


could  be  found  a single  stingy  hair  in  Judge  Grant’s  head,  light 
as  the  crop  is  becoming,  I believe  he  would  pull  it  out. 

Then,  there  are  the  “ Sulphur  Springs,”  rolling  out  thirty- 
three  inches  of  strong  sulphurous  water  every  second ; and  said  to 
be  fully  equal  to  the  celebrated  springs  of  Arkansas,  and  Saratoga. 
These,  with  the  mountain  air,  conveniences  of  access,  and  wildly 
picturesque  surroundings,  will  bring  hither  many  an  invalid,  who 
can  here  take  out  a new  lease  of  life,  with  Judge  Grant  to  assist 
in  “ drawing  up  the  papers.” 

Leaving  this  attractive  spot,  our  road  winds  along  the 
shoulders  of  Chow-chilla  Mountain;  and,  while  his  bold  brow  of 
granite  is  frowning  above  us,  there  is  a broad  and  marvelously 
beautiful  landscape  smiling  below  and  beyond  us,  and  one  that  it 
would  be  difficult  to  excel  anywhere.  Be  sure  and  induce  your 
coachman  to  “ hold  up  ” for  a few  moments  to  obtain  this  view. 

That  satisfying  and  intensely  gratifying  prospect  only  pre- 
pares us  for  the  contrast  so  soon  to  follow ; for,  having  reached 
the  summit  of  Chow-chilla  Mountain,  and  an  altitude  of  five 
thousand  six  hundred  feet,  we  enter  a glorious  forest  of  pines, 
which  continues  all  the  way  down  the  mountain,  some  four  and 
a half  miles,  to 

WAWONA. 

Wawona  (the  Indian  name  for  Big  Tree),  formerly  called 
“ Clark’s,”  is  the  great  central  stage  station,  where  the  Berenda, 
Madera,  and  Mariposa  routes  all  come  together;  and  which  also 
forms  the  starting-point  for  the  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Groves.  The 
very  instant  the  bridge  is  crossed,  on  the  way  to  the  hotel,  the 
whole  place  seems  bristling  with  business,  and  business  energy. 
Conveyances  of  all  kinds,  from  a sulky  to  whole  rows  of  passen- 
ger coaches,  capable  of  carrying  from  one  to  eighteen  or  twenty 
persons  each,  at  a load,  come  into  sight.  From  some  the  horses 
are  just  being  taken  out,  while  others  are  being  hitched  up.  Hay 
and  grain  wagons ; freight  teams  coming  and  going ; horses  with 
or  without  harness;  stables  for  a hundred  animals;  blacksmiths’ 
shops,  carriage  and  paint  shops,  laundries  and  other  buildings, 


4 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


look  at  us  from  as  many  different  stand-points.  That  cozy-look- 
ing structure  on  our  left  is  Mr.  Thos.  Hill’s  studio;  but  that 
which  now  most  claims  our  attention,  and  invites  our  sympathies, 
is  the  commodious  and  cheery,  yet  stately  edifice  in  front  known  as 
the  Wawona  Hotel. 

The  moment  we  reach  its  platform,  and  are  assisted  in  alight- 
ing by  one  of  the  three  brothers,  Mr.  A.  H.,  Mr.  E.  P.,  or  Mr.  J. 
S.  Washburn,  we  feel  at  home.  And  while  one  or  the  other  of 
these  gentlemen  are  seeking  to  divest  our  garments  of  the  little 
dust  that  has  gathered  on  them,  and  the  servants  are  performing  a 
similar  service  to  our  baggage,  let  me  introduce  those  gentlemen 
to  you.  Mr.  A.  H.  Washburn  is  one  of  the  principal  owners  of 
the  Wawona  Hotel,  with  its  extensive  grounds  and  pastures;  and 
also  of  the  Yo  Semite  Stage  and  Turnpike  Company’s  stage  lines? 
of  which  he  is  the  efficient  superintendent.  If  he  gives  you  his 
word  for  anything,  you  may  rest  assured  that  it  will  be  accom- 
plished, very  near  to  programme,  or  proven  to  be  utterly  impos- 
sible. Mr.  Edward  Washburn,  and  Mr.  John  Washburn  with 
his  accomplished  wife,  will  do  their  best  to  make  our  stay  here 
enjoyable.  To  their  kind  and  courteous  care,  therefore,  we  con- 
fidently commit  ourselves. 

After  dinner  the  first  place  generally  visited  is 

HILL’S  STUDIO. 

Here  will  be  found  quite  a number  of  beautiful  gems  of  art,  the 
merits  of  which  are  assured  from  the  fact  that  Mr.  Thos.  Hill 
took  the  first  medal  for  landscape  painting  at  the  Centennial  Ex- 
position of  1876,  and  also  the  Temple  Medal  of  the  Academy 
of  Fine  Arts,  of  Philadelphia,  for  1884,  with  numerous  others. 
The  paintings,  therefore,  will  speak  for  themselves.  We  shall, 
moreover,  find  Mr.  Hill  a very  genial  gentleman,  who  has  been 
everywhere,  almost — if  not  a little  beyond — seen  about  as  much 
as  most  men,  and  can  tell  what  he  has  seen  pleasantly,  includ- 
ing his  haps  and  mishaps.  So  that  apart  from  the  delight  given 
by  an  inspection  of  his  beautiful  creations  (and  he  loves  Art  for 
her  own  sake),  our  visit  will  meet  with  other  rewards. 


THE  W A WON  A HOTEI 


256 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


EXCURSION  TO  THE  MARIPOSA  BIG  TREE  GROVE. 

This,  deservedly,  forms  one  of  the  attractive  pilgrimages 
around  Wawona,  and  a sight  of  these  botanical  prodigies  has 
probably  been  one  of  the  many  inducements  to  the  journey  hither. 
The  trip  is  generally  undertaken  in  the  early  afternoon;  ljut,  if 
time  will  allow,  the  entire  day  should  be  devoted  to  it.  There  is 
so  much  to  be  seen  upon  the  way;  its  flora,  and  fauna-(not  much 
of  the  latter),  and  sundry  “ what  nots,”  that  will  otherwise  be- 
guile us  into  the  regretful  wish  that  we  had  more  time  to  spend, 
lingeringly,  among  them.  And,  after  all,  what  is  time  for,  but 
to  use  well,  and  to  spend  pleasantly? 

But  before  setting  out  for  them,  it  may  be  well  to  state  that 
this  grove  of  big  trees  was  discovered  about  the  end  of  July,  or 
the  beginning  of  August,  1855,  by  a young  man  named  Hogg; 
who  passed  by,  however,  without  examining  them.  Relating  the 
fact  to  Mr.  Galen  Clark  and  others,  Mr.  Clark  and  Mr.  Milton 
Mann,  in  June,  1856,  united  forces,  for  the  purpose  of  visiting 
and  exploring  the  newly  discovered  grove ; in  order  to  definitely 
ascertain  its  location,  with  the  number  and  size  of  its  trees. 
These  gentlemen,  therefore,  were  the  first  to  make  known  the  ex- 
tent and  value  of  this  new  discovery.  Finding  that  its  position 
was  near  the  southern  edge  of  Mariposa  County,  it  was  thence- 
forward called  the  “ Mariposa  Grove  of  Big  Trees.” 

How  renewing  memory  brings  back  the  treasures  of  old- 
time  experiences;  when,  in  company  with  Mr.  Galen  Clark,  three 
years  later,  we  shouldered  our  rifles,  carrying  our  blankets  and 
provisions  at  the  backs  of  our  saddles,  and  started  on  my  first 
jaunt  to  this  grove,  over  the  old  Indian  trail.  How  well  and  how 
pleasantly  do  I remember  it,  Mr.  Clark;  since  which  time  you 
and  I have  both  grown  older,  and  learned  many  of  the  instruct- 
ively suggestive  lessons  of  life. 

THE  DRIVE  TO  THE  GROVE 

Is  through  a vast  forest  of  stately  pines,  firs,  and  cedars,  and 
among  blossoming  shrubs,  and  bright-faced  flowers.  On  the  way, 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


V:V. 


Sketched  from  Nature  by  G.  Tirrel 


THE  GRIZZLY  GIANT. 


however,  there  is  one  im- 
mense sugar  pine,  which, 
had  it  been  found  in  the 
grove  of  Big  Trees,  we  might 
have  supposed  that  there  was 
the  pride  of  rivalry  in  its 
heart,  as  its  circumference 
is  about  thirty-three  feet. 
About  five  miles  from  Wa- 
wona  we  find  the  first  clus- 
ter of  Big  Trees,  which  are 
of  goodly  proportions;  al- 
though the  driver,  by  way  of 
answer  to  our  inquiring  ex- 
clamations, responds,  “Oh! 
they’re  nothin’,  we  throws 
those  little  chaps  in,  with- 
out countin’.”  These  our 
aneroid  barometer  placed  at 
an  altitude  of  five  thousand 
six  hundred  and  thirty  feet. 
But  once  fairly  within  the 
impressive  precincts  of  the 
grove,  we  are  soon  brought 
face  to  face  with  one  of  the 
oldest,  most  storm-tossed, 
and  grizzled,  of  this  entire 
family  of  Brobdingnags.  It 
is  called 

THE  GRIZZLY  GIANT, 

And  it  looks  at  you  as  defi- 
antly as  the  oldest  veteran 
grizzly  bear  ever  could. 
By  careful  measurement  we 
found  its  dimensions  to  be. 


258 


IN  TIIE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


at  the  ground,  including  a jutting  spur,  ninety -one  feet;  and 
three  feet  six  inches  above  the  ground,  seventy-four  feet  six  inches. 
Professor  Whitney  places  its  circumference,  eleven  feet  from  the 
ground,  at  sixty-four  feet  three  inches ; with  its  two  diameters  at 
base  thirty,  and  thirty-one  feet ; and,  eleven  feet  above  base,  twenty 
feet. 

But  a mere  statement  of  dimensions  and  altitudes  of  these 
trees  can  give  no  realizing  sense  of  their  idealistic  presence  and 
magnitude.  It  is  the  grandeur  of  their  exalted  individuality  and 
awe-inspiring  presence  that  thrills  through  the  soul,  and  fills  it 
with  profound  and  speechless  surprise  and  admiration ; and  not 
merely  of  one  tree,  but  of  whole  vistas  formed  by  their  stately 
trunks.  Who,  then,  by  pen  or  pencil,  can  picture  these  as  they 
are  seen  and  felt?  But  we  must  not  linger  here,  as  there  are  just 
as  many  big  trees  in  this  grove  as  there  are  days  in  the  year ; so 
let  us  see  a few  of  those  which  are  most  remarkable. 

The  coach  generally  halts  at  a large  and  deliciously  cool 
spring  near  the  cabin,  where  those  who  have  come  to  spend  the 
day  will  probably  take  lunch.  Here,  too,  we  shall  have  the 
pleasure  of  meeting  the  guardian  of  the  grove,  Mr.  S.  M.  Cun- 
ningham, who  knows  every  tree  by  heart;  with  its  history,  size, 
and  name,  and  who  can  tell  us  more  about  them  in  ten  minutes 
than  many  men  could  in  an  hour,  who  are  perhaps  quite  as 
familiar  with  them,  and  he  will  do  it  cheerfully.  I can  see  his 
bright  and  genial  look,  and  can  watch  his  wiry  form  and  supple 
movements,  while  I write.  There  is  one  thing  especially  notice- 
able about  Mr.  Cunningham,  he  never  gets  discouraged;  and 
always  sees  the  bright  side  of  things;  so  that  when  a storm  is 
swaying  the  tops  of  the  trees  until  they  bend  again,  he  can  listen? 
interestedly,  to  their  music ; and  can  tell  you  laughable  incidents 
until  your  .sides  shake. 

Two  beautifully  perfect  Sequoias  stand  on  either  side  the 
cabin,  one  named  the  “ Ohio,”  and  the  other  “ U.  S.  Grant.”  The 
former  is  seventy-six  feet  in  girth  at  the  ground,  and  six  feet 
above  the  ground  is  fifty -five  feet;  and  the  latter  sixty-five  feet 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


259 


six  below,  and  forty-five  feet  above.  W ithin  thirty  yards  of  these 
is  the  “ General  Lafayette,”  thirty  feet  in  diameter.  Near  this 
is  the  “ Haverford  ” (named  after  the  “Friends”  College,  Phila- 
delphia), in  which  sixteen  horses  have  stood  at  one  time.  It  is 
burned  into  three  compartments ; across  two  of  the  spurs  of  which 
the  distance  is  thirty-five  feet ; and,  transversely,  thirty-three  feet. 
“ Washington  ” has  a girth  of  ninety- one  feet,  at  the  base;  is  round 
and  very  symmetrical.  Although  burned  out  somewhat  near  the 
ground,  the  new  growth,  as  usual,  is  rapidly  healing  the  wounds 
that  fire  has  made.  This  is  an  especially  excellent  provision  of 
nature  for  preserving  and  perpetuating  this  grand  species,  when  in 
its  prime ; inasmuch  as  while  restoring  the  ravages  of  the  elements 
by  the  new  growth,  a much-needed  support  is  added  to  the  abut- 
ments, which  intercepts  and  prevents  it  premature  downfall. 

The  “ Mariposa  ” is  eighty-six  feet  in  circumference,  at  the 
ground ; and,  seven  feet  above  it,  is  sixty-six  feet.  This  tree  seems 
to  have  been  badly  burned  by  two  consuming  fires,  at  different 
periods ; after  each  of  which  the  new  growth  has,  visibly,  attempted 
its  restoration.  Near  to  this  are  four  beautifully  symmetrical  trees, 
named,  respectively,  “ Longfellow,”  “ Whittier,”  “ Lyell,”  and 
“Dana,”  a quarto  of  great  natures,  whose  companionship  is  sug- 
gestive of  poetry  and  geology  going  hand  in  hand  with  each 
other;  and  almost  adjoining  these  is  the  “Harvard,”  a tall  and 
gracefully  tapering  tree  of  fine  proportions,  which  seems  to  derive 
much  strength  of  purpose  from  so  congenial  an  association.  The 
“Telescope  ” is  an  erect,  burnt-out  chimney-like  trunk  about  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  height,  and  which,  although  a mere 
shell,  has  still  a growth  of  cone-bearing  foliage  upon  it.  The 
“Workshop  ” is  an  immense  living  giant  with  a capacious  hollow 
at  its  base,  which  forms  a room  twelve  by  sixteen,  in  which  all 
sorts  of  little  souvenirs  are  made  from  broken  pieces  of  the  big 
tree. 

But,  “Wawona,”the  “Tunnel  Tree,”  through  the  heart  of 
which  the  road  passes,  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  in  the  grove. 
At  the  base  this  tree  is  twenty-seven  feet  in  diameter;  while  the 


260 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


enormous  trunk  through  which  the  excavation  is  made  is  in  solid 
heart- wood,  where  the  concentric  rings,  indicating  its  annual 
growth,  can  be  readily  seen  and  counted,  and  its  approximate 
age  determined  by  actual  enumeration,  and  thus  satisfactorily 
settle  that  interesting  fact  beyond  the  least  peradventure.  The 


Photo,  by  Geo.  Fiske. 


DRIVING  THROUGH  LIVING  TREE,  “WAWONA.” 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


261 


arch,  or  “ tunnel  ” as  it  is  called,  is  ten  feet  in  height,  by  a width 
of  nine  feet  six  inches  at  the  bottom,  and  six  feet  six  inches  at  the 
top.  “ Driving  through  a living  tree,”  one  would  suppose  to  be 
as  great  a feat  as  Daniel  O’Connell’s,  who  boasted  that  he  could 
“ drive  a ‘ coach  and  four  ’ through  any  Act  of  Parliament  ever 
made  in  the  British  House  of  Commons!” 

Just  below  this  is  a very  large  prostrate  tree,  in  possession  of 
the  questionable  name  of  “ Claveau’s  Saloon,”  through  which,  in 
former  years,  two  horsemen  could  ride  abreast  for  eighty  feet; 
but,  another  “big  tree”  falling  across  it,  has  broken  in  its  roof; 
yet,  above  this,  people  can  ride  through,  for  thirty  feet.  The  few 
noticeable  examples  here  presented  can  be  but  barely  sufficient  to 
illustrate  the  peculiarities  and  immense  proportions  of  this  extraor- 
dinary genus;  and  when  our  delighted  vision  can  be  feasted 
upon  such  magnificent  representatives  as  the  “ Queen  of  the 
Forest,”  “ Monadnock,”  “Keystone,”  “Virginia  and  Maryland,” 
“ Board  of  Commissioners,”  the  “ Diamond  Group,”  and  many 
other  equally  perfect  trees,  varying  in  circumference  from  sixty 
to  ninety  feet,  and  in  altitude  from  two  hundred  and  fifty  to  two 
hundred  and  seventy-five  feet,  we  become  satisfied  that,  like  the 
Queen  of  Sheba’s  opinion  of  the  wisdom  of  Solomon,  “ The  half 
hath  not  been  told,”  and  never  can  be;  and  these  become  sug- 
gestive of  the  rich  banquet  in  store  for  those  who  can  here  wor- 
ship nature  for  her  own  glorious  sake. 

And,  be  it  remembered,  that  the  “ big  trees,”  large  as  they  are 
in  themselves,  are  but  a small  proportion  of  this  magnificent 
forest  growth,  intermixed  and  interwoven,  as  they  are,  with  the 
drooping  boughs  of  the  white  blossoming  dogwood,  Cornus 
Nutallii ; or  the  rich  purple  flowers  of  the  ceanothus,  Ceanothus 
thyrsiflovus ; or  the  feathery  bunches  of  white  California  lilac, 
Ceanothus  integerrimus , and  other  species  of  this  beautiful 
plant ; and  to  which  must  be  added,  the  ever  fragrant  masses  of 
blossom  which  adorn  the  azaleas,  Azalea  occidentals,  or  the 
spice  bush,  Calycanthus  occidentalis,  with  its  long,  bright  green 
leaves,  and  singular,  wine-colored  flowers ; and  from  among  all  of 


2 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  TIIE  SIERRAS. 


these  will  be  seen  peeping  the  large  white  bells  of  the  “ Lady 
Washington  Lily,”  Lilium  Washingtonianum;  or  the  Little 
Red  Lily,  Lilium  parvum,  with  the  gorgeously  bright  red  and 
orange-colored  Tiger  Lilies,  Lilium  pardalinum,  and  L.  Hum- 
bolcltii;  and  other  flowers  ad  infinitum. 

But,  reluctantly  as  the  word  “ good-bye”  may  sometimes  fall 
upon  the  ear,  or  strike  home  to  the  heart,  it  must  occasionally  be 
spoken;  yet,  before  doing  this,  let  us  take  just  one  outlook  from 

WAWONA  POINT. 

Here  is  a jutting  ridge  that  stands  boldly  out  from  the  grove, 
but  a short  distance  from  the  road ; and,  as  this  affords  us  a com- 
prehensive bird’s-eye  view  of  the  surrounding  country,  with  its 
distant  mountain  ranges,  and  long  lines  of  trees ; and  more  espe- 
cially of  the  grassy  meadows  and  numerous  buildings  which 
constitute  the  Big  Tree  Station,  “ Wawona,”  two  thousand  five 
hundred  feet  below  us,  we  shall  feel  that  we  are  well  repaid 
for  our  trouble. 

It  may  be  well  here  to  state  that  the  Mariposa  Big  Tree 
Grove,  with  the  Yo  Semite  Valley,  was  donated  to  the  State  of 
California  in  1864,  as  recorded  in  Chapter  VIII  of  this  volume. 

THE  FRESNO  GROVE  OF  BIG  TREES. 

As  this  is  only  about  ten  miles  distant  from  the  Mariposa 
Grove;  and  will,  without  doubt,  at  an  early  day,  form  one  of  the 
many  delightful  excursions  from  Wawona,  a brief  outline  con- 
cerning it  may  not  be  unacceptable.  On  a warm  summer  even- 
ing in  July,  1856,  Mr.  Galen  Clark  was  riding  along  the  ridge 
which  divides  the  waters  of  Big  Creek  from  the  Fresno,  and 
caught  sight  of  a large  group  of  trees  similar  to  those  found  in 
the  Mariposa  Grove.  Two  days  afterward,  Mr.  L.  A.  Holmes,  of 
the  Mariposa  Gazette,  and  Judge  Fitzhugh,  while  on  a hunting 
excursion,  saw  the  tracks  of  Mr.  Clark  s mule  as  they  passed  the 
same  group ; and  as  both  these  parties  were  very  thirsty  at  the 
time,  and  near  the  top  of  the  ridge  at  sundown,  without  water  for 
themselves  and  animals,  they  were  anxious  to  find  this  luxury, 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


263 


and  a good  camping-place,  before  dark.  Consequently,  they  did 
not  deem  it  best  then  to  tarry  to  explore,  intending  to  pay  it 
a visit  at  some  early  time  of  leisure  in  the  future.  This  inter- 
esting task,  however,  seemed  to  be  reserved  for  Mr.  Clark — to 
whom  the  world  is  indebted  for  this  new  discovery — and  the 
writer,  on  the  second  and  third  days  of  July,  1859. 

With  our  fire-arms  across  our  shoulders,  and  our  blankets 
and  a couple  of  days’  provisions  at  the  back  of  our  saddles,  we 
proceeded  for  a short  distance  through  the  thick,  heavy  grass  of 
the  meadow,  and  commenced  the  gradual  ascent  of  a well-timbered 
side-hill,  on  the  edge  of  the  valley,  and  up  and  over  numerous 
low  ridges,  all  of  which  were  more  or  less  covered  with  wild  flow- 
ers. About  six  o’clock  the  same  evening,  we  reached  the  first 
trees  of  that  which  has  since  been  known  as  the  “Fresno  Grove” 
in  safety ; but  as  the  sun  was  fast  sinking,  we  deemed  it  prudent 
to  look  out  for  a good  camping-ground  before  darkness  precluded 
the  opportunity,  and  postpone  exploration  for  the  present.  For- 
tunately we  soon  found  one,  and  at  the  only  patch  of  grass  to  be 
seen  in  several  miles,  as  afterwards  discovered. 

As  we  were  making  our  way  through  the  forest  towards  it, 
thinking  and  feeling  that  probably  we  were  the  first  whites  who 
had  ever  broken  the  profound  solitudes  of  that  grove,  we  heard  a 
splashing  sound,  coming  from  the  direction  in  which  we  were  head- 
ing. This,  with  the  moving  and  rustling  of  bushes,  and  the  snap- 
ping of  dead  sticks,  reminded  us  that  we  were  possibly  invading 
the  secluded  home  of  the  grizzly  bear,  and  might,  almost  before 
we  knew  it,  have  good  sport  or  great  danger,  to  add  variety  to  our 
experiences.  Hastily  dismounting  and  unsaddling,  we  at  once 
picketed  our  animals  on  the  grass-plat;  still  wet  with  the  spurt- 
ings  of  bear’s  feet,  that  had  hurriedly  made  tracks  across  it;  then, 
kindling  a fire,  to  indicate  by  its  smoke  the  direction  of  our  camp, 
we  started  quietly  out 

ON  A BEAR  HUNT. 

Cautiously  peering  over  a low  ridge,  not  over  a hundred 
yards  from  our  horses,  we  saw  two  large  bears  moving  slowly 


264 


IN'  THE  HEART  OF  THE  & 'TERRAS. 


BEAR  HUNT  IN  THE  FRESNO  GROVE. 


away.  Their  attention  had  evidently  been  attracted  by  our 
movements,  as  they  had  paused,  and  were  looking  towards  us  in 
a listening  and  somewhat  defiant  attitude.  Mr.  Clark  was  just 
raising  his  rifle  for  a shot,  when  I whispered  a request  for  per- 
mission to  be  allowed  “ the  first  shot  at  that  immense  fellow  yon- 
der?” who  was  not  over  thirty -five  yards  off.  “ Certainly,  with 
pleasure,”  was  my  companion’s  prompt  and  courteous  rejoinder. 
In  an  instant  a charge  of  buck-shot  was  sent,  just  behind  the 
shoulder;  when  he  made  a quivering  leap  towards  us,  as  though 
he  would  pay  us  back  for  our  temerity;  but  a ball,  from  the  un- 
erring rifle  of  Mr.  Clark,  determined  him  to  make  a hasty  retreat 
after  the  other  one,  already  scampering  off  in  the  distance. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


265 


We  immediately  started  in  pursuit;  and  although  their  course 
could  he  easily  followed  by  the  tracks  made,  as  well  as  by  the  blood 
from  the  wounded  bear,  they  reached  the  shelter  of  a dense  mass 
of  chaparral,  before  we  could  overtake  them,  even  by  a shot;  as 
they  traveled  much  faster  than  we  could,  and  were  there  securely 
hidden  from  sight.  Deeming  it  impolitic  and  unwise  to  follow 
them,  by  creeping  under  and  among  the  bushes  forming  their 
place  of  refuge,  if  not  their  lair,  we  walked  around  upon  the  look- 
out, until  the  deepening  darkness,  as  if  in  sympathy  with  bruin, 
completed  their  hiding,  and  admonished  our  return  to  camp  with- 
out the  expected  prize;  and  where,  when  supper  was  ended,  we 
soon  found  forgetfulness  in  sleep.  After  a very  early  breakfast 
we  again  renewed  our  search  for  the  hoped-for  game ; but,  although 
we  ventured  into  the  chaparral,  and  looked  under  this  and  that 
heavier  clump  of  bushes,  in  the  hopes  of  finding  it ; we  never  saw 
either  of  them  afterwards.  Finding  nothing  larger  than  grouse, 
we  bagged  a few  of  those,  and  then  commenced  our  explorations. 

We  spent  the  whole  day  wandering  through  the  dense  forest, 
which  forms  this  splendid  grove;  looking  at  this  one,  admiring 
that,  and  measuring  others,  without  attempting  to  ascertain  the 
exact  number  of  Sequoias  found  here;  yet  concluded  that  there 
were  about  five  hundred  of  well  developed  Big  Trees,  on  about  as 
many  acres  of  gently  undulating  land.  The  two  largest  we  could 
find  measured  eighty-one  feet  each  in  circumference,  were  well 
formed,  and  straightly  tapering  from  the  ground  to  their  tops. 
Many  others  that  were  equally  sound,  and  as  symmetrically  pro- 
portioned, were  from  fifty-one  feet  to  seventy- five  feet  in  girth. 
The  sugar  pines  were  enormously  large  for  that  species ; as  one 
that  was  near  our  camp  measured  twenty-nine  feet  six  inches  in 
circumference,  and  two  hundred  and  thirty-seven  feet  in  length. 
None  of  the  trees  in  this  grove  were  badly  deformed  by  fire. 

But  now,  if  you  please,  let  us  imagine  that  we  have  taken 
the  delightful,  forest-arched  ride,  from  the  Marisposa  Big  Tree 
Grove,  down  to  Wawona;  as,  before  we  leave  its  enjoyable  pre- 
cincts, there  are  many  points  of  interest  still  to  visit,  and  among 
them 


THE  CHIL-NOO-AL-NA  FALLS. 


NEAR  WAWONA. 


TIIE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


26 


CHIL-NOO-AL-NA. 

Hail  me,  dashing  Chil-noo-al-na! 

O’er  the  cliff's  and  crags  I’m  leaping. 

Where  the  wild  bear,  and  the  lion, 

From  their  lairs  are  stealthy  creeping. 

Here  I love  to  shout  and  clamber, 

O’er  the  rocky  heights  and  steepness, 

As  with  misty  mantle  covering 

Every  nook  and  cave-like  deepness. 

Here  I dwell  with  nymphs  and  dryads; 

Here,  so  high  perched  on  the  mountains; 

While  my  everlasting  waters 

Flutter  down  in  ceaseless  fountains. 

Dashing  into  space  so  grandly, 

Naiad  streams  are  dancing  lightly, 

With  a million  scintillations, 

Spangling  all  the  air  so  brightly. 

In  the  Sylvan  Grotto  hiding, 

See  my  bride;  her  bright  hair  tosses, 

Shim’ring  down  in  glist’ning  meshes, 

’Mong  the  lovely  ferns  and  mosses. 

Lb!  the  Frost  King  brings  his  shackles, 

Ties  my  limbs  with  strength  and  power, 

While  his  elves  are  deftly  weaving 

Shroud,  and  wreath,  and  snowy  flower. 

Tnough  he  tries  with  deathly  stillness, 

But  to  hush  my  voice  forever, 

I leap  forth  from  his  embraces, 

And  his  manacles  I sever. 

For  I’m  Monarch  of  these  forests, 

From  my  great  throne  high  and  lonely. 

Shouting  out  to  lesser  streamlets, 

I reign  o’er  these  waters  only. 

I am  mighty  in  my  power. 

I am  splendid  in  my  glory. 

What  care  I for  Neptune’s  oceans, 

Famed  in  song,  and  ancient  story. 

— Mrs.  Fannie  Bruce  Cook. 


18 


268 


IN'  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


THE  CHIL-NOO-AL-NA  FALLS. 

The  beautiful  pen  drawing  on  the  adjoining  page,  kindly 
made  by  Mr.  Thos.  Hill  for  this  work,  will  tell  how  richly  a visit 
there  will  be  repaid,  by  either  walking  or  riding  the  two  miles 
of  distance  from  the  hotel. 

Another  compensating  and  satisfying  sally  from  Wawona 

is  to 

SIGNAL  PEAK, 

The  name  given  to  the  highest  point  of  the  Chow-chilla  Mountains, 
lying  westerly  from  the  hotel.  This  suggestive  nomenclature  was 
given  to  it  owing  to  the  Indians  having  made  choice  of  that  point 
as  a signal  station,  from  which  to  telegraph,  by  fire  and  smoke, 
to  ah  their  Indian  allies,  both  far  and  near,  any  message  they 
might  wish  to  send.  Its  commanding  outlook  will  at  once  com- 
mend their  choice  for  the  selection.  The  accompanying  engraving, 
also  from  a sketch  by  Mr.  Hill,  significantly  indicates  the  wonder- 
ful panorama  rolled  out  before  us  from  that  glorious  scenic  stand- 
point, when  looking  east.  On  any  clear  day  every  deep  gorge, 
and  element-chiseled  furrow,  every  lofty  peak,  and  storm-defying 
crag,  of  the  great  chain  of  the  Sierras,  for  a radius  of  nearly  one 
hundred  miles,  is  distinctly  visible  to  the  naked  eye.  It  is  one  vast 
sea  of  mountains,  whose  storm-crested  waves  tell  of  their  billowy 
upheaval  by  elemental  forces,  and  suggest  that  they  were  after- 
wards suddenly  cooled,  and  solidified  into  rock,  when  in  most  vio- 
lent ebullition;  and  that  while  the  impressive  individuality  of 
each  culminating  crest  is  measurably  dwarfed  by  distance,  the 
general  effect  of  the  whole  is  inexplicably  enhanced  by  the  won- 
derful combination. 

Looking  west  how  suddenly  the  scene  changes  from  storm  to 
calm ; for,  while  the  near  mountain  ridges,  which  form  the  fore- 
ground to  the  picture,  remind  us  of  the  former,  the  receding 
foot-hills,  and  .broad  valleys  peacefully  stretching  to  the  horizon, 
tell  only  of  the  latter;  so  that  the  one  by  contrast,  exalts  the 
impressiveness  of  the  other,  and  provides,  as  a whole,  a satisfying 
“ feast  of  good  things,  of  wines  on  the  lees,  well  refined,”  that  will 


THE  SIERRAS  FROM  SIGNAL  PEAK. 


270 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


be  pleasantly  remembered  as  long  as  memory  reigns  queen  upon 
her  throne. 

LESSER  POINTS  OF  INTEREST  AROUND  WAWONA. 

Such  as  the  excellent  trout  fishing  in  the  south  fork  of  the 
Merced,  that  runs  directly  past  the  hotel ; the  walk  to  the  Fish 
Pond,  and  boat  ride  upon  it ; visit  to  Hill’s  Point,  for  the  distant 
view  of  Chil-noo-al-na  Falls;  the  Soda  Spring,  and  grove  of  young 
Sequoias  near ; and  other  places  of  interest,  which  not  only  enable 
visitors  to  spend  their  time  pleasantly  here,  but  become  sufficiently 
attractive  to  induce  many  to  tarry  months  at  Wawona,  and  some 
for  the  whole  summer.  The  cheery  liveliness  of  its  constantly 
changing*  throng  of  visitors ; its  salubrious  and  exhilarating: 
climate ; the  balmy  fragrance  of  its  surrounding  pine  forests,  and 
charming  variety  of  scenery,  would  seem  to  unite  in  making  this 
a most  delightful  resort  for  invalids. 

But  as  the  glorious  scenes  of  the  Yo  Semite  are  in  immediate 
prospect,  and  as  anticipation  has  long  been  on  tiptoe  to  enter 
their  sublime  precincts,  let  us  cross  the  South  Fork  Bridge  at 
Wawona,  and  start  at  once  upon  our  deeply  interesting  journey. 

Following  the  eastern  bank  of  that  stream  for  about  a mile, 
we  commence  the  gradual  ascent  of  a long  hill,  the  outlook  from 
which  is  everywhere  full  of  inspiriting  pleasure.  On  both  sides 
of  the  road  the  gossamer,  floss-like  blossoms  of  the  Mountain  Ma- 
hogany, Cercocarpus  ledifolius;  the  Manzanita,  Arctostaphylos 
glauca  (What  a name  for  such  a beautiful  shrub !)  with  its  pinkish- 
white,  wax-like,  and  globe-shaped  blossoms,  hanging  in  bunches, 
challenge  our  admiration.  But,  on  we  roll,  the  landscape  broaden- 
ing and  the  gulches,  like  our  interest,  deepening  as  we  ascend, 
until  we  come  to  “Lookout  Point.”  Here  grandeur  culminates, 
and  an  admonition  spontaneously  finds  its  way  to  the  lips,  “ Oh ! 
driver,  please  to  stop  here  just  one  minute  for  this  marvelous  view.  ” 
This  is  five  thousand  five  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  sea  level. 

Before  long  the  darkening  forest  shadows  we  are  entering 
remind  us  that  we  shall  soon  be  at  Eleven  Mile  Station,  and  at 
“ West  Woods.”  West  Woods  is  the  name  given  to  Mr.  John  W. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


271 


Woods,  an  open-faced  and  kindly-hearted  hunter,  who  makes  this 
his  lonely  abiding-place  both  winter  and  summer.  A short  dis- 
tance beyond  this  we  attain  the  highest  point  on  the  road,  six 
thousand  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the  sea.  About  half 
a mile  further  on  we  arrive  at  Chinquapin  Flat,  where  the  diverg- 
ing road  for  Glacier  Point,  fourteen  miles  distant,  leaves  the  main 
one.  From  here  every  step  towards  Yo  Semite  is  constantly  alter- 
nating and  changing  in  scenic  grandeur ; now  we  emerge  from 
forest  shades  to  open  glades ; then  look  into  the  deep  canon  of  the 
Merced  River ; then  upon  the  leaping  tributaries  of  Cascade  Creek ; 
until,  at  last,  we  come  to  that  unspeakably  glorious  view  which 
suddenly  breaks  upon  us  at 

INSPIRATION  POINT. 

Here  language  fails;  for  neither  the  pencil’s  creative  power, 
the  painter’s  eliminating  art,  photography,  pen,  or  human  tongue, 
can  adequately  portray  the  scene  of  unutterable  sublimity  that 
is  now  out-rolled  before  us.  Longfellow’s  beautiful  thought 
seems  uppermost:  “ Earth  has  built  the  great  watch-towers  of 
the  mountains,  and  they  lift  their  heads  far  into  the  sky,  and 
gaze  ever  upward  -and  around  to  see  if  the  Judge  of  the  World 
comes  not  ” — even  while  we  are  en trancedly  waiting. 

Deep  down  in  the  mountain-walled  gorge  before  us  sleeps  the 
great  Y alley.  Its  beautiful  glades,  its  peacefully  glinting  river,  its 
dark  green  pines,  its  heavily  timbered  slopes;  all  hemmed-in, 
bounded,  by  cliff-encompassing  domes,  and  spires ; with  crags  and 
peaks,  from  three  to  five  thousand  feet  in  height,  and  over 
wdiich  there  gracefully  leap  the  most  charming  of  water-falls,  from 
nine  hundred  to  three  thousand  feet  in  height  above  the  mead- 
ows. While  “the  laurel-crowned  king  of  the  vale,”  grand  old 
El  Capitan,  with  a vertical  mountain  cleavage  of  three  thousand 
three  hundred  feet,  stands  out  most  nobly  defiant, and  asserts  the  im- 
pressive individuality  of  his  wonderful  presence;  while  over  all  of 
these  an  atmospheric  veil  of  ethereal  purple  haze  is  enchantingly 
thrown,  with  the  whole  bathed  in  sunshine,  to  heighten  the  general 
loveliness  of  the  scene.  No  change  of  time  or  circumstance  can 
ever  efface  from  memory  this  glorious  first  glimpse  of  Yo  Semite. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


THE  MADERA  ROUTE  TO  YO  SEMITE. 

Go  abroad 

Upon  the  paths  of  Nature,  and,  when  all 
Its  voices  whisper,  and  its  silent  things 
Are  breathing  the  deep  beauty  of  the  world, 

Kneel  at  its  simple  altar,  and  the  God 
Who  hath  the  living  waters  shall  be  there. 

— -N.  P.  Willis. 

Pleasures  lie  thickest  where  no  pleasures  seem; 

There’s  not  a leaf  that  falls  upon  the  ground 
But  holds  some  joy,  of  silence  or  of  sound, 

Some  sprite  begotten  of  a summer’s  dream. 

— Blanchard’s  Hidden  Joys. 

This  route,  like  the  Berenda,  lies  up  the  great  valley  of  the 
San  Joaquin,  seven  miles  beyond  the  former  starting-point,  to 
Madera,  a town  probably  of  about  five  hundred  inhabitants.  We 
are  now  upon  historic  ground,  as  here  the  famous  Fresno  Indian 
Reservation  was  founded;  and,  about  nine  miles  above  where 
Madera  now  stands,  was  the  place  of  general  rendezvous  for  all 
the  Indians  gathered  in,  after  the  Mariposa  Indian  war  of  1851-52 ; 
for  the  Indian  Commission,  and  the  officers  and  men  forming  the 
Mariposa  Battalion.  Then,  it  was  one  vast  stretch  of  country 
without  a building  upon  it,  or  any  other  sign  of  civilization — if 
we  except  those  made  necessary  by  the  needs  of  reservation  life — 
now  it  is  dotted  in  all  directions  with  farm-houses  and  gardens, 
orchards  and  vineyards,  with  cultivated  fields,  and  succulent 
pastures,  on  every  hand;  with  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  run- 
ning through  and  among  them.  Let  their  enemies  say  what  they 
may,  these  railroads  are  rapidly  assisting  development,  and  pro- 
gress, wheresoever  their  iron  bands  may  extend. 

(272) 


THE  MADERA  ROUTE, 

From  San  Francisco , via  Lathrop , Merced , Madera , Fresno  Flats,  and  Mariposa 
Big  Tree  Station  ( Clark's ),  to  Barnard's  Hotel , Yo  Semite  Valley . 

Stations  marked  (as)  are  stopping  places  at  night  for  stage  passengers;  those  marked  (b) 
are  hotels,  or  where  meals  can  be  had;  those  marked  ( c ) are  where  hay  and  grain  are  obtainable; 
those  marked  (d)  are  stage  stations. 


Distances  in  Miles 


STATIONS. 

Between  Consecutive 
Points  

From  San  Francisco- • 

To  San  Francisco 

I Altitude,  in  feet,  above 
Sea  Level 

By  R ai tway. 

1 

185.03 

From  San  Francisco  to — 

Lathrop,  junction  of  the  Southern  Pacific  with  the  Central  Pa- 

cific Railroad  (be) 

94*03 

94- °3 

91.00 

28 

Merced,  on  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  (be) 

58,00 

152.03 

33-oo 

I7I 

Madera,  on  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  (abed) 

33*oo 

185.03 

280 

By  Carriage  Road. 

95*35 

From  Madera  to — 

Adobe  Station,  Stitts’  (be) 

9*25 

9*25 

86.10 

325 

Mudgett’s  Ranch  (be) 

9*25 

18.50 

76.85 

597 

Green’s  Ranch  (bed) 

6.50 

25.00 

70*35 

1,100 

Kron’s,  Coarse  Gold  Gulch  (bed) 

!3-50 

38.50 

56.85 

2,085 

Fresno  Flats  (be) 

6.50 

45*oo 

50-35 

2,192 

Bufford’s  (be) 

5.00 

50.00 

45*35 

3,260 

Board  Ranch  (bed) 

8.00 

58.00 

37-36 

4.639 

Summit  of  Chowchilla  Mountain 

3.60 

61.60 

33-76 

5.005 

Forks  of  road  to  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Groves 

3*33 

£<•43 

30.43 

5,062 

Big  Tree  Station,  Clark’s  (a  b c d )*  . . . 

3-47 

68.40 

26.96 

3.925 

Eleven  Mile  Station  (bed) 

10.76 

79.16 

16.20 

5.567 

El  Capitan  Bridge,  Yosemite  Valley 

i2-57 

9i-73 

3-63 

3.926 

Leidig’s  Hotel,  Yosemite  Valley  (abed)  

2. 

07.  20 

1.07 

Cook’s  Hotel,  Yosemite  Valley  (a  b c d) 

0.  30 

y / y 
07.  ^0 

o-77 

Barnard’s  Hotel,  Yosemite  Valley  (abed) 

0.77 

7 / Dy 

98.36 

3.934 

* From  Big  Tree  Station  (Clark’s)  to  and  through  the  Mariposa  Big  Trees  and  back  to  sta- 
tion, seventeen  miles. 


RECAPITULATION. 


By  railway 185.03  miles. 

By  carriage  road 95-35  “ 

To  Big  Tree  Groves  and  return 17.00  “ 


Total  distance 298. 32  miles. 


274 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


THE  TOWN  OF  MADERA. 

After  the  completion  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  through 
this  section,  the  California  Lumber  Company  was  organized,  for 
the  purpose  of  tapping  the  extraordinary  growth  of  timber  that 
was  found  to  exist  in  the  Fresno  Grove,  and  for  bringing  its  lum- 
ber down  to  the  market  created  by  the  railroad.  Saw-mills  were 
accordingly  erected  in  that  vicinity;  but,  as  its  great  distance 
from  market  precluded  the  possibility  of  its  successful  delivery 
there  by  ordinary  conveyance,  a flume  was  constructed,  fifty- 
four  miles  in  length,  at  an  original  cost  of  $375,000,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  floating  it  down.  This  will  readily  be  seen  at  numerous 
points  on  the  route.  As  soon  as  this  was  completed,  the  mills 
were  put  working  to  their  fullest  capacity;  and  lumber,  to  the 
extent  of  one  hundred  thousand  feet  per  day,  was  started  upon 
its  meandering  voyage  to  the  depot.  The  business  connected 
with  this  enterprise  became  the  inception  of  the  now  prosperous 
town  of  "Madera” — Madera  being  Spanish  for  lumber.  And 
for  the  purpose  of  meeting  the  wants  of  the  people  settling  along 
the  line  of  the  railroad  from  here  to  Mew  Mexico,  the  sugar  and 
yellow  pine,  fir,  and  big  tree  wood,  were  converted  into  doors, 
blinds,  sashes,  etc.  Here  it  may  be  said,  in  parenthesis,  that  the 
largest  of  the  Big  Trees,  being  found  altogether  too  large  for  ad- 
vantageous  handling  in  lumber  manufacturing,  were  allowed  to 
remain  undisturbed?  Two  hundred  men  are  employed  in  this 
industry.  They  saw  off  the  trees  at  the  ground  with  the  ordinary 
cross-cut  saw,  instead  of  chopping  them  down,  as  formerly. 

There  is  a lumber  yard  of  forty  acres,  through  which  there  are 
roads  and  railroads  in  all  directions,  and  to  lumber  piles  of  all  sizes 
and  kinds.  Near  the  terminus  of  the  Hume  it  is  divided  into  two 
branches,  each  of  which  is  provided  with  a separate  reservoir,  into 
which  the  lumber  is  floated  from  the  mountains;  although  most 
of  it  is  removed  directly  from  the  flume,  placed  ujDon  trucks,  and 
then  run  upon  tramways  to  the  location  desired.  The  waste- 
water,  after  being  relieved  of  its  cargo,  is  distributed  in  different 
directions,  and  sold  for  irrigation  purposes. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


275 


This  enterprise  naturally  formed  the  stimulating  nucleus  for 
the  commencement  of  others;  and  farms  and  farm  buildings 
sprung  into  existence;  and  with  them  the  store  and  hotel,  the 
blacksmith  shop,  and  other  creations  of  industrial  development. 
So  that  now  there  are  numerous  stores,  post-office,  Wells,  Fargo  & 
Co’s,  express  office,  a commodious  hotel,  saloons;  and  long  lines  of 
business  places  of  all  kinds  needed  in  a thriving  community,  in- 
cluding a printing  office  and  newspaper. 

For  many  years  Madera  was  the  principal  station  on  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  for  the  departure  of  tourists  for  the  Yo 
Semite  Yalley  and  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Groves;  but,  since  the  con- 
struction of  the  Yo  Semite  branch  railroad,  from  Berenda  to  Ray- 
mond, that  business  has  naturally  been  transferred  thither.  Owing, 
however,  to  its  convenience  of  location,  and  the  excellence  of  the 
mountain  roads  leading  therefrom  to  the  great  sights  beyond, 
Madera  will  continue  to  be  the  principal  place  of  departure  for  all 
persons  traveling  by  private  teams.  A short  distance  above  this 
was  once  a very  favorite  place  for  rodeos * and  for  rancheros. 

LASSOING  AND  BRANDING  THEIR  CATTLE. 

Before  gold  was  discovered  in  California  its  main  wealth 
seemed  to  consist  in  its  cattle  and  horses,  the  former  being  slaugh- 
tered  almost  exclusively  for  their  hides  and  tallow,  which  then 
formed  about  the  only  articles  of  export.  As  there  were  no  fences 
in  those  days,  all  animals  were  allowed  to  roam  wheresoever  they 
chose;  generally  between  defined  bounds,  as  between  rivers,  or 
mountain  ranges;  and  every  spring  their  different  owners,  with 
their  vaqueros  (all  well  mounted),  would  sally  out  on  a given  day, 
scour  the  whole  district  assigned  to  them,  and  drive  every  animal 
found  within  it  to  the  spot  designated  for  the  rodeo . Others 
would  do  the  same  for  districts  assigned  to  them,  until  every 
animal  ranging  at  large  was  collected  together. 

This  accomplished,  all  would  assemble  around  a large  camp- 
fire for  social  pleasures,  and  spend  the  remainder  of  the  day  in 

* Rodeo  is  a Spanish  word,  generally  applied  to  the  place  and  annual  gathering 
in  of  cattle  and  horses,  for  the  purpose  of  counting  and  branding  them. 


RANCHEROS  LASSOING  CATTLE, 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


frolicking  or  feasting.  Sometimes  these  indulgences  would  con- 
tinue for  a number  of  days,  before  commencing  upon  the  business 
which  had  brought  them  together.  Finally,  however,  they  would 
settle  down  to  their  exciting  work.  Every  ranch ero  had  and 
knew  the  particular  brand  which  belonged  to  him,  and  which  was 
well  understood  and  conceded  by  every  one  present.  But,  wher- 
ever there  was  a single  doubt  about  that,  the  animal  in  question 
was  immediately  lassoed,  as  shown  in  the  accompanying  illustra- 
tion, thrown  upon  the  ground,  and  examined.  This  satisfactorily 
determined,  every  calf  or  colt  that  followed  its  mother,  was  un- 
hesitatingly conceded  to  belong  to  the  same  owner,  and  was  ac- 
cordingly branded  with  the  red-hot  iron  which  formed  the  brand. 
Sometimes  this  was  a character  (somewhat  after  the  Chinese 
pattern)  and  at  others  a letter — generally  the  initial  of  the  family 
name.  After  the  counting  and  branding,  each  drove  would  be 
driven  back  to  its  usual  range,  and  there  left  to  look  out  for 
itself  until  the  next  spring.  Occasionally  there  would  be  two 
rodeos  a year,  but  not  often. 

As  our  road  lies  over  gently  undulating  hills  near  the  Fresno 
River,  we  have  frequent  and  refreshing  glances  of  its  willows 
and  cottonwoods ; and  the  bright  green  verdure  of  its  meadow 
land,  confessedly  somewhat  limited;  with  the  V"  flume  on  its  sin- 
uous course  at  our  side,  bearing  its  freight  of  lumber  down  to  the 
railroad. 

Soon  the  white  post  oaks  and  numerous  shrubs,  begin  to  dot 
the  landscape.  Then  we  enter  the  canon  of  Coarse  Gold  Gulch — 
one  of  the  historic  places  of  early  days — and  find  the  music  of  its 
gurgling  waters,  and  the  shadows  of  its  alder  and  black  oak  trees, 
most  pleasantly  diverting  until  we  reach  the  little  village  of  the 
same  name,  and  its  hotel,  where  the  inner  man  can  be  regaled  and 
the  outer  man  refreshed.  Here  we  have  attained  an  altitude  of 
two  thousand  and  eighty-five  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

After  climbing  a dividing  ridge  of  the  Fresno  River,  nearly  a 
thousand  feet  above  the  gulch,  we  again  descend  to  a pretty  little 
hill-encompassed  town,  known  every  where  as  Fresno  Flats.  This 


278 


IN’  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


is  supported,  mainly,  by  lumbering,  farming,  mining,  and  stock- 
raising.  Being  the  business  center  of  a number  of  small  settle- 
ments around  it,  the  principal  street  is  fairly  alive  with  teams, 
saddle-horses,  bustling  men  and  men  of  leisure;  with  the  custom- 
ary complement  of  Indians  and  dogs,  found  at  nearly  every  foot- 
hill outpost  of  civilization  throughout  the  State.  More  recently 
a number  of  gold-bearing  quartz  ledges  have  been  found  in  the 
adjacent  hills,  which,  when  developed,  will  make  an  acceptable 
addition  to  the  prosperity  of  the  town.  But, 

“ Onward,  and  upward,  let  our  course  be.” 

Before  advancing  far  upon  our  journey,  we  enter  the  glorious 
forests  of  the  Sierra,  which  deservedly  attract  the  wondering 
admiration  of  every  traveler ; these,  diversified  by  broad  openings 
and  impressive  glimpses  of  landscape,  continue  every  foot  of  the 
way  to  Wawona.  The  highest  portion  of  the  Chow-chilla  Range 
crossed  upon  this  road  is  near  the  saw-mill  at  Fish  Springs,  which 
is  five  thousand  one  hundred  and  seven  feet  above  sea  level.  This 
entire  section  is  remarkably  attractive  to  camping  parties,  desir- 
ous of  exchanging  the  hot  air  of  the  plains  for  the  deliciously  cool 
atmosphere  of  the  mountains,  owing  to  the  dense  growth  of  its 
forests,  the  little  patches  of  grassy  meadows,  and  the  leaping 
waters  of  Big  Creek  being  literally  alive  with  trout.  Some  fami- 
lies spend  the  whole  summer  here,  at  the  Big  Tree  Groves,  and 
on  the  mountains  bordering  the  Yo  Semite.  The  only  detraction 
to  this,  as  of  other  mountain  fastnesses,  is  from  the  immense 
droves  of  sheep  passing  over,  eating  up  every  green  thing  (includ- 
ing beautiful  lilies,  and  other  flowering  plants),  and  leaving  a 
desert  behind  them.  Nor  is  this  all,  for  as  neither  deer  nor  any 
other  game  will  feed  after  sheep,  they  naturally  and  necessarily 
seek  other  pastures.  Then  to  this  must  be  added  the  infamous 
practice  of  sheep-herders  setting  the  forests  on  fire — the  unprinci- 
pled return  for  being  allowed  to  pasture  their  flocks  upon  the 
public  domain,  free  of  every  kind  of  charge.  This  route  inter- 
secting those  of  Berenda  and  Mariposa,  as  before  stated,  at  Wa- 
wona, they  are  thence  necessarily  continued  conjointly. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


THE  COULTERVILLE  ROUTES. 

Nature  never  did  betray 
The  heart  that  loved  her. 

— Wordsworth’s  Tintern  Ahbey.. 

Converse  with  men  makes  sharp  the  glittering  wit, 

But  God  to  man  doth  speak  in  solitude. 

— J ohn  Stuart  Blackie. 

He  prayeth  best,  who  loveth  best 
All  things,  both  great  and  small. 

— Coleridge’s  Ancient  Mariner. 


As  on  the  Berencla  Route  our  course  lies  up  the  valley  of  the- 
San  Joaquin,  to  either  Modesto  or  Merced.  We  can  make  either 
of  these  towns  the  place  of  departure  for  Coulterville  and  Yo 
Semite.  If  we  have  chosen  the  former,  the  first  place  reached,  we 
shall  find  it  a goodly-sized  town,  full  of  energetic  people;  and  the 
usual  accompaniments  of  a very  prosperous  business  community 
of  about  seventeen  hundred  inhabitants,  including  good  hotel  ac- 
commodations (an  important  consideration  just  now,  as  we  have 
to  spend  the  night  here).  Modesto  is  the  county  seat  of  Stanis- 
laus County. 

But,  if  we  have  preferred  to  take  the  Coulterville  Route  to 
Yo  Semite  via  Merced,  we  keep  our  seat  in  the  railroad  car  for 
about  an  hour  and  a half  longer,  and  then  alight  at  the  El  Capitan 
Hotel,  Merced,  where  wTe  shall  forget  ourselves  in  sleep.  This 
is  the  county  town  of  Merced  County,  and  a thriving  city  of  one 
thousand  nine  hundred  inhabitants;  with  all  the  usual  accessories 
of  business,  amusement,  and  education ; and  is  the  center  of  a re- 
markably fertile  farming  district. 

Leaving  the  Southern  Pacific  at  either  Modesto  or  Merced,  by 

stage,  we  pass  over  a farming  region  and  rolling  country,  devoted 

(279) 


THE  COULTERVILLE  ROUTE, 

From  San  Francisco , via  Lathrop , Merced , or  Modesto,  Coulterville , and  Merced 
Grove  of  Big  Trees , to  Yo  Semite  Valley. 

Stations  marked  ( a ) are  stopping  places  at  night  for  stage  passengers;  those  marked  (b)  are 
hotels,  or  where  meals  can  be  had;  those  marked  ( c ) are  where  hay  and  grain  are  obtainable; 
those  marked  (d)  are  stage  stations. 

STATIONS. 

In 

p Between 

consecutive 
points. 

rANCES 
p 0 

0 g 

8 jjp 

0 g 

IN  Ml 

*3  ! 
<°  w 
ELcn*? 

0 

Altitude,  in 
. feet,  above 

W Sea  Level. 

j 

By  Railway . 

152-03 

Fro  711  San  Francisco  to — 

Lathrop,  junction  of  the  Southern  Pacific  with  the  Central  Pa- 

cific  Railroad  (be)......... 

94-03 

94  03 

58.00 

28 

58.00 

152*03 

171 

By  Carriage  Road. 

93.66 

From  Merced  to — 

Halfway  House,  watering  place  (be). 

6-35 

6*35 

87-31 

215 

Snelling’s  (be) 

12.60 

18.95 

74-71 

252 

Merced  Falls  (be) . . 

4-58 

23-53 

70.13 

360 

J unction  Station  (be)... 

5-8x 

29-34 

64.32 

578 

Lebright’s  Ranch  (bed.) 

5-53 

34-87 

58.79 

995 

Herbeck’s  (be) 

5-74 

40.61 

53-05 

1,621 

Coulterville  (be)  ... 

5-57 

46.18 

47.48 

1,665 

Dudley’s  Hotel  and  Ranch  (abed) 

7-58 

53.76 

39-9° 

2,959 

Bower  Cave  (be) 

4.69 

58.45 

35-2i 

2, 360 

Wenger’s  Ranch  (be) 

3 23 

61.68 

31.98 

3,218 

Watering  trough 

4.00 

65  68 

27.98 

4,120 

Hazel  Green  (bed) 

5-51 

71.19 

22.47 

5>55o 

Forks  of  road  to  Crane  Flat 

0.36 

7i-55 

22. 11 

| 5,502 

Merced  Grove  Big  Trees 

2.80 

74-35 

i9-3i 

5,327 

Big  Meadows  (bed) 

8-45 

82.80 

10.86 

4,237 

Junction  of  Coulterville  Road  with  Merced  River  Trail 

4 59 

87-39 

6.27 

3,352 

Forks  of  Coulterville  and  Fig  Oak  Flat  Roads 

2.6l 

QO  OO 

3.66 

T,eidipr’s  Hotel  (n  h r d)  

2.  SO 

y 

02,  SO 

O' 

1.07 

Cook’s  Hotel  (abed)  

* J7 
0.30 
0.77 

7 J7 

92.89 

A.  j 

O.77 

Barnard’s  Hotel  (n.  h r.  d) , 

03.66 

3,934 

By  Railway. 

'-''ll 

7J 

From  San  Francisco  to — 

Lathrop,  junction  of  Southern  Pacific  with  Central  Pacific  R.  R. 

04.0^ 

Modesto,  on  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  

7T  O 

20.00 

114.03 

By  Carriage  Road. 

From  Modesto  to — 

Waterford  , , t T . . . „ r . . . . . ... 

.12 

.12 

Horr’s  Ranch  

.08 

.20 

La  Grange 

.08 

.28 

Lebright’s „ . 

. IO 

.38 

Coulterville 

. 12 

•5° 

RECAPITULATION. 


By  railway  to  Merced 152.03  miles. 

By  carriage  road  from  Merced  to  Yo  Semite 93-66  “ 

Total  distance  via  Merced  245.69  miles. 

By  railway  to  Modesto  . .114.03  miles. 

By  carriage  road,  Modesto  via  Coulterville  to  Yo  Semite  99.46  “ 

Total  distance  via  Modesto 212.44  miles. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


281 


mainly  to  the  raising  of  wheat;  with  the  great  chain  of  the 
Sierras  in  full  view  before  us.  On  the  Modesto  branch  we  cross 
the  Tuolumne  River  near  La  Grange,  and  on  the  Merced  branch 
cross  the  Merced  River  at  Snelling.  A few  miles  above  the 
former  village  the  fossil  remains  of  an  immense  mastodon  were 
found,  imbedded  in  the  auriferous  gravel  of  the  mine,  some  ten 
feet  below  the  surface,  beneath  an  oak  tree  three  feet  in  diameter. 
The  accompanying  illustration,  sketched  from  nature,  will  indicate 
its  character. 

This  tooth  measured  six  inches  and  three-quarters  across  it, 
by  eight  and  a half  inches  from  front  to  back ; and  the  longest 


FOSSILIZED  MASTODON’S  TOOTH,  AND  PORTION  OF  JAW. 


fang,  or  root,  was  eight  and  a quarter  inches  in  depth,  from  the 
upper  to  the  lower  surface  of  the  jaw,  reaching  nearly  through 
the  jaw-bone.  The  tooth  stood  above  the  upper  surface  of  the 
jaw  about  two  inches.  The  knee-joint  of  this  huge  animal  was 
about  four  times  the  size  of  that  of  the  largest  ox. 

Soon  after  crossing  both  the  Tuolumne  and  Merced  Rivers, 
the  beautiful  natural  parks  of  the  foot-hills  of  the  Sierra,  lying 
between  the  two  rivers,  are  entered,  consisting  mostly  of  “ digger” 
or  “ bull  ” pines,  Pinus  Sctbiniana;  white  post  oaks,  Quercus 
Douglasii;  and  black  oaks,  Quercus  Kelloggii;  with  numerous 
shrubs  and  flowers  interspersed  between,  until  our  arrival  at 
Goulterville,  a mining  town  of  Mariposa  County,  one  thousand 
eight  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  But  a few  miles  before  arriv- 


282 


W THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


ing  there,  near  to  the  Dutch  Boys’  Ranch,  as  it  is  called,  there  is 
frequently  to  be  seen  a very  singular  bird,  that  invites  special 
attention,  and  which  is  known  as 


THE  CALIFORNIA  ROAD-RUNNER,  UeOCOCCtJX  CtlUfomianUS. 

This  strange  and  rare  bird,  peculiar  to  California  and  some 
portions  of  Mexico,  is  sometimes  called  the  Ground  Cuckoo,  to 
which  family  it  belongs.  At  first  sight  it  might  be  supposed  to 
be  a new  kind  of  pheasant,  so  striking  is  the  resemblance  in  color 
and  pattern  of  plumage  to  that  genus ; but  upon  closer  examina- 
tion it  is  soon  discovered  to  be  unlike  it  in  every  particular. 
Owing'  to  its  exceeding  shvness  and  uncommon  scarcity,  there  is 
probably  less  known  about  this  singular  species  than  almost  any 
other.  The  late  Mr.  A.  J.  Grayson,  a loving  student  of  ornithol- 
ogy, succeeded  in  catching,  unobserved,  the  expression  of  eye  and 
attitude  of  this  bird  just  when  preparing  to  spring,  and  kindly 
sent  me  the  sketch  and  accompanying  notes: — 

So  far  as  I am  acquainted,  the  Road-runner,  or,  as  it  is  called  in 
Spanish,  Courier  del  Camino,  or  Pisano , lias  not  been  described  by  any 
ornithologist.  It  is  a distinct  and  isolated  species  from  all  other  birds, 
roaming  about  over  barren  plains  and  hills  in  search  of  lizards,  snakes, 
and  other  reptiles,  upon  which  it  preys.  It  is  almost  always  seen  upon 
the  ground,  seldom  in  trees,  unless  pursued  very  closely,  when  it  has  been 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


283 


seen  to  spring  from  the  ground  to  the  branches,  a height  of  from  ten  to 
fifteen  feet,  at  a single  bound,  but  prefers  running  along  a road  or  path; 
from  which  habit  it  derives  its  name.  When  discovered,  it  instantly 
runs  off,  with  remarkable  fleetness,  to  the  nearest  thicket  or  hill,  where  it 
generally  escapes  its  pursuers,  either  by  hiding,  or  by  sailing  from  one  hill 
to  another.  It  is  very  quick  in  its  motions — active  and  vigilant;  indeed 
its  remarkable  swiftness  enables  it  to  outstrip  a horse. 

The  most  remarkable  feature  about  it  is  its  feet,  these  being  more  like 
those  of  clinging  birds,  such  as  the  woodpecker  or  parrot,  having  two  toes 
before,  and  two  behind,  armed  with  sharp  claws.  Its  legs  being  strong 
and  muscular,  make  it  well  adapted  for  running. 

Its  plumage  is  rather  coarse  and  rough,  of  a dusky  hue,  marked  with 
white  and  brownish  specks  on  the  neck  and  upper  parts,  while  under- 
neath, it  is  of  a dirty  white.  The  tail  is  long,  the  bill  strong  and  slightly 
curved,  eye  of  a greyish  brown,  the  pupil  encircled  by  a light-colored  ring. 
A bare  space  extends  from  the  eye  to  the  back  of  the  neck,  of  a pale  blu- 
ish color  tinged  with  red.  The  specimen  I have  now  before  me  measures 
twenty-three  inches  from  the  tip  of  his  bill  to  the  end  of  his  tail.  The 
tail  is  eleven  and  a quarter  inches,  the  bill  two  and  a half  inches.  I have 
frequently  met  with  this  bird  in  my  travels  over  the  country,  and  have 
never  seen  one  in  company  with  any  other  bird,  either  of  its  own  or  any 
other  kind.  It  is  excessively  shy  and  solitary,  inhabiting  the  wildest  and 
most  unfrequented  places.  It  has  no  song  to  cheer  its  solitude.  At  times 
it  utters  a harsh  note,  not  unlike  the  sudden  twirl  of  a watchman’s  rattle 

One  of  these  birds  in  my  possession  is  becoming  quite  tame,  and 
readily  feeds  upon  any  kind  of  raw  meat;  but  prefers  lizards  and  small 
birds,  which  it  swallows  whole — feathers  and  all.  If  given  to  him  alive, 
he  will  play  with  them  awhile  before  swallowing  them,  just  as  a cat  will 
do  with  a mouse.  I have  seen  him  devour  three  sparrows,  one  lizard,  and 
a portion  of  the  breast  of  a coot,  for  his  breakfast,  without  experiencing 
any  inconvenience.  It  is  exceedingly  ravenous;  and,  like  all  birds  of 
that  class,  has  a disagreeable  odor;  and  should,  I think,  be  placed  in  the 
order  of  rapacious  birds. 

J ust  before  entering  Coulterville,  some  three  miles  northwest- 
erly, the  croppings  of  an  immense  gold-bearing  quartz  ledge  stand 
boldly  out  at  Penon  Blanco  (a  mountain  of  white  rock) ; and  the 
vein  is  crossed  within  rifle-shot  of  the  hotels.  This  lode  is 
the  most  remarkable  one,  in  size  and  lineal  extent,  of  any  one 
yet  found  in  California,  as  it  can  be  distinctly  traced  from  the 
middle  of  Amador  County  to  the  center  of  Mariposa  County,  a 


284 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


distance  of  seventy -five  miles,  by  its  stupendous  croppings.  It  is 
estimated  that  the  various  quartz  mines  on  this  lode,  within  the 
limit  stated,  have  yielded  $40,000,000  in  gold.  As  this  “ Mother 
Vein,”  as  it  is  called,  crosses  Maxwell’s  Creek  just  below  the  town 
of  Coulterville,  a visit  can  be  paid  it  while  the  coach  is  stopping 
for  the  assortment  of  the  mail. 


tarantulas,  Aranea  Tarentula. 

Here,  too,  perhaps  some  enterprising  boy  or  man  may  bring 
a tarantula’s  nest  to  show  us ; and  as  we  examine  the  peculiarly 

unique  manner  of  its  con- 
struction, we  naturally 
wish  to  know  more  con- 
cerning its  architect  and 
builder.  The  tarantula, 
then  (so  called  from  Ta- 
ranto, in  Italy,  from 
whence  the  first  speci- 
mens were  obtained  by 
entomologists),  evidently 
belongs  to  the  spider  fam- 
ily, although  the  nest  is 
out  of  the  ordinary  style 
of  such  insects.  I have 
seen  specimens  of  this- 
genus  that  measured  five 
inches  from  the  tip  of  one 
of  its  hairy  legs  to  that 
of  the  other ; with  a body 
two  and  a half  inches  in 
length,  by  one  inch  in  diameter.  Their  appearance  is  both  for- 
midable and  forbidding;  and  they  are  quite  venomous  in  their 
bite.  It  has  eight  legs,  four  on  each  side.  Between  the  two  fore 
legs  there  is  a pair  of  sharp,  serrated  nippers,  which  they  use 
when  seizing  their  prey;  and  in  their  head,  between  these,  are 
two  horny,  sharp,  and  hollow  fangs,  curved  inwardly,  through 
which  a poisonous  fluid  is  projected  when  striking  an  enemy. 


A TARANTULA  S NEST. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


285 


They  live  in  nests  formed  of  clay;  which  is  provided  with  an 
ingeniously  constructed  trap-door,  made  out  of  about  thirty  layers 
of  silk  and  dirt  (the  former  spun  from  their  own  body),  the  inner 
side  of  which  is  also  covered  with  silk,  and  made  water  and  air 
tight.  The  springy  strength  of  the  silken  hinges  of  this  trap- 
door is  sufficient  to  instantly  close  it,  the  moment  the  nest  is 
entered.  As  an  additional  security  to  those  within  there  are 
holes  made  in  the  edges  of  the  door,  into  which  the  tarantula  can 
insert  its  fangs,  and  bolt  himself  in. 

The  tarantula,  like  every  living  tenant  of  this  world,  has  its 
enemy,  in  a large,  hornet-like  fly  called  the  pepsis,  whose  dark 
blue  body,  and  bright  reddish-orange  colored  wings,  enable  the 
curious  to  closely  study  his  movements;  as,  with  unrelenting 
vindictiveness,  he  encompasses  the  helplessness  of  his  victim. 
When  the  pepsis  catches  sight  of  his  prey,  he  swoops  down  upon 
it  with  a viz-z-z-zip,  viz-z-z-zip,  which  he  continues  until  the 
tarantula  is  utterly  paralyzed — not  killed.  This  accomplished,  he 
leaves  the  defenseless  body  where  it  fell,  and  flies  away  for  assist- 
ance. Sometimes  it  is  an  hour  or  more  (I  once  watched  for 
nearly  two  hours  without  results)  before  the  victor  returns  when 
he  brings  with  him  from  three  to  five  coadjutors,  who  push  or  pull 
the  body  forward  until  they  reach  their  nest  (always  built  in 
the  ground),  into  which  the  tarantula  is  unceremoniously  dropped, 
and  then  stowed  away  on  one  side.  It  has  generally  been  sup- 
posed that  this  is  simply  a provision  made  for  food  purposes;  but 
this  is  incorrect,  inasmuch  as  when  the  female  pepsis  has  carefully 
placed  the  paralyzed  tarantula  into  the  corner  desired,  she  then 
punctures  the  body,  deposits  her  eggs  in  the  punctures;  and  the 
warmth  of  the  paralyzed  body  continues  until  the  hatching  proc- 
ess is  completed;  then  the  tarantula  dies,  and  his  decomposing 
body  supplies  the  pabulum  needed  for  the  larvae  and  pupae  of  the 
pepsis , until  they  can  fly  abroad  in  the  earth  to  seek  their  living 
elsewhere.  One  singular  feature  of  this  enemy  of  the  tarantula, 
the  pepsis , is,  that  the  male  dies  immediately  after  sexual  contact. 

Following  up  Maxwell’s  Creek  beyond  Coulterville  for  about 


286 


m THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


two  miles,  we  commence  the  ascent  of  a long  hill,  whence  a 
panorama  of  the  town,  the  foot-hills,  and  the  distant  plains 
opens  up  before  us.  But,  once  upon  its  summit,  the  first  grand 
view  of  the  snow-clad  peaks  of  the  High  Sierra,  the  sources  of 
the  Tuolumne  and  Merced  Rivers,  beyond  Yo  Semite,  is  obtained, 
and  an  altitude  gained  of  three  thousand  five  hundred  feet. 

Now  the  elevated  table-like  flats,  extending  for  miles, 
are  either  under  settlement  and  cultivation,  or  are  occupied  by  a 
bounteous  forest  growth  of  yellow  pine,  Firms  jionclerosa,  and 
the  first  seen  upon  this  route.  Busy  saw-mills,  and  the  wood- 
man’s ax  and  frow  here,  once  gave  both  lumber  and  “ shakes  ” 
(split  boards)  for  the  mines  and  farms,  that  necessarily  depended 
upon  the  mountains  for  their  supplies  of  these;  now,  however,  as 
the  demand  has  nearly  ceased,  the  supply  has  correspondingly 
dwindled  away. 

Winding  our  way  among  timber-clothed  hills  we  soon  arrive  at 
Dudley’s  ranch. 

Where  we  can  spend  the  night.  And  the  moment  we  have  felt 
the  grip  of  Mr.  Dudley’s  manly  hand,  and  looked  into  his  open 
countenance ; or  received  the  undemonstrative  welcome  of  his  pleas- 
ant wife,  there  promptly  comes  a confidence  that  everything  they 
may  or  can  do  for  our  comfort,  will  be  a spontaneous  and  cordial 
act.  I have  entered  many  more  pretentious  way-side  inns  than 
this,  but  have  never  been  better  cared  for,  or  kindlier  treated 
than  here.  If  I can  say  more,  why  please  to  consider  it  said,  and 
I will  thank  you.  Four  miles  above  this  we  come  to 

BOWER  CAVE. 

This  is  a natural  cleft  in  a great  vein  of  limestone,  of  a 
singular  grotto-like  formation,  one  hundred  and  nine  feet  in  depth 
and  length,  and  ninety  feet  in  width,  which  is  entered  by  a pas- 
sage between  rocks,  not  more  than  three  and  a half  feet  wide,  at 
the  northern  end  of  an  opening  in  the  roof,  some  seventy  feet 
long  by  thirteen  feet  wide.  The  sides  of  this  great  cavity  are 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


287 


draped  with  wiJd  grape-vines,  while  through  it  peep  the  tops  of 
tall  maple  trees  that  grow  deep  down  in  the  cave.  When  the 
boughs  of  these  are  drawn  aside,  you  look  into  the  abyss  below, 
where  sleeps  a small  pool  of  water  that  is  forty  feet  deep,  made 
shadowy  and  mysterious  by  overhanging  rocks.  There  is  a boat 

upon  the  pool  for  the 
convenience  of  visitors. 
Side  caverns  opening  in- 
to the  main  cave,  unite 
to  make  this  unique  spot 
a very  desirable  one  to 
visit.  This  is  owned  by 
Mr.  Louis  Pe chart,  a 
Frenchman,  who  is  al- 
ready the  happy  father 
of  some  thirteen  living* 
children. 

BOWER  CAVE, 

CONSTRUCTION  OF  THE  COULTERVILLE  AND  YO  SEMITE  TURNPIKE. 

Here  the  public  road  ends;  but  not  so  the  enterprise  of 
the  Coulterville  people.  Desirous  of  sharing  the  patronage  of  the 
Yo  Semite  travel,  “ The  Coulterville  and  Yosemite  Turnpike 
Company”  was  formed  in  1859,  and  the  road  extended,  by  this 
company,  to  Crane  Flat,  some  eighteen  miles  distant,  at  a cost  of 
about  $15,000. 

But,  as  Yo  Semite  lay  still  far  beyond,  and  both  passengers 
and  freight  had  to  be  transported  thither  on  the  backs  of  horses 
and  mules,  and  over  rough  and  precipitous  trails;  and  although  it 
was  deemed  impracticable,  if  not  impossible,  to  construct  a wagon 
road  down  to  the  floor  of  the  valley,  from  the  high  cliffs  that  mar- 
gined it  in;  and  this  work  could  only  be  accomplished  by  the 
aid  of  the  best  engineering  skill,  after  the  expenditure  of 
large  sums  of  money,  the  Coulterville  and  Yosemite  Turnpike 
Company,  stimulated  to  this  action  by  Dr.  John  T.  McLean,  its 
President  and  largest  stockholder,  under  an  agreement  between 


288 


IN  THE  HEART  OE  THE  SIERRAS. 


said  company  and  the  Yo  Semite  Commissioners  that  the  Coulter- 
ville  Company  should  have  the  exclusive  rights  to  construct,  and 
to  maintain  for  ten  years,  a toll  road  into  the  valley,  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Merced  River,  undertook  the  construction  of  such  a 
road  and  completed  it,  in  accordance  with  the  agreement  above 
named,  on  June  18,  1874,  at  an  expense,  over  and  above  the  ex- 
pense of  that  part  of  the  road  from  Bower  Cave  to  Crane  Flat,  of 
over  $50,000.  Subsequent,  however,  to  the  agreement  above 
mentioned  being  made,  and  to  the  commencement  of  the  survey 
and  construction  of  the  Coulterville  Road  to  Yo  Semite  under  it, 
the  Big  Oak  Flat  and  Yo  Semite  Turnpike  Company  applied  to 
the  Yo  Semite  Commissioners  for  the  privilege  of  extending  their 
road  (already  completed  to  Gentrys,  on  the  northwestern  boundary 
of  the  Yo  Semite  grant),  down  to  the  floor  of  the  valley.  The 
Commissioners  declined  to  grant  this  privilege  to  build  a second 
road  into  Yo  Semite,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Merced  River,  be- 
cause of  the  agreement  they  had  previously  made  with  the  Coul- 
terville Road  Company,  under  which  that  company  had  expended 
money  and  acquired  vested  rights. 

The  Big  Oak  Flat  and  Yo  Semite  Turnpike  Company,  ap- 
plied to  the  State  Legislature,  at  its  next  session,  for  the  privilege 
of  extending  its  road  from  Gentry’s  to  the  level  of  the  Yo  Semite 
Valley,  when  the  Act  was  passed  and  approved  by  the  Governor, 
giving  this  company  the  privilege  asked,  under  which  it  built 
its  road  to  the  level  of  the  valley. 

While  this  Act  of  the  Legislature  may  be  regarded  as  an  act 
of  simple  justice  to  the  Oak  Flat  Road  Company,  which  had 
previously  completed  its  road  to  the  very  edge  of  the  Yo  Semite 
grant,  there  is  no  doubt  that  it  worked  great  pecuniary  damage 
and  loss  to  the  Coulterville  and  Yo  Semite  Turnpike  Company, 
which,  under  its  agreement  with  the  Yo  Semite  Commissioners 
for  an  exclusive  privilege  for  a road  into  Yo  Semite  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Merced  River,  had  expended  many  thousands  of  dollars 
in  the  construction  of  its  road,  and  had  it  nearly  completed,  when 
this  Act  of  the  Legislature,  allowing  a competing  road  to  be 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


289 


built,  was  passed.  But  the  fact  remains,  and  it  is  worthy  of 
special  and  honorable  mention,  that  to  Dr.  John  T.  McLean,  the 
President  of  the  Coulterville  and  Yo  Semite  Turnpike  Company, 
belongs  the  honor  of  making  the  Yo  Semite  Valley  accessible  to 
wheeled  vehicles,  by  the  construction  of  the  first  wagon  road  into 
it.  This  road,  built  and  maintained  by  him  at  great  pecuniary 
loss,  by  reason  of  unexpected  competition  from  the  Big  Oak  Flat 
Road,  is  an  enduring  monument  to  his  energy  and  enterprise. 

SCENERY  ON  THE  ROAD. 

After  leaving  Bower  Cave,  as  we  ascend  the  hill  beyond,  the 
scenery  grows  wilder  and  more  beautiful.  Long  lines  of  heavily 
timbered  ridges,  intersecting  each  other  like  waves  of  the  sea, 
stretch  to  the  horizon  on  every  hand,  with  here  and  there  a tree- 
less peak  that  seems  like  a desert  island  in  an  ocean  of  pines. 
There  is  one  very  noticeable  feature  in  the  scenery  of  the  Sierras, 
it  never  grows  monotonous  or  commonplace,  as  new  views  open 
up  at  every  turn  in  the  road.  For  ten  miles  from  Bower  Cave 
the  rise  is  very  gradual  on  the  southern  slopes  of  Pilot  Peak  Ridge, 
crossing  numerous  streamlets,  until  the  pass  is  reached,  and  an 
altitude  gained  of  five  thousand  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 

PILOT  PEAK 

Is  the  boldly  defiant  cone-shaped  landmark  of  this  section,  rising 
to  the  height  of  seven  hundred  feet  above  the  pass,  with  an 
elevation  of  six  thousand  two  hundred  feet  above  sea  level.  F rom 
its  summit,  to  which  a branch  road  is  built,  all  the  deep  canons 
of  the  Middle  Sierras,  flanked  by  high  ridges  that  are  covered 
with  dense  forests,  are  in  full  view,  while  eastward  are  seen  all 
the  great  peaks  on  the  main  crest  of  the  Sierras,  whence  rise 
the  Tuolumne  and  Merced  Rivers;  and  to  the  westward  extends 
the  broad  San  Joaquin  Valley  and  the  Coast  Range;  the  whole 
forming  a panorama  of  remarkable  grandeur  that  fully  compen- 
sates for  the  short  climb  from  the  main  road. 

From  the  Pilot  Peak  Pass  the  road  is  built  on  the  backbone 
of  the  ridge,  affording  outlooks  on  either  side,  until  we  enter  the 


290 


IJV  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


dark,  tree-formed  shadows  of  Hazel  Green,  where,  owing  to  its 
grassy  meadows,  magnificent  timber,  and  convenience  of  location, 
Mr.  James  Halstead  has  established  a way-side  inn. 

The  forests  of  the  Sierra  have  their  finest  development  in 
an  elevation  ranging  from  three  thousand  to  seven  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea , and  for  three  miles  east  and  west  of  Hazel  Green, 
some  of  the  noblest  specimens  of  yellow  or  pitch  pines,  Finns 
ponder osa;  sugar  pine,  Finns  Lccmbertiana ; red  cedar,  Liboced- 
rns  decnrrens;  and  Douglas  spruce,  Abies  Douglasii , are  found. 
Sugar  Pine  Pass,  two  miles  southeasterly  of  Hazel  Green,  is  six 
thousand  eight  hundred  feet  in  altitude,  and  is  the  highest  point 
on  the  Coulterville  and  Yo  Semite  road.  Gently  descending  for 
about  three-quarters  of  a mile  beyond  this  we  find  ourselves  in 

THE  MERCED  GROVE  OF  BIG  TREES. 

This  grove,  five  thousand  four  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  is 
worthy  of  special  mention,  as  containing  some  of  the  best  pre- 
served of  any  of  the  big  tree  species.  It  is  directly  on  the  line  of 
the  road,  the  survey  having  been  made  with  special  reference  to 
these  attractive  studies  for  the  Yo  Semite  tourist.  It  contains 
over  fifty  Sequoias , the  half  of  which  number  measure  from  forty  - 
five  to  ninety  feet  in  circumference.  The  largest  are  remarkably 
well  preserved  and  beautifully  symmetrical,  only  two  or  three  in 
the  whole  grove  having  been  injured  by  fire.  From 

BUENA.  VISTA  GAP, 

Four  miles  easterly  of  the  Merced  Grove,  at  an  altitude  of  five 
thousand  one  hundred  feet,  the  first  glimpse  of  the  Yo  Semite 
Valley  is  obtained  on  this  road.  El  Capitan,  Three  Graces,  The 
Sentinel,  and  Sentinel  Dome,  with  Glacier  Point,  loom  grandly 
up  in  the  distance ; and,  going  down  the  eastern  side  of  the  ridge, 
others  of  the  great  Yo  Semite  cliffs  and  domes  unveil  their  awful 
majesty,  the  Half  Dome  being  the  most  prominent.  Jogging 
along  we  soon  come  to 

THE  BIG  MEADOWS. 

As  the  name  implies,  these  are  extensive  grassy  flats,  that 


(See  pages  441-2.) 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


291 


afford  excellent  pasturage  for  stock,  and  where  much  of  the  grain- 
hay  used  in  Yo  Semite  is  produced.  How  pleasantly  does  the 
writer  recall  the  kindly  treatment  he  has  received  here  from  its 
proprietors,  Messrs.  Meason  and  Myers,  when  out  upon  some  of  his 
rambles,  and  found  this  a cordial  hospice  and  place  of  refuge. 
This  is  four  thousand  three  hundred  and  twenty  feet  above  the 
sea,  and  only  eleven  miles  from  the  hotels  at  Yo  Semite.  Thought 
and  feeling  become  enlisted  as  we  draw  near  the  glorious  realiza- 
tion of  our  day-dreams,  the  present  end  of  our  wonderful  pilgrim- 
age; and  this  measurably  prepares  us  for  the  impressive  view 
before  us  when  we  reach  the  edge  of  the  cliff,  and  obtain  our  first 
look  down  into  the  marvelous  depths  of  the  Merced  Canon,  and 
of  the  river,  after  making  its  hurrying  exit  from  the  valley. 

DESCENT  TO  THE  MEECED  CANON. 

This  is  made  by  a safe  and  excellent  road,  portions  of  the 
way  having  been  blasted  from  the  solid  granite  walls  of  the  canon. 
The  passage  of  “ Devil’s  Gulch,”  and  other  points  of  the  bluff  tell 
how  formidable  were  the  obstructions  to  be  overcome  when  build- 
ing this  road.  There  is  a cranny  little  spot  at  the  foot  of  the  hill, 
known  as  “ The  Blacksmith’s  Shop,”  which  consists  of  an  irregu- 
lar chamber  formed  entirely  of  hugh  bowlders  that  have  toppled 
off  and  down  from  the  surrounding  cliffs,  in  the  “ long,  long  ago.” 
Here  the  forge  and  anvil  rung  out  their  merry  peals,  while  picks 
and  drills  and  crow-bars  needed  on  the  road,  were  being  sharpened. 
No  matter  how  high  the  thermometer  stood  upon  the  outside,  this 
shady,  rock-formed  retreat,  fanned  by  the  rippling  frolics  of  the 
leaping  water  of  the  river,  was  always  refreshingly  cool.  A slight 
delay  for  inspecting  this  nature-built  blacksmith’s  shop  will  be 
both  gratifying  and  compensating.  Once  down  on  the  river  we 
begin  to  realize  the  height  and  massiveness  of  the  bluffs  that  stand, 
frowningly,  on  either  side  of  us ; and  while  we  are  thinking  about 
it,  almost  before  we  realize  our  nearness  to  it,  we  pass  a leaping 
rivulet,  and  are  then  at  the  Cascade  Falls;  but  as  this  forms  one 
of  the  many  delightful  excursions  of  the  Valley,  further  description 
of  this  scene  now  will  be  unnecessary. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

THE  MARIPOSA  ROUTE  TO  YO  SEMITE. 


We  live  in  deeds,  not  years;  in  thoughts,  not  breaths; 

In  feelings,  not  in  figures  on  a dial. 

We  should  count  time  by  heart  throbs.  He  most  lives 
Who  thinks  most,  feels  the  noblest,  acts  the  best. 

— Batley’s  Festus. 

A land  of  promise  flowing  with  the  milk 
And  honey  of  delicious  memories. 

— Tennyson’s  The  Lover's  Tale. 
Tis  pleasant  through  the  loop-holes  of  retreat 
To  peep  at  such  a world. 

— Cowper’s  Task,  Bk.  IV. 


As  recorded  in  earlier  chapters,  this  was  the  first  and  original 
route  ever  traveled  to  the  Yo  Semite  Valley;  and  its  fearless  peo- 
ple the  first  to  enter  it,  in  pursuit  of  the  marauding  and  murder- 
ous Indians  in  1851;  and  afterwards  to  make  the  existence  of 
such  a marvelous  spot  known  abroad.  The  great  public,  therefore, 
throughout  the  civilized  world,  owe  an  agreeable,  enduring,  and 
never-to-be-canceled  debt  of  gratitude  to  the  people  of  Mari- 
posa, for  the  glorious  heritage  they  were  thus  instrumental  in 
conferring  upon  them.  Unlike  any  other  ordinary  indebtedness, 
however,  its  remembrance  will  impart  none  but  pleasurable 
emotions.  In  winding  our  way  among  its  rich  and  beautiful  hills, 
then,  the  memory  of  the  early  struggles  of  its  people  with  the  foe, 
and  the  boon  of  the  remarkable  discovery  which  followed,  will 
bespeak  for  our  journey  over  this  historic  ground  far  more  than 
mere  ordinary  interest. 

The  accompanying  table  of  distances  and  altitudes,  with  the 
map  of  routes,  will  indicate  that  the  place  of  departure  for  Yo 
Semite  on  the  Mariposa  Route,  is,  like  one  via  Coulterville,  from 

Merced,  on  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad. 

(292) 


THE  MARIPOSA  ROUTE, 

From  San  Francisco , via  Lathrop , Merced , Mariposa , Mariposa  Big 

Tree  Station 

( Wawona ),  and  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Groves , to  Yo  Semite  Valley . 

Stations  marked  (a)  are  stopping  places  at  night  for  stage  passengers;  those  marked  (b)  are 

hotels,  or  where  meals  can  be  had;  those  marked  (c)  are  where  hay  and  grain 

are  obtainable; 

those  marked  (d)  are  stage  stations. 

Distances  in  Miles. 

td 

> 

►d  £■ 

0 ^ 

0 

d 

wS 

0)  rr 

STATIONS. 

5-  2 

in 

p 

0 

P c 

' ST-" 

; 0 

c n 

^ 5’ 

I <T> 

. O 

p 

3# 

a 

! a* 
. 

; a> 

0. 

0 

0 

3- 

• 0 

• a 

By  Railway. 

152.03 

From  San  Francisco  to — 

Lathrop,  junction  of  the  Southern  Pacific  with  the  Central  Pa- 

cific Railroad  (be) 

94-03 

94-03 

58.00 

28 

Merced,  on  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  (abed) 

58.00 

152-03 

171 

By  Carriage  Road. 

From  Merced  to  — 

y O'  yO 

Half-way  House,  watering  station  (be) 

6-35 

6-35 

87.60 

215 

Forks  of  Road  to  Snelling’s 

0.87 

7.22 

86.73 

225 

Lava  Bed  Station  (c  d) 

7.26 

14.48 

79-47 

446 

Griffith’s  Ranch 

3 63 

18. n 

75-84 

473 

Hornitos(£  c ) . . 

4-35 

22.46 

7I,49 

847 

Forks  of  Road  to  Indian  Gulch 

1.52 

23.98 

69.97 

898 

Smith’s  Ranch 

2.44 

26.42 

67-53 

1,047 

Corbett’s  Ranch c)  

1. 91 

28.83 

65.62 

1.075 

Toll  House 

1. 81 

30.14 

63.81 

1.598 

Toll  House 

2.83 

32-97 

60.98 

1,780 

Princeton  (be)  

2.65 

35-62 

58.33 

2,104 

Lewis’  Ranch( be)  

3-54 

39.16 

54-79 

2,112 

Mariposa  (a  b c d) 

1.70 

40. 86 

53-09 

i,932 

Mormon  Bar  (be)  

1.89 

42-75 

57.20 

1,630 

Sebastopol  Flat  (b  e) 

2.76 

45  5i 

48.44 

2,210 

Thompson’s  Ranch  (be) 

3-5i 

49.02 

44-93 

2,114 

Turner’s,  formerly  De  Long’s(<5  c) 

3-93 

52  95 

41.00 

2,741 

Cold  Spring  (bed) 

436 

57  31 

36.64 

3,  i26 

Summit  of  Chowchilla  Mountain  

5-24 

62.55 

3I-4° 

5,605 

Wawona*  (abed) 

4-50 

67.05 

26.90 

3.923 

Eleven  Mile  Station  (b  c d) 

10.76 

77.81 

16. 14 

5,567 

El  Capitan  (lower  iron)  Bridge,  Yo  Semite  Valley 

12.51 

90.32 

3-63 

3,926 

Leidig’s  Hotel,  Yo  Semite  Valley  (a  b c d)  

2.  c;6 

92. 88 

1 .07 

Cook’s  Hotel,  Yo  Semite  Valley  (a  b c d 1 

jv 

93.18 

0.77 

Barnard’s  Hotel,  Yo  Semite  Valley  (abed) 

0.77 

93-95 

3,934 

4:From  Wawona  (Clark’s)  to  and  through  the  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Groves,  and  back  to  Bij 
Tree  Station,  17  miles. 

RECAPITULATION. 


By  railway...  152.03  miles. 

By  carriage  road 93.95  “ 

Big  Tree  Groves  and  back  to  station 17.00  “ 


262.98  miles. 


Total  distance 


294  IN  TIIE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 

As  on  other  routes,  our 
course  for  the  first  few 
miles  after  leaving  the 
railroad  is  among  fertile 
farms  and  bounteous 
crops;  then  over  gently 
undulating  and  treeless 
gravelly  hills ; then  across 
or  around  oak  knolls,  in- 
termixed with  flower- 
ing shrubs  and  flowers: 
among  which  is  the 
charming  Mariposa,  or 
“Butterfly  Tulip,”  Cal- 
ochortus  venustus  (Mari- 
posa being  Spanish  for 

INDIAN  WOMAN  PANNING  OUT  GOLD.  butterfly).  FrOlll  the 

great  abundance  of  this  beautiful  lily, 
the  county,  with  its  county  town,  received 
its  musical  name  “ Mariposa.” 

Once  among  the  more  abruptly  formed 
uplands  of  the  county,  evidences  of  gold 
mining  are  on  every  hand ; and  the  irre- 
pressible prospector  for  gold  is  met  hunt- 
ing for  hidden  treasures.  The  world  owes 
much  to  the  undiscouraged  energy  of  this 
class  of  men ; as,  but  for  their  labors,  much 
of  the  wealth  of  the  world  would  have 
been  undiscovered.  Good  luck  then  to 
the  prospector ; as  blessings  from  the  gold 
he  may  discover  will,  let  us  hope,  bring 
prosperity  and  happiness  to  himself  and 
family,  and  be  more  or  less  shared  in  by 
all. 

As  much  of  the  way,  on  any  route  we 


TIIE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


295 


may  elect  to  take  for  Yo  Semite,  passes  directly  through  some 
portions  of  the  mining  region,  where  the  principal  occupation  of 
its  people  consists  in  extracting  the  precious  metal ; and  inasmuch 
as  the  stranger,  who  has  perhaps  never  looked  upon  gold-mining 
scenes,  feels  a thrill  of  fascination  in  the  thought  of  seeing  people 
“ digging  out  gold”  from  the  earth,  it  creates  the  temptation  to 
give  a brief  outline  of  the  method  by  which  this  is  accomplished. 
And  by  way  of  commencement  let  me  explain  that  there  are  two 
distinctly  different  sets  of  conditions,  or  of  circumstances,  under 
which  gold  is  found,  and  which  necessarily  require  two  different 
systems  of  treatment;  one  being  in  surface  soils  or  gravels,  and 
the  other  in  a ledge  or  vein  formation;  the  former  is  called 
“ Placer  Mining,”  and  the  latter  “Quartz  Mining.” 

After  the  discovery  of  gold  upon  a bar  of  the  American 
River,  Coloma,  California,  January  19,  1848,  and  for  several 
years  thereafter,  it  was  supposed  that  the  precious  metal  was  only 
to  be  found  in  rivers,  canons,  gulches,  and  ravines;  then,  experi- 
ence revealed  the  fact  that  gold  was  also  to  be  found  in  flats,  and 
gravelly  hills,  away  from  existing  water-courses ; then,  advancing 
knowledge  presented  scientific  certainty  that  even  the  gold  found 
everywhere  in  placer  diggings,  had  come,  mainly,  from  quartz 
veins,  or  ledges — quartz  being  the  principal  matrix  for  its  produc- 
tion. Let  us,  therefore,  follow  the  earliest  and  most  primitive 
methods,  and  see  how  gold  was  then  taken  out  of  surface  mines. 

PANNING  OUT  GOLD. 

The  prospector  having  arrived  at  a spot  that  looked  inviting, 
at  once  cleared  away  the  rocks  and  rubbish  that  might  cover  up 
the  “pay  dirt;”  then  he  would  fill  his  pan,  and  carry  it  to  the 
nearest  pool  or  stream  of  water,  set  it  down  into  it,  and,  when 
immersed  beneath  the  surface,  would  commence  an  oscillatory  and 
slightly  tipping  and  rotary  motion  forward,  by  which  the  finer 
particles  of  soil  were  induced  to  float  away,  and  the  pieces  of  rock 
or  pebbles  near  the  top  to  become  washed;  these  were  picked  out 
and  thrown  away ; this  process  was  repeated  until  there  was  notlu 


296 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


ing  left  in  the  pan  but  the  gold,  and  which,  being  the  heaviest  of 
all,  would  keep  settling  down  into  the  lowest  inside  edge,  and 
was  thence  taken  out. 

By  this  process  thirty-five  to  fifty  pans  of  pay  dirt  were 
washed  out  per  day,  sometimes  more;  the  remuneration  being  in 
proportion  to  the  richness  of  the  material  washed — sometimes 
“only  the  color  ” would  be  obtained,  and  at  others,  vary  from  a 
few  cents  to  many  dollars.  The  writer  once  found  $137.50  in  a 
single  pan  of  dirt.  This  method  of  digging  gold  was  the  earliest 

and  most  primitive;  the 
batea,  or  broad,  wooden 
bowl  of  the  Mexican,  ex- 
cepted. 

“Panning  out”  gold  was 
soon  discovered  to  be  alto- 
gether too  slow  a process  to 

THE  BATEA,  OR  MEXICAN  BOWL.  0 . 1 

the  impetuous  American, 
and  was,  accordingly,  superseded  by  the  “Cradle.” 

THE  CRADLE  AND  MANNER  OF  USING  IT. 


This,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  illustration  (for  it  is  still  in  use  among 


CHINAMEN  WASHING  OCT  GOLD  WITH  A CRADLE. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


297 


the  Chinese),  was  a wonderful  improvement  upon  panning;  as 
two  men,  one  to  procure  and  carry  the  pay  dirt,  and  the  other  to 
wash  it,  could  readily  average  a hundred  bucketfuls  per  day  each. 

The  plan  of  using  the  cradle  will  be  very  clear ; as  the  pay 
dirt,  whether  of  soil  or  gravel,  was  emptied  into  the  “ hopper  ” at 
the  top  of  the  machine,  the  bottom  of  which  was  perforated  with 
holes  half  an  inch  in  diameter ; and  while  water  was  being  poured 
in  upon  the  dirt  with  one  hand  the  cradle  was  rocked  with  the 
other.  This  complex  movement  was  about  as  difficult  of  attain- 
ment to  the  novice,  as  that  of  the  school-boy’s  attempt  to  rub 
his  nose  with  one  hand  while  patting  his  chest  with  the  other. 
By  this  process,  however,  all  the  gold  would  pass  through  the  bot- 
tom of  the  hopper,  to  be  caught  upon  an  apron  immediately  be- 
neath it,  and  there  saved ; or,  escaping  the  apron,  would  lodge  in 
one  or  other  of  the  divisions  across  the  bottom.  Any  pieces  of 
gold  too  large  to  pass  through  the  hopper  (and  there  have  been 
many  of  these)  were  joyfully  picked  out,  exulted  over,  and  then 
dropped  into  the  “ lucky  buckskin  purse  ” and  there  taken  care  of. 

Great  as  was  the  advance  made  from  the  pan  to  the  cradle, 
that  in  turn  had  to  give  way  to  the  “ Long  Tom,”  by  which  thou- 
sands of  bucketfuls  (the  only  method  of  counting  or  of  estimat- 
ing quantities  in  those  days)  would  be  washed  in  a single  day. 
But  this  again  had  to  fall  into  desuetude,  and  be  superseded  by 

SLUICE  MINING,  AND  GROUND  SLUICING. 

The  accompanying  illustration  will  give  a general  outline  of 
this  method,  almost  at  a glance.  Long  troughs,  called  “ sluices,” 
about  twelve  feet  in  length,  are  made  to  fit  into  each  other  at  the 
end;  the  number  used  depending  upon  the  clayey  toughness  of 
the  dirt  to  be  washed,  or  the  fineness  of  the  gold  to  be  saved ; and 
varying  from  half  a dozen  to  over  one  hundred  lengths.  Across 
the  bottom  of  these  sluice-boxes  bars  are  placed,  partly  to  inter- 
cept the  too  rapid  passage  of  the  material  shoveled  into  them,  but, 
principally,  to  form  a riffle  and  an  eddy,  wherein  to  provide  a 
place  of  settlement  for  the  gold  being  washed  out.  These  troughs 


298 


IN  T1IE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


SLUICE  MINING. 

are  set  at  a sufficient  slant  to 
insure  the  rapid  passage  of 
water  down  them;  the  aurif- 
erous soil,  or  gravel,  is  then 
shoveled  in ; when  all  the  finer 
material,  including  the  pre- 
cious metal,  passes  down  the 
sluice,  the  gold  settles  into  the 
riffles ; or,  falling  to  the  bottom, 
is  there  saved ; while  the  soil  is 
carried  off  by  the  water.  There  is  always  one  man  needed  to 
“ tend  sluice,”  whose  duties  consist  in  throwing  out  the  largest 
of  the  rocks,  and  in  having  a general  supervision  of  its  working , 
to  prevent  mishaps. 

“ Ground  Sluicing  ” consists  of  turning  a stream  of  water 
into  a mining  claim,  by  which  all  the  light  and  worthless  mateiial, 
assisted  by  miner’s  picks,  is  made  to  float  away ; when  the  gold 
settles  down  among  the  rocks  or  gravel;  and  with  the  better 


GROUND  SLUICING. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLE T 


299 


quality  of  earth  remaining,  is  there  saved,  and  afterwards  shoveled 
into  the  sluice  for  gathering  in  and  cleaning  up. 

GRAVEL,  OR  HILL  MINING. 

This  is  generally  carried  on  by  what  is  known  as  the  ‘ ‘ Hy- 
draulic Method.”  For  the  better  apprehending  of  this,  perhaps  it 
will  be  desirable  to  explain  that  in  nearly  all  the  mining  districts 
there  are  immense  deposits  of  water-washed  gravel,  forming  whole 
ridges  and  hills  many  hundreds  of  feet  high.  These  have  been 
placed  there  by  agencies  not  existing  in  the  present  day ; but  how 
they  came,  or  when,  is  left  entirely  to  the  geologist  or  mining 
expert.  I do  not  know  this,  nor  do  I know  any  one  that  does. 


WATER  FLUME  ACROSS  A HOLLOW  BETWEEN  RIDGES. 

That  they  are  there,  and  that  they  contain  auriferous  gravel 
in  untold  abundance,  is  beyond  any  doubt;  and  it  is  with  these, 
and  the  methods  of  extracting  the  precious  metal  therefrom,  that 
20 


300 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


we  now  have  to  do.  Additional  interest  may  accrue  from  the 
fact  that,  owing  to  the  wonderful  efficiency  of  hydraulic  mining, 
and  the  accredited  filling  up  of  navigable  streams  from  the 
“ slickens  ” or  gravel  floated  therefrom,  their  working  has  been 
legally  estopped  by  the  courts. 

Water,  being  the  great  working  force  in  all  placer  mines, 
was  especially  needed  to  tear  down  these  mountains  of  gravel, 
and  wash  out  the  gold ; consequently,  all  sorts  of  canals,  flumes, 
and  ditches  were  constructed,  for  conveying  that  invaluable  ele- 
ment from  living  streams  to  the  mining  districts,  at  an  enormous 
expense.  Once  upon  the  ridge  it  was  distributed  from  the  main 
canal  by  hose,  or  in  smaller  ditches,  to  the  different  mines,  where 
it  was  run  into  a sheet-iron  pipe,  largest  at  the  upper  end,  and 
there  confined;  so  that  the  entire  weight  of  the  inclosed  water, 
frequently  having  hundreds  of  feet  of  vertical  pressure,  escaping 
through  a nozzle  at  the  lower  end,  like  a fireman’s  pipe,  tore  down 
the  gravel  with  tremendous  force,  and  caused  immense  masses, 
frequently  many  scores  of  tons  in  weight,  to  “ cave  down,”  and 
not  only  break  themselves  to  pieces  by  the  fall,  but  frequently  to 
bury  the  too  venturesome  miner  underneath  them.  Sometimes 
tunnels  are  driven  far  into  these  gravelly  deposits,  and  hundreds, 
of  kegs  of  blasting  powder  are  simultaneously  exploded,  to  shake 
the  banks  into  pieces,  so  that  the  gravel  may  be  more  effectually 
washed  by  the  water.  Frequently  over  a thousand  miner’s  inches 
of  this  element  are  brought  to  play,  steadily,  upon  these  “ Hydrau- 
lic Mines.”  After  several  weeks  have  been  consumed  at  this,  a 
“ clean  up  ” is  made,  the  results  “bagged,”  and  sent  by  express 
to  the  San  Francisco  Mint.  It  can  readily  be  seen  what  vast 
quantities  of  this  material  would  be  annually  run  into  the  beds 
of  tributary  streams,  the  tendency  of  which  would  be  to  choke 
them  up,  and  force  an  overflowing  flood  both  of  water  and  sedi- 
ment upon  the  low  adjacent  lands. 

QUARTZ  MINING. 

This  consists  in  extracting  the  precious  metal  from  quartz, 
which  is  the  principal  matrix  for  gold  (although  not  the  only  one), 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


301 


the  ledges  or  veins  of  which  sometimes  extend  several  thousand 
feet  down  into  the  earth.  Indeed  it  is  more  than  probable  that 
from  this  source  nearly  all  the  gold  found  in  placer  mining  has 
originally  come ; as  the  action  of  air,  water,  sunshine,  frost,  and  other 
elements  have  disintegrated  the  matrix  containing  the  gold,  and 
set  the  precious  metal  free.  Heavy  rains  and  great  floods  have 
washed  the  lighter  silica  into  the  water-courses,  and  thence  to  the 
valleys,  thus  forming  the  soil  and  gravel  that  has  buried  up  the 
gold ; and  it  was  here  that  the  early  gold  miner  found  his  reward- 
ing treasures. 

Quartz  ledges,  or  veins,  are  readily  discoverable  by  their 
white  crests  or  belts  cropping  above  or  mapping  the  hills ; it  must 
not,  however,  be  supposed  that  each  and  every  one  of  these  pos- 
sesses an  inexhaustible  mine  of  untold  wealth;  far  from  it.  Like 
true  worth  in  humanity,  it  is  not  self-assertive  prominence  that  is 
the  unerring  augury  of  excellence,  as  the  boldest  fronted  are 
proverbially  of  the  least  intrinsic  value.  The  richest  of  gold-pro- 
ducing veins  are  those  which  are  generally  without  distinguishing 
features  outwardly,  and  are  composed  of  what  miners  call  “ rot- 
ten quartz.”  From  this  material  (but  not  from  this  only  by  any 
means)  much  of  the  wealth  in  and  from  California,  and  elsewhere, 
has  been  and  is  being  produced. 

When  gold  is  found  in  bits  of  quartz  lying  on  the  surface 


pression  that  quartz  ledges  grow  richer  in  proportion  to  the  depth 
attained,  commences 


miner's  pan  and  horn  spoon. 


(and  by  these  nearly  all  the 
richest  veins  have  been  dis- 
covered), they  are  ground 
fine  in  a mortar,  and  washed 
in  a horn  spoon,  or  miner’s 
pan;  and  when  the  “ pros- 
pect” is  deemed  encourag- 
ing, its  fortunate  discoverer, 
under  the  uniformly  (though 
not  invariably)  correct  im- 


302 


IN  TIIE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 

SINKING  A SHAFT. 

To  “ sink  a shaft  ” (this  being*  a perpendicular  opening  in 
the  earth,  usually  from  four  to  six  feet  in  width)  the  same  ap- 
pliances are  used  as  in  sinking  a well,  which  it  very  much  resem- 


MINERS  SINKING-  A SHAFT. 

bles.  As  quartz  ledges  are  seldom  vertical,  instead  of  the  so-called 
shaft,  an  opening  is  frequently  made  on  the  top,  and  the  work  con- 
tinued directly  upon  it,  as  here  illustrated.  Of  course  all  these 
were  the  earlier  and  more  primitive  plans  for  obtaining  gold  from 
the  matrix,  whether  it  be  quartz,  talcose  or  schist  slate,  greenstone, 
soapstone,  or  any  other  gangue;  and  only  prepared  the  way  for 
the  vast  enterprises  which  subsequently  followed,  whose  results 
were  known  only  by  the  millions  of  dollars  extracted  annually 
from  a single  mine. 

The  principle  of  separating  the  precious  metals  from  the 
matrix  in  which  they  are  found,  is,  substantially,  the  same  in  all 
cases ; their  treatment  only  differing  according  to  the  presence  and 
extent  of  the  baser  metals;  and  it  is  simply  this:  The  matrix? 
whether  it  be  quartz  or  any  other,  is  reduced  to  as  fine  a powder 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


303 


as  possible  by  pulver- 
ization, when  the  gold 
naturally  falls  out ; 
this  being  also  fine, 
might  be  carried  off 
by  the  water  used  in 
a wet  battery,  to  as- 
sist its  manipulation 
there;  but,  to  prevent 
it,  as  quicksilver  and 
gold  (and  other  metals 
also)  have  a remark- 
able affinity  for  each 
other,  the  former  met- 
al is  placed  within  the 
battery,  on  copper 
plates  below  it,  and 
on  other  places  where 
connection  with  the 
two  affinities  can  be 
assured,  and  the  gold 
retained.  The  quick- 
silver is  then  separated  from  the  gold  by  forcibly  squeezing  it 
through  buckskin,  where  the  gold  is  retained.  This  is  now  called 
“ amalgam,”  from  which  any  quicksilver  still  remaining  is  sepa- 
rated by  retortion,  before  the  gold  is  melted  into  bars.  The  ex- 
planatory digression,  here  presented,  is  intended  to  assist  the 
stranger  in  traveling,  understanding^,  through  the  gold  mining 
districts;  and,  it  is  hoped,  give  additional  interest  to  the  sights  to 
be  witnessed  while  passing  over  it. 

Hornitos  (Spanish  for  little  oven),  is  the  first  mining  town 
entered  in  Mariposa  County ; which,  being  originally  settled  by 
Mexicans,  and  still  having  numerous  representatives  of  that  na- 
tionality, has  more  the  appearance  of  a Spanish  than  an  Ameri- 
can town.  Its  quartz  ledges,  however,  are  now  attracting  other 


FOLLOWING  DOWN  THE  LEDGE, 


304 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


classes  of  residents  thither,  who  are  gradually  changing  its  char- 
acteristics. Whatever  changes  may  come  to  its  people  there 
will  never  be  any  serious  questioning  as  to  the  appositeness  of  it  & 
name — unless  it  could  be  made  to  express  something  a little  hot- 
ter ! This  place  is  only  about  eight  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above 
sea  level. 

A few  miles  easterly  of  Hornitos  we  enter  upon  the  once 
famous  “Fremont’s  Mariposa  Grant;”  and,  as  one  passes  through 
the  various  settlements  that  have  been  made  upon  it,  how  memory 
reverts  to  the  busy  hum  of  mining  and  of  mining  life  that  once 
pulsated  through  the  great  arteries  of  this  mineral  aorta,  giving 
to  it  a strength  of  purpose  that  brought  a prosperity  which  became 
proverbial.  It  has  long  been  a subject  of  legitimate  discussion, 
however,  whether  or  not  the  best  interests  of  this  entire  region 
would  or  would  not  have  been  best  subserved,  had  the  Fremont 
grant  never  been  floated  upon  this  mining  district;  notwithstand- 
ing the  large  sums  of  money  that  have  been  expended  here  at  dif- 
ferent times,  by  the  various  companies  that  have  represented  that 
ownership  (for  it  has  always  been  in  some  kind  of  financial  or 
managerial  trouble).  From  the  Benton  Mills  on  the  Merced  to 
Mormon  Bar  on  Mariposa  Creek,  such  towns  as  Bear  Valley,  Agua 
F ria,  Princeton,  and  Mariposa,  prove  that  the  elements  of  success 
have  been,  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  are  still  here,  and  only 
await  favorable  development  to  bring  back  the  halcyon  days  of 
yore,  although  much  of  the  cream  has  been  taken  from  the  placer 
mines. 

As  we  ride  along  we  can  see  that  every  gulch,  ravine,  or  flat 
upon  the  way,  bears  the  unmistakable  scars  of  an  active  mining 
life,  and  gives  unmistakable  evidence  that  a miner’s  labors,  if  they 
bring  prosperity  to  himself  and  family,  and  make  acceptable  ad- 
dition to  the  country’s  wealth,  invariably  bring  desolation  to  the 
landscape;  yet,  even  this,  is  relieved  by  cultivated  gardens, 
orchards  and  vineyards,  near  and  among  the  settlements;  while 
Mount  Bullion,  “the  backbone  of  the  county,”  and  its  timbered 
spurs,  attract  attention  by  their  scenic  boldness.  F rom  the  north- 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


305 


ern  crest  of  this  ridge  some  of  the  vertical  cliffs  of  the  Yo  Semite 
are  distinctly  visible,  although  some  forty  miles  distant. 

But  here  we  are  in  the  county  town  of  Mariposa ; its  court 
house,  hotels,  stores,  livery  stables,  printing  offices,  schools,  churches 
and  numerous  shops,  tell  at  once  that  it  is  still  the  active  center 
of  business  for  the  main  portions  of  the  county.  And  although 
its  people  have  had  to  contend  with  marauding  Indians,  submit 
to  the  desolating  losses  of  fire  at  sundry  times,  and  bear  their 
share  of  the  customary  ups  and  downs  of  life,  they  never  seem  to 
have  been  discouraged.  That  the  reward  may  come  in  the  in- 
crease of  business  a thousand-fold  is  the  writer’s  heartiest  and 
most  devout  wish.  After  saying  a pleasant  good-bye  (and  I never 
knew  any  other),  as  soon  as  we  reach  the  lower  end  of  town  we 
pass  a quartz  mill  of  some  forty  stamps,  now  unused;  and  at  the 
outskirts  of  the  town,  we  can  see  covies  of  quail  running  hither 
and  thither  in  every  direction. 

the  California  quail  ( Perdix  Ccdij brnica ). 

This  beautiful  bird  abounds  throughout  California;  if  we 
except  districts  destitute  of  shrubbery,  and  the  higher  mountain 
region.  It  is  a little  larger  than  the  quail  of  the  Northern  and 
Western  States,  but  as  a tid-bit  for  the  epicure  is  not  fully  its 
equal;  its  habits  making  the  flesh  harder  and  tougher.  From 
their  great  plentifulness,  in  many  sections,  there  is  no  difficulty 
in  procuring  them  in  large  numbers  for  market.  They  can  be 
partially  tamed,  when  kept  in  capacious  cages,  or  in  inclosures 
where  they  can  get  to  the  ground;  they  will  then  lay  their  eggs, 
and  rear  their  young,  like  the  common  fowl.  Their  fecundity  is 
remarkable;  a single  female,  domesticated  by  a friend  of  mine,  in 
a single  summer,  laid  the  astonishing  number  of  seventy-nine  eggs. 
She  was,  moreover,  very  tame,  and  would  eat  from  the  hand  of  her 
mistress,  although  invariably  shy  to  strangers.  Sometimes  the 
male  bird  was  very  pugnacious  for  several  days  together,  when 
her  ladyship  had  to  take  refuge  in  a corner,  or  seek  the  protection 
of  a tea-saucer,  from  which  they  were  daily  fed. 

The  valley  quail  must  not  be  confounded  with  that  of  the 


306 


1JV  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


PAIR  OF  CALIFORNIA  VALLEY  QUAIL. 

mountain,  or  with  the  large  mountain  quail,  as  there  are  three 
species,  the  former  being  the  smallest,  and  the  latter  the  largest  of 
the  three,  and  very  rare.  The  former,  moreover,  carries  his  tremu- 
lous top-knot,  which  generally  consists  of  six  feathers,  though  ap- 
pearing as  one,  forward ; while  those  of  both  the  other  two  trend 
backward ; and  it  is  not  a little  singular  that  while  California  quail 
carry  their  top-knots  as  indicated,  that  of  the  Mexican  quail 
spreads  out  like  a fan  on  the  center  of  the  head.  In  autumn  they 
become  gregarious,  as  numerous  distinct  flocks  or  families  unite; 
the  aggregate  of  which  sometimes  amounts  to  over  one  hundred; 
but,  even  then,  as  in  spring,  they  always  go  in  pairs. 

Our  road  now  runs  down  Mariposa  Creek,  past  quartz  ledges, 
and  placer  mines,  to  Mormon  Bar;  where  it  commences  to  ascend 
the  hills  at  an  easy  grade,  for  several  miles,  among  buckeye  bushes, 
HZsculus  Calif ornica;  grease  wood,  Ceanothas  cuneatus  ; leather- 


Photo-typo  by  Britton  & Rz 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


307 


wood,  Fremontia  Calif ornica;  and  white  post  oaks,  Quercus 
Douglasii. 

Just  about  dark  one  evening  as  three  of  us  were  jogging  along 
this  road  (we  had  a camping  outfit  with  us),  and  anxious  to  ob- 
tain necessary  feed  for  our  animals  for  the  night,  we  stopped  at 
the  gate  of  a wayside  house,  at  which  stood  a boy  who  had  evi- 
dently, on  that  very  day, 
been  invested  in  a new 
suit  of  clothes,  and  felt 
the  dignity  of  such  a 
rare  event  correspond- 
ingly. One  of  our  party, 
in  the  most  conciliatory 
of  tones,  inquired  of  this 
scion  of  the  household, 
Has  your  father  any 
barley  or  oats  he  can  sell 
us?”  “ Don’t  know.” 
"Is  he  anywhere  about 
that  we  could  ask  him?  ” 
“ Don’t  know.”  “Is 
there  any  one  in  the 
house  — your  father  or 
mother,  or  sister,  or 
brother — that  we  could 

THE  BOY  THAT  ‘‘ DIDN’T  KNOW  NUFFINK.”  , , , 

ask?  “ I don  t know 


— I don’t  know  nuffink.”  Being  such  a remarkable  boy  we  took 
his  portrait,  and  herewith  present  it,  for  his  own  recognition  and 
future  study ! 

When  riding  upon  nearly  every  highway  in  California,  there 
can  be  seen  a brilliant-coated  woodpecker,  flitting  hither  and 
thither ; the  red,  white,  and  black  of  his  plume  glinting  brightly 
in  the  sunshine.  It  is  the  red-headed  woodpecker  (Melanerpes 
formicivorus).  The  Spanish  people  here  call  it  El  Carpintero, 
or  Carpenter  Woodpecker,  from  his  singular  habit  of  boring  into 


308 


JJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS, 


the  red -headed  woodpecker  ( Melanerpes  formicivorus. ) 


the  bark  and  dead  wood  of  trees  for  the  purpose  of  storing  away 
acorns.  The  rapidity  with  which  his  busy  head  moves,  and  the 
rattling  scrape  of  the  sound  given  out,  tell  of  his  unmistakable 
earnestness  in  taking  care  of  the  harvest.  The  entire  trunks  of 
pine  trees,  to  the  height  of  thirty  feet,  are  sometimes  dotted  with 
the  result  of  their  labors.  And  it  is  not  a little  singular  that, 
after  the  hole  is  made  in  the  bark  or  wood,  its  exact  measure  is  so 
carefully  taken  that,  when  an  acorn  is  selected  to  insert  in  it,  a. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


309 


mistake  is  seldom  made  in  the  size,  to  insure  its  fitting  so  snugly 
that  not  even  the  pilfering  jays  can  take  it  out,  when  once 
driven  in. 

The  red-headed  woodpecker,  contrary  to  the  habits  of  birds, 
provides  for  future  emergencies;  and  from  instincts  of  its  own, 
anticipates  some  coming  want,  and  prepares  for  it  accordingly. 
It  is  an  open  question,  however,  whether  or  not  the  acorn  forms 
part  of  its  food;  or  is  only  the  treasury  of  an  insect  possessing 
essential  qualities  for  the  woodpecker’s  existence,  when  such  are 
unattainable  elsewhere;  some  contending  for  the  former,  while 
others  as  persistently  insist  upon  the  latter.  The  same  habit  is 
possessed,  though  not  to  the  same  extent,  by  the  Melanerpes 
erythocephalus,  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Our  ride  for  many  miles  now  is  among  or  over  gently  roll- 
ing gravelly  hills,  covered  with  a light  growth  of  shrubbery  and 
white  post  oaks;  where  nearly  all  the  available  flats,  or  small 
valleys  on  streams,  have  been  converted  into  grain  fields,  or  gar- 
dens and  orchards,  so  that  numerous  little  tenements  add  variety 
to  the  journey.  Farther  on,  the  stately  pines  once  tempted  the 
erection  of  saw-mills,  one  of  which,  White  & Hatch’s,  became 
famous  for  its  excellence  as  a lunch  house  for  Yo  Semite  tourists. 
These  industries  made  the  road  lively  by  the  coming  and  going 
of  teams,  either  with  supplies  up  for  mining  settlements  and 
ranches,  or  with  lumber  down  for  the  cities  and  towns. 

Finally  we  reach  Conway’s  at  Cold  Spring  (wdiere  an  excel- 
lent meal  and  good  bed  can  always  be  obtained),  and  here  com- 
mence the  ascent  of  Chow-chilla  Mountain.  In  five  and  a quarter 
miles,  from  Conway’s  to  the  summit,  we  make  a rise  of  two  thou- 
sand four  hundred  and  seventy-nine  feet.  But  the  many  beauti- 
ful live-oaks,  Quercus  chrysolepis;  black  oaks,  Q.  Kelloggii;  yel- 
low pines,  Pinus  ponderosa;  sugar  pine,  P.  Lcimbertiana;  and 
red  cedar,  Libocedrus  decurrens,  that  throw  their  welcome  shadows 
on  the  road,  or  allow  of  openings  between  them  to  afford  glimpses 
of  the  charming  scenery  beyond,  beguile  every  mile  and  moment 
of  the  way.  And  when  once  upon  the  summit  what  a tree  feast 
is  here  provided,  which  continues  all  the  way  to  Wawona. 


310 


IN'  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


Reveling  in  memories  of  such  a luxuriant  growth  one  cannot 
wonder  that  the  great  newspaper  genius,  Horace  Greeley,  should 
thus  write  about  it: — 

Here  let  me  renew  my  tribute  to  the  marvelous  bounty  and  beauty 
of  the  forests  of  this  whole  mountain  region.  The  Sierra  Nevadas  lack 
the  glorious  glaciers,  the  frequent  rains,  the  rich  verdure,  the  abundant 
cataracts  of  the  Alps;  but  they  far  surpass  them — they  surpass  any  other 
mountains  I ever  saw — in  the  wealth  and  grace  of  their  trees.  Look  down 
from  almost  any  of  their  peaks,  and  your  range  of  vision  is  filled,  bounded, 
satisfied,  by  what  might  be  termed  a tempest-tossed  sea  of  evergreens,  fill- 
ing every  upland  valley,  covering  every  liill-side,  crowning  every  peak, 
but  the  highest,  with  their  unfading  luxuriance.  That  I saw,  during  this 
day’s  travel,  many  hundreds  of  pines  eight  feet  in  diameter,  with  cedars 
at  least  six  feet,  I am  confident;  and  there  were  miles  of  such,  and  smaller 
trees  of  like  genus,  standing  as  thick  as  they  could  grow.  Steep  mount- 
ain-sides, allowing  these  giants  to  grow,  rank  above  rank,  without  obstruct- 
ing each  other’s  sunshine,  seem  peculiarly  favorable  to  the  production  of 
these  serviceable  giants.  But  the  Summit  Meadows  are  peculiar  in  their 
heavy  fringe  of  balsam  fir,  of  all  sizes,  from  those  barely  one  foot  high  to 
those  hardly  less  than  two  hundred,  their  branches  surrounding  them  in 
collars,  their  extremities  gracefully  bent  down  by  the  weight  of  winter 
snows,  making  them  here,  I am  confident,  the  most  beautiful  trees  on 
earth.  The  dry  promontories  which  separate  these  meadows  are  also 
covered  with  a species  of  spruce,  which  is  only  less  graceful  than  the 
firs  aforesaid.  I never  before  enjoyed  such  a tree-feast  as  on  this  wearing, 
difiicult  ride.* 

*Mr.  Greeley  being  in  a hurry  (this  had  become  habitual  with  him),  and 
anxious  to  see  as  much  as  possible  in  the  limited  time  he  had  allowed  himself,  rode 
from  Bear  Valley  to  Yo  Semite,  over  sixty  miles,  in  a single  day,  or  thereabouts; 
thirty-eight  of  which  were  on  the  back  of  one  of  the  hardest  trotting  mules  in 
America;  and  as  he  had  not  been  in  the  saddle  for  thirty  years,  was  somewhat 
inclined  to  portliness,  and  the  possessor  of  a cuticle  as  tender  as  that  of  a child, 
there  was  but  little  of  the  unabrased  article  left,  when  he  arrived  in  the  valley  at 
one  o’clock  the  next  morning.  His  suffering  must,  therefore,  have  been  intense; 
and,  being  utterly  helpless,  he  was  carefully  lifted  from  the  saddle,  his  comfort 
cared  for  as  much  as  possible  under  the  circumstances,  and,  at  his  own  request, 
put  supperless  to  bed.  Just  before  noon  of  the  day  of  his  arrival,  he  was 
assisted  from  his  couch,  and,  as  he  had  speaking  engagements  to  fulfill,  after  a 
light  breakfast,  taken  as  distinguished  guests  are  honored  with  a toast,  he  was 
again  lifted  into  the  saddle,  and  without  seeing  any  of  the  great  sights  beyond 
the  hotel,  made  a returning  ride  of  twenty-four  miles,  to  Clark’s.  He  was  seen 
by  the  writer,  in  San  Francisco,  some  three  weeks  afterwards  shuffling  along  the 
sidewalk,  slowly;  and  when  allusion  was  made  to  his  too  evident  lameness  the  re- 
sponse came:  “Oh!  Mr.  H.,  you  cannot  realize  how  much  I have  suffered  from 
that  jaunt  to  the  Yo  Semite.”  To  speak  glowingly,  therefore,  of  anything,  after 
such  an  experience,  proves  Mr.  Greeley  to  have  been  more  than  an  ordinary  man. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

THE  MILTON  AND  BIG  OAK  FLAT  ROUTE  TO  YO  SEMITE. 


Know  the  true  value  of  time;  snatch,  seize,  and  enjoy  every  moment  of  it. 
Never  put  off  till  to-morrow  what  you  can  do  to-day. 

— Earl  of  Chesterfield’s  Letters  to  his  Son. 

Wherefore  did  Nature  pour  her  bounties  forth 
With  a full  and  unwithdrawing  hand, 

Covering  the  earth  with  odors,  fruits,  and  flocks, 

But  all  to  please  and  sate  the  curious  taste? 

— Milton’s  Comus. 

Age  cannot  wither  her,  nor  custom  stale 
Her  infinite  variety. 

— Shakespear’s  Anthony  and  Cleopatra. 

A glance  at  the  outline  map  of  routes  will  show  that  our 
course  is  via  Stockton  and  Milton;  just  the  same,  so  far,  as  that 
via  the  Calaveras  Big  Tree  Groves;  but,  just  beyond  the  Reservoir 
House  and  reservoir,  our  road  trends  to  the  right,  through  Cop- 
peropolis— so  named  from  the  immense  deposits  of  copper  ore  once 
found  here,  the  extraction  of  which  employed  many  hundreds  of 
men.  Now  its  deserted  streets  and  decaying  buildings  tell  the 
sad  story  that  the  copper  mines  are  no  longer  worked ; and  suggest 
the  business  stagnation  that  ensued.  But  the  coachman’s  cheery 
“All  aboard”  will  cut  short  any  sympathetic  reveries  at  the 
change,  and  keep  us  rolling  on  among  white  post  oaks  and  bull 
pines,  until  we  reach  Byrne’s  Ferry  at  the  Stanislaus  River.  It 
is  simply  presumable  that  the  name  “ Byrne’s  Ferry”  will  ever  be 
continued,  although  a substantial  bridge  made  this  a polite  fic- 
tion of  the  past  a score  or  more  years  ago. 

Here,  however,  we  see  disconnected  parts  of  a mountain  of 
volcanic  origin,  which  to  appearance  is  “as  level  as  a table,” 

and  which  is  called  by  everybody  living  near  it,  Table  Mountain. 

(311) 


BIG  OAK  FLAT  ROUTE, 

Fro??i  San  Francisco , via  Stockton , Milton , Chinese  Camp , and  Big  Oak  Flat , to 

Yo  Semite  Valley. 

Stations  marked  (cl)  are  stopping  places  at  night  for  stage  passengers;  those  marked  (<5)  are 
hotels,  or  where  meals  can  be  had;  those  marked  (c)  are  where  hay  and  grain  are  obtainable; 
those  marked  (d)  are  stage  stations. 


I 

Distances  in  Miles. 


STATIONS. 

Between  consecutive 
points 

From  San  Francisco. . 

From  Yo  Semite  Valley 

Altitude,  in  feet,  above 
Sea  Level 

By  Railway. 

x33-°5 

From  San  Francisco  to — • 

Lathrop,  junction  of  the  Central  Pacific  with  the  Southern  Pa- 

cific  Railroad  (b) 

94-03 

94-03 

39.02 

28 

Stockton,  on  Central  Pacific  Railroad  (abed) 

9.02 

103.05 

30.00 

29 

Milton,  on  Stockton  and  Copperopolis  Railroad  (bed) 

30.00 

I33-05 

376 

By  Carriage  Road. 

91.28 

From  Milton  to  — 

Reservoir  House  (be) 

6-i3 

6.13 

85-15 

I>OI3 

Copperopolis  (bed) 

8.70 

x4-83 

76-45 

1,015 

Byrne’s  Ferry  Bridge,  Stanislaus  River 

7.00 

21.83 

69-45 

475 

Goodwin’s,  Table  Mountain  Pass  (bed).... 

3-5o 

25-33 

65-95 

1,050 

Chinese  Camp  (abed) 

3-5° 

28.83 

62.45 

^299 

Moffitt’s  Bridge ... 

4.18 

33-oi 

58.27 

602 

Keith’s  Orchard  and  Vineyard 

1.03 

34-03 

57-24 

612 

Stevens’  Bar  Ferry 

1.24 

35-28 

56.00 

614 

Culberton’s  Vineyard  ( c ) 

3-45 

38-73 

52-55 

980 

Priest’s  Hotel  (abed) 

2.21 

40.94 

50-34 

2,558 

Big  Oak  Flat  (b  c) 

1 .07 

42.01 

49.27 

2,823 

Groveland  (be) 

2 . 24 

44-25 

47-03 

2,828 

Second  Garrote 

2.15 

46.40 

44 . 88 

2,857 

Sprague’s  Ranch  (be) 

4-97 

5i-37 

39-91 

2,950 

Hamilton’s  Ranch  (bed) 

3-98 

55-35 

35-93 

2,978 

Colfax  Spring,  Elwell’s  (be) 

2-55 

57-9° 

33-38 

3,022 

South  Fork  Tuolumne,  Lower  Bridge 

o-93 

58.83 

S2  45 

2,654 

Hardin’s  Ranch  (c) 

4-39 

63.22 

28.06 

3,396 

South  Fork  Tuolumne  River,  Upper  Bridge 

i-37 

64-59 

26.69 

3,420 

Crocker’s  Ranch  (be) 

3 • 34 

67-93 

23-35 

3,97° 

Hodgdon’s  Ranch  (be) 

2 .00 

6q  . QJ 

4,506 

Toulumne  Bis- Tree  Grove 

y yo 

7 A . 97 

16 . 01 

^,7Q4 

Crane  Y\a.t(bc) 

1 .00 

/ r D J 

75-37 

I5-91 

6,054 

Tamarack  Flat 

5-07 

80.44 

10.84 

6,234 

Gentry’s  (deserted) 

2.81 

83.25 

8.03 

5,627 

Junction  of  Big  Oak  Flat  and  Coulterville  Roads 

4-37 

87.62 

3.66 

3,949 

Leirlip'’s  Hotel,  Yo  Semite  Valley  (abed.) 

2 . 

90 . 21 

I .07 

Cook’s  H otel,  Vo  Semite  Valley  (abed.)  

• Dy 
O . 70 

QO  . ^7 

0.77 

Barnard’s  Hotel,  Yo  Semite  Valley  (a  b c d) 

0.77 

y^  -J  / 

91.28 

3,934 

RECAPITULATION. 


By  railway 133.05  miles. 

By  carriage  road 91.28  “ 

224.33  miles. 


Total  distance 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


313 


TABLE  MOUNTAIN. 

It  is  a superincumbent  mass  of  volcanic  trap  that  is  supposed  to 
have  commenced  its  outpour  near  Shaw’s  Flat,  Tuolumne  County; 
and,  flowing  into  the  channel  of  an  old  river,  followed  its  sinuous 


From  Near  Byrne’s  Ferry. 

TABLE  MOUNTAIN. 


course  for  over  twenty  miles ; but  since  that  time,  the  hills  that 
once  formed  the  banks  of  the  stream  have  been  washed  and  worn 
down  many  hundreds  of  feet,  so  that  they  are  far  below  the 
surface  of  the  lava,  forming  the  top  of  Table  Mountain,  leaving 
its  bold  and  vertical  walls  towering  far  above  all.  Immense  rifts, 
shaken  in  it  at  sundry  times,  have  enabled  the  present  Stanislaus 
River  to  force  openings  through  it,  and  to  tear  away  whole  sec- 
tions ; hence  the  broken  links  in  this  chain  of  lava. 

Many  years  ago  some  very  rich  auriferous  gravel  was  found 
in  the  old  river  bed  underneath  this  singular  volcanic  deposit,  and 
tunnels  were  run  into  it  in  every  direction  for  the  purpose  of 
“ tapping  ” the  paying  strata,  (one  of  which  was  driven  nine 
hundred  feet  through  solid  rock,  and  upon  which  three  thousand 


314 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


seven  hundred  and  fifty-six  days’  labor  were  expended,  additional 
to  the  cost  of  tools,  blasting  powder,  etc.).  How  far  these  enter- 
prises became  remunerative  is  still  wrapped  in  mystery;  but  suffi- 
cient information  was  allowed  to  escape  to  induce  a numerous 
following  of  such  examples. 

After  crossing  the  Stanislaus  River  our  road  winds  gradually 
up  the  hill,  whence  fine  views  are  obtained  of  that  picturesque 
stream,  and  the  numerous  broken  walls  and  bolder  points  of 
Table  Mountain,  among  which  Goodwin’s  Vineyard  is  most 
charmingly  situated.  J ust  before  arriving  at  the  entrance  gate, 
however,  we  shall  find  the  portrait  of  a Chinaman  and  his  pack, 
upon  their  travels,  painted  upon  a sign,  containing  this  inscription 
— ME  GO  CHINESE  CAMP — 3 MILE  ONE  HALF.  Now 

goodwin’s 

Is  a beautiful  orchard  and  vineyard,  fenced  in  mainly  by  volcanic 
bombs  from  Table  Mountain,  by  which  it  is  surrounded.  Its 
well-kept  and  weed-free  grounds  bespeak  a becoming  pride  in 
their  owner ; and  the  temptingly  bright  oranges,  luscious  peaches, 
large  and  delicious  grapes,  pure  home-made  California  wine,  and 
the  refresning  shade  of  unbrageous  fig-trees,  are  suggestively  in- 
viting of  a brief  yet  delightful  visit.  From  the  ridge  beyond  this 
a large,  plain-like  country,  once  covered  with  miners,  stretches  far 
away  in  every  direction,  on  one  side  of  which  stands 

CHINESE  CAMP. 

Now  it  must  not  be  supposed  that  the  name  found  to  belong 
to  this  once  prosperous  mining  settlement  implies  that  it  is  in  the 
exclusive  possession  of  natives  of  the  Flow^ery  Kingdom.  Far 
from  it,  inasmuch  as  they  are  now  largely  in  the  minority.  It  is 
true,  however,  that  nearly  every  mining  town  in  California  has  a 
liberal  representation  of  this  class,  and  it  is  also  true  that  the 
number  found  here  in  early  days  was  far  in  excess  of  that  gener- 
ally found  elsewhere ; as  it  was  a kind  of  head-quarters,  especially 
on  Sundays,  for  all  Chinamen  living  within  a radius  of  many 
miles.  This  gave  the  town  its  name. 


Photo,  by  Geo.  fiske. 


Wall  of  Table  Mountain'. 


(See  page  313.) 


Photo-typo  by  Britton  & Rey,  S.  F. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


315 


Every  village,  town,  or  city,  in  California,  moreover,  wherein 
the  Chinese  congregate,  has  its  “ Chinese  Quarter.”  They  never 
attempt,  socially,  to  intermix;  and,  unlike  other  nationalities,  a 
Chinaman  never  drops  his  distinctive  habits,  manners,  customs, 
dress,  or  manner  of  living,  to  adopt  those  of  a people  by  whom  he 
is  surrounded.  A Chinaman,  therefore,  is  always  a Chinaman, 
no  matter  where  he  may  be.  His  contract  with  one  or  other 


A CHINESE  COUPLE. 


of  the  “ Six  Companies,”  to  which  every  Chinaman  belongs, 
always  provides  that  should  death  come  to  him  in  this  strange 
land,  his  bones  shall  be  taken  back  to  his  native  country.  In 

this  he  is  as  true  a patriot  as  any  man  on  earth.  Whatever  else 
21 


316 


IN  TEE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


he  may  believe,  or  disbelieve,  he  never  wavers  in  his  allegiance  to 
the  land  that  gave  him  national  birth.  Whatever  else,  therefore 
we  may  deny  him,  let  us  not  withhold  from  him  the  just  respect 
that  such  a noble  trait  commands. 

A CHINESE  BELIEF  WORTHY  OF  ADOPTION. 

Whatsoever  the  Chinese  may  believe  about  God,  they  hold  to 
the  idea,  whether  they  carry  it  out  in  practice  or  not,  that  the 
principal  duty  of  man  is  to  perform  kindly  services  to  each  other, 
upon  earth,  and  thus  bespeak  the  personal  good  offices  of  their 
friends,  especialW  of  their  parents,  in  the  hereafter.  A little  of 
this  kind  of  philosophy  incorporated  into  the  Christain  system. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


317 


would  not  be  (as  an  English  gentleman  once  expressed  himself) 
“ half  bad.”  Let  us  try  a few  good  heavy  doses  of  it  as  an  ex- 
periment. Their  “Feast  to  the  Dead  ” probably  originated  in  this 
idea,  as,  according  to  Mr.  Williams,  in  his  book  upon  the  Middle 
Kingdom,  they  thus  address  the  departed  at  the  grave:  “My 
trust  is  in  your  divine  spirit.  Reverently  I present  thee  five-fold 
sacrifices  of  a pig,  a fowl,  a duck,  a goose,  and  a fish;  also  an 
offering  of  five  plates  of  fruit,  with  libations  of  spirituous  liquors.” 

INDIAN  SOLUTION  OF  A DIFFICULT  PROBLEM. 

When  the  Indians  in  California  first  saw  the  Chinese,  there 
arose  a dispute  among  the  former  as  to  the  country  to  which  the 
latter  belonged,  some  contending  that  the  Chinese  were  an  inferior 
race  of  Indians  from  beyond  the  sea;  and  others,  with  equal 
pertinacity,  asseverating  that- their  eyes  and  facial  expression 
were  utterly  unlike  the  Indians;  and  that,  therefore,  there  could 
be  no  tribal  relationship  between  them.  This  question  they  all 
determined  should  be  effectually  settled,  and  at  once;  and  as  they 
were  all  agreed  upon  one  point,  viz.,  that  if  the  new-comers  were 
Indians,  they  could  all  swim ; a water  test  was  accordingly  accepted 
as  thoroughly  satisfactory  and  conclusive  to  both  parties. 

When  the  spring  snows  were  rapidly  melting,  and  the  angry 
streams  were  booming,  a tree  having  been  fallen  across  by  which 
to  form  a foot-bridge,  at  an  understood  signal  between  the  con- 
testants, they  met  a couple  of  Chinamen  upon  this  bridge ; and, 
pushing  them  into  the  angry  current,  drowned  them  both ! It 
is  stated  that  this  was  a perfectly  demonstrative  settlement  of  the 
doubtful  point  between  the  contestants,  and  decided  that  China- 
men were  not  Indians!  but  it  is  not  stated,  authoritatively,  that 
this  process  of  determination  was  equally  satisfactory  to  the 
Chinamen  ? 

Owing  to  convenience  of  location  Yo  Semite  bound  pas- 
sengers, as  well  as  many  others,  generally  tarry  for  the  night  at 
Chinese  Camp,  where  they  will  find  a brick  hotel,  clean  beds, 
attentive  service,  and  an  obliging,  wide-awake  landlord,  in  the 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


318 

person  of  Count  Solinsky,  who  has  been  Wells,  Fargo  & Co.’s  ex- 
press agent  here  for  over  thirty- five  years.  Then  there  are 
numerous  stores,  and  one  of  the  best  wheelwright  shops  to  be 
found  in  any  country.  Here,  too,  once  lived  the  large-hearted 
and  gifted  physician,  Dr.  Lampson,  whose  genial  face,  so  sadly 
missed  by  old-timed  friends,  will  never  be  looked  upon  again. 

Leaving  “the  cloud-capped  towers  and  gorgeous  palaces  ” of 
Chinese  Camp  behind  us,  our  journey  lies  over  rolling  hills  and 
flat  ravines  to  the  western  side  of  Wood’s  Creek,  down  which  our 
well-graded  road  winds  and  turns,  affording  grand  views  of  a 
wildly  picturesque  country  in  every  direction,  until  we  reach  the 
Tuolumne  River. 

Formerly  our  course  lay  past  Jacksonville,  where  its  resplen- 
dent oaks  gave  acceptable  shade  while  watering  the  horses,  and 
for  having  a pleasant  chat  with  one  of  its  oldest  pioneers,  whom 
everybody  familiarly  called  “Dave  Ackerman.”  This  little 
village  is  supported,  mainly,  by  river  mining  (mostly  monopolized 
now  by  Chinamen)  and  the  placer  diggings  of  Wood’s  Creek. 
Within  a stone’s  throw  of  the  hotel  was  “Smart’s  Garden,”  where 
once  grew  the  earliest  and  finest  of  fruit;  but  which  is  now  a 
desert  waste,  owing  to  its  having  been  “ worked  out”  by  Chinese 
miners,  for  the  rich  placers  of  gold  found  there,  and  which,  follow- 
ing the  course  of  all  gold  dug  out  by  these  people,  was  exported 
to  China.  A short  distance  above  this.  Keith’s  Orchard  and 
Vineyard,  one  of  the  best  cultivated  in  the  State,  and  producing 
some  of  the  choicest  of  fruit,  were  passed ; and  a mile  farther  on, 
the  river  was  crossed  by  the  Steven’s  Bar  Ferry.  Now  all  this 
is  changed,  through  the  enterprise  of  Mr.  J.  R.  Mofiitt,  who  has 
had  a splendid  combination  truss  bridge  thrown  across  the 
Tuolumne  River  Canon,  near  Jacksonville,  capable  of  supporting 
a weight  of  one  hundred  tons.  This  is  called 

MOFFITT’S  TUOLUMNE  CANON  BRIDGE. 

It  is  three  hundred  feet  in  length  (having  a single  span  of 
one  hundred  and  sixty-five  feet),  twelve  feet  in  width,  is  fifty  feet 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


319 


above  low  water  mark;  and  its  floor  is  six  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
above  the  sea.  As  we  stand  upon  this  we  are  for  a moment  at  a 
loss  which  to  admire  most,  the  skill  and  pluck  of  its  builder  and 
owner,  or  the  beautiful  scenes  to  be  witnessed  from  it  on  every 
hand.  When  we  see  how  a broad  road  has  been  hewn  out  of  the 
mountain’s  side,  and  in  all  its  turnings  and  windings  preserved  its 
uniformity  of  breadth  and  excellence;  and  then  note  how  the 
chasm  forming  the  river’s  channel  has  been  spanned  by  so  fine  a 
structure,  we  are  ready  to  accord  due  and  admiring  credit  to  the 
originator  of  the  undertaking,  and  yet  not  forego  the  pleasure  of 
looking  at  the  beautiful  scenery.  By  the  commodious  and  com- 
fortable residence  erected  near  a deliciously  cold  spring,  it  would 
seem  that  Mr.  Moffitt  expects  to  make  his  permanent  home  in  this 
wild  canon. 

After  relieving  one’s  conscience  concerning  the  bridge,  the 
road,  and  their  builder,  a clearer  outlook  can  be  had  of  the  country, 
and  a concise  summary  of  the  whole  will  be  embodied  in  Mr.  John 
Taylor’s  expressive  sentence  concerning  it:  “ Skirting  the  Tuol- 
umne River  for  three  miles,  the  scenery  becomes  picturesque  in 
the  extreme,  the  grand  panorama  ever  changing,  so  as  to  keep 
tourists  and  lovers  of  nature’s  pristine  grandeur  in  one  continual 
ecstasy  of  delight.” 

Leaving  the  main  stream  our  course  is  now  up  one  of  its  trib- 
utaries, for  three  and  a half  miles,  known  as  Moccasin  Creek; 
past  vineyards,  mines,  and  miners.  This  entire  section  becomes 
noteworthy  from  its  prodigality  in  children’s  faces,  seen  at  the 
doors  and  windows  of  its  humble  dwellings.  One  family  numbers 
thirteen,  another  only  eleven,  and  so  on,  exclusive  of  their  fathers 
and  mothers ! Soon  after  crossing  the  bridge  we  come  to  Newhall 
and  Culbertson’s  Vineyard  (for  although  the  former  has  passed 
home  to  the  spirit-land,  the  name  is  still  retained  in  the  firm). 
This  is  another  of  those  wayside  tarrying  places  where  fruit  of 
the  finest  quality  is  in  abundance,  and  where  we  can  obtain  a 
glass  of  the  most  delicious  white  wine  to  be  had  in  any  portion 
of  the  State.  It  is  but  simple  justice  to  these  people  to  say  that 


320 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


their  charges  are  not  only  very  reasonable,  but  always  low. 
Here  the  altitude  above  the  sea,  as  given  by  the  XJ.  S.  (Wheel- 
er’s) Survey,  is  nine  hundred  and  eighty  feet. 

For  the  next  two  and  a quarter  miles  our  road  is  on  the  side 
of  a mountain,  covered  with  a dense  mass  of  shrubbery,  among 
which  wil]  be  found  manzanita,  buckeye,  mountain  mahogany, 
pipe  wood,  Indian  arrow,  granite  wood,  and  numerous  other  kinds ; 
all  of  which,  if  cut  in  the  proper  season, — November  to  March — 
are  hard  and  useful  furniture  woods,  susceptible  of  a very  high 
polish. 

You  will  think  this  quite  a mountain  climb — and  it  is.  It 
will  be  well,  however,  to  bear  in  mind  that,  before  commencing 
the  descent  toward  Yo  Semite,  we  have  to  attain  an  altitude  of 
nearly  seven  thousand  feet  from  our  starting  point;  we  must, 
therefore,  commence  ascending  somewhere,  and  why  not  here? 
It  will  be  a task  upon  our  patience,  perhaps,  but  as  it  seems  to  be 
a trial  of  both  wind  and  muscle  to  the  horses,  we  may  surely  con- 
sole ourselves  with  the  thought  that  we  can  stand  it — if  they  can. 
Up,  up  we  toil,  many  of  us  on  foot,  perhaps,  in  order  to  ease  the 
faithful  and  apparently  overtasked  animals,  which  puff  and  snort 
like  miniature  locomotives,  while  the  sweat  drops  from  them  in 
abundance.  In  two  and  a quarter  miles  there  is  a clear  gain  in 
altitude  of  one  thousand  five  hundred  and  seventy-eight  feet, 
between  Culbertson’s  Vineyard  and  Priest’s  Hotel. 

One  quiet  evening,  in  the  height  of  summer,  after  the  sun 
had  set,  and  the  deep  purple  atmosphere  peculiar  to  California 
had  changed  to  somber  gray,  we  (the  passengers)  were  wending 
our  way  up  the  mountain  on  foot,  and  a little  ahead  of  the  stage, 
when  a rustling  sound,  just  below  the  road,  startled  us  with  its 
singular  and  suspicious  distinctness,  and  dark  shadowy  forms 
were  seen  gently  threading  their  way  among  the  bushes.  Our 
hearts  beat  uncomfortably  fast,  and  we  instinctively  felt  for  our 
revolvers,  but  they  were  in  the  stage ! It  should  be  told  that  at 
this  time  numerous  robberies  had  been  committed  upon  the  high- 
way by  Joaquin,  Tom  Bell,  and  their  respective  gangs.  “ We  are 


THE  TO  EE  MITE  VALLEY. 


321 


caught,”  whispered  one.  “ They  will  rob,  and  perhaps  murder 
us,”  suggested  another.  “ We  can  die  but  once,”  bravely  retorted 
a third.  “ Let  us  all  keep  close  together,”  pantomimed  a fourth. 
“ Who  goes  there?”  loudly  challenged  a fifth.  “A  friend,”  ex- 
claimed the  ring-leader  of  a party  of  miners  who  were  climbing 
the  steep  sides  of  the  mountain  just  at  our  side,  with  their  blankets 
at  their  backs,  all  walking  to  town,  and  who  had  caused  all  our 
alarm;  and  as  he  and  his  companions  quietly  seated  themselves 
by  the  road-side,  they  commenced  wiping  off  the  perspiration,  and 
gave  us  cordial  salutation  in  good  plain  English.  “ Why,  bless 
us,  these  men,  who  have  almost  frightened  us  out  of  our  seven 
senses,  are  fellow-travelers!”  “Couldn’t  you  see  that?”  now 
valorously  inquired  one  whose  knees  had  knocked  uncontrollably 
together  with  fear  only  a few  moments  before.  At  this  we  all 
laughed;  and  the  coachman  having  stopped  his  stage,  said,  “ Get 
in,  gentlemen;”  and  we  had  enough  to  talk  of  and  to  joke  about 
until  we  reached  Priest’s  Hotel,  at  the  top  of  the  hill. 

priest’s  hotel. 

Travelers  in  many  lands  have  made  frequent  confessions  to 
the  writer,  that  this  unpretentious  wayside  inn  is  among  the  most 
comfortable  and  enjoyable  they  have  ever  found  in  any  country. 
Could  commendatory  volumes  written  upon  it  therefore  say  more? 
Many,  many  times  have  I tested  it,  and  can  both  conscientiously 
and  emphatically  indorse  every  sentiment  uttered  in  its  praise. 
For  although  it  will  not,  I trust,  be  deemed  out  of  place  to  say,  in 
all  kindness,  that  no  traveler  should  expect  to  find  meals  and  ac- 
commodations in  the  mountains  of  California  equal  to  those  of 
the  Palace  Hotel,  the  Grand,  the  Baldwin,  the  Occidental,  or  the 
Lick  House  of  San  F rancisco,  no  one  will  leave  this  hospice  with- 
out carrying  away  with  him  the  conviction  that  these  people  are 
among  the  too  limited  number  of  those  “ who  know  how  to  keep 
a hotel;”  and  regretfully  riding  away  from  its  hospitable  door, 
leave  the  best  of  good  wishes  behind  them.  What  more  then 
can  be  said? 


322 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


A DOG  STORY. 

Now  Priest’s  at  one  time  had  a very  remarkable  dog  (there 
is  no  doubt  about  that  fact),  which  writers  have  accredited  with 
the  wonderful  intelligence  of  knowing  the  exact  time  the  upward- 
bound  passengers  were  due  for  dinner  ; when  he  would  start  off 
with  a bound  down  the  hill,  and,  meeting  the  stage,  would  look 
steadfastly  at  the  inside  for  a few  moments,  as  though  counting 
the  number  of  people  to  be  found  there,  and  then  scamper  back 
up  the  hill.  Instead  of  lying  down  in  front  of  the  hotel  (his  usual 
and  favorite  pastime,  as  well  as  that  of  other  dogs),  he  would  de- 
liberately make  for  the  poultry  yard;  and,  seizing  the  youngest 
and  plumpest  of  its  tenants,  would  carry  it  at  once  to  the  cook, 
repeating  this  until  the  requisite  number  was  provided!  Now,  it 
might  seem  to  be  a wanton,  and,  perhaps,  an  envious  act  on  my 
part  to  attempt  to  destroy  the  effect  of  a good  story  by  question- 
ing its  reliability  in  the  smallest  degree;  yet,  I cannot  resist  the 
temptation  of  submitting,  whether  or  not  the  tenderness,  juici- 
ness, and  flavor  of  the  well-cooked  chicken  found  upon  the  table, 
might  not  be  somewhat  in  conflict  with  placing  implicit  confidence 
in  that  statement?  But  this  I do  know,  that  he  would  at  any 
time,  unharmedly,  seize  any  fowl  pointed  out  to  him,  and  take  it 
direct  to  his  master. 

The  commanding  view  from  the  porch,  and  especially  that 
from  the  hill  at  the  back  of  the  house,  not  only  presents  the  broad 
valleys  below,  with  their  glinting  streams,  and  clumps  of  oaks, 
but  the  bold  outline  of  the  Coast  Range  bordering  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  and  all  the  intermediate  landscape.  Frequently,  too,  the 
whole  country  seems  flooded  with  billowy  clouds,  over  the  tops 
of  which  peaks  and  mountain  ranges  stand  boldly,  out  in  the 
transparent  atmospheric  strata  above  them. 

BIG  OAK  FLAT. 

When  leaving  Priest’s  we  must  not  omit  to  notice  the  evi- 
dences of  mining  on  every  hand,  even  if  we  forget  the  unpleasant 
fact  that  a miner’s  labors  invariably  bring  desolation  to  the  land- 


The  Domes  of  Yo  Semit 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


323 


scape.  Nor  must  we  pass  unseen  the  sturdy,  branch-lopped,  and 
root-cut  veteran  trunk  of  a noble  and  enormous  oak,  Quercus 
lobata;  some  eleven  feet  in  diameter,  now  prostrate,  on  our  right ; 
as  it  was  from  this  once  famous  tree  that  “Big  Oak  Flat,”  the 
village  through  which  we  pass,  and  the  route,  received  their  names. 
Then,  however,  its  immense  branch-crowned  top  gave  refreshing 
shadow  to  the  traveler,  and  beauty  to  the  scene.  We  fear  that 
many  a year  will  have  made  its  faithful  record  before  our  virtues 
become  sufficiently  Christian  to  confess  personal  forgiveness  to 
those  who  committed,  or  even  permitted,  the  vandal  act  of  its 
destruction.  We  take  real  comfort  in  the  thought  that  its  storm- 
beaten,  dead,  limbless,  and  prostrate  form  must  daily  administer 
stinging  reproofs  to  every  one  whose  act,  or  silence,  gave  sanc- 
tion to  the  deed. 

As  we  spin  along  among  pines  and  firs,  the  deliciously 
bracing  “champagne  atmosphere”  (as  a lady  friend  so  naively 
expresses  it),  is  quaffed  with  a delightful  and  thrilling  zest  that 
makes  itself  felt  through  every  nerve  tissue  of  our  being.  Even 
the  brief  delay  at  Groveland  (a  bustling  little  mining  town)  to 
change  the  mail,  only  postpones  the  pleasure,  that  is  renewed  the 
moment  we  advance. 

CHAFFEY  AND  CHAMBERLAIN’S. 

The  gardens,  vineyards,  and  orchards  that  are  passed  only 
add  agreeable  variety.  But,  speaking  of  orchards;  at  Garrote 
(such  name-givers  deserved  to  be  garroted!),  the  last  mining 
town  passed  on  the  journey  (there  are  several),  let  me  caution 
you  against  stopping  at  Chaffey  and  Chamberlain’s  (two  affection- 
ate and  noble-natured  old  bachelors  who  have  lived  and  mined 
together  for  over  thirty  years) ; for  the  large  and  luscious  fruits 
they  take  so  much  pride  in  producing  will  be  sure  to  tempt  you 
to  eat  again  (and  so  soon  after  leaving  Priest’s,  you  know),  and  it 
is  a long  way  to  the  doctor’s!  Before  leaving  here,  let  me  call 
especial  attention  to  two  species  of  beautiful  oaks ; one  is  the  weep- 
ing white  oak,  Quercus  lobata;  and  the  other  a live  oak,  Quercus 


324 


► IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


chrysolepis,  as  they  are  among  the  best  representatives  of  that 
family  that  I have  ever  seen,  anywhere. 

A COSTLY  PIECE  OF  ENGINEERING. 

A short  ascent  up  a somewhat  steep  hill,  brings  us  to  the 
ups  and  downs  of  a ridge  road,  with  timber  and  shrubbery  on 
both  sides.  The  large  ditch  we  cross  several  times  is  that  of  the 
Golden  Rock  Water  Company,  constructed  for  the  purpose  of 
supplying  the  mining  towns  below  with  water  for  mining  pur- 
poses. This  work  will  be  seen  at  different  times  until  we  pass 
the  “Big  Gap;”  where  still  lie  the  burnt  fragments  of  a flume, 
once  the  pride  of  its  engineers,  as  the  finest  wooden  structure  of 
the  kind  in  the  State,  with  a height  of  two  hundred  and  sixty- 
four  feet  above  the  Gap,  and  a length  of  two  thousand  two  hun- 
dred feet;  costing  the  snug  little  amount  of  pocket-change  of 
eighty  thousand  dollars.  A strong  wind  one  night  told  the  sad 
story,  that  “ the  best  laid  plans  of  mice  and  men  gang  aft  aglee,” 
and  made  it  a total  wreck.  Now,  a large  iron  tube  placed  upon 
the  ground  answers  the  purpose  of  the  flume.  This  only  cost  some 
twelve  thousand  dollars.  An  immense  deposit  of  “tailings”  at 
the  “ Little  Gap”  we  are  now  passing,  with  the  water-torn  banks  of 
a gravelly  hill  standing  near,  tell  that  the  work  of  hydraulic  min- 
ing has  but  recently  ceased  here. 

Hamilton’s. 

A little  beyond  this  we  come  to  a bright  little  home-like 
spot  called  “ Hamilton’s;”  and,  while  the  horses  are  being  changed, 
the  opportunity  will  be  afforded  of  making  the  acquaintance  of 
its  owners.  Mrs.  Hamilton,  who  is  the  presiding  genius  of  the 
household  (her  husband  probably  being  busy  on  the  farm),  can 
cook  as  nice  a meal  as  almost  any  one,  and  by  adding  a little 
spice  of  praise  to  this  or  that  upon  the  table  (not  to  the  cooking, 
remember,  as  she  is  too  modest  for  that),  induce  you  to  find  an 
appetite  to  eat  it ; but  as  the  stage  arrangements  may  not  allow 
of  such  a test,  she  will  be  sure  to  have  some  kind  of  fruit  to  ofler ; 
and,  if  that  is  out  of  season,  has  always  a kindly  word,  and  a re- 
freshing glass  of  water  to  give  you.  Try  it. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


325 


As  we  advance  it  is  evident  that  the  timber  becomes  larger 
and  the  forest  land  more  extensive.  The  gently  rolling  hills 
begin  to  give  way  to  tall  mountains;  and  the  quiet  and  even  tenor 
of  the  landscape  changes  to  the  wild  and  picturesque.  An  occa- 
sional deer  may  shoot  across  our  track;  or  covies  of  quail,  with 
their  beautiful  plumage  and  nodding  “ topknots,”  whirr  among 
the  bushes.  The  robin,  and  meadow-lark,  and  oriole  may  prove 
to  us  that  they  still  have  a love  and  a voice  for  music;  and  the 
“ too-coo-”ing  of  the  dove  tells  that  its  sweetly  mournful  voice 
“ is  still  heard  in  our  land.” 

A FORETASTE  OF  GRAND  SCENES. 

But  who,  in  feeble  language,  can  fully  disclose  the  grandeur 
of  the  scenery  that  opens  before  us  a short  distance  east  of  the 
Big  Gap?  When  the  painter’s  art  can  build  the  rainbow  upon 
canvas  so  as  to  deceive  the  sense  of  sight — when  simple  words 
can  tell  the  depth  and  height,  the  length  and  breadth  of  a single 
thought — or  the  metaphysician’s  skill  delineate,  beyond  peradvent- 
ure,  the  hidden  mysteries  of  a living  soul — then,  ah ! then,  it  may 
be  possible. 

Deep  down  in  an  abyss  before  us  is  a gulf — a canon — of  more 
than  two  thousand  feet.  The  gleaming,  silvery  thread,  seen  run- 
ning among  bowlders,  is  the  Tuolumne  River,  a hundred  feet  in 
width.  Its  rock-ribbed  sides,  in  places,  show  not  a vestige  of  a 
tree  or  shrub.  In  others,  its  generous  soil  has  clothed  the  almost 
perpendicular  walls  with  verdure.  As  the  eye  wanders  onward 
and  upward,  it  traces  the  pine-clad  outlines  of  distant  gorges, 
whose  tributary  waters  compose  and  swell  the  volume  of  the 
stream  beneath  us.  To  the  right,  surrounded  by  noble  trees,  can 
be  discerned  a bright  speck — it  is  a water-fall  a hundred  feet  in 
height  and  thirty  feet  in  width.  In  the  far  distance,  piercing  the 
clouds,  the  snow-covered  peaks  of  the  Sierras  lift  their  glorious 
heads  of  sheen,  while  a beautiful  purple  haze  casts  its  broad,  soft- 
ening mantle  over  all.  Our  road,  shaded  by  lofty  pines  and  um- 
brageous oaks,  and  cooled  by  a delicious  breeze,  lies  safely  near 


326 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


the  edge  of  the  precipice;  the  whole  panorama  rolled  vividly  out 
before  us.  It  is  such  scenes  as  this  that  introduce  such  grateful 
changes  to  such  a journey. 

Just  beyond  this  we  arrive  at  Elwell’s,  Colfax  Springs; 
another  pleasant  little  wayside  house,  and  soon  thereafter  cross  the 
south  fork  of  the  Tuolumne  River,  at  the  lower  bridge;  then  wind 
our  way  up  a long  hill,  over  to  Hardin’s  Ranch ; and  after  re- 
crossing the  south  fork  by  the  upper  bridge,  ascend  another  long 
hill,  and  are  then  at  the  justly  famous  lunch  house  of 

crocker’s. 

The  pretty  little  garden,  bright  with  flowers,  bespeaks  a 
cheery  welcome  almost  before  we  alight,  and  the  look  of  cleanli- 
ness everywhere  apparent  prepares  the  way  for  an  appetizing 
meal.  There  is  no  hurry,  no  excitement;  a quiet  wash,  followed 
by  the  quiet  announcement  that  “ lunch  is  ready,”  and  we  are 
ushered  into  a room  where  a most  elegant  repast  awaits  us.  It 
is  but  simple  justice  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Crocker,  to  say  that  their 
table  is  loaded  with  creature  comforts,  and  in  such  abundance  and 
variety  that  even  the  most  delicate  or  fastidious  can  find  some- 
thing they  can  relish  and  enjoy.  There  are  but  few  places  upon 
earth,  if  there  are  any,  where  a more  excellent  refection  can  bo 
obtained,  or  one  be  more  pleasantly  served. 

Still  our  course  is  upward,  until  we  have  reached  a long 
stretch  of  elevated  table-land  that,  for  timber,  is  not  excelled  in 
any  portion  of  the  State.  Large  sugar-pine  trees,  Pinus  Lam- 
bertian a;  from  five  to  ten  feet  in  diameter,  and  over  two  hundred 
feet  in  height,  devoid  of  branches  for  sixty  or  a hundred  feet,  and 
straight  as  an  arrow,  everywhere  abound.  Besides  these  there 
are  thousands  of  yellow  pines,  Pinus  ponder osa;  Douglas  firs, 
Abies  Douglasii ; and  cedar,  Libocedrus  decurrens;  that  are  but 
little,  if  any,  smaller  or  shorter  than  the  sugar-pines.  These 
forests  are  not  covered  up  with  a dense  undergrowth,  as  at  the 
East,  but  give  long  and  ever-changing  vistas  for  the  eye  to  pene- 
trate. 


TIIE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY, \ 


327 


Mr.  George  McQuesten,  of  East  Boston,  measured  one  of 
the  prostrate  sugar-pine  trees  in  this  grove,  with  the  following  re- 
sults: Circumference,  three  feet  from  base,  twenty-one  feet  ten 
inches;  fifty  feet  from  base,  fourteen  feet  six  inches;  one  hun- 
dred feet  from  base,  eleven  feet  three  inches ; one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  from  base,  eight  feet  six  inches ; two  hundred  feet  from  base, 
four  feet  three  inches ; two  hundred  and  nine  feet  from  base,  two 
feet  three  inches.  This  might  have  been  from  twenty  feet  to  forty 
feet  higher  when  standing.  It  contained  nineteen  thousand  five 
hundred  and  sixty  running  feet  of  lumber,  or  one  thousand  seven 
hundred  and  eighty  cubic  feet,  after  deducting  ten  per  cent  for 
saw  scarfs.  Value  in  Boston,  less  cost  of  carriage  and  sawing, 
$195.  While  thinking,  and  almost  dreaming  of  forest  scenes,  we 
have  arrived  at 

THE  TUOLUMNE  GROVE  OF  BIG  TREES. 

* These  are  of  the  same  genus,  Sequoia  gigantea,  as  those  of 
Calaveras,  Mariposa,  and  other  groves;  many  fine  specimens  of 
which  stand  by  the  road-side,  or  can  be  readily  seen  without  leav- 
ing the  coach ; but  none  can  realize  their  large  proportions  without 
standing  up  against  one,  or  walking  around  it.  Besides,  it  rests 
us  to  walk  a little,  and  adds  much  to  the  interest  to  touch  their 
enormous  sides.  There  are  about  thirty  in  this  group,  well  pro- 
portioned, and  excellent  representatives  of  the  class.  Two  of  them 
which  grew  from  the  same  root,  and  unite  a few  feet  above  the 
base,  are  called  the  “ Siamese  Twins.”  These  are  about  one  hun- 
dred and  fourteen  feet  in  circumference  at  the  ground,  and,  con- 
sequently, about  thirty-eight  feet  in  diameter — of  course  including 
both.  The  bark  has  been  cut  on  one  side  of  one  of  them  and  has 
been  found  to  measure  twenty  inches  in  thickness.  Near  the 
“Twins”  there  are  two  others  which  measure  seventy -four  feet 
around  their  base. 

THE  DEAD  GIANT. 

One  of  the  most  striking  examples  of  the  extraordinary 
growth  of  this  species  is  found  in  the  immense  stump  called  “The 


Photo,  by  Geo.  Fiske  ' Engraved  by  Heliotype  Co.,  Boston. 

THE  DEAD  GIANT  (3l  f£et  in  diameter  ) 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


329 


Dead  Giant,”  for,  although  fire  has  entirely  denuded  it  of  its  bark, 
and  largely  reduced  its  proportions,  it  is  even  now  thirty-one  feet 
in  diameter.  By  the  earthy  ridges  that  form  around  almost  every 
forest  tree,  it  is  plainly  evident  that  this,  at  one  time,  must  have 
had  a circumference  of  over  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  For 
the  purpose  of  enabling  visitors  more  easily  to  apprehend  its 
enormous  size,  a “ tunnel  ” has  been  cut  through  it  which  is  ten 
feet  in  width  by  twelve  in  height,  and  through  which  the  stage 
coach  passes  when  either  going  or  returning  to  Yo  Semite.  There 
is  no  more  convincing  evidence  of  size  than  this  in  either  of  the 
groves — if  we  except  the  “ Stump  ” at  Calaveras.  Within  a few 
yards  of  this  grows  one  of  the  finest  and  most  symmetrical  repre- 
sentatives of  this  wondrous  family. 

“Excelsior”  being  our  motto,  we  shall  soon  reach  “Crane 
Flat.”  These  flats  are  grassy  meadows,  interspersed  among  the 
mountain  districts,  and  are  generally  the  heads  of  creeks  or  rivers, 
being  almost  always  “springy.”  Of  late  years  they  are  fed  off 
by  bands  of  sheep,  brought  from  the  plains  when  the  feed  there 
has  become  short  or  dry.  Running  upon  or  over  trails,  they  are 
apt  to  obliterate  all  traces  of  the  traveler’s  course,  and  where  a 
short  turn  is  made,  great  care  is  needed,  by  the  inexperienced,  to 
prevent  being  lost.  Crane  Flat,  kept  by  Mrs.  Gobin,  was  once 
celebrated  for  the  excellence  of  its  meals,  when  horseback  riding- 
was  the  only  method  of  reaching  Yo  Semite.  Its  wrecked  build- 
ings now  tell  their  own  story  of  the  effects  of  deep  snow.  Here 
the  stage  possibly  changes  horses,  and  thirsty  passengers  take  a 
drink  with  Mr.  Hurst  (whom  nearly  all  the  old-timers  affection- 
ately call  “ Billy  Hurst”). 

One  of  the  obstacles  to  be  overcome  for  early  season  travel 
to  Yo  Semite  on  the  Big  Oak  Flat  Route  was  the  deep  snow  belt 
of  some  ten  miles,  lying  between  the  Tuolumne  Big  Tree  Grove 
and  Gentry’s;  the  highest  part  of  the  road  being  seven  thousand 
feet  above  sea  level.  Here  snow  would  be  from  six  to  twenty 
feet  deep.  To  shovel  all  this  out  was  a herculean  and  expensive 
undertaking,  while  building  walls  of  snow  that  reached  far  above 


330  m THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


the  tops  of  stage  coaches.  Then,  the  glaring  sheen  of  the  sun- 
shine on  a white  surface  wTas  exceedingly  trying  to  the  eyes  of 
the  shovelers,  and  frequently  brought  snow-blindness;”  attended 
with  the  discomfort,  and  unhealthiness,  of  working  in  wet  snow 
that  chilled  their  lower  limbs  while  the  entire  upper  part  of  their 
body  was  steaming  with  perspiration.  These  difficulties,  there- 
fore, must  be  conquered  by  other  means.  But,  how?  That 
query  brought  forth  another:  Why  not  put 

SNOW-SHOES  ON  THE  HORSES? 


This  experiment  was  accordingly  tried,  and  proven  to  be 
most  eminently  successful.  A glance  at  the  accompanying  en- 
graving will  give  an  idea  of  their  form,  and  the  manner  of  their  use. 


HORSE  ON  SNOW-SHOES. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


331 


The  horse  snow-shoe  is  made  of  one  inch  ash  plank,  thirteen 
inches  long  by  eleven  wide.  It  is  rounded  at  the  corners  to  pre- 
vent striking,  or  chafing ; and  a hollow  is  cut  at  the  back  to  allow 
full  play  to  the  shoe,  without  cutting  or  bruising  the  leg.  There 
are  three  holes  mortised  in  the  upper  surface  of  the  snow-shoe,  the 
exact  size  and  shape  of  the  horse-shoe  calks,  and  which  are  in- 
serted therein,  to  keep  the  foot  in  its  place,  and  give  solidity  to 
the  tread.  To  make  the  snow-shoe  clutch  the  horse’s  hoof  snugly, 
well-fitting  flat  bands  of  Norway  iron,  lined  with  thick  india- 
rubber  cloth,  are  placed  across  and  clip  it;  these  meet  in  the 
center  of  the  foot,  where  they  are  brought  together  by  an  adjust- 
able screw-bolt ; the  lower  ends  of  these  bands  pass  through  the 
snow-shoe,  to  which  they  are  fastened  by  a bolt  and  nut,  and 
become  assistant  tighteners  of  the  clip.  On  the  under  side  the 
snow-shoe,  and  additional  to  the  bolt  and  nut,  an  irregular  and 
almost  heart-shaped  flange  of  steel,  about  half  an  inch  in  depth,  is 
riveted,  nearly  covering  the  bottom  of  the  shoe,  and  which  pre- 
vents sliding  in  any  direction,  while  adding  to  its  strength  To 
prevent  the  snow-shoe  from  splitting,  a fine  bolt  is  run  through 
each  end. 

When  every  foot  is  equipped  with  one  of  these,  each  of  the 
four  horses  forming  the  team  is  ready  for  the  start.  Now  the 
interesting  essay  of  using  them  commences.  Each  animal  seems 
to  have  an  intuitive  knowledge  of  what  they  are  for,  as  of  the 
duties  expected  of  them ; for,  carefully  lifting  the  foot  higher  than 
he  would  under  ordinary  circumstances,  with  a somewhat  rotary 
and  semi-oscillatory  movement,  he  throws  the  foot  forward,  and 
one  shoe  over  the  other,  with  such  intelligent  dexterity  that  they 
rarely  touch  each  other;  and  invariably  manages  to  take  the 
front  snow-shoe  out  of  the  way,  before  setting  the  hind  one  in  its 
place.  There  is  no  confusion  or  even  awkwardness  in  their  use, 
although  there  is  in  appearances  when  seeing  horses  in  such  un- 
gainly-looking appendages. 

I speak  from  personal  observation,  after  several  delightful 
sleigh  rides  over  that  snow-belt  with  Joe  Mulligan  (we  all  know 


332 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


him  by  that  unpretentious  and  familiar  cognomen  only),  whose 
patient  care,  skill,  and  watchful  management  of  his  horses,  under 
the  most  trying  circumstances,  occasionally,  elicited  my  warmest 
admiration.  The  gait  uphill  was  a quiet  walk,  at  the  rate  of 
about  three  miles  an  hour,  performed  with  no  more  excitement  or 
friction  than  a heavily-laden  team  would  use,  in  moving  its  load 
upon  a level  road.  Downhill  we  frequently  took  a short  trot, 
and  which,  like  the  walk  uphill,  was  accomplished  without 
clumsiness.  The  time  generally  consumed  in  crossing  the  ten 
miles  of  snow  was  about  three  and  a half  hours. 

To  illustrate  how  much  such  pioneer  path-finders  over  snow 
have  sometimes  to  endure,  it  is  only  necessary  to  sketch  a single 
“ first  trip  of  the  season.”  There  were  three  strong  men,  Mulli- 
gan, Billings,  and  Wood,  who  left  Crocker’s  early  one  April  morn- 
ing for  Crane  Flat,  some  six  miles  distant,  with  a coach  and  four 
good  horses,  sleigh,  horse  snow-shoes,  shovels,  axes,  ropes  and 
other  desirable  accessories  for  such  an  enterprise.  Deep  new 
snow  had  made  progress  exceedingly  slow  and  difficult.  At  two 
o’clock  on  the  following  morning  they  succeeded  in  reaching  the 
point  designated,  but  no  signs  of  buildings  were  visible  in  all  the 
snowy  waste.  They  could  see  large  hillocks  of  snow,  but  no  place 
wherein  to  shelter  themselves  and  horses.  Finally,  as  day  was 
breaking,  they  found  the  bearings  of  the  stable  door;  and,  weary 
as  they  were,  commenced  shoveling  away  the  feathery  element  in 
front,  in  order  to  give  their  tired  animals  a place  of  refuge,  and 
necessary  food.  An  entrance  to  the  stable  was  eventually  secured ; 
but,  as  the  snow  was  some  eighteen  feet  in  depth,  and  a passage- 
way down  to  the  floor  would  be  the  work  of  many  industrious 
hours,  they  led  each  horse,  separately,  as  near  as  possible  to  the 
opening  effected ; when,  by  fastening  one  rope  around  the  head,  and 
another  to  the  tail  of  each  animal,  they  lowered  them  into  their 
quarters  for  the  night,  by  sliding  them  down  over  the  snow ; and, 
being  too  tired  to  eat,  the  men  rolled  themselves  up  in  their 
blankets,  and  forgot  the  fatigues  of  the  day  in  refreshing  sleep. 

About  ten  o’clock  A.  M.,  they  found  themselves  outside  of 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


333 


their  breakfasts  (as  they  expressed  it),  and  were  again  upon  the 
snow — one  might  have  said  the  road,  but  that  lay  from  sixteen  to 
twenty  feet  below  the  surface.  Spending  this  day  also  in  weary- 
ing and  unflinching  effort,  they  only  broke  the  way  to  the  top  of 
the  ridge,  some  two  and  a half  miles  distant,  and  then  returned 
to  their  inhospitable  quarters  at  Crane  Flat  for  that  night  also. 
On  the  following  day  they  again,  undauntedly,  set  their  own  and 
horses’  faces  towards  Yo  Semite,  still  some  sixteen  miles  distant. 
Its  mountain  peaks,  and  cheery  open  fire-places,  far  down  out  of 
the  snow,  became  delightfully  stimulating  day-dreams  to  them ; 
and,  about  nine  o’clock  p.  M.,  Tamarack  Flat  had  been  gained, 
and  five  additional  miles  overcome,  leaving  eleven  only  to  be  con- 
quered. Here,  also,  the  snow  was  as  deep  as  at  their  stopping- 
place  of  the  two  preceding  nights;  and  similar  experiences  in 
snow-shoveling,  and  horse-sliding  down  to  the  stable  floor,  had  to 
be  indulged  in  until  long  after  midnight.  Hungry  as  wolves, 
most  of  the  remaining  portion  of  the  night  was  spent  in  cooking 
and  eating,  and  the  residue  only  devoted  to  renewing  slumber. 

Notwithstanding  these  protracted  wrestlings  with  their  white- 
faced enemy,  their  motto,  “ There’s  no  such  word  as  fail.”  was  not 
only  inscribed  upon  their  determined  faces,  but  was  written  deeply 
in  their  wills  and  hearts ; and  as  soon  as  a passage-way  out  for 
their  horses  could  be  dug  through  the  snow,  and  the  snow-shoes 
were  adjusted  to  the  animals,  they  made  the  crisp  air  ring  with 
the  shout,  “Ho!  for  Yo  Semite,”  and  again  started  forward.  On 
reaching  Cascade  Creek  Bridge  they  found  the  snow  piled  upon 
it  as  deep  and  as  steep  as  the  roof  of  a Swiss  cottage;  but,  with 
shovels  in  hands,  as  defiant  of  obstacles  as  ever,  they  dug  a path- 
way across  it,  led  the  horses  over  in  single  file,  pulled  over  the 
sleigh  with  ropes,  and  again  set  out  for  the  Valley.  Before  noon 
they  reached  the  lower  edge  of  the  snow-belt,  and  the  solid  earth ; 
where  they  left  their  sleigh,  and  horse  snow-shoes,  and  by  three 
o’clock  P.  M.  were  safely  at  the  hotels  at  Yo  Semite.  Pluck, 
human  endurance,  and  determination,  had  conquered  a victory. 
All  honor  to  such  noble  and  unremitting  exertion. 


334 


IN  THE  HEART  OE  THE  SIERRAS. 


Nor  were  these  by  any  means  the  only  efforts  that  were  made 
to  overcome  the  elemental  forces  in  antagonism  to  early  tourist 
travel  to  Yo  Semite;  inasmuch  as  Mr.  A.  H.  Washburn,  the 
energetic  superintendent  of  the  Yo  Semite  Stage  and  Turnpike 
Company,  and  assistants,  had  pressed  every  available  man  into 
service  on  the  southern  side  of  the  great  chasm ; to  shovel  snow, 
chop  out  limbs  and  trees  that  had  fallen  across  the  road,  drain 
and  repair  the  road-bed,  rebuild  road  walls  and  bridges,  and  per- 
form all  sorts  of  other  and  similar  services,  before  coaches  could 
safely  and  expeditiously  carry  passengers  into  the  great  Valley. 
Those  who  make  the  journey  later,  and  find  everything  just  as  it 
should  be.  can  form  but  a very  inadequate  idea  of  the  difficulties 
that  have  been  surmounted,  the  labor  performed,  and  money  ex- 
pended in  these  necessary  enterprises. 

Two  and  a half  miles  above  Crane  Flat  the  highest  portion 
of  the  road  is  reached,  being  seven  thousand  feet  above  sea  level ; 
and  which,  lying  upon  the  dividing  ridge  which  separates  the 
Avaters  of  the  Tuolumne  River  from  those  of  the  Merced,  the  out- 
look from  it  is  strikingly  bold.  From  this  ridge  magnificent  views 
of  distant  landmarks,  and  the  snow-covered  peaks  of  the  Sierras 
open  at  brief  intervals  before  us ; while  timber-covered  ridges  and 
gorges  stretch  farther  and  farther  awav  to  the  verge  of  the  dis- 
tant  horizon ; with  an  occasional  mountain  of  verdureless  rock, 
standing  gloriously  out  as  if  to  defy  the  further  encroachments 
of  those  evergreen  masses  of  pines.  There  does  not  seem  to  be 
a foot  of  ground  over  which  we  are  passing  that  has  not  some 
novelty  to  charm  us. 

The  apparently  omnipresent  forest  overarches  our  way;  and 
beautiful  firs,  Abies  concolor  and  A . grandis , the  magnificent 
pines,  P.  Jeffreyi,  F.  ponderosa,  and  P.  Lamberticcna;  and 
“ tamaracks,”  Pinus  contorta,  stand  sentinel  guard  on  every  hand; 
while  patches  of  stunted  manzanita,  Arctostapkylos  glauea,  with 
its  evergreen  leaves  and  fragrant  waxy-like  blossoms ; and  several 
different  species  of  Ceanothus  literally  loading  the  air  with  their 
perfume,  and  brightening  the  landscape  with  their  plumes  of  white 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


335 


and  blue,  attract  our  attention,  until,  by  a gentle  declivity,  we  pass 
Tamarack  Flat,  down  to  Cascade  Creek,  where  the  water  is 
dashing  itself  to  atoms,  that  scintillate  and  sparkle  in  the  sun ; and 
arriving  at  Gentry’s,,  commence  the  descent  of  the  mountain-side 
on  the  Yo  Semite  Turnpike  Road.  Looking  down  the  great  canon 
of  the  Merced  River  from  this  point,  there  opens  before  us  one  of 
the  most  magnificent  and  comprehensive  scenes  to  be  found  any- 
where; as  not  only  can  the  numerous  windings  of  the  river  be 
traced  for  miles,  as  it  makes  its  exit  from  the  valley,  but  its  high 
bluffs  and  distant  mountains  stand  boldly  out.  At  another  turn- 
ing of  the  road  we  look  into  the  profound  and  haze-draped  depths, 
and  up  toward  the  sublime  and  storm-defying  heights,  with 
feelings  all  our  own,  and  behold  Yo  Semite. 

Before  closing  this  chapter  it  becomes  my  pleasant  duty  to 
chronicle  the  historical  fact,  that  the  Big  Oak  Flat  and  Yo  Semite 
Turnpike  Road  Company  was  the  first  ever  organized  for  the 
purpose  of  extending  wagon  road  facilities  beyond  the  settlements 
in  the  direction  of  the  Yo  Semite  Yalley.  When  the  great  over- 
land railroads,  the  Central  Pacific  and  Union  Pacific,  were  near- 
ing completion,  in  1869,  the  question  was  very  properly  considered 
of  providing  easier  transit  for  the  large  class  of  visitors  that  might 
be  attracted  hither ; and  who,  unlike  old  Californians,  were  un- 
accustomed to  horseback  riding.  In  this  emergency  the  residents 
of  Big  Oak  Flat  and  vicinity  were  waited  upon,  and  as  a busi- 
ness lethargy  had  fallen  upon  that  district,  in  the  hope  of  its  re- 
vival somewhat  by  such  an  enterprise,  these  people  formed  a com- 
pany; and  the  road  was  completed  that  year  to  Hardin’s,  leaving 
but  about  twenty -five  miles  to  be  traversed  on  saddle  animals. 
Encouraged  by  the  liberal  patronage  bestowed,  this  was  extended 
the  following  year  to  Hodgdon’s ; and,  during  the  next  two  years, 
to  Gentry’s,  the  northwestern  corner  of  the  Yo  Semite  Grant. 
As  the  company  was  not  financially  strong  enough  then  to  com- 
plete it  to  the  valley,  this  became  the  terminus  of  the  road,  and 
so  continued  until  its  completion  to  Yo  Semite,  July  17,  1874,  on 
which  occasion  over  five  hundred  persons  passed  over  it,  in  a 
kind  of  triumphal  procession. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 


SCENES  TO  BE  WITNESSED  FROM  THE  FLOOR  OF  YO  SEMITE 

VALLEY. 

Who  doth  not  feel,  until  his  failing  sight 
Faints  into  dimness  with  its  own  delight, 

His  changing  cheek,  his  sinking  heart  confess 
The  might,  the  majesty  of  Loveliness? 

— Byron’s  Bride  of  Abydos , Canto  I. 

How  massively  doth  awful  Nature  pile 
The  living  rock. 

— Thomas  Doubleday’s  Literary  Souvenir. 

All  are  but  parts  of  one  stupendous  whole, 

Whose  body  Nature  is,  and  God  the  soul. 

— Pope’s  Essay  on  Man. 

Once  within  the  encompassing  walls  of  the  glorious  Valley, 
and  the  broad  shadows  of  its  mighty  cliffs  are  thrown  over  us  like 
some  mystic  mantle,  fatigued  as  we  may  be,  every  jutting  mount- 
ain, every  pointed  crag,  every  leaping  water-fall,  has  a weird  yet 
captivating  charm,  that  makes  us  feel  as  though  we  were  enter- 
ing some  fictitious  dreamland.  Even  the  rainbow  hues,  which 
are  playfully  toying  with  the  mists  and  sprays  and  beautiful 
rocket-like  forms  of  the  Pohono,  or  Bridal  Veil  Fall;  or  the  mani- 
fold pearly  lights  and  shades  that  are  intermixing  and  commingling 
on  that  marvelous  promontory  of  vertical  granite,  known  as  El 
Capitan,  distributed  broadcast  as  they  are,  only  enhance  the  de- 
lusion. There  comes  a feeling  over  us  akin  to  sympathy  in  the 
thought-painted  picture  of  Mr.  Greeley,  when  entering  the  Valley 
on  the  eventful  first  moonlighted  night  of  his  visit: — 

That  first  full,  deliberate  gaze  up  the  opposite  height!  can  I ever  for- 
get it?  The  valley  is  here  scarcely  half  a mile  wide,  while  its  northern 
wall,  of  mainly  naked,  perpendicular  granite,  is  at  least  four  thousand  feet 

(336) 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


337 


high — probably  more  [since  demonstrated  by  actual  measurement  to  be 
three  thousand  three  hundred].  But  the  modicum  of  moonlight  that  fell 
into  this  awful  gorge  gave  to  that  precipice  a vagueness  of  outline,  an  in- 
definite vastness,  a ghostly  and  weird  spirituality.  Had  the  mountain 
spoken  to  me  in  audible  voice,  or  begun  to  lean  over  with  the  purpose  of 
burying  me  beneath  its  crushing  mass,  I should  hardly  have  been  sur- 
prised. Its  whiteness,  thrown  into  bold  relief  by  the  patches  of  trees  or 
shrubs  which  fringed  or  flecked  it  whenever  a few  handfuls  of  its  moss, 
slowly  decomposed  to  earth,  could  contrive  to  hold  on,  continually  sug- 
gested the  presence  of  snow,  which  suggestion,  with  difficulty  refuted, 
was  at  once  renewed.  And,  looking  up  the  valley,  we  saw  just  such 
mountain  precipices,  barely  separated  by  intervening  water-courses  of  in- 
considerable depth,  and  only  receding  sufficiently  to  make  room  for  a very 
narrow  meadow,  inclosing  the  river,  to  the  furthest  limit  of  vision. 

ENTERING  RIDE  UP  THE  VALLEY. 

Our  road  up  the  Valley  to  the  hotels,  for  the  most  part,  lies 
among  giant  pines,  or  firs,  and  cedars,  from  one  hundred  and 
seventy -five  to  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  height,  and  beneath 
the  refreshing  shade  of  outspreading  oaks.  Not  a sound  breaks 
the  impressive  stillness  that  reigns,  save  the  occasional  chirping 
and  singing  of  birds,  or  the  low,  distant  sighing  of  the  water-falls, 
or  the  breeze  in  the  tops  of  the  trees.  Crystal  streams  occasion- 
ally gurgle  and  ripple  across  our  path,  whose  sides  are  fringed 
with  willows  and  wild  flowers  that  are  almost  ever  blossoming, 
and  grass  that  is  ever  green.  On  either  side  of  us  stand  almost 
perpendicular  cliffs,  to  the  height  of  nearly  thirty-five  hundred 
feet;  on  whose  rugged  faces,  or  in  their  uneven  tops  and  sides, 
here  and  there  a stunted  pine  struggles  to  live;  and  every  crag 
seems  crowned  with  some  shrub  or  tree.  The  bright  sheen  of  the 
river  occasionally  glistens  among  the  dense  foliage  of  the  long 
vistas  that  continually  open  before  us.  At  every  step,  some  new 
picture  of  great  beauty  presents  itself,  and  some  new  shapes  and 
shadows  from  trees  and  mountains,  form  new  combinations  of 
light  and  shade,  in  this  great  kaleidoscope  of  nature;  and  as  we 
ride  along,  in  addition  to  the  Bridal  Veil  Fall  and  El  Capitan,  we 
pass  the  Ribbon  Fall,  Cathedral  Spires,  the  Three  Brothers,  and 


338 


IN'  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


the  Sentinel ; while  in  the  distance  glimpses  are  obtained  of  the 
Yo  Semite  Fall,  Indian  Canon,  North  Dome,  Royal  Arches, 
Washington  Tower,  Cloud’s  Rest,  and  the  Half,  or  South  Dome; 
all  of  which  expressively  suggest  the  treat  there  is  in  store  for  us, 
when  we  can  examine  them  in  detail,  and  enjoy  a nearer  and  more 
satisfying  view  of  their  matchless  wonders. 

Now,  notwithstanding  the  many  objects  of  interest  we  have 
passed,  one  thought  has  probably  obtruded  itself,  and  it  is  this, 
‘‘Shall  we  ever  come  up  to  this  or  that  mountain?”  and  the 
length  of  time  consumed  in  the  attempt  would  seem  to  give  back 
the  nonchalant  and  unfeeling  answer,  “ Never!  ” There  is,  how- 
ever, no  greater  proof  of  the  unrealized  altitudes  of  these  mount- 
ain walls  than  this — the  time  it  takes  to  come  up  with  or  to  pass 
them.  But  amidst  all  these  we  can  possibly  hear  one  ejaculation 
that  seems  to  contain  more  real  satisfaction  in  it  than  any  amount 
of  sight-seeing  just  now.  It  is  this:  “ Thank  goodness,  here  is  the 
hotel ! ” Commending  ourselves  to  its  most  generous  hospitalities, 
we  wish  our  traveling  companions  a temporary  good-by,  and 
prepare  for  the  repast  that  awaits  us. 

Our  creature  comforts  having  supposably  been  well  cared  for 
at  one  or  other  of  the  hotels,  it  is  natural  to  infer  that  the  journey, 
having  been  more  or  less  fatiguing,  has  prepared  us  for  a sweet 
and  refreshing  sleep ; yet  experience  may  prove  that  the  excitement 
attending  our  glorious  surroundings  has  cast  over  us  a stronger 
spell  even  than  that  of  Morpheus,  and  charmed  us  into  wakeful- 
ness, that  we  may  listen  to  the  splashing,  dashing,  washing,  roar- 
ing, surging,  hissing,  seething  sound  of  the  great  Yo  Semite  Falls, 
just  opposite;  or  has  beguiled  us  into  passing  quietly  out  of  our 
resting-place,  to  look  up  between  the  lofty  pines  and  outspreading 
oaks  to  the  granite  cliffs,  that  tower  up  with  such  majesty  of  form 
and  boldness  of  outline  against  the  vast  ethereal  vault  of  heaven ; 
or  to  watch,  in  the  moonlight,  the  ever-changing  shapes  and 
shadows  of  the  water,  as  it  leaps  the  cloud-draped  summit  of  the 
mountain,  and  falls  in  gusty  torrents  on  the  unyielding  granite, 
to  be  dashed  to  an  infinity  of  atoms.  Then,  when  prudential  rea- 


Photo,  by  geo.  Fisk 


Photo-typo  by  Britton  & Rey, 

The;  Nevada  Fall— Yo-wi-ye. 


(See  page  447.) 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


339 


sons  have  wooed  us  back  again  to  our  couch,  we  may  even  there 
have  visions  of  some  tutelary  spirit  of  immense  proportions,  who, 
in  the  exercise  of  his  benignant  functions,  has  vouchsafed  to  us 
his  protecting  genius,  and  admonished  the  water-fall  to  modulate 
the  depth  and  height  of  its  tones  somewhat,  so  that  we  can  sleep 
and  be  refreshed,  and  thus  become  the  better  prepared  to  quaff 
the  delicious  draught  from  this  perennial  fountain,  that  only 
awaits  our  waking  to  satisfy  all  our  longings. 

There  is  a possibility,  however,  that  for  some  time  before  we 
are  prepared  to  sing, 

li  Hail!  smiling  morn,  that  tips  the  hills  with  gold,” 

The  sun  (hours  in  advance  of  a good  honest  look  upon  us,  perhaps, 
deep  down  as  we  are  in  this  awful  gorge)  may  have  been  up,  and 
painting  the  rosiest  of  tints  upon  the  surrounding  domes  and  crags ; 
burnishing  up  their  ridges ; gilding  trees  with  bright  effects ; etch- 
ing lights  and  shadows  in  the  time-worked  furrows  of  the  mount- 
ain’s face,  as  though  he  took  especial  pride  in  bringing  out, 
strongly,  the  wrinkles  which  the  president  of  the  hour-glass  and 
;scythe  has  been  busily  engaged  upon  for  so  many  thousands  of 
years. 

A SUGGESTION  WORTH  ADOPTING. 

And  while  we  are  looking  admiringly  upon  them,  please  per- 
mit me  to  hazard  a suggestion  that  is  born  of  the  experience  and 
teachings  of  a quarter  of  a century  at  Yo  Semite.  It  is  this:  If 
it  is  among  the  possibilities  (and  there  may  exist  such  a possibility 
when  the  subject  is  well  weighed),  no  matter  how  tempting  the 
surrounding  influences  may  be — and  there  is  almost  sure  to  be 
some  restless,  impetuous,  and  irrepressible  spirit  in  nearly  every 
party — if  you  would  make  your  visit  healthful,  restful,  and 
thoroughly  enjoyable,  and  an  ever-present  pleasing  after-thought, 
do  not  attempt  any  very  fatiguing  excursion  the  first  day  after 
arrival.  Devote  it  to  day-dreaming  and  to  rest;  not  absolutely, 
perhaps,  inasmuch  as  a modicum  of  exercise  is  really  better,  in  a 
majority  of  cases,  than  total  inaction;  but  let  it  be  an  easy  jaunt 
among  some  of  the  attractive  scenes  not  very  far  from  the  hotel. 


340 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


Before  satisfying  our  expectant  curiosity,  or  gratifying  a 
love  for  the  sublime  and  beautiful  through  a closer  communion 
with  the  marvelous  grandeur  which  surrounds  us,  permit  me  to 
explain  what  this  great  Yalley  is,  how  it  was  possibly  formed, 
and  the  various  natural  phenomena  connected  with  it;  as  these 
may  form  interesting  themes  for  reflection  and  conjecture,  while 
we  are  wandering  about  among  its  wonderful  scenes. 

WHAT  THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY  IS. 

It  is  a deep,  almost  vertical-walled  chasm,  in  the  heart  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada  Mountains — here  about  seventy  miles  in  breadth — 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  due  east  of  San  Francisco,  and 
thirty  from  the  main  crest  of  the  chain.  Its  sides  are  built  of  a 
beautiful  pearl-gray  granite  of  many  shades  and  colors,  and  are  in 
an  infinite  variety  of  forms.  These  are  from  three  thousand  three 
hundred  to  six  thousand  feet  in  perpendicular  height  above  their 
base.  Over  these  vertical  walls  vault  numerous  water-falls,  that 
make  a clear  leap  of  from  three  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  thousand 
feet;  besides  numerous  bounding  cascades. 

The  altitude  of  the  floor  of  the  Y alley  is  nearly  four  thousand 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  the  measurements  given  of  the 
surrounding  cliffs  and  water-falls  are  mostly  from  this  basis.  Its 
total  area  within  the  encompassing  walls,  according  to  the  report 
of  the  Commissioner  of  the  General  Land  Office,  Washington, 
D.  C.,  comprises  eight  thousand  four  hundred  and  eighty  acres, 
three  thousand  one  hundred  and  nine  of  which  are  meadow  land. 
The  entire  grant  to  the  State,  however,  embraces  thirty-six  thou- 
sand one  hundred  and  eleven  acres,  and  includes  one  mile  beyond 
the  edge  of  the  precipices  throughout  their  entire  circumference. 
The  Yalley  proper  is  about  seven  miles  in  length,  by  from  three- 
quarters  to  one  and  a half  miles  in  width ; yet  the  distance  between 
the  face  of  the  cliff  at  the  Yo  Semite  Fall  and  the  Sentinel,  ac- 
cording to  the  measurements  of  Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney,  is  two  and 
a half  miles.  The  Merced  Biver,  a beautifully  transparent  stream, 
full  of  delicious  trout,  runs  through  it,  with  an  average  width  of 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY.  341 


SCENE  ON  THE  RIVER. 

one  hundred  feet,  and  whose  banks  are  ornamented  with  azaleas 
and  syringas,  and  overarched  with  balm  of  gileads,  alders,  black 
oaks,  pines,  cedars,  and  silver  firs.  This  has  numerous  tributaries, 
which,  after  leaping  the  cliffs,  join  it  in  its  general  course  down 
the  Valley. 

The  general  trend  of  the  Valley  is  northeasterly  and  south- 
westwardly,  a fortunate  circumstance  indeed,  inasmuch  as  the  de- 
lightfully bracing  northwesterly  trade-winds,  which  sweep  the 
Pacific  Ocean  in  this  latitude  during  summer,  course  pleasantly 
through  it,  and  keep  it  exceedingly  temperate  on  the  hottest  of 
days ; so  that  there  is  no  sultry  oppressiveness  of  atmosphere  felt 
here,  as  sometimes  at  the  East.  Besides  this,  the  sun  is  afforded 
the  opportunity  of  looking  into  the  Valley  from  before  six  o’clock 


342 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  TEE  SIERRAS. 


in  the  morning  until  nearly  five  in  the  afternoon,  during  summer, 
instead  of  only  an  hour  or  two  at  most,  had  its  bearings  been 
transversely  to  this.  In  the  short  days  of  winter,  however,  as  the 
hotels  and  other  buildings  are  for  the  most  part  approximately 
nearest  to  the  southern  wall  of  the  Valley,  when  Apollo  goes 
farthest  on  his  southern  rambles,  he  looks  down  upon  them  over 
the  mountain  about  half  past  one  in  the  afternoon,  and  vanishes 
at  half  past  three ; thus  deigning  to  show  his  cheerful  face  only 
about  two  hours  out  of  the  twenty-four ; so  that  the  hotel  side  of 
the  Valley,  so  to  speak,  is  mapped  in  mountain  shadow,  while  the 
opposite  or  northern  side  is  flooded  with  brightness. 

THEORIES  ABOUT  ITS  FORMATION. 

Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney,  for  many  years  State  Geologist,  thus 
expresses  his  views  :*■ — 

Most  of  the  great  canons  and  valleys  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  have  re- 
sulted from  aqueous  denudation,  and  in  no  part  of  the  world  has  this  kind 
of  work  been  done  on  a larger  scale.  The  long-continued  action  of  tre- 
mendous torrents  of  water,  rushing  with  impetuous  velocity  down  the 
slopes  of  the  mountains,  has  excavated  those  immense  gorges  by  which 
the  chain  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  is  furrowed,  on  its  western  slope,  to  the 
depth  of  thousands  of  feet. 

The  eroded  canons  of  the  Sierra, t however,  whose  formation  is  due  to 
the  action  of  water,  never  have  vertical  walls,  nor  do  their  sides  present 
the  peculiar  angular  forms  which  are  seen  in  the  Yosemite,  as,  for  instancej 
in  El  Capitan,  where  two  perpendicular  surfaces  of  smooth  granite,  more 
than  three  thousand  feet  high,  meet  each  other  at  a right  angle.  It  is 
sufficient  to  look  for  a moment  at  the  vertical  faces  of  El  Capitan  and  the 
Bridal  Veil  Rock,  turned  down  the  Valley,  or  away  from  the  direction  in 
which  the  eroding  forces  must  have  acted,  to  be  able  to  say  that  aqueous 
erosion  could  not  have  been  the  agent  employed  to  do  any  such  work. 
The  squarely  cut  re-entering  angles,  like  those  below  El  Capitan,  and 
between  Cathedral  Rock  and  the  Sentinel,  or  in  the  Illilouette  Canon, 
were  never  produced  by  ordinary  erosion.  Much  less  could  any  such  cause 
be  called  into  account  for  the  peculiar  formation  of  the  Half  Dome,  the 

*The  Yosemite  Guide  Book,  page  81. 

+Ibid.,  pages  82,  83,  85. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


343 


vertical  portion  of  which  is  all  above  the  ordinary  level  of  the  Valley,  ris- 
ing two  thousand  feet,  in  sublime  isolation,  above  any  point  which  could, 
have  been  reached  by  denuding  agencies,  even  supposing  the  current  of 
water  to  have  filled  the  whole  Valley. 

In  short,  we  are  led  irresistibly  to  the  adoption  of  a theory  of  the 
origin  of  the  Yosemite  in  a way  which  has  hardly  yet  been  recognized  as 
one  of  those  in  which  valleys  may  be  formed,  probably  for  the  reason  that 
there  are  so  few  cases  in  which  such  an  event  can  be  absolutely  proved  to 
have  occurred.  We  conceive  that,  during  the  process  of  upheaval  of  the 
Sierra,  or,  possibly,  at  some  time  after  that  had  taken  place,  there  was  at 
the  Yosemite  a subsidence  of  a limited  area,  marked  by  lines  of  ‘‘fault ” 
or  fissures  crossing  each  other  somewhat  nearly  at  right  angles.  In  other 
and  more  simple  language,  the  bottom  of  the  Valley  sunk  down  to  an  un- 
known depth , owing  to  its  support  being  withdrawn  from  beneath  * 

The  late  Prof.  Benjamin  Silliman,  of  Yale  College,  thought  that  it 
was  caused  through  some  great  volcanic  convulsion  by  which  the  mount- 
ains were  reft  asunder,  and  a fissure  formed. 

Now  although  I entertain  the  deepest  respect  for  both  those 
gentlemen,  and  their  views,  I am  unable  to  concur  in  their  opinions, 
for  the  following  reasons:  The  natural  cleavage  of  the  granite 
walls  is  not,  for  the  most  part,  vertical,  but  at  an  acute  angle  of 
from  seventy  to  eighty-five  degrees,  as  at  Glacier  Point  and  the 
Royal  Arches ; and  that  of  the  Yo  Semite  Fall  is  not  by  any  means 
vertical,  to  say  nothing  of  the  intermediate  shoulders  between 
such  points  as  Eagle  Tower  and  the  Three  Brothers.  And  al- 
though the  northern  and  western  sides  of  El  Capitan  are  more 
than  vertical,  as  they  overhang  over  one  hundred  feet,  the  abut- 
ting angle  of  that  marvelous  mountain  is  at  an  angle  of  say  eighty 
degrees;  while  its  eastern  spur  consists  of  glacier-rounded  ridges 
that  project  far  into  the  Valley.  With  this  uniform  angle  of 
cleavage  how  could  the  bottom  of  the  Valley  sink  down,  any  more 
than  the  key-stone  of  an  arch?  unless  by  the  displacement  of  its 
supporting  base;  and,  to  concede  this  possibility,  is  to  admit  the 
theory  of  Professor  Silliman  of  the  violent  rending  of  the  mount- 
ains asunder  by  volcanic  co-action,  which,  in  my  judgment,  is  un- 
supported by  convincing  data. 

*The  italics  are  my  own  to  emphasize  the  substance  of  Professor  Whitney’s 
views. 


344 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


To  admit  this  contingency,  moreover,  is  to  pre-suppose  the 
entire  uplifting  and  rending  of  a large  proportion  of  the  solid 
granite  forming  the  great  chain  of  the  High  Sierra;  and  then  of 
its  having  left  only  this  particular  fissure  to  mark  the  co-action 
that  then  took  place — a possible  but  not  probable  result.  It  is  even 
more  than  improbable,  from  the  fact  that  the  solidified  granite 
crossing  every  one  of  its  side  canons,  even  near  to  the  Valley,  is 
everywhere  completely  and  visibly  intact,  so  that  there  is  not  the 
slightest  semblance  of  any  disjunction  whatsoever.  To  my  con- 
victions, therefore,  the  evidences  that  the  Yo  Semite  Valley  was 
ever  formed  by  either  subsidence,  or  volcanic  rending,  are  not 
only  unsatisfactory,  but  are  entirely  absent. 

Nor  is  it  altogether  clear  why  Professor  Whitney,  after  giv- 
ing his  emphatic  opinion  that  “ the  long-continued  action  of 
tremendous  torrents  of  water,  rushing  with  impetuous  velocity 
down  the  slopes  of  the  mountains,  has  excavated  those  immense 
gorges  by  which  the  chain  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  is  furrowed,  on 
its  western  slope,  to  the  depth  of  thousands  of  feet,”  should  make 
the  Yo  Semite  Valley  an  exception;  especially  when  the  premises 
are  so  abundantly  clear  that  it  was  created  by  precisely  similar 
agencies  as  those  of  other  canons — that  of  erosion.  To  illustrate 
this,  let  me  call  attention  to  some  interstices  in  the  face  of  a jut- 
ting spur  of  the  southern  wall  of  the  Valley,  about  midway  be- 
tween the  Sentinel  and  Cathedral  Spires  (see  engraving),  known  as 

THE  FISSURES. 

One  of  these  is  several  hundred  feet  in  depth,  and  yet  not 
over  three  and  a half  feet  across  it.  But  for  its  rounding  edges 
one  could  stand  upon  its  top,  look  into  its  mysterious  depths,  and 
then  step  across  it  to  the  other  side.  There  can  exist  no  doubt  that 
this  has  been  formed  from  a soft  stratum  of  granite,  just  the 
width  of  the  fissure;  and  as  there  is  not  the  smallest  stream  of 
water  running  through  it  (except  when  it  rains),  as  the  elements 
have  disintegrated  the  demulcent  rock,  every  storm  of  wind,  or 
rain,  or  snow,  has  kept  constantly  removing  the  friable  particles 
and  left  only  the  hard  walls  standing. 


Photo,  by  S.  C.  Walker.  Pen  drawing  by  Mrs.  ihodt. 

THE  FISSURE. 


346 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


Making  this  a basis  of  conclusions,  is  it  not  reasonable  to 
suppose  that  there  once  existed  similar  strata  where  the  Valley 
now  is,  and  that  as  the  disintegrating  agencies  completed  their 
work  upon  it,  the  denuding  torrents  of  the  Sierra  swept  over  or 
through  it,  and  carried  off  the  disintegrated  material  to  build  the 
plains  and  valleys  below?  Stand  upon  any  of  the  bridges  which 
now  span  the  Merced  River,  during  high  water,  and  the  floating 
silica  with  which  it  is  laden  will  be  conclusive  evidence  that  the 
same  forces,  on  a comparatively  limited  scale,  are  still  actively 
going  on. 

ITS  FORMATION  ASSISTED  BY  GLACIER  ACTION. 

Nor  has  water,  in  its  liquefied  form  at  least,  been  the  only 
potential  agency  for  cutting  down  and  hewing  out  chasms  like 
this  among  the  High  Sierra,  inasmuch  as  its  polished  valley  floors, 
burnished  mountain-sides  and  tops,  and  vast  moraines,  many 
thousands  of  feet  in  altitude  above  the  Valley,  prove,  beyond  per- 
adventure  or  question,  that  glaciers  of  immense  thickness  once 
covered  all  this  vast  area ; filling  every  gorge,  roofing  every  dome, 
and  overspreading  every  mountain  ridge  with  ice;  the  trend  of 
whose  striations  is  unmistakably  towards  the  channel  of  the  Mer- 
ced River,  mainly  through  its  tributaries.  As  the  Yo  Semite 
Valley  is  but  four  thousand  feet,  above  sea  level,  and  these  glacial 
writings  are  distinctly  traceable  not  only  on  the  walls  of  the  Valley 
and  the  cliffs  above  it,  but  nearly  to  the  summits  of  the  highest 
mountains  east  of  it  (here  over  thirteen  thousand  feet  in  altitude) 
there  can  be  but  little  doubt  that  a vast  field  of  ice  had  pre-exist- 
ence at  Yo  Semite  that  was  over  a mile  and  a half  in  absolute 
thickness  and  depth ! Who,  then,  can  even  conceive,  much  less 
estimate,  the  Cyclopean  force,  and  erosive  power,  of  such  a glacier? 
It  would  seem  that  plowing  into  soft  rock,  tearing  away  of  pro- 
jections, loosening  seamy  blocks,  detaching  jutting  precipices, 
grinding  off  ridges,  scooping  out  hollows  for  future  lakes,  and 
forcing  everything  movable  before  it,  would  be  a mere  frolicsome 
pastime  to  so  irresistible  and  mighty  a giant.  And,  when  that 
pastime  has  been  indulged  in  for  countless  ages,  its  results  may 
be  imagined,  but  cannot  be  comprehended. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


347 


This,  then,  in  my  judgment,  has  been  no  insignificant  factor 
in  broadening  and  deepening  the  chasm  first  cut  here,  as  elsewhere, 
by  water;  and  indicating,  if  not  proving,  that  the  Yo  Semite 
Valley  was  formed  by  erosion , and  not  by  volcanic  action. 

UNCERTAIN  TIME  OF  THE  GLACIAL  PERIOD. 

In  a personal  conference  with  Prof.  Wm,  H.  Brewer,  for- 
merly first  assistant  of  the  State  Geological  Survey  of  California, 
now  of  Yale  College,  New  Haven,  Connecticut,  the  question  was 
asked  him,  “In  about  what  age  of  the  world  was  the  glacial 
period  supposed  to  have  existed?  ” and  the  answer  was,  “ This  has 
not  been  positively  agreed  upon  by  scientists,  as  some  think  it 
was  about  twenty  or  thirty  thousand  years  ago,  others  from  fifty 
to  eighty  thousand,  and  some  contend  that  nearly  one  hundred 
and  fifty  thousand  years  have  elapsed  since  that  time,  and  it  may 
have  been  even  more.”  As  something  will  be  said  about  this,  and 

about  the  moraines  of  the  High  Sierra  when  we  take  our  mount- 

. • 

ain  jaunts  beyond  the  Yo  Semite,  further  present  mention  will  be 
unnecessary. 

NATURAL  PHENOMENA. 

The  thermometer  seldom  reads  higher  than  eighty-six  degrees 
in  summer,  or  lower  than  sixteen  degrees  in  winter,  although  it 
has  been  ninety-five  degrees  (and  even  then  the  heat  was  not  op- 
pressive, owing  to  the  rarefaction  of  the  atmosphere),  and  nearly 
to  zero— never  below  it.  The  usual  ice-harvesting  season  is  from 
December  15th  to  25th,  when  the  days  are  clear,  and  the  temper- 
ature at  night  ranges  from  sixteen  to  twenty-five  degrees;  at 
which  time  ice  forms  from  six  to  eleven  inches  in  thickness,  and 
is  then  taken  from  the  sheltered  eddies  of  the  river.  A good 
quality  of  ice  is  seldom  obtainable  after  the  rains  and  snows  of 
winter  have  fairly  set  in. 

The  first  fall  rain  generally  occurs  about  the  time  of  the 
autumnal  equinox,  in  September;  but  does  not  continue  more  than 
a day  or  two;  when  it  usually  clears  up  and  continues  fine  for 
several  weeks.  ^ It  is  after  this  rain  that  the  first  frost  generally 


348 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


pays  its  timely  visit,  and  commences  to  paint  the  deciduous  trees 
and  shrubs  in  the  brightest  of  autumnal  colors.  Early  in  No- 
vember the  first  snow  generally  begins  to  fall,  when  it  will 
probably  not  deposit  more  than  a few  inches  in  the  Valley,  but 
prove  more  liberal  in  the  mountains,  where  it  sometimes  will  leave 
fifteen  or  twenty  inches.  It  was  in  one  of  these  storms  that  Lady 
Avonmore,  better  know  as  the  Hon.  Theresa  Yelverton,  was  caught, 
alone,  and  being  lost  and  benighted,  came  near  losing  her  life. 
A few  days  thereafter  the  delightfully  balmy  Indian  summer 
weather  sets  in,  and  continues  to  near  the  end  of  December ; when 
old  Winter,  he  with  the  hoary  locks  and  unfeeling  heart,  swoops 
down  in  good  earnest ; and,  turning  his  frosty  key,  keeps  the  in- 
habitants of  Yo  Semite — generally  about  forty  in  number — close 
prisoners  until  the  benignant  smiles  of  the  gentle  angel,  Spring, 
unlocks  the  snowy  doors,  and  again  sets  them  free. 

The  pluvial  downpour  of  an  average  winter  in  Yo  Semite  is 
usually  from  twenty  to  thirty-three  inches,  and  of  snow  from  nine 
to  seventeen  feet.  It  must  not,  however,  be  supposed  that  this 
falls  all  at  once,  or  that  it  ever  aggregates  so  great  a depth,  as  it 
keeps  melting  and  settling  more  or  less  all  the  time ; so  that  I have 
never  known  it  to  exceed  an  average  depth  over  the  Valley  of 
more  than  five  and  a half  feet.  Snow  possesses  the  wonderful 
quality  of  keeping  the  temperature  of  anything  upon  which  it 
falls,  about  the  same  as  it  finds  it ; so  that  if  the  ground  which 
it  covers  is  warm,  it  is  kept  in  that  condition,  and  the  snow  melts 
rapidly  from  beneath;  but,  should  the  earth  be  frozen,  it  retains 
that  temperature,  and  liquefies  mostly  from  above. 

IMPROVED  PROVISIONS  FOR  REACHING  SCENIC  STANDPOINTS. 

To  enable  visitors  to  see  every  point  of  interest  to  the  great- 
est advantage,  the  State,  through  its  Board  of  Yo  Semite  Com- 
missioners, has  constructed  a most  excellent  carriage  road  through- 
out the  entire  circumference  of  the  Valley;  and  which,  including 
that  to  Mirror  Lake  and  the  Cascade  Falls,  opens  up  a drive  of 


THE  BIG  TREE  ROOM,  BARNARD’S. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


349 


over'twenty-one  miles,  that  has  not  its  equal  in  scenic  grandeur 
and  beauty  anywhere  else  on  earth. 

In  addition  to  this,  broad,  safe,  and  well-built  trails  for 
horseback  riding  have  been  made  up  the  canon  of  the  Merced 
River  to  the  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls; over  old  moraines,  to  the 
summit  of  Cloud’s  Rest,  and  to  the  foot  of  Half  Dome ; up  the 
mountain-sides  to  Union  Point,  Glacier  Point,  and  Sentinel  Dome, 
to  Columbia  Rock,  the  foot  and  top  of  the  upper  Yo  Semite  Fall, 
and  Eagle  Peak,  so  that  impressive  views  may  be  enjoyed  of  these 
by  an  actual  visit  to  and  among  them.  Earlier  enterprises  of 
this  kind  were  inaugurated  by  private  individuals,  and  tolls  col- 
lected for  passing  over  them ; but  they  were  all  subsequently  pur- 
chased by  the  State  and  made  free.  To  each  and  all  of  which 
it  is  proposed  to.  make  excursions  in  due  season ; so  that  when  the 
traveler  has  journeyed  so  far  to  witness  these  glorious  scenes,  noth- 
ing of  importance  may  be  omitted,  that  could  in  any  measure  tend 
to  insure  their  being  visited  understanding^,  and  as  intelligently 
as  possible. 

As  there  are  frequently  moments  of  leisure  that  visitors  desire 
to  utilize,  besides  having  wants  that  need  to  be  supplied,  perhaps 
it  may  be  as  well  here,  as  elsewhere,  to  enumerate  the  various 
interests  represented  in  the  little  settlement  of  Yo  Semite.  Of 
course  the  first  to  be  mentioned  are  the 

THREE  HOTELS  AND  THEIR  LANDLORDS  ; 

Four  when  the  new  one  now  building  is  completed.  These  are 
kept  by  Mr.  J.  K.  Barnard,  Mr.  J.  J.  Cook,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  G. 
F.  Leidig,  each  of  which  is  generally  called  after  the  name  of  its 
proprietor;  as,  “Barnard’s,”  “Cook’s,”  and  “Leidig’s.”  The  lat- 
ter is  the  first  reached,  Cook’s  the  next,  and  Barnard’s  is  the 
farthest  up  the  Valley,  near  to  the  iron  bridge.  The  latter  can 
accommodate  about  one  hundred  guests;  Mr.  Cook,  about  seventy- 
five  ; Mr.  Leidig,  forty ; and  the  new  hotel  is  sufficiently  commo- 
dious to  take  care  *of  one  hundred  and  fifty.  All  of  these  are 
comfortable,  and  the  prices  charged  are  reasonable,  especially 


350 


m THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


considering  their  distance  from  market,  and  the  shortness  of  the 
business  season. 

SINKING’S  FINE  YO  SEMITE  WOOD  CABINET  SHOP. 

When  you  are  within  this  room,  and  your  eye  falls  upon  any 
one  of  the  creations  of  his  genius,  you  can  see  at  a glance  that 
Mr.  Sinning  has  the  rare  gift  of  uniting  the  taste  of  the  artist 
with  the  skill  of  the  workman.  His  choice  specimens  of  various 
woods,  found  in  this  vicinity,  most  admirably  joined,  and  beauti- 
ful^ polished,  are  so  arranged  that  one  colored  wood  is  made 
complimentary  to  that  of  the  other  adjoining  it.  They  are  simply 
perfect,  both  in  arrangement  and  mechanical  execution.  Then, 
it  gives  him  such  real  pleasure  to  show  you,  and  explain  all  about 
his  work,  that  his  eyes,  seen  through  a single  pair  of  glasses, 
actually  double  in  brightness  when  you  admire  it.  Nor  need  you 
be  afraid  of  offending  him  if  you  do  not  purchase,  as  he  readily 
sells  all  that  he  can  make,  notwithstanding  he  is  at  his  bench  on 
every  working  day,  both  winter  and  summer,  making  and  fin- 
ishing the  most  beautiful  of  ladies’  cabinets,  glove-boxes,  etc.,  etc. 

ART  STUDIOS. 

Of  these,  there  are  two,  Mr.  Thomas  Hill’s,  and  that  of  Mr. 
Charles  D.  Robinson;  the  former  is  near  Cook’s  Hotel,  and  the 
latter  adjoins  the  Guardian’s  office.  The  moment  that  either 
studio  is  entered,  the  works  of  each  pleasantly  impress  visitors 
with  their  unquestioned  excellence  and  faithfulness  to  nature. 
And  while  every  true  artist  is  in  thought  and  feeling  more  or  less 
a poet,  and  these  ethereal  essences  are  noticeably  present  in,  and 
breathe  through  every  line  and  color  of  his  touch,  there  is  frequently 
as  wide  a difference  in  their  treatment  of  the  subject,  as  there  is 
between  the  poetry  of  Shakespeare  and  that  of  Tennyson.  And 
it  is  well  that  it  is  so,  for  in  art,  as  in  food,  it  is  the  rich  variety 
that  makes  pleasing  provision  for  all.  The  thought-coloring  of 
Mr.  Hill  may  differ  widely  from  that  of  Mr.  Robinson,  and  it 
does ; but  in  that  very  difference  lies  the  secret  of  the  measurable 
success  of  both.  The  beautiful  creations  of  either  will  worthily 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


351 


occupy  any  picture  gallery,  or  drawing-room  on  earth,  should 
visitors  desire  to  live  these  scenes  over  again  when  within  their 
own  far-off  homes,  by  leaving  with  Mr.  Hill,  or  Mr.  Robinson, 
their  orders  for  pictures. 

PHOTOGRAPHIC. 

Of  course  photographs  have  become  one  of  the  popular  lux- 
uries of  the  age,  and  there  is  scarcely  an  intelligent  visitor  that 
enters  the  Yalley,  who  does  not  wish  to  carry  home,  for  himself 
or  friends,  some  souvenir  of  his  visit;  and  to  renew  pleasant 
memories  of  its  marvelous  scenes.  To  supply  this  want  there  are 
two  galleries  established ; one,  conducted  by  Mr.  Geo.  Fiske — to 
whom  I am  largely  indebted  for  so  many  of  the  beautiful  illustra- 
tions that  appear  in  this  book — who,  as  a man,  a gentleman, 
and  an  artist,  is  in  every  way  worthy  of  the  most  liberal  patron- 
age than  can  be  extended  to  him ; and  the  other  is  kept  by  Mr. 
G.  Fagersteen,  who,  while  being  devoted  to  his  art,  is  among  the 
best  residents  of  Yo  Semite,  and  who,  like  Mr.  Fiske,  takes  groups 
of  visitors  which  embody  the  views  around,  as  a background  to 
the  picture.  There  are  also  two  other  places  where  photographic 
views  of  the  surrounding  scenery  are  sold,  Mr.  J.  J.  Cook’s,  and 
at  the  Big  Tree  Room,  Barnard’s ; the  former  having  Taber’s,  and 
the  latter  Fiske’s. 

THE  STORE 

For  general  merchandise  is  kept  by  Mr.  Angelo  Cavagnaro, 
an  Italian;  and  who,  you  will  find,  has  on  hand  almost  any  article 
that  may  be  desired,  from  a box  of  paper  collars  to  a side  of  bacon ; 
and  probably  many  others  that  neither  you  nor  any  one  else  may 
want. 

MRS.  glynn’s. 

Mrs.  Glynn  is  an  industrious  woman,  who,  finding  it  impos- 
sible to  breathe  the  air  of  a lower  altitude,  has  prolonged  her  useful 
life  by  making  choice  of  Yo  Semite  as  a home;  and,  being  a good 
cook,  ekes  out  a frugal  living  by  selling  bread,  pies,  and  such 
things,  to  transient  customers;  and  by  keeping  two  or  three 
boarders. 


352 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


LIVERY  STABLES,  CARRIAGES,  AND  SADDLE  HORSES. 

These  are  kept  by  Messrs.  Wm.  F.  Coffman  and  Geo.  Kenney, 
two  wide-awake,  square  men,  who  wait  upon  guests  at  the  hotel 
every  evening  to  learn  their  wishes  concerning  the  rides  around 
the  Valley  in  carriages,  or  up  the  mountains  on  horses,  for  the 
next  day.  When  they  present  themselves,  it  will  be  well  for 
visitors  to  have  considered  their  plans  for  the  morrow,  and  give  to 
them  their  order  accordingly ; as,  by  so  doing,  all  delays,  and  many 
annoyances,  are  avoided  in  the  morning.  The  charges  for  saddle- 
horses  and  carriages  are  determined  by  the  Board  of  Commis- 
sioners. Should  any  irregularity  of  any  kind  occur  it  should  be 
promptly  reported  to  the  Guardian.  Additional  to  the  gentlemen 
above  mentioned,  Mr.  Galen  Clark  (one  of  the  oldest  pioneers  of 
this  section,  and  who  for  sixteen  years  was  the  Valley’s  Guardian) 
has  also  the  privilege  of  conveying  passengers  in  his  carriage  to 
every  point  of  interest  around  Yo  Semite.  He  will  be  found 
intelligent,  obliging,  and  efficient  in  evervthing  he  undertakes. 

THE  GUIDES. 

Of  course  when  any  one  wishes  to  witness  the  scenic  grand- 
eur visible  from  the  mountain-tops  which  surround  the  Valley,  he 
is  at  liberty  to  elect  whether  these  trips  shall  be  taken  on  horse- 
back or  afoot.  If  on  foot,  he  avoids  all  care  and  expense  for  either 
himself  or  his  horse;  but  finds  it  very  fatiguing.  If  on  horseback, 
a guide  is  needed,  not  only  to  explain  the  different  objects  of  inter- 
est to  be  found,  but  to  look  out  for  the  safety  and  comfort  of 
those  in  iris  care;  and  to  insure  these,  saddles  have  to  be  carefully 
watched,  and  adjusted,  on  all  mountain  trails.  These  form  im- 
portant parts  of  a guide’s  duty.  The  day’s  expense  for  a guide 
(which  includes  his  horse,  board,  and  wages)  is  S3. 00,  divided 
between  the  different  members  of  the  party.  For  instance,  to  a 
party  of  six — and  none  should  be  larger  than  this  if  a guide  is 
expected  to  do  his  full  duty  by  it— the  pro  rata  for  each  person 
would  be  fifty  cents  for  his  day’s  service. 

To  mention  even  the  names  of  the  many  whose  kindly  at- 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


353 


tentions  and  really  valuable  services  as  guides,  have  been  more  or 
less  before  the  Yo  Semite  visiting  public  for  the  last  twenty -five 
years,  would  make  many  a visitor’s  heart  warm  with  grateful 
emotion , and  to  recall  to  memory  the  faces,  and  with  them  the 
obliging  acts  and  excellent  qualities  of  those  who  were  thus  per- 
sonally useful  to  them,  in  the  “long,  long  ago.”  Many  of  these 
could  be  given,  but  the  restraining  fear  that  a treacherous  memory 
might  cause  some  to  be  omitted,  that  were  equally  worthy  of  a 
place,  is  suggestive  of  possible  yet  unintentional  injustice,  that 
is  sufficiently  strong  to  tempt  me  to  forego  the  record  altogether. 

Still,  there  is  one  of  the  present  guides  whose  peculiar  char- 
acteristics, singular  ways,  and  husky  voice,  make  him  “ the  ob- 
served of  all  observers,”  whose  name  is  Nathan  B.  Phillips,  but 
who  is  better  known  to  all  the  world  as  “ Pike.”  Being  among 
the  oldest  and  longest  in  the  service  of  any  now  acting  in  the 
capacity  of  guide,  permit  me  to  introduce  him : — 

If,  when  you  present  this  letter  of  introduction,  he  should  not 
recognize  the  fact  that  vou  are  addressing  him  bv  his  own  name, 
you  have  only  to  add  the  proud  cognomen  of  “ Pike,”  to  convince 
him  that,  for  the  moment  at  least,  he  was  a little  absent-minded! 
Now  when  Pike  is  himself  (as  once  in  a while  he  gets  “ socially” 
inclined) no  better  guide  ever  took  care  of  a party;  as  he  is  polite, 
studiously  attentive  without  seeming  so,  patient,  thoughtful,  care- 
ful ; and  there  is  not  a peak  or  gorge,  valley  or  canon,  in  the  whole 
range  of  the  High  Sierra,  within  view,  that  is  not  “as  familar  to 
him  as  household  words.”  Besides,  he  can  trail  a bear,  track  a 
deer,  bag  a grouse,  and  work  off*  agonizing  music  from  a violin 
with  the  best.  I do  not  say  that  there  are  not  others  equally 
good,  as  either  hunter,  guide,  or  violinist,  for  that  would  not  be 
true;  and  would,  moreover,  be  begging  the  question.  T never  saw 
him  angry  but  once,  and  that  was  when  a miserable  wretch, 
sometimes  inappropriately  called  a man,  was  abusing  a horse. 
Then,  in  language,  he  “made  the  fur  fly;”  and  I said,  Amen! 
Once  he  was  asked  by  a lady  how  the  huskiness  of  his  voice  was 
brought  about.  “Ah,”  he  good-naturedly  responded,  “telling  so 


354 


IJV  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS, 


MB,  NATHAN  B.  PHILLIPS. 

many  ‘whoppers’  to  tourists,  I expect!”  Pike  is  a Yo  Semite 
character,  and  one  worth  meeting. 

BUTCHER,  AND  BLACKSMITH’S  SHOPS. 

When  meal-times  come  we  should  feel  it  a great  omission  had 
the  former  been  overlooked;  and  when  traveling  on  our  own  horse 
tells  us  he  has  lost  his  shoe,  or  in  our  own  conveyance  we  find 
that  a spring  has  broken,  a bolt  is  gone,  or  a nut  lost,  how  gladly 
we  welcome  the  blacksmith  and  his  shop.  Both  of  these  are 
found  in  Yo  Semite. 


TIIE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 

HARRIS’. 


355 


This  is  near  the  camp-ground  set  apart  by  the  Board  of 
Commissioners  for  the  accommodation  of  those  who  leave  the 
scorching  plains  below  for  the  respite  and  comfort  of  recuperation 
in  such  a charming  spot  as  Yo  Semite,  and  come  in  their  own 
conveyances;  generally  bringing  their  own  tents  and  supplies  with 
them,  and  camp  out.  As  Mr.  A.  Harris  grows  and  keeps  an 
abundant  supply  of  fodder,  besides  stabling  for  animals,  his  place 
is  deservedly  popular  with  camping  parties.  Milk,  eggs,  and 
other  farm  products  are  obtainable  here;  and,  should  the  bread 
burn  at  the  camp-fire,  and  the  yeast  become  sour,  Mrs.  Harris  has 
always  the  remedy  on  hand  to  help  strangers  out  of  their  diffi- 
culty, and  that  most  cheerfully.  Then,  next  to  the  Leidig’s,  the 
Harris’  have  the  largest  family  in  the  Valley;  both  being  a source 
of  pleasurable  pride  to  the  parents.  Speaking  of  children,  it 
must  not  be  forgotten  that  there  is  here 

THE  PUBLIC  SCHOOL. 

It  is  situated  on  the  margin  of  a small  meadow  just  above 
Barnard’s;  with  the  North  Dome,  Royal  Arches,  Washington 
Tower,  and  Half  Dome,  lifting  their  exalted  proportions  heaven- 
ward, just  in  front  of  the  school-house  door.  Then  there  is 

THE  YO  SEMITE  CHAPEL. 

This  neat  little  edifice,  devoted  to  the  worship  of  God  amid 
the  marvelous  creations  of  His  hand,  was  built  by  the  California 
State  Sunday  School  Association,  in  the  summer  of  1879;  partly 
by  subscriptions  from  the  children,  but  mainly  from  the  voluntary 
contributions  of  prominent  members  of  the  Association.  Mr. 
Charles  Geddes,  a leading  architect  of  San  Francisco,  made  and 
presented  the  plans;  and  Mr.  E.  Thomson,  also  of  San  Francisco, 
erected  the  building,  at  a cost  of  between  three  and  four  thousand 
dollars.  It  will  seat  an  audience  of  about  two  hundred  and  fifty. 
Mr.  H.  D.  Bacon,  of  Oakland,  gave  the  bell;  and  when  its  first 
notes  rung  out  upon  the  moon-silvered  air,  on  the  evening  of  dedi- 


356 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  TIIE  SIERRAS. 


Photo,  by  Geo.  Fiske. 


Engraved  by  J.  M.  Hay,  S.  F 


THE  YO  SEMITE  CHAPEL, 


IH  WMa j 

3WM1 

III 

i' nfiS 

gjgj]  Sf 

deia  i 

' i HPiFi 

Js  ii,  l 

cation,  it  was  the  first  sound  of  “ the  church-going  bell”  ever 
heard  in  Yo  Semite.  Let  us  hope  that  it  will  assist  to 


“King  out  the  false,  ring  in  the  true, 

Ring  in  the  valiant  man  and  free, 

The  larger  heart,  the  kindlier  hand; 

Ring  out  the  darkness  of  the  land, 

Ring  in  the  Christ  that  is  to  be.  ”* 

Miss  Mary  Porter,  of  Philadelphia,  donated  the  organ,  in 
memorium  of  Miss  Florence  Hutchings,  the  first  white  child  born 


* Tennyson’s  Ring  Out,  Wild  Bells. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


357 

in  Yo  Semite,  who  passed  through  the  Beautiful  Gate,  September 
20,  1881  (as  recorded  on  pages  145, 146),  to  whom  she  had  become 
devotedly  attached  while  visiting  the  Yalley  the  preceding  year. 

The  Yo  Semite  Chapel  is  for  the  free  use  of  Christians  of 
every  denomination. 

THE  GUARDIAN 

Is  a State  officer,  appointed  by  the  Board  of  Commissioners,  for 
the  purpose  of  watching  over  the  best  interest  of  the  Yalley,  and 
superintending  the  local  details  connected  with  its  management, 
under  the  Board.  To  him,  therefore,  all  irregularities  of  every 
kind  should  be  promptly  reported,  to  insure  their  abatement. 
From  him,  moreover,  can  be  obtained  information,  not  only  con- 
cerning the  rules  and  regulations  adopted  by  the  Board  of  Com- 
missioners, for  the  management  of  the  Yalley  in  the  interests  of 
the  public ; but  the  best  places  to  camp,  the  points  most  noteworthy 
to  see,  and  the  best  time  and  manner  of  seeing  them ; with  answers 
to  every  reasonable  question  intelligent  persons  may  ask  concern- 
ing this  wonderful  spot.  In  short  he  will,  to  the  best  of  his  ability, 
be  the  living  embodiment  of  a cyclopedia  of  Yo  Semite;  and  that 
politely,  cheerily,  and  pleasantly.  The  present  Guardian  of  the 
Yalley  is  Mr.  Walter  E.  Dennison,  to  whom  all  communications 
concerning  it  should  be  addressed.  His  office  is  on  the  south  bank 
of  the  Merced  River,  near  the  upper  iron  bridge. 

WELLS,  FARGO  & CO  ’s  EXPRESS,  AND  THE  POST-OFFICE. 

Both  of  these  invaluable  institutions,  of  especial  interest  to 
the  traveling  public,  as  well  as  residents,  have  been  established  at 
Yo  Semite.  The  farmer  opens  and  closes  with  the  business  sea- 
son, but  the  latter  maintains  connections  with  the  outside  world 
all  the  year — in  summer,  daily,  and  in  winter,  by  a semi- weekly 
mail.  Notwithstanding  the  unquestioned  efficiency  of  Wells, 
Fargo  & Co.’s  Express  for  the  conveyance  of  valuable  packages, 
Yo  Semite  should  be  made  a “ Money-order  Office  ” of  the  postal 
service,  as  the  wants  of  tourist  visitors,  as  well  as  residents,  would 
be  much  subserved  thereby. 


358 


m THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


Before  the  establishment  of  a postal  route  to,  and  post-office 
at  Yo  Semite,  all  letters  and  papers  were  carried  thither  by  private 
hands;  but  the  late  U.  S.  Senator  Howe,  of  Wisconsin,  afterwards 
Postmaster-General  of  the  United  States,  secured  this  great  boon 
for  the  Yalley.  Through  him  the  writer  became  its  first  post- 
master, at  the  enormously  extravagant  salary  of  $12.00  per 
annum,  besides  perquisites  of  uncalled-for  old  papers  and  quack 
advertisements ! But  as  there  was  then  no  winter  service,  and  he 
sometimes  paid  his  Indian  mail  carrier  ten  dollars  for  a single 
winter  trip,  besides  board  and  old  clothes  for  trudging  through 
and  over  snow,  in  the  dead  of  winter,  without  snow-shoes,  to  bring 
in  the  precious  missives;  strange  as  it  may  seem,  it  was  not  deemed 
a sufficient  sinecure  to  incite  and  tempt  the  envious  longings  of 
needy  politicians  for  its  possession ! 

TELEGRAPHIC  CONNECTIONS.  • 

For  man}7  years  the  Yalley  was  in  telegraphic  communica- 
tion with  the  outside  world,  via  Sonora  and  Groveland;  but  as  it 
was  not  sufficiently  patronized  after  1874  to  pay  for  repairing  the 
line  and  running  the  office,  in  a few  years  thereafter  it  went  un- 
repaired, and  was  consequently  unused.  In  1882,  however,  a new 
one  was  constructed,  by  the  Western  Union  Company,  which 
is  still  maintained,  via  Berenda,  Grant’s  Sulphur  Springs,  and 
Wawona  to  Yo  Semite;  so  that  now  telegrams  can  be  sent  thence 
to  every  nook  and  corner  of  civilization. 

THE  FOREST  TREES  OF  YO  SEMITE. 

There  are  four  different  species  of  pine  growing  here:  Two 
‘‘Yellow  Pines,”  Pinus  ponderosa,  and  P.  Jeffreyi , with  three 
needles  to  each  leaf;  “ Sugar  Pine,”  P.  Lambertiana,  having  five 
needles  to  a leaf;  and  the  “Tamarack  Pine,”  P.  contorta,  with 
only  two  to  a leaf : “ Red,  or  Incense  Cedar,”  Libocedrus  decurrens: 
Three  “ Silver  Firs,”  Abies  concolor,  A.  gra/ndis,  and  A.  nobilis. 

There  is  but  one  more  of  this  genus  found  in  the  State,  and 
that  one  only  in  a single  locality  (the  Santa  Lucia  Mountains, 
Monterey  County),  but,  owing  to  its  beauty,  and  rarity,  I am 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY.  359 


the  silver  fir,  Abies  Bracteata , Santa  Lucia  Mountains. 

tempted  to  introduce  engravings  of  it  here.  All  the  cones  of  the 
silver  fir  grow  upwards, — not  downwards,  like  the  pines. 

Of  the  coniferse,  the  next  in  importance,  perhaps,  is  the  “Red” 
or  “Douglas”  Spruce,  Psado  tsuga  Douglasii.  Then,  in  resem- 
blance of  foliage,  its  single  leaves  sharp  as  a needle,  and  fruit  like 
a nutmeg,  whence  comes  the  name  “California  Nutmeg,”  Torreya 
Calif ornica.  Then  follows  the  “Black  Oak,”  Quercus  Kelloggii, 
upon  the  acorns  of  which  the  Indians  mainly  depend  for  their 
staple  bread-stuff;*  and  a few  of  the  “ Quaking  Aspen,”  Pop-ulus 


See  Chapter  on  Indian  manners  and  customs. 


Drawn  from  nature  by  A.  Kellogg,  M.  D. 

CONE  OF  THE  silvee  fir,  Abies  Bracteata,  Santa  Lucia  Mountains. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


361 


tremuloides  which  came  down  from  the  mountains  in  the  flood  of 
1867.  The  “ Balm  of  Gilead  ” Poplar,  Populus  balsamifera : 
"‘Alder,”  Alnus  viridis:  “Bock,”  or  “ Oregon,  Maple,”'  Acer 
macrophyllum:  “ California  Laurel,”  Umbellularia  Californica: 
“Dogwood,”  Cornus  Nuttallii,  with  its  large  white  blossoms. 
T1  len  follows  the  most  beautiful  of  all  the  “ Live  Oaks,”  the 
golden-cupped  Quercus  chrysolepis. 

THE  SHRUBBERY  OF  YO  SEMITE. 

The  most  attractive  of  all,  on  account  of  the  bright  green  of 
its  leaves’,  its  dwarf,  bell-shaped,  and  waxy  bunches  of  pinkish- 
white  blossoms,  and  the  red  olive-green  of  its  smooth  stems,  the 
bark  of  which  peels  oft*  annually,  is  the  “ Manzanita,”  Arctosta- 
pkylos  pungens.  Next  comes  the  “ California  Lilac,”  Ceanothus 
integerrimus , whose  large  feathery  plumes  of  white  flowers,  redo- 
lent with  perfume,  that  become  so  inviting  to  both  the  eye  and 
nostril;  with  its  bright  sap-green  bark:  The  “Azalea,”  Azalea 
Occidentalism  the  fragrant  masses  of  whose  pinkish-white  or  yel- 
lowish-white blossoms  can  be  “scented  from  afar:”  The  “Spice 
Plant,”  Calycanthus  Occidentcdis,  that  grows  in  such  rich  abun- 
dance on  the  way  to  Cascade  Falls,  and  whose  large  deep-green 
and  pointed  ovate  leaves  shine  in  striking  contrast  to  its  wine- 
colored  flowers.  Nor  must  we  overlook  the  “ Chokecherry,”  Pro- 
nics  demissa,  with  its  gracefully  depending  blossoms,  and  fruit  so 
valuable  an  edible  to  the  natives;  or  the  “ Wild  Coffee,”  Rhamnus 
Californica,  whose  root-wood  makes  such  beautiful  veneers. 
These,  with  some  few  others,  are  the  principal  representatives  of 
the  interesting  shrubbery  of  the  Valley. 

THE  FLOWERS  OF  YO  SEMITE. 

These  are  so  numerous  and  so  varied  that  but  a few  only  can 
here  be  mentioned.  Perhaps  the  first  claiming  attention,  not  only 
for  its  graceful  tulip-like  cup,  and  richly  colored  butterfly  wing- 
formed  petals,  but  from  its  being  the  flower  after  which  this 
county  was  named,  “ Mariposa,”  or  “ Butterfly  Tulip,”  Calochor- 
tus  venustus:  The  “ Penstemon,”  Penstemon  Icetus,  with  its 
24 


362 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


bright  purplish-blue  flowers:  “ Pussy’s  Paws,”  Spraguea  urnbel- 
lata,  whose  attractive,  radiating  bunches  clothe  even  sandy  places 
with  beauty;  Hosaclcia  crassifolia,  with  its  singular  clover-like 
blossoms  and  vetch-like  leaves,  the  young  shoots  of  which  form 
such  tender  and  delicious  greens  for  the  Indians;  the  “ Evening 
Primrose,”  (Enothera  biennis,  that  brightens  the  meadows  at 
eventide  with  its  golden  eyes  of  glory,  but  which  closes  when  the 
sun  looks  too  .steadfastly  into  them  at  midday;  or  its  dark- 
purplish  rose-colored  twin  sister,  the  Godetia,  that  forsakes  the 
moist  meadow  land  to  grow  on  sandy  slopes.  But  there  is  such 
a fascinating  charm  in  these  delicate  creations  that  one  may  be 
easily  tempted  to  linger  too  long  in  their  delightful  company. 

THE  FERNS  OF  YO  SEMITE  AND  ITS  SURROUNDING  MOUNTAINS. 

Mr.  J.  G.  Lemmon,  of  Oakland,  and  his  talented  wife,  who 
have  made  this  interesting  family  a loving  and  special  study,  have 
kindly  sent  me  the  following  carefully  prepared  list  of  those 
found  here: — 

Common  Polypody,  Polypodium  vulgctre;  California  Poly- 
pody, P.  Calif ornicum;  California  Lip  Fern,  Cheilanthes  Cali- 
fornica;  Graceful  Lip  Fern,  C.  gracillima;  Many-leaved  Lip  Fern, 
C.  myriophylla;  (Prof.)  Brewer’s  Cliff-brake,  Pellcea  Breweri; 
Heather-leaved  Cliff-brake,  Pellcea  andromedcefolia;  Wright’s- 
Cliff-brake,  Pellcea  Wrightiana;  Short-winged  Cliff-brake,  Pellcea 
brachyptera;  Bird-foot  Cliff- brake,  Pellcea  ornithopus;  Dwarf 
Cliff-brake,  Pellcea  densa ; Bridges’  Cliff-brake,  Pellcea  Bridgesii; 
Bock-brake,  Cryptogramme  acrostichoides;  Common  bracken, 
Pteris  aquilina,  var.  lanuginosa;  Venus’  hair,  Adiantum 
Capillus-vcneris,  California  Maiden  hair,  Adiantum  emar- 
ginatum;  Foot-stalked  Maiden  hair,  Adiantum  pedatum;  Greek 
Chain  fern,  Woodwardia  radicans;  Lady  fern,  Asplenium  Filix- 
fcemina,  Alpine  Beech  fern,  Phegopteris  alpestris;  Bough  Shield 
fern,  Aspidium  rigidum,  var.  argutum;  Armed  Shield  fern, 
Aspidium  munitum;  Naked  Shield  fern,  Aspidium  munitum , 
var.  nudatum,  Over-lapped  Shield  fern,  Aspidium  munitum, 
var.  imbricans;  Sharp-leaved  Shield  fern,  Aspidium  aculeatum; 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


363 


Sierra  Shield  fern,  Aspiclium  aculeatum,  var.  scopulorum ; Del- 
icate Cup  fern,  Cystopteris  fragilis;  Hairy  Woodsia,  Woodsia 
scopulina ; Oregon  Woodsia,  Woodsia  Oregana. 

FERN  ALLIES. 

Simple  Grape  fern,  Botrychium  simplex;  Southern  three- 
parted  Grape  fern,  Botrychiumternatum,  var.  australe ; Virginia 
Grape  fern,  Botrychium  Virginianum;  Common  Adder  tongue, 
Ophioglossum  vulgatum. 

To  those  who  are  interested  in  this  attractive  family,  the  above 
complete  synopsis,  which  embraces  every  species  and  variety  yet 
found  within  and  around  the  V alley,  will  be  especially  acceptable 

TROUT-FISHING. 

‘ Are  there  trout  in  that  pellucid  and  beautiful  stream  flow- 
ing past  us?  ” inquired  a somewhat  fancifully  dressed  young  gen- 
tleman with  a distingue  air,  equipped  with  the  latest  patented 
fishing-rod,  and  a large  book  well  filled  with  flies  of  the  most 
approved  color  and  pattern. 

“Yes,  sir,  speckled  mountain  trout.  There  are  but  two  kinds 
of  fish  found  in  this  river,  or  in  any  of  its  tributaries,  speckled 
trout  and  sucker ; the  former  swim  near  the  surface,  ready  to  catch 
the  first  fly  that  comes  along,  and  the  latter  float  near  the  bottom 
of  the  stream,  upon  the  lookout  for  worms,  or  offal  of  any  kind  that 
may  be  drifting  down.  Trout,  as  you  find,  are  a delicious  table 
fish;  but  no  one,  except  Indians,  will  think  of  eating  sucker.” 

“ Is  there  any  good  place  near  here  for  a little  sport  of  that- 
kind  ? as  I think  I should  like  to  try  my  hand  at  that  sort  of  thing,, 
you  know.” 

“Oh!  yes,  almost  anywhere;  they  are  just  where  you  can 
see  and  find  them ; but,  if  they  should  see  you  first  you  had  better 
move  on  to  the  next  pool  or  riffle,  as  you  would  be  wasting  your 
time  there.” 

“Oh!  I thank  you  very  much,  as  trout-fishing  is  such  de- 
lightful sport,  you  know.” 

Apparently  full  of  ruminating  anticipation,  our  hero  of  the 


364 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


rod  and  line  sauntered  leisurely  along,  occasionally  testing  the 
flexibility  of  his  pole  by  whipping  it  after  some  imaginary  trout, 
until  he  disappeared  behind  a clump  of  young  cottonwoods,  to  be 
seen  no  more  until  dinner-timee  But  “ when  the  evening  shades 
prevail  ”-ed,  the  would-be  disciple  of  Isaac  Walton  could  be  seen 
advancing  slowly,  and  somewhat  disconsolately,  towards  the  hotel, 
with  one  small,  deluded  trout  dangling  at  the  end  of  a twig. 
Simultaneously,  as  if  with  mischievous  “malice  aforethought,” 
an  Indian  walked  briskly  up  with  about  as  large  a string  of  trout 
as  he  could  conveniently  carry.  Now  this  was  the  additional 
feather  that  broke  the  camel’s  back,  and  our  crest-fallen  friend 
looked  bewildered  and  dumbfounded.  Placing  his  solitary  eye- 
glass firmly  in  front  of  his  left  eye,  he  fixed  the  discomfited  gaze 
of  that  one  eye  (glass)  alternately  upon  the  Indian,  and  then  upon 
the  successful  “catch  ’’that  was  hanging  at  the  Indian’s  side;  and 
as  soon  as  he  could  discover  that  he  could  find  a voice,  he  falter- 
ingly  inquired,  “ What  do  you  use  for  bait?  ” An  artist  friend 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


365 


being  present,  made  the  accompanying  graphic  sketch  of  this 
soul-harrowing  scene. 

The  general  absence  here  of  what  is  termed  “ good  luck  ” 
among  anglers,  has  fabricated  the  trite  aphorism  among  visitors 
that,  “ It  takes  an  Indian  to  catch  trout  at  Yo  Semite.”  And  this 
is  in  a great  measure  true;  yet,  it  must  not  be  supposed  that  his 
uniform  success  in  the  art  is  altogether  attributable  to  his  superior 
skill.  By  no  means.  It  is  to  be  accredited  more  to  his  knowl- 
edge of  the  haunts  and  habits  of  trout,  which  that  wonderful 
mother,  Necessity,  has  persistently  taught  him  from  childhood;  and 
by  which  he  learns  where  to  find  them  at  the  different  seasons  of 
the  year,  and  in  the  varying  stages  of  water.  This  is  an  advan- 
tage that  is  unshared  by  the  stranger.  Then,  the  old  proverb,  that 
“ practice  makes  perfect,”  has  not  a little  to  do  with  an  Indian’s 
invariable  success,  especially  as  his  bread  and  dinner  depend 
upon  it.  Admitting,  however,  that  skill  and  practice  go  hand 
in  hand  with  an  Indian,  to  bring  fish  to  his  string,  I have  seen 
white  adepts  in  the  art  that  could  largely  discount  an  Indian’s 
best  efforts. 

The  most  matter-of-fact  manner  of  catching  trout  among 
unskilled  and  unpracticed  anglers,  is,  to  cover  up  the  hook  com- 
pletely with  a good-sized  worm,  and  then  cause  it  to  float  gently 
down  to  where  he  can  see  some  suckers  apparently  resting  on  the 
bottom  of  the  stream;  and,  when  he  sees  the  tempting  morsel 
fairly  in  the  mouth  of  his  intended  victim,  to  suddenly  jerk  in 
the  line.  Thus  captured  the  sucker  is  laid  carefully  away  until 
night-fall,  when  he  is  cut  up  into  pieces  about  a quarter  of  an 
inch  in  thickness  and  half  an  inch  square;  and  which,  when  placed 
snugly  on  the  hook,  become  an  inviting  bait  to  trout,  which 
it  readily  seizes,  and  is  himself  seized  in  turn,  to  supply  breakfast 
for  the  angler  and  his  guests.  Good  fishing  places,  free  from  roots 
and  sticks,  and  well  stocked  with  trout,  should  be  sought  quietly 
out  in  the  day-time. 

In  early  days  the  Indians  fished  only  with  the  spear  (in 
which  some  were  adepts),  and  with  the  worm ; but  in  these  latter 


366 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


days  they  avail  themselves  of  the  lessons  taught  them  by  the 
whites,  of  using  sucker  as  bait,  and  fishing  at  night;  by  which 
they  are  enabled  to  bring  such  large  strings  of  trout  to  the  hotels, 
for  which  they  invariably  receive  twenty-five  cents  per  pound. 

As  it  is  reasonably  presumable  that  every  one  before  starting 
out  upon  any  of  the  many  interesting  trips  within  and  around 
the  Valley,  will  be  desirous  of  ascertaining  not  only  their  partic- 
ular direction  and  location,  but  the  distances  thereto,  the  follow- 
ing tables,  and  accompanying  map,  are  herewith  submitted. 

BASIS  OF  MEASUREMENTS. 

Before  setting  out  upon  any  of  our  excursions  around  or  be- 
yond the  Valley,  it  seems  desirable  to  state  that,  according  to 
Lieutenant  Wheeler’s  U.  S Survey,  from  which  much  of  the  data 
concerning  altitudes  here  is  taken,  its  elevation  above  sea  level 
as  computed  from  the  floor  of  the  upper  iron  bridge,  near  Bar- 
nards, is  three  thousand  nine  hundred  and  thirty -four  feet ; and 
that  all  the  measurements  of  the  cliffs  and  water-falls  about  the 
Valley  are  calculated  from  this  basis,  except  where  otherwise  stated. 

For  the  purpose  of  enabling  visitors  to  make  their  respective 
jaunts  understandingly,  I have  thought  it  desirable  to  present  the 
various  points  of  interest  somewhat  in  detail,  and  in  the  order 
they  are  generally  preferred  to  be  seen ; but  which  order  can,  of 
course,  be  changed  according  to  circumstances,  or  to  individual 
taste  and  preference.  With  the  reader’s  permission,  therefore,  we 
will  suppose  that  we  are  now  prepared  to  set  out  upon  our  glorious 
pilgrimage  among  the  marvelous  scenes  which  surround  us,  and 
are  standing  upon  the  floor  of  the  upper  iron  bridge,  three 
thousand  nine  hundred  and  thirty-four  feet  above  sea  level,  and 
looking  into  the  transparent  waters  of 

THE  MERCED  RIVER. 

This  musical  and  suggestive  name  was  given  to  it  by  the 
old  Spanish  padres,  by  whom  it  was  called  Rio  de  la  Merced , the 
River  of  Mercy.  And,  by  the  way,  we  are  much  indebted  to  the 
poetical  taste  of  those  old  missionaries  for  a number  of  apposite 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES, 

Fro?n  the  Guardian' s Office , near  the  Upper  Iron  Bridge,  to  Different  Points  of 
Interest  in  and  Around  Yo  Semite  Valley,  California. 


POINTS  OF  INTEREST. 


o° 


To  Mirror  Lake  ( by  carriage  road.') 


From  Guardian  s Office  to — 

Indian  Canon  Bridge 

Harris’  Residence 

Forks  of  Tis-sa-ack  Avenue  Road 
Mirror  Lake 


0.65 

0.56 

0-95’ 

o-75 


0.65  2.26 
1. 21  1.70 
2.16  0.75 
2-9i  


3.934 


If  the  return  is  made  via  Tis-sa-ack  Avenue , the 
distances  from  Mirror  Lake  are — 

Upper  Forks  of  Tis-sa-ack  Avenue  Road 

Ten-ie-ya  Creek  Bridge 

Tis-sa-ack  Bridge 

Guardian’s  Office 


0.61 

0.17 

0.89 

2.03 


0.61 

0.78 

1.67 

3-70 


3-7° 

3-09 

2.92 

2.03 


Tis-sa-ack  Avemie  Drive. 
From  Guardian  s Office  to — 

Tis-sa-ack  Bridge 

Ten-ie-ya  Bridge.. 

Harris’  Residence . . 

Guardian’s  Office 


2.03 
0.89 
1. 05 
1 . 21 


2.92 

3-97 

5-i8 


3-i5 
2 . 26 
1 .21 


3.934 


To  Bridal  Veil  Fall , Artist  Point , and  New 
Inspiration  Point  {by  carriage  road) — 

From  Guardian' s Office  to — 

Cathedral  Spires  Bridge 

El  Capitan  (lower  iron)  Bridge-. ...  

Bridal  Veil  Fall 

F orks  of  Pohono  Avenue  Road 

Artist  Point 

Cabin 

New  Inspiration  Point., 


2.50 
1 ■ I3 
0.41 
o . 28 
1.48 
o-43 
6.96 


2 50 

3- 63 

4.04 

4- 32 
5.80 
6.23 
7.19 


7.19 

4.69 

356 

3-i5 

2.87 

i-39 

0.96 


3.925 


800 

1,000 

1,500 


4.651 

4,851 

5,37i 


To  the  Cascade  Falls  (by  carriage  road). 
From  Guardian  s Office  to — 

Forks  of  Big  Oak  Flat  Road 

Black  Springs 

River  View . 

Pohono  Bridge 

Cascade  Falls 


7.67 

3.66 

3.66 

4.01 

0.69 

4-35 

3-32 

0.19 

4-54 

3-i3 

1.29 

4-83 

2.84 

2.84 

7.67 

The  Pohono  Avenue  Drive. 

From  Guardian's  Office  to — 

Yo  Semite  Creek  Bridge 

Rocky  Point 

Indian  Camp 

Ribbon  Fall 

Forks  of  Big  Oak  Flat  Road 

Black  Springs 

River  View 

Pohono  Bridge 

Fern  Spring 

Moss  Spring 

Forks  of  Big  Tree  Station  Road 

Bridal  Veil  Fall 


0.49 
0.96 
o-37 
2 17 
o 07 
0.69 
0.25 
0.29 
0.19 
o 06 
O 59 
0.28 


0.49 

i-45 

1.82 

3- 99 
4.06 

4- 75 
5.00 

5- 29 

5-48 
5 54 
6.13 
6.41 


3,949 

| 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES -Continued 


POINTS  OF  INTEREST. 

Between  Con- 
secutive Points. 

From  Guardi- 
an’s Office  . . 

To  Guardian’s 
Office . 

Altitude  in  feet 
ab’ve  Yo  Sem- 
ite Valley.  .. 

Altitude  in  feet 
above  Sea 
Level 

j El  Capitan  Bridge 

O.4I 

6.82 

3-36 

3,925 

Cathedral  Spires  Bridge ... 

7-95 

2.50 

I . A 2 

9 . 38 

Cook’s  Hotel 

O 30 

9.68 

0.77 

3,934 

O.73 

10.41 

3,934 

O.O4 

10 . 43 

3-934 

The  Round  Drive  on  the  Floor  of  the  Valley. 

From  Guardian’s  Office,  via  Merced,  Ten-ie-ya, 

15.06 

21  32 

0 

CTi 

6 

From  Guardian’s  Office  t© — 

0 . 4Q 

O . 4Q 

0.41 

Foot  of  Fall 

0.41 

O . 90 

1 

To  Top  of  Vo  Semite  Fall  and  Eagle  Peak , by 

T rail. 

6 59 

From  Guardians  Office  to — 

Columbia  Rock  

1.98 

1.98 

4.61 

1,154 

5,088 

Foot  of  Upper  Yo  Semite  Fall 

0.69 

2 . 67 

3 92 

1 114 

5,048 

Forks  of  Trail  for  Top  of  Yo  Semite  Fall 

I . 2 I 

3.88 

2 . 74 

Top  of  Yo  Semite  Fall 

0.45 

4-33 

2 . 26 

2,55° 

6,484 

Eagle  Meadow 

1 36 

e . 60 

o.  90 

Eagle  Peak  

0.90 

6-59 

3,818 

7,752 

To  Snow’s  Hotel. , by  Trail. 

4-63 

(Between  the  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls.) 

From  Guardian’s  Office  to — 

Opposite  Merced  Bridge  

2 . 02 

2 02 

2 . 61 

Too-lool-a-we-ack  (South  Branch)  Bridge 

2 62 

Register  Rock 

0.62 

3 24 

i-39 



Snow’s  Hotel  

T *30 

4-63 

1,366 

5,3oo  . 

If  the  return  is  made  via  Glacier  Point,  the  dis- 

tance from  Snow’s  will  be: 

12.31; 

Bridge,  above  the  Nevada  Fall 

0 82 

0 . 82 

jj 

11  ^ 

Glacier  Point  

7 08 

7.90 

do 

4-45 

3,257 

7U9i 

Guardian’s  Office 

4-45 

12  • 35 

3,934 

To  Glacier  Point  and  Sentinel  Dome , by  Trail . 

From  Guardian’s  Office  to — 

j - 0/ 

Cook’s  Hotel  . 

O 77 

4 . 80 

3,934 

Foot  of  Glacier  Point  Trail 

O 27 

0 77 

1 . 04 

Union  Point 

2.09 

313 

t-  Do 

2 44 

2,356 

6,290 

Glacier  Point 

1 32 

4-45 

1 . 12 

3,257 

7U9i 

Sentinel  Dome  

I . 12 

If  the  return  is  made  via  Snow’s  Hotel  the  dis- 

5  57 

tances  from  Glacier  Point  are ! 

12 . ^ 0 

Bridge,  above  the  Nevada  Fall 

7 . 08 

7 . 08 

A ^ • DO 

Snow’s  Hotel  . . . 

0 82 

7.90 

J ^D 

4-63 

1,366 

5,300 

Guardian’s  Office 

4 63 

12-53 

3-934 

From  Glacier  Point  Trail. 


■ 


* 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES  — Continued. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST. 

Between  Con- 
secutive Points. 

From  Guardi- 
an’s Office .... 

To  Guardian’s 
Office ....  . 

Altitude  in  feet 
ab’ve  Yo  Sem- 
ite Valley 

Altitude  in  feet 
above  sea 
level 

10.00 

From  Guardian’s  Office  to  — 

Snow’s  Hotel 

4-63 

4-63 

5-37 

1,366 

5,3oo 

0.82 

5 • 45 

4 • 55 

2.58 

8.03 

1 97 

Anderson’s  Cabin 

0 60 

8.63 

i-37 

3,5i4 

7,448 

Foot  of  Lower  Dome 

1 .00 

9 63 

o-37 

3,964 

7,898 

Top  of  Lower  Dome  

0. 19 

9.82 

0.18 

4,53° 

8,404 

Top  of  South  Dome 

0.18 

10.00 

4>953 

8,887 

To  Summit  of  Cloud's  Rest , by  trail. 

11. 81 

From  Guardian’s  Office  to — 

Snow’s  Hotel 

4-63 

4-63 

7.18 

1,366 

5,300 

Forks  of  South  Dome  Trail 

3-40 

8.03 

3 78 

Hopkin's  Meadow 

1 .26 

9.29 

2 . 52 

4,339 

8,273 

Summit  of  Cloud’s  Rest 

2.52 

1 1 . 81 

5,92i 

9,885 

To  Soda  Springs  and  Summit  of  Mt.  Dana  by 

trail. 

40-34 

From  Guardian’s  Office  to  — 

Snow’s  Hotel  

4-63 

4-63 

35-7i 

1,366 

5,3co 

Forks  of  Cloud’s  Rest  Trail 

4 • 44 

Q . 07 

31 . 27 

Top  of  Sunrise  Ridge . 

3-23 

y / 

12.30 

28.04 

5,648 

9,582 

Cathedral  Meadow  Ridge 

5 ■ 20 

U-5° 

22.84 

Forks  ofhLake  Ten-ie-ya  Trail.  Tuolumne  Mead- 

ows  r 

4 14 

21.64 

18.70 

4,724 

8,658 

Soda  Springs 

0.90 

22.54 

1 7 . 80 

4,737 

8,671 

Junction  of  Mt.  Dana  and  Mt.  Lyell  Creeks.  . . 

0.70 

23  24 

17.10 

Camping  ground  for  Mt.  Dana  

8.90 

32.14 

8.20 

5,849 

9,783 

Saddle,  between  Mt.  Gibbs  and  Mt.  Dana 

5 ■ 20 

37-34 

3.00 

7,759 

11,693 

Summit  of  Mt.  Dana 

3 00 

40  • 34 

9,376 

I ^IO 

To  Summit  of  Mt.  Lyell , by  trail. 

38.20 

x J 

From  Guardian’s  Office  to — 

Soda  Springs 

22.54 

22.54 

15.66 

4,624 

8,558 

Forks  of  Mt.  Dana  Trail 

0.60 

23  *4 

15.06 

Head  of  Tuolumne  Meadows 

9.41 

32  55 

5 ■ f>5 

5,098 

9,032 

Summit  of  Mt.  Lyell  

5-65 

38.20 

9,34o 

T3>274 

To  Soda  Springs,  via  the  Eagle  Peak  and  Lake 

Ten-ie-ya  T rail^  by  trail . 

24.50 

From  Guardian’s  Office  to — 



Forks  of  Eagle  Peak  Trail 

4.64 

4.64 

19.86 

3,219 

7A53 

Forks  of  Mono  Trail  . . . 

I . 36 

6 . 00 

18.50 

Lake  Ten-ie-ya 

10.00 

16.00 

8 . 50 

4,120 

8,054 

Soda  Springs 

8.50 

24.50 

8.671 

To  the  Summit  of  the  Obelisk , or  Mt.  Clark,  by 

trail. 

15 . 82 

| From  Guardian’s  Office  to  — 

Glacier  Point 

4-45 

4-45 

11  • 37 

3 257 

7>I9T 

Too-loo-la-we-ack  Creek 

2 12 

6 . 57 

9 .25 

Camping  Ground  

7 00 

*3  57 

2 . 25 

6,179 

10,113 

Summit  of  Obelisk 

2 25 

15.82 

7, 444 

11,378 

370 


IN’  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


names  that  embellish  the  California  map;  such,  for  instance,  as 
the  Rio  cle  Sacramento,  the  River  of  the  Sacrament;  Rio  de  las 
Plumas,  the  River  of  Feathers;  Cuidad  Los  Angeles,  the  City 
of  the  Angels,  and  many  others.  The  view,  easterly,  reveals  the 
“Half  Dome,”  framed  by  a vista  of  overarching  pines,  cedars, 
oaks,  and  balm  of  gileads,  that  stand  on  the  margin  of  the  river ; 
westerly  the  lofty,  sky-piercing  crest  of  “Eagle  Peak”  is  seen 
through  a similar  portal,  about  both  of  which  more  will  be  said 
hereafter. 

COMPREHENSIVE  PANORAMA  FROM  MEADOW  AVENUE. 

When  about  midway  of  the  avenue,  which  here  crosses  the 
meadow,  directly  in  front  of  us,  looking  northerly,  “Yo  Semite 
Point”  stands  boldly  out,  the  apex  of  which  is  three  thousand 
two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  above  us,  and  the  view  from  which, 
looking  down  into  the  Valley,  is  very  impressive.  This,  when 
associated  with  the  Giant’s  Thumb,  is  called  by  the  Indians, 
“Hum-moo,”  or  the  Lost  Arrow,  and  connected  with  which  is 
the  following  characteristic 

LEGEND  OF  THE  LOST  ARROW. 

Tee-hee-neh  was  among  the  fairest  and  most  beautiful  of  the 
daughters  of  Ah-wah-ne.  Her  tall  yet  symmetrically  rounded  form 
was  as  erect  as  the  silver  firs,  and  as  supple  a s the  tamarack  pines. 
The  delicately  tapering  fingers  of  her  small  hand  were,  if  possible, 
prettier  than  those  of  other  Indian  maidens ; and  the  arched  instep 
of  her  slender  foot  was  as  flexile  as  the  azalea  when  shaken  by 
the  wind.  The  tresses  of  her  raven  hair,  unlike  that  of  her  com- 
panions, was  as  silky  as  the  milkweed’s  floss,  and  depended  from 
her  well-poised  head  to  her  ankles.  Her  movements  were  as 
graceful  and  agile  as  the  bound  of  a fawn.  When  she  stepped 
forth  from  her  wigwam  in  the  early  morning,  accompanied  by 
other  damsels  of  her  tribe,  to  seek  the  mirrored  river  and  make  her 
unpretentious  toilet,  there  can  be  but  little  wonder  that  the  admir- 
ing gaze  of  captivated  young  chiefs,  and  the  envious  looks  of  less 
favored  lassies,  should  follow  her  every  footstep. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


371 


Then,  knowing  this,  who  could  wonder  at,  or  blame,  the  noble 
Kos-soo-kah, — the  tallest,  strongest,  swiftest-footed,  bravest  and 
most  handsome  in  form  and  face,  of  all  the  young  Ah-wah-ne 
chiefs, — for  allowing  the  silken  meshes  of  devoted  love  to  intertwine 
around  his  heart,  and  bring  him  a willing  captive  to  her  feet? 
Or  marvel  that  the  early  spring  flowers  which  she  plucked  for 
him  were  always  the  most  redolent  with  perfume?  Or  that  the 
wild  strawberries  which  she  picked,  and  the  wild  plums  that  she 
gathered,  were  ever  the  sweetest,  because  transfused  by  love? 
Then,  who  could  censure  him  for  not  resisting  the  .silvery  sweet- 
ness of  her  musical  voice,  when  she  raised  it  in  song  by  the  evening 
camp-fire;  or,  for  not  withstanding  the  fascinations  of  her  merry 
laugh,  as  its  liquid  cadences  rung  out  at  night-fall  upon  the  air, 
when  every  note  was  in  delicious  and  accordant  sympathy  with 
the  pulsations  of  his  own  glad  heart? 

And  that  which  filled  both  their  souls  with  an  intense  and 
beatified  joy  was  the  consciousness  that  the  tender  passion  was 
unreservedly  reciprocated  by  each.  Nothing,  therefore,  remained, 
but  to  select  becoming  presents  for  the  parents  of  the  bride,  in 
accordance  with  Indian  custom,*  provide  a sumptuous  repast,  and 
celebrate  their  auspicious  nuptials  with  appropriate  ceremonies. 
To  do  this,  Tee-hee-neh  and  her  companions  would  prepare  the 
acorn  bread,  collect  ripe  wild  fruits  and  edible  herbs  in  liberal 
abundance,  and  garnish  them  with  fragrant  flowers;  while  Kos- 
soo-kah,  pressing  the  best  hunters  of  his  tribe  into  his  service, 
should  scale  the  adjacent  cliffs  for  grouse,  and  deer,  that  right 
royal  might  be  the  feast. 

Before  taking  their  fond  and  long-lingering  adieus,  it  was 
agreed  that  Kos-soo-kah,  at  sunset,  should  go  to  the  edge  of  the 
mountain  north  of  Cholock,*f-  and  report  the  measure  of  his  suc- 
cess to  Tee-hee-neh  (who  was  to  climb  to  its  foot  to  receive  it),  by 
fastening  the  requisite  number  of  grouse  feathers  to  an  anxnr 
■thereby  to  indicate  the  quantity  taken ; and  from  his  strong  bow 

*See  chapter  on  Indian  manners,  customs,  etc. 

+The  Yo  Semite  Fall. 


372 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


shoot  it  far  out  that  she  might  see  it,  and  watch  for  its  falling, 
and  thus  be  the  first  to  report  the  good  tidings  of  his  success  to 
her  people. 

After  a most  fortunate  hunt,  while  his  young  braves  were 
resting,  preparatory  to  the  exacting  task  of  carrying  down  their 
game,  Kos-soo-kah  repaired  to  the  point  agreed  upon,  prepared 
the  arrow  for  its  tender  mission,  and  was  about  to  send  it  forth, 
when  the  edge  of  the  cliff  began  to  crumble  away,  carrying  the 
noble  Kos-soo-kah  with  it. 

Long  did  the  loving  Tee-hee-neh  wait,  and  longingly  watch 
for  the  signal ; nor  would  she  leave  her  watchful  post  for  many 
weary  hours  after  darkness  had  settled  down  upon  the  mountain, 
although  resistless  premonitions  and  forebodings  were  bringing  a 
deeper  darkness  to  her  heart,  that  were  intensified  by  the  sounds 
of  falling  rock  she  had  heard.  But  thinking,  at  last,  that  his 
ambitious  wishes  might  have  tempted  him  to  wander  farther  than 
he  had  intended,  and  finding  that  his  signal-arrow  could  not  be 
seen  in  the  darkness,  at  that  very  moment  he  might  be  feeling 
his  uncertain  way  among  the  blocks  of  rock  that  strewed  the 
Indian  Canon,  down  which  he  was  to  come;  that  possibility 
gave  wings  to  her  thoughts,  and  speed  to  her  tripping  feet,  as  she 
hurriedly  picked  her  difficult  wa}7  from  ledge  to  ledge;  passing 
this  precipice,  lowering  herself  rapidly  over  that,  where  a misstep 
must  necessarily  have  proven  fatal,  until  at  last  she  reached  the- 
foot  of  the  cliff. 

Finding  upon  her  advent  there  that  her  beloved  Kos-soo-kah 
had  not  yet  arrived,  her  anxious  yearnings  for  his  safe  return, 
made  more  poignant  by  a kind  of  uncontrollable  prescience,  led 
her  to  the  spot  whence  he  must  first  emerge.  Hoping  against 
hope,  she  could  hear  as  well  as  feel  the  beatings  of  her  own  sad 
heart,  as  she  listened  through  the  lagging  hours  for  the  sound  of 
his  welcome  footfall,  or  manly  voice.  And  as  she  impatiently 
waited,  pacing  the  hot  sand  backwards  and  forwards,  she  sang  in 
the  low,  sweet,  yet  impassioned  cadences  peculiar  to  her  race, 
that  which,  when  translated,  should  be  substantially  rendered  as 
follows: — 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


373 


“Come  to  the  heart  that  loves  thee; 

To  the  eyes  that  beam  in  brightness  but  to  gladden  thine; 

Come,  where  fond  thoughts  in  holiest  incense  rise; 

And  cherished  memory  rears  her  altar-shrine. 

Dearest — come  home  ! ” 

But,  a] as ! finding  that  when  the  dark  gray  dawn  of  earliest 
morning  brought  not  her  beloved  one,  like  a deer  she  sprang  from 
rock  to  rock  up  the  steep  ascent,  not  pausing  even  for  breath,  nor 
delaying  a moment  for  rest ; she  hastened  towards  the  spot  whence 
the  expected  signal  was  to  be  given.  Tracks — his  blessed  tracks 
— could  be  distinctly  seen,  and  followed  to  the  mountain’s  edge; 
but,  alas,  not  one  was  visible  to  indicate  his  return  therefrom. 
When  she  called,  only  the  echo  of  her  own  sad  voice  returned  an 
answer.  Where  could  he  be?  The  marks  of  a new  fracture  of 
the  mountain  disclosed  the  fact  that  a portion  had  recently  broken 
off;  and  memory,  at  once,  recalled  the  sounds  that  she  had  heard, 
when  on  the  ledge  below.  It  could  not  be  that  her  heart-cherished 
Kos-soo-kah  could  have  been  standing  there  at  the  time  of  its  fall ! 
Oh!  No.  The  Great  Spirit  would  not  be  so  unmindful  of  her 
burning  love  for  him  as  to  permit  that.  With  agonized  dread 
she  summoned  sufficient  courage  to  peer  over  the  edge  of  the  cliff, 
and  the  lifeless  and  ghastly  form  of  her  darling  was  seen  lying- 
in  the  hollow,  near  that  which  has  since  been  designated  the  Giant’s 
Thumb. 

Spontaneously  acting  with  a clearness  and  strength  that  de- 
spair will  sometimes  give,  she  kindled  a bright  fire  upon  the  very 
edge  of  the  mountain,  that  thereby  she  might  telegraph  her  wants 
and  wishes  to  those  below,  in  accordance  with  a custom  that  every 
Indian  learns  to  practice  from  childhood;*  and  slow  as  the  hours 
ebbed  away,  the  entreated  relief  came  at  last,  for  the  hoped-for 
recovery  of  her  soul’s  jewel,  even  though  now  sleeping  in  the  cold 
embrace  of  death.  Young  sapling  tamaracks  were  lashed  end- 
wise together,  with  thongs  cut  from  the  skin  of  the  deer  that  were 
to  form  part  of  the  wedding  feast;  and,  when  these  were  ready, 


*See  pages  25,  26. 


374 


IN’  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


Tee-hee-neh,  springing  forward,  would  permit  no  hands  but  her 
own  to  be  the  first  to  touch  the  beloved  one.  She  would  descend 
to  recover  him,  or  perish  in  the  attempt.  Finding  that  no  amount 
of  persuasion  could  change  her  resolve  they  reluctantly,  yet  care- 
fully, lowered  her  to  the  prostrate  form  of  Kos-soo-kah ; and,  as 
though  strength  of  purpose  had  converted  her  nerves  into  steel, 
defiant  of  all  danger,  she  first  kissed  his  pale  lips,  then  unwound 
the  deer-skin  cords  from  around  her  body,  fastened  them  lovingly, 
yet  firmly,  to  his,  and  gave  the  signal  for  uplifting  him  to  the  top. 
This  accomplished,  gently,  yet  efficiently,  a reverent  anxiety  could 
be  seen  engraved  upon  the  faces  of  those  performing  that  kindly 
act,  for  the  safe  deliverance  of  the  heroic  Tee-hee-neh;  but, 
the  same  undismayed  fearlessness,  and  apparent  nerve,  that  had 
enabled  her  to  descend,  did  not  forsake  her  now,  and  before  the 
self-imposed  task  she  had  so  unfalteringly  set  herself  had  been 
accomplished.  Firmly  fastening  her  foot,  to  prevent  slipping, 
without  other  support  or  protection,  she  nervously  clutched  the 
pole  with  one  hand,  and  as  a signal  of  her  wishes  waved  the  other ; 
and  in  a few  moments  was  again  at  the  side  of  her  adored,  though 
lifeless,  Kos-soo-kah.  Silently,  tearlessly,  she  looked  for  a mo- 
ment into  those  eyes  that  love  had  once  lighted,  and  at  the  color- 
less lips  from  which  she  had  so  delectably  sipped  the  nectar  of  her 
earthly  bliss ; then,  noiselessly,  quiveringly,  sinking  to  her  knees, 
she  fell  upon  his  bosom ; and,  when  lifted  by  gentle  hands  a few 
moments  thereafter,  it  was  discovered  that  her  spirit  had  joined 
that  of  her  Kos-soo-kah,  in  the  hunting  grounds  of  the  hereafter. 
She  had  died  of  a broken  heart. 

As  the  arrow  that  had  so  unexpectedly,  yet  so  ruthlessly, 
brought  on  this  double  calamity,  could  never  be  found,  it  is  be- 
lieved that  it  was  spirited  away  by  the  reunited  Tee-hee-neh  and 
Kos-soo-kah,  to  be  sacredly  kept  as  a memento  of  their  undying 
love.  The  heavenward-pointed  thumb,  still  standing  there,  in  the 
hollow  near  which  Kos-soo-kah’s  body  was  found,  is  ever  rever- 
ently known  among  all  the  sons  and  daughters  of  Ah-wah-nee,  as 
Hum-moo,  or  “ The  Lost  Arrow.” 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


375 


On  the  right  of  Hum-moo,  or  Yo  Semite  Point,  is  Indian 
Canon. 

It  was  up  this  canon  that  the  Indian  prisoners  escaped  in  1851, 
as  related  in  Chapter  V,  pages  68,  69;  from  which  circumstance 
originated  the  name;  and  it  was  down  this  that  the  avenging 
Monos  crept,  when  they  substantially  exterminated  the  Yo  Semite 


INDIAN  CANON. 


tribe  in  1853,  as  recorded  in  Chapter  VI,  pages  76,  77,  and  78. 
This  canon,  therefore,  is  invested  with  historical  interest.  For 
the  purpose  of  enabling  visitors  to  obtain  views  of  the  sublime 
scenery  of  the  Sierras  from  the  high  ridge  westerly  from  the  crest 
of  Yo  Semite  Point,  and  look  upon  the  top  of  the  Yo  Semite  Fall,, 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


37  6 

before  making  its  leap  into  the  V alley,  the  writer  had  a horse-trail 
constructed  up  it,  in  1870.  The  small  streamlet  leaping  in  at  the 
side  is  called  the  Little  Winkle. 

Bearing  to  the  right  from  this  standpoint  can  be  seen  the 
North  Dome,  beneath  which  are  the  Royal  Arches  and  Washing- 
ton Tower ; and,  following  in  succession,  are  the  Half  Dome,  Grizzly 
Peak,  Mount  Starr  King,  Glacier  Point,  Union  Point,  the  Senti- 
nel, Cathedral  Peaks,  Eagle  Peak,  Eagle  Tower,  and,  the  Yo 
Semite  Fall,  all  forming  a glorious  panorama  of  Valley  celebrities. 
But,  advancing  toward  the  latter,  on  our  right  we  pass  the  or- 
chard, the  Hutchings’  cabin  (described  in  Chapter  XI,  pages 
138,  139,  140,  and  141),  and  are  soon  at  the  Yo  Semite  Creek 
Bridge,  and  can  there  see  the  large  volume  of  water  that  forms 

THE  YO  SEMITE  FALL. 

Looking  at  the  full  stream  that  is  hurrying  on,  in  the  early 
spring  at  least,  we  can  scarcely  realize  that  all  this  water  has  just 
made  the  leap  of  nearly  two  thousand  six  hundred  feet;  or  that 
the  apparently  small  fall  we  had  seen  from  the  opposite  side  of 
the  Valley,  could  develop  into  so  imposing  a spectacle.  Noticing 
this  on  a recent  occasion,  when  in  company  with  a civil  engineer, 
the  inquiry  was  made,  “ About  how  much  water  do  you  suppose 
there  is  now  rolling  over  the  edge  of  that  mountain  yonder,  judg- 
ing from  the  size  and  speed  of  this  stream?”  “ I will  tell  you 
this  evening,”  was  the  prompt  rejoinder.  At  the  promised  time  I 
received  the  following: — 

When  at  the  little  red  bridge  which  spans  the  stream,  which  I under- 
stood you  to  be  supplied  entirely  by  the  Yo  Semite  Fall,  this  afternoon,  I 
made  a rough  measurement  of  the  quantity  of  water  flowing,  and  found 
it  to  he  as  follows:  Width  40  feet,  mean  depth  5 feet,  mean  velocity  about 
4 feet  per  second.  Quantity  40x5x4  = 800  cubic  feet  per  second,  or  about 
6,000  gallons  per  second. 

I understood  you  to  say  that  you  had  found  the  width  of  the  stream 
at  the  top  of  the  Yo  Semite  Fall  to  be  34  feet.  If  the  velocity  there  be  15 
feet  per  second,  this  quantity  would  require  a mean  depth  of  1 foot  7 
inches.  Very  respectfully  yours, 

Hiram  F.  Mills,  Civil  Engineer. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


377 


Before  advancing  far  beyond  the  Yo  Semite  Creek  Bridge, 
let  me  call  attention  to  an  apparently  small  pine  tree  that  stands 
alone,  at  the  top  of  the  shrub-covered  slope  that  extends  to  the 
foot  of  the  upper  Yo  Semite  Fall  wall,  and  seemingly  beneath  it. 
Now  that  tree,  small  as  it  appears,  by  careful  measurement  is  a 
little  over  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  in  height,  by  eight 
feet  seven  inches  in  circumference.  By  noticing  the  comparatively 
insignificant  proportions  of  that  tree,  we  may  be  assisted  in  com- 
prehending the  otherwise  unrealized  altitudes  of  these  immense 
cliffs.  The  large  pine  growing  on  the  ledge  below  that,  has  a cir- 
cumference, at  the  base,  of  twelve  feet  nine  inches.  Hum -moo, 
or  the  Giant’s  Thumb,  stands  prominently  up  and  out  when  seen 
from  this  standpoint;  and  whose  height  is  said  be  two  hundred 
and  three  feet  above  the  hollow  where  Kos-soo-kah’s  body  was 
reputed  to  be  found,  according  to  the  legend  of  the  Lost  Arrow. 

FOOT  OF  THE  LOWEB  YO  SEMITE  FALL. 

The  nearer  we  approach  the  Yo  Semite  Fall,  the  more  fully 
do  we  realize  its  astonishing  attractions.  Those  who  content 
themselves  by  viewing  this  magnificent  scene  only  at  a distance, 
must  have  about  the  same  apprehension  of  its  impressive  attraction 
as  they  would  of  a very  beautiful  woman,  or  handsome  man,  when 
seen  about  half  a mile  off.  The  same  comparison  will  appositely 
apply  to  seeing  the  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls  only  from  Glacier 
Point.  It  is  nearness  that  places  ms  in  appreciative  communion 
with  Nature  and  her  manifold  and  unspeakable  glories.  1 have 
accompanied  hundreds,  aye,  thousands,  to  the  foot  of  the  Lower 
Yo  Semite  Fall,  and  this,  without  an  exception,  has  been  the 
spontaneous  confession  of  every  one.  So  that  every  step  that 
we  take  after  crossing  the  Yo  Semite  Creek  Bridge  puts  us  into 
closer  relationship  with  the  impressive  majesty  of  this  wonderful 
fall.  “How  it  grows  upon  us,”  is  a most  frequent  ejaculation 
that  is  born  of  apprehensive  and  appreciative  feeling.  How  we 
watch  the  bold  leap  that  it  is  making  over  the  cliff,  more  than 
two  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  our  heads,  and  follow  the 


25 


378 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


vaulting  masses  of  its  rocket-shaped  and  foaming  waters  with  the 
eye,  down  to  the  seething  caldron  into  which  it  bounds,  at  the 
base  of  the  upper  fall ; its  eddying  mists  fringed  by  the  sun  with 
iridescent  colors,  that  are  constantly  changing  and  reforming. 
At  the  right  of  the  fall,  just  below  its  crest,  a dark  mass  of 
shadow  reveals  the  portrait  of  the  “ Gnome  of  the  Yo  Semite,” 
with  his  badge  of  rank  hanging  across  the  shoulder. 

c o O 

The  oaks,  dogwoods,  alders,  maples,  pines,  and  cedars  now 


Photo,  by  C.  L.  Weed. 


VALLEY  FORD  OF  THE  YO  SEMITE. 

begin  to  form  an  arcade  of  great  beauty  over  the  sparkling,  rip- 
pling, foaming,  singing,  bowlder-strewn  foreground  of  the  stream  \ 
while  in  the  background  the  lower  Yo  Semite  is  leaping  down  in 
one  broad  sheet  of  white  sheen,  the  main  body  of  which  seems 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


379 


composed  of  immense  icicles  fringed  with  snow,  falling  from 
behind  a dark  middle  distance  of  pines  and  firs.  If  the  snow 
fields  above  are  rapidly  melting  beneath  the  fiery  strength  of  a 
hot  summer’s  sun,  a large  body  of  water  will  be  seen  rushing  and 
bounding  over  and  among  blocks  of  granite;  then,  spreading  out 
afterwards,  to  form  numerous  streams  that  can  readily  be  forded, 
if  the  ford  is  prudently  selected,  and  thus  afford  a strikingly 
picturesque  scene. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  the  cloud-like  spray  that  de- 
scends is  the  main  fall  itself,  broken  into  infinitesimal  particles 
and  thus  becomes  nothing  but  a broad  sheet  of  cloud.  By  no 
means;  for,  although  this  stream  shoots  over  the  margin  of  the 
mountain,  nearly  five  hundred  feet  above,  it  falls  almost  in  a solid 
body;  not  in  a continuous  stream  exactly,  but  having  a close  re- 
semblance to  an  avalanche  of  snowy  rockets  that  appear  to  be 
perpetually  trying  to  overtake  each  other  in  their  descent,  and 
commingling  one  with  the  other,  compose  a torrent  of  indescriba- 
ble power  and  beauty. 

As  we  advance,  a change  of  temperature  becomes  very  per- 
ceptible, so  that  the  warmth  experienced  in  the  open  Valley  upon 
the  way,  is  gradually  changed  to  chilliness.  Soon  we  feel  that  a 
breeze,  about  equal  in  strength  to  eight  knots  an  hour,  is  meet- 
ing us  directly  in  the  face,  and  bringing  with  it  a heavy  shower 
of  finely  comminuted  spray,  that  falls  with  sufficient  force  to 
saturate  our  clothing  in  a few  moments.  From  this  a beautiful 
phenomenon  is  observable,  inasmuch  as,  after  striking  our  hats, 
the  diamond-like  mist  shoots  off  at  an  angle  of  about  thirty-five 
or  forty  degrees,  and  as  the  sun  shines  upon  it,  a number  of 
miniature  rainbows  are  formed  all  around  us.  In  early  days, 
when  conveniences  were  few,  this  cold  draught  of  air  was  pressed 
into  service  as  a meat-safe,  and  answered  very  well,  in  the  absence 
of  all  others.  The  philosophy  which  explains  the  cause  of  this 
cold  current  is,  that  the  water-fall  leaping  into  the  air  naturally 
displaces  it  by  driving  it  downward,  and  thus  creates  a vacuum ; 
and  the  air  from  above  rushing  in  to  fill  that  vacuum,  causes 


380 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


this  constant  wind.  It  will  be  noticed  that  even  the  trees  which 
stand  in  the  current  are  prevented  from  forming  branches  on 
their  windward  side.  It  will  also  be  noticed  that  the  trunks  of 
these  trees  are  denuded  of  branches  for  from  fifty  to  eighty  feet  up 
them ; the  cause  of  which,  probably,  arises  from  the  heavy  deposits 
of  snow  which  form  here  during  some  winters  (I  have  crossed 
bridges  of  snow  here  that  were  over  seventy  feet  in  thickness), 
and  as  its  melting  is  mainly  from  beneath,  when  the  snow  settles 
down  it  breaks  off  all  the  branches,  and  carries  them  down  with  it. 

Drawing  still  nearer,  large  masses  of  sharp,  angular  rocks,  are 
scattered  here  and  there,  forming  the  uneven  sides  of  an  immense 
and  apparently  ever-boiling  caldron ; around,  and  in  the  inter- 
stices of  which  numerous  dwarf  ferns,  weeds,  grasses,  and  flowers 
are  ever  growing ; where  not  actually  washed  by  the  falling  stream. 
Hastily  rushing  through  the  spray,  and  taking  shelter  behind  a 
buttress  of  the  mountain,  we  can  see  two  of  the  divisions  which 
make  this  water-fall  apparently  forming  into  one. 

It  is  beyond  the  power  of  language  to  describe  the  awe- 
inspiring majesty  of  the  darkly-frowning  and  overhanging 
mountain  walls  of  solid  granite  that  here  hem  us  in  on  every  side, 
as  though  they  would  threaten  us  with  instantaneous  annihilation, 
did  we  for  a moment  attempt  to  deny  their  power.  If  man  ever 
feels  his  utter  insignificance,  it  is  when  looking  upon  such  a scene 
of  appalling  grandeur  as  the  one  here  presented. 

The  point  Avhence  the  photograph  was  taken  from  which 
the  accompanying  engraving  was  made,  being  directly  near  the 
foot  of  the  lower  fall,  might  lead  to  the  supposition  that  the  lower 
section,  embracing,  as  it  does,  about  three-fourths  of  the  whole, 
was  the  highest  of  the  two,  when  the  relative  heights  of  the  three 
are,  as  given  by 

Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney,  State  Geologist:  Lieutenant  Wheeler,  U.  S.  Survey. 


Upper  Fall 

. .1,500 

Upper  Fall 

. . 1,436 

Middle  (including  cascades) . . 

626 

Middle  (including  cascades) . . 

. . . .626 

Lower 

. .. .400 

Lower 

. . . .488 

Total 

. .2,526 

Total 

. ..2,550 

But  Professor  Whitney  makes  this  observation  : — 


Photo  by  C.  L.  "Weed. 


NEAR  VIEW  OF  YO  SEMITE  FALL. 


382 


JJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


The  vertical  height  of  the  lip  of  the  fall  above  the  Valley  is,  in  round 
numbers,  2,600  feet,  our  various  measurements  giving  from  2,537  to  2,641, 
the  discrepancies  being  due  to  the  fact  that  a near  approach  to,  or  a pre- 
cise definition  of,  the  place  where  the  perpendicular  portion  of  the  fall 
commences  is  not  possible.  The  lip  or  edge  of  the  fall  is  a great  rounded 
mass  of  granite,  polished  to  the  last  degree,  on  which  it  was  found  to  be 
a hazardous  matter  to  move.  A difference  of  a hundred  feet,  in  a fall  of 
this  height,  would  be  entirely  imperceptible  to  most  eyes. 

The  stream  which  forms  this  fall  flows  mainly  from  the  melt- 
ing snows  near  Mt.  Hoffman,  some  eighteen  miles  distant.  When 
the  trip  is  taken  to  Eagle  Peak,  as  the  trail  passes  sufficiently 
close  to  the  foot  of  the  upper  Yo  Semite  Fall  to  afford  the  oppor- 
tunity of  a closer  examination,  we  can  then  see  more  of  its  varied 
and  interesting  features. 

JAUNT  TO  MIRROR  LAKE. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  and  most  satisfying  of 
pilgrimages  that  could  possibly  be  made  within  the  walls  of  the 
Vfflley ; but,  to  see  the  lake  at  its  best,  when  the  reflected  shadows 
are  strongest,  and  the  beautiful  mirror  upon  its  glassy  bosom  is 
in  the  greatest  perfection,  it  should  be  seen  before  the  sun  rises 
upon  it.  This  will  enable  the  visitor  to  witness  the  interesting 
phenomena  of  “sunrise  on  the  lake,”  and  afford  the  opportunity 
of  its  repetition  several  times  on  the  same  morning ! Between  ten 
and  twelve  A.  M.,  the  sea  breeze  generally  sweeps  across  it,  and 
breaks  the  mirror  into  as  many  pieces  as  there  are  ripples  upon  it. 
Therefore  make  the  visit  early,  say  about  seven  o’clock;  but  this, 
of  course,  differs  according  to  the  season  of  the  year;  yet  the 
proper  time  for  leaving  the  hotel  can  always  be  ascertained  from 
the  landlord,  or  from  the  carriage  proprietors.  On  account  of  the 
early  time  desirable  for  setting  out  on  this  trip,  it  is  better  to* 
postpone  it  until  the  second  day  after  arrival,  as  a premature 
departure  from  our  couch  on  the  succeeding  morning  of  our 
advent,  will  generally  bring  on  premature  fatigue,  and  a conse- 
quent decrease  in  the  amount  of  our  enjoyment. 

Leaving  the  hotel  early,  then,  we  cross  Meadow  Avenue  to 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


383 


the  oak-studded  low  ridge  on  the  northern  side,  and  threading 
our  way  through  the  grove,  have  glimpses  of  our  unspeakably 
sublime  surroundings  from  between  the  trees.  On  our  left  we 
pass  the  revered  spot  where  dear  ones  are  sleeping ; and  soon  find 
ourselves  at  the  old  Indian  camp  ground,  near  Indian  Canon ; the 
bright  sunlight  and  somber  shadows  winking  and  twinkling  from 
between  the  trees,  upon  the  gurgling  streams  that  intersect  the 
road.  While  on  our  right  lie  luxuriant  green  fields,  first  fenced 
and  cultivated  by  Mr.  J.  C.  Lamon;  and  the  old  cabin  where 
he  once  spent  his  winters,  as  narrated  on  page  137.  These  are 
now  occupied,  and  well  cared  for,  by  Mr.  A.  Harris  and  family. 

ROYAL  ARCHES,  AND  WASHINGTON  TOWER. 

But  a few  yards  beyond  these  we  cross  the  streams  that  form 
the  Royal  Arch  Cascades,  a diamond-lighted,  wavy,  musical  rivu- 
let, that  drops  gently  down  some  two  thousand  feet  over  the 
Royal  Arch  wall.  This  is  so  called  from  the  immense  arches 
that  are  hewed  out  of  its  side,  which  have  a span  of  over  a quarter 
of  a mile,  and  a height  of  about  one  thousand  seven  hundred  feet; 
and  which,  with  the  Washington  Tower,  form  the  base  of  the 
great  North  Dome,  represented  in  the  engraving. 

The  Indian  name  of  this  arch-formed  and  dome- crowned 
mountain  is  To-coy-se,  derived  from  the  prominence  and  depth 
(some  fifty  feet)  of  one  of  its  projecting  conchoidal  fractures,  hav- 
ing a resemblance  to  a poke-bonnet-like  shade  to  the  Indian 
baby-basket,  for  protecting  the  occupant’s  eyes  from  the  sun,  and 
which  is  called  “ to-coy-se.”  Owing  to  the  curve  of  these  wing- 
like arches,  stretching  as  they  do  from  a kind  of  lion-like  head, 
near  the  top  of  Washington  Tower — as  the  abutting  angle  of  this 
mountain  is  called — a gentleman  resident  of  Philadelphia  sug- 
gested that  “ The  Winged  Lion  ” (one  of  the  sculptures  found  by 
Layard  in  the  ruined  cities  of  the  Euphrates  Valley)  would  be  a 
more  expressive  and  suitable  name  for  it  than  “Royal  Arches.” 

There  is  a large  cave  among  the  talus  lying  here,  that  was 
once  used  as  a store-room  by  Mr.  Lamon,  whenever  his  winters 


384 


JJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


P hoto.  by  C Roach. 

NORTH  DOME,  ROYAL  ARCHES,  AND  WASHINGTON  TOWER. 

(North  Dome,  3,700  feet  above  Valley.) 

were  spent  outside  the  Valley.  Near  this  there  is  also  another 
talus-formed  cave,  that  is  a natural  fortification,  and  which  was 
used  as  such,  by  the  Indians,  when  pursued  by  the  avenging 
soldiers  in  1851-52.  A short  turn  out  from  the  road,  when  re- 
turning from  Mirror  Lake,  will  afford  the  opportunity  of  seeing  it. 

When  on  the  road  towards  Mirror  Lake  it  may  not  be  amiss 
to  revert  to  the  legend  recorded  on  page  59,  as  it  was  here  the 
exploit  occurred  that  gave  the  name  of  “ Yo  Semite”  to  the  tribe, 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


385 


and  afterwards  to  the  Valley  itself.  Riding  over  rocky  hillocks, 
and  among  debris  that  has  at  some  time  fallen  from  the  adjacent 
mountains,  with  a park-like  array  of  trees  on  either  hand,  we 
first  arrive  at  Little  Lake;  and,  just  beyond  it,  the  bright  bosom 
of  the  enchantingly  beautiful  Mirror  Lake  comes  into  full  view. 

At  first  its  size  is  slightly  disappointing,  but  that  is  soon  lost 
sight  of  and  forgotten  in  admiration  of  its  transcendent  loveliness. 
There  is  not  a spot  on  earth,  yet  seen  by  man,  that  so  charmingly 
blends  majesty  with  beauty.  And  as  soon  as  the  beatified  first 
impression  somewhat  subsides,  and  we  can  analyze  its  marvelous 
surroundings  more  in  detail,  the  stronger  becomes  the  conviction  of 
its  unequaled  charms. 

In  full  front  of  us,  bearing  a little  to  the  left,  perhaps,  stands 
Mount  Watkins,  a second  El  Capitan  (yet  loftier),  that  exceeds 
four  thousand  feet  in  height  above  the  bosom  of  the  lake ; then 
comes  the  deep  gorge  through  which  the  waters  of  Lake  Ten-ie-ya, 
(some  twelve  miles  easterly),  leap  from  crag  to  pool,  then  gurgle 
among  huge  blocks  of  granite,  until  they  reach  Mirror  Lake, 
there  to  become  the  medium  of  so  much  satisfying  splendor ; on 
the  right  of  this  stands  glorious  Cloud’s  Rest,  nearly  six  thousand 
feet  above  the  lake ; and  directly  southeast  of  us  towers  up  nearly 
five  thousand  feet  the  over-shadowing  and  lofty  wall  of  grand 
“ Tis-sa-ack  ” (Half  Dome),  so  called  in  affectionate  veneration 
for  the  Indian’s  guardian  angel  of  the  Valley,  bearing  that 
name,  as  will  become  more  apparent  when  the  accompanying 
legend  is  read. 

Almost  one-half  of  this  immense  mass,  either  from  some  con- 
vulsion of  nature,  or 

“ Time’s  effacing  fingers,” 

has  fallen  over,  by  which,  most  probably,  the  dam  for  the  lake 
was  first  formed.  Yet  proudly,  aye,  defiantly  erect,  it  still  holds 
its  noble  head,  and  is  not  only  the  highest  of  all  those  standing- 
more  immediately  around,  but  is  one  of  the  greatest  attractions 
of  the  Valley.  Moreover,  in  this  are  centered  many  agreeable 
associations  to  the  Indian  mind,  as  this  was  once  the  traditionary 


KE-KO-TOO-YEM  (Sleeping  Water),  OR  MIRROR  LAKE. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


387 


home  of  the  angel-like  and  beautiful  Tis-sa-ack,  after  whom  her 
devoted  Indian  worshipers  named  this  gloriously  majestic  mount- 
ain. While  we  sit  in  the  shade  of  these  fine  old  trees,  and  look 
upon  all  the  objects  around  us,  mirrored  on  the  unruffled  waters  of 
the  lake,  let  us  relate  the  following  interesting  legend  of  Tu-tock- 
ah-nu-lah,  after  whom  the  vast  perpendicular  and  massive  project- 
ing rock  at  the  lower  end  of  the  valley  was  named,  and  with 
which  is  closely  interwoven  the  history  of  Tis-sa-ack. 

This  legend  was  related  in  an  Eastern  journal,  by  a gentleman 
once  visiting  here,  who  signs  himself  “ Iota,”  and  who  received  it 
from  the  lips  of  an  old  Indian;  the  relation  of  which,  although 
several  points  of  interest  are  omitted,  will,  nevertheless,  prove 
very  entertaining: — 

THE  LEGEND  OF  TU-TOCK-AH-NU-LAH  AND  TIS-SA-ACK. 

“ It  was  in  the  unremembered  past  that  the  children  of  the 

sun  first  dwelt  in  Yo  Semite.  Then  all  was  happiness;  for  Tu- 

tock-ah-nu-la  sat  on  high  in  his  rocky  home,  and  cared  for  the 

people  whom  he  loved.  Leaping  over  the  upper  plains,  he  herded 

the  wild  deer,  that  the  people  might  choose  the  fattest  for  the 

feast.  He  roused  the' bear  from  his  cavern  in  the  mountain,  that 

the  brave  might  hunt.  From  his  lofty  rock  he  prayed  to  the 

Great  Spirit,  and  brought  the  soft  rain  upon  the  corn  in  the 

valley.  The  smoke  of  his  pipe  curled  into  the  air,  and  the  golden 

sun  breathed  warmly  through  its  blue  haze,  and  ripened  the  crops, 

that  the  women  might  gather  them  in.  When  he  laughed,  the 

face  of  the  winding  river  was  rippled  with  smiles ; when  he  sighed, 

the  wind  swept  sadly  through  the  sighing  pines ; if  he  spoke,  the 

sound  was  like  the  deep  voice  of  the  cataract;  and  when  he  smote 

the  far-striding  bear,  his  whoop  of  triumph  rang  from  crag  to 

gorge — echoed  from  mountain  to  mountain.  His  form  was 
© © 

straight  like  the  arrow,  and  elastic  like  the  bow.  His  foot  was 
swifter  than  the  red  deer,  and  his  eye  was  strong  and  bright  like 
the  rising  sun. 

“ But  one  morning,  as  he  roamed,  a bright  vision  came 
before  him,  and  then  the  soft  colors  of  the  West  were  in  his  lus- 


388 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


trous  eye.  A maiden  sat  upon  the  southern  granite  dome  that 
lifts  its  gray  head  among  the  highest  peaks.  She  was  not  like 
the  dark  maidens  of  the  tribe  below,  for  the  yellow  hair  rolled 
over  her  dazzling  form,  as  golden  waters  over  silver  rocks;  her 
brow  beamed  with  the  pale  beauty  of  the  moonlight,  and  her  blue 
eyes  were  as  the  far-off  hills  before  the  sun  goes  down.  Her  little 
foot  shone  like  the  snow-tufts  on  the  wintry  pines,  and  its  arch 
was  like  the  spring  of  a bow.  Two  cloud-like  wings  wavered 
upon  her  dimpled  shoulders,  and  her  voice  was  as  the  sweet,  sad 
tone  of  the  night-bird  of  the  woods. 

“ ‘Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah,’  she  softly  whispered;  then,  gliding  up 
the  rocky  dome,  she  vanished  over  its  rounded  tops.  Keen  was 
the  eye,  quick  was  the  ear,  swift  was  the  foot  of  the  noble  youth 
as  he  sped  up  the  rugged  path  in  pursuit ; but  the  soft  down  from 
her  snowy  wings  was  wafted  into  his  eyes,  and  he  saw  her  no 
more. 

“ Every  morning  now  did  the  enamored  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah 
leap  the  stony  barriers,  and  wander  over  the  mountains,  to  meet 
the  lovely  Tis-sa-ack.  Every  day  he  laid  sweet  acorns  and  wild 
flowers  upon  her  dome.  His  ear  caught  her  footstep,  though  it 
was  light  as  the  falling  leaf ; his  eye  gazed  upon  her  beautiful 
form,  and  into  her  gentle  eyes;  but  never  did  he  speak  before  her, 
and  never  again  did  her  sweet-toned  voice  fall  upon  his  ear. 
Thus  did  he  love  the  fair  maid,  and  so  strong  was  his  thought  of 
her  that  he  forgot  the  crops  of  Yo  Semite,  and  they,  without  rain, 
wanting  his  tender  care,  quickly  drooped  their  heads,  and  shrunk. 
The  wind  whistled  mournfully  through  the  wild  corn,  the  wild 
bees  stored  no  more  honey  in  the  hollow  tree,  for  the  flowers 
had  lost  their  freshness,  and  the  green  leaves  became  brown. 
Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah  saw  none  of  this,  for  his  eyes  were  dazzled  by 
the  shining  wings  of  the  maiden.  But  Tis-sa-ack  looked  with 
sorrowing  eyes  over  the  neglected  Valley,  when  early  in  the  morn- 
ing she  stood  upon  the  gray  dome  of  the  mountain ; so,  kneeling- 
on  the  smooth,  hard  rock,  the  maiden  besought  the  Great  Spirit 
to  bring  again  the  bright  flowers  and  delicate  grasses,  green  trees, 
and  nodding  acorns. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


389 


“ Then,  with  an  awful  sound,  the  dome  of  granite  opened 
beneath  her  feet,  and  the  mountain  was  riven  asunder,  while  the 
melting,'  snow  from  the  Sierras  gushed  through  the  wonderful  gorge. 
Quickly  they  formed  a lake  between  the  perpendicular  walls  of 
the  cleft  mountain,  and  sent  a sweet  murmuring  river  through 
the  Valley.  All  then  was  changed.  The  birds  dashed  their  little 
bodies  into  the  pretty  pools  among  the  grasses,  and,  fluttering  out 
again,  sang  for  delight;  the  moisture  crept  silently  through  the 
parched  soil ; the  flowers  sent  up  a fragrant  incense  of  thanks ; 
the  corn  gracefully  raised  its  drooping  head;  and  the  sap,  with 
velvet  footfall,  ran  up  into  the  trees,  giving  life  and  energy  to  all. 
But  the  maid,  for  whom  the  Valley  had  suffered,  and  through 
whom  it  had  been  again  clothed  with  beauty,  had  disappeared  as 
strangely  as  she  came.  Yet,  that  all  might  hold  her  memory  in 
their  hearts,  she  left  the  quiet  lake,  the  winding  river,  and  yonder 
half  dome , which  still  bears  her  name  Tis-sa-ack.  It  is  5,000 
feet  above  the  placid  lake  that  mirrors  its  imposing  presence, 
and  every  evening  it  catches  the  last  rosy  rays  that  are  reflected 
from  the  snowy  peaks  above.  As  she  flew  away,  small  downy 
feathers  were  wafted  from  her  wings,  and  where  they  fell — 
on  the  margin  of  the  lake,  and  over  the  meadows  beyond — you 
now  see  thousands  of  little  white  violets,  which,  if  lovingly 
plucked  and  kissed,  will  bring  happy  thoughts  and  pleasant 
dreams  to  their  possessor,  wheresoever  they  are  carried. 

“ When  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah  knew  that  she  was  gone,  he  left 
his  rocky  castle,  and  wandered  away  in  search  of  his  lost  love. 
But  that  the  Yo  Semites  might  never  forget  him,  with  the  hunt- 
ing-knife in  his  bold  hand,  he  carved  the  bold  outlines  of  his 
noble  head  upon  the  rock  that  bears  his  name ; and  there  they 
still  remain  2,000  feet  above,  guarding  the  entrance  to  the 
Valley  which  had  received  his  tender  care.  After  man}^  years  of 
far-off  journey ings,  without  finding  his  beloved  Tis-sa-ack,  he 
returned  to  his  disconsolate  home,  and  near  where  Po-ho-no  spreads 
her  vapory  veil,  his  majestic  bust  stands  prominently  out  above 
the  encircling  walls  of  his  once  happy  habitation.” 


390 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


Whole  clays  could  be  enjoyably  spent  here,  reading,  musing, 
fishing,  and  rowing  on  the  lake ; and  a drive  to  it  with  a pleasant 
party  on  a moonlight  night,  becomes  a delightful  entertainment. 
On  one  occasion  the  Hon.  Mrs.  Yelverton,  with  the  gifted  Cali- 
fornia writer,  Mrs.  Lawrence  (better  known  by  the  nom  deplume 
of  “ Red  Ridinghood,”  and  who  has  done  so  much  by  her  rich  and 
varied  description  to  bespeak  wrapt  attention  to  the  Yalley),  and 
nine  others,  spent  a gloriously  memorable  evening  here.  Mrs. 
Yelverton  very  kindly  favored  us  with  Tennyson’s  appropriate 
and  inspiriting  “ Bugle  Song:” — 

The  splendor  falls  on  castle  walls, 

And  snowy  summits  old  in  story; 

The  long  light  shakes  across  the  lakes, 

And  the  wild  cataract  leaps  in  glory’. 

Blow,  bugle,  blow;  set  the  wild  echoes  flying; 

Blow,  bugle;  answer,  echoes,  dying,  dying,  dying. 

Pausing  a little  longer  between  the  higher  notes  than  the  music 
provides  for,  nine  distinct  echoes  could  be  heard  repeating  its 
delicious  strains.  In  the  early  morning,  when  every  sound  is 
hushed,  and  before  the  breeze  disturbs  its  quiet,  the  echoes  will  be 
found  excellent ; but  in  the  evening,  when  the  haze  lingers  on  the 
mountain -tops,  and  possibly  prevents  the  sound  from  passing  far 
upward,  the  effect  is  strongest  and  best. 

Speaking  of  echoes,  as  story-tellers  would  say,  this  reminds 
me  of  Mr.  J.  H.  Lawrence’s  graphic  description  of  an  echo,  when 
making  his  first  trip  to  Yo  Semite  in  1855,*  and  Indians  were 
supposed  to  be  uninvitingly  near: — 

“ Bang!”  went  the  rifle,  and  a thousand  echoes  responded.  “Great 
Scott!”  exclaimed  Hugh.  “Just  listen  to  it.  Will  it  ever  quit?  Jee- 
whillikins!  Who  ever  heard  a gun  crack  like  that?  It  seemed  to  stop  for 
a while,  but  it’s  going  yet — broke  out  in  a new  place.” 

“Well,  now,  I’m  happy  and  content,”  responded  Jim;  “for  if  there 
are  any  Indians  within  ten  miles  of  us,  they  are  going  to  get  up  and  dust. 
No  little  squad  of  Piutes,  Diggers,  or  Monos,  are  going  to  stop  within  hear- 
ing of  a whole  army.  They’ll  think  there’s  about  five  hundred  of  us — • 
won’t  they,  Hugh?  ” 

*See  page  93. 


TIIE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


391 


Ci  Yes  a thousand , easy  enough.  Did  you  ever  hear  the  like  of  those 
echoes?  They  rattled  away  along  the  crest  of  the  mountain,  jumping  in 
and  out  of  the  ravines,  butting  against  the  tops  of  the  tall  sugar  pines,  till 
they  got  tangled  up  and  lost  in  a big  canon  somewhere  away  yonder,  where 
they  seemed  to  die  out,  muttering  and  grumbling;  till  directly  they  gath- 
ered themselves  together  again,  and  came  rolling  out  big  as  pounds  of 
wool.” 

If  we  have  been  so  injudicious  as  to  leave  the  hotel  or  camp 
ground  before  breakfast,  or  neglected  a precautionary  provision 
for  our  mid  day  repast,  an  admonishing  voice  from  the  organs  of 
digestion  will  probably  hasten  our  premature  departure ; otherwise 
we  might  be  induced  to  tarry  longer  to  examine  the  supposed  ex- 
istence of  refractory  rays  of  light,  which  are  said  to  transvert  the 
ordinary  image  of  trees  mirrored,  and  to  place  them  upright  in 
the  mirror  as  in  nature;  or  examine,  in  detail,  the  many  objects 
that  are  represented  on  the  mountain  walls,  such  as  the  clothes- 
line, fish,  heads  of  men  and  forms  of  women,  elephants,  etc.,  dis- 
covered by  persons  with  keen  eyesight,  and  strong  imaginations. 

When  leaving  Mirror  Lake,  immediately  after  our  emergence 
from  the  rocky  talus  over  which*  we  have  been  riding,  should  we 
look  southward,  and  up  the  canon  to  the  left  of  Glacier  Point,  we 
would  see  the  Too-lool-a-we-ack,  or  Glacier  Canon  Fall,  leaping 
down  over  the  cliff.  Before  leaving  this  part  of  the  Valley  let  me 
call  your  attention  to 

A FINE  CHALYBEATE  SPRING 

That  bubbles  up,  on  the  margin  of  Ten-ie-ya  Creek.  I once 
visited  this  spring  in  company  with  the  eminent  English  chemist, 
Dr.  F.  It.  Lees,  of  Leeds,  and  he  pronounced  it  the  finest  and  most 
valuable  chalybeate  spring  he  had  ever  seen.  A carriage  can  go 
within  a few  yards  of  it. 

Just  below  the  chalybeate  spring  we  take  the  Tis-sa-ack 
Avenue  Road,  a delightfully  picturesque  stretch,  crossing  the  dark 
shady  waters  of  Ten-ie-ya  Creek  on  a strong  bridge;  and  on  the 
right  hand,  a few  steps  below  it,  can  be  seen  the  largest  tree  in 
the  Valley,  being  twenty-eight  feet  in  circumference  at  the  ground. 
It  is  a red  or  Douglas  spruce,  Abies  Douglasii.  A couple  of  hun- 


392 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


dred  yards  from  this,  on  our  right,  is  the  famous  Lamon  Orchard 
and  cabin,  where  Mr.  Lamon  spent  his  two  winters  entirely  alone, 
as  related  on  pages  135  and  138.  On  the  south  eastern  edge  of 
the  Lamon  Orchard,  lying  between  Ten-ie-ya  Creek  and  the  main 
Merced  Liver, 

WE  PASS  OVER  AX  OLD  MORAINE. 

This  seems  to  have  been  deposited  here  by  the  combined  ac- 
tion of  two  glaciers;  one  moving  down  Ten-ie-ya  Creek,  and  the 
other  by  the  main  river,  joined  in  the  Valley  by  another  from 
Glacier  Canon.  Glimpses  of  the  sparkling  stream,  fringed  with 
dogwoods,  alders,  oaks,  and  balm  of  gileads,  with  here  and  there 
a noble  pine;  scattered  masses  of  granite,  huge  bowlders,  and 
rocky  spurs,  over  which  our  road  passes ; these,  with  Glacier  Canon 
and  Glacier  Point,  unite  to  make  the  Tis-sa-ack  Avenue  drive  one 
of  the  most  enjoyable  of  them  all.  Presently  we  find  ourselves  on 
Tis-sa-ack  Bridge,  which  here  spans  the  Merced  Liver;  and,  look- 
ing northerly,  obtain  one  of  the  finest  of  all  views  of  the  North 
Dome,  which,  from  this  standpoint,  is  shaped  like  a hugh  Prussian 
military  hat;  and  the  leaping  cascades  above  the  bridge,  over- 
arched by  alders,  are  both  beautiful  and  wildly  picturesque. 

Spinning  down  the  Valley  from  the  bridge,  seemingly  directly 
underneath  the  Glacier  Point  Wall,  we  cross  several  large  and  de- 
liciously cold  springs  that  apparently  boil  out  from  beneath  it; 
and  which  are  to  be  pressed  into  service  for  supplying  the  new 
hotel  with  a most  liberal  abundance  of  excellent  water  (and  yet 
leave  plenty  for  others),  and  soon  thereafter  arrive  at 

THE  NEW  HOTEL. 

To  becomingly  provide  for  the  growing  wants  of  the  travel- 
ing public  in  accordance  with  the  progressive  spirit  of  the  age,  a 
new  and  commodious  hotel  was  resolved  upon  at  Yo  Semite,  and 
the  sum  of  $40,000  was  appropriated  by  the  Legislature  of  1885, 
for  its  construction.  The  Board  of  Commissioners  immediately 
advertised  for  suitable  plans,  and  from  among  those  submitted, 
selected  the  one  they  deemed  most  appropriate.  In  addition  to  its 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


393 


architectural  picturesqueness  it  has  seventy-four  good-sized  bed- 
rooms, dining  and  sitting  rooms,  billiard  hall,  and  bar  room,  hot 
and  cold  baths,  office,  and  other  convenient  apartments,  in  addi- 
tion to  capacious  verandas  on  two  stories.  It  is  to  be  first-class 
in  all  its  arrangements  and  appointments. 

DOINGS  OF  THE  “ CYCLONE.” 

About  a quarter  of  a mile  below  the  new  hotel,  a so-called 
“ cyclone”  swooped  down  from  a point  apparently  west  of  the 
Glacier  Wall  on  March  13, 1881,  and  cut  a swath  of  forest  desola- 
tion over  three  hundred  yards  in  breadth ; snapping  off  pine  trees 
exceeding  five  feet  in  diameter,  as  though  they  were  mere  pipe 
stems ; uprooting  others,  twisting  and  breaking  off  the  tops  and 
branches  of  sturdy  oaks,  as  though  enviously  angry  at  the  um- 
brageous quiet  they  were  enjoying  ; and  strewed  the  whole  plateau 
with  tree  wrecks.  One  hundred  cords  of  fire-wood,  besides  an 
abundance  of  good  logs  adapted  to  saw-mill  purposes,  were  scat- 
tered around. 

Now  I cannot  accept  the  “ cyclone  ” theory,  as  its  first  efforts 
were  expended  near  an  almost  vertical  bluff,  where  there  was  no 
room  for  such  a force  to' concentrate,  and  all  the  havoc  made  was 
in  a direction  at  right  angles  with  the  bluff.  My  theory,  there- 
fore, is  this  (and  I freely  concede  the  privilege  of  accepting 
or  declining  it):  On  the  7th  of  March,  a fall  of  snow  came,  that 
measured  fourteen  inches;  on  the  8th,  fifteen  inches;  on  the  9th, 
fourteen  and  a half  inches;  on  the  10th,  twelve  inches;  on  the 
11th,  sixteen  inches;  on  the  12th,  thirteen  inches;  all  of  this  lay 
on  the  shelving  side  of  the  mountain,  back  of  the  wind  swath. 
On  the  13th  of  March,  after  making  an  additional  deposit  of 
the  feathery  element  of  some  ten  inches,  a steady  and  heavy  rain 
set  in;  which,  running  down  the  shelving  wall,  severed  the  cling- 
ing connection  between  it  and  the  snow;  when,  having  no  sup- 
port, its  natural  weight,  infiltrated  by  the  falling  rain,  caused  the 
entire  mass  to  suddenly  give  way,  and  as  suddenly  to  displace 
the  air,  thus  causing*  the  devastation  stated. 

26 


394 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


The  lofty  and  bold  surroundings  on  every  hand  may  well 
charm  us  with  their  majesty  and  beauty,  as  we  drive  along ; while 
the  Yo  Semite  Fall  in  front  of  us  all  the  way  down,  provides 
an  everchanging  and  acceptable  variety  to  this  scenic  feast. 
About  a quarter  of  a mile  before  reaching  Barnard’s,  as  part  of 
our  course  is  upon  the  bank  of  the  Merced  River,  we  can  see  the 
trout  disporting  themselves  in  its  transparent  waters;  and  just 
beyond  that,  on  our  left,  is  the  little  school-house — and  then,  the 
hotels. 

AFTERNOON  RIDE  DOWN  THE  VALLEY. 

After  a substantial  lunch — called  by  many  English  visitors 
“tiffin  ” — made  palatable  by  that  best  of  all  sauces,  a good  appe- 
tite, as  our  carriage  is  possibly  waiting,  let  us  make  an  excursion 
down  the  Valley  and  gaze  upon  some  of  its  matchless  wonders. 
On  this  pilgrimage  it  is  usual  to  recross  the  upper  iron  bridge, 
again  review  many  of  the  scenes  witnessed  on  our  way  to  Mirror 
Lake,  pass  the  Yo  Semite  Fall,  and,  directly  in  front  of  us,  stands 
Eagle  Peak,  three  thousand  eight  hundred  and  eighteen  feet  above 
the  Valley.  As  we,  at  a future  time,  are  to  climb  to  its  exalted 
summit,  we  will,  if  you  please,  only  glance  at  its  sky-piercing 
pinnacle,  and  pass  down  Pine  Avenue  to 

ROCKY  POINT. 

This  is  just  under  the  lowest  shoulder  of  the  “ Three  Broth- 
ers,” and  is  formed  by  large  blocks  of  rocky  talus  that  once 
peeled  from  its  side.  By  the  excellence  of  the  road  made  over  this 
difficult  spot  can  now  be  seen  how  these  huge  masses  had  to  yield 
to  blasting  powder,  human  will  and  muscle,  pulley  blocks,  and 
mule  power,  for  such  results  to  be  accomplished.  F rom  one  part  of 
the  road  here  a magnificent  view  is  obtained  of  the  entire  eastern 
end  of  the  Valley.  Soon  after  crossing  Rocky  Point — a reference 
to  the  tables  will  show  the  distances  traveled — we  arrive  at  and 
examine  the  Indian  Camp  and  its  inmates;  but,  as  the  manners 
and  customs  of  these  really  interesting  people  will  be  given  in  a 
separate  chapter,  further  present  description  will  be  unnecessary. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLE  I 


395 


When  about  a mile  below  the  Indian  Camp,  by  looking  back 
in  a north  easterly  direction,  we  have  an  excellent  view  of 

THE  THREE  BROTHERS. 

By  reference  to  page  67,  it  will  be  seen  that  this  was  so  called 
from  three  brothers,  sons  of  the  old  Indian  Chief  Ten-ie-ya,  who 
were  acting  as  Indian  scouts  during  the  Indian  campaign  of  1851, 
and  were  captured  here.  The  Indian  name  is  Pom-pom-pa-sa, 
which  signifies  “ the  three  mountains  playing  leap-frog,”  and 
which  becomes  suggestive  of  the  Indians’  indulgence  in  that  boy- 


Photo.  by  J.  L.  Weed. 


the  three  brothers  (Highest  3,818  feet  above  Valley). 


396 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


ish  pastime.  But  soon  after  passing  these  we  find  ourselves  in  the 
awe-inspiring  and  over  shadowing  presence  of 

GRAND  OLD  EL  CAPITAN — TU-TOCK-AH-NU-LAH.* 

But  what  finite  mind  can  ever  comprehend  the  marvelous 
massiveness  of  this  monarch  of  mountains — a mighty  fabric  of 
granite  towering  up  three  thousand  three  hundred  feet  in  the 
zenith?  or  who  conceive  the  amplitude,  or  magnitude,  of  three 
thousand  three  hundred  feet  of  vertical  rock  cleavage?  Those 
who  have  seen  the  Palace  Hotel  in  San  Francisco  will  remember 
how  that  structure  overtops  all  contiguous  buildings;  yet,  that 
immense  caravansary  is  but  one  hundred  and  ten  feet  from  the 
sidewalk  to  the  cornice;  therefore,  it  would  require  just  thirty 
Palace  Hotels,  on  top  of  each  other,  to  reach  the  edge  of  El  Capi- 
tan,  above  the  meadow  in  front  of  it.  Then,  supposing  this 
mountain  could  be  laid  along  Montgomery  Street,  San  Francisco, 
it  would  extend  from  Post  Street,  at  the  corner  of  Market,  to 
Broadway,  over  ten  blocks,  including  the  cross  streets.  Trinity 
Church  steeple,  New  York,  is  two  hundred  and  eighty-four  feet 
high;  therefore  it  would  require  eleven  and  a half  of  these  to 
attain  such  an  altitude.  The  statue  on  the  dome  of  the  Capitol 
at  Washington,  D.  C.,  being  three  hundred  and  seven  feet  above 
the  base  of  that  structure,  would  take  ten  and  three-quarters  of 
that  imposing  building,  to  enable  the  lips  of  the  Goddess  of  Liberty, 
on  the  top  of  it,  to  kiss  the  brow  of  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah.  St.  Paul’s 
Cathedral,  at  London,  including  the  dome,  is  three  hundred  and 
sixty-five  feet  above  the  church-yard,  so  that  over  nine  of  those 
would  be  required  to  attain  an  equal  elevation.  St.  Peter’s,  at 
Rome,  four  hundred  and  five  feet  high,  would  need  to  be  over  eight 
times  its  height,  before  the  shoulder  of  its  cross  could  touch  that  of 
El  Capitan.  And,  allowing  the  possibility  of  its  falling  over,  into, 

* “ Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah”  was  to  the  Indians  of  antiquity  a semi-deity  and  chief 
in  whose  i^erson  was  centered  the  double  responsibility  of  head  purveyor  of  creat- 
ure comforts  for  ihe  Ah-wah-nee-chees  upon  earth,  and  the  superintendence  of 
their  enjoyments  in  the  hunting  grounds  of  their  Indian  heaven.  “El  Capitan” 
is  Spanish  for  The  Captain,  a name  given  to  this  bold  jutting  mountain  by  the  Mis- 
sion Indians,  and  which  was  probably  derived  from  their  Spanish  instructors,  the 
priests. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


397 


and  across  the  Valley,  its  grand  old  head  would  lie  on  the  bosom 
of  the  opposite  cliff!  while  forming  a dam  that  would  convert  the 
whole  upper  end  of  the  Valley  into  a lake  exceeding  half  a mile 
in  depth.  Who,  then,  can  fully  comprehend  the  stupendous  mag- 
nitude of  incomparable  El  Capitan? 

It  has  two  immense  faces  exceeding  half  a mile  in  breadth  * 
one  to  the  south  (which  is  said  to  overhang  more  than  one  hun- 
dred feet,  a short  distance  east  of  the  abutting  angle),  upon  Avhich 
Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah,  according  to  the  legend,*  “ carved  the  out- 
lines of  his  noble  head,”  and  whose  portrait  attracts  the  attention 
of  every  curious  passer-by ; and  the  other  face  is  on  the  west  (which 
also  overhangs)  upon  the  top  of  which  is  the  only  place  where 
a human  foot  can  safely  approach  the  edge,  and  from  that  stand- 
point look  into  an  abyss  exceeding  three  thousand  five  hundred 
feet  in  depth.  Well  might  the  Rev.  Thomas  Starr  King,  while 
reverentially  gazing  at  this  marvelous  cliff,  with  deep  emotion 
exclaim,  “ A more  majestic  object  than  this  rock  I never  expect 
to  see  upon  this  planet!” 

Then  it  should  be  remembered  that  the  views  obtained  of  it 
are  generally  from  the  road  about  half  a mile  away;  but  to  feel 
the  unutterable  majesty  of  its  sublime  presence,  the  debris  should 
be  climbed,  and  one’s  back  placed  against  its  overhanging  wall. 
The  small  proportionate  amount  of  debris  lying  at  its  base,  is 
cause  for  thoughtful  musing  as  to  the  why  and  wherefore;  and 
probably  keeps  our  thoughts  ruminatingly  busy  while  reluctantly 
turning  our  faces  away  from  it. 

Emerging  into  the  green  meadow  just  beyond,  the  “ Cathedral 
Group”  of  mountains  strikingly  confronts  us;  and  possibly  invites 
a comparsion  between  those  before  and  that  we  have  just  linger- 
ingly left  behind.  The  excellence  of  the  road,  and  the  scenes  still 
awaiting  us  both  stimulate  and  invite  to  an  increase  in  the  speed 
of  our  horses ; and  in  a few  minutes  we  find  ourselves  on  a straight 
and  elevated  roadway,  beneath  which  numerous  culverts  provide 
for  the  unobstructed  exit  of  the  glinting  waters  of  numerous 

*Page  388. 


398 


IX  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


branches  of  a pebbly  and  bowlder-strewn  stream,  that  has  just 
made  an  unbroken  leap  of  over  two  thousand  feet,  and  which  is 
known  as 

THE  RIBBON  FALL. 

The  Indians  call  this  Lung-oo-too-koo-yah,  or  the  graceful 
and  slender  one ; while  a lady,  whose  name  shall  be  nameless,  once 
christened  it  “ Virgin’s  Tears;  ” but,  when  a matter-of-fact  person 
made  inquiry  for  any  legitimate  reason  why  a virgin  should  weep, 
or,  weeping,  cause  such  floods  of  tears  to  flow,  he  was  thought  to 
possess  as  limited  an  amount  of  idealism  as  Bob  Cratchet,  who, 
according  to  Dickens,  ££  tried  to  warm  himself  at  the  candle;  in 
which  effort,  not  being  a man  of  strong  imagination,  he  failed;” 
and  when  the  same  individual  hazarded  the  casual  remark  that 
££  his  acquaintance  was  exceedingly  limited  with  those  of  the  mas- 
culine gender  who  would  be  likely  to  fall  hopelessly  in  love  with 
any  virgin  that  wept  like  that,”  his  organ  of  ideality  was  con- 
sidered to  be  equivalent  to  the  size  of  a mathematical  point,  which, 
paradoxically  considered,  has  neither  breadth  nor  length,  height  nor 
depth,  except  that  which  is  imaginary ! 

Looking  up  towards  the  rim  of  the  mountain,  a white  stream 
can  be  seen  shooting  out,  at  an  altitude  of  three  thousand  three 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  road;  which,  in  addition  to  its 
great  height,  being  over  a mile  distant,  appears  to  the  eye  to  be 
descending  very  leisurely  and  with  gentle  grace,  the  two  thousand 
one  hundred  feet  of  its  vertical  fall  into  the  basin  beneath  it;  but, 
when  standing  near,  and  almost  underneath  it,  the  rapidity  of  its 
descent  is  remarkable.  The  exceeding  beauty  of  its  lace-like  and 
gauzy  drapery  is  simply  enchanting  in  the  early  spring.  Nearly 
perpendicular,  tower-like  walls,  of  two  thousand  three  hundred  and 
fifty  feet,  frame  a recess  some  three  hundred  feet  deep  from  the  gen- 
eral face  of  the  mountain ; and  which,  beyond  question,  has  been 
cutout  by  the  stream  that  forms  this  lofty  water-fall;  assisted,  of 
course,  by  other  disintegrating  elements.  The  gneiss  which  here 
composes  the  northern  wall  of  the  Valley,  being  very  friable,  its 
constant  Grumblings  have  created  a deposit  of  talus  at  their  base 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


399 


over  thirteen  hundred  feet  in  height,  thus  tending  to  confirm  the 
probability  that  Yo  Semite  was  formed  by  erosive  rather  than 
by  volcanic  agencies. 

Near  the  western  terminus  of  the  straight  stretch  of  carriage 
road  across  the  Ribbon  Fall  streams,  can  even  now  be  distinctly 

seen 

THE  REMAINS  OF  AN  OLD  TERMINAL  MORAINE 

That  at  one  time  extended  entirely  across  the  Valley,  and  formed 
an  immense  dam,  by  which  the  whole  of  the  upper  end  of  the 
Valley  was  converted  into  a lake — possibly  the  most  remarkable 
one  that  ever  existed  upon  earth.  The  height  of  this  moraine- 
built  dam,  when  the  glaciers  carried  it  there,  in  the  fifty  thousands 
or  hundreds  of  thousand  years  ago,  more  or  less,  can  only  be  con- 
jectured ; but  now  its  crest  is  only  about  fifty  feet  above  the  pres- 
ent level  of  the  meadow.  During  some  great  flood  this  lake  must 
have  overflowed,  where  the  Merced  River  now  runs;  and,  tearing 
away  a portion  of  the  moraine,  cut  the  present  channel  of  the 
river;  as  the  rapids  down  which  it  so  impetuously  rushes  are 
strewn  with  glacier-rounded  bowlders.  Standing  upon  the  lower 
iron  bridge — the  floor  of  which,  according  to  the  Wheeler  U.  S. 
Survey,  is  only  nine  feet  lower  than  that  of  the  upper  iron  bridge, 
near  Barnard’s — these  can  readily  be  noted,  and  both  of  the  river- 
cut  ends  of  the  moraine  be  seen. 

As  additional  inductive  data,  suggestive  of  the  upper  end  of 
the  Valley  having  once  been  a lake,  ma}^  be  mentioned  that,  when 
the  new  piece  of  road  was  built  near  the  blacksmith’s  shop,  and 
the  deep  hollow  there  had  to  be  filled  up,  the  material  was  taken 
from  the  adjacent  bank ; where,  underneath  large  blocks  of  granite, 
that  had  peeled  from  off  the  mountain’s  side,  was  an  immense  de- 
posit of  lake  sand , not  less  than  eighteen  feet  in  thickness  or 
depth  above  the  road. 

After  the  cutting  away  of  a portion  of  the  moraine,  as  above 
mentioned,  the  whole  of  the  waters  of  the  lake  must  have  drained 
off,  and  left  the  surfa.ce  of  the  Valley  substantially  as  it  now  is; 
of  course  minus  the  wonderful  plant  life  that  now  adorns  it. 


400 


AV  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


When  the  low  back  of  the  moraine  is  crossed,  on  our  right 
hand  we  pass  the  junction  of  the  Milton  and  Big  Oak  Flat  road 
with  that  of  the  grand  drive  around  the  Valley.  And  but  a short 
distance  beyond  this,  on  the  rocky  banks  of  the  river,  there  is  a 
fine  view  of  a series  of  bounding  cascades,  that  extend,  apparently, 
up  to  the  bluffs  at  the  farther  end,  their  diamond-tipped  waves  curl- 
ing around  moss-covered  bowlders;  and  all  overarched  by  lofty 
trees.  Beyond  this  a glimpse  is  obtained  of  the  ever-graceful 
Bridal  Veil  Fall.  But  on  we  drive,  and  near  a bright  green 
meadow,  margined  by  alders,  and  liberally  adorned  with  wild 
flowers  that  delight  in  moisture,  we  come  to 

THE  BLACK  SPRINGS. 

These  take  their  name  from  the  color  of  the  rich  alluvial 
through  which  the  delightfully  refreshing  waters  of  two  full- 
flowing  cold  springs  hurry  down  a deep-cut  gully  that  crosses 
the  road.  This,  in  appearance,  is  only  one  spring,  while  in  reality 
it  is  formed  of  two,  that  boil  out  from  beneath  a large  flat  rock 
about  a hundred  yards  distant,  on  sides  opposite  to  each  other; 
one  spring  being  chalybeate,  and  the  other  pure  water.  Here 
man  (including  the  ladies)  and  beast  find  refreshing  drink,  and 
generally  pause  to  take  it.  Turning  to  the  left,  just  belowT  this, 
at  a bend  in  the  road,  we  find  the  magnificent 

VALLEY  VIEW  FROM  “ ENCHANTMENT  POINT  ” — TOO-NU-YAH. 

Standing  on  the  western  margin  of  this  beautiful  stream, 
looking  eastward,  with  the  rushing,  gurgling  current  in  the  im- 
mediate foreground,  there  opens  up  before  us  one  of  the  most 
charmingly  impressive  scenes  that  human  eyes  can  look  upon.  On 
the  extreme  left  is  the  Ribbon  Fall,  with  its  broken  yet  massive 
wall;  next  adjoining  comes  glorious  old  El  Capitan;  in  the  far- 
away distance  are  Cloud’s  Rest  and  the  Half  Dome;  then,  The 
Sentinel,  and  Sentinel  Dome;  the  Three  Graces,  flanked  by  the 
darkly  scowling  mountain  over  which  leaps  the  bright-faced 
Bridal  Veil  Fall;  the  whole  forming  a captivating  combination  of 


PHOTO.  BY  S.  C.  WALKER.  PHOTO-TYPO  BY  BRITTON  & REY,  S.  F_ 

Half  Dome  and  Clouds’  Rest,  from  Glacier  Point. 

Men  Standing  on  a Precipice  of  3,257  feet. 

(See  page  469.) 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


401 


majesty  and  loveliness.  T urning  away  from  this  delighting  specta- 
cle the  Pohono  Bridge  is  soon  passed,  and  we  enter  upon  the 

WILDLY  PICTURESQUE  ROAD  TO  THE  CASCADE  FALLS. 

This  is  a portion  of  the  Coulterville  Turnpike,  and  is  con- 
structed on  the  margin  of  the  cliff-walled  and  bowlder-strewn 
canon  of  the  Merced  River,  where  it  makes  its  hurried  exit  from 
the  Valley.  The  many  attractive  forms  of  its  bounding  waters, 
as  they  dash,  and  eddy,  and  surge,  and  swirl  among  and  over 
huge  blocks  of  rock,  with  lofty  and  frowning  bluffs  on  either  side, 
whose  faces  are  fringed  with  trees  and  shrubs,  and  beautified  by 
numerous  rivulets,  that  come  leaping  down  from  ridge  to  ledge,  or 
trickling  through  the  furrows,  and  among  the  wrinkles  of  their 
weather-aged  yet  open  countenances.  And  at  almost  every  stretch 
and  turning  of  this  live  oak  arched  road,  are  wild  flowers  and 
shrubs  in  endless  forms,  combined  with  such  variety  of  coloring 
as  to  make  constant  and  inspiriting  additions  to  our  pleasurable 
ride.  But  the  climax  of  all  these  charming  scenes  comes  when 
we  can  catch  the  first  sight  of 

THE  CASCADE  FALLS. 

These  are  seen  bounding  over  and  adown  the  mighty  crags, 
driving  out  eddies  of  sun-lighted  spray,  that  wave  and  toss  their 
vapory  veils  upon  the  rocks  and  trees  with  such  graceful  abandon 
that  the  eye  never  wearies  in  watching  their  aerial  frolics. 
And  it  is  not  a little  singular  that  these  cascades,  which  are  formed 
from  two  streams,  although  having  their  sources  in  directly  oppo- 
site directions,  join  forces  at  the  verge  of  the  cliff,  and  make  the 
leap  together.  F rom  the  road  to  the  top  of  Cascade  F alls  the  alti- 
tude is  seven  hundred  feet. 

In  order  to  enjoy  this  visit  thoroughly  the  larger  portion  of 
the  day  should  be  devoted  to  it,  fortified  by  a good  lunch,  and 
fishing  tackle;  and,  best  of  all,  genial  and  appreciative  companions. 
At  the  farther  end  of  the  flat,  not  very  far  from  Vulcan’s  Work- 
shop, there  is  a shady  grove  of  California  nutmegs,  and  other 
trees,  that  make  this  a pleasant  picnic  ground. 


402 


IAT  THE  HEART  OE  THE  SIERRAS. 


Returning  we  watch  the  silver-crested  curls  of  the  foaming 
river ; note  its  dark  green  pools,  and  curving  eddies,  and  listen  to 
the  deep  poean  of  its  triumphal  song,  as  it  rushes  on  so  fearlessly, 
I had  almost  said  recklessly,  down  a cataract  of  two  miles,  wherein 
is  a descent,  vertically,  of  five  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  As  the 
ascent  by  the  road  from  Cascade  Falls  to  the  floor  of  the  Yalley 
is  somewhat  of  a tax  upon  the  breath  and  strength  of  the  horses, 
progress  up  it  is  naturally  slower  than  when  going  down,  and 
gives  time  and  opportunity  for  noticing  many  points  that  were 
then  overlooked.  This  is  really  no  small  advantage.  We  soon, 
however,  find  ourselves  on 

THE  POHONO  BRIDGE. 

A casual  glance  at  this  substantial  structure  will  present  an 
example  of  the  strength,  solidity,  and  permanence  with  which  the 
Board  of  Commissioners  are  making  the  necessary  improvements 
about  the  Yalley.  Looking  down. upon  the  swiftly  surging  cur- 
rent below  the  bridge,  or  the  placid  stretch  of  dark  green  water 
above  it,  or  at  its  matchless  mountainous  surroundings,  one  can 
scarcely  refrain  from  exclaiming,  “ What  a glorious  picture  gal- 
lery. Yerily!” 

THE  POHONO  AVENUE  DRIVE. 

The  densely  massed  shadows  of  this  tree-arched  avenue,  which 
we  enter  when  leaving  the  bridge,  become  as  refreshing  as  the 
blossoming  dogwoods,  which  stand  on  either  side,  are  exhilarating; 
and  the  many- voiced,  pi  ant- garnished  Moss  Springs,  and  Fern 
Springs,  gushing  out  at  our  side,  temptingly  invite  us  to  drink  of 
their  transparent  and  ice-tempered  waters.  Still  tasting  them 
retrospectively,  we  emerge  from  an  umbrageous  forest  of  ever- 
greens upon  the  bright,  grassy  Bridal  Yeil  Meadow,  whence  an 
apparently  new  combination  of  scenic  effects  is  everywhere  visi- 
ble. Here,  too,  looking  south westwardly,  we  can  see  the  “Inspi- 
ration Point  ” of  early  days,  when  the  trail  from  Clark’s  neared 
the  very  edge  of  the  precipice,  and  the  first  sight  of  glorious  Yo 
Semite  was  obtained.  Hence,  also,  can  be  seen  “ Mount  Beati- 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLE  I 


403 


tude,”  and  the  sublime  “ Standpoint  of  Silence,”  a spot  first 
brought  to  the  notice  of  visitors  by  Mr.  C.  D.  Robinson,  the  artist. 
After  crossing  another  terminal,  and  passing  an  additional  lateral 
moraine,  we  come  into  full  view  of 

THE  POHONO,  OR  BRIDAL  VEIL  FALL. 

It  is  impossible  to  portray  the  feeling  of  awe,  wonder,  and 
admiration — almost  amounting  to  adoration — that  thrills  our 
very  souls  as  we  look  upon  this  enchanting  scene.  The  grace- 
fully undulating  and  wavy  sheets  of  spray,  that  fall  in  gauze- 
like and  ethereal  folds;  now  expanding,  now  contracting;  now 
glittering  in  the  sunlight,  like  a veil  of  diamonds;  now  changing 


Photo,  by  C.  L Weed 

DISTANT  VIEW  OF  THE  “ POHONO,”  OR  BRIDAL  VEIL  FALL. 


Instantaneous  Photo,  by  Geo.  Fiske.  Heliotype  Co.,  Boston- 

THE  PO-HO-NO,  OR  BRIDAL  VEIL  FALL  (900  feet  high). 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


405 


into  one  vast  and  many-colored  cloud,  that  throws  its  misty 
drapery  over  the  falling  torrent,  as  if  in  very  modesty,  to  veil  its 
unspeakable  beauty  from  our  too  eagerly  admiring  sight. 

In  order  to  see  this  to  the  best  advantage,  the  eye  should  take 
in  only  the  foot  of  the  fall  at  first,  then  a short  section  upward, 
then  higher,  until,  by  degrees,  the  top  is  reached.  In  this  way 
the  majesty  of  the  water-fall  is  more  fully  realized  and  appreciated. 

The  stream  itself — about  forty  feet  in  width — resembles  an 
avalanche  of  watery  rockets,  that  shoots  out  over  the  precipice 
above  you,  at  the  height  of  nearly  nine  hundred  feet,  and  then 
leaps  down,  in  one  unbroken  chain,  to  the  immense  bowlder- 
formed  caldron  beneath,  where  it  surges  and  boils  in  its  angry 
fury;  throwing  up  large  volumes  of  spray,  over  which  the  sun 
builds  two  or  more  magnificent  rainbows  with  which  to  arch  the 
abyss. 

INDIAN  DREAD  OF  PO-HO-NO. 

“Pohono,”  from  whom  the  stream  and  water -fall  received 
their  musical  Indian  name,  is,  according  to  their  traditions  and 
legends,  an  evil  spirit,  whose  breath  becomes  a blighting  and 
fatal  wind ; and  who,  in  consequence,  is,  in  their  apprehension,  as 
much  to  be  dreaded  and  shunned  as  the  simooms  of  an  African 
desert  by  the  Arab.  On  this  account,  should  necessity  require 
them  to  pass  by  it,  they  do  so  with  a reluctance  that  fills  them 
with  actual  distress;  and  they  will,  if  unseen  by  the  whites,  hurry 
past  it  at  the  top  of  their  speed.  To  point  at  this  water-fall 
contemptuously  wdien  traveling  in  the  Valley,  to  their  minds  is 
certain  death.  No  inducement  could  be  offered  sufficiently  large 
to  tempt  them  to  sleep  near ‘it.  In  imagination  they  can  hear  the 
voices  of  those  who  have  passed  into  the  spirit  world,  through  Po- 
hono’s  destroying  breath,  warning  them  ever  to  shun  him  as  the 
worst  of  all  enemies. 

CURIOUS  PHENOMENA. 

Nor  is  this  so  much  to  be  wondered  at  when  for  a moment 
we  pause  to  think  that  their  untutored  minds  have  never  been 
taught,  reasoningly,  to  look  from  effect  to  cause.  They,  therefore, 


406 


IN  TUN  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


see  all  natural  phenomena  through  the  delusive  eyes  of  supersti- 
tion only.  In  this  connection  an  illustrative  and  explanatory 
fact  should  here  be  given : 1 have  passed  this  fall  at  almost  all 
hours  of  the  night,  and  at  nearly  every  season  of  the  year,  and 
for  many  years;  and  there  has  not  been  a dozen  occasions  in  all 
that  time  that  I have  not  experienced  a peculiar  and  strong  wind 
blowing,  within  a given  radius  of  about  half  a mile.  When 
without  that  radius  scarcely  a breath  of  wind  was  notice- 
able ; returning  into  it,  the  same  wind  was  bending  and  swaying 
the  shrubs  and  trees  as  before.  This  has  been  many  times  re- 
peated on  the  same  evening,  and  always  with  the  same  results. 
And  it  is  more  than  probable,  that,  from  this  simple,  natural 
phenomena,  the  Indian’s  imagination  has  created  “ Pohono,” 
and  invested  him  with  a personality  whose  every  attribute  is 
clothed  with  angry  enmity  to  the  Indian  race. 

A PECULIAR  AND  SLIPPERY  MOSS. 

On  the  top  of  the  Pohono  Fall,  moreover,  there  is  a short  and 
densely  textured  moss,  not  more  than  half  an  inch  in  height  or 
thickness,  which  is  as  soft  to  the  tread  as  a Turkey  carpet;  and 
which,  when  dry,  will  enable  any  one  to  go  in  perfect  safety  to 
the  very  brink  of  the  precipice ; but,  if  wet,  it  becomes  as  slippery, 
and  as  difficult  to  stand  upon,  as  ice  that  is  slanting,  so  that  no 
one  need  expect  to  preserve  his  equilibrium  on  that  wet  moss. 
This,  to  the  Indian  apprehension,  has  been  placed  there  by  Pohono 
for  the  purpose  of  tempting  and  entrapping  the  thoughtless  and 
unwary ; and,  as  tradition  has  it,  with  more  or  less  success. 

PO-HO-NO  AS  A MISCHIEVOUS  GHOST. 

Some  Indian  women  that  were  out  gathering  seeds,  were  led 
by  curiosity  to  go  to  the  edge  of  the  fall  to  look  over,  when  it  is 
asserted  that  the  shadowy  and  ghost-like  form  of  Pohono  was  seen 
to  throw  one  of  the  Indian  women  down ; and  the  force  of  the 
current  striking  her  swept  her  helplessly  into  the  abyss  below. 
Seeing  this  the  other  women  hastened  to  the  Indian  camp  as  rap- 
idly as  possible  and  related  the  fearful  story  with  terrible  effect. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


407 


In  the  hopeful  expectation  of  affording  relief  to  the  unfortunate 
one,  as  courage  rose  in  proportion  to  the  numbers  volunteering, 
every  brave  in  camp  was  induced  to  sally  out  to  search  for  the 
hapless  one,  determined  to  rescue  her  from  the  weird-like  clutches 
of  Pohono,  at  any  risk.  But,  although  diligent  search  was  made 
for  her  everywhere,  the  missing  victim  was  never  seen  afterwards; 
and  it  was,  and  is  still,  believed  that  Pohono  spirited  her  away 
bodily  to  some  unknown  pandemonium ; and  is,  moreover,  con- 
stantly seeking  after  others  for  a like  purpose.  Several  Indians 
of  both  sexes  having  lost  their  dives  here,  they  believe  that  this 
stream  is  bewitched  by  Pohono;  and,  consequently,  to  be  both 
dreaded  and  shunned  at  all  times. 

SOURCES  OF  THE  BRIDAL  VEIL  FALL. 

The  creek  which  forms  this  graceful  and  beautiful  fall  derives 
its  principal  source  from  some  large  springs  which  flow  into  a 
crescent-shaped  and  rock-bound  lake  about  thirteen  miles  distant ; 
and  although  this  stream  is  never  entirely  dry,  it  becomes  very 
low  sometimes  near  the  end  of  summer.  In  winter  the  icicles  that 
feather  both  sides  of  the  fall  are  very  attractive,  and  the  masses 
of  ice  that  then  form  here,  in  which  there  are  grotto-like  caves 
roofed  with  icicles,  are  resplendently  dazzling. 

The  bright  rainbows  which  are  built  by  the  setting  sun  on 
the  tops  of  the  eddying  mists  that  roll  out  from  the  seething 
caldron  at  the  base  of  the  Pohono  Fall,  at  all  seasons  of  the  year, 
are  the  most  beautifully  brilliant  between  four  o’clock  and  half 
past  five  in  the  afternoon ; therefore,  the  many  tempting  sights 
elsewhere  should  be  made  somewhat  subordinate  to  this,  if  it  is 
deemed  desirable  that  this  should  be  seen  to  the  best  advantage. 
At  other  times  it  is  simply  an  enchantingly  charming  and  grace- 
ful water-fall ; but,  when  lighted  up  by  brilliant  rainbows,  a halo 
of  glory  seems  to  enshrine  it,  that  makes  it  a delightful  memory 
forever.  Please,  therefore,  to  remember  that  although  the  Bridal 
Veil  Fall  “can  be  seen  ” at  other  times  (in  accordance  with  the 
established  custom  of  society  belles!)  it  “receives”  only  at  the 
time  mentioned. 


408 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


tu-tock-ah-nu-lah’s  citadel. 

The  vertical  and,  at  some  points,  overhanging  mountains  on 
either  side  of  the  Pohono,  possess  almost  as  much  interest  as  the 
fall  itself,  and  add  much  to  the  grandeur  and  magnificence  of 
the  whole  scene.  A tower-shaped  and  leaning  rock,  about  three 
thousand  feet  in  height,  standing  at  the  southwest  side  of  the  fall, 
sometimes  called  the  “ Leaning  Tower,”  nearly  opposite  “ Tu-tock- 
ah-nu-lah,”  has  on  its  top  a number  of  projecting  rocks  that  very 
much  resemble  cannon.  In  order  to  assist  in  perpetuating  the 
beautiful  legend  before  given  concerning  that  Indian  semi-deity, 
we  once  took  the  liberty  of  christening  this  “ Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah’s 
Citadel.” 

THE  “ WAITING  AND  WATCHING”  CHIEF. 

South  of  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah’s  Citadel,  or  the  Leaning  Tower, 
stands  a lofty  point  of  exceeding  prominence,  having  the  form 
and  resemblance  of  a finely  proportioned  human  head.  This,  the 
Indian  traditions  assert,  is  Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah  waiting  in  hopeful 
faith  and  patience  for  the  return  of  the  long  lost  and  deeply 
mourned  Tis-sa-ack,  who  is  still  expected  to  return  and  bless  the 
heart  and  wigwam  of  its  semi-deity  and  greatest  chief,  Tu-tock- 
ah-nu-lah,  with  her  enrapturing  presence. 

The  immense  deposits  of  talus  lying  here,  nearly  a quarter 
of  a mile  wide,  are  deeply  cut  into  and  across  by  three  main 
streams,  through  which  the  whole  of  the  water  from  the  Bridal 
Veil  Fall  impetuously  rushes,  and  forming  other  sources  of  at- 
traction, can  be  pleasantly  witnessed  and  enjoyed  from  the  three 
substantial  bridges  that  span  those  streams. 

After  rounding  the  point  easterly  of  the  Bridal  "Veil  Fall,  al- 
though both  the  Ribbon  Fall  and  El  Capitan  are  immediately  in 
front  of  us,  we  must  not  allow  their  attractive  presence  to  divert 
our  attention  altogether  from  a portion  of  another  moraine,  that 
is  lying  directly  on  our  right ; or,  to  omit  noticing  the  rapids  that 
are  bounding  in  such  frolicsome  glee  over  and  among  the  glacial- 
rounded  bowlders  that  were  washed  from  the  terminal  moraine 


-ya  Canon  and  Surrounding  Mountains. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


409 


before  mentioned,  as  these  continue  to  the  El  Capitan  iron  bridge, 
and  over  these  rapids  trees  have  constructed  an  avenue  of  great 
loveliness. 

VIEW  FROM  THE  EL  CAPITAN  BRIDGE. 

Passing  down  the  Yalley  on  its  northern  side,  and  up  on  its 
southern,  may,  inadvertently,  lead  us  to  overlook  the  view  from 
the  lower  iron,  or  El  Capitan  bridge.  This  would  be  an  unde- 
sirable oversight,  inasmuch  as,  in  addition  to  the  river  ends  of  the 
terminal  moraine,  which  it  is  thought  once  converted  the  upper 
end  of  the  Y alley  into  a lake,  and  which  are  so  plainly  visible  here, 
a magnificent  view  is  presented  when  looking  eastwardly  not  only 
of  the  Merced  River  in  the  foreground,  but  of  Cloud’s  Rest,  ten 
miles  away,  in  the  far-off  distance.  This  name  of  “Cloud’s  Rest” 
is  derived  from  the  interesting  fact  that  clouds  are  frequently 
resting  upon  this  mountain  when  there  is  not  another  cloud  visible 
anywhere  else  upon  the  whole  vaulted  firmament.  Looking  west 
another  view  of  the  rapids,  and  of  the  tree-vista  inclosing  them, 
can  be  obtained.  After  crossing  the  bridge  and  returning  to  the 
southern  side,  up  which  we  are  supposed  to  be  traveling,  we  come 
to  the 

CATHEDRAL  SPIRES, 

Two  very  noticeable  and  remarkable  formations;  towering  up 
as  they  do  on  our  right,  alone,  and  unsupported  by  any  con- 
tiguous mountain  for  over  seven  hundred  feet  above  their  base, 
like  two  immense  cathedral  spires,  suggested  the  appropriate 
name.  The  Indians  call  them  Poo-see-nah  Chuck-ka,  on  account 
of  their  resemblance  to  the  acorn  store  baskets  of  that  people. 
According  to  the  Wheeler  U.  S.  Survey  the  most  southerly  one  is 
two  thousand  six  hundred  and  seventy-eight  feet  above  the  road; 
and  that  northerly  two  thousand  five  hundred  and  seven ty-nine 
feet. 

On  one  occasion  (October  6, 1877),  the  writer,  with  Mr.  S.  C. 
Walker,  the  photographer,  accompanied  by  two  Indians  as  pack- 
ers, carried  photographic  apparatus,  and  worked  our  way  up  the 

rock-strewn  gorge  lying  at  the  base  of  these  spires,  to  the  sag  or 
27 


Photo,  by  Geo.  Fiske 


Heliotype  Eng.  Co.,  Boston. 


MERCED  RIVER  VIEW  FROM  EL  CAPITAN  BRIDGE. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


411 


hollow  between  the  two  highest  of  the  “Three  Graces,”  for  its 
view.  And  it  was  a view,  par  excellence.  The  deep- cut,  darkly 
frowning,  and  almost  vertically-walled  gorge  up  which  we  climbed 
was  full  of  large  and  lofty  sugar  pines,  firs,  cedars,  and  spruces 
that  were  growing  among  huge  blocks  of  granite  that  had  at 
some  time  peeled  from  off  the  sides  of  the  gorge,  and,  being  scat- 
tered everywhere,  made  the  climb  anything  but  easy.  But,  when 
once  there,  I believe  it  no  exaggeration,  or  dreamy  hyperbole,  not 
only  to  assert  but  to  affirm,  that  from  what  scenes  I have  person- 
ally witnessed  in  many  lands,  and  from  other  individuals  have 
heard,  as  well  as  from  the  illustrations  and  descriptions  that  have 
been  published,  I am  convinced  that  this  is  probably 

ONE  OF  THE  MOST  SUBLIMELY  IMPRESSIVE  VIEWS  ON  EARTH. 

I am  aware  that  this  is  saying  much.  I am  also  aware  that 
to  those  who  do  not  know  me  it  will  be  received  with  many  grains 
of  qualifying  allowance;  but,  I nevertheless  present  it  as  the  con- 
viction of  my  unprejudiced  judgment  to  be  an  actual,  positive,  and 
undeniable  fact,  and  one  to  be  verified  the  moment  the  Board  of 
Commissioners  shall  have  made  the  ascent  possible  by  a good  trail. 
To  describe  such  a scene,  therefore,  would  be  simply  impossible,  so* 
I will  merely  outline  the  principal  points  seen  from  thence.  And, 
first  to  be  mentioned,  are  the  Cathedral  Spires  themselves,  which 
are  not  only  to  be  seen  with  their  rocky  needles  standing  boldly 
out  from  and  above  the  mountain  of  which  they  form  a part,  but 
their  entire  masonry  is  visible  from  apex  to  base,  a height  of  seven- 
teen hundred  feet;  and  which  is  apparently  as  true  as  though 
built  by  a plummet  board,  adjusted  to  an  angle  of  say  eighty-five 
degrees,  or  only  five  degrees  from  the  perpendicular.  While,  on 
the  other  side  is  a perfect  wall,  standing  at  almost  as  steep  an 
angle  as  the  spires,  and  yet  reaching  to  the  foreground  of  the 
picture. 

Deep  down  the  narrow,  tree-darkened  hollow  that  is  bounded 
by  these  walls,  and  over  the  tops  of  the  trees,  two  thousand  nine 
hundred  feet  below  lies  the  Valley,  the  sheen  of  its  serpentine 


412 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


river  sparkling  glintingly  among  the  trees,  with  its  meadows  and 
pools,  and  gardens,  and  buildings  there  before  one.  All  the  north- 
ern rim  of  the  Valley,  with  the  Yo  Semite  Fall,  North  Dome, 
Royal  Arches,  Washington  Tower,  Mirror  Lake,  Mt.  Watkins, 
and  the  whole  distance  up  Ten-ie-ya  Canon,  and  the  trail  to 
Glacier  Point,  lie  directly  visible  on  our  left;  while  over  the 
shoulder  whence  spring  the  “ Spires,”  Cloud’s  Rest,  The  Sentinel, 
Sentinel  Dome,  Profile,  or  Fissure,  Mountain,  can  be  seen;  and  in 
the  far-off  distance  stands  Ten-ie-ya,  Monastery,  Cathedral,  Echo, 
Temple,  Unicorn,  and  other  peaks,  stretching  to  the  very  crest  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains.  To  those  who  can  imagine  -what 
a picture  could  be  when  filled  in  by  vertical  precipices,  and  jut- 
ting or  overhanging  cliffs ; the  distance  draped  with  ethereal  haze ; 
and  the  whole  heightened  by  the  magical  effects  of  light  and  shade, 
it  would  seem  almost  impossible  that  such  a scene  could  be  over- 
drawn; or  the  statement  questioned  that  this  is  one  of  the  most 
sublimely  impressive  views  on  earth. 

Returning  in  imagination  to  the  Valley  again,  and  still 
advancing  up  its  southern  side,  we  can  see  other  wild  and  weird- 
like peaks  and  rents  in  the  mountain’s  face,  and  among  the  niches 
of  every  cliff,  so  that  it  is  not  this  or  that  particular  rock,  or 
chasm  only,  that  attracts  so  much,  but  the  infinite  and  ever- 
changing  variety  of  all.  Among  these,  however,  one  point  stands 
out  somewhat  prominently,  known  as 

PROFILE,  OR  FISSURE,  MOUNTAIN. 

The  first  appellation  comes  from  the  many  faces  that  can  be 
distinctly  traced  upon  its  northeastern  edge  at  almost  any  hour 
of  the  day,  but  the  afternoon’s  light  streaming  in  between  the 
points  defines  them  strongest  It  is  in  this  crag,  moreover,  that 
the  fissure  (described  on  page  344)  cuts  so  deep  a crevice.  The 
crown  of  this  bluff  is  nearly  three  hundred  feet  higher  than  any 
of  its  illustrious  compeers  in  this  immediate  vicinity,  and  its 
vertical  depth  greater  than  all,  if  we  except  El  Capitan.  The 
view  from  it,  therefore,  is  very  fine.  A little  northerly  of  this 


413 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 

is  a light-colored  spot,  whence,  in  1857,  a chip  fell,  the  debris 
from  which  was  said  to  cover  over  thirty  acres.  But  as  we  keep 
advancing  there  is  one  strikingly  prominent  mountain  before  us, 
and  one  that  seems  to  have  been  in  front  of  us  for  miles.  It  is 
“ The  Sentinel,”  and  near  to  it  the  Sentinel  Cascades,  and  as  they 
are  in  such  close  proximity  we  will,  if  you  please,  take  a brief 
glance  at  both 

THE  SENTINEL,  AND  SENTINEL  CASCADES. 

Although  the  former  has  been  the  most  conspicuous  for  some 


Drawn  by  Thos.  Moran: 

the  sentinel  (3,069  feet  above  the  Valley). 


414 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


time,  let  us  look  first  at  the  two  leaping  cascades,  as  they  shoot 
down  from  the  ragged-edged  crest,  three  thousand  four  hundred 
feet  above  us.  When  these  are  fullest,  their  picturesque  effect  is 
simply  marvelous;  and  when  their  volume  is  less,  the  foaming- 
whiteness  is  merely  changed  to  diamond  brightness,  and  they  are 
always  beautiful. 

The  “Sentinel”  is  the  great  central  landmark  of  the  Valley; 
and,  whether  draped  in  belts  of  cloud,  or  gilded  by  a golden  sunset, 
its  isolated  prominence  is  ever  imposingly  magnificent.  Looking 
at  it  from  the  objective  point  whence  Mr.  Moran’s  sketch  was  taken, 
or  Mr.  Fiske’s  photograph,  its  front  resembles  an  obelisk,  or  the 
tower  of  some  vast  cathedral,  of  which  it  forms  a part.  Its  face 
is  almost  vertical  for  nearly  two  thousand  feefr.  It  is  said  that 
the  Indians  once  used  this  not  only  as  a watch-tower,  but  as  a 
signal  station,  on  all  important  occasions.  They  call  it  Loya. 

Now  although  the  climb  to  its  summit  is  both  difficult  and 
dangerous,  one  lady — and  one  only  (Mrs.  Geo.  B.  Bayley,  of  Oak- 
land, California) — has  undertaken  the  task,  and  with  her 
husband,  has  stood  upon  its  highest  point;  and  there  placed  a 
white  flag,  that  remained  until  it  had  been  waved  into  shreds. 

Soon  we  cross  the  streams  that  have  formed  the  Sentinel 
Cascades;  stop  at,  or  pass,  Leidig’s  Hotel,  Fiske’s  photographic 
gallery,  Yo  Semite  chapel,  Galen  Clark’s  residence,  Cook’s  bath 
house,  Coffman  & Kenney’s  livery  stable,  Cook’s  Hotel,  and  Mr. 
Thomas  Hill’s  studio — with  the  Yo  Semite  Falls  and  Eagle  Peak 
nearly  all  the  time  in  sight.  Between  Cook’s  and  Barnard’s 
hotels  there  is  a stretch  of  tree-arched  road,  bordered  on  the  right 
by  a frowning  bluff,  upon  the  side  and  shoulder  of  which  are 
unmistakable  evidences  of  the  attrition  caused  by  the  passage 
down  of  the  old-time  glaciers,  that  once  filled  this  Valley 
with  ice.  Beyond  this  we  arrive  at  the  store,  Mrs.  Gtynn’s,  the 
butcher’s  and  blacksmith’s  shops,  Mrs.  F agersteen’s  photograph 
rooms,  Sinning’s  cabinet  shop,  the  Guardian’s  office,  Mr.  C.  D. 
Robinson’s  studio,  and  then  Barnard’s,  a mile  beyond  which  is 
the  new  hotel. 


Photo,  by  Geo.  Fiske. 


Heliotyp 

THE  SENTINEL  CASTING  REFLECTIONS, 


CHAPTER  XXIV 


MANNEKS  AND  CUSTOMS  OF  THE  INDIANS. 


I would  not  enter  on  my  list  of  friends 

(Though  graced  with  polish’d  manners  and  fine  sense, 

Yet  wanting  sensibility)  the  man 
Who  needlessly  sets  foot  upon  a worm. 

— Cowper’s  Task,  Bk.  VI. 


To  tell  men  that  they  cannot  help  themselves  is  to  fling  them  into  reckless- 
ness and  despair. 

— Frottd’s  Short  Studies  on  Great  Subjects. 


Be  noble!  and  the  nobleness  that  lies 
In  other  men,  sleeping,  but  never  dead, 

Will  rise  in  majesty  to  meet  thine  own. 

— Lowell’s  Sonnet , IV. 


Shortly  after  taking  up  our  permanent  residence  in  Yo  Sem- 
ite an  Indian  presented  himself  one  morning,  when  the  following 
colloquy  ensued: — 

“You  li-kee  Indian  man  wor-kee?  ” “ Are  you  a good  worker  V* 
“You  no  li-kee  me,  you  no  kee-pee  me,  sab-be  (understand)?  ” 
“Well!  that  seems  fair  enough.  How  much-e  you  want,  you 
work-e  one  day?”  “One  dol-lar  I tink  wa-no  (good).”  “All 
right.  What’s  your  name?”  “Tom.”  “Well,  Tom,  you  come 
work-e  to-morrow  morning;  sa-be,  c to-morrow  ’ morning?  ” “Seh 
(Si,  in  Spanish),  me  sab-be.”  “Seven  o’clock?”  “Seh,  me 
sab-be.”  “You  better  come  before  seven,  Tom,  then  you  get- 
tee  good  breakfast;  Indian  man  work-e  better,  he  eat-ee  good 
breakfast.” 

At  this  latter  proposition  Tom’s  somewhat  somber  face  lighted 
up  with  a glow  of  child-like  pleasure;  and,  when  the  following 
morning  came,  he  was  on  hand  both  for  his  meal  and  labor 
also.  Finding  him  to  be  the  most  faithful  Indian  worker  that  I 
(416) 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


417 


had  ever  seen — for,  as  a rule,  Indians  do  not  take  kindly  to  steady 
labor — after  some  ten  or  twelve  days,  as  we  were  becoming  short 
of  desirable  articles  for  the  household,  and  our  packer  was  unwell, 
questions  were  put  and  answered  thus : “Tom,  you  sa-be  packing  ?” 
“ Po-co  ” (little).  “ You  sa-be  Big  Oak  Flat,  Tom?  ” “ Seh.  Me 
sab-be  Big  Oak  Flat.”  “ You  li-kee  go  Big  Oak  Flat,  get-tee  me 
some  sugar,  some  flour,  and  such  things?  ” “You  li-kee  me  go,  I 
go.”  - “All  right,  Tom,  you  get-tee  five  horses — sa-be  ‘five’” 
(counting  the  number  on  my  fingers).  “Seh.  Me  sab-be,”  “Four 
you  pack,  one  you  ride,  sa-be?  ” “ Seh.  Me  sab-be.” 

Promptly  at  seven  o’clock  Tom  was  on  hand,  with  the  horses; 
when  I handed  him  a letter,  and  explained  to  him  that  that  paper 
would  tell  the  store-keeper  at  the  settlements  the  kind  and  quan- 
tity of  articles  wanted,  and  which  would  be  handed  to  him  for 
packing  nicely,  and  bringing  safely  to  us.  Then,  laying  five 
$20  pieces,  one  by  one,  upon  the  palm  of  his  hand,  I said  to 
him,  “ Tom,  you  ta-kee  these  five  $20  pieces  to  Mr.  Murphy, 
store-keeper,  at  Big  Oak  Flat  (as  Mr.  Murphy  no  sa-be  me),  and 
they  will  pay  for  what  he  give  you  to  bring  us.”  “ Seh.  Me 
sab-be.”  Tom’s  eyes  sought  mine  with  bewildering  yet  gratified 
astonishment  (while  they  filled  with,  tears) ; as  though  apparently 
questioning  the  possibility  that  I could  trust  him,  an  Indian, 
with  five  horses,  and  as  many  $20  pieces.  He  seemed  to  have 
suddenly  grown  several  inches  taller,  and  more  erect  than  I had 
ever  seen  him;  as  with  an  open  and  manly  look  he  slowly  re- 
sponded, “ Wa-no.  Me  go.  Me  ta-kee  money.  Me  pack-ee  suga.r 
— flour,  here.” 

When  Tom  returned  with  everything  perfectly  straight,  and 
in  good  order,  he  was  evidently  as  proud  and  delighted  as  a New 
foundland  (or  any  other)  dog  could  have  been  with  two  tails. 
His  face  had  a smile  all  over  it — an  uncommon  sight  in  an  Indian. 
From  that  time  Tom  was  not  only  my  friend,  but  a friend  to 
every  member  of  the  family;  and  he  took  as  much  interest  in 
everything  as  though  it  was  his  own.  The  confidence  reposed  in 
him  had  completely  conquered  the  Indian , by  making  him  to  feel 
that  he  was  a man. 


418 


IR  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


A few  weeks  after  this  he  wanted  to  pay  a visit  to  his  people, 
whose  camp  was  some  forty  miles  below;  and,  as  he  said,  “eat-ee 
some  acorn  blead  {bread,  as  they  seldom  sound  the  r)  and  go  hab 
fandango  ” (Indian  dance).  It  may  be  cause  for  wonder  that  the 
best  of  good  food,  when  provided  and  cooked  by  white  people,  is 
only  satisfactory  for  a time,  to  the  Indian;  he  longs  (not  for 
“the  flesh-pots  of  Egypt,”  perhaps,  but)  for  “acorn  blead.”  It  is 
an  apparent  physical  necessity  to  him. 

how  tom’s  life  was  once  saved. 

Upon  Tom’s  return  an  almost  uncontrollable  excitement 
seemed  to  quiver  through  his  whole  frame,  while  the  perspiration 
exuded  from  his  hair,  and  rolled  down  his  somber  face  in  streams. 
Breathlessly  sinking  upon  a chair,  a wild,  agonizing  frenzy,  dis- 
torting every  muscle  of  his  features;  while  gleams  of  fire  seem 
ingly  shot  from  both  his  eyes,  as  soon  as  his  lungs  could  perform 
their  office,  and  his  tongue  and  voice  could  find  utterance,  he 
gasped  out,  “Oh!  Mr.  H.,  Mr.  H.,  Indian  men  come  kill-ee  me.” 
“ Hullo ! Tom,  what  on  earth  have  you  been  doing,  that  Indians 
should  want  to  kill  you  ? ” Gathering  breath  and  effort  gradually, 
yet  simultaneously,  he  exclaimed,  “ Oh ! Indian  man  say  I kill-ee 
one  Indian ; I no  kill-ee  Indian  man,  Indian  man  kill-ee  Big  Mead- 
ows— I no  go  Big  Meadows — I go  Bull  Creek.  They  tink  I 
kill-ee  him,  though,  and  Indian  men — five  (counting  on  his  fingers) 
— come  kill-ee  me.”  “ Are  you  sure,  Tom,  you  no  kill-ee  Indian 
man?  ” “I  sure  I no  kill-ee  Indian.  How  I kill-ee  Indian  man 
Big  Meadows- — I no  go  Big  Meadows?  I sure  I no  kill-ee  him. 
You  hi-de  me  somewhere?”  “You  sure  you  no  kill-ee  Indian 
man,  Tom,  eh?  ” “I  sure  I no  kill-ee  him.”  “All  right,  Tom, 
then  I hide  you  somewhere.” 

This  had  been  successfully  accomplished  but  about  twenty 
minutes  when  up  came  the  five  Indians  mentioned  by  Tom, 
“armed  to  the  teeth,”  as  the  saying  is,  sweating,  and  almost  out 
of  breath;  when  one  of  them  inquired,  in  pretty  good  English, 
“ Have  you  seen  Indian  Tom?  ” “ Oh!  yes,  Tom  was  here  about 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


419 


half  an  hour  ago.  Is  there  anything  the  matter?  ” £ Yes,  Tom 

killed  an  Indian  at  Big  Meadows.”  “ Yes?  Why,  Tom  told  me 
he  did  not  kill  the  Indian  at  Big  Meadows;  he  said  that  some 
Indians  thought  so,  but  that  he  was  not  at  the  Big  Meadows — • 
he  went  only  to  Bull  Creek.”  “ Yes.  Tom  killed  an  Indian 
man  at  Big  Meadows;  and  if  we  find  Tom  we  shall  kill  him. 
That  is  Indian  fashion.”  “ But,  Tom  told  me  that  he  did  not  go 
to  the  Big  Meadows,  and  did  not  kill  the  Indian  there ; and  if  you 
kill  Tom,  and  Tom  did  not  kill  the  Indian,  as  you  say,  then  the 
Sheriff  of  Mariposa  wdll  take  you  to  jail,  and  by  and  by  they  will 
hang  you,  as  they  ought  to  do,  if  you  kill  an  innocent  man.  You 
Indian  men  too  fast,  and  too  hot.  You  cool  down  a little.  Then, 
when  you  find  the  man  who  did  kill  the  Indian,  have  him  taken 
to  Mariposa;  and  if  found  guilty  they  will  hang  him  and  save 
you  all  the  trouble.  You  take  my  advice,  and  don’t  kill  any 
man,  especially  when  he  may  be  entirely  innocent  of  the  crime 
with  which  you  charge  him.” 

Although  they  took  reluctant  departure  for  the  present,  they 
evidently  thought  that  Tom  was  not  far  away;  as  they  were  fre- 
quently seen  near,  and  upon  the  lookout.  In  about  three  days 
after  their  first  appearance  they  absented  themselves,  and  nothing 
more  was  seen  of  any  Indian  for  over  a week;  when  two  Indian 
women  came  to  me  and  asked  if  Indian  Tom  had  been  there.  I 
replied  that  he  had — about  a week  ago.  “ So,”  I suggested,  as 
though  questioning  the  truth  of  Tom’s  relation,  “ so  Tom  killed 
an  Indian  at  Big  Meadows,  eh?”  "No,  no,  no;  Tom  no  kill-lee 
Indian  Big  Meadows.  Two  Indian  men  see  Sam  Wells  kill-lee 
Indian  at  Big  Meadows — Tom  no  kill-lee  him.”  “ Then  if  I see 
Tom  I am  to  tell  him  that,,  eh?”  “Yes,  yes,  I Tom’s  wife.” 
“Oh!  that  is  the  way  the  land  lies  is  it?  All  right,  if  I see 
Tom  I tell-lee  him.” 

Tom  was  soon  seen,  and  the  case  stated,  when  he  wished  me 
to  invite  them  over.  Asking  them  if  they  were  not  hungry  (and 
it  was  a rare  sight  to  see  an  Indian  that  was  not),  and  receiving 
.an  affirmative  answer,  they  were  soon  eating  where  Tom  could 


420 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


catch  sight  of  them  without  being  seen ; and  in  a few  minutes 
afterwards  they  were  all  walking  happily  together  in  the  bright 
sunshine  as  fearlessly  free  and  as  happy  as  children. 

When  the  would-be-avenging  Indians  made  their  reappear- 
ance a few  days  subsequent  to  this  denouement , they  acknowledged, 
though  somewhat  reluctantly,  that  Tom  was  proven  to  be  entirely 
innocent  of  the  crime ; as  two  other  Indians  had  seen  the  murder 
committed  by  another  man,  whose  resemblance  to  Tom  had  caused 
the  mistaken  identity,  that  would  have  cost  the  innocent  man  his 
life,  had  they  found  him  at  the  time  of  their  impetuous  search. 

HIS  GRATEFUL  RETURN  THEREFOR. 


This  thrilling  incident  very  naturally  made  Tom’s  heart  warm 
kindly  and  strongly  to- 
wards the  one  who  had 
afforded  him  such  timely 
succor  in  the  hour  of  his 
extreme  need ; and  there 
can  bs  but  little  doubt 
that  his  unwearying  de- 
votion and  faithful  serv- 
ices thereafter,  in  the 
best  interests  of  all  our 
family,  were  cause  of 
many  mysterious  ques- 
tionings among  those 
to  whom  the  secret  was 
unrevealed.  The  asser- 
tion,  therefore,  that 
gratitude  is  an  absent 
guest  to  every  Indian’s 
heart,  is  not  true.  This 
heavenly  quality  welled 
up,  bounteously,  not 
grudgingly,  in  Tom’s 
heart,  and  flowed  peren- 


TEE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


42] 


nially  in  kindly  actions ; and  that,  too,  while  unsealing  the  fountain 
of  his  lips.  Tom  had  succeeded  in  conquering  the  natural  reti- 
cence of  his  race ; and  it  is  to  this  that  1 am  so  largely  indebted 
for  many  interesting  facts  concerning  it,  that  are  embraced  in  this 
chapter.  I,  therefore,  with  pleasure  introduce 

INDIAN  TOM. 

Owing  to  his  many  years  of  faithful  service  in  our  family,  all 
of  the  other  Indians  (there  being  many  “ Tom’s  ”)  called  him 
“Tom  Hutchings!  ” and  as  he  so  calls  himself  he  evidently  can- 
not be  ashamed  of  it.  Tom  does  not  claim  to  be  a full  Yo 
Semite  Indian ; inasmuch  as,  although  his  mother  belonged  to  that 
tribe,  his  father  was  a Mono  (Pah-uta).  After  this,  I trust  not 
uninteresting,  introduction,  please  allow  me  to  present  a few  facts 
concerning 


THE  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS  OF  THE  INDIANS. 

The  Indian  Camp,  and  its  People — Probable  Numbers — Physical  Charac- 
teristics— Acorns  their  Staple  Breadstuff,  How  Prepared  and  Cooked 
— Kitchavi — Pine  Nuts — Esculent  Plants — Crass  and  Other  Seeds — 
Wild  Fruits — Fish — Came — Miscellaneous  Edibles. 

I have  learned 

To  look  on  Nature,  hearing  oftentimes 
The  still,  sad  music  of  humanity; 

Not  harsh  nor  grating,  though  of  ample  power 

To  chasten  and  subdue.  — Wordsworth. 

One  of  the  many  attractive  features  of  Yo  Semite  is  the  In- 
dian camp,  and  its  interesting  people — the  original  owners  and 
first  settlers.  Deplorable  as  the  fact  may  be,  however,  there  are 
less  than  twenty  living  of  a tribe  that,  in  1851,  numbered  nearly 
five  hundred.*  The  remnant  being  representative  of  the  prin- 
cipal customs,  occupations,  manner  of  living,  habits  of  thought, 
traditions,  legends,  and  systems  of  belief,  not  only  of  their  own 
people  and  the  surrounding  tribes,  but  of  the  California  Indians 
generally,  a visit  to  their  village,  and  a sight  of  its  inhabitants,  will 


The  causes  of  this  astonishing  decrease  are  mainly  given  on  pages  77,  78. 


422  TJY  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 

be  the  more  inviting  and  instructive.  Before  presenting  our- 
selves at 

THE  INDIAN  CAMP, 

As  we  would  not  willingly  do  them  even  an  unintentional  in- 
justice, let  us  not  forget  that  they  have  always  been  nomadic,  and 
have  continuously  camped  out;  that  any  appearance  suggestive 
of  untidiness  is  to  be  attributed  more  to  circumstances  than  to  men- 
tal antagonism  to  a higher  social  standard.  They  have  no  neatly 
furnished  private  apartments  to  which  they  can  retire,  and  culti- 
vate the  attractive  mysteries  of  the  toilet.  Like  people  of  good 
common  sense  they  accept  their  position,  and  make  the  best  of  it. 
Even  among  our  own  friends,  those  who  have  sought  the  exhilarat- 
ing elixir  of  mountain  air,  or  rambled  far  from  human  habitations 
in  pathless  forests,  to  luxuriate  upon  the  sublime  or  beautiful, 
know  how  difficult  it  is,  at  such  a time,  to  keep  comfortably  dean. 
It  was  an  abstruse  problem  to  Mark  Twain,  you  remember,  who 
had  passed  through  sundry  such  experiences,  to  solve  the  possibil- 
ity of  the  Israelites  keeping  half-way  clean  while  “ camping  out  ” 
forty  years  in  the  “ Wilderness  ” ! And  the  Indians  have  probably 
discovered,  that  necessity  has  compelled  this  for  more  than  as 
many  generations.  With  these  preliminary  suggestions,  let  us 
now  seek  their  picturesque  habitations. 

Their  principal  location  is  just  below  the  old,  or  £*  Folsom  ” 
Bridge,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Valley,  about  half  a mile  westerly 
of  Leidig’s  Hotel.  The  usual  and  most  enjoyable  manner  and 
time  of  visiting*  them  is  during  the  afternoon  drive,  described  else- 
wffiere.  Just  before  reaching  their  encampment,  some  singular 
structures,  built  upon  posts,  arrest  our  attention.  These  are 

THE  ACORN  STORE  BASKETS, 

The  platforms  of  which  are  about  four  feet  from  the  ground. 
They  are  generally  twelve  feet  in  height,  and  three  and  a half 
feet  in  diameter.  The  sides  are  formed  of  bushes,  interlaced  and 
covered  with  pine  boughs,  inverted ; the  needles  of  which  prevent 
squirrels  from  climbing  up,  yet  conduct  the  rain  down,  and  to  the 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


423 


INDIAN  WOMAN  GATHERING  ACORNS. 


outside  of  the  basket.  The  top  is  roofed  by  pieces  of  pine  bark, 
cloth,  or  other  material,  securely  fastened  to  the  sides.  The  cen- 
ter of  these  rude  contrivances  being  hollow,  acorns  are  safely 
stored  therein.  These  are  called  by  the  Indians  poo-see-na 
chuck-lca. 

ACORNS  FORM  THE  STAPLE  FOOD  FOR  INDIANS, 

Not  only  in  and  around  Yo  Semite,  but  through  all  the  mount- 
ain  districts  of  the  State.  Nor  is  this  peculiarity  confined  to 
those  dwelling  west  of  the  great  chain  of  the  Sierras,  inasmuch 
as  those  upon  the  eastern  slope  embrace  the  opportunity  of  sup- 
plementing any  lack  in  pinons,  or  pine  nuts  ( Pinus  monophylla ), 
which  constitute  their  principal  article  of  diet  there,  for  acorns; 
oaks  being  almost  unknown  on  that  side  of  the  mountains.  It 
is  a fortunate  or  providential  coincidence,  too,  that  whenever  the 


424 


IN'  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


pinon  crop  fails  on  the  eastern  slope,  acorns  are  generally  abun- 
dant on  the  western,  and  vice  versa.  It  is  not  an  unusual  sight  at 
Yo  Semite  for  a single  file — and  all  travel  single  file — of  Mono 
Indians  (a  branch  of  the  Pah-utas,  commqnly  called  Pi-utes), 
numbering  from  twenty  to  fifty,  of  almost  all  ages,  and  of  both 
sexes,  to  pass  along  the  Yalley.  They  come  for  acorns,  mainly. 
Nor  do  they  come  empty-handed,  as  the  conical  baskets,  and  dis- 
colored sacks,  at  the  backs  of  their  females,  abundantly  prove; 
for  they  are  loaded  down  with  pinons,  Kit-chavi,  and  other  articles, 
as  presents,  or  for  exchange.  About  the  Kit-chavi  there  is  more 
to  be  said  hereafter. 

The  little  group  of  huts,  constructed  of  cedar  bark  set  on 
end,  being  the  Indian  camp,  let  us  advance  towards  it  somewhat 
reservedly,  as  a rude  intruder  is  never  welcome;  and  it  requires 
quite  an  effort  on  their  part  to  conquer  their  unpretentious  diffi- 
dence and  natural  modesty.  Remember  this.  After  the  quiet 
smile  of  welcome  is  given,  a glance  around  will  reveal  to  us  that 
the  women  are  all  busy  and  fully  occupied.  Like  many  other 
housekeepers,  their  work  seems  never  done.  This  one  is  skillfully 
plying  her  nimble  fingers  upon  a water-tight  basket ; that,  in  deftly 
arranging  the  f rame-work  of  one  of  another  kind ; as  these  people 
still  rely  entirely  upon  themselves  for  all  such  articles,  notwith- 
standing the  manifold  contrivances  brought  within  their  reach  by 
civilization.  The  woman  at  our  left  has  evidently  caught  up  the 
spirit  of  her  more  favored  sisters,  and  is  adroitly  arranging  the 
parts  of  a bright  calico  dress  (nearly  all  Indians  revel  in  bright 
colors);  that,  in  repairing  or  turning  one.  Old  habits  are  steadily, 
yet  noticeably,  passing  away,  and  new — may  we  not  devoutly  hope 
better — ones  are  taking  their  places.  That  female  with  a shallow 
basket  at  her  side,  half  filled  with  acorns,  is  dexterously  preparing 
them  for  to-morrow’s  meal,  by  speedily  setting  each  particular  acorn 
on  end,  and  with  a light  tap  from  a small  pebble  separating  the  husk 
from  the  kernel.  Thus  freed  and  cleaned,  they  are  next  spread 
upon  a rock  to  dry.  As  these  are  to  be  fittingly  prepared  for 
human  food,  it  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  trace  the  different 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


425 


processes  by  which  this  is  successfully  accomplished.  First,  then, 

THE  GRINDING. 

The  morning  meal  being  satisfactorily  disposed  of,  nearly 

every  available  female  in 
camp,  each  carrying  her  load, 
trudges  off  to  an  adjacent  rock 
that  is  capacious,  smooth,  as 
nearly  horizontal  in  position 
as  possible,  and  in  which  sun- 
dry mortar-like  holes  are 
worn.  This  being  protected 
from  the  scorching  sun — and 
human  eyes — by  bushes,  or 
young  pine  trees,  each  worker 
takes  her  seat  near  the  mor- 
tar ; then,  armed  with  a rock- 
pestle,  weighing  from  six  to 
ten  pounds,  the  toilsome  labor 
of  grinding  acorns  into  meal 
commences,  by  pounding 
them.  This  process  is  neces- 
sarily very  slow.  By  this 
primitive  method  grass  and 
other  seeds  are  also  ground 
into  flour  or  meal. 

When  the  acorns  thus  pulverized  are  about  the  fineness  of 
ordinary  corn  meal,  as  the  acorn  flour  needs  to  be  relieved  of  its. 
bitter  tannin  to  prevent  constipation,  it  is  carried  to  the  nearest 
stream  where  there  is  an  abundance  of  clean  white  sand , in  which 
a hollow  is  scooped,  about  three  feet  in  width,  by  six  inches  in 
depth,  and  which  is  patted  evenly  and  compactly  down,  prepara- 
tory to  a continuation  of  the  intended  process.  Meanwhile  other 
Indians  have  been  building  a fire,  and  almost  covering  it  with 

roundish  rocks  from  four  to  six  inches  in  diameter.  These  are 
28 


INDIAN  WOMAN  CARRYING  ACORNS. 


426 


IN'  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


made  nearly  white 
with  heat.  W ater- 

tight.  baskets,  half 
filled  with  water,  are 
then  brought,  into 
which  a suitable 
quantity  of  the  acorn 
meal  is  well  stirred. 

The  hot  rocks  are 
then  dropped  in,  and 
moved  around,  until 
the  whole  mass  is 
made,  and  kept,  sim- 
mering (without  al- 
lowing it  to  boil)  for 
nearly  half  an  hour, 
when  it  is  all  dipped 
out,  and  carefully  Indian  woman  grinding  acorns  and  seeds. 
poured  into  the  shallow  sand-bowl,  if  it  may  be  so  called;  to  which 
hot  water  is  constantly  added,  for  the  purpose  of  infiltrating 
the  meal ; and  by  percolation  removing  the  tannin  therein  con- 
tained, into  the  sand  beneath.  This  process  is  repeated  until  every 
perceptible  vestige  of  discoloration  by  the  tannin  is  removed. 


INDIANS  PREPARING  AND  COOKING  THEIR  ACORN  BREAD. 


The  meal  thus  divested  of  its  bitter  principle  and  deleterious 
qualities,  is  ready  for  removal  from  its  sand-basin  to  a basket. 
To  accomplish  this,  free  of  sand,  requires  very  careful  manip- 
ulation ; but,  after  removing  all  the  soft,  pulpy  material  possible, 
by  cautious  handling,  without  including  a grain  of  sand,  the 
remainder  is  stirred  rapidly  round  in  a conical  basket,  half  filled 
with  water ; when  the  meal  settles  on  the  sides  of  the  basket,  and 
the  sand  down  into  the  inverted  cone  at  the  bottom.  In  this  way 
the  whole  is  secured  with  but  trifling  waste  of  material. 

It  is  now  ready  to  be  made  into  bread,  or,  rather,  mush. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLE  1 


427 


INDIANS  PREPARING  AND  COOKING  THEIR  ACORN  BREAD. 


Water-tight  baskets,  containing  the  requisite  quantity  of  clear 
water,  are  again  pressed  into  service,  and  hot  rocks  added  as 
before,  until  it  is  made  to  boil,  this  time.  When  the  meal  is  suffi- 
ciently cooked,  it  is  allowed  to  cool  enough  to  handle,  and  is 
then  served  up  by  setting  it  down  upon  the  ground ; around  which 
every  expected  participant  begins  to  assemble  in  anticipation  of 
the  feast  provided.  Before  commencing  to  eat,  on  all  great 
occasions  at  least,  the  mush  is  first  sprinkled  over  with  Kit-chavi. 
As  this  is  one  of  the  mysteries  of  Indian  cuisine,  it  is  not  to  be 
expected  that  every  one  is  familiar  with  its  nature;  a little  expla- 
nation, therefore,  of  what  this  condiment  consists,  may  make  the 
matter  somewhat  plainer. 

KIT-CHAVI. 

On  the  western  borders  of  Mono  Lake  (whence  many  of  the 
Indian  visitors  of  Yo  Semite  come),  there  is  an  extensive  stretch 
of  foam  forms  every  summer;  and  soon  thereafter  it  is  covered 
with  swarms  of  flies ; which,  when  they  rise  en  masse , literally 


428 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


darken  the  air;  these,  “ fly -blow”  the  foam;  and,  later  in  the  sea- 
son, make  it  alive  with  larvae  and  pupae  from  one  end  to  the  other. 
At  such  times  every  available  native,  young  and  old,  and  of  both 
sexes,  repairs  to  Mono  Lake  with  baskets  of  all  kinds  and  sizes, 
old  coal-oil  cans,  and  such  articles;  and,  collecting  this  foam  with 
its  living  tenants,  repair  to  the  nearest  fresh  water  stream  (Mono 
Lake  water  being  impregnated  with  strong  alkalies),  and  there 
wash  away  the  foam,  while  retaining  all  the  larvse  and  pupse. 
This  is  spread  upon  flat  rocks  to  dry;  and  when  cured,  is  called 
“Kit-chavi,”  and  thenceforward  forms  one  of  the  luxuries  of  Indian 
food,  and  becomes  their  substitute  for  fresh  butter ! 

Before  participating  therefore  in  the  festivities  of  a morning 
or  evening  meal,  this  appetizing  addition  is  made  to  their  acorn 
mush-bread;  when  all  sit,  or  kneel,  around  the  unctuous  viands, 
and  with  his  or  her  two  front  fingers,  converted  for  the  time  being 
into  a spoon,  help  themselves  to  this  unique  repast,  all  eating  from 
the  same  basket. 

Wild  greens,  clover,  gnats,  grubs,  and  mushrooms;  grass, 
weed,  and  other  seeds,  next  to  acorns,  are  their  staples  for  food 
purposes,  and  the  best  they  can  command  for  winter  consumption. 
To  obtain  these  the  women  and  children  beat  them  into  broad- 
topped  baskets;  and,  after  taking  them  to  camp,  clean,  dry,  and 
store  them  like  acorns. 

Bulbous  grass  roots,  eaten  raw,  are  a favorite  food;  from 
the  digging  of  which,  so  frequently  seen  in  early  days,  sprung  the 
despised  term  “ Digger  Indians,”  now  so  generally,  and  so  un- 
worthily in  use  to  designate  the  lowest  class  of  mountain  Indians 
throughout  the  State.  All  kinds  of  wild  fruits,  excepting  the 
wild  coffee,  Hhamnus  Californica,  are  partaken  of  with  avidity. 
The  young  shoots  of  the  Hosackea  vetch,  used  as  greens,  are  con- 
sidered the  finest  of  all  native  vegetables. 

GRASSHOPPERS  A GREAT  FOOD  LUXURY. 

These  are  eaten  as  meat  and  cooked  in  various  ways.  Some- 
times they  are  caught,  threaded  on  a string,  and  hung  over  a lire 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


429 


until  they  are  slightly  roasted,  then  eaten  from  the  string.  At 
others  the  grass  is  set  on  fire,  which  both  disables  and  cooks  them ; 
when  they  are  picked  up  and  eaten,  or  stored  for  future  use. 

The  most  effectual  method  for  securing  grasshoppers,  when 
they  are  abundant,  is  to  dig  a hole  sufficiently  deep  to  prevent 
their  jumping  out;  then  to  form  .a  circle  of  Indians,  both  old  and 

young,  with  a bush  in  each  hand, 
and  commence  driving  them 
towards  it  until  they  fall  in,  and 
are  there  caught.  They  are 
thence  gathered  into  a sack,  and 
saturated  with  salt  water;  after 
which  a trench  is  dug,  in  which 
a good  fire  is  built,  and  when 
it  is  sufficiently  heated,  the  ashes 
are  cleaned  out,  a little  grass  put 
upon  the  bottom,  when  the  grass- 
hoppers are  put  in,  and  cov- 
ered with  hot  rocks  and  earth 
until  they  are  sufficiently  cooked. 
They  are  then  eaten  in  the  same 
manner  as  we  eat  shrimps ; or  are 
put  away  to  mix  with  acorn  or 
seed  mush,  when  they  are  ground 

INDIANS  CATCHING  GRASSHOPPERS  FOR 

F00D  into  a kind  of  paste.  Deer,  bear, 

rabbits,  rats,  squirrels,  gophers,  and  almost  every  other  animal, 
excepting  the  polecat;  with  birds  of  every  kind,  and  fish,  are 
necessarily  made  subservient  to  their  physical  wants. 

When  the  larger  game  is  hunted,  a large  district  is  surrounded 
by  every  available  Indian,  and  experts  with  the  bow  and  arrow 
are  stationed  at  a given  point ; when,  by  fire  and  noise,  the  affrighted 
animals  are  driven  towards  that  spot,  where  they  are  killed. 
These  general  hunts  take  place  in  the  fall  of  the  year,  when  every- 
thing being  dry  is  easily  ignited,  and  when  a winter  supply  of 
meat  is  needed.  It  is  to  this  system  of  procuring  game  that  so 


430 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


many  forest  trees  have  been  burned  in  past  years ; but  the  sheep- 
herder’s  vandal  hands,  mainly,  are  perpetuating  this  infamously 
wanton  practice  at  the  present  time.  Hunting,  however,  is  too 
active  an  employment  to  square  with  their  ideas  of  ease  and 
comfort;  so  that  to  comport  with  these,  and  yet  secure  their  game, 
they  drive  it  into  swampy  places,  where  they  mire  down  and  are 
then  caught  and  killed. 

INDIAN  FANDANGOS. 

To  the  casual  observer,  a fandango,  or  Indian  ball,  is  a wild, 
careless,  free-and-easy  dancing  and  feasting  party,  and  nothing 
more.  To  the  Indians  it  is  a friendly  gathering  together  of  the 
remnants  of  their  race,  for  the  purpose  of  cementing  and  perpetu- 
ating the  bonds  of  family  and  tribal  union  more  closely ; and  at 
the  same  time  to  orally  transmit  to  posterity  the  noble  deeds  and 
valorous  actions  of  their  ancestors. 

Any  particular  tribe  wishing  to  give  a fandango  sends  mes- 
sengers to  all  the  chiefs  of  the  surrounding  tribes,  to  whom  they 
wish  to  give  the  invitation;  accompanied  by  a bundle  of  reeds  or 
sticks,  which  indicates  the  number  of  days  before  it  takes  place; 
but  sometimes  notches  are  cut  in  a twig,  or  knots  are  tied  in  a 
string,  for  that  purpose. 

Extensive  preparations  are  immediately  entered  upon  for  a 
grand  feast,  and  everything  within  the  limit  of  Indian  purvey- 
ance is  pressed  into  service ; nor  is  it  to  be  supposed  that  those 
giving  the  invitation  are  the  only  contributors,  by  any  means; 
inasmuch  as  every  attendant  takes  something  to  make  up  the 
general  variety ; and  to  add  to  that  valuable  quality  in  an  Indian’s 
estimation — quantity.  At  such  times,  too,  presents  of  blankets 
and  other  valuables  are  brought  and  exchanged. 

At  these  festive  seasons,  both  males  and  females  dress  themselves 
according  to  their  most  extravagant  notions  of  paint  and  feathers. 
Several  weeks  are  frequently  consumed  in  making  head-dresses, 
and  other  ornaments,  of  shells,  beads,  top-knots  of  quails,  and  the 
heads  and  wings  of  red-headed  woodpeckers.  When  the  great 
day  of  the  feast  arrives,  groups  of  Indians  may  be  seen  wending 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


431 


their  hilarious  way  to  the  festive  scene;  and  as  many  have  to 
travel  fifteen  or  twenty  miles,  the  whole  first  day  is  consumed 
in  assembling  together,  and  gossiping  over  family  matters.  In 
the  evening,  when  all  are  assembled,  the  ‘"band”  (which  con- 
sists of  about  a dozen  men,  with  reed  whistles,  and  wooden 
castanets,  with  which  they  beat  the  time)  begins  a monotonous 
few-few  with  their  whistles ; while  the  dancers  follow  their  leader 
with  the  castanets,  and  with  them  keep  time  with  a perpetual 
hi-yah , hi-ycth,  until  they  are  out  of  breath,  when  they  take  their 
seats  for  a rest,  and  listen  to  their  orator  for  the  occasion. 


These  fandangos  are  generally  kept  up  for  a number  of  days ; 
and,  as  frequently  happens  at  others  much  more  fashionable,  it  is 
at  such  times  that  many  an  Indian  youth  and  maiden  fall  irre- 
trievably in  love,  and  seek  to  unite  their  hands  and  fortunes  in 
wedlock.  When  this  is  understood,  and  the  union  receives  the 
approbation  of  their  parents  and  friends,  both  are  allowed  a per- 
sonal inspection  of  each  other  in  private;  and  if  this  proves  satis- 
factory, the  fortunate  lover  gathers  together  all  his  worldly  wealth, 
and  repairs  with  it  to  his  expected  future  father-in-law.  The  old 
man  generally  appears  surprised,  hesitates,  inspects  the  candi- 
date for  his  daughter’s  hand  from  head  to  foot,  then  the  amount 


432 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


INDIAN  MARRIAGE  CEREMONY 


of  earthly  goods  the  lover  has  brought  him,  as  an  equivalent  for  his 
daughter’s  hand  and  heart.  After  some  eloquent  pleading,  the 
old  man’s  thoughtful  face  generally  relaxes  into  a smile,  and 
as  soon  as  he  has  accepted  the  presents,  the  ceremony  is  ended, 
and  thenceforward  they  are  considered  man  and  wife. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


433 


Strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  Indian  men  will  not  infrequently 
:gamble  away  their  wives,  as  they  do  other  kinds  of  property,  (for 
they  are  inveterate  gamblers);  and  they  are  far  too  apt  to  con- 
sider the  wife  but  little  better  than  a chattel  for  barter  and  sale. 
Quite  often  a given  number  of  Indian  men  agree  to  fight  for  a 
certain  number  of  Indian  women,  on  which  occasion  each  party 
puts  up  equally.  As  soon  as  either  side  -is  victorious,  the  women, 
who  have  been  awaiting  this  “ hazard  of  the  die  ” as  interested  spec- 
tators, arise,  and  without  hesitancy,  or  question,  accompany  the 
victors;  and  are  apparently  contented  with  the  result.  To  ob- 
tain women  was  frequently  the  only  cause  for  war  among  them. 
And  when  any  particular  tribe  ran  short  of  squaws,  it  uncere- 
moniously stole  some  from  an  adjoining  tribe;  which,  on  the  very 
earliest  favorable  occasion,  returned  the  doubtful  compliment, 
and  sometimes  with  considerable  interest.  Polygamy  is  quite 
common,  some  of  the  chiefs  having  from  three  to  seven  wives,  the 
number  being  limited  only,  (as  among  the  Mormons,)  by  their 
ability  to  support  them. 

INDIAN  DOCTORS. 

This  profession  is  very  popular  among  the  Indians,  and  al- 
though their  knowledge  of  medical  science,  even  in  its  rudest  and 
most  primitive  form,  is  much  more  limited  than  with  the  tribes 
east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  they  sometimes  perform  a few 
simple  cures,  and  on  this  account  are  looked  up  to  with  consider- 
able respect.  The  Indians  have  great  confidence  in  their  “ medi- 
cine men,”  and  believe  them  endowed  with  the  power  of  insuring 
health,  or  of  causing  sickness,  or  even  death ; but  if  they  think  that 
the  doctors  have  used  this  power  arbitrarily,  or  unworthily,  they  are 
unceremoniously  put  to  death.  Their  methods  for  relieving  pain 
and  curing  disease  are  as  unique  as  they  would  be  amusing  to 
a skillful  practitioner.  They  have,  however  learned  a little  of 
the  sophistry  and  finesse  of  the  profession,  and  use  it  with  con- 
siderable skill.  As  illustrative  of  this,  as  they  generally  scarify, 
to  suck  away  all  pain,  they  will  sometimes  put  small  stones,  or 


434 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


bits  of  stick,  or  wild  coffee  berries,  into  their  mouth,  and  produce 
these  to  the  patient  to  induce  him  to  believe  that  this  or  that  has 
been  the  cause  of  all  his  pain ; and  as  he  has  been  successful  in  re- 
moving the  cause,  the  pain  will  naturally  cease ! 

THEIR  RELIGIOUS  BELIEFS. 

They  all  believe  in  a good  spirit,  and  also  in  a very  evil 
spirit.  The  good  spirit,  according  to  their  apprehension,  is  al- 
ways good ; and,  therefore,  ever  to  be  loved  and  trusted,  without 
fear  or  dread;  that,  consequently,  there  is  no  use  in  giving  them- 
selves any  trouble  about  him.  But  not  so  with  the  evil  spirit,  as 
in  his  nature  are  concentrated  all  the  bad  qualities  of  twenty 
Pohono’s  condensed  into  one;  and,  therefore,  he  is  the  one  that 
needs  watching,  and  conciliating  if  possible. 

They  also  believe  in  a pleasant  camping  ground  after  death, 
one  that  is  most  bountifully  supplied  with  every  comfort,  and  where 
they  will  again  meet  all  their  relatives  and  friends,  and  live  with 
them  in  ease  and  plenty  forever.  This  camping  ground  is  pre- 
sided over  by  the  good  spirit,  a semi-deity  or  chief  of  great  power 
and  kindness,  and  who  is  ever  making  them  supremely  happy. 
They  also  believe  that  the  evil  spirit  is  doing  everything  that 
he  can  to  make  them  miserable,  and  keep  them  away  from  this 
happy  camping  ground;  that,  therefore,  their  principal  religious- 
duties  consist  in  avoiding,  circumventing,  or  placating  him. 

They  believe  that  the  heart  is  the  immortal  part,  and  that  if 
the  body  is  buried  the  evil  one  stands  perpetual  guard  over  the 
grave,  and  will  eventually  secure  the  heart  as  his  wished-for  prisoner 
and  prize.  W ith  the  view  of  defeating  this  wicked  purpose,  they 
invariably  burned  the  bodies  of  their  dead  (a  practice  that  has 
been  largely  discontinued  in  later  years,  and  the  example  of  the 
whites  followed,  in  burying  them),  thinking  by  noises  and  grotesque 
motions,  accompanied  by  expressions  of  poignant  sorrow,  to  attract 
the  attention  of  the  evil  one  while  the  body  is  burning,  and  thus, 
give  the  heart  the  opportunity  of  slipping  away  unobserved.. 
Hence  their  custom  of  cremation. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


435 


When  an  Indian  is  known  to  be  near  his  ‘departure  to  the 
spirit  land — as  they  are  all  in  a certain  sense  more  or  less  spirit- 
ualists— his  head  is  generally  pillowed  in  the  lap  of  his  wife,  or 
dearest  friend ; when,  all  standing  around  commence  a low,  mourn- 
ful chant  upon  the  virtues  of  the  dying;  and  with  this  soothing 
lullaby  falling  upon  his  ears,  he  passes  to  the  deep  sleep  of  death. 
As  soon  as  his  heart  has  ceased  to  beat,  the  sad  news  is  carried 
by  runners  to  all  his  relatives,  both  far  and  near;  and  the  low 
chant  is  changed  to  loud  and  frantic  wailings;  accompanied  by 
violent  beatings  of  the  chest  with  their  clenched  fists ; while  with 
tearful  eyes  directed  upwards,  they  apostrophize  the  spirit  of  the 
departed  one  in  their  own  behalf. 

It  is  a singular  fact  that  although  some  Indians  now  bury 
their  dead,  and  others  burn  them,  in  either  case  the  same  prepara- 
tions are  made  for  final  disposition,  which  are  as  follows:  A 
blanket  is  spread  upon  the  ground,  and  the  corpse  laid  thereon, 


PREPARING  THE  BODY  FOR  CREMATION 


436 


IN'  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


when  a brother,  or  other  near  relative,  carefully,  but  firmly,  folds 
the  knees  up  towards  the  chin,  places  the  arms  down  over  them, 
and  then  binds  the  body  and  limbs  together  as  tightly  as  it  is  possi- 
ble so  to  do.  All  this  time  the  wild  howling  and  wailing  continues 
until  the  body  is  ready ; then,  for  about  twenty  minutes,  or  half 
an  hour,  the  mourning  ceases;  and  not  a sound  is  allowed  to  in- 
trude upon  the  stillness  and  rude  solemnity  of  the  scene.  At  a 
given  signal  all  rise  simultaneously;  the  women  to  renew  their 
wailings,  and  the  men  to  build  the  funeral  pyre,  or  to  prepare  the 
grave. 

When  the  fuel,  composed  mainly  of  pitch  pine  and  oak,  is 
about  two  feet  high,  every  sound  again  ceases ; and,  amid  a death- 
like stillness,  the  men  place  the  body  on  the  pyre.  This  accom- 
plished, additional  wood  is  piled  upon  and  around  it,  until  all 
except  the  face  is  completely  covered  up.  Then,  slowly  and 
solemnly,  the  nearest  and  oldest  relative  advances,  with  torch  in 
hand,  and  with  deep  yet  suppressed  emotion  sets  the  wood  on  fire. 


INDIANS  BURNING  THEIR  DEAD. 

The  moment  the  first  cloud  of  smoke  eddies  up  into  the  air, 
the  discordant  howlings  of  the  women  becomes  deafening,  and  al- 
most appalling;  while  the  men,  for  the  most  part,  look  on  with 
sullen  and  unbroken  silence. 


TIIE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


437 


Those  who  are  nearest  and  dearest  to  the  fire-consuming 
dead,  with  long  sticks  in  their  hands,  dance  frantically  around ; 
and  occasionally  stir  up  the  fire,  or  turn  the  burning  body  over, 
to  insure  its  more  speedy  consumption  by  the  devouring  element; 
hoping  by  these  united  movements  to  attract  the  evil  one’s  atten- 
tion, and  give  the  heart  the  opportunity  of  eluding  his  watchful 
glances,  and  of  escaping  unseen  to  the  happy  camping  ground. 

After  the  body  is  nearly  consumed,  the  blackened  remains 
are  taken  from  the  fire,  rolled  up  in  one  of  their  best  blankets, 
or  cloths,  and  allowed  to  cool  a little;  when  his  wives,  or  those 
nearest  and  dearest,  segregate  the  unconsumed  portions,  and  wrap 
every  piece  separately  in  strings  of  beads,  or  other  ornaments; 
they  then  place  them  carefully  in  a basket  that  has  been  most  beau- 
tifully worked  for  the  occasion,  with  any  other  valuables  possessed 
by  the  departed  one;  and  the  fire  being  rebuilt,  the  basket  and 
its  contents  are  placed  upon  it ; with  blankets,  cloths,  dresses,  bows 
and  arrows,  and  every  other  article  that  has  been  touched  by  the 
deceased,  and  all  are  then  committed  to  the  flames.  When  these 
are  burned,  every  unconsumed  log  is  carefully  scraped,  the  ashes 
swept  together,  and  the  whole,  with  the  exception  of  the  portion 
always  reserved  for  mourning,  are  then  placed  in  another  basket 
and  carefully  buried.  All  Indians,  without  exception,  cast  the 
personal  property  of  the  deceased,  as  well  as  presents  of  their  own, 
into  the  grave;  so  that  he  may  want  nothing  when  he  enters  the 
great  camping  ground,  believed  to  be  somewhere  in  the  far  dis- 
tant West.  The  reserved  ashes  being  mixed  with  pitch  is  spread 
over  the  faces  of  the  female  relatives  as  a badge  of  mourning; 
and  which,  although  hideous  to  our  sight,  is  sacred  to  theirs;  and 
is  allowed  to  remain  until  it  wears  off,  which  is  generally  about 
six  months.  Sometimes  the  old  squaws  renew  their  mourning 
from  the  cheeks  to  the  ears.  A married  woman,  when  her  hus- 
band dies,  invariably  cuts  off  her  hair.  Mr.  Galen  Clark,  one  of 
the  oldest  residents  of  Yo  Semite,  assured  the  writer  that  when 
m their  deepest  lamentations  for  their  dead,  they  cry  out,  ‘ ‘ Him- 
mah-lay-ah,”  “ Him-mah-lay-ah,”  gesticulating  westward. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

VERNAL  AND  NEVADA  FALLS. 

These  are  thy  glorious  works,  Parent  of  good. 

— Milton’s  Paradise  Lost,  Bk.  V,  Line  153. 


The  rustle  of  the  leaves  in  summer’s  hush 

When  wandering  breezes  touch  them,  and  the  sigh 
That  filters  through  the  forest,  or  the  gush 

That  swells  and  sinks  amid  the  branches  high, — 

’Tis  all  the  music  of  the  wind,  and  we 
Let  fancy  float  on  this  HSolian  breath. 

— M.  G.  Brainard’s  Music. 


But  on  and  up,  where  Nature’s  heart 
Beats  strong  amid  the  hills. 

— Richard  Milnes. 


As  a rule  it  is  desirable  that  the  trips  to  Mirror  Lake,  and  to 
the  Yernal  and  Nevada  Falls,  should  be  taken  conjointly;  inas- 
much as  the  two  can  be  comfortably  included  on  the  same  day. 
Besides  this  when  we  are  at  the  Tis-sa-ack  Bridge,  after  the  Tis- 
sa-ack  Avenue  drive  we  are  two  miles  on  our  way  to  those  falls. 
To  avoid  doubling  the  two  miles  of  distance,  between  Barnard’s 
and  the  Tis-sa-ack  Bridge,  while  utilizing  the  stretch  gained,  as 
the  remaining  two  and  three-fifths  miles  to  Snow’s  Hotel  have  to 
be  taken  on  horseback,  our  saddle  animals  should  meet  us  at  the 
bridge. 

TIMID  PEOPLE  HAVE  NO  CAUSE  FOR  FEAR. 


As  many  persons  who  visit  Yo  Semite  have  never  sat  on  a 
horse  before,  and  many  others  have  been  entirely  out  of  practice 
of  later  years,  and  in  consequence  are  possibly  a little  nervous 
about  it,  it  seems  to  me  to  be  eminently  proper  that  I should 
here  invite  their  encouraging  confidence  in  themselves,  by  stating 
that  each  horse  is  well  trained,  and  knows  where  to  set  down 
every  foot  : so  as  to  insure  not  only  his  own  safety  but  that  of  the 
(438) 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


439 


precious  burden  be  is  bearing.  Then,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind, 
that,  notwithstanding*  the  man}^  many  thousands  who  have  rid- 
den up  and  down  these  mountain  trails,  there  has  never  been  a 
serious  accident  upon  any  one  of  them,  in  the  thirty-one  years 
this  Valley  has  been  opened  to  the  public.  Think  of  this. 

BY  THE  ANDERSON  TRAIL  TOWARDS  VERNAL  FALL. 

Owing  to  the  intersecting  connection  that  has  recently  been 
made  between  the  new  Anderson  trail  up  the  northern  bank  of 
the  main  Merced  River,  and  the  Snow  trail  on  the  southern  bank, 
at  Register  Rock,  a new,  and  if  possible,  more  picturesque  ride 
than  the  former  one  along  the  base  of  Echo  Wall,  has  been  opened 
up.  Therefore,  instead  of  crossing  to  the  southern  end  of  Tis- 
sa-ack  Bridge,  we  will,  if  you  please,  take  the  broad  and  well- 
graded  Anderson  trail  at  the  northern  end  of  the  bridge.  Maples, 
dogwoods,  oaks,  pines,*  and  cedars  edge  in  and  arch  over  our  path: 
and  near  Cold  Spring — the  only  one  on  this  route — grows  a fine 
clump  of  tall  and  feathery  Woodwardia  ferns.  By  looking 
back  a few  yards  beyond  this  the  Valley  has  the  semblance  of  a 
forest  walled  in;  while  over  its  distant  boundary  the  Yo  Semite 
Fall  is  leaping. 

Passing  just  immediately  along  the  foot  wall  of  Grizzly 
Peak,  where  the  horse-path  has  been  hewn  out  of  solid  granite; 
or  high  supporting  walls  have  been  built  upon  it,  to  make  a 
thoroughfare  possible  here,  it  can  be  readily  seen  how  great  were 
the  difficulties  to  be  surmounted. 

The  late  George  Anderson,  who  engineered  and  constructed 
it,  and  after  whom  it  will  probably  be  named,  made  a contract  to 
complete  it  to  Snow’s  Hotel  for  $1,500.  This,  however,  was  all 
expended  before  Grizzly  Peak  was  passed.  A similar  amount 
was  voted  him  for  finishing  it,  but  this  also  was  found  to  be  far 
from  sufficient ; he  was  then  engaged  to  continue  it,  ad  libitum ; 
but,  after  some  $5,000  had  been  expended  upon  it,  and  the  granite 
wall  along  the  north  side  of  the  Vernal  Fall,  over  which  the  trail 
was  to  run  for  over  eleven  hundred  feet,  had  scarcely  been 


440 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


touched,  further  work  upon  it  was  for  the  present  suspended. 
This  broad  and  substantial  trail,  however,  remains  a monumental 
acknowledgment  of  Anderson’s  skid,  pluck,  indomitable  will, 
and  undiscourageable  perseverance. 

This  trail  (almost  wide  enough  for  a wagon  road),  pre- 
sents sublimely  delightful  pictures  of  the  rushing,  boiling,  surg- 
ingriver;  and  the  finest  of  all  views,  of  the  Too-lool-a-we-ack,  or 
Glacier  Canon,  stretching  the  entire  length  of  it  to  its  four  hundred 
feet  water-fall,  near  the  Horseshoe  Grotto  at  its  head.  This  canon 
is  called  by  Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney  the  “ Illilouette,”  a supposed  Indian 
name ; but  I have  never  questioned  a single  Indian  that  knew  any- 
thing whatever  of  such  a word;  while  every  one,  without  an 
exception,  knows  this  canon  either  by  Too-lool-a-we-ack  or  Too- 
lool-we-ack ; the  meaning  of  which,  as  nearly  as  their  ideas  can 
be  comprehended  and  interpreted,  is  the  place  beyond  which  was 
the  great  rendezvous  of  the  Yo  Semite  Indians  for  hunting  deer. 
However  this  may  have  been,  the  way  up  to  it  was  certainly 
never  through  this  canon,  if  it  always  had  surroundings  as  wildly 
impassable  as  the  present,  ones. 

view  from  Anderson’s  old  blacksmith  shop. 

Before  crossing  the  Merced  River,  those  who  are  good  walk- 
ers and  delight  in  grand  scenes,  should  leave  their  horses  at  the 
junction  of  the  trails,  and  make  their  way  afoot  to  the  top  of  the 
debris  at  the  back  of  Anderson’s  old  blacksmith  shop ; as  thence 
magnificent  views  are  obtained  of  both  the  Vernal  and  Nevada 
Falls,  with  all  their  varied  mountainous  surroundings.  Before 
very  long  a good  horse-path  will  probably  be  made  to  this  point; 
and,  possibly,  to  the  foot  of  the  Vernal  Fall,  on  the  north  side 
the  river. 

THE  VERNAL  FALL  FROM  REGISTER  ROCK  BRIDGE. 

Those  who  have  ever  witnessed  the  glorious  scene  this  fall 
presents  from  the  Lady  Franklin  Rock,  some  two  hundred  yards 
above,  can  form  an  approximating  idea  of  its  impressive  majesty 
from  this  fine  standpoint.  Dr.  Win.  B.  May,  Secretary  to  the 


TILE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


441 


Board  of  Commissioners,  thus  reports  this  scene  to  the  Board: 
“ Standing  upon  the  new  bridge,  with  the  Vernal  Fall  in  the 
near  upper  view,  and  the  wealth  and  war  of  rushing  waters 
beneath  one’s  feet,  there  is  a presence  of  power  and  grandeur, 
hardly  equaled  in  the  Valley.”  The  musical  Merced,  as  it  roars, 
and  gurglingly  rushes  among  and  over  huge  bowlders,  that  here 
throng  the  channel  of  the  river,  possibly  calls  to  memory  that 
passage  of  holy  writ:  “And  I heard  as  it  were  the  voice  of  a 
great  multitude,  and  as  the  voice  of  many  waters,  and  as  the 
voice  of  mighty  thunderings,  saying,  Alleluia;  for  the  Lord  God 
omnipotent  reigneth.  ’ ’ 

REGISTER  ROCK. 

This  is  an  immense,  overhanging,  smooth-faced  “ chip  ” of 
rock  about  the  size  of  an  ordinary  village  church ; upon  which  very 
many  have,  at  various  times  and  seasons,  inscribed  their  names; 
not  so  much  for  expected  immortality,  perhaps,  as  to  inform  their 
friends,  who  may  at  some  subsequent  season  see  it,  that  they  have 
been  here.  There  is  one  entry  upon  a sloping  side  rock,  that  is 
perhaps  worthy  of  notice,  as  it  reads,  “ Camped  here  August  21, 
1863.  A.  Bierstadt,  Virgil  Williams,  E.  W.  Perry,  Fitzhugh 
Ludlow.”  It  was  during  this  visit  to  the  Valley  that  Mr.  Bier- 
stadt made  the  sketch  from  which  his  famous  picture,  “ The. 
Domes  of  the  Yo  Semite,”  was  afterwards  painted. 

A VISIT  TO  THE  LADY  FRANKLIN  ROCK. 

This  name  was  given  in  honor  of  the  devoted  -wife  of  the 
great  Arctic  voyager,  Sir  John  Franklin,  who  paid  Yo  Semite  a 
visit  in  1863.  From  this  rock  one  of  the  best  of  all  views  is 
obtained  of 

THE  VERNAL  FALL. 

The  Indian  name  of  this  magnificent  water-leap  is  “Pi-wy- 
ack,”  which,  if  it  could  be  literally  interpreted,  would  express  a con- 
stant shower  of  scintillating  crystals.  Seen  from  below,  it  is  an 
apparently  vertical  sheet  of  water,  of  sparkling  brightness,  and 

of  almost  snowy  whiteness,  leaping  into  a rock-strewn  basin  at 
29 


442 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


its  foot ; whence  vast  billows  of  finely  comminuted  spray  roll  forth 
in  surging  waves,  and  out  of  which  the  most,  beautiful  of  rain- 
bows are  built,  to  span  the  angry  chasm  with  a befitting  halo  of 
exalting  glory.  This  fall,  if  possible,  impresses  one  more  than 
any  other  with  the  feeling  of  Infinite  Power. 

Its  vertical  height,  by  nearly  every  measurement,  is  three 
hundred  and  fifty  feet;  and  its  breadth  on  top,  varying  of  course 
somewhat  with  the  differing  stages  of  water,  is  about  eighty  feet. 
The  Wheeler  U.  S.  Survey  corps  made  the  altitude  of  this  fall 
three  hundred  and  forty- three  feet.  Professor  Whitney,  State 
Geologist,  thus  speaks  of  it: — 

The  first  fall  reached  in  ascending  the  canon  is  the  Vernal,  a perpen- 
dicular sheet  of  water  with  a descent  varying  greatly  with  the  season. 
Our  measurements  gi,ve  all  the  way  from  315  feet  to  475  feet  for  the  vertical 
height  of  the  fall,  between  the  months  of  June  and  October.  The  reason 
of  these  discrepancies  seems  to  lie  in  the  fact  that  the  rock  near  the  bottom 
is  steeply  inclined,  so  that  a precise  definition  of  the  place  where  the  per- 
pendicular part  ceases  is  very  difficult  amid  the  blinding  spray  and  foam. 
As  the  body  of  water  increases,  the  force  of  the  fall  is  greater,  and  of 
course  it  is  thrown  farthest  forward  when  the  mass  of  water  is  greatest. 
Probably  it  is  near  the  truth  to  call  the  height  of  the  fall,  at  the  average 
stage  of  the  water  in  June  or  July,  400  feet.  The  rock  behind  this  fall  is 
a perfectly  square-cut  mass  of  granite,  extending  across  the  canon,  etc. 

Now,  inasmuch  as,  according  to  Professor  Whitney’s  admis- 
sion, it  is  a “ perpendicular  sheet  of  water,”  and  “the  rock  behind 
this  fall  is  a perfectly  square-cut  mass  of  granite  extending  across 
the  canon,”  I must  confess  my  inability  to  see  that  there  could, 
by  any  possibility,  be  a difference,  at  any  time,  of  more  than  a 
foot  or  two  at  most;  as,  when  the  water  was  highest  on  the  top, 
the  same  result  would  be  noticeable  in  the  pool  at  the  bottom ; 
thus  precluding  the  probability  of  a difference  of  one  hundred  and 
sixty  feet  in  a “perpendicular”  fall  of  three  hundred  and  fifty 
feet.  Had  the  steep  inclination  spoken  of  been  applied  to  the 
Nevada  F all  Avail,  it  would  have  been  perfectly  correct,  but  it  is 
not  in  the  least  degree  so  when  speaking  of  the  Vernal. 


TIIE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


443 


THROUGH  THE  SPRAY  TO  THE  “ LADDERS.” 

Many  attempt  this  when  the  fall  is  fullest;  but,  novel  as  the 
experience  may  be,  the  proceeding,  in  my  judgment,  is  not  among 
the  wisest  to  the  average  visitor.  Over  two  hundred  feet  of  alti- 
tude has  to  be  attained  through  blinding  spray;  which  not  only 
closes  the  eyes,  but  takes  away  the  breath  needed  for  the  climb. 
It  is  far  better  to  come  down  through  this,  and  have  it  helpfully 
at  our  backs,  than  defiantly  and  drenchingly  in  our  faces.  But, 
should  it  be  attempted,  one  is  soon  enveloped  in  a heavy  sheet  of 
spray,  that  is  driven  down  in  such  gusty  force  as  to  resemble  a 
heavy  beating  storm  of  comminuted  rain.  It  is  true  that  to  an 
athletic  climber,  with  good  lungs,  it  is  not  only  possible,  but  en- 
joyable; and,  moreover,  is  very  soon  accomplished.  Ladies,  how- 
ever, attempting  this  will  need  suitably  short  dresses ; or  they  will 
not  only  be  inconvenienced  at  every  step,  but  incur  the  danger  of 
falling ; and,  possibly,  of  rolling  down  into  the  angry  current  below. 

RIDE  UP  THE  TRAIL. 

Prudence,  therefore,  suggesting  that  this  should  be  deferred 
until  our  return,  let  us  retrace  our  steps  to  the  horses  at  Register 
Rock ; that,  by  this  time,  are  sufficiently  rested  to  carry  us  safely 
up  the  zigzagging  trail  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  some  eight  hundred 
feet  above  us.  At  almost  every  turning  in  the  trail  its  sinuosities 
enable  us  to  look  upon  the  members  of  our  party,  and  exchange 
with  them  a greeting  look,  a kindly  word,  or  snatches  of  a 
favorite  song.  Our  progress  upward  is  necessarily  slow,  as  the 
animals  need  to  pause  for  breath,  if  not  for  strength ; but  trees 
and  tree  shadows,  mossy  rocks,  and  towering  cliffs  bespeak  ad- 
miring thoughts  for  every  moment.  When  about  two-thirds  of 
the  climb  has  been  overcome,  from  a corner  of  the  trail,  looking 
back,  the  top  of  Yo  Semite  Fall  comes  into  view.  But  presently 
we  find  ourselves  crossing  the  highest  point  on  the  way  to  Snow’s, 
and  before  us  opens  a scene  never  to  be  forgotten.  It  is  the  Cap 
of  Liberty,  and  Nevada  Fall. 

Of  these  two  there  seems  to  be  a difficulty  in  determining 


Photo,  by  Geo.  Fiske. 


CAP  OF  LIBERTY  AND  NEVADA  FALL. 


' TIIE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


445 


which  is  the  most  attractive;  but,  taken  together  as  here  pre- 
sented, the  scenic  combination  is  marvelously  imposing.  Let  us, 
however,  separate  them,  momentarily,  for  consideration,  notwith- 
standing “ they  are  but  parts  of  one  stupendous  whole.” 

THE  CAP  OF  LIBERTY,  HOW  AND  WHEN  SO  NAMED. 

Owing  to  the  exalted  and  striking  individuality  of  this  boldly 
singular  mountain  (some  most  excellent  judges  pronouncing  it 
only  secondar}7  to  El  Capitan),  it  had  many  godfathers  in  early 
days;  who  christened  it  Mt.  Frances,  Gwin’s  Peak,  Bellows’  Butte, 
Mt.  Broderick,  and  others;  but,  when  Governor  Stanford  (now 
U.  S.  Senator)  was  in  front  of  it  with  his  party  in  1865,  and 
inquired  its  name,  the  above  list  of  appellatives  was  enumer- 
ated, and  the  Governor  invited  to  take  his  choice  of  candidates. 
A puzzled  smile  lighted  up  his  face  and  played  about  his  eyes,  as 
he  responded,  “Mr.  H.,  I cannot  say  that  I like  either  of  those 
names  very  much  for  that  magnificent  mountain;  don’t  you  think 
a more  appropriate  one  could  be  given?’  Producing  an  old- 
fashioned  half-dollar  with  the  ideal  Cap  of  Liberty  well  defined 
upon  it,  the  writer  suggested  the  close  resemblance  in  form  of  the 
mountain  before  us  with  the  embossecf  cap  on  the  coin ; when  the 
Governor  exclaimed,  “Why!  Mr.  H.,  that  would  make  a most 
excellent  and  appropriate  name  for  that  mountain.  Let  us  so 
call  it.”  Thenceforward  it  was  so  called;  and  as  every  one  pref- 
erentially respects  this  name,  all  others  have  been  quietly  renun- 
ciated. 

THE  SUMMIT  OF  THE  CAP  OF  LIBERTY. 

Its  altitude  above  Snow’s  Hotel,  by  my  aneroid  barometer, 
is  one  thousand  eight  hundred  feet.  'The  singularity  of  its  form 
and  majesty  of  presence  must  impress  every  beholder.  For  many 
years  it  was  pronounced  inaccessible,  but  a few  enthusiastic  spirits 
found  their  way  to  the  top.  Apparently  such  an  isolated  mass 
of  granite  could  scarcely  find  foot-hold  for  a few  bushes,  that 
strugglingly  eked  out  a half -starved  existence;  but,  strange  as  it 
may  seem,  when  once  upon  its  crown,  quite  a number  of  goodly 


446 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


sized  trees  and  shrubs  are  found;  among  which  are  nine  juniper 
trees,  J umperus  Occidentalis  two  of  which  are  over  ten  feet  in 
diameter , and  must  be  some  fifteen  hundred  years  old  The  moss 
on  these  is  the  most  beautiful  when  in  blossom,  of  any  that  I 
ever  saw.  There  are  also  several  Douglas  spruce  trees,  Psudo- 
isuga  Douglasii;  and  the  dwarf  shrub  oak,  Quercus  dumosa, 
manzanita,  and  others;  besides  flowers,  flowering  shrubs,  and  ferns. 

But  a view  from  the  top  of  the  Cap  of  Liberty  repays  for 
all  the  fatigue  attending  the  scrambling  climb  to  reach  it. 
Deep  down  in  the  Little  Yo  Semite  Valley  (the  entire  length  of 
which  is  visible),  meanders  the  Merced  River.  Tall  pines  and  firs, 
everywhere  abundant,  appear  like  toy  trees  about  the  right  size 
for  walking- canes.  But,  let  us  take  courage,  and  walk  out  to  the 
edge  of  the  Cap ; as,  at  the  southeastern  corner,  there  is  a large 
glacier-left  bowlder  which  offers  clinging  support  for  our  fingers, 
while  steadying  our  nerves,  so  that  we  can  look  down  into  the  abyss 
between  us  and  the  Nevada  Fail;  noting  the  form  and  graceful 
sweep  of  its  waters  and  the  dazzling  whiteness  of  its  sheeny  foam. 
Echo  Wall,  Glacier  Point,  Sentinel  Dome,  the  top  of  El  Capitan, 
Eagle  Peak,  Yo  Semite  Fall,  Grizzly  Peak,  omnipresent  Half 
Dome,  Cloud’s  Rest,  and  Mount  Starr  King,  with  numerous  other 
points  and  ridges,  are  all  in  full  sight. 

SIDE  VIEW  OF  THE  VERNAL  FALL. 

Returning,  in  thought,  to  the  point  whence  our  first  glimpse 
of  these  wonders  was  obtained,  we  follow  the  sinuosities  of  the 
trail  nearly  to  the  brink  of  the  chasm,  into  which  we  can  see  the 
Vernal  Fall  leaping.  When  nearest,  it  would  be  well  here  to  dis- 
mount; and,  carefully  picking  our  way  down  within  a few  feet  of 
the  edge  (where  a safe  and  convenient  opening  between  blocks  of 
rock  enables  us  to  sit  comfortably),  by  leaning  over  a little,  we 
can  watch  the  water-fall  leaping  from  its  verge  on  the  top  to  the 
pool  at  the  bottom.  This  charming  view  is  too  often  passed  by 
without  being  noticed  and  enjoyed. 

Before  bestowing  more  than  a passing  glance  on  the  multi- 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


447 


tudinous  objects  of  uncommon  interest  in  this  vicinity,  if  they 
are  to  be  enjoyed,  thoroughly  and  in  detail,  it  would  be  well  to 
repair  directly  to  Snow’s,  for  rest  and  refreshment. 

SNOW’S  “CASA  NEVADA.” 

This  hospice  is  situated  about  midway  between  the  top  of  the 
Vernal,  and  foot  of  the  Nevada  Falls.  It  has  become  deservedly 
famous  all  over  the  world,  not  only  for  its  excellent  lunches  and 
general  good  cheer,  but  from  the  quiet,  unassuming  attentions  of 
mine  host,  and  the  piquant  pleasantries  of  Mrs.  Snow.  I do  not 
think  that  another  pair,  anywhere,  could  be  found  that  would 
more  fittingly  fill  this  position.  And,  although  they  do  not 
know  whether  the  number  ta  lunch  will  be  five  or  fifty-five, 
they  almost  always  seem  to  have  an  abundance  of  everything 
relishable.  On  one  occasion — and  this  will  illustrate  Mrs.  Snow’s 
natural  readiness  with  an  answer — a lady,  seeing  so  great  a va- 
riety upon  the  table,  with  eager  interest  inquired,  “Why!  Mrs. 
Snow,  where  on  earth  do  you  get  all  these  things ? ” “Oh!  we 
raise  them!”  “Why!  where  can  you  possibly  do  so,  as  I see 
nothing  but  rocks  around  here?  ” “ Oh!  madam,  we  raise  them 

— ron  the  backs  of  mules ! ” 

From  the  porches  of  the  Casa  Nevada,  and  its  comfortable 
“cottage,”  the  glorious  Nevada  Fall,  where  the  whole  Merced 
River  makes  a leap  of  over  six  hundred  feet,  a magnificent  view 
is  obtained.  The  roar  of  this  fall,  and  the  billowy  mists  that  in 
early  spring  roll  out  such  eddying  and  gusty  masses  of  spray, 
arched  by  rainbows  on  every  sun-lighted  afternoon,  will  captivate 
and  charm  our  every  emotion.  The  best  view,  probably,  of  this 
sublime  spectacle  is  from  the  foot-bridge,  over  the  hurrying  and 
wave-surging  river.  There  a scene  is  presented  that  fills  the 
soul  to  overflowing  with  reverential  and  impressive  awe ; as,  with 
uncovered  head,  the  self-prompted  mental  question  is  in  silence 
asked,  “ Is  not  this  the  very  footstool  of  His  throne?  ” 

“ The  Nevada  Fall  is,”  says  Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney,  “ in  every 
respect,  one  of  the  grandest  water-falls  in  the  world;  whether  we 


448 


IN  TIIE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


consider  its  vertical  height,  the  purity  and  volume  of  the  river 
which  forms  it,  or  the  stupendous  scenery  by  which  it  is  envi- 
roned.” This  is  an  opinion  that  I have  frequently  heard  expressed 
by  travelers  from  many  lands.  When  in  front  of  it,  and  looking 
upward,  it  can  readily  be  seen  that  this  fall  differs  in  form  with 
either  of  the  others ; for,  although  it  shoots  over  the  precipice  in  a 
curve,  it  soon  strikes  the  smooth  surface  of  the  mountain,  and 
spreads  out  into  a sheet  of  marvelously  snowy  whiteness,  and  of 
burnished  brightness,  widening  as  it  descends,  until  it  sometimes 
exceeds  one  hundred  feet  in  breadth,  at  the  pool  into  which  it 
is  leaping.  The  height  of  this  fall  is  given  at  six  hundred  and 
five  feet  by  the  Wheeler  U.  S.  Survey  corps. 

This  point  being  as  far  as  visitors  generally  go — although 
many  enthusiastic  climbers  and  appreciative  lovers  of  the  beau- 
tiful seek  the  wonderful  view  from  its  top — we  will,  for  the 
present,  if  you  please,  ask  the  guide  to  take  our  horses  down 
to  Register  Rock,  while  we  say  good-by  to  our  genial  host  and 
his  wife,  and  then  seek  the  wondrous  scenes  below,  afoot. 

ELEVEN  FEET  OF  SNOW. 

A gentleman  who,  from  modesty,  desires  that  his  name  may 
be  kept  a secret,  once  took  an  unfair  advantage  of  a confiding 
visitor,  by  informing  him  that  there  were  nearly  eleven  feet  of 
snow  visible  here  throughout  the  hottest  days  of  summer.  “ Is 
it  possible?  Oh!  how  much  I should  like  to  see  it.”  “Please 
allow  me,  then,  to  introduce  you  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Snow — the 
former  being  five  feet  nine  inches,  and  the  latter  making  up  the 
remainder ! ” 

Soon  after  leaving  “ Snow’s,”  we  find  ourselves  upon  the 
bridge  that  here  spans  the  river.  Listening  to  the  roar  of  the 
fall  above,  we  naturally  turn  our  faces  towards  it,  and  then  look 
down  into  the  apparently  insignificant  stream  beneath  us,  and 
think,  can  this  be  the  whole  of  the  main  Merced  River?  It  scarcely 
seems  possible,  but  so  it  is.  Its  narrow,  rock-bound,  and  deep, 
trough-like  channel  confines  it  to  a width  seldom  exceeding  ten. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLE 1 


449 


feet.  While  it  is  swashingf  and  rushing:  on  let  us  turn  our  g:aze 

o o o 

to  the  opposite  side,  and  look  down  on 

THE  DIAMOND  CASCADE. 

W e now  readily  appreciate  the  apposite  character  of  its  name ; 
for,  down,  down,  the  whole  river  is  leaping,  as  if  in  very  wanton- 
ness and  exultation  at  the  liberty  it  has  gained ; and,  being  seized 
with  an  uncontrollable  fit  of  frolicking,  is  tossing  up  diamonds 
(of  the  purest  water)  with  a prodigality  and  apparent  improvi- 
dence that  would  shock  the  sensitive  acquisitiveness  of  “ My 
Uncle,”  if  he  could  see  it.  By  the  demureness  of  its  demeanor, 
however,  below,  as  it  “ pursues  the  even  tenor  of  its  way,”  it  would 
seem  to  be  laughing  in  its  sleeve,  and  saying,  “ You  see,  I was 
only  in  fun — don’t  mind  me!  ” Around  a jutting  point  of  rock, 
we  find  ourselves  at  the  Silver  Apron. 


SILVER  APRON,  AND  DIAMOND  CASCADE,  FROM  BELOW 


450 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


When  standing  near  the  edge  of  the  impetuous  current,  and 
looking  up  towards  the  Diamond  Cascade  Bridge  we  have  so  re- 
cently crossed,  the  whole  river  seems  to  be  attempting,  in  the 
most  reckless  manner,  to  throw  its  separated  and  scintillating 
drops  and  masses  into  our  faces;  but,  unmindful  of,  or  excusing 
this,  we  cannot  resist  the  temptation  of  watching  the  sportive  and 
sprightly  fearlessness  of  its  dashing  abandon;  or  the  aston- 
ishingly brilliant  beauty  of  this  sparkling  outlet  from  the  Diamond 
Cascade. 

Directly  in  front  of  us,  and  down  at  our  left,  the  whole  river 
is  scurrying  over  smooth,  bare  granite,  at  the  rate  of  a fast 
express  train  on  the  best  of  railroads.  Pieces  of  wood  or  bark 
tossed  upon  its  silvery  bosom  tell  instantly  of  its  marvelous  speed 

TAKING  A “ BAWTH.” 

An  English  gentleman  who  was  making  his  temporary  resi- 
dence at  Snow’s  Hotel,  amazed  its  inmates  one  morning  by  ap- 
pearing on  the  scene  with  his  face  badly  cut,  and  his  hands  bleed- 
ing. With  astonished  surprise  at  such  a sight  Mr.  Snow  inno- 
cently inquired: — 

“What  on  earth,  man,  have  you  been  doing  to  yourself,  to 
get  into  such  a plight  as  that?  ” 

Looking  steadfastly  at  the  questioner,  while  wiping  the  red 
stains  away  with  as  much  easy  deliberation  as  though  a little  dust 
had  fallen  upon  his  face,  and  needed  removal,  he  hesitatingly  made 
answer: — 

“ Th-the-there  is,  you  k-know,  a s-smooth  k-kind  of  place  in 
the-the  river,  j-just  b-be-low  the- the  lit-tle  bridge,  you  know, 
w-where  the-the  wa-water  p-passes  s-somewhat  r -rapidly  over 
the-the-rock,  you  know.” 

“ Oh!  yes,”  replied  Mr.  Snow,  “ I remember;  that  is  what  we 
cad  the  ‘ Silver  Apron.’  Well?  ” 

“ W-well,  w-when  I g-gazed  up-upon  it,  I-I-th-thought  it-it 
w-would  be  a-a-de-lightful  p-place  to  t-t-take  a-a  b-bawth,  you 
k-know.” 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


451 


“ Why,  sir,”  responded  the  landlord  of  the  ‘ Casa  Nevada,’ 
aghast,  and  interruptingly,  “ why,  the  whole  Merced  River 
shoots  over  there,  at  the  rate  of  about  sixty  miles  an  hour — faster 
than  a locomotive  goes  upon  a railroad!  ” 

“Is-is  i-it  p-possible?  W -we- well,  I h-had  n-no  s-sooner  d-dis- 
robed  m-my-s-self,  and  s-set  m-my  f-foot  in-into  th-the  h-hurry- 
ing  c-c-current,  y-you  k-know,  t-than  i-it  k-knocked  m-me  off 
m-my  p-ins,  you  know ! an-and  s-swept  me  d-down  s-so  s-swiftlv 
th-that  it  q-quite  t-took  my  b-breath  a-away  f-for  a f-few  m-mo- 
ments,  you  k-know;  s-sometimes  i-it  r-rolled  me  o-over  and  o-over, 
a-and  a-at  o-other  t-times  s-shot  me  d-down  en-endwise,  y-you 
k-know;  a-and  fi-finally  b-brought  m-me  up-in  a s-sort  o-of  pool, 
y-you  know!  ” 

“ The  Emerald  Pool,”  suggested  Mr.  Snow. 

And,  b-by  G-George,  if  I h-had  no-not  b-been  an  ex-excellent 
swim-swimmer,  I s-should  cer-certainly  h-have  1-lost  my  life,  you 
know ! A-and,  it  is  n-not  my  h-hands  a-and  m-my  f-face  o-only- 
i-it  is  a-all  o-over  m-me-like  that,  you  know ! ” 

Opinions  are  sometimes  hastily  formed,  and  are  not  always 
supported  by  the  best  of  good  reasons;  and  it  may  be  so  in  this 
case,  but  the  supposition  most  generally  prevails,  that,  when  this 
gentleman  wishes  to  take  another  “bawth,”  he  will  not  seek  to 
do  so  at  the  “ Silver  Apron.” 

THE  EMERALD  POOL. 

This  is  a beautiful  lake,  or  pool,  whose  waters  are,  as  its 
name  signifies,  “ emerald.”  The  river’s  current,  driving  with 
great  force  into  its  upper  margin,  causes  a constant  succession  of 
waves  to  disturb  its  surface,  especially  during  the  spring  flow. 
Its  mountainous  surroundings,  trees,  and  bowlders,  add  much  to 
the  picturesqueness  of  its  character.  Descending  towards 

THE  TOP  OF  THE  VERNAL  FALL, 

Little  patches  of  glacier-polished  rock  surface  are  still  distinctly 
visible,  the  striations  of  which  indicate  the  exact  course  the  great 
ice-field  must  have  once  taken.  Approaching  the  edge  of  the 


Photo,  by  Geo.  Fiske- 


THE  LADDERS— IN  WINTER. 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


453 


fall,  almost  before  we  have  glanced  at  its  diamond-fringed  lip,  we 
walk  up  to,  and  lean  upon,  a natural  balustrade  of  granite,  that 
seems  to  have  been  constructed  there  for  the  especial  benefit  of  weak  - 
nerved  people;  so  that  the  most  timid  can  look  over  it  into  the 
entrancing  abyss  beneath.  After  this  experience  many  have 
sufficient  nerve  to  stand  on  the  edge  near  the  side  of  the  fall,  espe- 
cially if  some  less  nervous  person  should  take  them  by  the  hand, 
and  thence  looking  down  the  entire  front  of  its  diamond-lighted, 
rocket-formed  surface,  follow  it  with  the  eye  to  the  pool  beneath. 
Sometimes  bright  rainbows  are  arching  the  spray  at  its  foot,  and 
which,  extending  from  bank  to  bank,  completely  bridge  the  bil- 
lowy mist  and  angry  foam  below.  But,  turning  away  from  these 
delightful  sights,  let  us  seek  the  “ Ladders,”  so  called  from  the 
original,  but  which  have  been  transformed  into  substantial  steps 
(to  which  the  old  term  “ ladders  ” still  clings),  by  which  we  can 
descend  to  Fern  Grotto,  on  our  way  to  the  foot  of  the  Vernal 
Fall  Wall. 

FERN  GROTTO. 

Here  a portion  of  the  mountain  has  been  removed,  and  left  a 
large  cave  or  grotto,  in  the  interstices  of  which  numerous  ferns, 
the  Adiantum  pedaturn,  mainly,  one  of  the  maiden  hair  species, 
formerly  grew  in  abundance ; but  constant  plucking  of  the  leaves, 
and  removal  of  the  roots,  have  shorn  it  of  its  fern-like  character, 
where  they  could  be  reached  without  danger.  A glance  at  the 
accompanying  engraving  will  enable  the  visitor,  measurably,  to 
conceive  the  superb,  fairy-like  creations  of  the  enchanter’s  wand 
to  be  found  here  in  winter.  Hours  might  be  pleasantly  spent 
at  this  spot,  but  we  must  hurry  through  the  spray  to  our  horses ; 
and  while  some  are  returning  to  the  hotel,  let  us  retrace  our  steps, 
at  least  in  imagination,  as  some  more  enthusiastic  natures  yearn 
to  see  what  there  is  of  interest  above  and  beyond  this ; and  which 
necessarily  forms  the  substance  of  the  ensuing  chapter. 


CHAPTER  XXYI. 


GRIZZLY  PEAK,  HALF  DOME,  AND  CLOUD’S  REST 

The  broad  blue  mountains  lift  their  brows 
Barely  to  bathe  them  in  the  blaze. 

— Harriet  Prescott  Spoeeord's  Daybreak. 

He  prov’d  the  best  man  i’  the  field;  and  for  his  meed 
Was  brow-bound  with  the  oak. 

— Shakespear’s  Coriolanus,  A ct  II,  Sc.  2. 

Round  its  breast  the  rolling  clouds  are  spread, 

Eternal  sunshine  settles  on  his  head. 

— Goldsmith’s  Deserted  Village. 


When  standing  on  the  bare  granite  in  front  of  Snow’s 
Hotel,  with  the  Nevada  Fall  and  Cap  of  Liberty  at  our  backs, 
not  only  are  the  Silver  Apron,  Emerald  Pool,  and  Glacier  Point 
(including  McCauley’s  house)  distinctly  visible  before  us;  but, 
looking  northwestwardly,  there  towers  up  the  bold,  rugged  point 
of  a mountain,  and  one  that  has  also  attracted  considerable 
attention  from  us  when  in  the  Valley,  that,  at  its  base,  is  skirted 
by  the  Anderson  Trail,  and  which  is  known  as 

GRIZZLY  PEAK. 

Seen  from  this  standpoint  it  resembles  an  immense  Moorish 
head,  with  a long,  prominent  nose,  formed  of  one  large  slab  of 
rock  set  edgewise,  with  dwarf  trees  for  eyebrows.  This,  and  the 
Cathedral  Spires,  are  the  only  points  upon  which  I have  never  set 
foot.  Mr.  Chas.  A.  Bailey  climbed  this  a year  ago,  and  has 
kindly  sent  me  the  following  account  of  his  difficult  feat: — 

Stimulated  by  the  assertion  that  Grizzly  Peak  had  never  been 
ascended  by  any  white  man,  I determined  to  attempt  it.  Leaving  Snow’s 
with  a stout  staff  and  a good  lunch,  I crept  up  a narrow  and  steep  ravine, 
flanked  by  the  great  Half  Dome,  to  a narrow  connecting  neck  between 
(454) 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


455 

the  latter  and  the  object  of  my  ambitious  climb.  This  was  attended  by 
many  a rough  scramble,  as  its  nearly  vertical  sides  loomed  up  like  a church 
steeple.  Crossing  the  neck  to  its  southerly  side^there  was  but  one  spot 
that  was  possibly  accessible,  and  this  was  made  so  only  by  the  aid  of 
friendly  bushes  that  grew  in  the  interstices  of  the  rock.  An  unbroken 
precipice  extended  from  the  edge  of  the  peak  to  the  Valley  on  one  side, 
but  which  developed  a slab-cleavage  of  granite  on  the  other,  the  edge  of 
which,  although  sharp,  was  rapidly  disintegrating;  but  this  I mounted, 
and,  by  striding,  clasping,  hitching,  and  crawling  along  it,  reached  its 
farther  and  upper  end  in  safety. 

Further  on  the  ascent  had  to  be  made  by  climbing  up  a narrow 
fissure,  by  pressing  my  knees  and  elbows  against  its  sides*  until  either 
finger  or  foothold  could  be  obtained.  This  passed,  a steeply  slanting  rock 
was  crossed  by  moving  over  it  with  a crawling  kind  of  motion,  where 
friction  and  the  force  of  gravitation  were  my  principal  helpers,  to  keep 
me  from  sliding  over  the  cliff.  As  a safeguard,  however,  I kept  my  eye 
on  some  projecting  slabs  below,  for  which  I intended  to  spring,  should  I 
unavoidably  slide  from  my  position.  Fortunately  I eventually  reached 
the  top,  some  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  the  Valley,  in  safety. 

The  glories  of  these  crags  seem  to  be  immeasurably  heightened  and 
deepened,  and  the  uplifting  peaks  made  grander  and  loftier,  when  their 
summits  are  attained  by  a hard  and  perilous  climb;  and  the  view  from 
Grizzly  Peak  was  so  unlike  that  I had  obtained  elsewhere,  that  the  very 
novelty  charmed  and  repaid  me.  Resting,  as  it  apparently  does,  in  the 
shadow  of  the  great  Half  Dome;  on  the  edge,  and  almost  projecting  over 
the  Merced  River,  its  position  is  commandingly  impressive.  Glacier 
Point,  though  seemingly  near,  with  a much  greater  altitude,  has  a won- 
derfully imposing  presence  from  this  standpoint.  Looking  east  and  south, 
Mt.  Broderick  (the  peak  next  westerly  from  the  Cap  of  Liberty),  Mt.  Clark, 
and  Mt.  Starr  King,  stand  grandly  out  above  their  lesser  mountain  brethren. 
From  here,  too,  a bird’s-eye  view  is  obtained  of  Snow’s,  which,  with  its 
surrounding  trees,  and  the  Emerald  Pool,  looks  like  a place  of  enchant- 
ment. Perhaps  the  finest  single  view  of  all  these  is  the  Too-lool-a-we- 
ack,  or  Glacier  Canon,  which  can  be  seen  for  its  entire  length;  with  its 
narrow  mountain-walled  channel,  its  numberless  bowlders,  its  dashing 
and  foaming  torrent,  and  its  distant  water-fall  of  some  four  hundred 
feet  at  the  end.  I fondly  hoped  to  get  a view  of  the  upper  falls;  this, 
however,  was  intercepted  by  a jutting  spur.  But  for  this  I could  have 
seen  the  four  great  water-falls  of  the  Valley  from  a single  standpoint— 
the  Vernal,  Nevada,  Too-lool-a-we-ack,  and  Yo  Semite — a spectacle  that 
would  have  been  unparalleled.  The  first  ascent  of  Grizzly  Peak  accom- 
plished, I left  my  card,  and  water  bottle,  as  mementos  of  my  visit. 


456 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


THE  HALF  DOME. 


Until  the  fall  of  1875  the  storm-beaten  summit  of  this  mao’- 

O 

nificent  landmark  was  a terra  incognita , as  it  had  never  been 
trodden  by  human  feet.  In  the  summer  of  1869  three  of  us  set 
out  for  the  purpose  of  climbing  it,  taking  the  ‘ 'Indian  escape  trail” 
north  of  Grizzly  Peak.  There  was  absolutely  no  trail  whatso- 
ever, as  we  had  to  walk  on  narrow  ledges,  and  hold  on  with 
our  feet  as  well  as  hands,  trusting  our  lives  to  bushes  and  jut- 
ting points  of 
rock.  In  some 
places  where  the 
ledges  of  rock 
were  high,  their 
tops  had  to  be 
reached  by  long 
broken  branches 
of  trees,  which 
the  Indians  used 
to  climb ; and, 
after  they  were 
up,  cut  off  the 
possibility  of 
pursuit  from  en- 
emies, by  pulling 
up  these  primi- 
tive ladders  after 
them.  Not  a 
drop  of  water 

could  we  find.  A snow  bank  increased  rather  than  diminished 
our  terrible  thirst.  Finally,  after  many  hair-breadtli  escapes, 
and  not  a little  fatigue,  we  reached  the  top  of  the  lower  dome, 
or  eastern  shoulder,  and  were  then  within  four  hundred  and  sixty 
feet,  vertically,  of  realizing  our  ambitious  hopes.  To  our  dismay, 
as  well  as  disappointment,  we  found  a great  smooth  mountain 


AN  “[NDIAN  ESCAPE  TRAIL. 


THE  10  SEMITE  VALLEY 


457 


before  us,  standing  at  an  angle  of  about  40°,  its  surface  over- 
laid and  overlapped,  so  to  speak,  with  vast  circular  granite 
shingles,  about  eighteen  inches  in  thickness.  There  was  not 

a place  to  set  a secure  foot  upon, 
or  a point  that  we  could  clutch 
with  our  fingers.  The  very  first 
sight  put  every  hope  to  flight 
of  reaching  its  exalted  summit  by 
the  means  at  our  command;  and, 
deeming  it  a simple  impossibility, 
uwe  surrendered  at  discretion,” 
and  returned  without  the  realiza- 
tion of  our  ambitious  hopes. 

Seven  years  after  this  an  athletic 
youth  informed  the  writer  that  he 
was  “going  to  climb  to  the  top  of 
the  Half  Dome.”  I quietly  sug- 
gested that  such  a feat  was  among 
the  doubtful  things  of  this  life. 
He  was  willing  to  bet  any  amount 
I informed  him  that  I was  not  a 
betting  man, — had  never  made  a bet  in  my  life,  and  was  too  old 
to  begin  now, — but,  if  he  would  put  a flag  upon  the  only  visible 
pine  tree  standing  there,  I would  make  him  a present  of  twenty 
dollars,  and  treat  him  and  his  friends  to  the  best  champagne 
dinner  that  could  be  provided  in  Yo  Semite.  Three  days  after 
this  he  walked  past  without  deigning  to  stop,  or  even  to  look  at 
us, — and  there  was  no  flag  floating  from  the  top  of  the  Half 
Dome  either ! 

This  honor  was  reserved  for  a brave  young  Scotchman,  a 
native  of  Montrose,  named  George  G.  Anderson,  who,  by  dint  of 
pluck,  skill,  unswerving  perseverance,  and  personal  daring, 
climbed  to  its  summit ; and  was  the  first  that  ever  successfully 
scaled  it.  This  was  accomplished  at  3 o’clock  p.  M.  of  October 
12,  1875. 


ASCENDING  THE  LOWER  DOME. 


that  he  could  accomplish  it. 


30 


458 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


The  knowledge  that  the  feat  of  climbing  this  grand  mount- 
ain had  on  several  occasions  been  attempted,  but  never  with  suc- 
cess, begat  in  him  an  irrepressible  determination  to  succeed  in 
such  an  enterprise.  Imbued  with  this  incentive,  he  made  his  way 
to  its  base ; and,  looking  up  its  smooth  and  steeply  inclined  sur- 
face, at  once  set  about  the  difficult  exploit.  Finding  that  he 
could  not  keep  from  sliding  with  his  boots  on,  he  tried  it  in  his  stock- 
ing feet ; but  as  this  did  not  secure  a triumph,  he  tried  it  barefooted, 
and  still  was  unsuccessful.  Then  he  tied  sacking  upon  his  feet 
and  legs,  but  as  these  did  not  secure  the  desired  object,  he  covered 
it  with  pitch,  obtained  from  pine  trees  near ; and  although  this 
enabled  him  to  adhere  firmly  to  the  smooth  granite,  and  effectu- 
ally prevented  him  from  slipping,  a new  difficulty  presented 
itself  in  the  great  effort  required  to  unstick  himself ; and  which 
came  near  proving  fatal  several  times. 

Mortified  by  the  failure  of  all  his  plans  hitherto,  yet  in  no 
way  discouraged,  he  procured  drills  and  a hammer,  with  some 
iron  eye-bolts,  and  drilled  a hole  in  the  solid  rock ; into  this  he 
drove  a wooden  pin,  and  then  an  eye-bolt;  and,  after  fastening  a 
rope  to  the  bolt,  pulled  himself  up  until  he  could  stand  upon  it; 
and  thence  continued  that  process  until  he  had  finally  gained  the 
top — a distance  of  nine  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet!  All 
honor,  then,  to  the  intrepid  and  skillful  mountaineer,  Geo.  G. 
Anderson,  who,  defying  and  overcoming  all  obstacles,  and  at  the 
peril  of  his  life,  accomplished  that  in  which  all  others  had  sig- 
nally failed;  and  thus  became  the  first  to  plant  his  foot  upon  the 
exalted  crown  of  the  great  Half  Dome. 

His  next  efforts  were  directed  towards  placing  and  securely 
fastening  a good  soft  rope  to  the  eye -bolts,  so  that  others  could 
climb  up  and  enjoy  the  inimitable  view,  and  one  that  has  not  its 
counterpart  on  earth.  Four  English  gentlemen,  then  sojourning 
in  the  Yalley,  learning  of  Mr.  Anderson’s  feat,  were  induced  to 
follow  his  intrepid  example.  A day  or  two  afterwards,  Miss  S. 
L.  Dutcher,  of  San  Francisco,  with  the  courage  of  a heroine, 
accomplished  it;  and  was  the  first  lady  that  ever  stood  upon  it. 


>»*u. 


Photo,  by  S.  C.  Walker, 


Photo-typo  by  Britton  « Rey,  S.  F. 


The  Half  oh  South  Dome— Tis-sa-ack. 

A Precipice  of  5,000  Feet,  with  Geo.  Anderson  Standing  on  it. 

(See  page  460.) 


Photo  by  S.  C.  Walker.  Pen  Sketch  by  Mrs.  Brodt. 

ANDERSON  ON  PRECIPICE  OF  HALF-DOME— 5,000  feet. 

(Looking  East  up  Ten-ie-ya  Canon.) 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


459 


In  July,  1876,  Miss  L.  E.  Pershing,  of  Pittsburg,  Pa.,  the 
writer,  and  three  others  found  their  way  there.  In  October  fol- 
lowing, six  persons,  among  them  a lady  in  her  sixty -fifth  year, 
and  a young  girl,  thirteen  years  of  age  (a  daughter  of  the 
writer),  and  two  other  ladies,  climbed  it  with  but  little  difficulty, 
after  Anderson  had  provided  the  way.  Since  then  very  many 
others  have  daringly  pulled  themselves  up;  and  enjoyed  the 
exceptionally  impressive  view  obtained  thence. 

The  summit  of  this  glorious  mountain  contains  over  ten 
acres,  where  persons  can  securely  walk,  or  even  drive  a carriage, 
could  such  be  transported  thither.  There  are  seven  pine  trees 
upon  it,  of  the  following  species:  Finns  Jejfreyi , P . monticolci, 
and  P.  contorta ; besides  numerous  shrubs,  grasses,  and  flowers. 
A ‘‘  chip-monk,”  some  lizards,  and  grasshoppers,  have  taken  up 
their  isolated  preemption  claims  there.  Two  sheep,  supposed  to 
have  been  frightened  by  bears,  once  scrambled  up  there;  to 
which  Mr.  Anderson  daily  carried  water,  until  they  were  event- 
ually lost  sight  of.  Their  bones  were  afterwards  discovered  side 
by  side,  in  a sheltered  hollow. 

The  commanding  position  of  the  Half  (or  South)  Dome  at 
the  head  of  the  Valley,  with  a vertical  altitude  above  it  of  nearly 
five  thousand  feet,  two-thirds  of  which  is  absolutely  in  the  zenith, 
makes  the  view  from  its  culminating  crest  inexpressibly  sublime. 
There  is  not  only  the  awe-inspiring  depth  into  which  one  can 
look,  where  everything  is  dwarfed  into  utter  insignificance,  but 
the  comprehensive  panorama  of  great  mountains  everywhere 
encompassing  us.  As  Yo  Semite,  confessedly,  has  not  its  emula- 
tive counterpart  on  earth,  so  is  this  view  the  culminating  crown 
of  scenic  grandeur,  that  is  utterly  without  a rival  upon  earth. 

When  sitting  upon  its  edge  our  feet  swing  over  a vortex  of 
five  thousand  feet;  and  if  we  can  imagine  forty-five  San  Fran- 
cisco Palace  Hotels  placed  on  top  of  each  other,  and  ourselves 
seated  upon  the  cornice  of  the  upper  one,  surrounded  by  mount- 
ain peaks,  deep  gorges,  beautiful  lakes,  and  vast  stretches  of  for- 
est, with  here  and  there  bright  pastures,  some  realizing  sense  of 
the  preeminently  glorious  scene  may  partially  be  conceived. 


460 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


Such  a position,  to  those  whose  nerves  had  not  been  disci- 
plined, might  be  trying  in  the  extreme,  if  not  impossible;  but  to 
those  whose  daily  life  brings  them  in  constant  and  familiar  con- 
tact with  such,  there  is  no  perceptible  nervousness  whatsoever; 
therefore  there  is  no  particular  merit  in  it.  In  1877  Mr.  Anderson, 
after  assisting  Mr.  S.  C.  Walker,  the  photographer,  and  the 
writer,  to  pack  up  all  the  photographic  apparatus  necessary  for 
taking  views  from  its  summit,  deliberately  placed  a large  flat  rock, 
projectingly,  on  the  margin  of  the  precipice,  and  stood  upright 
upon  it  while  the  photograph  was  taken ; one  of  his  feet  being 
over,  and  beyond  the  edge  eleven  inches,  as  presented  in  the 
accompanying  view,  taken  at  that  time.  Although  unsteadied 
and  unsupported,  not  a nerve  or  muscle  quivered. 

About  seventy  feet  from  the  face  of  the  Half  Dome  wall, 
there  is  a narrow  and  qearl'v  vertical  Assure,  several  hundred  feet 
in  depth  judging  from  the  time  stones  dropped  in  were  traveling 
to  the  bottom.  This  becomes  suggestive  that  ere  very  long  a new 
fracture  may  here  take  place. 

A THRILLING  ADVENTURE. 

During  the  severe  winter  of  1883-84  the  ice  and  snow  slid- 
ing' down  the  smooth  back  of  the  great  Half  Dome,  carried  with 
it  over  four  hundred  feet  of  the  rope  Anderson  had  put  up  with 
so  much  care  and  risk,  and  several  of  the  iron  eye-bolts  with  it. 
This  deprived  every  enthusiastic  climber  of  the  pleasure,  of 
ascending  to  its  wondrous  summit,  and  of  obtaining  the  une- 
qualed view  from  that  glorious  standpoint.  No  one  seemed 
imbued  with  sufficient  ambitious  courage  to  replace  it — Anderson 
having  passed  away  to  his  rest. 

But,  just  after  sunset,  one  evening  of  the  ensuing  summer, 
every  resident  of  the  Valley,  familiar  with  the  fact  of  the  rope’s 
removal,  was  startled  by  the  sight  of  a blazing  fire  upon  its  ut- 
most crest;  and  all  kinds  of  suppositious  theories  were  indulged 
in  concerning  such  phenomena.  No  one  knew  of  any  one  con- 
templating so  hazardous  a venture.  What  could  it  mean? 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


461 


Eventually  it  transpired  that  two  young  gentlemen,  who 
were  summering  in  the  Sierras,  hunting,  fishing,  reading,  and 
sketching,  had  been  missed  some  days  from  their  camping-ground 
in  the  Yalley;  and,  therefore,  there  was  the  possibility  that  these 
might  have  unknowingly  attempted  to  ascend  it,  and  succeeded. 
But  that  possibility  shared  the  companionship  of  another,  which 
filled  every  mind  with  consternation ; that  they  were  up  there, 
and  could  not  come  down;  that  the  fire  seen  was  at  once  a signal 
of  distress  as  well  as  of  success,  and  a call  for  help. 

Before  daylight  the  following  morning,  therefore,  four  of  us, 
well  supplied  with  ropes,  extra  bolts,  and  other  essentials,  were 
upon  the  way  for  their  deliverance.  At  Snow’s,  however,  we 
met  the  daring  adventurers;  and  found  that,  although  they  had 
made  the  perilous  climb  up,  they  had  also  accomplished  the  descent 
in  perfect  safety.  These  twin  heroes  were  Mr.  Alden  Sampson, 
of  New  York  City,  and  Mr.  A.  P.  Proctor,  of  Colorado. 

Grateful  for  the  intended,  though  unneeded  deliverance,  these 
young  gentlemen  very  thoughtfully  presented  themselves  at  the 
cabin,  to  tender  their  thanks,  and  express  their  acknowledgments 
of  the  good  services  premeditated;  when  Mr.  Sampson  kindly 
favored  me  with  the  following  recitative  of  their  danger-defying 
exploit : — 

Our  challenge,  if  I may  so  call  it,  to  make  the  ascent,  came  with  the 
first  inspiring  sight  of  the  Valley  and  of  the  Half  Home  beyond.  We 
were  traveling  in  the  saddle,  with  pack-animals,  camping  whenever  the 
outlook  was  finest,  or  wdien  we  could  find  grazing  or  a night’s  feed  at 
some  ranch  for  our  stock.  From  Wawona,  we  had  come  in  by  the  Glacier 
Point  trail,  and  had  pitched  camp  for  the  night  at  Glacier  Point.  Here 
we  had  the  good  fortune  to  meet  Mr.  Galen  Clark,  one  of  the  pioneers  of 
the  Valley,  and  in  answer  to  our  inquiries  as  to  the  view  from  the  Half 
Dome,  which  was  the  most  prominent  feature  of  the  landscape,  were  told 
that  there  had  formerly  been  a rope  to  the  summit,  put  up  by  Anderson, 
but  that  it  was  down,  and  would  probably  so  remain  until  some  venture- 
some member  of  the  English  Alpine  Club  should  come  along  and  have 
the  goodness  to  replace  it.  This  aspect  of  the  matter,  I must  own, 
galled  our  pride;  and  the  more  we  thought  it  over  the  less  we  liked  this 
solution  of  the  difficulty.  Should  we,  forsooth,  wait  for  foreign  sinew  to 
scale  for  us  a peak  of  the  American  Sierras?  Not  if  it  lay  in  our  power 
to  prevent  so  humiliating  a favor  ! But  we  did  not  by  any  means  decide 
then  that  we  would  make  the  ascent;  when  we  had  at  last  made  up  our 


462 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


minds  to  do  so,  we  quietly  reconnoitered  the  place,  and  made  all  neces- 
sary preparations  in  entire  secrecy,  so  that  no  one  should  have  the  satis- 
faction of  laughing  at  us  if  we  failed.  Then  taking  two  hundred  feet 
of  picket  rope,  a handful  of  lunch,  and  a lemon  apiece,  in  the  early 
morning  we  rode  from  our  camp  in  the  Little  Yo  Semite  to  the  base  of  the 
dome. 

Fortunately,  in  making  this  ascent,  my  companion  and  myself  supple- 
mented one  another’s  work.  He  could  throw  the  reata  like  a native  Cal- 
ifornian, so  that  when  a pin  was  not  over  thirty  feet  off,  he  would  be  sure 
to  ‘‘rope  it”  the  first  cast.  The  end  of  the  reata  once  fast,  one  of  us 
would  pull  himself  up  by  it,  then  stand  upon  the  pin,  ready  to  take  up 
and  make  fast  the  old  rope,  when  the  other  had  tied  the  lower  end  of  the 
reata  to  it.  But  after  a while  we  came  to  a clean  stretch  of  a hundred 
feet,  where  every  pin  had  been  carried  away;  yet,  at  this  point  a difficult 
corner  of  the  ledge  had  to  be  turned.  My  companion,  being  barefooted, 
found  that  he  could  not  cling  to  the  surface  as  well  as  I could,  with  hob 
nails  under  my  feet,  so  I had  the  pleasure  of  attempting  this  all  to  my- 
self. The  sensation  was  glorious.  I did  not  stake  my  life  upon  it,  for 
I was  sure  I could  make  it.  If  I had  slipj^ed  in  the  least  I should  have 
had  a nasty  fall  of  several  hundred  feet.  To  be  sure,  I was  playing  out 
a rope  behind  me  attached  to  my  waist,  but  supposing  I had  fallen,  with 
all  this  slack  below  me,  my  weight  would  have  snapped  it,  or  the  rope 
would  have  cut  me  in  two.  The  difficult  part  here  was  that  a point  had 
to  be  rounded  on  naked  granite,  that  was  both  steep  and  slippery;  not 
the  coarse,  rough  variety  that  one  sometimes  sees,  but  polished  by  beat- 
ing Sierra  storms,  and  .the  snow-slides  of  innumerable  winters.  In  the 
hardest  place  of  all,  a little  bunch  of  dwarf  Spirea , six  or  eight  inches 
high,  which  was  growing  in  a crevice,  gave  me  friendly  assistance.  What 
it  lived  on  up  there  I cannot  imagine,  as  it  grew  in  such  a narrow  crack 
of  the  ledge.  However,  its  roots  had  a tenacious  hold;  and  a piece  of 
partially  rotten  bale  rope  afforded  me  a pull  of  ten  or  twelve  pounds, 
quite  enough  to  steady  one  at  the  most  dangerous  moment. 

My  companion  exercised  great  skill  and  patience  in  making  throws  with 
the  reata,  often  having  to  sit  on  the  edge  of  a seemingly  perpendicular 
precipice,  morally  supported,  to  be  sure,  by  a rope  from  his  waist, 
attached  to  the  pin  below  him,  but  for  actual  physical  support  relying 
solely  upon  his  foothold  on  the  iron  eyebolt  under  his  feet.  I dare  say 
that  his  experience  in  one  thing  was  similar  to  my  own, — the  feeling  that 
when  he  clung  to  the  face  of  the  rock  it  was  seemingly  trying  to  push 
him  off  from  it.  We  succeeded  in  putting  up  about  half  the  rope  the  first 
day,  and  spent  the  night  at  our  camp  below.  In  the  afternoon  of  the 
second  day  we  came  to  a long,  smooth  stretch,  without  eyebolts  or  any- 
thing to  offer  assistance,  not  as  steep  as  we  had  encountered,  but  very 
slippery.  After  many  unsuccessful  attempts  to  lasso  the  first  pin  a hun- 
dred feet  away,  with  such  precarious  foot-hold  as  we  had,  nearly  two 
precious  hours  were  consumed,  and  the  task  was  apparently  hopeless, 
which  would  have  given  us  another  rather  dangerous  climb  without  any 
assistance  whatever  to  rely  upon;  at  last  by  a fortunate  cast  the  reata 
caught  the  distant  pin  firmly,  and  as  we  made  it  taut,  we  could  not  re- 
press a shout  of  joyful  exultation,  for  the  enemy  wTas  now  conquered  and 


Zigzags  to  Top  of  Keyada  Fall. 

(See  pac'e  463.) 


Photo,  by  Geo.  Fiske. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


463 


the  remainder  of  the  ascent  could  he  made  with  ease.  We  were  soon  upon 
the  summit,  signaling  those  that  we  thought  might  possibly  be  watch- 
ing us  from  below. 

CLOUD’S  LEST. 

As  intimated  elsewhere,  there  is  a singular  appropriateness 
in  the  name  of  this  grand  mountain  crest,  inasmuch  as  there  is 
frequently  a cloud  lingering  there  when  there  is  not  another  visi- 
ble in  the  firmament.  Seen  from  the  Valley  it  is  always  a point 
of  attractive  interest  especially  when  wreathed  in  storm.  It  is 
about  one  thousand  feet  higher  than  the  Half  Dome ; its  height 
being  six  thousand  feet  above  the  Valley. 

From  its  cloud-crested  top  one  vast  panorama  of  the  High 
Sierra,  embracing  an  area  over  fifty  miles  in  length,  is  opened  at 
our  feet.  Nestling  valleys,  pine-margined  lakes,  bleak  mountain 
peaks,  lonely  and  desolate,  and  deep  gorges  half  filled  with  snow, 
are  on  every  hand.  To  the  eastward,  above  the  timber  line, 
(here  about  10,800  feet  high),  stands  boldly  out  Mt.  Hoffman, 
10,872  feet  above  sea  level;  Mt.  Tuolumne,  11,000  feet;  Mt.  Gibbs, 
13,090  feet;  Mt.  Dana,  13,270  feet;  Mt.  Lyell,  13,220  feet;  Echo 
Peak,  11,231  feet;  Temple  Peak,  11,250  feet;  Cathedral  Peak, 
11,200  feet;  Mt.  Clark  (formerly  known  as  Gothic  Peak,  the 
Obelisk,  etc.),  11,295  feet;  Mt.  Starr  King,  9,105  feet,  with 
numerous  others  that  are  as  yet  nameless ; while  the  point  upon 
which  we  are  supposed  to  be  standing  (Cloud’s  Pest)  is  9,855  feet. 

Turning  our  eyes  westward,  we  look  down  upon  the  crown 
of  the  Half  Dome,  and  the  great  V alley  below.  But  who  can  paint 
the  haze-clothed  heights,  and  depths,  of  the  wonderful  scenes 
before  us?  Almost  at  our  feet,  6.000  feet  beneath  us,  sleeps 
Mirror  Lake;  yonder,  the  North  Dome,  the  Yo  Semite  Fall,  Eagle 
Peak,  El  Capitan,  Sentinel  Dome,  Glacier  Point,  and  many  others 
that  margin  the  glorious  Yo  Semite.  Verily  this  view  must  be 
seen  to  be  even  partially  realized. 

The  way  to  these  wondrous  scenes  is ‘past  the  base  of  the 
Cap  of  Liberty,  up  a somewhat  steep  ascent;  at  the  right  of 
which  a splendid  side  view  of  the  Nevada  Fall  is  obtained.  At 


464 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


the  top  of  the  “zigzags”  the  horses  should  be  tied,  and  a tramp 
taken  of  about  two  hundred  yards  to 

THE  UPPEK  LIP  OF  THE  NEVADA  FALL. 

Here  the  Merced  River,  for  some  distance,  forms  a series  of 
rapids,  near  the  edge  of  which  are  numerous  patches  of  bare, 
glacier-polished  granite.  Leaving  these  on  our  left,  we  seek  the 
edge  of  the  cliff,  over  which  the  Nevada  is  making  its  marvelous 
leap . On  the  way  we  see  a singular  botanical  freak  of  nature, 
known  as 


THE  UMBRELLA  TREE. 


It  is  a Douglas  spruce,  Pseudo  tsuga  Douglasii.  Just  beyond 
this  we  can  stand  on  the  edge  of  the  precipice;  but,  as  it  is  flat, 
nearly  all  lie  down  to  take  a soul-filling  glimpse  of  the  awe- 
inspiring majesty  and  glory  beneath.  The  fall,  almost  directly 
after  it  daringly  leaps  its  rocky  rim,  strikes  the  inclining  wall, 
and  apparently  forms  into  a wavy  mass  of  curtain-like  folds, 
composed  from  top  to  bottom  of  diamond  lace ; now  draping  this 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


465 


side,  then  lifted,  as  by  fairy  hands,  to  the  other.  The  base,  as 
though  it  would  make  the  whole  scene  a miniature  heaven,  and 
through  it  lead  men  to  the  outer  footstool  of  the  Almighty  throne, 
is  spanned  with  gorgeous  rainbows ; while  the  beautiful  river  hur- 
ries on,  and  the  grand  mountains  around  stand  sentinel  forever. 

About  a mile  beyond  we  enter  the  Little  Yo  Semite  Valley, 
at  the  head  of  which,  some  three  miles  distant,  is  a sugar-loaf- 
shaped  mountain,  and  a cascade  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in 
length,  down  which  the  Merced  River  rushes  at  an  angle  of  about 
20°.  Just  beyond  this  a bold  bluff,  a thousand  feet  in  height 
above  the  river,  juts  across  the  entire  upper  end,  the  top  of  which 
is  highly  polished  by  glaciers ; and  around  it  every  hollow  is  filled 
with  the  detritus  of  old  moraines. 

The  picturesque  Little  Yo  Semite  left  behind,  with  its  glacier- 
polished  mountains  around  it,  our  course  hence,  to  both  Half 
Dome  and  Cloud’s  Rest,  is,  for  the  most  part,  over  old  moraines, 
where  bowlders  from  every  conceivable  texture  of  granite,  totally 
unlike  that  which  forms  the  base  here,  are  strewn  on  every  hand. 
Those  who  have  entertained  a doubt  about  ancient  glaciers  hav- 
ing once  covered  the  whole  broad  field  of  the  Sierras,  can  here  find 
evidence  beyond  question  to  dispel  it. 

As  we  journey  upward  and  onward,  new  mountain  peaks 
and  spurs  and  ranges  come  into  view ; while  flowers  of  every  hue 
bloom  at  our  side.  The  one  most  conspicuous  of  all,  however,  is 

the  snow  plant  of  the  sierras  (Sar  codes  sanguined). 

This  blood-red  and  strikingly  attractive  flower  is  to  be  seen 
upon  every  route  to  the  Big  Trees  and  Yo  Semite  Yalley,  as  upon 
nearly  every  trail  or  by-path  in  or  around  them,  at  an  elevation 
above  sea  level,  ranging  from  four  to  eight  thousand  feet;  its 
brilliant,  semi-translucent  stem,  and  bells,  and  leaves  that  inter- 
twine among  the  bells,  being  all  blood-red,  their  constituents 
seemingly  of  partially  crystallized  sugar,  make  it  the  most  con- 
spicuously beautiful  flower  born  of  the  Sierras. 

From  the  common  name  it  bears  might  come  the  impression 


466 


IN'  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


that  its  birthplace  is  among  Sierran  snows,  but  this  is  not  the 
case;  for,  although  its  growth  and  early  development  is  beneath 
deep  banks  of  snow,  it  seldom  shows  its  blood-red  crown  until 
some  days  after  the  snow  has  melted  away. 

Many  eminent  botanists  consider  this  a parasitic  plant,  some 
affirming  that  it  grows  only  upon  a cedar  root  (Libocedrus  de- 
curren s)in  & certain  stage  of  decay;  but  these  deductions  may 
have  been  made  from  the  close  resemblance  in  outline  of  the 
Barcodes  sanguinea  with  the  Boschniakia  strobilacea , which  is 
positively  a parasitic  flower,  that  prefers  the  manzanita  as  its 
host.  I haye,  however,  seen  this  floral  gem  flourishing  over  a 
thousand  feet  above  the  habitat  of  cedars;  and,  after  carefully 
digging  up  over  twenty  specimens,  could  find  no  indication 
whatever  of  their  parasitic  character. 

The. height  of  its  panicled  blossom  above  ground  is  from 
seven  to  sixteen  inches,  with  a diameter  of  from  two  to  four 
inches ; its  bulb-root  extending  as  far  down  into  the  earth  as  the 
flower  is  above  it.  When  digging  up  specimens,  therefore,  this 
fact  should  be  remembered;  as  to  break  them  off — and  they  are 
exceedingly  brittle- — is  to  spoil  them. 

THE  SNOW  PLANT  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 

On  those  eternal  peaks  where  winter  reigns, 

And  cold  and  frosts  their  icy  splendors  shed, 

Like  drops  of  blood  on  pallid  banks  of  snow, 

This  hyacinthine  blossom  lifts  its  head, 

A pyramid  of  tiny  tongues  of  flame 

Darting  from  out  the  rifts  of  dazzling  white — 

A strange,  bright  phantom,  born  of  ice  and  fire, 

Flushing  pale  wastes  with  gleams  of  crimson  light. 

’Tis  said  that  when  a holy  man  of  old, 

Bearing  the  cross,  on  sacred  mission  bent, 

Beheld  upon  the  mountain’s  snowy  crest 
This  blood-red  flower— his  pious  fancy  lent 

A charm  miraculous,  and,  kneeling  there 
In  adoration,  on  the  mountain-side, 

With  heavenward  gaze  and  hands  upraised  in  prayer, 

“ Sangre  de  Cristo ” — blood  of  Christ — he  cried! 

—Sarah  J.  Pettixos. 


The  California  Sno¥  Plant 


(Sarcodes  sanguined.) 
Onf.-Third  Natural  Size. 


CHAPTER  XXYII. 

GLACIER  POINT,  AND  ITS  GALAXY  OF  GLORIES. 

Acuse  not  Nature,  she  hath  done  her  part; 

Do  thou  but  thine. 

— Milton’s  Paradise  Lost,  Bk.  VIII,  Line  561 . 

The  pleasantest  things  in  the  world  are  pleasant  thoughts,  and  the  great  art 
of  life  is  to  have  as  many  of  them  as  possible. 

— Bovee’s  Summaries  of  Thought . 

Beauty  was  lent  to  nature  as  the  type 

Of  Heaven’s  unspeakable  and  holy  joy, 

Where  all  perfection  makes  the  sum  of  bliss. 

— S.  J.  Hale. 

Supposing  that  we  are  not  over-fatigued,  and  that  the  cham- 
pagne atmosphere  we  are  drinking  daily  is  becoming  to  us  the 
fabled  fountain  of  perpetual  youth,  let  us  attempt  the  ascent  of 
the  Glacier  Point  Trail,  to  Glacier  Point  and  Sentinel  Dome,  and 
look  upon  the  imperishable  grandeur  there  portrayed. 

Seeking  the  entrance  to  the  horse-path  at  the  back  of  the  lit- 
tle chapel,  we  commence  the  ascent.  Formerly,  the  glorious  scenes 
we  are  about  to  witness  were  denied  to  the  many  on  account  of 
the  difficulty,  danger,  and  fatigue  attending  the  climb ; as  it  had 
to  be  made  on  foot,  and  up  a trailless  mountain-side,  where  rocky 
points  had  to  be  carefully  surmounted,. and  dense  masses  of  shrub- 
bery defiantly  overcome.  Still,  with  all  the  numerous  obstacles 
impeding  the  journey,  it  was  occasionally  accomplished.  Now, 
however,  through  the  enterprise  and  perseverance  of  Mr.  James 
McCauley,  a wide,  safe,  easy  graded,  and  remarkably  pictur- 
esque trail,  zigzags  the  mountain  from  base  to  summit. 

At  almost  every  turning  new  and  enchantingly  picturesque 
scenes  are  revealed  between,  or  over,  the  tops  of  trees  and  shrubs 
that  margin  our  way,  until  we  arrive  at 


(467) 


468 


IN'  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


UNION  POINT, 

And  an  elevation  of  two  thousand  three  hundred  and  thirty- 
five  feet  above  the  Valley.  Here  let  us  dismount,  and  while  our 
horses  are  resting  and  breathing,  enjoy  the  wonderful  sight.  It 
will  be  seen  that  now  we  are  on  an  elevated  flat  or  table,  formed 
by  nature,  on  the  edge  of  the  mountain  from  whence  the  whole 
panorama  of  the  lower  end  and  middle  of  the  Yo  Semite  is  vis- 
ible. The  Sentinel,  Cathedral  Spires,  El  Capitan,  Eagle  Point, 
Yo  Semite  Falls,  and  other  points  of  interest,  with  all  the 
serpentine  windings  of  the  Merced  River,  are  strikingly  seen. 

THE  AGASSIZ  COLUMN. 

Near  the  trail  at  Union  Point  there  is  a rock  standing  on 
end,  like  a huge  ten-pin,  some  thirty  feet  in  height,  and  ten  in 
thickness.  It  looks  as  though  a good  strong  breeze  would  blow 
it  over,  but  which  has  thus  far  successfully  withstood  all  storms 
and  earthquakes.  It  is  known  as  the  Agassiz  Column.  From 
Union  Point  we  make  a detour  to  the  eastward,  on  a foot-trail,  to 

MORAN  POINT, 

Whence  the  whole  upper  end  of  the  Valley,  with  all  its  sublime 
scenes,  can  be  witnessed  to  excellent  advantage.  The  great  Half 
Dome,  Cloud’s  Rest,  North  Dome,  Mirror  Lake,  the  Ten-ie-ya 
Canon,  and  many  other  views,  are  here  before  us.  Remounting 
our  now  rested  steeds,  we  steadily  climb,  filled  with  admiring 
wonder  at  every  step  as  we  advance,  until,  at  last,  we  are  at 

THE  GLACIER  POINT  HOUSE. 

Here  let  me  introduce  you  to  its  proprietor,  Mr.  J ames  Mc- 
Cauley, a stalwart  son  of  Erin,  whose  every  feature  bespeaks 
progressive  energy  and  irrepressible  determination.  It  is  to  him, 
and  to  those  qualities,  that  we  are  indebted  for  the  Glacier  Point 
Trail.  He  was  its  architect  and  builder;  and  its  proprietor  until 
it . was  purchased  by  the  State.  Mr.  McCauley  is  the  fortunate 
possessor  of  an  excellent  wife,  and  two  healthy  sons,  twins, 
and  the  first  ever  born  of  wdiite  parents  in  Yo  Semite.  Mrs. 


(See  page  468.) 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


469 


McCauley,  among  other  good  qualities,  is  an  excellent  cook ; and 
prepares  for  guests  as  nice,  clean,  and  relishable  a meal  as  could 
be  obtained  at  any  first-class  city  hotel.  Try  it.  But,  while 
lunch  is  preparing,  let  us  seek 

THE  VIEW  FROM  THE  HOTEL  PORCH. 

The  broad  sweep  of  the  great  chain  of  the  High  Sierra  is 
directly  before  us;  and,  apparently,  so  boldly  near  that  one  feels 
he  could  hold  converse  with  any  adventurous  climber  that  might 
be  seen  upon  either  of  their  crests.  A glance  at  the  accompany- 
ing engraving  will  give  but  a faint  impression  only  of  the  glori- 
ous scene.  Once  looked  upon,  the  memory  of  its  sublime  impres- 
siveness will  remain  an  exalted  mystery  forever.  Leaving  this, 
therefore,  for  a frequently  recurring  feast,  let  us  repair  to 

GLACIER  POINT. 

Here  we  are  on  the  edge  of  an  abyss  three  thousand  two 
hundred  and  fifty-seven  feet  deep,  with  all  its  wondrous  environ- 
ments on  every  hand.  As  Derrick  Dodd  expresses  it  in  his 
“ Summer  Saunterings:”  “It  is  something  to  stop  the  beatings  of 
a chamois’  heart  to  lean  over  the  iron  railing,  aet  between  two 
verge-topling  bowlders  on  the  peak’s  brink,  and  glance  down 
into  the  bottomless,  awful  gulf  below.  It  causes  spiders  of  ice 
to  crawl  down  one’s  spine.”  Large  trees,  two  hundred  feet  high, 
are  dwarfed  to  utter  insignificance.  The  little  checker-board- 
like spot  first  attracting  notice,  possibly,  isLamon’s  apple  orchard 
of  four  acres,  and  which  contains  over  five  hundred  trees,  set 
regularly  twenty  feet  apart.  The  other  cultivated  point, 
formed  by  the  junction  of  Ten-ie-ya  Creek  with  the  Merced 
River,  is  Lamon’s  other  orchard.  The  bright  speck  which  throws 
out  its  silvery  sheen  in  that  deep,  tree-dotted  canon  is  Mirror 
Lake,  and  although  the  great  sweep  of  the  northern  rim  of  the 
Valley  is  before  us,  with  its  multitudinous  crags  and  rents,  the 
Half  Dome,  as  omnipresent  as  ever,  overshadows  and  eclipses  every 
lesser  object. 


KEY  TO  THE  HIGH  SIERRA  FROM  GLACIER  POINT  HOTEL. 


Irey  Mountain. 
:ed  Mountain. 


It.  Starr  King. 


Clark. 


Cloud’s  Resm 
Half,  or 
South  Dome. 


Mt-Ten-ie-ya 


Mt,  Maclwre. 
Mt.  Florenca 
VI  t,  Lyeil. 


2ap  of  Liberty. 


i/lt  Ritter. 


Photo,  by  Geo.  fiske.  Photo-typo  by  Britton  & Rey 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


471 


DERRICK  DODD’S  TOUGH  STORY. 

As  a part  of  the  usual  programme,  we  experimented  as  to  the  time 
taken  by  different  objects  in  reaching  the  bottom  of  the  cliff.  An  ordi- 
nary stone  tossed  over  remained  in  sight  an  incredibly  long  time,  but 
finally  vanished  somewhere  about  the  middle  distance.  A handkerchief 
with  a stone  tied  in  the  corner,  was  visible  perhaps  a thousand  feet 
deeper;  but  even  an  empty  box,  watched  by  a field-glass,  could  not  be 
traced  to  its  concussion  with  the  Valley  floor.  Finally,  the  landlord 
appeared  on  the  scene,  carrying  an  antique  hen  under  his  arm.  This,  in 
spite  of  the  terrified  ejaculations  and  entreaties  of  the  ladies,  he  deliber- 
ately threw  over  the  cliff’s  edge.  A rooster  might  have  gone  thus  to  his 
doom  in  stoic  silence,  but  the  sex  of  this  unfortunate  bird  asserted  itself 
the  moment  it  started  on  its  awful  journey  into  space.  With  an  ear- 
piercing cackle,  that  gradually  grew  fainter  as  it  fell,  the  poor  creature 
shot  downward;  now  beating  the  air  with  ineffectual  wings,  and  now  fran- 
tically clawing  at  the  very  wind,  that  slanted  her  first  this  way  and  then 
that;  thus  the  hapless  fowl  shot  down,  down,  until  it  became  a mere  fluff 
of  feathers  no  larger  than  a quail.  Then  it  dwindled  to  a wren’s  size,  dis- 
appeared, then  again  dotted  the  sight  a moment  as  a pin’s  point,  and  then 
— it  was  gone! 

After  drawing  a long  breath  all  round,  the  women  folks  pitched  into 
the  hen’s  owner  with  redoubled  zest.  But  the  genial  McCauley  shook 
his  head  knowingly,  and  replied: — 

“ Don’t  be  alarmed  about  that  chicken,  ladies.  She’s  used  to  it.  She 
goes  over  that  cliff  every  day  during  the  season.” 

And,  sure  enough,  on  our  road  back  we  met  the  old  hen  about  half 
up  the  trail,  calmly  picking  her  way  home!!  (?) 


D.  D.,  you  are  a trump.  Mark  Twain  could  not  beat  that 
story — except,  perhaps,  the  one  about  a mean  man  in  “ Roughing 
It,”  where  the  boss  deducted  ten  minutes  from  a miner’s  time, 
after  being  tossed  up  by  a premature  blast,  for  being  absent  in. 
the  air  that  long  from  his  work ! 

Our  enjoyable  midday  repast  being  over,  let  us  now  ride  to 
the  summit  of 

SETINEL  DOME. 

This  is  four  thousand  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the 
meadows  of  Yo  Semite.  It  is  a striking  landmark,  and  as  its 
crown  is  almost  as  clear  of  trees  as  though  a tornado  had  swept 


472 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


ruthlessly  across  it,  the  view  in  every  direction  is  entirely  unob- 
structed The  vast  amphitheater  of  the  Sierras  is  before  us.  Did 
time  permit  us  we  might  profitably  tarry  here  for  hours,  or  even 
days  as  new  beauties  would  be  opening,  and  strange  forms  made 
manifest  on  every  side  and  at  every  moment.  But  the  rapidly 
declining  sun  admonishes  us  not  to  linger  too  long,  if  it  is  our  fixed 
purpose  to  return  to  the  Valley  in  time  for  the  evening  meal. 

If  our  spirit  of  enjoyment  could  be  consulted,  and  the  rich 
scenic  feast  could  be  prolonged,  we  should  tarry  here  until  sunset, 
as  the  effects  from  this  lofty  eminence  are  not  only  magical  and 
majestic,  but  are  simply  glorious;  then,  after  spending  the  night 
at  Glacier  Point,  watch  the  streaming  tails  of  mighty  comets, 
that  come  at  day-dawn  to  herald  approaching  morn  from  among 
the  snow-clad  peaks  and  forest  heights  of  the  Sierras. 

Then,  after  an  appetizing  breakfast,  we  can  visit  the  “ Fis- 
sures,” some  three  miles  distant,  and  then  make  an  early  return 
to  the  Valley;  or,  journey  upon  its  southern  rim  through  prime- 
val forests,  across  grassy  meadows,  and  adown  flower-covered 
slopes,  to  Inspiration  Point,  Mt.  Beatitude,  and  the  Standpoint  of 
Silence;  thence  to  the  Valley  by  the  Wawona  Hoad,  and  live  over 
again  its  marvelous  scenes.  This,  believe  me,  is  a glorious  jaunt. 
But,  if  it  is  preferred,  we 

CAN  RE-ENTER  THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY  VIA  SNOW’S. 

The  views  upon  either  of  the  routes  suggested  are  so  utterly 
unlike  any  others,  here  or  elsewhere,  that  their  very  novelty 
doubles  the  charm  of  looking  upon  them.  Take,  for  instance,  the 
view  of  the  Half  Dome  from  the  Snow  trail.  It  is  so  unlike  any 
other  of  this  marvelous  mountain  that  it  might  be  most  readily 
adjudged  a different  one.  From  this  standpoint  it  is  a sugar-loaf 
in  granite,  as  no  portion  of  its  vertical  cleavage  is  anywhere  visible- 

Then,  presently,  we  come  to  the  yawning  gulf  of  the  Too- 
lool-a-we-ack  Canon  beneath  us,  with  its  four  hundred  feet 
water-fall ; and  follow  the  wave-tossed  cataract  it  is  forming,  with 
our  eye,  down  the  entire  length  of  the  gorge.  Soon  thereafter 


TIIE  YO  SEMITE  Y ALLEY 


473 


we  are  riding  on 
the  top  of  Echo 
Wall,  nearly  three 
thousand  feet 
above  the  mighty 
chasm  of  the  Mer- 
ced River;  and 
then  thread  our 
way  among  the 
troughs,  or  across 
the  ridges  of  bowl- 
der-built moraines 
which  form  the 
lower  base  of 

MT.  STARR  KING. 

Did  time  and  op- 
portunity permit, 
we  might  climb  to 
its  shoulder,  and 
thence  obtain  that 
magnificent  view ; 


but  could  not  go 

b vond  this  with-  THE  SOUTH  P0ME  AS  SEEN  ER0M  T00-L00L'A'WE'ACK’  0R 

. GLACIER  CANON. 

out  jeoparding  life 

and  limb.  Less  than  a dozen  persons  have  been  able  to  ascend  it. 
The  first  to  do  so  was  Mr.  Geo.  B.  Bayley  and  Mr.  E.  fe.  Schuyler , 
followed  by  Geo.  Anderson  and  the  writer,  a few  days  afterwards, 
who,  having  attached  ropes  over  difficult  places,  enabled  Mrs.  A. 
L.  Hutchings  and  our  daughter  Florence  to  ascend  it,  who  were 
the  first  and  only  ladies,  at  this  writing,  that  have  accomplished 
the  difficult  task.  Its  crest  is  five  thousand  one  hundred  and 
seventy -one  feet  above  Yo  Semite  Valley,  and  nine  thousand  one 
hundred  and  five  feet  above  sea  level. 

Soon  the  Nevada  Falls,  Cap  of  Liberty,  Half  Dome,  and 


474 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


THE  TOO-LOOL-A-WE  ACK,  OR  05 LACIER  CANON  FALL  (400  feet  high). 


other  familiar  points,  come  into  review,  and  not  long  afterwards 
we  are  at  Snow’s,  and  on  the  great  trail  thoroughfare  to  the 
Valley. 

Before  taking  our  farewell  of  Glacier  Point,  it  should  be 
remarked  that  the  Yo  Semite  Stage  and  Turnpike  Company 
has  constructed  an  excellent  and  highly  picturesque  carriage  road, 
from  the  Wawona  Turnpike  at  Chinquapin  Flat  to  Glacier  Point; 
thus  affording  the  opportunity  of  looking  upon  its  wondrous  sights, 
to  those  who  could  not  make  the  ascent  on  horseback.  Many  visi- 
tors ride  up  the  Glacier  Point  Trail  and  take  the  western-bound 
stage  thence ; but,  where  it  is  preferred,  visitors  can  go  direct  from 
Chinquapin  Flat,  by  coach,  to  Glacier  Point,  and  thence  down 
the  trail  to  Yo  Semite — a severe  experience  to  those  unaccustomed 
to  the  saddle. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


THE  UPPER  YO  SEMITE,  EAGLE  PEAK,  LAKE  TEN-IE-YA, 
AND  HIGH  SIERRA. 

I love  to  wander  through  the  woodlands  hoary 
In  the  soft  light  of  an  autumnal  day, 

When  summer  gathers  up  her  robes  of  glory, 

And  like  a dream  of  beauty  glides  away. 

— Sarah  Helen  Whitman. 

I hear  the  muffled  tramp  of  years 
Come  stealing  up  the  slope  of  Time; 

They  bear  a train  of  smiles  and  tears, 

Of  burning  hopes  and  dreams  sublime. 

— James  G.  Clarke. 

Hills  peep  o’er  hills,  and  Alps  on  Alps  arise. 

— Pope’s  Essay  on  Criticism. 

When  undertaking  the  delightful  jaunt  now  proposed,  we 
repair  to  the  north  side  of  the  Valley,  and  enter  upon  the  Eagle 
Peak  Trail.  This  was  engineered  and  constructed  by  Mr.  John 
Conway  and  sons,  who  performed  a very  valuable  service  to  the 
public  by  opening  up  very  many  of  the  magnificent  scenes  we 
are  about  to  witness,  and  that  were  before  sealed  from  human 
vision;  but  for  which,  I regret  to  say,  no  adequate  compensa- 
tion was  returned  them. 

As  we  zigzag  our  way  up  it  by  an  easy  grade,  stunted  live- 
oaks  offer  grateful  shade,  and  manzanita  and  wild  lilac  bushes 
border  it  on  either  side.  Trees,  buildings,  gardens,  cattle,  and 
horses  grow  gradually  more  diminutive ; while  surrounding  gran- 
ite walls  tower  up  bolder  and  higher.  In  peaceful  repose  sleeps 
the  Valley,  its  carpet  of  green  cut  up,  perhaps,  by  pools  of  shin- 
ing water,  and  the  serpentine  course  of  the  river  resembles  a 
huge  silver  ribbon.  At  an  elevation  of  1,154  feet  we  rest  at 

(475) 


476 


IN  TIIE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


COLUMBIA  ROCK, 

And  thence  look  down  upon  the  enchanting  panorama  that  lies 
before  us.  Every  thing  visible  below  has  become  dwarfed ; while 
in  the  far-away  distance  above  and  beyond  us,  mountain  peaks 
are  constantly  revealing  themselves  impressively,  one  after  the 
other.  Remounting,  we  ascend  a little,  then  ride  along  a broad 
ledge  of  granite  that,  from  the  Valley,  appears  to  be  far  too 
narrow  for  a horse  and  its  rider  to  travel  upon  in  safety ; but, 
finding  ourselves  mistaken,  we  presently  arrive  at 

TRANSPORT  POINT. 

Here  the  horses  are  again  left  upon  the  trail,  while  we  foot  our 
way  to  the  edge  of  the  overhanging  wall,  that,  from  below 
looked  so  formidable  a precipice.  From  this  standpoint,  not  only 
can  the  entire  length  of  the  lower  Yo  Semite  Fall  be  seen;  but 
the  interjacent  depths  and  irregularities  of  the  intervening  canon 
between  the  top  of  the  lower,  and  foot  of  the  upper  fall ; while  in 
front  of  us  the  entire  Upper  Yo  Semite  Fall  is  in  full  view. 
Charmingly  attractive  as  this  scene  may  be,  we  naturally  wish  to 
seek  a closer  communion  with  its  glories,  and  cannot  rest  until 
we  are  almost 

BENEATH  THE  UPPER  YO  SEMITE  FALL. 

Speechless  with  reverential  awe,  we  have  reached  the  won- 
derful goal.  But,  alas!  who  can  describe  it?  who  fittingly  tell 
of  its  wonderful  beauties,  or  describe  its  manifold  glories,  and 
majestic  presence?  It  is  impossible.  We  look  upward,  and  we 
see  an  avalanche  of  water  about  to  bury  us  up,  or  sweep  us  into 
the  abyss  beneath.  By  degrees  we  take  courage;  and,  climbing 
the  watery  mass  with  our  eye,  discern  its  remarkable  changes 
and  forms.  Now  it  would  seem  that  numerous  bands  of  fun- 
loving  fairies  have  set  out  for  a frolic;  and,  assuming  the  shape  of 
watery  rockets,  have  entered  the  fall;  and,  after  making  the 
leap,  are  now  playing  “ hide-and-seek”  with  each  other  among 
its  watery  folds ; now  chasing,  now  catching ; then,  with  retreat- 
ing surprises,  disappearing  from  view,  and  re-forming,  or  chang- 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


477 


ing,  shoot  again  into  sight.  While  the  wind,  as  if  shocked  at 
such  playful  irreverence,  takes  hold  of  the  white  diamond  mass, 
and  lifts  it  aside  like  a curtain;  when  each  rocket-formed  fairy, 
leaping  down  from  its  folds,  first  fringes  its  edge,  then  disappears 
from  our  sight,  and  is  lost  among  rainbows  and  clouds. 

The  first  great  vertical  leap  of  this  fall  being  fifteen  hun- 
dred feet,  makes  it  scarcely  less  impressive  than  El  Capitan,  when 
standing  against  the  wall  at  its  foot  Just  at  the  back  of,  and 
immediately  beneath  it,  there  is  a cave  some  forty  feet  in  depth. 
As  the  fall  itself  veils  the  entrance  to  this  cave,  it  can  only 
be  entered  when  the  stream  is  low ; or,  as  not  infrequently  hap- 
pens, when  the  wind  has  sufficient  force  to  lift  the  entire  fall 
to  one  side.  On  one  of  these  occasions  two  venturesome  young 
men,  who  had  climbed  to  the  foot  of  the  cliff,  seeing  the  entrance 
to  the  cave  clear,  ran  into  it ; but  they  had  scarcely  entered  when 


Photo,  by  C.  E.  Watkins. 


CAVE  AT  THE  BASE  OF  THE  UPPER  YO  SEMITE  FALL. 


478 


IN  THE  HEART  OE  THE  SIERRAS. 


the  fall,  returning  to  its  normal  position,  filled  the  aperture 
with  dense  and  comminuted  spray,  which  made  it  next  to  impos- 
sible to  breathe,  while  effectually  cutting  off  their  retreat.  In 
this  nearly  fatal  dilemma  they  were  helpless ; but,  fortunately,  the 
wind  again  swept  its  folds  to  one  side,  and  they  lost  no  time  in 
effecting  their  perilous  escape.  When  relating  their  hazardous 
feat,  they  both  made  voluntary  confession  never  to  be  caught  at 
so  foolish  and  so  dangerous  an  experiment  again ! 

Leaving  this  interesting  and  truly  captivating  spot,  we  con- 
tinue our  crinkled  way  up  the  debris  lying  at  the  base  of  Eagle 
Tower  wall  (vertical  for  1,600  feet),  passing  flowers  and  flower- 
ing shrubs,  to  enter  into  the  refreshing  shade  of  a grove  of  yel- 
low pines,  Pinus  Jeffrey i,  and  soon  thereafter  find  ourselves 
at  the 

TOP  OF  YO  SEMITE  FALL. 

The  current  of  this  stream  is  very  irregular.  For  nearly 
half  a mile  it  has  a speed  of  about  eight  knots  an  hour ; then, 
for  about  two  hundred  yards  from  the  lip  of  the  mountain,  it 
leaps  over  a broken  series  of  ledges  into  eddying  pools,  from 
which  it  swirls,  and  swashes,  and  jumps,  until  it  makes  its  final 
bound  over  the  precipice,  and  is  lost  to  view.  For  about  ten  yards 
back  of  the  edge,  the  gray  granite  is  so  smooth  that,  lying  down 
upon  it,  clingingly,  when  the  stream  is  absent,  it  would  be  impos- 
sible to  prevent  sliding  over  the  brink,  but  for  a narrow  crack 
in  the  rock  where  there  is  finger-hold.  This  enables  us  to  cling 
sufficiently,  until  we  can  work  our  way  to  a flattish,  basin-like 
hollow,  in  safety;  whence  one  can  creep  out  to  the  margin  of  the 
abyss,  and  look  down  into  it.  My  measurement  here,  by  aneroid 
barometer,  made  its  height  above  the  Valley  two  thousand  six 
hundred  and  forty  feet.  Its  breadth  at  the  lip  is  thirty-four  feet; 
and,  twenty  feet  above  it,  seventy  feet.  One  position  on  a pro- 
jecting ledge  enables  the  eye  to  follow  this  water-fall  from  top  to 
base,  and  watch  the  ever-changing  colors  of  its  rainbow  hues  the 
entire  distance. 

From  this  point  it  is  a most  delightful  forest  ride  to  Eagle 


TIIE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


479 


Meadows,  their  grassy  glades,  and  pools  covered  with  bright  yellow 
water-lilies,  Huphar  polysepalum , and  thence  to 

EAGLE  PEAK. 

This  was  so  named  from  its  being  such  a favorite  resort  of 
this  famous  bird  of  prey.  I once  saw  seven  eagles  here,  at  play; 
they  would  skim  out  upon  the  air,  one  following  the  other, 
and  then  swoop  perpendicularly  down  for  a thousand  or  more 
feet,  and  thence  sail  out  again  horizontally  upon  the  air  with 
such  graceful  nonchalance  that  one  almost  envied  them  their 
apparen  t gratification . 

The  altitude  of  this  rugged  cliff  above  the  Valley  is  three 
thousand  -eight  hundred  and  eighteen  feet,  three  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  lower  than  the  Sentinel  Dome  on  the  other  side;  but, 
owing  to  the  great  vertical  depth  of  the  gulf  immediately  be- 
neath it,  as  well  as  the  comprehensive  panorama  from  and  around 
about  it,  not  only  is  the  entire  upper  end  of  the  Valley,  with 
its  wild  depths  and  canon  defiles,  visible  therefrom,  but  the  whole 
sweep  of  the  distant  Sierras,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 

I once  had  the  pleasure  of  conducting  the  Rev.  J.  P.  New- 
man, D.  D.,  and  Rev. Sunderland,  D.  D.  (each,  then,  of 

Washington,  D.  C.),  to  its  wondrous  summit;  when,  after  a long, 
and  evidently  constrained  silence,  the  former  suddenly  ejaculated, 
“ Glory!  Hal-le-lu-jah — Glory!  Hal-le-lu-jah ! ” (the  doctor  was  a 
Methodist,  you  know)  then,  turning  around,  the  tears  literally 
streaming  down  his  cheeks,  he  thus  expressed  himself:  “ Well,  Mr. 
H,  if  I had  crossed  the  continent  of  America  on  purpose  to 
look  upon  this  one  view,  I should  have  returned  home,  sir,  per- 
fectly satisfied.” 

Eleven  of  us  (six  ladies  and  five  gentlemen),  after  a most 
delightful  camping  sojourn  of  three  months  in  the  High  Sierra, 
concluded  that  to  revisit  this  spot  would  be  a befitting  finale  to 
our  summer’s  pilgrimage.  Accordingly  some  eight  additional 
days  were  spent  upon  the  grassy  meadows  below,  and  in  making 
daily  ascents  to  the  culminating  crest  of  Eagle  Peak.  It  is  a view 
that  seems  never  to  weary,  or  to  become  common-place.  Gather- 


480 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


ing  storm-clouds  admonishing  an  early  departure  we  gave  re- 
luctant consent;  to  find,  that,  within  twenty-four  hours  after 
breaking  up  camp,  three  feet  of  snow  had  covered  the  ground. 

LAKE  TEN-IE-YA. 

As  Eagle  Peak  Trail  is  the  one  necessarily  traveled  from  the 
great  Valley  to  Lake  Ten-ie-ya,  and  as  we  have  supposedly 
reached  the  top  of  the  mountain,  and  are  thus  far  on  our  way; 
let  us  continue  our  journey  up  or  down  forest-clothed  ravines, 
amid  and  over  low  ridges,  and  across  the  heads  of  green  meadows, 
with  here  and  there  an  occasional  glimpse  of  distant  mountain 
peaks,  until  we  reach  Porcupine  Flat ; thence  to  travel  upon  the 
Great  Sierra  Mining  Company’s  Turnpike  road  all  the  way  to 
the  beautiful  lake.  It  should  here  be  stated  that  by  this  thorough- 
fare travelers  can  now  drive  not  only  among  the  tops  of  the 
Sierras,  but  over  their  summit,  by  leaving  the  Big  Oak  Flat  road 
near  Crocker’s. 

Following  the  dancing  and  sparkling  waters  of  Snow  Creek, 
which  have  their  source  in  the  snow-banks  of  Mt.  Hoffman,  there 
can,  on  every  hand,  be  witnessed  the  unmistakable  evidences  of 
glacial  action,  in  the  moraines,  and  highly  polished  and  deeply 
striated  granite  that  can  everywhere  be  seen ; not  in  mere  patches 
only,  but  many  miles  in  extent.  On  every  peak,  mountain 
shoulder  and  bare  ledge,  where  disintegration  has  not  removed  the 
writing,  the  record  is  so  plain  that  “he  who  runs  may  read.” 
This  is  most  strikingly  manifest  from  the  Hoffman  ridge  down 
to  Lake  Ten-ie-ya.  The  entire  slope,  some  three  miles  long,  is 
glacier-polished,  and  before  the  road  was  built  the  utmost  care 
was  needed,  in  passing  down  the  trail,  to  prevent  horses  from 
falling.  The  glistening  surfaces  attract  almost  as  much  atten- 

O O 

tion,  for  the  time  being,  as  the  scenery. 

Refulgent,  however,  with  sheen,  the  bright  bosom  of 

BEAUTIFUL  LAKE  TEN-IE-YA 

Can  be  seen  glinting  between  the  trees,  and  erelong  we  are 
treading  upon  its  pine-bordered  shores.  Oh!  how  charming  the 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


481 


landscape.  Mountains  from  one  thousand  to  two  thousand  five 
hundred  feet  in  height  bound  it  on  the  east  and  on  the  south. 
At  the  head  of  the  lake  they  are  more  or  less  dome-shaped, 
glacier-rounded,  and  polished;  on  the  south,  Ten-ie-ya  Peak 
towers  boldly  up,  and  throws  distinctly  and  repeatedly  back  the 
echoes  of  our  voice.  But  for  persuasive  remonstrances  from  our 
organs  of  digestion,  we  could  almost  believe  that  we  were  in  Fairy 
Land.  These  humanizing  appeals,  however,  are  not  to  be  re- 
pressed, and,  as  a sequence,  we  find  ourselves  crossing  the  hospi- 
table threshold  of 

murphy’s  cabin. 

The  name  of  its  builder  and  proprietor  being  John  L. 
Murphy,  let  me  without  ceremony  introduce  him.  Mr.  Murphy 
is  one  of  the  old-time  residents,  and  was,  formerly,  one  of  the  most 
obliging  and  reliable  of  the  guides  of  Yo  Semite.  If  you  will 
read  H.  H.’s  “ Bits  of  Travel,”  you  will  find  a correctly  drawn 
and  full  length  pen-portrait  of  him.  Wiry  with  exercise,  grizzled 
by  exposure,  and  healthy  from  breathing  pure  mountain  air,  he 
is  a little  Hercules  in  strength  and  endurance.  Then  there  are 
but  few,  if  any,  more  kindly-hearted,  genial,  and  thoughtfully 
careful  of  your  comfort  than  he.  Be  sure  of  one  thing,  the  mo- 
ment you  feel  the  grip  of  his  manly  hand,  and  have  one  look 
into  his  honest  face,  you  will  feel  thoroughly  at  home  with  him ; 
in  entire  confidence,  therefore,  we  may  share  his  kindly  care. 

This  charming  mountain-locked  lake  is  about  one  and  three- 
quarter  miles  in  length  by  three-quarters  of  a mile  in  width; 
and  although  very  deep  on  its  southern  side  is  quite  shallow 
on  its  northern,  so  that  before  the  new  road  was  built,  the  course 
of  the  trail  eastward  was,  for  half  a mile,  directly  through  it,  to 
avoid  the  mountainous  defile  north  of  its  encompassing  bluffs. 

A “WHAT  IS  IT.” 

There  is  a most  curious  phenomenon  observable  here,  nearly 
every  still  morning  during  summer,  that  deservedly  attracts  at- 
tention. It  is  a peculiar  sound,  something  between  a whistle  and 


482 


7JV  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS . 


a hiss,  that  shoots  through  the  air  with  startling  velocity,  appar- 
ently about  a mile  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  Its  course  is 
generally  from  south  and  west  to  north  and  east;  although  it 
seemingly  travels,  at  times,  in  all  conceivable  directions,  and  with 
a velocity  much  greater  than  a screeching  shell  in  battle.  Now 
the  question  arises,  “What  is  the  cause  of  ail  this?”  Can  it  be 
from  the  rapid  passage  of  currents  of  electricity  through  the  air, 
or  the  rush  of  air  through  some  upper  stratum?  Will  some  one 
who  knows  kindly  answer  the  question,  “ What  is  it?  ” 

The  mountains  around  the  lake — Ten-ie-ya  Peak,  Ten-ie-ya 
Dome,  and  Murphy’s  Dome,  standing  out  most  prominently — 
are  very  irregular  in  their  form  and  cleavage,  but  yet  are  un- 
speakably picturesque.  This,  with  the  quaint  ruggedness  of  the 
Finns  contorta  trees  which  grow  upon  its  margin;  the  glacier 
polish  and  striae  upon  nearly  all  of  its  surrounding  granite;  the 
balmy  healthiness  of  its  summer  air  (as  meat  never  spoils,  on  the 
hottest  of  days),  its  altitude  above  sea  level  being  seven  thousand 
nine  hundred  and  seventy  feet,  the  purity  of  its  waters,  and  its 
central  position  for  climbing  every  grand  peak  around  it,  should 
make  Lake  Ten-ie-ya  one  of  the  most  delightful  summer  resorts 
in  the  world ; especially  when  its  waters  are  well  stocked  with 
fish,  and  the  sheep-herder  no  longer  pastures  his  sheep  near,  which 
drive  away  all  the  game  that  would  naturally  seek  these  great 
solitudes.  Attractive  as  this  wildly  romantic  spot  may  be,  we 
must  leave  it  and  its  genial  hermit,  for  a time  at  least,  to  visit, 
in  spirit,  some  of 

THE  GLORIOUS  SCENES  IN  THE  HIGH  SIERRA. 

From  Yo  Semite  to  the  summit  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  there  abounds  more 
grand  scenery  than  can  be  found  in  any  other  portion  of  the  State. 

— Prof.  W.  H;  Brewer. 

The  marvelous  scenic  and  natural  phenomena  of  the  High 
Sierra  was  as  a closed  volume  to  nearly  all  except  the  irrepressible 
prospector  and  vandalistic  sheep-herder,  until  its  wondrous  pages 
were  opened  to  the  public  by  the  California  State  Geological 
Survey,  under  Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney.  Although  nature  here  builds 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


483 


her  prodigious  reservoirs  of  snow,  storms  hold  unchecked  carni- 
val, and  the  chemistry  of  trituration  is  silently  manipulating  its 
manifold  forces,  and  eliminating  scenes  of  grandeur  that  charm 
both  eye  and  soul,  human  eyes  and  thoughts  could  not  before 
look  in  upon  her  astonishing  laboratory.  Now,  however,  the 
glorious  book  is  wide  open,  and  its  inviting  leaves  can  be  turned 
by  every  mind.  Being  a vast  and  interesting  volume  of  itself, 


I can  now  only  epitomize  and  outline  some  of  its  principal  at- 
tractions, that  are  as  wild  and  wonderful,  in  their  way  as  the 
Yo  Semite  itself,  while  being  utterly  unlike  it.  The  one  nearest, 
and  whose  bold  prominence  we  have  noticed  from  all  the  high 
points  more  immediately  around  the  Valley,  is 

MOUNT  HOFFMANN. 

The  summit  of  this  mountain  is  ten  thousand  eight  hundred 
and  seventy-two  feet  above  sea  level,  and  the  view  from  it  corn- 
man  dingly  fine.  Just  beneath  its  northern  wall  is  the  horseshoe- 


484 


IN  TIIE  HEART  OE  THE  SIERRAS. 


shaped  head  of  Yo  Semite  Creek,  with  its  numerous  little  glacier- 
scooped  lakelets;  and  which,  with  deep  snow  banks,  form  the 
main  source  of  Yo  Semite  Creek.  Here  that  stream  heads. 
About  one  hundred  feet  from  its  apex  is 

THE  UPPER  MARGIN  OF  THE  TIMBER  LINE, 

Where  stunted  pines,  Pinus  albicaulis,  form  the  only  and 
highest  occupant.  Owing  to  the  density  of  foliage  and  singular 
contour  of  these  trees,  caused  mainly  by  exposure  of  situation 
and  the  depth  of  winter  snows,  one  could,  with  care,  walk  on 
their  tops,  seldom  over  a dozen  feet  above  the  ground.  As  in- 
timated elsewhere,  the  upper  timber  line  of  the  Sierras  in  this 
latitude  never  exceeds  eleven  thousand  feet;  at  Fisherman’s  Peak 
(unfairly  called  Mt.  Whitney)  it  is  twelve  thousand  two  hundred 
and  twenty,  while  at  Mt.  Shasta,  it  is  only  eight  thousand  feet. 
Beyond  and  above  these  the  whole  chain  consists  of  bleak  and 
storm-beaten  peaks  and  crags;  yet,  though  forest  verdure  is 
denied  them,  beautiful  flowers  bloom  in  sheltered  hollows,  to  their 
very  summits.  How  thoughtlessly  do  we  sometimes  allude  to 
“ the  bleak  and  desolate  mountains,”  forgetting  that  in  these  are 
treasured  the  subtile  essences  needed  for  the  pabulum  of  plant, 
and  other  organic  life,  even  to  their  coloring  and  fragrance. 

Were  we  to  lingeringly  dwell  on  these,  or  upon  the  echoes 
thrown  from  peak  to  peak  upon  this  crest,  where  “ Every  mount- 
ain now  hath  found  a tongue,”  or  in  viewing  the  numberless  rocky 
pinnacles  and  placid  lakes  in  sight,  I fear  that  other  scenes  and 
charms  would  remain  unenjoyed;  therefore,  let  us  return  to  Lake 
Ten-ie-ya,  with  the  impression  that  another  glorious  and  soul- 
filling day  has  been  most  profitably  spent. 

Rafting  on  the  lake,  musing,  sketching,  day-dreaming,  nor 
even  pleasant  chats  with  the  kind  old  Hermit  of  Lake  Ten- 
ie-ya,  must  detain  us  from  taking  the  picturesque  road  along  the 
margin  of  this  captivating  sheet  of  water;  and,  threading  our  way 
by  the  side  of  bold  bluffs,  along  the  tree-arched  road,  and  across 
a low  ridge  into  the 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


485 


TUOLUMNE  MEADOWS. 

These  afford  such  striking  contrast  to  other  sights  witnessed 
that  they  somewhat  calm  the  excited  imagination  by  their  sylvan 
peacefulness,  and  by  gratified  change  prepare  us  for  the  sublime 
scenes  that  everywhere  stand  guard.  Of  course,  we  must  visit 

THE  SODA  SPRINGS. 

There  are  several  of  these  that  flow  bubblingly  up  in  close 
proximity  to  each  other,  and  offer  us  a deliciously  refreshing 
drink  of  aerated  soda  water.  Here,  too,  we  may  meet  a hermit- 
artist  named  Lembert,  who  annually  brings  his  Angora  goats  to 
feed  upon  the  succulent  pastures,  whilst  he  makes  sketches. 
Here  we  are  eight  thousand  five  hundred  and  fifty-eight  feet  above 
the  sea.  Leaving  these  we  pass  glacier-polished  bluffs,  cross  en- 
tire ridges  and  valley  stretches  of  moraine  talus,  and  in  about 
nine  spirit- delighting  miles,  reach  the  camping  ground  of  Mount 
Dana.  Knowing  that  blankets  and  other  creature  comforts  are 
essential  for  these  extended  trips,  such  things  have  naturally  been 
provided,  preparatory  to  spending  a pleasant  night  here  before 
attempting 

THE  ASCENT  OF  MOUNT  DANA. 

Our  course  to  the  summit  of  this  lofty  standpoint,  after 
leaving  camp,  is  on  the  back  of  an  old  moraine  for  some  three 
miles,  where  Dana  Canon  is  entered.  Here  we  leave  the  last  tree 
behind  and  below  us,  and  thenceforward  find  nothing  but  stunted 
willow  bushes,  which  also  are  soon  left  behind,  and  at  an  elevation 
of  eleven  thousand  seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  we  are  on  the 
saddle,  or  connecting  neck,  between  Mt.  Gibbs  and  Mt.  Dana. 
J ust  over  the  ridge  is  a large  bowlder  which,  when  a rope  is  tied 
around  it,  makes  a safe  and  sheltered  point  for  tethering  horses. 
The  ascent  thence  is  on  foot,  over  fragmentary  chips  and  blocks 
of  metamorphic  slate,  of  which  this  entire  mountain  is  composed, 
in  an  endless  variety  of  colors  and  shades.  Once  upon  its  glorious 
apex,  we  are  thirteen  thousand  two  hundred  and  twenty-seven 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 


486 


IiV  THE  HEART  OE  THE  SIERRAS. 


VIEW  FROM  THE  SUMMIT  OF  MOUNT  DANA. 

The  most  expressive  of  language  must  utterly  fail  to  describe 
this  scene.  The  vast  amphitheater  of  mountains,  canons,  and 
lakes  extending  in  every  direction  to  the  horizon  is  unutterably 
sublime  and  bewildering.  North  of  east,  down  in  a gulf  of  six 
thousand  seven  hundred  and  seventy-three  feet,  restfully  sleeps 
Lake  Mono,  which,  although  eighteen  by  twenty-three  miles 
across,  is  dwarfed  into  comparative  insignificance;  beyond  this 
lie  the  vast  deserts  and  green  oases  of  the  State  of  Nevada,  with 
their  inexhaustible  mineral  wealth.  Trending  northward,  the  ir- 
regular mountain-formed  vertebrae  of  the  great  backbone  of  the 
Sierras,  with  Mts.  Warren,  Conness,  and  Castle  Peak  stand  up 
above  yet  among  thousands  of  lesser  ones;  while  southward,  in 
stately  prominence,  soar  Mts.  Lyell,  Ritter,  and  numberless  others. 
Westward  the  penumbra  of  light  and  shade  defines  every  lofty 
crag  and  peak  that  surrounds  the  wonderful  Valley,  with  every 
bristling  intermediate  spire,  and  cone,  and  dome. 

EVIDENCES  OF  ANCIENT  GLACIERS  UPON  MT.  DANA. 

Along  the  western  and  southern  slopes  of  Mt.  Dana  [says  Prof.  J. 
D.  Whitney*]  the  traces  of  ancient  glaciers  are  very  distinct,  up  to  a 
height  of  12,000  feet.  In  the  gajD  directly  south  of  the  summit  a mass  of 
ice  must  once  have  existed,  having  a thickness  of  at  least  800  feet  at  as 
high  an  elevation  as  10,500  feet.  From  all  the  gaps  and  valleys  of  the 
west  side  of  the  range,  tributary  glaciers  came  down,  and  all  united  in 
one  grand  mass  lower  in  the  valley,  where  the  medial  moraines  which  ac- 
cumulated between  them  are  perfectly  distinguishable,  and  in  places  as 
regularly  formed  as  any  to  be  seen  in  the  Alps  at  the  present  day. 

It  is,  therefore,  reasonably  presumable  that  glaciers  once 
covered  the  apex  of  Mt.  Dana  also,  then  probably  much  higher, 
to  a depth  “ of  at  least  eight  hundred  feet,”  which  would  give 
an  aggregate  approximate  depth  or  thickness  of  glacial  ice  in 
Yo  Semite  Valley  of  nearly  two  miles! 


Yosemite  Guide  Book,  page  103. 


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Photo- typo  by  Britton  * Rey, 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


487 


THE  LIVING  GLACIERS  OF  MT.  DANA. 

In  the  deep  vertical  chasm  under  the  northern  wall  of  Mt. 
Dana  and  near  its  crest,  there  is  a vast  deposit  of  ice  that  remains 
unmelted  through  all  seasons  of  the  year.  Unlike  that  on  Mt. 
Lvell,  however,  it  is  completely  locked  in  by  encompassing  mount- 
ain that  precludes  the  possibility  of  motion,  except  normally,  as 
the  ice  melts.  This  forms  one  of  the  main  sources  of  the  Tuol- 
umne River.  On  the  very  summit  of  this  bleak  landmark  grow 
bunches  of  bright  purple  flowers,  the  Jacob’s  Ladder  of  the  High 
Sierra,  Polemonium  confertum. 

Leaving  these  enrapturing  scenes  and  mysteries,  let  us  wend 
our  delighting  way,  over  old  moraings,  and  past  the  glacier- 
polished  floor  of  the  Lyell  branch  of  the  Tuolumne  meadows,  to 
their  head,  where  there  is  an  excellent  camping  ground,  whence 
the  hoary  head  of  Mt.  Lyell  itself  looms  grandly  up,  six  miles 
away.  Here  we  are  at  an  altitude  of  eight  thousand  nine  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet.  Forest  fires  set  by  sheep-herders  having  de- 
nuded much  of  the  lower  portion  of  the  ascent  of  its  timber,  we 
must  not  expect  the  refreshing  shade  formerly  enjoyed  from  it. 
At  this  altitude,  however,  the  heat  is  in  no  way  oppressive,  al- 
though we  have  on  foot  to  make 

THE  ASCENT  OF  MT.  LYELL. 

Believe  me,  this  is  a glorious  climb.  The  invigorating  air 
seems  to  permeate  every  fiber  and  nerve,  and  to  penetrate  almost 
to  the  marrow  of  one’s  bones.  Flowers,  flowering  shrubs,  and 
ferns,  with  occasional  groups  of  trees,  continue  with  us  to  the 
limit  of  the  timber  line,  and  the  former  to  the  very  summit,  which 
is  thirteen  thousand  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  above  sea  level. 

THE  LIVING  GLACIER  OF  MT.  LYELL. 

About  fifteen  hundred  feet  below  its  culminating  crest  we 
reach  the  foot  of  the  glacier,  portions  of  which  having  broken  off* 
and  fallen  into  a small  deep  lakelet,  distinctly  reveal  the  ethereal 
blue  of  the  icy  deposit.  This  fine  glacier  is  about  two  miles  in 
32 


488 


IN'  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


length,  having  a direction  southeasterly  by  northwesterly,  by 
half  a mile  in  width,  with  an  estimated  depth,  or  thickness,  of 
from  three  hundred  to  five  hundred  feet.  Deep  down  in  the  un- 
seen profound  of  its  blue  crevasses,  water  can  be  heard  singing 
and  gurgling,  from  which  emanate  the  streams  that  form  the 
source  of  the  main,  or  Lyell  branch,  of  the  Tuolumne  River.  By 
several  experiments,  such  as  the  setting  of  stakes  in  line  with  the 
general  trend  of  the  glacier,  it  has  been  ascertained  to  move  at 
the  rate  of  from  seven-eighths  to  one  inch  per  day.  A large  por- 
tion of  its  surface  is  corrugated  by  a succession  of  ridges  and 
furrows,  from  about  twenty  inches  to  two  feet  apart,  and  the 
same  in  depth ; having  a resemblance  to  a chopping  sea  whose 
waves  had  been  suddenly  frozen 

The  upper  edge  of  this  living  glacier  is  about  one  hundred 
and  seventy  feet  below  the  rocky  apex  of  Mt.  Lyell,  “ which  was 
found  to  be  a sharp  and  inaccessible  pinnacle  of  granite  rising 
above  a field  of  snow.”*  Members  of  the  State  Geological  Sur- 
vey Corps  having  considered  it  impossible  to  reach  the  summit 
of  this  lofty  peak,  the  writer  was  astonished  to  learn  from  Mr. 
A.  T.  Tileston,  of  Boston,  after  his  return  to  the  Valley  from  a 
jaunt  of  health  and  pleasure  in  the  High  Sierra,  that  he  had 
personally  proven  it  to  be  possible  by  making  the  ascent.  In- 
credible as  it  seemed  at  the  time,  three  of  us  found  Mr.  Tile- 
ston’s  card  upon  it  some  ten  days  afterwards. 

MT.  LYELL  THE  MAIN  SOURCE  OF  TWO  RIVERS. 

• 

On  the  southern  side  of  Mt.  Lyell  there  is  an  almost  vertical 
wall  of  granite  some  twelve  hundred  feet  high,  rising  from  a 
rock-rimmed  basin,  whose  sheltered  sides  hoard  vast  banks  of 
snow,  which,  melting,  form  the  main  water  supply  of  the  Mer- 
ced River,  flowing  through  the  Yo  Semite  Valley.  Thus  Mt. 
Lyell  becomes  the  source  of  two  valuable  streams,  the  Merced  on 
the  south,  and  the  Tuolumne  on  the  north  and  east. 

Of  course  the  view  from  this  magnificent  standpoint  is  ex- 


Yosemite  Guide  Book,  page  104. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


489 


ceptionally  imposing.  Not  only  are  there  lofty  and  isolated  single 
peaks  without  number,  but  distinct  groups  of  mountains,  that 
form  the  sources  of  as  many  streams,  or  their  tributaries;  with 
broad  lakes  and  deep  canons  on  every  hand,  extending  as  far  as 
human  vision  can  penetrate,  but  of  which  Mt.  Lyell  seems  to  be 
the  center.  Leveling  across  to  Mt.  Ritter  (apparently  only  a 
stone’s  throw  from  us,  although  some  five  miles  distant),  we  judged 
its  altitude  to  exceed  that  of  Mt.  Lyell  by  about  one  hundred 
and  thirty  feet.  The  glaciers  of  Mt.  Ritter,  and  the  Minarets, 
originate  and  supply  the  waters  of  the  main  north  fork  of 
the  San  Joaquin  River.  While  seated  among  the  blocks  of  rock 
that  lie  on  the  edge  of  this  glorious  crag,  a little  “ chipmunk  ” 
ran  out  from  a crevice  and  began  to  chatter  at  us;  but  we  as- 
sured him  that  we  were  in  no  way  envious  of  his  exalted  choice, 
nor  anxious  to  disturb  his  prior  possessory  right  or  preemption 
claim. 

Loose  masses  of  rock,  having  become  detached  from  its  crest, 
have  toppled  down  upon  the  glacier;  which,  in  its  almost  im- 
perceptible declivity,  has  silently  borne  them  to  the  edge  of  the 
glacier  basin,  and  there  dropped  them.  These  form  an  irregular 
wall  some  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  among  which  the  new- 
born stream  creeps  gurglingly,  and  thence  issues  forth.  These 
visible  glacial  “ dumps,”  as  miner’s  would  call  them,  are  suggestive 
of  the  way  that  many  moraines  are  first  formed. 

Treeless  slopes,  pools,  piles  of  disintegrated  rock,  broadening 
streams,  and  water- worn  crevices,  with  abundant  plant  life,  con- 
tinue with  us  from  the  summit  of  Mt.  Lyell  down  to  the  tim- 
ber line  (here  some  two  thousand  four  hundred  feet  below),  where 
the  Finns  albicaulis  becomes  the  only  forest  tenant  for  some  dis- 
tance ; soon,  however,  to  be  left  behind  for  the  companionship  of 
the  Pinus  contorta,  P.  Jeffreyii , Abies  Pattoniana , and  other 
trees,  until  we  arrive  at  picturesque  “ Camp  Mt.  Lyell;”  thence 
through  God’s  most  glorious  picture  gallery  back  via  Cathedral 
Spires  and  Cathedral  Lake,  Echo  Peak  and  Echo  Lake,  Temple 
Peak,  Monastery  Peak,  Moraine  Valley,  Sunrise  Ridge,  Nevada 
and  Vernal  Falls,  to  Yo  Semite. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

THE  SEASONS  AT  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 

The  spring,  the  summer, 

The  chilling  autumn,  angry  winter,  change 
Their  wonted  liveries. 

Shakespear’s  Midsummer  Night's  Dream,  Act  II. 

Everything  lives,  flourishes,  and  decays;  everything  dies,  but  nothing  is  lost. 

* Good’s  Book  of  Nature. 

Perhaps  it  may  turn  out  a song, — 

Perhaps  turn  out  a sermon. 

Burns’  Epistle  to  a Young  Friend. 

Frequently  and  earnestly  has  the  question  been  asked, 
WHICH  IS  THE  BEST  TIME  TO  GO  TO  YO  SEMITE? 

To  which  I would  make  answer — not  flippantly,  or  inconsid- 
erately— That  which  best  suits  your  own  personal  convenience. 
The  rest  should  be  determined  by  individual  taste  and  preference. 
When  a warm,  early  spring  first  lifts  the  flood-gates  of  the  snow- 
built  reservoirs  above,  the  water  flows  abundantly  over  the  falls ; 
but  the  deciduous  trees  are  leafless,  and  the  earth,  unkissed  by 
renewing  sunshine  for  so  many  months,  has  put  forth  no  grasses 
or  flowers.  Later,  when  the  trees  are  budding  and  the  blossoms 
are  just  peeping,  there  is  a suggestive  softness  in  the  new  birth 
developing.  Later  still  the  fragrant  blossoms  fill  the  air  with  red- 
olence, and  the  birds  with  morning  and  evening  songs.  Still 
later,  luscious  fruits  contribute  their  inviting  treasures  to  the 
generous  feast ; while  the  deep  rich  music  of  the  leaping  water- 
falls rolls  out  its  constant  psean  of  joy.  And,  still  later,  possibly 
there  is  less  of  the  aqueous  element,  but  ethereal  haze  drapes  every 
crag  and  dome,  and  fills  every  crevice  and  canon,  so  that  each 
mountain  crest  apparently  penetrates  farther  and  higher  into  the 
(490) 


THE  TO  SEMITE  VALLEY 


491 


deep  blue  of  the  vast  firmament  above.  This  of  all  others  would 
seem  to  be  the  most  befitting  time  for  day-dreaming,  reading, 
and  renewing  rest  for  both  body  and  mind ; and  is,  moreover,  the 
one  par  excellence  for  the  indulgencies  of  an  angler’s  heaven. 

But,  still  later,  comes  “Jack  Frost,”  with  his  inimitable 
color  brush,  and  tips  all  deciduous  leaves  with  brightness;  and  so 
dyes  and  transforms  the  landscape  that  one  impressively  and 
conscientiously  feels  that  this,  above  all  others,  is  the  best  season 
to  visit  Yo  Semite.  Then,  as  though  all  nature  was  in  fullest 
sympathy  with  such  transcendent  loveliness,  every  stretch  of 
still  water,  in  lake  or  river,  doubles  every  wondrous  charm  by  re- 
flecting it  upon  its  bosom,  so  that  every  bush  or  tree  that  may 
be  struggling  for  life  in  the  narrow  crevices  of  the  mountain 
walls  around,  are  all  most  faithfully  mirrored. 

Then,  the  glorious  fact  should  not  be  overlooked,  that  the 
marvelous  mountain  walls,  and  spires,  and  domes,  are  always 
there;  and,  being  there,  are,  in  themselves,  an  all-sufficient  rec- 
ompense without  any  supplementary  accessories  whatsoever.  It 
will,  therefore,  and  at  once  be  «een  that  my  statement  is  both 
correct  and  conclusive,  that  the  best  time  to  visit  Yo  Semite  is 
“ that  which  bests  suits  your  convenience  ” all  others  being  merely 
a matter  of  taste. 

There  is,  however,  one  season,  apart  from  all  others,  when  it 
is  next  to  impossible,  for  the  average  traveler,  at  the  present,  to 
visit  Yo  Semite,  and  that  is  in  the  depth  of  winter.  Therefore, 
as  this  cannot  be  conveniently  witnessed,  and  as  the  writer,  with 
his  family,  spent  many  there,  as  narrated  on  pages  141,  142,  he 
feels  that  this  work  would  be  incomplete  without  a brief  out- 
line of 

THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY  IN  WINTER. 

As  intimated  on  pages  347,  348,  snow  begins  to  fall  early  in 
November,  but  this  soon  disappears  before  the  delightfully  balmy 
Indian  summer  which  succeeds,  and  which  continues  wfith  but 
little  intermission,  both  days  and  nights  gradually  growing 
colder,  until  late  in  December,  when  a light  fleecy  film  commences 


492 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


to  drift  across  the  chasm  from  the  south— the  usual  quarter  for 
rain  in  California — which  soon  begins  to  intensify  and  deepen; 
then,  large  dark  masses  of  cloud  begin  to  gather  beneath  the  lighter 
strata,  with  occasional  stretches  of  sunlight  sandwiched  in  be- 
tween the  different  layers.  At  intervals  those  dark  masses  of 
cloud  break  into  fragmentary  patches,  when  a lambent  sheen 
illumines  all  their  edges  with  a golden  glow ; then  the  wind  in  fit- 
ful gusts  commences  to  toss  them  into  different  shapes,  seemingly 
in  playful  preparation  for  marshaling  all  these  aerial  forces  into 
line,  before  making  the  final  swoop  upon  the  sleeping  Valley. 
Nearly  every  rain  or  snow-storm  in  the  Sierras  is  heralded  in  by 
a strong,  squally  wind;  and  the  same  phenomena  is  generally  ob- 
servable when  marching  it  out.  Soon  thereafter  broad  belts  of 
cloud  come  sweeping  down  among  the  mountain  peaks,  “Like  a 
wolf  on  the  fold,”  draping  every  crag,  and  dome,  and  wall  with 
its  vapory  mantle,  probably  just  as  night  closes  in;  then  how 
steadily  does  the  rain  or  snow  fall  down ! 

THE  GREAT  FLOOD  OF  1867. 

On  December  23,  1867,  after  a snow  fall  of  about  three  feet, 
a heavy  down-pour  of  rain  set  in,  and  incessantly  continued  for 
ten  successive  days ; when  every  little  hollow  had  its  own  particu- 
lar water-fall,  or  cascade,  throughout  the  entire  circumference  of 
the  Valley;  each  rivulet  became  a foaming  torrent,  and  every 
stream  a thundering  cataract.  The  whole  meadow  land  of  the 
Valley  was  covered  by  a surging  and  impetuous  flood  to  an  aver- 
age depth  of  nine  feet.  Bridges  were  swept  away,  and  every- 
thing floatable  was  carried  off.  And,  supposing  that  the  usual 
spring  flow  of  water  over  the  Yo  Semite  Fall  would  be  about  six 
thousand  gallons  per  second,  as  stated  by  Mr.  H.  T.  Mills,*  at  this 
particular  time  it  must  have  been  at  least  twelve  or  fourteen  times 
that  amount,  giving  some  eighty  thousand  gallons  per  second. 
Large  trees,  that  were  four  to  six  feet  in  diameter,  would  shoot, 
endwise,  over  the  lip  of  the  upper  Yo  Semite;  and,  after  making 


*See  page  376. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


493 


a surging  swirl  or  two  downwards,  strike  the  unyielding  granite 
and  be  shivered  into  fragments.  At  this  time  our  family,  con- 
sisting of  two  of  the  gentler  sex,  two  young  children,  myself,  and 
one  man-servant,  were  the  only  residents  of  the  Yalley.  The  lat- 
ter named,  was  dreadfully  exercised  over  it,  as  he  feared  that  the 
last  day  had  come,  and  the  world  was  about  to  be  destroyed  the 
second  time  by  a flood ! Immense  quantities  of  talus  were  washed 
down  upon  the  Yalley  during  this  storm, — more  than  at  anytime 
for  scores,  if  not  hundreds,  of  years,  judging  from  the  low  talus 
ridges,  and  the  timber  growth  upon  them.  After  this  rain-storm 
had  ceased,  a wind  sprung  up,  and  blew  down  over  one  hundred 
trees.  In  one  spot  of  less  than  seven  acres  twenty-three  large 
pines  and  cedars  were  piled,  crosswise,  upon  each  other. 

Alas!  at  such  a time,  how  fortunate  the  man  or  woman 
who  has  a cozy  cabin,  with  an  open  fire-place ; plenty  of  fire-wood, 
an  abundance  of  provisions,  books,  agreeable  companionship,  and 
pleasant  occupation.  The  beating  of  the  storm  upon  the  window 
panes,  its  heavy  rain-drops  on  the  roof,  or  the  silent  footfall  of 
the  fast  deepening  snow,  with  such  surroundings,  have  no  ap- 
palling terrors  for  him.  But — to  the  benighted  traveler,  far  from 
home  and  shelter,  what?  “ God  help  him ! ” will  be  the  spontane- 
ous ejaculation  of  every  earnest  and  feelingly  humane  heart. 

Morning  dawns,  and  the  feathery  crystals  are  still  falling 
rapidly;  the  day  rolls  slowly  on,  and  night  again  drops  down  her 
curtain,  yet  still  it  snows.  Day  follows  day,  and  night  succeeds 
night,  for  many  days  and  nights,  perhaps,  without  the  least  ces- 
sation of  the  storm.  I have  known  eleven  feet  of  snow  to  fall 
without  the  shortest  intermission.  But,  finally  it  comes;  and, 
while  hostilities  are  suspended,  let  us  take  one  lingering  look  upon 
our  fairy-like  surroundings  on  the  outside.  Believe  me,  the  scene 
without  seems  like 

A WORK  OF  ENCHANTMENT. 

And  we  intuitively  ask,  “ Is  this,  verily,  the  same  spot  of  earth 
upon  which  we  looked  previous  to  the  advent  of  the  storm?  ” Alas ! 


494 


IJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


THE  NORWEGIAN  SNOW-SHOE  USED  AT  YO  SEMITE  IN  WINTER. 


how  changed.  Every  twig  is  bent  down,  every  branch  laden,  and 
every  tree  covered  with  the  silvery  garment. 

Along  every  bough  most  delicately  reposes  a semi-translucent 
frosting  of  snow,  with  diamond  settings  between  the  forks  of 
each  and  every  twig  or  branch,  which,  when  the  sun  shines  upon 
them,  or  rather  through  them,  lights  them  up  with  a frosted  glory 
that  seems  more  like  the  creations  of  some  wonderful  Magi,  by 
ages  of  labor,  than  of  crystallized  water  within  a night  or  two. 
Then,  to  look  upon  and  up  the  mountain  walls  that  surround  the 
marvelous  Valley,  and  see  every  bench,  and  shelf,  or  jutting  rock; 
every  lofty  peak,  or  noble  dome ; and  every  sheltering  hollow  filled 
with  snow.  Can  artist  or  poet,  painter  or  writer,  do  justice  to 
such  a scene?  Alas!  no. 

Speechless  with  admiration,  even  while  we  are  gazing  upon 


Photo,  by  Geo.  Fiske.  Engraved  by  J.  M,  Hay,  S F. 


ICE  CONE  OF  550  FEET,  BENEATH  THE  UPPER;  YO  SEMITE  FALL. 


THE  YO  SEMITE  VALLEY. 


495 


it,  a new  revelation  dawns  upon  us,  for  everywhere  around  we 
hear  rushing,  rattling,  hissing,  booming  avalanches  come  shooting 
from  the  mountain-tops,  adown  precipitous  hollows,  and  creat- 
ing fresh  sources  of  attraction;  with  new  combinations  of  im- 
pressions, that  must  be  alike  diverting  and  satisfying  to  both 
artistic  and  poetic  feeling.  Then,  before  these  sounds  can  have 
been  repeated  in  echoes,  and  hurled  from  wall  to  wall,  or  from 
crag  to  peak,  another  avalanche  makes  the  leap;  and,  like  its 
predecessor,  indicates  the  birth  of  a new  water -fall,  in  some 
strange  and  unheard-of  place. 

THE  YO  SEMITE  FALL  IN  WINTEK. 

On  every  frosty  night  immense  masses  of  ice  fringe  both 
sides  of  every  water-fall  at  Yo  Semite;  the  upper  Yo  Semite 
most  noticeably  so.  Icicles  over  a hundred  and  thirty  feet  in 
length,  and  from  fifteen  to  twenty -five  feet  in  diameter,  are  often 
seen ; and  which,  when  illuminated  by  morning  sunlight,  scintillate 
forth  all  the  prismatic  colors.  These,  however,  resplendently 
brilliant  and  beautiful  as  they  appear,  have  but  a brief  existence, 
inasmuch  as  the  same  sunlight  that  creates  such  gorgeous  hues, 
melts  away  their  frozen  shackles,  and  drops  them  down,  thunder- 
ingly,  many  tons  in  a minute;  and  before  the  echoes  of  one  re- 
verberating peal  have  died  away  others  keep  following  in  rapid 
succession,  until  every  fragment  of  ice  has  peeled  off  and  fallen. 

This  being  repeated  nearly  every  bright  winter’s  morning, 
causes  vast  quantities  of  ice  to  accumulate  at  the  base  of  the  fall ; 
to  which  constant  additions  are  made  of  infinitesimal  atoms  of 
spray,  that  percolate  filteringly  among  the  broken  icicles,  and 
which,  by  freezing,  cement  them  all  so  compactly  together  that  an 
enormous  cone  of  solid  ice  is  built  immediately  beneath  it,  to 
which  every  snow-storm  supplements  its  due  proportion.  The  nett 
results  of  this  hibernal  aggregation  being  to  fill  the  entire  basin 
at  the  base  of  the  fall,  some  ten  acres  in  extent,  with  consolidated 
ice ; and  which  varies  in  depth  or  thickness  from  three  hundred  to 
five  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  according  to  the  season.  In  1882, 


TJST  THE  HEART  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 


496 

when  the  photograph  was  taken  from  which  the  accompanying 
engraving  was  made,  it  was  at  the  maximum  stated. 

When  the  spring  thaw  in  the  mountains  commences  in  real 
earnest,  a vast  sheet  of  water  shoots  over  the  top  of  the  fall  wall, 
down  upon  this  cone  of  ice,  in  which  it  soon  excavates  a basin ; 
and  when  this  is  cut  out  to  a depth  of  from  twenty  to  fifty  feet, 
the  entire  fall  leaps  into  it,  and  at  once  rebounds  in  billowy, 
volumes  of  cloud  over  a thousand  feet;  and,  when  the  sunlight 
strikes  this  seething,  eddying  mass  of  comminuted  spray  thus  ris- 
ing, it  lights  it  up  with  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow  and  presents 
one  of  the  most  gorgeous  spectacles  ever  seen  by  human  eyes. 

The  constantly  recurring  scenic  revelations  at  Yo  Semite 
lead  us,  in  worshipful  admiration  as  we  say  farewell,  to  breathe 
the  beautiful  words  of  Moore: — 

“ The  earth  shall  be  my  fragrant  shrine! 

My  temple,  Lord!  that  arch  of  thine; 

My  censer’s  breath,  the  mountain  airs; 

And  silent  thoughts,  my  only  prayers.  ” 


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